Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:46 AM - Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl (alex_001)
2. 03:44 AM - Fw: THE NEW BENZ (Richard Cottingham)
3. 06:19 AM - Aileron trim for a CH701 (mcolbeck)
4. 06:50 AM - Re: wing attachment /cables (mike honer)
5. 07:18 AM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (ashontz)
6. 08:07 AM - Re: Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl (Tim Juhl)
7. 08:29 AM - Re: Rivet Gun (Brian Peterson)
8. 08:29 AM - Re: test pilot (Tim Juhl)
9. 08:53 AM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (Gig Giacona)
10. 08:57 AM - Re: THE NEW BENZ (Gig Giacona)
11. 08:59 AM - Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? (Gig Giacona)
12. 09:07 AM - Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update (DaveG601XL)
13. 09:38 AM - Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant (Dan)
14. 10:52 AM - Re: Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl (Craig Payne)
15. 10:53 AM - Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update (Ron Lendon)
16. 12:48 PM - 3300 Exhaust (aprazer)
17. 12:54 PM - Parking brake (aprazer)
18. 01:07 PM - Re: 3300 Exhaust (Bryan Martin)
19. 01:41 PM - Re: 3300 Exhaust (japhillipsga@aol.com)
20. 01:54 PM - Re: Parking brake (japhillipsga@aol.com)
21. 01:57 PM - Re: 3300 Exhaust (LarryMcFarland)
22. 02:15 PM - Re: 3300 Exhaust (T. Graziano)
23. 02:28 PM - Re: 3300 Exhaust (n801bh@netzero.com)
24. 03:05 PM - Re: Parking brake (Craig Payne)
25. 03:33 PM - Re:Diesel Zenith (MaxNr@aol.com)
26. 03:41 PM - Strobes, part II (Bill Naumuk)
27. 04:12 PM - Re: Prospective 701 flyer - Performance questions (StolBrit)
28. 04:46 PM - Re: Strobes, part II (Jaybannist@cs.com)
29. 04:51 PM - Re: Parking brake (Robin Bellach)
30. 04:57 PM - Re: 3300 Exhaust (Noel Loveys)
31. 05:38 PM - Re: Re: Diesel Zenith (James Ferris)
32. 05:39 PM - Re: Strobes, part II (Tim Juhl)
33. 08:15 PM - Aluminum sheet. (Dave Ruddiman)
34. 09:57 PM - Thank You Mark Townsend! (David Thompson)
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| Subject: | Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl |
Hello,
we have found a new Navaid AP1 when we cleared out an avionic shop but i look for
some HELP
Can anyone help me with a wiring diagram for the 12pin electrical socket ?
also would be thankfull for some pics for the installation for the servo
Thanks allready now
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'220#96220
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| Subject: | Fw: THE NEW BENZ |
MessageOff topic Some might not have seen this.
Regards
do not archive
Subject: FW: THE NEW BENZ
COOOOOL !!!
The new Benz - Very different....really different ! ...SCROLL DOWN...
This is the new Mercedes Benz SCL600.
This car is really different.
That's not what is different about it.
That either.
.....and now for the 'really different' part:
Here is what is different.
No steering wheel, you drive it with a joystick. No pedals either.
Can you drive with a joystick? Your kids and grandkids probably can.
The influence of video games in our lives has really arrived, wouldn't
ya say?
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| Subject: | Aileron trim for a CH701 |
Can Aileron trim for a CH701 be done when equipped with flaperons? And if so is
there a special type and installation that I will require for flaperons?
--------
CH701 Builder and new flyer
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'243#96243
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| Subject: | Re: wing attachment /cables |
John, what I decided to do was to put the fairleads on the outside of the
fuselage, mounted with #10 fasteners. Remove the fairlead, unscrew the cable
by turning the adjusting barrel, and pulling the cable and end-piece
assembly thru the big hole in the fuse.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "john butterfield" <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: wing attachment /cables
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
>
> i am going to put my wing control cables in, and am
> wondering how you can take the wings off later and
> disconnect the wing cables. it seems that after you
> put it together, the cables cannot be easily
> disconnected for trailer transport. after i get them
> adjusted, i have to move the airplane by trailer to an
> acceptable airport for the 40 hour flyoff. it seems
> that a quick disconnect at the wing roots would solve
> this problem. any suggestions.
> john butterfield
> 601XL, corvair
> torrance, ca
>
>
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
Jason wrote:
> Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant wouldn't
mind sharing some of your plane specifications? I have been reading gobs about
the engine and the plane and it seems like a pretty good fit to me, but I keep
having one nagging problem and since I don't actually have a plane or any real
experience, I was hoping that some of you might share.
>
> I was curious what the useful load of a Corvair powered 601XL was?
>
> With a full tank, using the Lycoming O-235 as a comparable engine of approximatly
the same weight (from the XL specifications page), I'm basically getting
that the max take off weight is about 375lbs(useful load w/ full tank).
>
> This is important to me because my father and I are not small people, we both
are over 200lbs and even our most optimal and healthy weight would still have
us both over 200lbs. Can anyone speak to this from actual real first hand knowledge?
>
> Any feedback greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason
>
> PS: My calculations were based on 24 gallons of fuel on the XL weighing 145lbs.
520-145 = 375lbs avaliable for two passengers.
I think you'll find the new gross weight of the XL can be up to 1320 and still
be sport pilot. Don't quote me though. I've seen people report and loaded XL with
a Corvair weighing in at 735lbs giving, 1320 - 735 = 585 useful load. 585
- 145 = 440 means two 220lb people. I'd guess the that 735 may even be a bit high
too. Depends on how many radios and whatnot you have in the thing. You could
always go with 3/4 filled tanks too. How often will you be flying with your
Dad? You could always look into the CH640. I believe that can even be built from
plans. Don't know how heavy an engine that takes but I'd guess and Chevy small
block v-6 conversion would fit confortably on that puppy and easily give
you 180hp without stressing the engine. There's some good auto engine conversion
books out there that feature the chevy v-6. I wouldn't put one on an XL though.
The Corvair seems ideal for the XL.
Personally, I don't trust the high revving engines. Seems like too much stress and heat, plus they sound whacky. They don't sound like a real plane at all. Check out Scott Laughlin's videos of his Corvair running. Sounds awesome. www.cookinwithgas.com. I also don't trust the reduction belt drives on the Rotaxes. Ever have a timig belt go in a car? Same deal, except you can't pull over. Belts are great concepts for motorcycle drives, not for planes. Just more complications and things to go wrong. The idea behind an airplane engine is to be light, low-stress, simple, and reliable. And they're more reliable when they're simple. I have an 21 year 140hp outboard on my boat. Always runs. Simple design. I see more people with newer more complex engines broken down than Ive had problems myself. Same with airplane engines.
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'261#96261
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| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl |
Alex,
Did you contact the folks at Navaid? http://www.navaid-devices.com/
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
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You can send the HF rivet gun heads to Zenith and they'll machine the cups
for $11.99 I think.
On 2/15/07, Mike O'Connor <mjoconn@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> Time: 09:46:49 PM PST US
> From: Rodney Mills <Ramills@charter.net>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Rivet Gun
>
> Does the HF rivet puller come with the appropriately cupped socket to form
> the head of the rivet? Does it support the different rivet sizes used on the
> XL kit?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
> ** **
> *Listers,
> I purchased the rivet gun from Zenith and have used it to build with up
> to now. I have always had trouble with the recoil and creating smiley's
> even with pressure set as low as possible and flow controls being used.
> I recently purchased the gun from Harbor Freight and tried it today
> installing wing skins. This gun has very little or no recoil, no bounce
> and not a smiley on the entire skin. The Harbor Freight gun is not as
> comfortable to use and the air line is in an awkward position but the
> results in my case were far superior to my Zenith supplied gun. I will
> be buying another one of the Harbor Freight guns. If anyone is
> interested they are in the current sale catalog for $19.99. What a deal
> , What a deal. Just thought if anyone was looking for their first gun
> or a spare this is worth looking at. I paid over $70 for Zenith gun and
> would not buy again. Inquiring minds may want to know.
>
> Rodney Mills
> Northport, Al
> 601XL/ Corvair
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Brian Peterson
brian@epetersons.com
Message 8
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I've been giving your question some more thought. As far as handling characteristics
I suspect a Piper Cherokee or Tomahawk, Beech Skipper or Grumman TR2 (Yankee)
would have similar "feel" but I'm more concerned with control placement.
Depending upon your experience, if your flying has consisted almost exclusively
of flying yoke equipped aircraft and you are going with the center stick then
you will be switching not only control types but hands as well. A stick is pretty
intuitive but your first test flight is a poor time to first experience
it. Same with flying with your right hand. As a CFI I've been fortunate to fly
a bunch of aircraft from right or left, front or back, yoke or stick, so I feel
pretty confident. If you are not sure about your own capabilities I would
recommend time in a Zodiac, even if you have to buy an airline ticket to get to
where one is available. Do it with an instructor so you can fly from the left
seat. Save money and combine it with your flight review.
As far as building your comfort level in an XL, I'd recommend an hour doing airwork
(turns, slow-flight, stalls, ground reference maneuvers, etc.) to get a "feel"
then shoot a few landings. You'll be amazed at how much difference it makes
compared to simply climbing in and trying to do pattern work.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
Jason, I don't know where you are located but if east central Fla is not to far
away go by William Wynne's place. I'll bet you could talk him into a flight.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'285#96285
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| Subject: | Re: THE NEW BENZ |
You do realize that not a one of those links is valid.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
[quote="Richard C"]Off topic Some might not have seen this.
Regards
do not archive
Subject: FW: THE NEW BENZ
COOOOOL !!!
The new Benz - Very different....really different ! ...SCROLL DOWN...
[img]cid:00b601c750f2$13a16340$0200a8c0@arthurpc[/img]
This is the new Mercedes Benz SCL600.
This car is really different.
[img]cid:00b701c750f2$13a16340$0200a8c0@arthurpc[/img]
That's not what is different about it.
[img]cid:00b801c750f2$13a16340$0200a8c0@arthurpc[/img]
That either.
[img]cid:00b901c750f2$13a16340$0200a8c0@arthurpc[/img]
.....and now for the 'really different' part:
[img]cid:00ba01c750f2$13a16340$0200a8c0@arthurpc[/img]
Here is what is different.
[img]cid:00bb01c750f2$13a16340$0200a8c0@arthurpc[/img]
No steering wheel, you drive it with a joystick. No pedals either.
Can you drive with a joystick? Your kids and grandkids probably can.
The influence of video games in our lives has really arrived, wouldn't ya say?
This message and any attached files may contain information
that is confidential and/or subject of legal privilege intended only for
use by the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient
or the person responsible for delivering the message to the intended recipient,
be advised that you have received this message in error and that
any dissemination, copying or use of this message or attachment is strictly
forbidden, as is the disclosure of the information therein. If
you have received this message in error please notify the sender immediately
and delete the message.
removed their emails.
Try SPAMfighter (http://www.spamfighter.com/len) for free now!
> [b]
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'288#96288
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| Subject: | Re: "Half Deep" Rivets...? |
a 3 or 4 mm offset will do it.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'289#96289
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| Subject: | Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update |
I have already drilled and cut the flap plates to the location and dimensions on
the drawing. Does anybody who already fitted the flaps and flap controls have
any comments on the issues they had here? I am guessing that their input to
ZAC led to this change. Should I go ahead and buy some more nylon material
before I get to this point and find it doesn't fit right? Just wondering.
Thanks
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'294#96294
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant |
It won't change to cast iron on it's own, it has to be sprinkled with
castonium flakes, unfortunately it has some adverse side effects such as
changing into a V-8.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: John Bolding
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 XL w/ Corvair PowerPlant
After reading Paul's posting on cast iron Corvairs I got real scared
and ran out to the hanger to put a magnet on the Corvair block I'm
building up with alum cyls. WHEW !!! It had NOT changed into cast
iron overnight, it was STILL aluminum. Glad all that work and money to
build a lightweight, CHEAP, 100 hp engine had not been destroyed.
I put a cover over it thou so any of those cast iron gremlins roaming
around wouldn't find it and convert it . I've learned some new stuff
today!!
LOW&SLOW John
<p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Jason,
I can't give you the information you ask, but perhaps I can help a
little.
If you find the corvair engine is too heavy for your use, I suggest
you consider using either a Rotax or Jabiru engine. I believe each
of these choices is considerably lighter than any cast iron block
engine.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage (Jabiru 3300 on order)
do not archive
At 01:41 PM 2/19/2007, you wrote:
>
>Was hoping some of you 601 XL builders using the Corvair powerplant
>wouldn't mind sharing some of your plane specifications? I have
>been reading gobs about the engine and the plane and it seems like
a
>pretty good fit to me, but I keep having one nagging problem and
>since I don't actually have a plane or any real experience, I was
>hoping that some of you might share.
>
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| Subject: | Navaid AP1 Autopilot for 601xl |
There are some pictures of various AP servos installed in 601's in the file
archive:
www.matronics.com/photoshare/craig@craigandjean.com.02.11.2006/
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Yet another photo assembly guide update |
Thanks for the update Larry,
David Gallagher, I'm in the same position as you. I plan on drilling the pin hole
in the control arm after fitting the wing/flaps. That should make it all
line up.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
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Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered wrapping the
exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for
50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'329#96329
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Ladies and Gents,
I have purchased a Matco parking brake valve and now I am wondering where to install
it, so that it will be convenient, but unsightly. Also, what kind of handle
works best? Can anyone supply me with this info and possibly pictures?
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'331#96331
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| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
I wrapped my exhaust system and haven't had any trouble with it in
180 flight hours. That price is cheaper than J. C. Whitney's.
>
> Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have
> approximately 1/4 inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe.
> I have considered wrapping the exhaust pipe with the insulating
> wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for 50' 2" roll or trimming
> the cowling, which could be unsightly.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
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| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
Mack, exactly where is the pipe close to the cowl and how much pipe ? If it is
at a bend and only a small portion is near it it may not be a problem. Also, inside
the cowl a bunch of air is pulling though to the bottom exit real fast and
my ground and flight tests of inside cowl tempts were very reasonable. Up on
the firewall at the rectifier, with the air temperature on the ground of 100
degrees, at 3500 feet and 135 mph the max temperature was 123 degrees on my digital
meter. On the ground after the flight during taxi it went down to 93 degrees
which was 7 degrees cooler than the outside temperature. Weird huh ? Even
in hot Georgia summertime. Before doing any cowl cutting I would suggest you
do more checking. The distance of 1/4 inch you speak of is about the distance
I have on my bottom end where the pipes exit the cowl and I have seen no heat
marks. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: aprazer@cableone.net
Sent: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 3:47 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 3300 Exhaust
Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered wrapping the
exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for 50'
2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'329#96329
________________________________________________________________________
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| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
Mack, again, I built my XL with only left side brakes and no parking break valve.
At the annual teardown I added brakes on the right side and the Matco parking
break valve. Best mods I have made to date and wish I had installed them in
building as you are. Working standing on my head was a real pain!!. I mounted
the valve in the center of the plane on top of the heal pan. I made a bracket
for a pull cable and ran the knob under the dash at the far left out of the way
for entry. Works great and it should be a standard part on the XL. I wish I
had some photos to send you as I'm proud of how well it came out. You are welcome
to come see it anytime your nearby. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: aprazer@cableone.net
Sent: Tue, 20 Feb 2007 3:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Parking brake
Ladies and Gents,
I have purchased a Matco parking brake valve and now I am wondering where to
install it, so that it will be convenient, but unsightly. Also, what kind of
handle works best? Can anyone supply me with this info and possibly pictures?
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'331#96331
________________________________________________________________________
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| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
Hi Mack,
You have two options, one of making an adaptive bump in your lower cowl
which can look good.
Or the cowl can be trimmed out and an extension of aluminum that will
withstand the temps better.
I've done both of these progressing from the first to the second option
and also have wrapped my
stainless exhaust with the belting. It can be neatly done and not foul
your sensitivities or prevent you
from putting in EGT sensors. See the following links from my cowl page
and engine page.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/formnmold.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/matoverlay.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/lowercowl1.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowlfairingsinside.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/subaruengine/full/exhaustwrapsilver.gif
Neither of these are hard to do.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmahine.com
aprazer wrote:
>
> Ladies and Gents,
> Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered wrapping
the exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43
for 50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Mack
> 601XL in final stages
>
> --------
> The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
Mack,I do not know what the clearance is on mine, but it is close. I
hope to be enjoying the sky tomorrow and will look; however, Ishould
think that the temps near the end of the exhaust pipes would notbe too
high with the 1/4 inch clearance to cause any heat distortion,especially
considering the airflow in the area. I would definitely not trim
cowling lip, as that helps to create the low pressure for cowling
airflowfor cooling the cylinders.Tony GrazianoXL/Jab3300A N493TG 209 hrs
------Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have
approximately 1/4
inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have considered
wrapping the
exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43
for
50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 3300 Exhaust |
What part of Idaho are ya in??. if you are in the east side, I am in Jac
kson Hole and have extra ceramic header wrap that I use on my beast. Con
tact me off list if ya need a little to shield your cowling.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "aprazer" <aprazer@cableone.net> wrote:
Ladies and Gents,
Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have approximate
ly 1/4 inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust pipe. I have consider
ed wrapping the exhaust pipe with the insulating wrap that Aircraft Spru
ce sells for $43 for 50' 2" roll or trimming the cowling, which could be
unsightly.
Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mack
601XL in final stages
--------
The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=96329#96329
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P>What part of Idaho are ya in??. if you are in the east side, I
am in Jackson Hole and have extra ceramic header wrap that I use on
my beast. Contact me off list if ya need a little to shield your cowlin
g.</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "aprazer" <aprazer@cableone.net> wro
te:<BR>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "a
prazer" <aprazer@cableone.net><BR><BR>Ladies and Ge
nts,<BR>Looking for a solution as what to&
nbsp;do with my cowling. I have approximat
ely 1/4 inch between the fiberglass and&nb
sp;the exhaust pipe. I have considered wra
pping the exhaust pipe with the insulating
wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for
$43 for 50' 2" roll or trimming the&n
bsp;cowling, which could be unsightly.<BR>Any a
nd all suggestions will be greatly appreci
ated.<BR>Thanks,<BR>Mack <BR>601XL in final stages<B
R><BR>--------<BR>The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy fro
m Idaho<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>Read this topic online&nb
sp;here:<BR><BR>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=96329#9632
========================
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p;the Matronics List Features Navigator to 
;Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat,&nbs
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sp; &nb
ame great content now also available via&n
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/html>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 24
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I've attached pictures of how the valve is installed in Bob Archibald's
601XL at Dragonfly Aviation. Note that his plane has pilot and copilot brake
pedals.
Also look at the link below for how the valve was installed in an RV-7.
There are links to the Matco diagrams and some of the fittings which make
for a cleaner installation. For a knob I just bought one of Spruce's cheaper
push/pull cables.
www.rvproject.com/20030521.html
-- Craig
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re:Diesel Zenith |
There is another A/C Diesel on the market. This company is in Great Britian
and is shipping their 100 hp. They have flown it in a Pietenpol. There are also
instalations in Thorp T-211 and Europa. I got a price some months ago for >
$20K.
www.wilksch.com
Also found (and misplaced) a recent letter from FAA re: type cerification of
diesels. You have to disable a cylinder during tests, then see if the vibs
don't break the motor mount.
Bob Dingley
601XL(Lyc)
**************************************
Check out free AOL at
security tools, millions of free high-quality videos from across the web, free
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Strobes, part II |
Bryan-
Yeah, they're pretty much in a completed airframe. My outboards are
all wired for standard postion lights since I figured on just a belly
strobe from the get-go. (re: earlier posting on my relief at not having
to re-do my pitot tube for a Dynon EFIS.) I'm just trying to think far
enough ahead to make the job as easy as possible.
Cut to the chase. My rear fuse is in the stage where I have as much
access as I'll ever have, but not for long. I'm going with the belly
strobe alone. Three questions:
1. Do I need any additional bracing?
2. Should I install the strobe unit before attaching the rear fuse
top skin, or is access no big deal?
3. What's the best bang for the buck for a new belly strobe unit and
power pack?
All input appreciated.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Martin
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 7:56 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Strobes
the wingtips are probably the most convenient place to mount them
unless you are retrofitting them into an already completed airframe.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Prospective 701 flyer - Performance questions |
Many Thanks to Dick, Max and Dan who have already replied direct by email reporting
the experience of themselves and colleagues.
Standard 20 USG tanks Standard is good (up to 5hrs endurance and 400 miles), unless
fuel availability en route is an issue.
Rotax 80 v 100hp Seems that the 80hp Rotax is 'more than adequate' for landplane
T/O, but the 100hp can add up to 15mph to the cruise (and the relatively slow
cruise is the 701's only real downside - but you can't have it all). So, 80hp
= 85mph and 100hp = 100mph cruise then.
BRS STOL performance and strength say its not required, but why would you not fit
it?
This summary does not do justice to their emails and the words are mine. I'll
be back here when a new route for a UK QBK becomes possible again following the
termination of the CZAW arrangement with Zenair last summer - and this seems
partly tied up with EASA's resolution of European LSA rules ...
In the meantime, I'll keep reading the boards - and plan for a 80hp rotax with
standard tanks and a BRS! (Oh and a Dynon panel!)
... unless of course anyone else wants to re-open the debate!
Good building and flying - Regards,
John
[/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'379#96379
Message 28
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| Subject: | Strobes, part II |
Bill, Access depends a lot on whether you have the bottom access panel or not.
The rear & middle top skins can't be installed until you have installed the
baggage floor. Once that baggage floor and top rear skin are installed, the only
access to the bottom of the fuselage behind the seats is through the openings
behind the seats or through the large bottom access door. Either option requires
some contortion, but you should be used to that by now.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
>Bryan-
> Yeah, they're pretty much in a completed airframe. My outboards are all wired
for standard postion lights since I figured on just a belly strobe from the
get-go. (re: earlier posting on my relief at not having to re-do my pitot tube
for a Dynon EFIS.) I'm just trying to think far enough ahead to make the job
as easy as possible.
> Cut to the chase. My rear fuse is in the stage where I have as much access
as I'll ever have, but not for long. I'm going with the belly strobe alone. Three
questions:
> 1. Do I need any additional bracing?
> 2. Should I install the strobe unit before attaching the rear fuse top skin,
or is access no big deal?
> 3. What's the best bang for the buck for a new belly strobe unit and power
pack?
> All input appreciated.
> do not archive
>
>Bill Naumuk
>HDS Fuselage
>Townville, Pa
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Parking brake |
I put mine just left of center about 11" up on the firewall, and fabricated
a bracket several inches above it for a control cable to the insrument
panel.
Robin in AR
N601ZV
----- Original Message -----
From: "aprazer" <aprazer@cableone.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 2:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Parking brake
>
> Ladies and Gents,
> I have purchased a Matco parking brake valve and now I am wondering where
> to install it, so that it will be convenient, but unsightly. Also, what
> kind of handle works best? Can anyone supply me with this info and
> possibly pictures?
> Thanks,
> Mack
> 601XL in final stages
>
> --------
> The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'331#96331
>
>
>
Message 30
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Install the wrap and...put a reflective heat shield of heavy BBQ type foil
inside the cowl. Try it for a circuit and then check the temp on the cowl.
Make sure there is no direct contact of the inside of the cowl with the hot
exhaust pipe.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of aprazer
> Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 5:17 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: 3300 Exhaust
>
>
>
> Ladies and Gents,
> Looking for a solution as what to do with my cowling. I have
> approximately 1/4 inch between the fiberglass and the exhaust
> pipe. I have considered wrapping the exhaust pipe with the
> insulating wrap that Aircraft Spruce sells for $43 for 50' 2"
> roll or trimming the cowling, which could be unsightly.
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Mack
> 601XL in final stages
>
> --------
> The poh-oh-unemployed farm boy from Idaho
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'329#96329
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 - 9.061.014).
> http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Diesel Zenith |
It is true that the old diesels were hard to start,
but since 1978 at least when i had a vw diesel it was
easy to start in cold weather, it had glow plugs and
just heat them for about 20 seconds and it would start
right up. It is interesting that almost all of the
truck engines are Detroit Diesels and eve the
catapiler uses Detropt Diesel parts. The General
motors Diesels were two stroke and had a blower and
they also make the locomotive engines that are two
stoke but too big for us (100 Hp/cylinder and twelve
and sixteen cylinders.
Jim
--- Noel Loveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> No... There is more power (BTU) in a pound of Diesel
> than there is in a
> pound of Gasoline It also is not as volatile. One
> down side could be that
> diesels are notoriously hard to start in cold
> weather. They do need good
> size starters and probably heavy batteries.
>
>
>
> Noel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Craig Payne
> Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 6:44 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Diesel Zenith
>
>
> > Don't forget about the fuel efficiency.... you
> won't have to carry as
> much fuel either. Also no plugs to foul and no
> mixture to worry about!
>
> Somewhere it was pointed out that although Diesel
> engines get better miles
> per gallon they get about the same miles per pound
> of fuel. True?
>
> -- Craig
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (3.1.0.10 -
> 9.061.014).
> http://www.pctools.com/anti-virus/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Strobes, part II |
The type of belly strobe I had went into a ring that was bolted or riveted to the
skin. A stiffener wouldn't hurt (unless it is really light) but at the very
least I would mount it close to a cross member.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p'398#96398
Message 33
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I know this has been gone over before, but where is a good place to buy
.025 sheeting for a belly skin.
Dave in Salem
Message 34
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| Subject: | Thank You Mark Townsend! |
List,
I want to publicly thank Mark Townsend.
I had basically given up the idea of building. I could not foresee being
able to afford purchasing a kit in the near future. I kept reading this
list because I couldn't get rid of the bug to build.
Several weeks ago I sent a post saying that I was going to be in Toronto for
three weeks. I asked if anyone was up there and if I could come by to see
their project. Mark was the only one to give me an invite.
Mark invited me over to his house to spend the weekend. Before I had
arrived, I had watched the Homebuilt help, scratch building video that he
stared in and studied my plans. When I arrived, he put me to work. After two
days, I had scratch built the skeleton for my horizontal stab. He graciously
gave me the materials from his extensive scrap pile. During the build, He
showed me how to analyze what was a minor, livable mistake and what required
a total rebuild. Throughout the build he also showed me many tricks and
techniques. I now have the skill and knowledge to move ahead and continue to
scratch build. My wife has even given me the go-ahead after I re-stain the
deck & gazebo. :)
I can't thank Mark enough for putting me in a position to live my life long
dream of building my own aircraft.
I truly enjoyed spending the time with Mark. He and his wife are wonderful
people. I'm just sad that we live so far apart. I look forward to seeing him
again at Sun & Fun (I promised him that I'd flip some burgers for him at the
BBQ).
If you ever get a chance to meet Mark, Do it! He is one of the friendliest
and generous men that I have ever met.
Thank you Mark,
Dave Thompson
Westminster, CA
601XL Scratch build
Corvair in parts, Rudder workshop & stab skeleton, Rolls of aluminum on
order
Do not archive
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