Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: Diesel Zenith (2thesky)
2. 04:17 AM - Re: Re: Diesel Zenith (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
3. 06:25 AM - Re: Test Pilot (Bima, Martin)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Re: Diesel Zenith (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
5. 08:59 AM - Stratus problems (Brandon Tucker)
6. 10:02 AM - wing attachment /cables (john butterfield)
7. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: Diesel Zenith ()
8. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: Test Pilot (Darrell Haas)
9. 10:39 AM - Re: Oil in air cooled engines (billmileski)
10. 10:41 AM - Re: Stratus problems (LarryMcFarland)
11. 10:50 AM - Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update (PatrickW)
12. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Diesel Zenith (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
13. 11:33 AM - Re: Stratus problems (Brandon Tucker)
14. 11:37 AM - Re: Stratus problems (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
15. 12:04 PM - Re: wing attachment /cables (japhillipsga@aol.com)
16. 12:32 PM - Re: wing attachment /cables ()
17. 01:14 PM - Re: wing attachment /cables (Paul Mulwitz)
18. 01:42 PM - 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (Jason)
19. 01:56 PM - Paint (Joe)
20. 01:56 PM - Paint (Joe)
21. 01:58 PM - 601HD for sale (official) (Trevor Page)
22. 02:22 PM - Re: 1st Hundred Hours of Building (XL) (Rich)
23. 02:28 PM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (Paul Mulwitz)
24. 02:41 PM - Re: Trevor & 601 for sale (Zed Smith)
25. 02:49 PM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (Craig Payne)
26. 03:08 PM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (John Bolding)
27. 03:20 PM - Re: Paint (n801bh@netzero.com)
28. 03:36 PM - Prospective 701 flyer - Performance questions (StolBrit)
29. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon (Bill Naumuk)
30. 04:01 PM - Re: Strobes (Bill Naumuk)
31. 04:08 PM - Re: Re: Strobes (Bill Naumuk)
32. 04:30 PM - Re: Re: Test Pilot (Bryan Martin)
33. 04:57 PM - Re: Strobes (Bryan Martin)
34. 05:18 PM - Re: Strobes (Juan Vega)
35. 05:46 PM - Re: Stratus problems (Tim Shankland)
36. 05:58 PM - "Half Deep" Rivets...? (PatrickW)
37. 06:11 PM - Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? (Tim Juhl)
38. 06:16 PM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (Brandon Tucker)
39. 06:46 PM - Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? (PatrickW)
40. 07:07 PM - Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? (Josh Wilson)
41. 09:35 PM - 701 long wing (Dave and Pam Fisher)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
Float Flyr wrote:
> One down side could be that diesels are notoriously hard to start in cold weather.
They do need good size starters and probably heavy batteries.
Only diesel engines that aren't properly cared for, have fuel pressure problems,
or are worn out are hard to start. I currently own five diesel engines and
have owned many more in the past. Every time I have had a hard to start engine,
I have been able to find and fix a problem that corrected the problem of being
hard to start. You can just crank on it loger, use bigger and more batteries
to suck fuel up to the injectors, and that will work and is, in fact, what
most folks do, but I have always been able to fix mine so that they start easily
through keeping the fuel system in top shape. I own one diesel in a Ford
F-250 pickup. I also own two tractor trailers with big 550 hp engines and smaller
diesel powered aux. power units on them, too. None of these are hard to
start in the cold because they are all equipped with block heaters that keep the
coolant warm. When it gets REALLY cold, I also use a heated dipstick that
tends to keep the engine oil close to 85 degrees. All of my trucks start just
fine in really cold weather. It has been hovering around 0 degrees here for
a couple of weeks and all of my trucks started everyday with no problems, usually
after just a couple of turns of the engine. One of my trucks sat outside
in North Dakota for three days last week. It started on the third turn. In fact,
I drive my diesel pickup more in the cold weather because the oil and coolant
is warm all the time, and my car has to start cold. The diesel engines run
smooth from the start and my car and farm tractor complain to me for the first
few seconds. It is my opinion that because of the block and oil heating devices,
my diesels suffer less wear than my gas engines from cold weather starts.
It is simply a matter of plugging it in to a 110 volt electrical outlet at
night, or just a couple of hours or so before starting (depending on the temp).
I prefer to leave them plugged in all the time when not in use. For an airplane,
I think I would leave the block heater off and just use the heated dipstick
so!
not to
add any extra flying weight. To me, that sounds easier than the propane powered
pre-heater that I use on the PA-28 I rent now. Just show up at the hangar,
unplug and remove the heated dipstick, and replace the normal dipstick. You are
ready to rock and roll.
As for the starters and batteries, both of my semi's are equipped with auxiliary
power units so that we don't need to idle the big engine for overnight stays
and still run the heat/AC, provide electricity in the sleeper for lights, refrigerator,
microwave, engine block heaters, battery charging for the big engine,
etc. These units use lighter twin cylinder diesel engines, made by Kubota,
and require only a single battery that is lighter than the one in my little V-6
powered car. It will spin and start the little Kubotas very easily. The starters
are pretty much the same as a lawn mower. I doubt that for these lighter
aircraft diesels, any huge heavy battery or starter would be needed. We
do use huge starters on truck diesels, but I think that it is because manufacturers
realize that most will allow small air leaks in the fuel system exist.
I think these diesels could be great for airplanes if they can just keep the installed
weight down. I hope by the time I am finally ready to start building,
I will have a choice of engines that can run on diesel or Jet-A. I like it
more than gas because of the volatility of gasoline. Also, my auto and truck
diesels last a whole heck of a lot longer than my gas engine cars. One of my
truck engines has 1.2 million miles on it. I usually run trucks to 1.5 million
before trading them in or rebuilding them with meticulous maintenance, of course.
I am sure most aircraft owners, particularly folks who built them are
very good about maintenance. I hope that longevity will be the same in aircraft
diesels. Just my opinions.
--------
Every takeoff is optional, but every landing is mandatory!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-976#95976
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
Good Morning !
Great post - thank you. I would just like to add one more comment -
preheaters and block heaters are not the only answer, we have technology !!
The early production Dodge-Cummins diesel uses a screen-type heater to warm
the incoming air to aid in starting. I have no experience with it but I do
remember it was equipped with TWO huge batteries. This engine appeared to me
to be more old-truck-technology than new, but it has evolved over the years
as well. The breakthrough high-rpm small diesel was from Volkswagen.
The Volkswagen TDI (Turbo-Direct Injection) engine has been around since the
early '90's. This small 98hp engine did not even have a block coolant
heater or an oil dipstick heater available as an option in the United States -
instead, it was engineered to start in very cold weather just using glow plugs.
In this design, the fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber, as
opposed to a prechamber which was the most common design up to that point.
This greatly improved efficiency...some say direct injection increased the
infamous 'diesel knock' you hear especially at idle, but a two-stage injection
pulse helped quiet things down. Today's modern common-rail diesel designs
pulse the fuel MANY,MANY times into the combustion chamber at injection
pressures well above 28,000 psi! The smaller the fuel droplet, the more efficient
the burn and the engine is quieter as well. The new TDI's, as well as the
Mercedes CDI are common rail, and I believe I read the Vulcan will be
common-rail as well. (OK, some TDI's are pumpe-duse - a technology VW pioneered
which
combine the injection pump and the injector into one unit, but that discussion
need not belong here).
Common-rail minuses? For aviation, this places us in electronic fuel
injection territory that is percieved to be complex and with no simple mechanical
backups. Both the SMA engine and the DAIR-100 use mechanical injection for
simplicity. Indeed, the Bosch mechanical injection fuel pumps are marvles of
mechanical engineering....and I certainly would NOT call them 'simple'....but
they sure are durable !!
I truely believe the aviation diesel is the way to go. The biggest problem
will NOT be owner-operator acceptance, no, the greatest opposition will be
the old-school A&P's and the ability to get someone who is receptive to
something NEW to work on it. I see the problem all the time with my TDI which
is
why any VW diesel enthusiast who really wants to know his powerplant looks at
_www.tdiclub.com_ (http://www.tdiclub.com) for brilliant answers to everyday
questions the dealer cannot answer!
I'm not bashing A&P's...please....but when the aviation diesel starts to
sell the marketplace will demand skills the established labor pool cannot (yet)
provide. This is where WE, the homebuilders, will have an advantage. WE
talk technology. WE will be able to BUILD our support networks and fix
problems. Look at the aviation diesels currently available or proposed. All
that I
have seen are talking TBR, not TBO. TBR is Time Before Replacement..they see
these engines as being incredibly rugged, but the skills to rebuild them as
lacking in the marketplace. I can't say I blame them, as diesels are
designed and built to different tolerances (remember the General Motors/Oldsmobile
V-8 diesel disaster?).
Sorry for the long post...
Tracy Smith
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 2/19/2007 3:17:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
biggerspurs@HOTMAIL.COM writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "2thesky" <biggerspurs@hotmail.com>
Float Flyr wrote:
> One down side could be that diesels are notoriously hard to start in
cold weather. They do need good size starters and probably heavy batteries.
Only diesel engines that aren't properly cared for, have fuel pressure
problems, or are worn out are hard to start. I currently own five diesel engines
and have owned many more in the past. Every time I have had a hard to start
engine, I have been able to find and fix a problem that corrected the problem
of being hard to start. You can just crank on it loger, use bigger and more
batteries to suck fuel up to the injectors, and that will work and is, in
fact, what most folks do, but I have always been able to fix mine so that they
start easily through keeping the fuel system in top shape. I own one diesel
in a Ford F-250 pickup. I also own two tractor trailers with big 550 hp
engines and smaller diesel powered aux. power units on them, too. None of these
are hard to start in the cold because they are all equipped with block
heaters that keep the coolant warm. When it gets REALLY cold, I also use a heated
dipstick that tends to keep the engine oil close to 85 degrees. A!
ll of my trucks start just fine in really cold weather. It has been
hovering around 0 degrees here for a couple of weeks and all of my trucks started
everyday with no problems, usually after just a couple of turns of the engine.
One of my trucks sat outside in North Dakota for three days last week. It
started on the third turn. In fact, I drive my diesel pickup more in the cold
weather because the oil and coolant is warm all the time, and my car has to
start cold. The diesel engines run smooth from the start and my car and farm
tractor complain to me for the first few seconds. It is my opinion that
because of the block and oil heating devices, my diesels suffer less wear than
my gas engines from cold weather starts. It is simply a matter of plugging
it in to a 110 volt electrical outlet at night, or just a couple of hours or
so before starting (depending on the temp). I prefer to leave them plugged in
all the time when not in use. For an airplane, I think I would l!
eave the block heater off and just use the heated dipstick so!
not to
add any extra flying weight. To me, that sounds easier than the propane
powered pre-heater that I use on the PA-28 I rent now. Just show up at the
hangar, unplug and remove the heated dipstick, and replace the normal dipstick.
You are ready to rock and roll.
As for the starters and batteries, both of my semi's are equipped with
auxiliary power units so that we don't need to idle the big engine for overnight
stays and still run the heat/AC, provide electricity in the sleeper for
lights, refrigerator, microwave, engine block heaters, battery charging for the
big
engine, etc. These units use lighter twin cylinder diesel engines, made by
Kubota, and require only a single battery that is lighter than the one in my
little V-6 powered car. It will spin and start the little Kubotas very
easily. The starters are pretty much the same as a lawn mower. I doubt that
for
these lighter aircraft diesels, any huge heavy battery or starter would be
needed. We do use huge starters on truck diesels, but I think that it is
because manufacturers realize that most will allow small air leaks in the fuel
system exist. I think these diesels could be great for airplanes if they can
just keep the installed weight down. I hope by the time I am final!
ly ready to start building, I will have a choice of engines that can run on
diesel or Jet-A. I like it more than gas because of the volatility of
gasoline. Also, my auto and truck diesels last a whole heck of a lot longer
than
my gas engine cars. One of my truck engines has 1.2 million miles on it. I
usually run trucks to 1.5 million before trading them in or rebuilding them
with meticulous maintenance, of course. I am sure most aircraft owners,
particularly folks who built them are very good about maintenance. I hope that
longevity will be the same in aircraft diesels. Just my opinions.
--------
Every takeoff is optional, but every landing is mandatory!
Message 3
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A really terrific book I have is "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" by
Vaughan Askue. You should actualy buy (and I mean buy, because if you
borrow it, you will not want to give it back) it before you start
throwing the big parts together because it has quite a bit of info on
ergonomics and modifying the cabin to suit you (and your parachute).
It is surprisingly thin for what it is, but it has all the good stuff
from the first flight to envelope expansion and developing the numbers
for your aircraft. It is also honest and covers the real dangers (and
risk-reduction) of flying a new plane.
I do not have anything to gain by plugging this book, other than - ....
I just don't want to lend mine out anymore.
I am sure that others would agree.
Martin Bima
Winnipeg CANADA
701
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
Hello Craig:
My comments on the diesel manufacturers were mainly aimed at SMA and
Thielert. Yes, Deltahawk, Vulcan, and Diesel-Air appear to be actively courting
the
experimental market. Unfortunatly, none of these manufacturers are shipping
product !!!! Maybe SMA and Thielert have the right strategy for right now
???
I agree that SMA and Thielert want to pursue a minimum of "customers" and go
for critical mass in the marketplace, but that means gearing up to train lots
of technicians on new technology. I see a lot of overhead built into thier
selling costs to bring service help to stranded engines so these planes can
get home.
I agree with your position on Innodyn - I feel the same way about
Diesel-Air. BTW, the licencee for Diesel-Air here in the US responded to one
of my
emails saying they expect to retail the DAIR-100 at about $24,000 !!!!! At that
price, I'm not a early adopter !!
Tracy Smith
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 2/18/2007 8:22:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pilot4profit@sbcglobal.net writes:
Tracy, your observations about some of the new power plant makers not even
concerned about the experimental market is interesting. When, after spending
considerable sums of money in development, the makers find that the certified
manufacturers do not start buying or only one manufacturer seems to get the
contracts, you will see them come running to the home-builders to sell
whatever they can.
One would think that the minimum of red tape to cut in the exp market to be
a very attractive incentive. On the other hand you'll not see a more frugal
group of people either. That I believe is the reason for ignoring us. The
investors want return quickly as possible, and have planned for an adoption by
TC
manufactures for big contracts.
The problem with that strategy, TC manufacturers (in general) are not early
adopters of anything, but would rather see an established track record of a
given technology before taking a risk with it.
On economy/fuel efficiency, I remember reading an article that did a rather
good job of breaking down the available energy in the fuels, then comparing
it with the efficiencies of the motors. If I find that piece, I'll reference
it so everyone can look it up. You are correct, diesel/jet-a/kerosene have
more energy per pound. Biggest problem is the reciprocating piston internal
combustion engine, is not very efficient at converting that to useable
mechanical output. Then there's the weight thing associated with the higher
compression combustion needing more robust construction....
My future choice for a power plant is tentatively the innodyn turbine. I'm
just hoping they can deliver on the promised technology. AFAICT there have not
been too many shipments of product. I wish them well, but won't send any
deposit until there are units in the field.
Craig Smith (not the other Craig)
____________________________________
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crvsecretary@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith
Hello Craig:
Not true. Diesels by design and by fuel chemistry deliver more miles per
pound of fuel.
Rule of thumb: The heavier the fuel the more energy per pound. OK, before
all the chemical engineers flame me, I'm just making the comparison that #4
bunker oil that is thick as sludge and has to be moved while hot contains more
energy per pound than a light distillate. Diesel fuel and Jet-A (more
similiar to kerosene than #2 diesel) have more oomph than gasoline.
Gasoline has to run at (approximately) 14.5 to 1 to burn - diesels idle at
as little as 100 to 1 and at full power come close to 14 to 1. Many of the
old big rigs that have mechanical injection are overfuelled when they belch
black smoke because they are running rich...there is not enough oxygen to burn
all the fuel. So, whe you are at cruise power, there is always excess oxygen
in the cylinder for a complete burn..and the single lever control will see to
it. Goodbye mixture knob !
I will be following these light sport diesels very carefully. The Vulcan
and the DAIR-100 from the UK look VERY promising. The DAIR is a TWO-STROKE
design very similiar to the Fairbanks-Morse design that powered the majority of
the old US diesel submarine fleet and are still being made for stationary and
marine applications.
The DeltaHawk is looking to be a fine design, but just too much for our
Zeniths; same for the Thielert. The SMA diesel isn't even looking at the
experimental market...is it ?
Tracy Smith
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Stratus problems |
Gents,
I got a call from an HDS builder not too far from
me who is having problems with his Stratus. I fly
with a Corvair, so I am not much help. His engine
runs great on climb out, but when he throttles back on
downwind, it runs very poorly. I have a hunch that is
is a sync problem between his dual bing carbs, but I
am not a Subaru guy... I will relay any
troubleshooting tips any of you may have.
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours
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Message 6
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| Subject: | wing attachment /cables |
hi list
i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
wondering how you can take the wings off later and
disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
put it together, the cables cannot be easily
disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
this problem. any suggestions.
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
So, acting real casual, like I just wanted to make conversation, I wa
lk up next to this guy who knows a lot about diesels, and I very casua
lly ask, "what's the horsepower, weight and RPM on one of them there K
ubota auxiliary engines?"=0A=0APaul Rodriguez=0A601XL/Coprvai
r=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: 2thesky<mailto:big
gerspurs@HOTMAIL.COM> =0A To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zen
ith-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 2:10 A
M=0A Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith=0A=0A=0A --
ilto:biggerspurs@hotmail.com>>=0A=0A=0A Float Flyr wrote:
=0A > One down side could be that diesels are notoriously hard to s
tart in cold weather. They do need good size starters and probably he
avy batteries.=0A=0A=0A Only diesel engines that aren't pro
perly cared for, have fuel pressure problems, or are worn out are hard
to start. I currently own five diesel engines and have owned many mo
re in the past. Every time I have had a hard to start engine, I have
been able to find and fix a problem that corrected the problem of bein
g hard to start. You can just crank on it loger, use bigger and more
batteries to suck fuel up to the injectors, and that will work and is,
in fact, what most folks do, but I have always been able to fix mine
so that they start easily through keeping the fuel system in top shape
I own one diesel in a Ford F-250 pickup. I also own two tractor tr
ailers with big 550 hp engines and smaller diesel powered aux. power u
nits on them, too. None of these are hard to start in the cold becaus
e they are all equipped with block heaters that keep the coolant warm.
When it gets REALLY cold, I also use a heated dipstick that tends to
keep the engine oil close to 85 degrees. A!=0A ll of my trucks
start just fine in really cold weather. It has been hovering around 0
degrees here for a couple of weeks and all of my trucks started every
day with no problems, usually after just a couple of turns of the engi
ne. One of my trucks sat outside in North Dakota for three days last
week. It started on the third turn. In fact, I drive my diesel picku
p more in the cold weather because the oil and coolant is warm all the
time, and my car has to start cold. The diesel engines run smooth fr
om the start and my car and farm tractor complain to me for the first
few seconds. It is my opinion that because of the block and oil heati
ng devices, my diesels suffer less wear than my gas engines from cold
weather starts. It is simply a matter of plugging it in to a 110 volt
electrical outlet at night, or just a couple of hours or so before st
arting (depending on the temp). I prefer to leave them plugged in all
the time when not in use. For an airplane, I think I would l!=0A
eave the block heater off and just use the heated dipstick so!
=0A not to =0A=0A add any extra flying weight. To me, that
sounds easier than the propane powered pre-heater that I use on the PA
-28 I rent now. Just show up at the hangar, unplug and remove the hea
ted dipstick, and replace the normal dipstick. You are ready to rock
and roll. =0A=0A As for the starters and batteries, both of my
semi's are equipped with auxiliary power units so that we don't need t
o idle the big engine for overnight stays and still run the heat/AC, p
rovide electricity in the sleeper for lights, refrigerator, microwave,
engine block heaters, battery charging for the big engine, etc. Thes
e units use lighter twin cylinder diesel engines, made by Kubota, and
require only a single battery that is lighter than the one in my littl
e V-6 powered car. It will spin and start the little Kubotas very eas
ily. The starters are pretty much the same as a lawn mower. I doubt
that for these lighter aircraft diesels, any huge heavy battery or sta
rter would be needed. We do use huge starters on truck diesels, but
I think that it is because manufacturers realize that most will allow
small air leaks in the fuel system exist. I think these diesels could
be great for airplanes if they can just keep the installed weight dow
n. I hope by the time I am final!=0A ly ready to start building,
I will have a choice of engines that can run on diesel or Jet-A. I l
ike it more than gas because of the volatility of gasoline. Also, my
auto and truck diesels last a whole heck of a lot longer than my gas
engine cars. One of my truck engines has 1.2 million miles on it. I
usually run trucks to 1.5 million before trading them in or rebuilding
them with meticulous maintenance, of course. I am sure most aircraft
owners, particularly folks who built them are very good about mainten
ance. I hope that longevity will be the same in aircraft diesels. J
ust my opinions.=0A=0A --------=0A Every takeoff is optiona
l, but every landing is mandatory!=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A Read
this topic online here:=0A=0A http://forums.matronics.com/view
topic.php?p-976#95976<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p
=======================
=======================
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matro
=======================
=======================
=======================
=====================0A
=0A=0A=0A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Test Pilot |
Thank you. I'll check it out.
Darrell
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bima, Martin" <mbima@hydro.mb.ca>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 6:23 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Test Pilot
>
>
> A really terrific book I have is "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" by
> Vaughan Askue. You should actualy buy (and I mean buy, because if you
> borrow it, you will not want to give it back) it before you start
> throwing the big parts together because it has quite a bit of info on
> ergonomics and modifying the cabin to suit you (and your parachute).
>
> It is surprisingly thin for what it is, but it has all the good stuff
> from the first flight to envelope expansion and developing the numbers
> for your aircraft. It is also honest and covers the real dangers (and
> risk-reduction) of flying a new plane.
>
> I do not have anything to gain by plugging this book, other than - ....
> I just don't want to lend mine out anymore.
>
> I am sure that others would agree.
>
>
> Martin Bima
> Winnipeg CANADA
> 701
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil in air cooled engines |
Things are a little confused here. There is mineral oil, and the remainder is ashless dispersant. Ashless dispersant can be synthetic or petroleum based, or a combination. An example of how Lycoming refers to them can be seen here http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications/serviceInstructions/SI1014M.pdf
Mineral oil is not often the choice for normal, non-break-in operation (see above
link).
Synthetic is sometimes the oil of choice. Rotax recommends semi-synthetic for all-around
use, and full synthetic as long as 100LL is not used more than 30% of
the time. This is because fully synthetic oil can have difficulty keeping the
large amounts of lead in suspension, leading to accumulation, and bad things,
such as potential spalling of gearbox components. I mention the Rotax because
clearly not everyone is flying every day and yet semi- or full synthetic remains
the manufacturer recommendation.
Bill Mileski
701 912S 76hrs
>
> So true:
>
> Synthetic oil is great in engines that are used for long periods of time everyday.
For everything else, including differentials mineral lube. If you aren't
flying a couple of hours every day don't even consider Synthetic oils.
>
>
>
> Noel
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'059#96059
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| Subject: | Re: Stratus problems |
Brandon,
I called Tim this morning and discussed his problem at length. He
needed the Bing
Carburetor manual and jetting information. I provided Matronics and Bing
links, plus files
to help him safely disassemble the carburetors and made him aware of
other issues, valve guide
info, ignition modules (TP45 NAPA), and also dual ignition drawings, etc.
It seems his first item of concern was main jet and mid jet sizes and
the fact
that he needed to temporarily reinstall the foam filters to get a richer
mixture to correct excess
airflow until he can digest the Bing carb jetting info and sent
historical data to make adjustments.
He has a very expensive vernier dual throttle cable that he can set up
for purely push pull operation,
so I doubt his throttle plates are out of sync.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Brandon Tucker wrote:
>
> Gents,
>
> I got a call from an HDS builder not too far from
> me who is having problems with his Stratus. I fly
> with a Corvair, so I am not much help. His engine
> runs great on climb out, but when he throttles back on
> downwind, it runs very poorly. I have a hunch that is
> is a sync problem between his dual bing carbs, but I
> am not a Subaru guy... I will relay any
> troubleshooting tips any of you may have.
>
> VR/
>
> Brandon Tucker
> 601 HDS / TD / Corvair
> 70 hours
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update |
I just finished cortecing my flaps yesterday, and will rivet tonight.
The new doc is a lot better than the old one. It would have helped me. I really
like the way they do the piano hinge. The part about starting drilling from
the trailing edge is different too - the old way was "front - bottom - top".
I built mine on steel rails, so I wonder if it'll make a difference?
Note the photo where they have their control plate installed wrong, next to their
suggestion of waiting until the wing is bolted to the fuselage. I can really
appreciate the subtle humor there. [Laughing]
My control plate is oriented correctly - per the drawings, but there's no way of
knowing how far off I am until I get a fuselage. I only drilled the rivet holes
and the center hole (not a slot) so hopefully I have enough leeway there.
I'm glad they are updating their doc's. I'm happy with how it's all going so far.
- Patrick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'063#96063
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| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
That would be the Kubota Z-482E rated at 12.5hp at 3600 RPM. Weight? Too
heavy for light sport applications but really light for a Big Rig APU.
Thanks for asking.
Tracy Smith
DEFINITELY Do Not Archive.
In a message dated 2/19/2007 1:25:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
paulrod36@msn.com writes:
So, acting real casual, like I just wanted to make conversation, I walk up
next to this guy who knows a lot about diesels, and I very casually ask,
"what's the horsepower, weight and RPM on one of them there Kubota auxiliary
engines?"
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Coprvair
----- Original Message -----
From: _2thesky_ (mailto:biggerspurs@HOTMAIL.COM)
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 2:10 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith
(mailto:biggerspurs@hotmail.com) >
Float Flyr wrote:
> One down side could be that diesels are notoriously hard to start in
cold weather. They do need good size starters and probably heavy batteries.
Only diesel engines that aren't properly cared for, have fuel pressure
problems, or are worn out are hard to start. I currently own five diesel engines
and have owned many more in the past. Every time I have had a hard to start
engine, I have been able to find and fix a problem that corrected the
problem of being hard to start. You can just crank on it loger, use bigger and
more batteries to suck fuel up to the injectors, and that will work and is, in
fact, what most folks do, but I have always been able to fix mine so that they
start easily through keeping the fuel system in top shape. I own one diesel
in a Ford F-250 pickup. I also own two tractor trailers with big 550 hp
engines and smaller diesel powered aux. power units on them, too None of these
are hard to start in the cold because they are all equipped with block
heaters that keep the coolant warm. When it gets REALLY cold, I also use a heated
dipstick that tends to keep the engine oil close to 85 degrees. A!
ll of my trucks start just fine in really cold weather. It has been
hovering around 0 degrees here for a couple of weeks and all of my trucks started
everyday with no problems, usually after just a couple of turns of the engine.
One of my trucks sat outside in North Dakota for three days last week. It
started on the third turn. In fact, I drive my diesel pickup more in the
cold weather because the oil and coolant is warm all the time, and my car has
to
start cold. The diesel engines run smooth from the start and my car and
farm tractor complain to me for the first few seconds. It is my opinion that
because of the block and oil heating devices, my diesels suffer less wear than
my gas engines from cold weather starts. It is simply a matter of plugging
it in to a 110 volt electrical outlet at night, or just a couple of hours or
so before starting (depending on the temp). I prefer to leave them plugged in
all the time when not in use. For an airplane, I think I would l!
eave the block heater off and just use the heated dipstick so!
not to
add any extra flying weight. To me, that sounds easier than the propane
powered pre-heater that I use on the PA-28 I rent now. Just show up at the
hangar, unplug and remove the heated dipstick, and replace the normal dipstick.
You are ready to rock and roll.
As for the starters and batteries, both of my semi's are equipped with
auxiliary power units so that we don't need to idle the big engine for overnight
stays and still run the heat/AC, provide electricity in the sleeper for
lights, refrigerator, microwave, engine block heaters, battery charging for the
big
engine, etc. These units use lighter twin cylinder diesel engines, made by
Kubota, and require only a single battery that is lighter than the one in my
little V-6 powered car. It will spin and start the little Kubotas very
easily. The starters are pretty much the same as a lawn mower. I doubt that
for
these lighter aircraft diesels, any huge heavy battery or starter would be
needed. We do use huge starters on truck diesels, but I think that it is
because manufacturers realize that most will allow small air leaks in the fuel
system exist. I think these diesels could be great for airplanes if they can
just keep the installed weight down. I hope by the time I am final!
ly ready to start building, I will have a choice of engines that can run on
diesel or Jet-A. I like it more than gas because of the volatility of
gasoline. Also, my auto and truck diesels last a whole heck of a lot longer
than
my gas engine cars. One of my truck engines has 1.2 million miles on it. I
usually run trucks to 1.5 million before trading them in or rebuilding them
with meticulous maintenance, of course. I am sure most aircraft owners,
particularly folks who built them are very good about maintenance. I hope that
longevity will be the same in aircraft diesels. Just my opinions.
--------
Every takeoff is optional, but every landing is mandatory!
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Stratus problems |
Larry,
Your post is the exact reason why I sent him in
your direction first. You are and asset to this
forum.
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours
Want to start your own business?
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Stratus problems |
Hi Brandon:
Maybe not a synch problem, but a mixture problem......
Between 3/4 throttle and WOT, the slides on the Bings are all the way up,
pulling the needles (virtually) completely out of the main jets. Engine runs
well. BUT, turning downwind the throttle closes and the needles drop into the
main jets and now the mixture is controlled by the taper of the needle.
There are many different needles available with different tapers, but let's
assume the needle is correct. The needle is held in place by a clip installed
in
the slide, and there are usually three or four different grooves machined
into the needle. Installing the needle on the groove nearest the END of the
needle puts the needle further INTO the main jet for a given position of the
slide, so the mixture is lean. The groove furthest AWAY from the end of the
needle pulls the needle OUT of the main jet for a given position of the slide,
so the mixture is rich.
I'd look at this first. It's easy to check, just handle the diaphragms VERY
carefully while pulling the top of the carb off. He'll have to resynch
anyway if the throttle adjustments are tampered with as the top comes off.....
Good luck.
Tracy Smith
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 2/19/2007 12:06:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
btucke73@yahoo.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Brandon Tucker <btucke73@yahoo.com>
Gents,
I got a call from an HDS builder not too far from
me who is having problems with his Stratus. I fly
with a Corvair, so I am not much help. His engine
runs great on climb out, but when he throttles back on
downwind, it runs very poorly. I have a hunch that is
is a sync problem between his dual bing carbs, but I
am not a Subaru guy... I will relay any
troubleshooting tips any of you may have.
VR/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
John, you can disconnect the alerion cables at the bell crank. Tie a cord to each
and pull them through the wing as you pull the wing away from the fuselage.
Then untie the cords once they have cleared the wing. That way you have cords
through the wing to re-fish the cables back to the bell crank once the wings
are re attached. I have did it without the cords and it is a pain in the butt.
The electrics and fuel connections are obvious. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
601XL-3300 104 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: jdbutterfield@yahoo.com
Sent: Mon, 19 Feb 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: wing attachment /cables
hi list
i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
wondering how you can take the wings off later and
disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
put it together, the cables cannot be easily
disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
this problem. any suggestions.
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: wing attachment /cables
hi list
i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
wondering how you can take the wings off later and
disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
put it together, the cables cannot be easily
disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
this problem. any suggestions.
john butterfield
601XL, corvair
torrance, ca
John,
I used to work on the F-100 jet fighter,and it had a nice quick disconnect setup
for the flight control cables when taking off the aft fuselage section.It was
a neat system because you didn't always have to re-set the cable tension.I too
would like to do my flyoff at an airport with a long runway(Niagara Falls Int,with
a 9800' runway).My home airport is grass and 2100' wth trees.I'm going
to check with the guys at EAA Chapter 46 and see if they have ever heard of cable
quick disconnects for a small aircraft.I'll post a message if I get any good
info.
Bob Haring,601XL
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
Hi Bill,
The idea with the cords in the wings to replace the aileron cables is
a great one. However, for those who lose the cord or don't have one
I can suggest a method to replace the cord.
All you need is a long stick, some cord, and maybe some duct
tape. You attach the cord to one end of the stick with the duct tape
and shove the stick in the path the cable needs to take. You can
remove the tape and cord end near the aileron bellcrank and remove
the stick. Of course this method won't work if the wing is attached
to the fuselage.
Paul
Washington State
At 12:02 PM 2/19/2007, you wrote:
>John, you can disconnect the alerion cables at the bell crank. Tie a
>cord to each and pull them through the wing as you pull the wing
>away from the fuselage. Then untie the cords once they have cleared
>the wing. That way you have cords through the wing to re-fish the
>cables back to the bell crank once the wings are re attached. I have
>did it without the cords and it is a pain in the butt. The electrics
>and fuel connections are obvious. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
>601XL-3300 104 hours
>
--
Message 18
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| Subject: | 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant wouldn't mind
sharing some of your plane specifications? I have been reading gobs about
the engine and the plane and it seems like a pretty good fit to me, but I keep
having one nagging problem and since I don't actually have a plane or any real
experience, I was hoping that some of you might share.
I was curious what the useful load of a Corvair powered 601XL was?
With a full tank, using the Lycoming O-235 as a comparable engine of approximatly
the same weight (from the XL specifications page), I'm basically getting that
the max take off weight is about 375lbs.
This is important to me because my father and I are not small people, we both are
over 200lbs and even our most optimal and healthy weight would still have us
both over 200lbs. Can anyone speak to this from actual real first hand knowledge?
Any feedback greatly appreciated.
Jason
PS: My calculations were based on 24 gallons of fule on the XL weighing 145lbs.
520-145 = 375lbs avaliable for two passengers.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'098#96098
Message 19
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I just purchased my basic white paint today for my 601XL and I found a real
great buy! I picked up a gallon of Ultraguard urethane which is similar to
Imron for only $69 per gallon! Its made in Sheboygan Wisconsin and is used
by Oshkosh Truck. Its a full gallon, not 3/4's like Imron. This stuff can be
mixed to match any color.
I also learned something today from these masters of paint! I asked for the
brightest white I could get and they basically talked me out of it! By
adding a little grey or blue, you don't need as much paint to cover, and it
looks better! I thought white was white, but he brought out about 50 shades!
I picked a deep white with a hint of blue instead of the hint of grey.
Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI supplies paint to the auto body industry and to
factories. I was told they have 5 gal of Ultraguard urethane that was
ordered by Leach Truck before they went out of business. It's a light to
medium grey and they will sell it for $20 per gallon! If anyone is looking
for that color, call 920-235-6520.
Joe Scheibinger
601 XL in Oshkosh
Message 20
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I just purchased my basic white paint today for my 601XL and I found a real
great buy! I picked up a gallon of Ultraguard urethane which is similar to
Imron for only $69 per gallon! Its made in Sheboygan Wisconsin and is used
by Oshkosh Truck. Its a full gallon, not 3/4's like Imron. This stuff can be
mixed to match any color.
I also learned something today from these masters of paint! I asked for the
brightest white I could get and they basically talked me out of it! By
adding a little grey or blue, you don't need as much paint to cover, and it
looks better! I thought white was white, but he brought out about 50 shades!
I picked a deep white with a hint of blue instead of the hint of grey.
Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI supplies paint to the auto body industry and to
factories. I was told they have 5 gal of Ultraguard urethane that was
ordered by Leach Truck before they went out of business. It's a light to
medium grey and they will sell it for $20 per gallon! If anyone is looking
for that color, call 920-235-6520.
Joe Scheibinger
601 XL in Oshkosh
Message 21
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| Subject: | 601HD for sale (official) |
Listers, so I'm breaking down and selling my 601HD now. I've had an
ad up locally for exactly 24 hours and I've already had an interested
party.
Anyhow here's the laundry list:
Zenair Zodiac 601HD. Built in 2005. 50 Hours TT. 80HP Rotax 912
engine. Forward opening tinted canopy (like the XL model) which is
much safer than the stock HD side-opening canopy. European cowling
system (CZAW) provides better cooling and faster cruise (105 Mph). 3-
blade Warp Drive ground-adjustable composite prop with spinner. Full
VFR panel with ASI, VSI, ALT, electric turn and bank, Grand Rapids
EIS for engine monitoring, ICOM A6 radio, Garmin 176 GPS, 2-place
Sigtronics intercom. 2 headsets included. Has both electric elevator
and aileron trim. Kuntzelman strobes. External radio antenna. Centre
console with 2 12V AUX power outlets. Interior has cabin heat. 16
Gallon header tank with 2 7-gallon wing tanks (30 gallons for long-
range flight). Streamlined enclosed wheel boxes. Beautiful white/
black/grey paint job. Over $45,000 invested. Asking $36,500. Call
Trevor at 519 448-4816 after 6PM.
Registered as Advanced Ultralight in Canada. It's not qualifyable as
an LSA in the US but one could do the homebuilt thing...
Anyone interested can contact me off-list
Lots of pictures here: http://pagefamily.homeunix.org/gallery/
main.php?g2_itemId=1062
Trev Page
C-IDUS 601HD R912
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 1st Hundred Hours of Building (XL) |
I'm a above the 400 hours mark and am on the Fuselage sides.
Wings done and Tail section done.
Rich Simmons
601 XL
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
Hi Jason,
I can't give you the information you ask, but perhaps I can help a little.
If you find the corvair engine is too heavy for your use, I suggest
you consider using either a Rotax or Jabiru engine. I believe each
of these choices is considerably lighter than any cast iron block engine.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage (Jabiru 3300 on order)
do not archive
At 01:41 PM 2/19/2007, you wrote:
>
>Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant
>wouldn't mind sharing some of your plane specifications? I have
>been reading gobs about the engine and the plane and it seems like a
>pretty good fit to me, but I keep having one nagging problem and
>since I don't actually have a plane or any real experience, I was
>hoping that some of you might share.
>
>I was curious what the useful load of a Corvair powered 601XL was?
>
>With a full tank, using the Lycoming O-235 as a comparable engine of
>approximatly the same weight (from the XL specifications page), I'm
>basically getting that the max take off weight is about 375lbs.
>
>This is important to me because my father and I are not small
>people, we both are over 200lbs and even our most optimal and
>healthy weight would still have us both over 200lbs. Can anyone
>speak to this from actual real first hand knowledge?
>
>Any feedback greatly appreciated.
>
>Jason
>
>PS: My calculations were based on 24 gallons of fule on the XL
>weighing 145lbs. 520-145 = 375lbs avaliable for two passengers.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'098#96098
>
>
---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
---------------------------------------------
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Trevor & 601 for sale |
Sure hate to see you sell it......after all the hand-wringing and hard work the
least you could do is give everybody a ride. That would take most of the remainder
of the year.
Best regards,
Zed do not archive Smith
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| Subject: | 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
Here is a quote from William Wynne's web site about their Corvair-equipped
601xl (look about 3/4s of the way down the page):
"Like Gus, Derek is a very burly guy. Together, they weigh more than 500
pounds. But the 601's efficient airframe, and its 44" wide cabin flew both
of them in comfort with a good rate of climb. In extreme cases like this, we
do not operate the airplane with full fuel. But two FAA sized people could
fill up the 24 gallon tanks on the XL, still carry 86 pounds of baggage, and
be within gross weight. With the standard Corvair engine, this combination
performs very well."
http://www.flycorvair.com/601.html
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
After reading Paul's posting on cast iron Corvairs I got real scared and
ran out to the hanger to put a magnet on the Corvair block I'm building
up with alum cyls. WHEW !!! It had NOT changed into cast iron
overnight, it was STILL aluminum. Glad all that work and money to build
a lightweight, CHEAP, 100 hp engine had not been destroyed.
I put a cover over it thou so any of those cast iron gremlins roaming
around wouldn't find it and convert it . I've learned some new stuff
today!!
LOW&SLOW John
<p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Jason,
I can't give you the information you ask, but perhaps I can help a
little.
If you find the corvair engine is too heavy for your use, I suggest
you consider using either a Rotax or Jabiru engine. I believe each
of these choices is considerably lighter than any cast iron block
engine.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage (Jabiru 3300 on order)
do not archive
At 01:41 PM 2/19/2007, you wrote:
>
>Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant
>wouldn't mind sharing some of your plane specifications? I have
>been reading gobs about the engine and the plane and it seems like a
>pretty good fit to me, but I keep having one nagging problem and
>since I don't actually have a plane or any real experience, I was
>hoping that some of you might share.
>
Message 27
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That's almost too good of a price for urethane paint....
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Joe" <joe@kfiz.com> wrote:
I just purchased my basic white paint today for my 601XL and I found a r
eal
great buy! I picked up a gallon of Ultraguard urethane which is similar
to
Imron for only $69 per gallon! Its made in Sheboygan Wisconsin and is us
ed
by Oshkosh Truck. Its a full gallon, not 3/4's like Imron. This stuff ca
n be
mixed to match any color.
I also learned something today from these masters of paint! I asked for
the
brightest white I could get and they basically talked me out of it! By
adding a little grey or blue, you don't need as much paint to cover, and
it
looks better! I thought white was white, but he brought out about 50 sha
des!
I picked a deep white with a hint of blue instead of the hint of grey.
Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI supplies paint to the auto body industry and t
o
factories. I was told they have 5 gal of Ultraguard urethane that was
ordered by Leach Truck before they went out of business. It's a light to
medium grey and they will sell it for $20 per gallon! If anyone is looki
ng
for that color, call 920-235-6520.
Joe Scheibinger
601 XL in Oshkosh
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P>That's almost too good of a price for urethane paint....</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "Joe" <joe@kfiz.com> wrote:<BR>-->
; Zenith-List message posted by: "Joe" <
;joe@kfiz.com><BR><BR>I just purchased my basic&n
bsp;white paint today for my 601XL and&nbs
p;I found a real <BR>great buy! I pic
ked up a gallon of Ultraguard urethane&nbs
p;which is similar to <BR>Imron for only&n
bsp;$69 per gallon! Its made in Sheboygan&
nbsp;Wisconsin and is used <BR>by Oshkosh
Truck. Its a full gallon, not 3/4's l
ike Imron. This stuff can be <BR>mixed&nbs
p;to match any color.<BR><BR>I also learned&nbs
p;something today from these masters of pa
int! I asked for the <BR>brightest white&n
bsp;I could get and they basically talked&
nbsp;me out of it! By <BR>adding a li
ttle grey or blue, you don't need as&
nbsp;much paint to cover, and it <BR>looks
better! I thought white was white, b
ut he brought out about 50 shades! <B
R>I picked a deep white with a hint&n
bsp;of blue instead of the hint of gr
ey.<BR><BR>Tower Paint in Oshkosh WI supplies&n
bsp;paint to the auto body industry and&nb
sp;to <BR>factories. I was told they have&
nbsp;5 gal of Ultraguard urethane that was
<BR>ordered by Leach Truck before they&nb
sp;went out of business. It's a light 
;to <BR>medium grey and they will sell&nbs
p;it for $20 per gallon! If anyone is
looking <BR>for that color, call 920-235-
6520.<BR><BR>Joe Scheibinger<BR>601 XL in Oshkosh<BR
========================
- The Zenith-L
bsp;the many List utilities such as the&nb
sp; --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<BR>_
-========================
========================
sp; - NEW 
p;content now also available via the Web&n
========================
===============<BR></P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Prospective 701 flyer - Performance questions |
Hello Chaps,
I've all but made the decision to build a 701, (Quick build, once the European
distribution situation and LSA issue settle down), and having absorbed as much
as I can from the Zenith website and this forum, I have some questions about
the reality of flying the aeroplane.
- What's the real world cruise speed and endurance with the standard 20 USG tank
fit? Is there any need for the additional 20 USG tanks?
- 80 v 100 HP Rotax? Most of Europe (less the Alps) is relatively low! Does the
shorter T/O and slightly better cruise outweigh the extra cost and harshness
(?) of the 100 Hp engine?
- Have many of you fitted a ballistic recovery system?
There's a whole bunch of other questions, but I would appreciate your experiences
in answering these ones.
Regards,
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'135#96135
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon |
Ron, Gig+All-
Glad to hear it. The last thing I wanted to hear after the wing was
basically all closed up, the plumbing run, mounting holes drilled, rivnuts
installed and everything bought and paid for, that I'd have to tear
everything apart and start over.
Been there, done that too many times.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Dynon pitot-Ron Lendon
>
> Bill,
>
> Gig is right, any pitot will work. I just liked the AOA Dynon tube and do
> plan to tune it in.
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
> Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
> http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-929#95929
>
>
>
Message 30
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Larry-
Okay, you got me. Farther back toward the tail.
I originally planned to only use a belly strobe, but EAA technical
brought up the logical question "What about an aircraft above you? On the
other hand, I've been caught in fog before and barely kept my composure
without the distraction of tip strobes. This fog comes up in a matter of
seconds around here- I experienced it again last 4th of July, but luckily I
was on the ground. You have to see it to believe it.
I suppose you could put a strobe on top of the rudder, but I shudder to
think what a retrofit that would be at this point in time!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Strobes
>
> Bill,
> Aren't you worried that if you put strobes on the turtle deck you'll pick
> up extraneous flash within that big bubble.
> That might be a bigger distraction.
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
>
> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>> All-
>> Is there anyone out there that installed belly and/or turtle deck
>> strobes? I never wanted them on the wingtips, even before I decided to
>> polish, rather than paint. Too distracting.
>> Bill Naumuk
>> HDS Fuselage
>> Townville, Pa
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 31
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Tim-
I never had any problem with the belly strobe on my 172, and figure tip
strobes on a high wing wouldn't be as much of a factor.
Also, the Hawk was painted, not polished.
Do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 11:54 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Strobes
>
> Turtle deck? Do you mean behind the canopy? That is the last place I
> would put a strobe. You'll notice that rudder mounted strobes are
> typically masked to flash only toward the rear 270 of arc.
>
> I haven't finished my XL but I've had experience with strobes in a bunch
> of other locations. Generally I found the belly or wingtips to be the
> least distracting, although I had to mask off the globe of the belly
> strobe to avoid flashing the arc of the prop. The wingtip strobes on my
> 182 were only a problem if I forgot and left them on entering clouds.
>
> I too am curious whether the placement of the strobes on the XL causes any
> distraction. Chime in guys.
>
> Tim
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> ______________
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
> Working on wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-845#95845
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Test Pilot |
I'll second that. It's a very good book on test flying.
On Feb 19, 2007, at 9:23 AM, Bima, Martin wrote:
>
>
> A really terrific book I have is "Flight Testing Homebuilt
> Aircraft" by
> Vaughan Askue.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 33
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It doesn't matter where the strobes are mounted, if you fly into
clouds, they will reflect back at you. Just reach out and shut them
off. The wingtips are probably the least distracting place for them.
And since they need to be visible from all directions around the
plane, the wingtips are probably the most convenient place to mount
them unless you are retrofitting them into an already completed
airframe.
On Feb 18, 2007, at 11:14 AM, Bill Naumuk wrote:
> All-
> Is there anyone out there that installed belly and/or turtle
> deck strobes? I never wanted them on the wingtips, even before I
> decided to polish, rather than paint. Too distracting.
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuselage
> Townville, Pa
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 34
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dude,
if the glare bugs you, put a fairing, made with a peice of metal to block the
light from glaring back to the cock pit. lots of the older planes have them.Option,
shut them of and don't use, option three put a big red one on tail bottom,
option four, is there an option four? get up and fly and don't worry bout
it.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net>
>Sent: Feb 19, 2007 7:01 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Strobes
>
>
>Larry-
> Okay, you got me. Farther back toward the tail.
> I originally planned to only use a belly strobe, but EAA technical
>brought up the logical question "What about an aircraft above you? On the
>other hand, I've been caught in fog before and barely kept my composure
>without the distraction of tip strobes. This fog comes up in a matter of
>seconds around here- I experienced it again last 4th of July, but luckily I
>was on the ground. You have to see it to believe it.
> I suppose you could put a strobe on top of the rudder, but I shudder to
>think what a retrofit that would be at this point in time!
> do not archive
>Bill Naumuk
>HDS Fuselage
>Townville, Pa
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 1:41 PM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Strobes
>
>
>>
>> Bill,
>> Aren't you worried that if you put strobes on the turtle deck you'll pick
>> up extraneous flash within that big bubble.
>> That might be a bigger distraction.
>>
>> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>> All-
>>> Is there anyone out there that installed belly and/or turtle deck
>>> strobes? I never wanted them on the wingtips, even before I decided to
>>> polish, rather than paint. Too distracting.
>>> Bill Naumuk
>>> HDS Fuselage
>>> Townville, Pa
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Stratus problems |
There are some other factors that might be at work. I am about thirty
hours into the test program for my 601HD with a Stratus Suburu. Carb
synch is very important and can be hard to do. I originally synched mine
on the ground with a motorcycle flow gage. The problem was since I
didn't want to stand next to the engine with the prop on I could only do
this at idle. I also checked it during the flight test for start of
movement. What can be a complicating factor is the motor mounts. I made
a change in my thrust angle and found that my engine did not as smoothly
at midrange. I checked the plugs for similar burn and checked the
needles. I finally realized that the spacer I put behind my upper left
motor mount caused that carb to be a little ahead of the right carb.
Readjusting the cable restored the performance. As the original post
notes full power is fine because both carbs are at their stops midrange
depends on the cables. I am thinking of making a velocity sensor that
could be mounted on the carbs so they could to check under load with the
mounds deformed , but that is still a thought in progress. The root
problem seem to be the throttle design for the dual carbs, if there is
plenty of slack in the cables engine movement won't be a factor, but I
know on mine it is.
Tim Shankland
Crvsecretary@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Brandon:
>
> Maybe not a synch problem, but a mixture problem......
>
> Between 3/4 throttle and WOT, the slides on the Bings are all the way
> up, pulling the needles (virtually) completely out of the main jets.
> Engine runs well. BUT, turning downwind the throttle closes and the
> needles drop into the main jets and now the mixture is controlled by
> the taper of the needle. There are many different needles available
> with different tapers, but let's assume the needle is correct. The
> needle is held in place by a clip installed in the slide, and there
> are usually three or four different grooves machined into the
> needle. Installing the needle on the groove nearest the END of the
> needle puts the needle further INTO the main jet for a given position
> of the slide, so the mixture is lean. The groove furthest AWAY from
> the end of the needle pulls the needle OUT of the main jet for a given
> position of the slide, so the mixture is rich.
>
> I'd look at this first. It's easy to check, just handle the
> diaphragms VERY carefully while pulling the top of the carb
> off. He'll have to resynch anyway if the throttle adjustments are
> tampered with as the top comes off.....
>
> Good luck.
>
> Tracy Smith
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> In a message dated 2/19/2007 12:06:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> btucke73@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> Gents,
>
> I got a call from an HDS builder not too far from
> me who is having problems with his Stratus. I fly
> with a Corvair, so I am not much help. His engine
> runs great on climb out, but when he throttles back on
> downwind, it runs very poorly. I have a hunch that is
> is a sync problem between his dual bing carbs, but I
> am not a Subaru guy... I will relay any
> troubleshooting tips any of you may have.
>
> VR/
>
> Brandon Tucker
> 601 HDS / TD / Corvair
> 70 hours
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
Need some advice here.
There is not enough distance depth-wise across the narrow trailing edge of my flaps
to allow for two rivets to fit butt-to-butt.
One rivet is to be installed from the top skin of the flap. The other rivet is
to be installed from the bottom skin of the flap. The problem is that the holes
(factory drilled) in the top skin line up perfectly with the holes on the
bottom skin.
Installation of a rivet in either the top side or the bottom does not allow enough
space for installation of the rivet on the opposite side.
Hence my question: is there such a thing as a "half deep" rivet?
Ideas...?
- Patrick
601XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'169#96169
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
I assume you've test pulled a rivet in a piece of aluminum of the same thickness
to determine what the final length will be.
Also, I believe A5's are called for but you could probably use a A4 which wouldn't
be as long.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'177#96177
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
John,
You freakin' kill me... And you beat me to the
punch...
VR/
Brandon
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
70 hours - a few of them with two 200+ lb fat asses on board.
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
Great ideas. Thank you!
Here's what I did - hope it helps the next guy who reads this:
I installed A4 rivets on the line at the trailing edge of the flap. Did the ones
on the top skin first to present a better "fit & finish", and then set the
bottom ones in place "crooked". The A4's are slightly shorter than the A5's,
and where there simply was not enough room for A5's, there was enough room for
A4's if the A4's were slanted over to one side in the larger A5 holes.
As the rivet gun pulled the A4's, they straightened out as their length decreased,
and they ended up flush.
- Patrick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'187#96187
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
The last rivets in the top and bottom of the flap
skins are offset a few mm. Although this doesn't help
much if you've already drilled the holes I guess....
--- PatrickW <pwhoyt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> <pwhoyt@yahoo.com>
>
> Need some advice here.
>
> There is not enough distance depth-wise across the
> narrow trailing edge of my flaps to allow for two
> rivets to fit butt-to-butt.
>
> One rivet is to be installed from the top skin of
> the flap. The other rivet is to be installed from
> the bottom skin of the flap. The problem is that
> the holes (factory drilled) in the top skin line up
> perfectly with the holes on the bottom skin.
>
> Installation of a rivet in either the top side or
> the bottom does not allow enough space for
> installation of the rivet on the opposite side.
>
> Hence my question: is there such a thing as a "half
> deep" rivet?
>
> Ideas...?
>
> - Patrick
>
> 601XL/Corvair
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'169#96169
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
Message 41
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At 12:58 AM 2/17/2007, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any information on the construction of the longer
>wing??
Hi John and list,
I don't know how the European long wing for the 701 is made, but I have a
sketch from Chris H in answer to my request to stretch each wing by one
foot. His note says: "To retain full strength the web doubler 7V2-6SP
should be T = .040 ( instead of .032) and longer."
The sketch shows the web doubler made longer by a minimum of 160 mm.( 80
mm inboard and 80 mm outboard.) The top outboard corner has an AN3 bolt
with an AD-4 rivet inboard of it on the 80mm extension. There are also two
AD-4 rivets on each of the other three corners of the new web doubler.
My sketch is several years old and I'm sure that Zenith has done work on
the new CH750 since then so they should have better and more complete
information now. My advice would be to contact Zenith and request approval
and advice on the mod you are considering.
Chris's note doesn't address the details of adding a foot to each wing .
If I do the mod, my plan is to rebuild the wings from the last rib on out
and I'll add a rib.
My situation is that my field elevation is 4000 ft. and I'd like to operate
at altitudes that approach the service ceiling of the 701. My power is an
old A80-8 Continental which is also anemic at high altitudes. I think the
extra wing area will help so I'm seriously considering the mod.
If you've got lots of horses up front or are operating at lower altitudes,
I'm not sure that the mod makes sense as the 701 seems to be a well
balanced airplane as it is.
The down side to any mod , of course , is that you'll add weight and much
time to the project and you'll be the test pilot on the prototype, so you
won't have the safety cushion that you get from a proven design with lots
of safe hours.
Please let me know what you decide to do.
Good Luck!
Dave, 701 with A80-8 Continental
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