Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:00 AM - LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup) (Scott Laughlin)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Strapping the Stab (William Dominguez)
3. 06:06 AM - Re: Strapping the Stab (paul baker)
4. 06:06 AM - Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas (Tom Lutz)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup) (Dave Ruddiman)
6. 07:02 AM - Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas (John Bolding)
7. 08:01 AM - Bob Bushby (wade jones)
8. 08:38 AM - Re: LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup) (Randy L. Thwing)
9. 09:48 AM - Re: Bob Bushby (Jim Hoak)
10. 09:55 AM - Rib forms (jhines)
11. 10:13 AM - Zenith's Annoying Documentation (Hays Jeff)
12. 10:43 AM - Zenith's Annoying Documentation (Robin Bellach)
13. 10:57 AM - Re: Zenith's Annoying Documentation (Charles Wacker)
14. 11:45 AM - Re: Zenith's Annoying Documentation (Dave Ruddiman)
15. 11:45 AM - Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas (MacDonald Doug)
16. 12:36 PM - Oshkosh Area Zenith Builders/Owners ()
17. 01:05 PM - Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas (Jim Hoak)
18. 01:59 PM - Re: XL Center console (eddies)
19. 02:25 PM - Re: Rib forms (jhines)
20. 02:42 PM - Cowl hinge wires (was XL Center console) (Craig Payne)
21. 02:53 PM - LRI, yes (Big Gee)
22. 03:01 PM - Re: Zenith's Annoying Documentation (Gig Giacona)
23. 04:36 PM - Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas (n801bh@netzero.com)
24. 04:55 PM - Flap Wiring (Jaybannist@cs.com)
25. 05:19 PM - Re: Re: Rib forms (wade jones)
26. 05:49 PM - Re: Flap Wiring (Edward Moody II)
27. 06:00 PM - Re: Flap Wiring (Craig Payne)
28. 06:01 PM - Re: Re: Rib forms (Craig Payne)
29. 07:08 PM - Re: Flap Wiring (Paul Mulwitz)
30. 07:27 PM - Re:Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas (RURUNY@aol.com)
31. 07:49 PM - LRI / AOA gauge (raymondj)
32. 08:00 PM - Re: LRI / AOA gauge (ZodieRocket)
33. 08:10 PM - Re: LRI / AOA gauge (ZodieRocket)
34. 09:02 PM - Re: LRI / AOA gauge (raymondj)
35. 09:45 PM - Re: LRI / AOA gauge (Craig Payne)
36. 10:16 PM - Re: LRI / AOA gauge (raymondj)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup) |
Dan, thanks for the email to the group about my $50 LRI probe.
I currently have three probes to send out filling my final orders. I
started on a few extras just in case anyone else needs one. Yes, my 601 is
nearing completion so I will be reporting on test flying soon with an email
or two and maybe a video.
While it was too cold in Nebraska to do any polishing (our much of anything
else on the airplane) over the last few months, I've been working on another
machine in my garage that has been a lot of fun. Here's a video of a CNC
milling machine I built. My daughter added the music and helped me with the
video - I'm hoping she helps me with the first flight video as well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgEb_2JweqM
The oven in the background is a freebie from a friend who was re-doing their
kitchen. I bought a powder-coating rig so if anybody wants their LRI probe
powdercoated red, yellow, blue, black or white, let me know. I did my intake
manifold the other day in black and it came out great. Pictures coming
soon.
Take care,
Scott Laughlin
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
CH601XL, N5SL
-----Original Message-----
From: dj45@modempool.com
Sent: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: LRI pickup
Sorry Guys,
I just got off the phone with the machinist and he wants $70 each for the
LRI.
Scott Laughlin (cookingwithgas@hotmail.com)sells them for $50 plus the face
and
instructions. So I guess that would be the way to go.
Scott is trying to get his plane in the air, so maybe it will be awhile
before
he can get too them. If you just can't wait, this guy can do them now.
I got more time than money, If you are short on time let me know.
Dan Stanton
90% done 90% to go
801, Deltahawk Diesel
_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month.
Intro*Terms
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Strapping the Stab |
Ron,
According to my interpretation of the construction manual, rivets don't need
to be perfectly in the center of the flange, as long as it is 3 times the diameter
of the hole (2 times diameter as minimum) away from the edge it is ok
(page 5 in my manual). This means 6 mm minimum distance from the edge. It is
important that the nose of the sking is well aligned with the nose of the end
ribs. Before doing any drilling, you can mark the front spar flange thru the
sking hole with a sharpie and then remove the sking and check the mark distance
to the edge in order to determine how close it is.
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami, Florida
Hi All,
Relative newbie lurker here. I have started my 601XT with kits from Zenith. Rudder
went together fine. I am now on the stab and have what may be a dumb question.
Here goes - the kit comes with alignment holes drilled for the skin. I have attached
the lower side, turned everything over and am ready to close. If I follow
the procedure of using the straps to pull everything into alignment, I quickly
pull the forward flange pre-drilled holes in the skin past the center line
of the flange.
Shouldn't I just line up the holes with the midline I have drawn on the flange,
drill and cleco? Wouldn't that guarantee alignment of the rest of the skin?
What am I misssing here?
Do not archive.
Ron
601XL San Diego
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Not making enough money? Click here to get free info on medical jobs
http://tags.bluebottle.com/fc/CAaCMPJk1mHgOrC1zqUDm2q69eiiqXS2/
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Strapping the Stab |
actua;;y. wrong subject. I purchased a 601-hd last fall,The
engine cover goes on the inside of the fuselage and is hard
to install. I noticed on some of the pictures that now the
cowling goes on the outside. Does anyone have pictures
and details of changing from inside to outside?
Paul baker---58 years flying spam cans
pbaker4@windstream.com
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas |
Hi everyone. I'll start by introducing myself. I'm Tom, from Northern New
Jersey. I'm a private pilot with 100 hours experience and a glider pilot
with 50 or so hours experience. I've never built even a model airplane
before, but consider myself handy.
I just ordered a rudder starter kit along with some tools from Zenithair for
the CH701, and I can't wait to start building so I can determine if it's
within my capabilities to build the entire thing.
As a complete beginner to aircraft construction, I have several questions
that I'm sure many of you have the answers to.
CORROSION PROTECTION:
1) I've learned that zinc-chromate is a carcinogen, and other people have
successfully used zinc oxide. How do you treat the aluminum pieces for
corrosion protection and what do YOU use? Who is your supplier?
2) Should ALL the surfaces be coated if seaplane operations may be in the
foreseeable future? What additional protection needs to be performed on the
rudder kit if this may be an option?
3) Do you have to scrub off any oxidation before protection? What do you
use to clean off the aluminum (I read somewhere that scotch-brite is bad)?
PAINT:
1) Engine first, then paint? What kind of paint, and how does one apply
it? Will I need to take this to a professional or can I spray it myself?
COST OF OWNERSHIP:
1) Since I do not have a high number of hours under my belt, I expect
insurance companies will not want to insure me at a reasonable rate. Anyone
have experience with this?
2) Maintenance - What scheduled maintenance must be performed, and how much
does it cost to overhaul a Rotax 912(S)?
GOTCHAS
1) What kind of "gotcha's" can I expect when building the CH701? They say
hindsight is 20/20....can I borrow your collective hindsights?
Thanks in advance!
Tom L.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup) |
Scott,
I like your video. The music fits very well with this group.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Laughlin" <cookwithgas@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 4:58 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup)
> <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
>
> Dan, thanks for the email to the group about my $50 LRI probe.
>
> I currently have three probes to send out filling my final orders. I
> started on a few extras just in case anyone else needs one. Yes, my 601
> is nearing completion so I will be reporting on test flying soon with an
> email or two and maybe a video.
>
> While it was too cold in Nebraska to do any polishing (our much of
> anything else on the airplane) over the last few months, I've been working
> on another machine in my garage that has been a lot of fun. Here's a
> video of a CNC milling machine I built. My daughter added the music and
> helped me with the video - I'm hoping she helps me with the first flight
> video as well:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgEb_2JweqM
>
> The oven in the background is a freebie from a friend who was re-doing
> their kitchen. I bought a powder-coating rig so if anybody wants their
> LRI probe powdercoated red, yellow, blue, black or white, let me know. I
> did my intake manifold the other day in black and it came out great.
> Pictures coming soon.
>
> Take care,
>
> Scott Laughlin
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
> CH601XL, N5SL
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dj45@modempool.com
> Sent: Mon, 12 Mar 2007 3:01 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: LRI pickup
>
>
> Sorry Guys,
> I just got off the phone with the machinist and he wants $70 each for the
> LRI.
> Scott Laughlin (cookingwithgas@hotmail.com)sells them for $50 plus the
> face and
>
> instructions. So I guess that would be the way to go.
> Scott is trying to get his plane in the air, so maybe it will be awhile
> before
>
> he can get too them. If you just can't wait, this guy can do them now.
> I got more time than money, If you are short on time let me know.
>
> Dan Stanton
> 90% done 90% to go
> 801, Deltahawk Diesel
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a
> month. Intro*Terms
> https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas |
Tom,
There have been MANY posts on corrosion protection in just the past few
months. Please check the archives. It's not a 3 sentence explanation.
If you have any questions on how to provide the best protection for a
seaplane (I'm building a 701 on amphibs that will be used in seawater)
give me a note offlist. LOW&SLOW John ( jnbolding1"at" teleshare"dot"
net)
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:04 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas
CORROSION PROTECTION:
1) I've learned that zinc-chromate is a carcinogen, and other people
have successfully used zinc oxide. How do you treat the aluminum pieces
for corrosion protection and what do YOU use? Who is your supplier?
2) Should ALL the surfaces be coated if seaplane operations may be in
the foreseeable future? What additional protection needs to be
performed on the rudder kit if this may be an option?
3) Do you have to scrub off any oxidation before protection? What do
you use to clean off the aluminum (I read somewhere that scotch-brite is
bad)?
PAINT:
1) Engine first, then paint? What kind of paint, and how does one
apply it? Will I need to take this to a professional or can I spray it
myself?
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hello group ,this is not Zenith related however I thought it worth
passing on .Yesterday my wife and myself had lunch with Bob Bushby and
his lovely wife Sharon.I am sure that most of you know that Bob Bushby
is the designer of the Mustang 2 aircraft .His daughter lives in Texas
close to me and Bob lives in Illinois .We spent some time together last
year at this same time .I feel very honored that he has taken me as a
friend and enjoys my company as much as I enjoy him .We are putting our
heads together along with some old Continental engines I have trying to
adapt an 0-200 rear case to an A65 Cont. engine .Anyone on the site have
a -9 rear case for an A65 engine ,this is different from the -8 and will
accept a starter .Sorry about the non Zenith rambling just wanted all to
know that I am proud to spend some time with Bob Bushby.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: LRI plus new Machine (was LRI pickup) |
>The music fits very well with this group.
Just guessing, is the selection Jethro Tull's: " Thick as a Brick"?
Yuks,
Randy, LV Do Not Archive
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hey Wade,
Re: Bob Bushby
I would have sent this direct if you had included your personal email
address. I hope others on this site will please indulge us.
I built a Midget Mustang I, from plans in 1967 thru 1971. Got to know
Bob Bushby at that time. A little later two friends built a MMI and a
MMII . I got to fly both of them quite a bit along with my MMI. I have
kept in touch with both Bob and Chris and the current Mustang
Aeronautics bunch.
A few years ago, while at Sun n Fun, I invited Bob to stop by and visit
me at the small airport where I live south of Atlanta. He did stop in
and would you believe I wasn't here at the time!
Bob has a EAA number in the first 100. I always enjoy visiting with him
too.
Jim Hoak 601HD - Rotax 912UL - 540 hrs.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:00 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Bob Bushby
Hello group ,this is not Zenith related however I thought it worth
passing on .Yesterday my wife and myself had lunch with Bob Bushby and
his lovely wife Sharon.I am sure that most of you know that Bob Bushby
is the designer of the Mustang 2 aircraft .His daughter lives in Texas
close to me and Bob lives in Illinois .We spent some time together last
year at this same time .I feel very honored that he has taken me as a
friend and enjoys my company as much as I enjoy him .We are putting our
heads together along with some old Continental engines I have trying to
adapt an 0-200 rear case to an A65 Cont. engine .Anyone on the site have
a -9 rear case for an A65 engine ,this is different from the -8 and will
accept a starter .Sorry about the non Zenith rambling just wanted all to
know that I am proud to spend some time with Bob Bushby.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Does anyone out there want to sell their old rib forms? I'm having a moment of
lazyness I guess but I just thought I would ask.
John
www.johnsplane.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100505#100505
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Zenith's Annoying Documentation |
Hi -
I've been lurking on the list for a while, I am a current CH801 builder.
This is my second aircraft project, the first was a Kitfox Series 5 powered by
an Continental IO-240B. Which I have been flying for almost 5 years now.
My current, and old projects are on my website http://www.aselia.com which is a project in itself, and not nearly complete.
Anyway, the reason for the post - Is because I am simply aggravated by the quality
of documentation these kitplanes have. This is not unique to Zenith, as Skystar
had terrible manuals as well. With regard to this CH801 there is not a single
part of this project, that I did not have to do some degree of rework, which
was caused by following Zenith's poor directions.
It is certainly possible to figure out how to build these things, and come out
with a decent product. However, the manuals are simply terrible. The procedures
in themselves are flawed, they are poorly described, and the writing quality
as well is poor. In some parts there's a photo showing a part assembled in one
direction, and a diagram showing the part going in completely the opposite
direction (flaperon splice plate for instance)! Now if you look at the updates
doc online, it is notated in there. However the manual is revision date 2001
.... Duh. How hard would that be to fix? 5 minutes in Adobe Acrobat to edit the
file.
I am resigned to the fact that this is simply the way it is, that the planes I
want are designed and kitted by a decent enough guy. But then the Kit business
that evolves around that plane takes on it's own life, and the people who sell
and support the design are neccesarily up to par with the original designer.
Anyway the whole subject is annoying - Do other builders feel the way I do?
Regards,
Jeff
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Zenith's Annoying Documentation |
AGREED!
N601ZV
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hays Jeff" <n85ae@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:12 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Zenith's Annoying Documentation
>
> Hi -
>
> I've been lurking on the list for a while, I am a current CH801 builder.
>
> This is my second aircraft project, the first was a Kitfox Series 5
> powered by an Continental IO-240B. Which I have been flying for almost 5
> years now.
>
> My current, and old projects are on my website http://www.aselia.com which
> is a project in itself, and not nearly complete.
>
> Anyway, the reason for the post - Is because I am simply aggravated by the
> quality of documentation these kitplanes have. This is not unique to
> Zenith, as Skystar had terrible manuals as well. With regard to this CH801
> there is not a single part of this project, that I did not have to do some
> degree of rework, which was caused by following Zenith's poor directions.
>
> It is certainly possible to figure out how to build these things, and come
> out with a decent product. However, the manuals are simply terrible. The
> procedures in themselves are flawed, they are poorly described, and the
> writing quality as well is poor. In some parts there's a photo showing a
> part assembled in one direction, and a diagram showing the part going in
> completely the opposite direction (flaperon splice plate for instance)!
> Now if you look at the updates doc online, it is notated in there. However
> the manual is revision date 2001 .... Duh. How hard would that be to fix?
> 5 minutes in Adobe Acrobat to edit the file.
>
> I am resigned to the fact that this is simply the way it is, that the
> planes I want are designed and kitted by a decent enough guy. But then the
> Kit business that evolves around that plane takes on it's own life, and
> the people who sell and support the design are neccesarily up to par with
> the original designer.
>
> Anyway the whole subject is annoying - Do other builders feel the way I
> do?
>
> Regards,
> Jeff
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Zenith's Annoying Documentation |
I think that it is important to put into perspective what it is that we love
to do first. I enjoy the challenge of build a plane. The manuals are not the
best this is true. In fact if you go by Zenith's suggestion the drawings are
the rulke not the photo manual.
I come from an engineering background and I can tell you one thing for sure,
ENGINEERS WRITE BAD MANUALS. There is a reason for this, they are to close
to the project and they know to much. The result is that they think the user
of the manual knows as much as they do. Manual writting is a science and art
to itself. I had a writter thsat worked for me that as much as the engineers
did and the result was a first class manual that worked for the person who
knew nothing.
As a test of a manual for an new product release we always gave the product
and draft manual to one of the plant works to install and operate the
machine. While we expected some problems from someone who was not fimilar
with the use of the product we were confident that it was pretty complete.
Let's not slam Zenith for doing what engineers do. We can always call them
with questions and they will always, my experience, guide us down the right
path.
Chuck Wacker
N601CW, Quick Build
PS I'm and engineer and cannot spell.
>From: Hays Jeff <n85ae@yahoo.com>
>To: zenith <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: Zenith's Annoying Documentation
>Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 10:12:53 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Hi -
>
>I've been lurking on the list for a while, I am a current CH801 builder.
>
>This is my second aircraft project, the first was a Kitfox Series 5 powered
>by an Continental IO-240B. Which I have been flying for almost 5 years now.
>
>My current, and old projects are on my website http://www.aselia.com which
>is a project in itself, and not nearly complete.
>
>Anyway, the reason for the post - Is because I am simply aggravated by the
>quality of documentation these kitplanes have. This is not unique to
>Zenith, as Skystar had terrible manuals as well. With regard to this CH801
>there is not a single part of this project, that I did not have to do some
>degree of rework, which was caused by following Zenith's poor directions.
>
>It is certainly possible to figure out how to build these things, and come
>out with a decent product. However, the manuals are simply terrible. The
>procedures in themselves are flawed, they are poorly described, and the
>writing quality as well is poor. In some parts there's a photo showing a
>part assembled in one direction, and a diagram showing the part going in
>completely the opposite direction (flaperon splice plate for instance)! Now
>if you look at the updates doc online, it is notated in there. However the
>manual is revision date 2001 .... Duh. How hard would that be to fix? 5
>minutes in Adobe Acrobat to edit the file.
>
>I am resigned to the fact that this is simply the way it is, that the
>planes I want are designed and kitted by a decent enough guy. But then the
>Kit business that evolves around that plane takes on it's own life, and the
>people who sell and support the design are neccesarily up to par with the
>original designer.
>
>Anyway the whole subject is annoying - Do other builders feel the way I do?
>
>Regards,
>Jeff
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month.
Intro*Terms
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Zenith's Annoying Documentation |
Jeff,
I couldn't agree more. I would hate to be a first time builder on the Zenith
products. I know alot of people are, itmust be even more difficult without
any knowledge of aircraft construction. It's not really a fair comparison,
but I have built on Van's airplanes and their kits and plans are excellent.
I try not to compare them but it's hard not to. If someone that can write
good technical manuals would go through the build process and organize it as
it should be it would be much better. Trouble is it all costs money and it's
easier said than done. So, speaking for myself ( one of the other 801
builders ), I will continue on and hope I don't have to buy to many
replacement parts.
Dave in Salem
do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hays Jeff" <n85ae@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:12 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Zenith's Annoying Documentation
>
> Hi -
>
> I've been lurking on the list for a while, I am a current CH801 builder.
>
> This is my second aircraft project, the first was a Kitfox Series 5
> powered by an Continental IO-240B. Which I have been flying for almost 5
> years now.
>
> My current, and old projects are on my website http://www.aselia.com which
> is a project in itself, and not nearly complete.
>
> Anyway, the reason for the post - Is because I am simply aggravated by the
> quality of documentation these kitplanes have. This is not unique to
> Zenith, as Skystar had terrible manuals as well. With regard to this CH801
> there is not a single part of this project, that I did not have to do some
> degree of rework, which was caused by following Zenith's poor directions.
>
> It is certainly possible to figure out how to build these things, and come
> out with a decent product. However, the manuals are simply terrible. The
> procedures in themselves are flawed, they are poorly described, and the
> writing quality as well is poor. In some parts there's a photo showing a
> part assembled in one direction, and a diagram showing the part going in
> completely the opposite direction (flaperon splice plate for instance)!
> Now if you look at the updates doc online, it is notated in there. However
> the manual is revision date 2001 .... Duh. How hard would that be to fix?
> 5 minutes in Adobe Acrobat to edit the file.
>
> I am resigned to the fact that this is simply the way it is, that the
> planes I want are designed and kitted by a decent enough guy. But then the
> Kit business that evolves around that plane takes on it's own life, and
> the people who sell and support the design are neccesarily up to par with
> the original designer.
>
> Anyway the whole subject is annoying - Do other builders feel the way I
> do?
>
> Regards,
> Jeff
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas |
First, welcome to the world of Zenith Aircraft. I am
currently entering the "Systems" stage of building the
fuselage of my CH-701. That means (to me)engine,
controls, electrical, etc.
One great resource you might consider is Jon Croke's
homebuilthelp.com DVD series. He is building his
third CH-701 and has several how too DVDs specifically
related to the assembly and manufacture of these neat
little planes.
As for Gotchas that I have found with mine (I'm
scratch building). I found the skinning of the
elevator to be a bit of a challenge. There is a whole
chapter in the assembly manual on finding the center
of the elevator rib. Problem is they refer to is in a
different way later on in the manual when it comes
time to skin the elevator. I forget the exact terms
but that were used but they mean the same. Use the
same point.
Another great tip I found is when handling the thin
016 skins for the elevator and stab, it works well to
duct tape four or so 1"X3/4" strips of wood the length
of the skin. It adds significant rigidity to the
metal and helps reduce the "smiley" tendency (smileys
are not good in this case). Then when you pull on the
straps to tighten the skin, the forces spread more
evenly and the finished project looks much better.
While it mentions using boards to spread the load in
the manual, I found that by attaching the strips as
soon as you start to work with the skins, they are
much easier to handle.
Hope this information helps with your building. I've
been at it almost a year now. If I'd gone with the
kit I'd likely be flying by now but I would have
missed out on some great experiences.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
do not archive
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oshkosh Area Zenith Builders/Owners |
List,
Not a technical item. I would appreciate Zenith Builders/Owners in the
Oshkosh Wisc. area to contact me directly at planejim@bellsouth.net I have
a personal favor to ask of you. The first names of the two gentlemen I can
remember Al and Ken; those who I have met at AirVenture. Thanks in advance
do not archive
Jim Hoak 601HD - 912UL - 540 hours.
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas |
Tom,
Welcome to the world of Zenith Builders. I built a 601HD ( flying over
10 years and 540 hours ) and am helping a friend with 701 ( on gear,
wings on, starting engine installation ). I'd be glad to share some
builders info and a few precautions with you. Please contact me off site
at planejim@bellsouth.net and I'll email you the info without boring
everyone else.
do not archive
Jim Hoak
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:04 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas
Hi everyone. I'll start by introducing myself. I'm Tom, from
Northern New Jersey. I'm a private pilot with 100 hours experience and
a glider pilot with 50 or so hours experience. I've never built even a
model airplane before, but consider myself handy.
I just ordered a rudder starter kit along with some tools from
Zenithair for the CH701, and I can't wait to start building so I can
determine if it's within my capabilities to build the entire thing.
As a complete beginner to aircraft construction, I have several
questions that I'm sure many of you have the answers to.
CORROSION PROTECTION:
1) I've learned that zinc-chromate is a carcinogen, and other people
have successfully used zinc oxide. How do you treat the aluminum pieces
for corrosion protection and what do YOU use? Who is your supplier?
2) Should ALL the surfaces be coated if seaplane operations may be in
the foreseeable future? What additional protection needs to be
performed on the rudder kit if this may be an option?
3) Do you have to scrub off any oxidation before protection? What do
you use to clean off the aluminum (I read somewhere that scotch-brite is
bad)?
PAINT:
1) Engine first, then paint? What kind of paint, and how does one
apply it? Will I need to take this to a professional or can I spray it
myself?
COST OF OWNERSHIP:
1) Since I do not have a high number of hours under my belt, I expect
insurance companies will not want to insure me at a reasonable rate.
Anyone have experience with this?
2) Maintenance - What scheduled maintenance must be performed, and how
much does it cost to overhaul a Rotax 912(S)?
GOTCHAS
1) What kind of "gotcha's" can I expect when building the CH701? They
say hindsight is 20/20....can I borrow your collective hindsights?
Thanks in advance!
Tom L.
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: XL Center console |
Hi Tim,
Have a look at this link to a picture on my website;
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=eddieseve&project=89&category=0&log=24760&row=40
Regards,
Eddie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100553#100553
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Oops. I forgot to mention that I am building a 601XL.
--------
John Hines
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100558#100558
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cowl hinge wires (was XL Center console) |
Hi Eddie,
I was looking at the great photos of your project on the kitlog site. I see
you are joining the top and bottom halves of the cowl with hinges. How do
you draw the hinge pins out through the front of the cowl? Do the hinges
stop far enough back from the inlets that the wire can bend and pass through
the inlet? Any close-up photos of this area?
-- Craig
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Folks,
With all the talk about the LRI, I did a "google" search (click on link below).
The talk on this site, and the article below have convinced me that I shall install
the LRI system in my airplane.---
www.liftreserve.com/STORY.htm
Thanks to all for bringing this to my attention .
Fritz XL, Corvair, 90/90
---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Zenith's Annoying Documentation |
I'm a first time builder and have done my share of bitching about the manuals.
One thing that helped was when I stopped using the manual that they sent me and
started downloading and printing a section at a time.
I don't know about the 801 manual but the 601 manual is much better now than it
was when I bought my first kit section in 2002.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100569#100569
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas |
I will add my 2 cents worth. If the directions say to use four ratchet s
traps to chinch up the skins you should double that. Four more straps ar
e far cheaper then a new skin or the time to do the process over. That s
preads to load over a smaller area per strap and helps to get a better
finished product. YMMV
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com> wrote:
First, welcome to the world of Zenith Aircraft. I am
currently entering the "Systems" stage of building the
fuselage of my CH-701. That means (to me)engine,
controls, electrical, etc.
One great resource you might consider is Jon Croke's
homebuilthelp.com DVD series. He is building his
third CH-701 and has several how too DVDs specifically
related to the assembly and manufacture of these neat
little planes.
As for Gotchas that I have found with mine (I'm
scratch building). I found the skinning of the
elevator to be a bit of a challenge. There is a whole
chapter in the assembly manual on finding the center
of the elevator rib. Problem is they refer to is in a
different way later on in the manual when it comes
time to skin the elevator. I forget the exact terms
but that were used but they mean the same. Use the
same point.
Another great tip I found is when handling the thin
016 skins for the elevator and stab, it works well to
duct tape four or so 1"X3/4" strips of wood the length
of the skin. It adds significant rigidity to the
metal and helps reduce the "smiley" tendency (smileys
are not good in this case). Then when you pull on the
straps to tighten the skin, the forces spread more
evenly and the finished project looks much better.
While it mentions using boards to spread the load in
the manual, I found that by attaching the strips as
soon as you start to work with the skins, they are
much easier to handle.
Hope this information helps with your building. I've
been at it almost a year now. If I'd gone with the
kit I'd likely be flying by now but I would have
missed out on some great experiences.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
do not archive
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P>I will add my 2 cents worth. If the directions say to use four
ratchet straps to chinch up the skins you should double that. Four more
straps are far cheaper then a new skin or the time to do the process ove
r. That spreads to load over a smaller area per strap and hel
ps to get a better finished product. YMMV</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
wrote:<BR>--> Zenith-List message posted by
: MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com><BR><BR>First
, welcome to the world of Zenith Airc
raft. I am<BR>currently entering the "Sys
tems" stage of building the<BR>fuselage of 
;my CH-701. That means (to me)engine,<BR>
controls, electrical, etc. <BR><BR>One great&n
bsp;resource you might consider is Jon Cro
ke's<BR>homebuilthelp.com DVD series. He is&nb
sp;building his<BR>third CH-701 and has several
how too DVDs specifically<BR>related to t
he assembly and manufacture of these neat<
BR>little planes.<BR><BR>As for Gotchas that I&
nbsp;have found with mine (I'm<BR>scratch build
ing). I found the skinning of the<BR
>elevator to be a bit of a challenge.
There is a whole<BR>chapter in the&
nbsp;assembly manual on finding the center<BR>o
f the elevator rib. Problem is they&
nbsp;refer to is in a<BR>different way lat
er on in the manual when it comes<BR>
time to skin the elevator. I forget&
nbsp;the exact terms<BR>but that were used 
;but they mean the same. Use the<BR>
same point.<BR><BR>Another great tip I found&nb
sp;is when handling the thin<BR>016 skins
for the elevator and stab, it works w
ell to<BR>duct tape four or so 1"X3/4"&nbs
p;strips of wood the length<BR>of the skin
. It adds significant rigidity to th
e<BR>metal and helps reduce the "smiley" t
endency (smileys<BR>are not good in this c
ase). Then when you pull on the<BR>s
traps to tighten the skin, the forces 
;spread more<BR>evenly and the finished project
looks much better. <BR>While it mentions&
nbsp;using boards to spread the load in<BR
>the manual, I found that by attaching&nbs
p;the strips as<BR>soon as you start to&nb
sp;work with the skins, they are<BR>much e
asier to handle.<BR><BR>Hope this information h
elps with your building. I've<BR>been at&
nbsp;it almost a year now. If I'd&nb
sp;gone with the<BR>kit I'd likely be flyi
ng by now but I would have<BR>missed
out on some great experiences.<BR><BR>Doug MacD
onald<BR>CH-701 Scratch Builder<BR>NW Ontario, Canad
a<BR><BR>do not archive<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR> <BR>Bored
stiff? Loosen up... <BR>Download and play
hundreds of games for free on Yahoo!
========================
========================
sp; - The Zenith-List Email Forum&n
utilities such as the Subscriptions page,
========================
========================
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FO
========================
========================
======</P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I am wiring the flap motor for my XL and encountered a problem. The two limit
switches have six connect points. Two are the "COM" points in top. No problem.
The "NO" & "NC" connectors are on the ends of the limit switches, two facing
up and two facing down. All these connecting points have VERY tiny screws
and lockwashers. The schematic in the drawings calls for connections to the "NC"
points, which (naturally) are facing down. One would have to use a tiny,
right angle screwdriver to work the screws because the actuator rod and screw
would be in the way of a straight screwdriver; and a mirror to see what you are
doing. Looked virtually impossible to me. I asked Roger at ZAC how to do this
and his solution was to remove the whole flap actuator to wire it! HUH?
Since the "NO" contacts are facing up, I decided to redo the schematic to use those
instead of the "NC" contacts. If anyone is interested, I can send my revised
schematic.
Hint: Wire the flap limit switches before the side skin is riveted in place. Or
use the revised schematic.
Jay in Dallas
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi John ,most of the forms are made from 3/4" mdf .This is a very heavy
material and shipping would be expensive unless someone is within driving
distance .The cost is $20.00+ for a 4' X8' sheet .I am sure that some other
601XL builder would send you the full size profile .Then all that is
required is to spray glue the paper onto the MDF and cut around the profile.
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: "jhines" <johnrhines@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 4:24 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rib forms
>
> Oops. I forgot to mention that I am building a 601XL.
>
> --------
> John Hines
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100558#100558
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Or use a Ultra Fine Point Sharpie to mark their positions on the suuport
rod, loosen the set screws on the switches, rotate them on the rod to
allow better access to the screws, do the connections, then reposition
the switches on the rod. Much easier than working upside down or blindly
by feel.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaybannist@cs.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Flap Wiring
I am wiring the flap motor for my XL and encountered a problem. The
two limit switches have six connect points. Two are the "COM" points in
top. No problem. The "NO" & "NC" connectors are on the ends of the
limit switches, two facing up and two facing down. All these connecting
points have VERY tiny screws and lockwashers. The schematic in the
drawings calls for connections to the "NC" points, which (naturally) are
facing down. One would have to use a tiny, right angle screwdriver to
work the screws because the actuator rod and screw would be in the way
of a straight screwdriver; and a mirror to see what you are doing.
Looked virtually impossible to me. I asked Roger at ZAC how to do this
and his solution was to remove the whole flap actuator to wire it! HUH?
Since the "NO" contacts are facing up, I decided to redo the schematic
to use those instead of the "NC" contacts. If anyone is interested, I
can send my revised schematic.
Hint: Wire the flap limit switches before the side skin is riveted in
place. Or use the revised schematic.
Jay in Dallas
--
3/14/2007 3:38 PM
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Actually for each block you can leave the block in place and just unscrew
the two screws holding the microswitch from it. That way you don't loose the
adjustment. But you will probably have to adjust the limits anyway when you
test the whole setup.
-- Craig
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Printable CAD outlines for the rib templates can be found here:
http://www.ch601.org/builder%20resources.htm
-- Craig
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi Jay,
I just dealt with that whole issue a couple of weeks ago, so it is
reasonably fresh in my mind.
First, let me say the way I connected the wires was to crimp some
small "o" terminals onto the wires and then completely remove the
little screws and replace them with the "o" captured.
Second, I don't know if you can get the same function of the circuit
using the Normally Open connections on these switches instead of the
Normally Closed positions. The idea is to disconnect the motor
circuit when the limit is reached so the motor will stop before
putting too much stress on the flap linkage and nearby parts. This
works by using the Normally Closed position on the switch so it
becomes an Open circuit when the limit is reached. I am curious how
you can get the same function using the Normally Open contacts.
Now for the good part -- You need to adjust the position of the limit
switches to get the proper movement of your flaps. There is a little
set screw holding the switch in place on the grooved bar. You can
also loosen the set screws and completely remove the switches. This
makes connecting the wiring harness a lot easier. Then you can
replace the switches and adjust their final position before
tightening the set screws again.
When my assembly arrived there was some kind of goup on the set
screws. I don't know what this was or if it is really necessary. I
would be delighted to hear from anyone if this is necessary and what
kind of stuff to use. I presume it is some kind of Locktite or paint
or something else to prevent the screw from moving.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 03:54 PM 3/14/2007, you wrote:
>
>I am wiring the flap motor for my XL and encountered a problem. The
>two limit switches have six connect points. Two are the "COM"
>points in top. No problem. The "NO" & "NC" connectors are on the
>ends of the limit switches, two facing up and two facing down. All
>these connecting points have VERY tiny screws and lockwashers. The
>schematic in the drawings calls for connections to the "NC" points,
>which (naturally) are facing down. One would have to use a tiny,
>right angle screwdriver to work the screws because the actuator rod
>and screw would be in the way of a straight screwdriver; and a
>mirror to see what you are doing. Looked virtually impossible to
>me. I asked Roger at ZAC how to do this and his solution was to
>remove the whole flap actuator to wire it! HUH?
>
>Since the "NO" contacts are facing up, I decided to redo the
>schematic to use those instead of the "NC" contacts. If anyone is
>interested, I can send my revised schematic.
>
>Hint: Wire the flap limit switches before the side skin is riveted
>in place. Or use the revised schematic.
>
>Jay in Dallas
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Newbie building CH701 - Corrosion / Gotchas |
I'll try to answer each of your questions
CORROSION PROTECTION:
1) I've learned that zinc-chromate is a carcinogen, and other people
have successfully used zinc oxide. How do you treat the aluminum pieces
for corrosion protection and what do YOU use? Who is your supplier?
You have to be careful using both. I used Tempo zinc chromate primer spray
cans purchased at West Marine. They have an online store westmarine.com.
They also have it in a can which I thinned out and
brushed on the skin interiors. For prepping aluminum, I cleaned it in soap
and water with 7557 brown
scotchbrite and gave it a bath in alodine mixed with a little water for a
minute or less , let dry then prime.
You can get a gallon of alodine from Aircraft Spruce. Prep for the skins was
just clean with soap and water
then prime(interior only). On the outside of the skins I gave a quick spray
with ZC on the rivet lines, so the
rivet sat on the primer.
2) Should ALL the surfaces be coated if seaplane operations may be in
the foreseeable future? What additional protection needs to be
performed on the rudder kit if this may be an option?
I live on the east end of Long Island, NY surrounded on three sides by salt
water, all this with the intention
of putting the plane on floats one day with some saltwater operations. What
I am doing might be overkill
for your situation. I built my rudder at the factory and left the interior
as is.
3) Do you have to scrub off any oxidation before protection? What do
you use to clean off the aluminum (I read somewhere that scotch-brite is
bad)?
Some scotchbrites are bad, I used 7557 brown, I couldn't tell you if its bad
but it works great.
PAINT:
1) Engine first, then paint? What kind of paint, and how does one
apply it? Will I need to take this to a professional or can I spray it
myself?
I have installed my engine without painting the airframe, but I did use a
ceramic engine paint in cans
to do the firewall and engine mount.
I have a friend with a brother who does painting. He has a portable paint
booth he brings to your house.
I'm seriously considering this with me as the assistant. Mine will be
sprayed with enamel auto paint.
Many on the list have done their own.
If you want to see pics of my construction, go to _www.701Builder.com_
(http://www.701builder.com/) . I have posted all the good pics
I have to date on my construction, in basic order of building although I did
jump back and forth between
assemblies. I haven't added many descriptions for these pics but it might
give you an idea what to expect
and use as a reference. Make sure to sign the guestbook!
Brian
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The info for the gauge I have seen listed several times as appropriate for
the LRI (DWYER 2-5002}
specifies vertical mounting only. Given the angles that the instrument will
be in and the forces it will be subjected to during various phases of
flight, is there any concern for the long term accuracy and durability of
the gauge?
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Not so far, a company has been using the same gauge commercially for
several years without problems.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raymondj
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: LRI / AOA gauge
The info for the gauge I have seen listed several times as appropriate
for
the LRI (DWYER 2-5002}
specifies vertical mounting only. Given the angles that the instrument
will
be in and the forces it will be subjected to during various phases of
flight, is there any concern for the long term accuracy and durability
of
the gauge?
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Can someone re-send me the link for the cheap gauges again offline, I
can't find it in the archives.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ZodieRocket
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: LRI / AOA gauge
Not so far, a company has been using the same gauge commercially for
several years without problems.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raymondj
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: LRI / AOA gauge
The info for the gauge I have seen listed several times as appropriate
for
the LRI (DWYER 2-5002}
specifies vertical mounting only. Given the angles that the instrument
will
be in and the forces it will be subjected to during various phases of
flight, is there any concern for the long term accuracy and durability
of
the gauge?
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
What company is using this gauge in an airborne system?
Thanks,
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of ZodieRocket
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: LRI / AOA gauge
Not so far, a company has been using the same gauge commercially for
several years without problems.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of raymondj
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: LRI / AOA gauge
The info for the gauge I have seen listed several times as appropriate
for
the LRI (DWYER 2-5002}
specifies vertical mounting only. Given the angles that the instrument
will
be in and the forces it will be subjected to during various phases of
flight, is there any concern for the long term accuracy and durability
of
the gauge?
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
--
3/13/2007 4:51 PM
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
> What company is using this gauge in an airborne system?
www.liftreserve.com/
-- Craig
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I'll be darned! Thanks.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:44 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: LRI / AOA gauge
> What company is using this gauge in an airborne system?
www.liftreserve.com/
-- Craig
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|