Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:21 AM - Vne for CH701 (Ken Arnold)
2. 05:44 AM - Re: Vne for CH701 (Frank Roskind)
3. 06:21 AM - Re: Instant Garage (Tim Juhl)
4. 06:38 AM - Gullwing door--folks only (Big Gee)
5. 06:59 AM - Re: Center Arm Rest (LarryMcFarland)
6. 08:28 AM - Re: Gullwing door--folks only (Aaron Gustafson)
7. 09:42 AM - Re: Gullwing door--folks only (Big Gee)
8. 09:46 AM - Re: 912 carb sync (ricklach)
9. 09:47 AM - Instant building space (Jim Norton)
10. 10:06 AM - Nicked my spar with drill bit (swater6)
11. 10:16 AM - Re: Gullwing door--folks only (R.P.)
12. 10:18 AM - 701 Belly-Pod (ricklach)
13. 10:34 AM - aluminum verses composite (Jim Norton)
14. 10:53 AM - Re: Nicked my spar with drill bit (Carlos Sa)
15. 10:55 AM - Re: Gullwing door--folks only (David Downey)
16. 11:04 AM - Re: aluminum verses composite (Craig Payne)
17. 11:15 AM - Re: aluminum verses composite (Aaron Gustafson)
18. 11:15 AM - Re: aluminum verses composite (Craig Payne)
19. 11:20 AM - LRI Probe (Ron Lalonde)
20. 11:44 AM - Re: Re: Instant Garage (Tom Lutz)
21. 12:02 PM - Re: aluminum verses composite (ZodieRocket)
22. 12:14 PM - Re: 912 carb sync (Klaus Truemper)
23. 12:36 PM - Re: Nicked my spar with drill bit (David Downey)
24. 01:15 PM - Re: Instant Garage (Perry Delano)
25. 01:19 PM - Fw: aluminum verses composite (JOHN STARN)
26. 01:28 PM - Re: aluminum verses composite (C Smith)
27. 01:41 PM - Re: aluminum verses composite (John Bolding)
28. 01:50 PM - Apples vs. Oranges (Zed Smith)
29. 02:05 PM - Re: aluminum verses composite (raymondj)
30. 03:18 PM - Re: Nicked my spar with drill bit ()
31. 03:39 PM - Re: Re: Making an LRI probe ()
32. 04:00 PM - Re: LRI Probe (Ron Lendon)
33. 04:19 PM - Re: xxx Re: Re: Making an LRI probe (John Bolding)
34. 04:24 PM - Re: Re: Making an LRI probe (Big Gee)
35. 04:43 PM - Re: xxx Re: Re: Making an LRI probe (David Downey)
36. 05:13 PM - composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses (Jim Norton)
37. 06:03 PM - Re: Instant Garage (Tim Juhl)
38. 06:49 PM - Canopy latching (robert stone)
39. 07:22 PM - Re: Canopy latching (Bryan Martin)
40. 07:36 PM - Re: composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses (Noel Loveys)
41. 07:45 PM - Re: Canopy latching (robert stone)
42. 09:05 PM - Re: composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses (Matt Reeves)
43. 09:08 PM - Re: Re: Instant Garage (Matt Reeves)
44. 09:11 PM - Re: Canopy latching (Steve Hulland)
45. 09:15 PM - Re: Re: Instant Garage (Tom Lutz)
46. 09:23 PM - Re: Re: Instant Garage (Steve Hulland)
47. 09:50 PM - Re: Re: Making an LRI probe (ROBERT SCEPPA)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Listers,
I am trying to understand the "flutter" threshold for the 701. There are a
few times when flying near 10K msl will provide better cruise performance
and burn rate. However, the latest Kitplane magazine has an article that
sounds a little scary. It seems the IAS Vne at 10K feet msl is reduced
considerably. I have seen the formula suggesting you multiply the altitude
units by 1.5 to get percent reduction. At 10K msl, 10 x 1.5= 15% reduction.
If Vne at sea level is 110 mph then at 10K it would be 110 x 0.85 = 93.5 mph
IAS.
I would appreciate any comments clarifying this.
Ken Arnold
CH701 QB Kit about 75% complete
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Flutter is related to true airspeed not indicated or calibrated, so it
occurs at lower IAS when you get to higher altitudes.
From: "Ken Arnold" <arno7452@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Vne for CH701
Listers,
I am trying to understand the "flutter" threshold for the 701. There are a
few times when flying near 10K msl will provide better cruise performance
and burn rate. However, the latest Kitplane magazine has an article that
sounds a little scary. It seems the IAS Vne at 10K feet msl is reduced
considerably. I have seen the formula suggesting you multiply the altitude
units by 1.5 to get percent reduction. At 10K msl, 10 x 1.5= 15% reduction.
If Vne at sea level is 110 mph then at 10K it would be 110 x 0.85 = 93.5 mph
IAS.
I would appreciate any comments clarifying this.
Ken Arnold
CH701 QB Kit about 75% complete
_________________________________________________________________
Interest Rates near 39yr lows! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate
new payment
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
If you are going to put it on your own property you need to see if there would
be any zoning issues. You might also want to consider a fabric covered shelter.
We see a lot of these showing up on farms. Some of the structures made this
way are huge and come with at least a 15 year guarantee on the fabric. If
I ever decide to keep my XL at the airstrip by my house I've considered using
a hangar made this way.
Visit http://www.shelterlogic.com/ for some examples.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102057#102057
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Gullwing door--folks only |
Gullwingers--
I would like to "talk" off site to any folks who have built their own gullwing
door, canopy system for the 601 series aircraft. Please contact me, off site,
as I do not want to start a "firestorm" on this site about "gullwing doors"
etc.
I have a my canopy framework all jigged up and ready for welding. I would like
to discuss is, have any of you folks have run wiring etc. overhead (between
the gullwing door hinges)? It seems to me a lot of the "plumbing" can go there.
I plan on doing this, but would like to hear form those who have, "been
there, done that".
Fritz----- XL -- Corvair -- scratch builder
---------------------------------
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Center Arm Rest |
Yes Bill,
The image provided was on the center section page of my site.
Easy to miss....
Larry
Bill Naumuk wrote:
>
> Larry-
> Do you have a batch of pictures not on your site? I swear I've
> never seen this one before!
> I'd already resigned myself to installing the L angles, just wanted
> HDSers on the list to beware of upcoming hassles. Figured the best way
> to help people down the line was to identify a problem and get
> everyone's input in one string.
> The gent I spoke of a couple of weeks ago on list just bought an XL
> kit. He lives about 1/2 hour away and is 70 years old. Showed up at my
> place driving his Escalade but walked up to the front door wearing a
> yellow rain slicker and Wellington boots. My kind of people. I'll
> introduce you once he's "Settled in".
> Thanks, as always.
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuse/Corvair
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "LarryMcFarland"
> <larry@macsmachine.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 9:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Center Arm Rest
>
>
>> <larry@macsmachine.com>
>>
>> Bill,
>> I did have the angles in when the center section was complete, but it
>> shouldn't be that difficult to do
>> even after you've connected the tail. You might just have to stand
>> in front of the center section to get it
>> done, unless your floor is already in. (see link,)
>>
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/centerwing/centersection/full/wing-spars-to-center-sectio.gif
>>
>>
>> Larry McFarland
>>
>> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>> All-
>>> I was moving merrily along on the front fuse when I come to
>>> steps 7 and 8 on FF-5.
>>> "Cleco 6V12-4 to 6F16-1". No problem. "Cleco 6F16-1 to the L
>>> ANGLES". Went back and checked, no mention of installing the armrest
>>> L angles during c-section construction. No mention of their
>>> installation anywhere! Checked out Larry Mac's and Jeff Small's
>>> pictures and neither show the L angles installed at this stage of
>>> the game. Not a show-stopper, but if I have to put them in now an
>>> extra foot of height and arm length would be beneficial!
>>> Thoughts?
>>> do not archive (?) Bill Naumuk
>>> HDS Fuse/Corvair
>>> Townville, Pa
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gullwing door--folks only |
Fritz
There is no address for you on the post.
Aaron agustafson@chartermi.net do not archive
Gullwingers--
I would like to "talk" off site to any folks who have built their own
gullwing door
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gullwing door--folks only |
HI Aaron,
Thanks for the heads up, my "back channel" address should have shown up in the
heading area. In case it didn't, reply to" taffy0687@yahoo.com.
Have a nice day,
Fritz
Aaron Gustafson <agustafson@chartermi.net> wrote:
Fritz
There is no address for you on the post.
Aaron agustafson@chartermi.net do not archive
Gullwingers--
I would like to "talk" off site to any folks who have built their own gullwing
door
---------------------------------
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
bargains.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 912 carb sync |
Hi Klaus,
Your rod design looks very solid and dependable. But I have a question for you.
Have you seen any issues with your rod set-up when the engine torques in the
airframe. Like RPM changes.
Looking forward to your comments.
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102102#102102
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Instant building space |
Tom,
I think that it is doable but here are some considerations that I would
need to factor in if I were doing this...
1.) most containers are very long, but not very wide so that can make
some aspects of construction more difficult.
2.) they normally do not have any electrical connections so I would want
to put an electrical feed line, a sub-panel (distribution box) and
grounding rods. remember this is a metal box and all electrical
outlets need a little extra care in wiring (good luck if an electrical
inspector happens by...)
3.) they have no windows - so no light even in the day and
ventilation. Hot in summer, cold in winter, always stuffy. All these
can be easily addressed but you need to factor in the added time and
costs of these additions.
4.) probably the local zoning laws in Rockaway have size and offset
restrictions regarding use and placement of the container, if a neighbor
complains - its gone...
5.) access through the double doors at the end can be very frustrating,
and I'm not sure one can open and close those doors from the inside
without a bit of metal work.
6.) ground work to keep the container fairly level may involve some
yard work, one may not want to plop a 20 foot long container on uneven
soft wet ground.
In Budd Lake, the neighbors and town officials would have fits if I
tried to use a container as a (temporary) structure, but if I thought
I could get away with it I would.
An alternative would be to go over to 84 Lumber, they have pans for
building storage sheds, I would build a 10 X 12 shed (probably the
maximum without a permit to get started. when you need more space,
build a 4 foot section in the middle and move the rear of the shed
back. It won't draw as much attention.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Nicked my spar with drill bit |
Before I send this one to Zenith, I thought I'd bounce it off the post.
The one thing I've avoided during wing construction is any nicks on the main spar
that would lead to a crack. Last night while drilling the small holes for
nutplates for the finger screen access cover, I nicked the main main spar doubler
with the bit. (I almost barfed) Standard procedure is to sand or file smooth.
I sanded and it's completely smooth. But... this leaves a small concave
section almost 1mm deep at the deepest point but blends out nicely and doesn't
extend more than about 8mm from the top of the piece.
You know the question. Would you rip your wing apart to drill out and replace
the doubler or is this amount of material sanded off of no affect?
--------
601 XL kit
Tail, control surfaces and 1 wing complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102111#102111
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gullwing door--folks only |
I'd like to see the gullwing setup. I was thinking about going that route
when I built my Zodiac, but stayed with the flip-up canopy in the end.
If you're reluctant to post the info here in fear of flames, please send
pics to zodie@adelphia.net
Thanks,
Rick Pitcher
Zodiac HD with flip-top
http://www.lightflyers.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Big Gee" <taffy0687@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:37 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Gullwing door--folks only
> Gullwingers--
> I would like to "talk" off site to any folks who have built their own
> gullwing door, canopy system for the 601 series aircraft. Please contact
> me, off site, as I do not want to start a "firestorm" on this site about
> "gullwing doors" etc.
>
> I have a my canopy framework all jigged up and ready for welding. I
> would like to discuss is, have any of you folks have run wiring etc.
> overhead (between the gullwing door hinges)? It seems to me a lot of the
> "plumbing" can go there. I plan on doing this, but would like to hear
> form those who have, "been there, done that".
>
> Fritz----- XL -- Corvair -- scratch builder
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
> Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7:52 AM
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I just got through looking at some videos of 701s on You Tube and saw a belly-pod
on a 701 in the Amazon. Can anyone post some information on how to build one
or where I can get one for my 701?
Thanks
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102114#102114
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
I am about to start the rudder for a scratch built 601XL (Corvair?).
However, yesterday I heard of a 3/4 completed Vision homebuilt that was
for sale. (The builder had died). This project is a composite plane
and total estimated time for a scratch build is 3000 hours. I have not
seen any estimates of how long a scratch build is for the 601. My
question is this? Has anyone worked on both metal and composite? What
are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I realize this is a
Zenith (metal built planes) site and that the people who are here have
decided that is the way to go. At 59, I suspect this will be the only
plane I'll have. I'm taking flying lessons now so I don't have a much
experience in that area either. I would assess my building skills as
well above average and have space and tools to build about anything. I
would just like to hear what others had considered when they chose their
project.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nicked my spar with drill bit |
Number 1, you do need to talk to ZAC.
Number 2, I did something similar on my stabilizer. I wrote to ZAC, and got
an answer from Chris Heintz: he said to treat the spar as a propeller with a
nick - just file it until smooth.
So, I'd say you need not trash or even disassemble anything. But do contact
ZAC and get their advice.
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans.
On 21/03/07, swater6 <waters.scott@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Before I send this one to Zenith, I thought I'd bounce it off the post.
> The one thing I've avoided during wing construction is any nicks on the
> main spar that would lead to a crack. Last night while drilling the small
> holes for nutplates for the finger screen access cover, I nicked the main
> main spar doubler with the bit. (I almost barfed) Standard procedure is to
> sand or file smooth. I sanded and it's completely smooth. But... this
> leaves a small concave section almost 1mm deep at the deepest point but
> blends out nicely and doesn't extend more than about 8mm from the top of the
> piece.
> You know the question. Would you rip your wing apart to drill out and
> replace the doubler or is this amount of material sanded off of no affect?
>
> --------
> 601 XL kit
> Tail, control surfaces and 1 wing complete
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gullwing door--folks only |
please add my address to that particular off-line discussion as well: planecrazydld@yahoo.com
Thanks!
"R.P." <zodie@adelphia.net> wrote:
I'd like to see the gullwing setup. I was thinking about going that route
when I built my Zodiac, but stayed with the flip-up canopy in the end.
If you're reluctant to post the info here in fear of flames, please send
pics to zodie@adelphia.net
Thanks,
Rick Pitcher
Zodiac HD with flip-top
http://www.lightflyers.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Big Gee"
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:37 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Gullwing door--folks only
> Gullwingers--
> I would like to "talk" off site to any folks who have built their own
> gullwing door, canopy system for the 601 series aircraft. Please contact
> me, off site, as I do not want to start a "firestorm" on this site about
> "gullwing doors" etc.
>
> I have a my canopy framework all jigged up and ready for welding. I
> would like to discuss is, have any of you folks have run wiring etc.
> overhead (between the gullwing door hinges)? It seems to me a lot of the
> "plumbing" can go there. I plan on doing this, but would like to hear
> form those who have, "been there, done that".
>
> Fritz----- XL -- Corvair -- scratch builder
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
> Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7:52 AM
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
Some of the down-sides to composite construction are the need for a
temperature-controlled space to build in where fumes won't bother someone
else. Also the skills take longer to acquire for a klutz like me. Composite
planes look prettier but a well designed and built metal plane can be just
as light.
One side point to think about. The FWF package for the XL and a Corvair is
well developed with the nose bowl and motor mount available. If you want to
use a Corvair in the Vision you will need to do a lot of the development
yourself (although I bet you could make William's nose bowl work on the
Vision). I don't know the Vision's numbers but the Corvair may also not be
suitable.
-- Craig
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: aluminum verses composite |
METAL
work on it anywhere (no stink)
few special tools
health hazards: metal cuts
fast planes or STOL
clean the shop by sweeping up the cutoffs and rivet mandrels
COMPOSITE
temperature criticle shop
more special tools
health hazards: epoxy sensitivity, fiberglass cuts and slivers
usually fast planes ie. long runways=hanger rent
clean the shop by grinding the drips off the floor
do not archive
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
BTW: you are really looking at two very different planes. The XL is an LSA
while Vne on the Vision is 207 mph. The Vision is a new design with only a
few flying while there are hundreds of XLs flying. You should decide what
kind of builder and pilot you are and what "missions" you will be flying.
*Then* choose a plane.
-- Craig
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Has anyone actually made a probe for an LRI ??
How do you drill the holes? Drilling the aluminum is a real pain. Not bad
until you get deep.
What type of drill is required?
The local machine shops have given me quotes that make actually make buying
the commercially available LRI cheaper!!
Any source available to buy a probe maybe???
Thanks in Advance for your help
Ron
601XL #6520
Working on wings (so the LRI is just a sideline...LOL)
_________________________________________________________________
This March Break, Have An Outdoor Fun-For-All!
http://local.live.com/?mkt=en-ca/?v=2&cidD6BDB4586E357F!147
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
Those fabric shelters look like they could be a viable solution, except they
have no floor...right?
On 3/21/07, Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net> wrote:
>
>
> If you are going to put it on your own property you need to see if there
> would be any zoning issues. You might also want to consider a fabric
> covered shelter. We see a lot of these showing up on farms. Some of the
> structures made this way are huge and come with at least a 15 year guarantee
> on the fabric. If I ever decide to keep my XL at the airstrip by my house
> I've considered using a hangar made this way.
>
> Visit http://www.shelterlogic.com/ for some examples.
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> ______________
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
> Working on wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102057#102057
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
Jim , there are many considerations for Aluminium over Composite. I'm
only going to touch on three, the listers may be able to provide the
several hundred or more other issues.
Composite requires humidity and temperature control to be exact during
the whole process; this can sometimes be a problematic situation.
In an accident situation I have seen where a composite ,which I thought
did not land particularly hard come apart totally and all shards of
glass became daggers into the occupants. This should have easily been a
walk away incident but ....well you get the picture, glass fibers in a
situation can be deadly.
My NUMBER 1 reason for not building a fiberglass plane is the itch
factor, every night you go to bed scratching, I have woken up several
mornings red and swollen from glass fibers, wife has also woken up in
similar shape and she wasn't in the workshop. Precautions can be made to
eliminate the issue, but in metal planes it is a non factor. The only
thing I brought to bed in my metal plane was a completed Rudder ! Wife
was not impressed ! You would think she would have expected the
Stabilizer ! Nope it was couch time once again !
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Norton
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: aluminum verses composite
I am about to start the rudder for a scratch built 601XL (Corvair?).
However, yesterday I heard of a 3/4 completed Vision homebuilt that was
for sale. (The builder had died). This project is a composite plane
and total estimated time for a scratch build is 3000 hours. I have not
seen any estimates of how long a scratch build is for the 601. My
question is this? Has anyone worked on both metal and composite? What
are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I realize this is a
Zenith (metal built planes) site and that the people who are here have
decided that is the way to go. At 59, I suspect this will be the only
plane I'll have. I'm taking flying lessons now so I don't have a much
experience in that area either. I would assess my building skills as
well above average and have space and tools to build about anything. I
would just like to hear what others had considered when they chose their
project.
--
3/21/2007 7:52 AM
--
3/21/2007 7:52 AM
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 912 carb sync |
Hi Rick,
Joe Spencer sent an email with the same concern about synchronization
via rods when the engine moves a abit.
Here is the analysis of that aspect:
Altogether, any engine movement is very small
since the motor mounts are so stiff.
But suppose the propeller pulls the engine foward a bit,
or a power reduction has the engine move backward a bit.
Then this effect occurs on both sides, and thus the
throttle settings remain synchronized. The same conclusion
applies if the engine rotates a bit on the longitudinal axis
due to engine torque. It that case, both throttles are
again affected the same way.
In fact, we have never noticed
any unbalanced behavior because of power setting or whatever
else might make the engine move a bit.
It would be different if, looking from the top down on the
engine, the engine would rotated in the mount. But I cannot
see why the engine or propeller forces
would ever cause such a rotation.
More important is the vibration that constantly shakes
the rods. I was initially concerned that this would wear out
the rod ends and thus lead to imprecise positions of the
throttle. After more than 1000 hours, there is a tiny amount
of play, of no concern so far. There is NO safety issue since
a large washer is outside the rod end so that even a failure
of the rod end cannot result in the rod disconnecting from the
carburetor.
My friend Mel Asberry, the expert builder, and I
came up with the rod idea AFTER we had installed the cables.
We never got them to work right and decided to go to rods.
This has been an excellent choice. Once the carburetors
are carefully synchronized, they stay that way and never need
any adjustment.
>From a safety standpoint I never liked the cable setup
to begin with. If one cable disconnects, that side goes to
full throttle due to the spring. Yet the other side stays
at whatever setting you have,
and the engine is extremely unbalanced
in the power output of the cylinders. This has got to be
extremely dangerous. The rods, with their positive control,
completely avoid that problem.
Happy Flying,
Klaus Truemper
--
Klaus Truemper
Professor Emeritus of Computer Science
University of Texas at Dallas
Erik Jonsson School of Engineering and
Computer Science EC31
P.O. Box 830688
Richardson, TX 75083-0688
(972) 883-2712
klaus@utdallas.edu
www.utdallas.edu/~klaus
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nicked my spar with drill bit |
contact ZAC and make sure that you get a response in writing from an Engineer.
It makes a great deal of difference upper cap, lower cap, point on span, depthin
% of wall thickness, % of wall height affected, proximity to edge, etc., etc....
Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com> wrote: Number 1, you do need to talk to ZAC.
Number 2, I did something similar on my stabilizer. I wrote to ZAC, and got an
answer from Chris Heintz: he said to treat the spar as a propeller with a nick
- just file it until smooth.
So, I'd say you need not trash or even disassemble anything. But do contact ZAC
and get their advice.
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans.
Before I send this one to Zenith, I thought I'd bounce it off the post.
The one thing I've avoided during wing construction is any nicks on the main spar
that would lead to a crack. Last night while drilling the small holes for
nutplates for the finger screen access cover, I nicked the main main spar doubler
with the bit. (I almost barfed) Standard procedure is to sand or file smooth.
I sanded and it's completely smooth. But... this leaves a small concave
section almost 1mm deep at the deepest point but blends out nicely and doesn't
extend more than about 8mm from the top of the piece.
You know the question. Would you rip your wing apart to drill out and replace
the doubler or is this amount of material sanded off of no affect?
--------
601 XL kit
Tail, control surfaces and 1 wing complete
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
My company built semi mobile debarkers for the forest industry. We used
40 foot shipping containers with partition walls to form an MCC room,
Hydraulic Power Unit Room and a small central workshop. Great idea, but
not the best lawn ornament. Used ones are dirt cheap.
Perry
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: aluminum verses composite
Great post... (BUT I did add a few things)
KABONG Do Not Archive HRII N561FS & Corvette driver
>
>
> FROM: Zenith-List message posted by: "Aaron Gustafson"
> <agustafson@chartermi.net>
>
> METAL
> work on it anywhere (no stink)
> few special tools
> health hazards: metal cuts & cleco cramps
> fast planes or STOL
> clean the shop by sweeping up the cutoffs and rivet mandrels (once a week
> ??)
> paint it any color
> park it outside option
>
>
> COMPOSITE
> temperature critical shop
> more special tools
> health hazards: epoxy sensitivity, fiberglass cuts and slivers = ITCH
> usually fast planes ie. long paved runways
> vaccum up the "powder" daily (unless you like the Peanuts "Pig Pen" look
> as you walk thru the shop)
> clean the shop by grinding the drips off the floor
> paint choices..: White, off-white & egg shell
> gotta have a hanger
> AND the 3 S's....Sanding, sanding & SANDING
>
Original post:
I am about to start the rudder for a scratch built 601XL (Corvair?).
However, yesterday I heard of a 3/4 completed Vision homebuilt that was
for sale. (The builder had died). This project is a composite plane
and total estimated time for a scratch build is 3000 hours. I have not
seen any estimates of how long a scratch build is for the 601. My
question is this? Has anyone worked on both metal and composite? What
are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I realize this is a
Zenith (metal built planes) site and that the people who are here have
decided that is the way to go. At 59, I suspect this will be the only
plane I'll have. I'm taking flying lessons now so I don't have a much
experience in that area either. I would assess my building skills as
well above average and have space and tools to build about anything. I
would just like to hear what others had considered when they chose their
project.
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
I would have to emphatically concur with Craig.
" You should decide what kind of builder and pilot you are and what
"missions" you will be flying.
*Then* choose a plane.
-- Craig"
Here is my discussion with Mark Townsend about the plane and pilot thing. I
hope he doesn't mind the posting of our private conversation, but I think it
highlights' the issues to settle before you choose metal or plastic.
****************************************************
Mark wrote...
Craig, I hope you don't find me prying, but once in awhile I get a feeling
that I need to talk to someone a little more about there decision. I am
getting this feeling right now. Please don't feel I'm prying or in any way
trying to influence your decisions. However, I wish to make you think and
consider your decision a little further.
Believe it or not I have less of a desire to sell you a plane then I do have
to ensure that you finish a plane and realize your dreams. This is by far
more important to me, I want to ensure that you know everything involved in
your decisions and that you have a clear picture of the adventure in front
of you.
Would you mind telling me a little more about yourself and the process that
you went through to arrive at your decision of the CH640.
Once again, if I am invading your privacy or prying too much then I will
hold all comments and questions and do what you ask for specifically.
Nevertheless, I would rather be a friend over a salesman and help in your
decision. It is just who I am, it takes a lot more of my time but on a whole
any customers who I have engaged in this type of conversation have been
grateful.
Mark Townsend
Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
president@can-zacaviation.com
www.can-zacaviation.com
My reply to Mark was.....
I have 400 hrs in high wing SELAs, Roughly half in 172, half in 182 turbo
G1000. Recently instrument rated, I'd like to be able to fly myself and my
wife with a real life load of baggage. Missions to include all weekend and
vacation travel, with possible business travel. Flight to Bahamas, Canada,
AK possible. Aircraft must be capable of operation in IMC. Long haul
comfort, and economical operation.
I have a serious desire to continue flying, but can't afford the costs of
new certified aircraft and their maintenance. I have a hangar at Livingston
county airport, many shop tool including a gas and mig welding, Smithy type
combination lathe/mill, drill press, air compressor, pneumatic tools,
conventional mechanics tools.
I'm a licensed electrician, I work in skilled trades at Ford/Wixom. I was a
radar/fire control technician in the NAVY, where I learned my trade, working
on radar systems/electromechanical drives and military computers. In high
school I took shop classes, and my father was a civil engineer who loved to
teach me concepts of physics and engineering.
I first was thinking of building a Sportsman 2+2, (high wing transition,
very similar to 182 in capability and performance. Recent events in auto
industry have limited future overtime income. More spare time-less income.
So Sportsman really is more expensive, and working with glass is totally
beyond my experience, and it looks like there are a lot of environmental
controls involved in the construction process that increase the cost/effort.
Next I found the 801 after some poking around, not as fast as the Sportsman
but it met my useful load requirements, which is my key parameter for
aircraft capability. After further surfing the zenith pages, I started
looking at he 640. At first I didn't consider a low-wing, but the increase
in cruise speed for a minimum of cost, and the fact that my wife didn't like
the idea of bush-type flying pushed the scale in favor of the 640.
In summary, I felt that the 640 best met my needs for useful load, and the
cost/value/skill/time envelope. Another factor was the ability to have an
aircraft with exactly what equipment/power plant I wanted, within the
airframe limitations of course.
Hope that sheds some light.
Craig Smith
*************************************************
Lastly, I chose metal construction because there are fewer environmental and
housekeeping issues associated with that construction, as well as IFR
lightning protection. The additional steps to introduce the conductive grid
into the airframe on a composite construction is complicated and would add
significantly to cost/time/expertise to complete.
Hope this is a frame work from which you can make your own decisions.
Craig Smith
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: aluminum verses composite |
First off , at 59 this will probably NOT be your last homebuilt, started
my first one at 29 and now 61 and have several more planned when the 701
is finished.
Have built both alum and glass airplanes and everything that has been
said so far is right on.
There is glass and there is glass, The Vision is moldless and will
require a bunch, repeat BUNCH of finish work, depending on how perfect
you want the airplane. This may or may not be something you like to do.
Glass airplanes CAN be as light as alum but RARELY are as it requires
prepreg, ovens,vacuum, carbon, MUCH engineering to get minimum layup
schedules etc.
Having inspected dozens of projects that were "75-90% finished" I'd say
to get someone that's completed a Vision, or at least to the point your
potential project is, to comment on pictures you send him if time in
construction means that much to you.
Inspecting someone's glass work is difficult at best, one of the early
Glasairs came apart in flight when the leading edge of the wing opened
up due to upper and lower panels being joined improperly, impossible to
determine after the fact, but readily apparent when the pieces were
exposed.
Having built both, plus rag and tube, I like aluminum.
LOW&SLOW John Bolding
I am about to start the rudder for a scratch built 601XL (Corvair?).
However, yesterday I heard of a 3/4 completed Vision homebuilt that
was
for sale. (The builder had died). This project is a composite plane
and total estimated time for a scratch build is 3000 hours. I have
not
seen any estimates of how long a scratch build is for the 601. My
question is this? Has anyone worked on both metal and composite?
What
are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I realize this is a
Zenith (metal built planes) site and that the people who are here have
decided that is the way to go. At 59, I suspect this will be the only
plane I'll have. I'm taking flying lessons now so I don't have a much
experience in that area either. I would assess my building skills as
well above average and have space and tools to build about anything.
I
would just like to hear what others had considered when they chose
their
project.
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Apples vs. Oranges |
Been holding both thumbs in the palm of my hands for a week to prevent said digits
flying loose and contributing to the "Aluminum vs. Composite" range war that
has blazed these last few days.
Can't think of anything to add to the fray, so, I won't.
do not archive......it's STILL apples & oranges. Scotchbright pads come in colors.
A great first day of spring to all !! 72 degrees F in north Texas.
Zed
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | aluminum verses composite |
Depending on the skill of the builder, it is very easy to add a significant
amount of weight to an airframe with improper lay-up. Unless you know how
much the airframe should weigh at a particular point in the building process
it is hard to detect.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Norton
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: aluminum verses composite
I am about to start the rudder for a scratch built 601XL (Corvair?).
However, yesterday I heard of a 3/4 completed Vision homebuilt that was
for sale. (The builder had died). This project is a composite plane
and total estimated time for a scratch build is 3000 hours. I have not
seen any estimates of how long a scratch build is for the 601. My
question is this? Has anyone worked on both metal and composite? What
are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I realize this is a
Zenith (metal built planes) site and that the people who are here have
decided that is the way to go. At 59, I suspect this will be the only
plane I'll have. I'm taking flying lessons now so I don't have a much
experience in that area either. I would assess my building skills as
well above average and have space and tools to build about anything. I
would just like to hear what others had considered when they chose their
project.
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nicked my spar with drill bit |
Been there, done that, but bigger and worser. According to 43-31, or
whatever the number is, if you "dish" the surface 10 long and 1 deep,
(as measured by the depth of the nick) you're OK. as long as it's a
small nick or scratch. Mine, I got it real good, and will have to open
it up and replace the doubler. Just make sure you leave no trace of the
nick when you're done, and it's as smooth as original.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
----- Original Message -----
From: swater6<mailto:waters.scott@comcast.net>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Nicked my spar with drill bit
<waters.scott@comcast.net<mailto:waters.scott@comcast.net>>
Before I send this one to Zenith, I thought I'd bounce it off the
post.
The one thing I've avoided during wing construction is any nicks on
the main spar that would lead to a crack. Last night while drilling the
small holes for nutplates for the finger screen access cover, I nicked
the main main spar doubler with the bit. (I almost barfed) Standard
procedure is to sand or file smooth. I sanded and it's completely
smooth. But... this leaves a small concave section almost 1mm deep at
the deepest point but blends out nicely and doesn't extend more than
about 8mm from the top of the piece.
You know the question. Would you rip your wing apart to drill out and
replace the doubler or is this amount of material sanded off of no
affect?
--------
601 XL kit
Tail, control surfaces and 1 wing complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102111#102111<http://forums
matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102111#102111>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Zenith-List>
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
Re the "sorta like this", illustration, I also made a lot of aluminum
shavings, trying to properly drill the *&^%$ probe. I think, though,
that the magic comes from the differential pressure generated by the
square nose of the probe, with the inlets on upper and lower sides of
the corner of the block of aluminum. I put mine on the shelf for a
while, but I plan to make a probe equivalent to my longest drill's
flutes, and then mount it with tubes held rigidly. May not work, but
worth a try.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
----- Original Message -----
From: secatur<mailto:appraise1@bigpond.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 7:05 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Making an LRI probe
<appraise1@bigpond.com<mailto:appraise1@bigpond.com>>
Sorta like this ?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101980#101980<http://forums
matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101980#101980>
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan0002_183.bmp<http://forums.matroni
cs.com//files/scan0002_183.bmp>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Zenith-List>
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The only way I know how to drill deep is by peck drilling. You let the drill cut
a little then back it out to free the chips, use lots of fluid. Your drill
press needs about 6" of spindle travel to do the AOA I saw on ch601.org.
Or you might want to look up gun drilling. Thats a method where the coolant runs
through the drill.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102194#102194
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
Been holding off this discussion as I didn't have things quite together
but lots of guys are looking for probes so I'll post what I have. I can
supply these for $30, injection molded. they have 1/8" NPT (F) threads
on the top. These are in stock.
Been looking around for a good silkscreener for the guage face but
haven't found one yet that I like so you're on your own there for the
immediate future. I'll have them however as soon as I can. I'll post a
picture of the probes as soon as I figure out how.
Probes are black and made from nylon so rest assured that paint is
probably not gonna stick.
John Bolding
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
I am going to drill mine from each end, than weld one end closed. A
Fritz
paulrod36@msn.com wrote:
Re the "sorta like this", illustration, I also made a lot of aluminum
shavings, trying to properly drill the *&^%$ probe. I think, though, that
the magic comes from the differential pressure generated by the square nose of
the probe, with the inlets on upper and lower sides of the corner of the block
of aluminum. I put mine on the shelf for a while, but I plan to make a probe
equivalent to my longest drill's flutes, and then mount it with tubes held rigidly.
May not work, but worth a try.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
----- Original Message -----
From: secatur
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 7:05 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Making an LRI probe
Sorta like this ?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101980#101980
Attachments:
http://forumnbsp; Features Subscriptions title=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron======================
bsp; available via title=http://forums.matronics.com/ href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
HI John;
That is simply a possibility - Nylon is readily both bonded and painted, but
the details are critical. Very thorough abrasion and very thin coatings are best
but we do it all the time here at Boeing.
John Bolding <jnbolding1@teleshare.net> wrote:
Been holding off this discussion as I didn't have things quite together
but lots of guys are looking for probes so I'll post what I have. I can supply
these for $30, injection molded. they have 1/8" NPT (F) threads on the top.
These are in stock.
Been looking around for a good silkscreener for the guage face but haven't found
one yet that I like so you're on your own there for the immediate future.
I'll have them however as soon as I can. I'll post a picture of the probes as
soon as I figure out how.
Probes are black and made from nylon so rest assured that paint is probably not
gonna stick.
John Bolding
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses |
Something I did not remember and hence didn't mention. About 40 years
ago I worked in Maine boatyard. Back then there were two common
idiosycracies in working with fiberglass. One, we noticed a number of
large fiberglass boats that had struck submerged rocks (reefs) split
right down the keel line. Over the next few design and construction
changes seemed to have eliminated this problem, or perhaps people
learned where the rocks were. The second issue was people building
glass boats tended to use a lot of fiberglass and the earlier production
models were very very heavy. In boat building this was a good thing for
the customer because the boats were virtually bullet proof. Those early
models are still in demand today by commercial fishermen. However, with
light airplanes, (particularly home built) this might be a big problem.
I would guess that it would be hard to estimate if the partially
completed plane is over weight. A two seater doesn't have a lot of
payload capacity and 25 extra pounds of glass could easily be hidden in
the plane. Anyway, it looks like the same problems that haunted the
composite boats 40 years ago haunt the composite planes today. I
haven't given up on either plane yet, just deciding to wait longer and
get more information. I think that I will begin the 601 rudder because
it won't cost me much more than I already spent and I like building
stuff. I understand there is a whole pile of rudders stored at the
Zenith plant made by potential customers who have changed their minds.
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
Regarding fabric shelter - floor is your choice - dirt, wood, concrete.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102217#102217
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Members,
My canopy will not latch unless I pull real hard on the backside
and then only the left side from the pilots position will latch on the
first stage only. The right side will not latch at all. Can anyone who
has had this problem on the ZodiacXL tell me what the fix is.
Tracy Stone
ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 330
Harker Heights, Tx
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy latching |
You might try putting shims under the latch pins on the canopy rails.
On Mar 21, 2007, at 9:48 PM, robert stone wrote:
> Members,
> My canopy will not latch unless I pull real hard on the
> backside and then only the left side from the pilots position will
> latch on the first stage only. The right side will not latch at
> all. Can anyone who has had this problem on the ZodiacXL tell me
> what the fix is.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses |
I think in the early days of fibre glass the perception was it was the resin
that gave strength to the glass. In fact the greatest strength is when the
weight of the cloth is and glass is about 70:30 in favour of the cloth. the
problem with this type of light weight glass is it is somewhat porous. To
effectively keep water out or gas in, as the case may be, there has to be a
resilient impervious coating to the glass. If this coating is marred then
there are a raft of un nice things that can happen. Things like water
permeation and then freezing which can cause delaminating of the glass at
the worst possible time.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jim Norton
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 9:42 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses
>
>
>
> Something I did not remember and hence didn't mention. About
> 40 years
> ago I worked in Maine boatyard. Back then there were two common
> idiosycracies in working with fiberglass. One, we noticed a
> number of
> large fiberglass boats that had struck submerged rocks (reefs) split
> right down the keel line. Over the next few design and construction
> changes seemed to have eliminated this problem, or perhaps people
> learned where the rocks were. The second issue was people building
> glass boats tended to use a lot of fiberglass and the earlier
> production
> models were very very heavy. In boat building this was a
> good thing for
> the customer because the boats were virtually bullet proof.
> Those early
> models are still in demand today by commercial fishermen.
> However, with
> light airplanes, (particularly home built) this might be a
> big problem.
> I would guess that it would be hard to estimate if the partially
> completed plane is over weight. A two seater doesn't have a lot of
> payload capacity and 25 extra pounds of glass could easily be
> hidden in
> the plane. Anyway, it looks like the same problems that haunted the
> composite boats 40 years ago haunt the composite planes today. I
> haven't given up on either plane yet, just deciding to wait
> longer and
> get more information. I think that I will begin the 601
> rudder because
> it won't cost me much more than I already spent and I like building
> stuff. I understand there is a whole pile of rudders stored at the
> Zenith plant made by potential customers who have changed their minds.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy latching |
Bryan,
Thanks for the response, I will try that.
Tracy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Canopy latching
>
> You might try putting shims under the latch pins on the canopy rails.
>
>
> On Mar 21, 2007, at 9:48 PM, robert stone wrote:
>
>> Members,
>> My canopy will not latch unless I pull real hard on the backside
>> and then only the left side from the pilots position will latch on the
>> first stage only. The right side will not latch at all. Can anyone who
>> has had this problem on the ZodiacXL tell me what the fix is.
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL,
> RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses |
I built a Lancair and my brother built a Van's RV-7A so we have this debate ALL
the time. Bottom line is who you are. If you like sanding sanding sanding sanding
sanding sanding and a ton more sanding, build fiberglass but if you are
a nuts and bolts guy, build metal.
Zenith is an awesome kit. Buy it, build it, fly it, and have a TON of fun no
matter what you build!!!
You only live once and you ain't getting any younger so DO IT!!
Matt, Jesse, Danny, Mikhail, and Baby Ben Reeves - all airplane builders and
all-around mostly good guys.
Noel Loveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> wrote:
I think in the early days of fibre glass the perception was it was the resin
that gave strength to the glass. In fact the greatest strength is when the
weight of the cloth is and glass is about 70:30 in favour of the cloth. the
problem with this type of light weight glass is it is somewhat porous. To
effectively keep water out or gas in, as the case may be, there has to be a
resilient impervious coating to the glass. If this coating is marred then
there are a raft of un nice things that can happen. Things like water
permeation and then freezing which can cause delaminating of the glass at
the worst possible time.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jim Norton
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 9:42 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: composite vs. aluminum thx for GREAT responses
>
>
>
> Something I did not remember and hence didn't mention. About
> 40 years
> ago I worked in Maine boatyard. Back then there were two common
> idiosycracies in working with fiberglass. One, we noticed a
> number of
> large fiberglass boats that had struck submerged rocks (reefs) split
> right down the keel line. Over the next few design and construction
> changes seemed to have eliminated this problem, or perhaps people
> learned where the rocks were. The second issue was people building
> glass boats tended to use a lot of fiberglass and the earlier
> production
> models were very very heavy. In boat building this was a
> good thing for
> the customer because the boats were virtually bullet proof.
> Those early
> models are still in demand today by commercial fishermen.
> However, with
> light airplanes, (particularly home built) this might be a
> big problem.
> I would guess that it would be hard to estimate if the partially
> completed plane is over weight. A two seater doesn't have a lot of
> payload capacity and 25 extra pounds of glass could easily be
> hidden in
> the plane. Anyway, it looks like the same problems that haunted the
> composite boats 40 years ago haunt the composite planes today. I
> haven't given up on either plane yet, just deciding to wait
> longer and
> get more information. I think that I will begin the 601
> rudder because
> it won't cost me much more than I already spent and I like building
> stuff. I understand there is a whole pile of rudders stored at the
> Zenith plant made by potential customers who have changed their minds.
>
>
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
Don't use dirt. I did that and found out it lets all the moisture through and
rodents and snakes and I HATE SNAKES - (spawns of Satan - kill them all). At
least put down plywood but I'd say pour concrete and put some lights in it.
P.S. when it rains, puddles form in the overhang areas and SNAKES get under and
around and IN it and did I mention I HATE SNAKES - I don't care if they are
friendly pets that you put on a leash, cuddle, and show your friends - KILL them
all.
Matt
Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net> wrote:
Regarding fabric shelter - floor is your choice - dirt, wood, concrete.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102217#102217
---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy latching |
Tracy,
Here is how I fixed mine on the CH600. However, I doubt that most will even
attempt such a fix on a 601 - to much work and to much change to the canopy
area. Note the frame is also roll-over protection.
Each gull wing door has a simple but very effective latch. I will be able to
remove gull doors and fly without them - in fact, test flight will be done
both ways. High power fan tests and fairly fast taxi tests indicate that
slipstream will not enter cockpit due to shape, location and size of
windscreen. Ta Da, it works.
--
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
And we all know what would happen if snakes got into your airplane workshop
unnoticed.....SNAKES ON A M***F*** PLANE!
Sorry, couldn't resist.
On 3/22/07, Matt Reeves <mattreeves@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Don't use dirt. I did that and found out it lets all the moisture through
> and rodents and snakes and I HATE SNAKES - (spawns of Satan - kill them
> all). At least put down plywood but I'd say pour concrete and put some
> lights in it.
>
> P.S. when it rains, puddles form in the overhang areas and SNAKES get
> under and around and IN it and did I mention I HATE SNAKES - I don't care if
> they are friendly pets that you put on a leash, cuddle, and show your
> friends - KILL them all.
>
> Matt
>
> *Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net>* wrote:
>
>
> Regarding fabric shelter - floor is your choice - dirt, wood, concrete.
>
> Tim
>
> --------
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> ______________
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac
> ------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instant Garage |
Hey,
Most snakes are good. Bull Snakes keep pack rats and rattle snakes away as
they eat them. Many snakes eat bugs. Small snakes fly well and remain in
your pocket. Yep! Snakes on A Plane really sucked, but some snakes are fine.
Do Not Archive
Semper Fi,
Steven R. Hulland
CH 600 Taildragger
Amado, AZ
This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned
prior to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus
free email and attachments.
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
> Greetings. I drilled a solid piece of aluminum like
> the drawing said, however I did find that the 1/8
> hole drilled out for the 3/16 hole was in the wrong
> place. The dim. says drill it a half inch from the
> bottom and it doesn't come out in the right place,
> so I made it 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. I used
> a #60 drill bit for a starter and drilled it
> straight first and then changed the angle to get my
> 45 degree hole. I also got brass fittings, they are
> a better fit on the bar. As far as making the face
> on the guage is concerned, I hand painted the
> markings red, yellow and green. I used ordinary
> hobby paints and I masked out the positions with
> contact paper, using an exacto knife I peeled away >
each part of the paper and painted that area,
> letting it dry and then proceeded with the other
> places. If yoiu used the markings on the original
> plate it helps a lot to draw out the areas to be
> painted and a French curve to get the proper arc too
> Do not archive
--- paulrod36@msn.com wrote:
> Re the "sorta like this", illustration, I also made
> a lot of aluminum shavings, trying to properly drill
> the *&^%$ probe. I think, though, that the magic
> comes from the differential pressure generated by
> the square nose of the probe, with the inlets on
> upper and lower sides of the corner of the block of
> aluminum. I put mine on the shelf for a while, but I
> plan to make a probe equivalent to my longest
> drill's flutes, and then mount it with tubes held
> rigidly. May not work, but worth a try.
>
> Paul Rodriguez
> 601XL/Corvair
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: secatur<mailto:appraise1@bigpond.com>
> To:
>
zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 7:05 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Making an LRI probe
>
>
>
<appraise1@bigpond.com<mailto:appraise1@bigpond.com>>
>
> Sorta like this ?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101980#101980<http://forumsmatronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101980#101980>
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan0002_183.bmp<http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan0002_183.bmp>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List>
>
>
>
>
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|