Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:43 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Michael Valentine)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: landing/taxi light location and installation (Jaybannist@cs.com)
3. 06:12 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Paul Mulwitz)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Bryan Martin)
5. 07:33 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (LarryMcFarland)
6. 09:51 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Michael Valentine)
7. 09:57 AM - Re: landing/taxi light location and installation (Michael Valentine)
8. 10:02 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Gig Giacona)
9. 10:56 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/22/07 (Joe)
10. 11:00 AM - Re: Gullwing door--folks only (ashontz)
11. 11:03 AM - Re: Canopy latching (ashontz)
12. 11:10 AM - Re: Canopy latching (Gig Giacona)
13. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: Canopy latching (robert stone)
14. 02:24 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/22/07 (JOHN STARN)
15. 02:53 PM - light on the subject (Big Gee)
16. 03:00 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Big Gee)
17. 03:04 PM - Re: light on the subject (Craig Payne)
18. 03:10 PM - Re: landing/taxi light location and installation (ALAN BEYER)
19. 03:15 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Michael Valentine)
20. 03:18 PM - Re: landing/taxi light location and installation (Bill Naumuk)
21. 03:30 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Bill Naumuk)
22. 04:54 PM - source for tools & stuff (Carlos Sa)
23. 05:01 PM - Loctite 567 (chris Sinfield)
24. 05:07 PM - Re: landing/taxi light location and installation (chris Sinfield)
25. 05:13 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing (Big Gee)
26. 05:54 PM - Re: Loctite 567 (R.P.)
27. 06:10 PM - Re: source for tools & stuff (Craig Payne)
28. 07:18 PM - Re: source for tools & stuff (David Downey)
29. 07:43 PM - 567 data (JOHN STARN)
30. 07:47 PM - Re: source for tools & stuff (JOHN STARN)
31. 07:49 PM - Re: Loctite 567 (David Mikesell)
32. 08:52 PM - Flap Motor Switch (James Sagerser)
33. 09:24 PM - Re: Flap Motor Switch (NYTerminat@aol.com)
34. 09:27 PM - Re: Re: Zenith Rudder Design (Carl Bertrand)
35. 09:27 PM - Re: Re: Making an LRI probe (Carl Bertrand)
36. 10:12 PM - Tail Light Wire Routing / CH701 Rudder Kit (Tom Lutz)
37. 10:22 PM - Belly pod for 701 (Brett Hanley)
38. 10:32 PM - Re: Flap Motor Switch (Craig Payne)
39. 11:22 PM - Re: Tail Light Wire Routing / CH701 Rudder Kit (Bryan Martin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Thanks for the prompt responses Bryan and Jay. My concern is that the place
I opened up the side skin may not be the right place for the rudder cable to
come through. I assume it follows a straight line between two points, but I
don't know those points yet!
Have other people cut the hole in the side skin in the same place as I just
did and then just adjusted the fairings to fit? If so, does the cable run
fine through that hole?
Thanks, Michael in NH
On 3/22/07, Jaybannist@cs.com <Jaybannist@cs.com> wrote:
>
>
> Michael,
>
> As I recall, the fairing must be trimmed, both on the bottom and the top
> to fit properly.
>
> Jay in Dallas
> do not archive
>
>
> "Michael Valentine" <mgvalentine@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Listers - have a problem here and can't figure it out.
> >
> >I measured the hole in my side skin for the rudder cable outlet fairing
> as
> >follows per plans 6-B-4 (08/05):
> >395mm from the back of the fuse to the center of the hole - 20mm wide;
> >8mm high, bottom flush with the top of the lower longeron
> >
> >This measurement conforms to every picture I can see - including the side
> >view and the end view on page 6-B-4.
> >
> >Interestingly, if one looks at 6-B-4(2) - the fairing - and mentally
> moves
> >it up to the side view directly above, it immediately becomes apparent
> that
> >the opening ridge in the fairing is not going to fit properly over the
> >hole. (AKA 20/20 hindsight)
> >
> >Either I am completely missing something, or the plans are wrong. Either
> >way, I need help! BTW, I have already cut the 20x8 hole, so if you tell
> me
> >I have it in the wrong place and should do something different, please
> >suggest fixes as well!
> >
> >
> >Michael in NH
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | landing/taxi light location and installation |
John,
I left the landing/taxi light in the left wing as shown, but I did move it toward
the fuselage one bay, at the suggestion of my EAA technical adviser. I had
a "smile" in the new location that the move took care of. I see no problem moving
it one bay. However, I can't address the move to the other wing. I haven't
gotten to that point yet, but I think it would be easier to make it more
effective for the pilot in the left wing.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>hi list
>i have put together the landing and taxi light frame.
>i want to install it on the right wing and instead of
>on the end, i want to move it inboard one rib.
>is there any problem or things i should consider
>before i cut the wing.
>
>i am using the zenith system
>
>regards
>john butterfield
>601XL corvair
>Torrance, ca
>
>
>
>No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
>with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
>http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Hi Michael,
Did you include the nylon fairlead with the fairing? I think the
fairlead allows for the cable to make a turn from its origin to the
rudder connection point. Even if it is straight at some point, it
will make a turn when the rudder is moved.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 04:42 AM 3/23/2007, you wrote:
>Thanks for the prompt responses Bryan and Jay. My concern is that
>the place I opened up the side skin may not be the right place for
>the rudder cable to come through. I assume it follows a straight
>line between two points, but I don't know those points yet!
>
>Have other people cut the hole in the side skin in the same place as
>I just did and then just adjusted the fairings to fit? If so, does
>the cable run fine through that hole?
>
>Thanks, Michael in NH
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Don't your plans call for a plastic fairlead there? Each rudder cable
passes through two fairleads, one just behind the aileron torque tube
and one where it exits the rear fuselage. The fairleads allow the
cables to be routed through the fuselage without rubbing on each
other or the airframe.
The left rudder cable goes to the right side of the rudder and vice
versa. One cable passes through the front fairlead a little bit
higher than the other to allow it to pass over the top of the other
where they cross in the rear fuselage. There will be a small change
in direction at each fairlead.
The location of the rear fairleads isn't very critical but the closer
you get to the ideal spot, the smaller the change in direction of the
cable and less friction.
On Mar 23, 2007, at 8:42 AM, Michael Valentine wrote:
> Thanks for the prompt responses Bryan and Jay. My concern is that
> the place I opened up the side skin may not be the right place for
> the rudder cable to come through. I assume it follows a straight
> line between two points, but I don't know those points yet!
>
> Have other people cut the hole in the side skin in the same place
> as I just did and then just adjusted the fairings to fit? If so,
> does the cable run fine through that hole?
>
> Thanks, Michael in NH
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Michael,
You should have little if any vertical misalignment, but the horizontal
sweep of the rudder horn will
cause a few degrees rub within your nylon guide at that point. If you
have more than 5 deg vertical out
of track, I'd recommend you find out what that amounts to and make
adjustment to your hole positions.
Should look about the same as the link below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/afairing.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Michael Valentine wrote:
> Listers - have a problem here and can't figure it out.
>
> I measured the hole in my side skin for the rudder cable outlet
> fairing as follows per plans 6-B-4 (08/05):
> 395mm from the back of the fuse to the center of the hole - 20mm wide;
> 8mm high, bottom flush with the top of the lower longeron
>
> This measurement conforms to every picture I can see - including the
> side view and the end view on page 6-B-4.
>
> Interestingly, if one looks at 6-B-4(2) - the fairing - and mentally
> moves it up to the side view directly above, it immediately becomes
> apparent that the opening ridge in the fairing is not going to fit
> properly over the hole. (AKA 20/20 hindsight)
>
> Either I am completely missing something, or the plans are wrong.
> Either way, I need help! BTW, I have already cut the 20x8 hole, so if
> you tell me I have it in the wrong place and should do something
> different, please suggest fixes as well!
>
>
> Michael in NH
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Thank you all for the responses and pictures, but I think I still need a bit
of help. I do have the nylon fairlead there and I understand that it is to
prevent rubbing, but I obviously want to drill the hole in generally the
right place so the rubbing is as little as possible. (Of course, at this
stage I don't really know the precise location of the two points that will
be connected.)
So how about this question: How far above the bottom longeron did you
center the outlet hole?
As I mentioned, my outlet hole is 8mm high and flush with the top of the
longeron - so my answer would be 4mm. I am very concerned that it should
have been higher!
Thanks, too, for the pictures from everyone. Does anyone have a picture of
the opening before they attached the fairing? (ZAC's guide only has a very
close up picture that doesn't show the position, just the shape.)
Michael
On 3/23/07, LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> wrote:
>
>
> Michael,
> You should have little if any vertical misalignment, but the horizontal
> sweep of the rudder horn will
> cause a few degrees rub within your nylon guide at that point. If you
> have more than 5 deg vertical out
> of track, I'd recommend you find out what that amounts to and make
> adjustment to your hole positions.
> Should look about the same as the link below.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/afairing.gif
>
> Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
> Michael Valentine wrote:
> > Listers - have a problem here and can't figure it out.
> >
> > I measured the hole in my side skin for the rudder cable outlet
> > fairing as follows per plans 6-B-4 (08/05):
> > 395mm from the back of the fuse to the center of the hole - 20mm wide;
> > 8mm high, bottom flush with the top of the lower longeron
> >
> > This measurement conforms to every picture I can see - including the
> > side view and the end view on page 6-B-4.
> >
> > Interestingly, if one looks at 6-B-4(2) - the fairing - and mentally
> > moves it up to the side view directly above, it immediately becomes
> > apparent that the opening ridge in the fairing is not going to fit
> > properly over the hole. (AKA 20/20 hindsight)
> >
> > Either I am completely missing something, or the plans are wrong.
> > Either way, I need help! BTW, I have already cut the 20x8 hole, so if
> > you tell me I have it in the wrong place and should do something
> > different, please suggest fixes as well!
> >
> >
> > Michael in NH
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: landing/taxi light location and installation |
That is exactly what I did and ran into no problems. I ran the wires
through a couple small grommets (one in the NR and one in the spar
tip/extension thingy) back out to the tip and then through full length
conduit I installed.
Michael in NH
do not archive
On 3/23/07, john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
> i have put together the landing and taxi light frame.
> i want to install it on the right wing and instead of
> on the end, i want to move it inboard one rib.
> is there any problem or things i should consider
> before i cut the wing.
>
> i am using the zenith system
>
> regards
> john butterfield
> 601XL corvair
> Torrance, ca
>
>
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
I don't have access at the moment to measure it but as you can see from this photo...
http://www.peoamerica.net/N601WR/html/fuselage_1_55.html
...it is significantly higher than flush with the top of the longeron.
I also ended up putting the nylon inside the fuselage. It looked better and made
more since.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102510#102510
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/22/07 |
Hey Dave,
I DO SELL CARS! I own Lakeshore auto sales! How could you tell? !!!
Joe
Time: 09:45:23 AM PST US
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: composite VS Aluminum
From: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@HOTMAIL.COM>
Very well said, Joe. You'd be a good used car salesman.
do not archive
Dave Clay
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Gullwing door--folks only |
Add me too. (ashontz@nbme.org) I'm not up to the fuselage yet, but I want to go
with the gull-wing doors too.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102519#102519
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy latching |
Steve, do you have more pix inside and out of that canopy of yours? I want to build
something similar.
Thanks
marinegunner(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Tracy,
> Here is how I fixed mine on the CH600. However, I doubt that most will even
attempt such a fix on a 601 - to much work and to much change to the canopy area.
Note the frame is also roll-over protection.
> Each gull wing door has a simple but very effective latch. I will be able to
remove gull doors and fly without them - in fact, test flight will be done both
ways. High power fan tests and fairly fast taxi tests indicate that slipstream
will not enter cockpit due to shape, location and size of windscreen. Ta Da,
it works.
> --
> Semper Fi,
> Steven R. Hulland
> CH 600 Taildragger
> Amado, AZ
>
> This and all other incoming/outgoing email, attachments and replies scanned prior
to opening/sending and uses an external firewall to help insure virus free
email and attachments.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102520#102520
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy latching |
Sound like you didn't put enough bend into the frames when you installed them.
I'm at this point now and haven't quite got them where I think they need to be
yet. The bending method as shown in the construction manual. (3 bolts and a vise)
is not the the easiest thing in the world to do.
rstone4(at)hot.rr.com wrote:
> Members,
> My canopy will not latch unless I pull real hard on the backside and then
only the left side from the pilots position will latch on the first stage
only. The right side will not latch at all. Can anyone who has had this problem
on the ZodiacXL tell me what the fix is.
>
> Tracy Stone
> ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 330
> Harker Heights, Tx
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102521#102521
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy latching |
I am not sure if this is a common problem however one of the members
suggested that I shim under the striker plate and I just finished making the
shims out of aluminum 1/8 inch or 250,000. I will install tomorrow and let
all know if this fix works.
Tracy Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 1:10 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Canopy latching
> <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
>
> Sound like you didn't put enough bend into the frames when you installed
> them. I'm at this point now and haven't quite got them where I think they
> need to be yet. The bending method as shown in the construction manual. (3
> bolts and a vise) is not the the easiest thing in the world to do.
>
>
> rstone4(at)hot.rr.com wrote:
>> Members,
>> My canopy will not latch unless I pull real hard on the backside
>> and then only the left side from the pilots position will latch on the
>> first stage only. The right side will not latch at all. Can anyone who
>> has had this problem on the ZodiacXL tell me what the fix is.
>>
>> Tracy Stone
>> ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 330
>> Harker Heights, Tx
>>
>
>
> --------
> W.R. "Gig" Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102521#102521
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/22/07 |
The plaid pants & the pink sportscoat were dead giveaways. 8*) KABONG
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe" <joe@kfiz.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 10:55 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/22/07
>
> Hey Dave,
>
> I DO SELL CARS! I own Lakeshore auto sales! How could you tell? !!!
>
> Joe
>
>
> Time: 09:45:23 AM PST US
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: composite VS Aluminum
> From: "TxDave" <dclaytx2@HOTMAIL.COM>
>
>
> Very well said, Joe. You'd be a good used car salesman.
>
> do not archive
>
> Dave Clay
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | light on the subject |
I have not installed my lights yet, but when I do I am planning on putting the
taxi light in one wing, and the landing light in the opposite wing. My thinking
is, on a dark ramp at night, one could turn on the landing light momentarily
to check for any "hidden" objects.
Fritz do not archive
---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
The hole in the attached picture is much higher than mine is on my airplane. My
hole is just above the longeron. The lower rivets in the outter cover are in
line with those through the longeron.(on my application)
Fritz
Gig Giacona <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net> wrote:
I don't have access at the moment to measure it but as you can see from this photo...
http://www.peoamerica.net/N601WR/html/fuselage_1_55.html
...it is significantly higher than flush with the top of the longeron.
I also ended up putting the nylon inside the fuselage. It looked better and made
more since.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102510#102510
---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
Message 17
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| Subject: | light on the subject |
> .. but when I do I am planning on putting the taxi light in one wing, and
the landing light in the opposite wing.
This also allows you to install a wig-wag module to increase your visibility
in the air.
Any yes, you can wig-wag HIDs:
http://www.aerovisions.com/hid/hid_aircraft_kits.html
http://www.creativair.com/wigwag-flasher-halogen-lamps-p-89.html
-- Craig
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: landing/taxi light location and installation |
Hi John,
I am not sure what the light assemble is used on the "XL". I have an HDS and I
made my own Landing/Taxi light assemble and mounted it in the left wing. I have
about 300 Hrs. on the plane and about 20Hrs. at night. My own feeling is
I would not want the lights mounted in the right wing. My HDS has a nose high
attitude when landing, and if the light were in the right wing the fuselage will
mask the beam of light. During taxi with the light on the left you can also
shine the light on the centerline or the side of the taxiway and get a good
view from the left seat. The "XL" with flaps might keep the nose a little lower,
but I still think you would see better when landing and when you taxi with
it in the left wing.
See Ya,
AL from Oshkosh
--- Original Message ----
From: john butterfield <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 1:30:19 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: landing/taxi light location and installation
hi list
i have put together the landing and taxi light frame.
i want to install it on the right wing and instead of
on the end, i want to move it inboard one rib.
is there any problem or things i should consider
before i cut the wing.
i am using the zenith system
regards
john butterfield
601XL corvair
Torrance, ca
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Thanks Fritz - any problems with yours? Does the cable seem to come through
smoothly without too much angle?
Michael
On 3/23/07, Big Gee <taffy0687@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> The hole in the attached picture is much higher than mine is on my
> airplane. My hole is just above the longeron. The lower rivets in the
> outter cover are in line with those through the longeron.(on my application)
> Fritz
>
> *Gig Giacona <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>* wrote:
>
>
> I don't have access at the moment to measure it but as you can see from
> this photo...
>
> http://www.peoamerica.net/N601WR/html/fuselage_1_55.html
>
> ...it is significantly higher than flush with the top of the longeron.
>
> I also ended up putting the nylon inside the fuselage. It looked better
> and made more since.
>
> --------
> W.R. "Gig" Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this
> ------------------------------
> Bored stiff? <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49935/*http://games.yahoo.com>Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49935/*http://games.yahoo.com>on Yahoo! Games.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: landing/taxi light location and installation |
John-
I did it on my HDS, but I'm not familiar enough with the XL to say,
yeah, go ahead and do it.
My toughest task was to figure out the cut for the lens opening. Also,
don't forget your riblets will have to be mirror image. I could send you a
ton of pictures and information, but there's no telling it's applicable to
an XL.
All I can say is, it took me nearly a month to do the research and
calculations, but I only had to do it once. Take your time.
Good building!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "john butterfield" <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 2:30 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: landing/taxi light location and installation
> <jdbutterfield@yahoo.com>
>
> hi list
> i have put together the landing and taxi light frame.
> i want to install it on the right wing and instead of
> on the end, i want to move it inboard one rib.
> is there any problem or things i should consider
> before i cut the wing.
>
> i am using the zenith system
>
> regards
> john butterfield
> 601XL corvair
> Torrance, ca
>
>
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
Mike-
Just looked at my project, and your dimensions seem right. The only
thing I can think of is, you're not removing all the bearing material
inside the cutout. Only a slot a little wider than the diameter of the
cable on the centerline of the opening.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Valentine
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing
Thank you all for the responses and pictures, but I think I still need
a bit of help. I do have the nylon fairlead there and I understand that
it is to prevent rubbing, but I obviously want to drill the hole in
generally the right place so the rubbing is as little as possible. (Of
course, at this stage I don't really know the precise location of the
two points that will be connected.)
So how about this question: How far above the bottom longeron did you
center the outlet hole?
As I mentioned, my outlet hole is 8mm high and flush with the top of
the longeron - so my answer would be 4mm. I am very concerned that it
should have been higher!
Thanks, too, for the pictures from everyone. Does anyone have a
picture of the opening before they attached the fairing? (ZAC's guide
only has a very close up picture that doesn't show the position, just
the shape.)
Michael
On 3/23/07, LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> wrote:
<larry@macsmachine.com>
Michael,
You should have little if any vertical misalignment, but the
horizontal
sweep of the rudder horn will
cause a few degrees rub within your nylon guide at that point. If
you
have more than 5 deg vertical out
of track, I'd recommend you find out what that amounts to and make
adjustment to your hole positions.
Should look about the same as the link below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/afairing.gif
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Michael Valentine wrote:
> Listers - have a problem here and can't figure it out.
>
> I measured the hole in my side skin for the rudder cable outlet
> fairing as follows per plans 6-B-4 (08/05):
> 395mm from the back of the fuse to the center of the hole - 20mm
wide;
> 8mm high, bottom flush with the top of the lower longeron
>
> This measurement conforms to every picture I can see - including
the
> side view and the end view on page 6-B-4.
>
> Interestingly, if one looks at 6-B-4(2) - the fairing - and
mentally
> moves it up to the side view directly above, it immediately
becomes
> apparent that the opening ridge in the fairing is not going to fit
> properly over the hole. (AKA 20/20 hindsight)
>
> Either I am completely missing something, or the plans are wrong.
> Either way, I need help! BTW, I have already cut the 20x8 hole,
so if
> you tell me I have it in the wrong place and should do something
Message 22
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| Subject: | source for tools & stuff |
Has anybody ordered anything from this company?
http://www.milspecproducts.com
If so, have you had any problems?
Thanks
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
Message 23
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Hi All
I have used loctite 567 for my fuel tank fittings. Its been 3 weeks and I would
have thought that the thread sealent that was exposed to air would have gone
hard, but it has not .. It is still sticky to touch.. Is this how it should be
or have I got a bad tube?
Chris
Down Under
[Question]
XL Jab3300
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102555#102555
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: landing/taxi light location and installation |
Having just put in my landing light, RH wing as per the plans, we found that where
the plans calls for 4 self tappers on each top and bottom , I would reccomend
going back to 5 screws. the gap between the screws was to large and the thin
leading edge skin made a little ripple and did not seal as well. 5 a side would
have made all the difference and only added 2 small self tappers in weight.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102556#102556
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing |
MIke-- I have had my rudder on several times, with the cables connected. I have
not noticed any bad angles to the cables. Do you have the slot (not hole) in
your "nylon" bearing as well? My work was done according to the plans dated
12/02 6-B-4. The only thing I did different was: 6B4 show a long slot in the
rudder cable fairlead, I made an "oval slot" to ensure there was no contact
with the fuselage skin.
Fritz
Michael Valentine <mgvalentine@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Fritz - any problems with yours? Does the cable seem to come through
smoothly without too much angle?
=======================================================
---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
Message 26
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----- Original Message -----
From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 5:01 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Loctite 567
> <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>
> Hi All
>
> I have used loctite 567 for my fuel tank fittings. Its been 3 weeks and I
> would have thought that the thread sealent that was exposed to air would
> have gone hard, but it has not .. It is still sticky to touch.. Is this
> how it should be or have I got a bad tube?
>
> Chris
> Down Under
> [Question]
> XL Jab3300
Chris, the topic of Loctite and cure rates has been brought up recently in
the Yahoo JabiruEngine discussion group. Mostly having to do with disturbing
the bond before it has cured.
Here's what Loctite Corp says about it:
Q: How long does it take for an anaerobic adhesive to dry?
A: Anaerobic adhesives do not contain solvents, which must dry. For an
anaerobic adhesive to cure, it must be in contact with active metal ions and
contact with oxygen eliminated. Outside of a bonded joint, anaerobic
materials will not completely cure. Inside the joint, cure rates can be
controlled by changing product and primer. Heat can be used to accelerate
cure rate.
Message 27
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| Subject: | source for tools & stuff |
> Has anybody ordered anything from this company?
> http://www.milspecproducts.com
If you are looking for an alternative for high-end flush fasteners there is
also this company: http://www.skybolt.com/
I have no direct experience with either company.
-- Craig
Message 28
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| Subject: | source for tools & stuff |
Skybolt has EVERYTHING...
Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote: > Has anybody ordered anything
from this company?
> http://www.milspecproducts.com
If you are looking for an alternative for high-end flush fasteners there is also this company: http://www.skybolt.com/
I have no direct experience with either company.
-- Craig
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
Message 29
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Went to Yahoo, search for "Loctite #567" this is a part of the manufactures
data sheet. KABONG Do Not Archive
LOCTITE 567
June-2004
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
LOCTITE 567 provides the following product characteristics:
Technology Acrylic
Chemical Type Methacrylate ester
Appearance (uncured) Smooth, creamy, off-white pasteLMS
Components One component - requires no mixing
Viscosity High
Cure Anaerobic
Secondary Cure Activator
Application Thread sealing
Strength Low
LOCTITE 567 is designed for the locking and sealing of metal
tapered threads and fittings. The product cures when confined
in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and
prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. The
high lubricating properties of this compound prevent galling on
stainless steel, aluminum and all other metal pipe threads and
fittings. LOCTITE 567 is recommended for industrial
applications in the chemical processing, petroleum refining,
pulp/paper, waste treatment, textile, utilities/power generation,
marine, automotive, industrial equipment, gas compression
and distribution industries. It is also recommended for industrial
plant fluid power systems.
UL Classification
Classified by Underwriters Laboratories Inc. as to fire
hazard only. Loctite PST 567 Pipe Sealant with PTFE. Fire
hazard is small. No flash point in liquid state. Ignition
temperature 465C. For use in devices handling gasoline,
petroleum oils, natural gas (pressure not over 300 PSIG),
propane, and butane. 976P
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: source for tools & stuff |
try www.ReidSupply.com all kinds of "stuff" and you can get their FREE
catalog too. KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: David Downey
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: source for tools & stuff
Skybolt has EVERYTHING...
Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
> Has anybody ordered anything from this company?
> http://www.milspecproducts.com
If you are looking for an alternative for high-end flush fasteners
there is also this company: http://www.skybolt.com/I have no direct
experience with either company.Harleysville (SE) PA Zodiac
601XL/Corvair?
/
Message 31
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It only cures if it exposure to air is removed. Inside the fittings it is
hard, what is exposed to air will not cure fully
David Mikesell
23597 N. Hwy 99
Acampo, CA 95220
209-224-4485
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 5:01 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Loctite 567
> <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>
> Hi All
>
> I have used loctite 567 for my fuel tank fittings. Its been 3 weeks and I
> would have thought that the thread sealent that was exposed to air would
> have gone hard, but it has not .. It is still sticky to touch.. Is this
> how it should be or have I got a bad tube?
>
> Chris
> Down Under
> [Question]
> XL Jab3300
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=102555#102555
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Flap Motor Switch |
I'm in the process of wiring my flap motor for my 701. I have a 12V
Warner Linear Actuator with only 2 wires. The actuator will reverse
it's direction when I switch the 2 leads on my battery +/- terminals.
My question; is there a "rocker" type switch that will work for this
installation and how is it wired? Thanks in advance for any help. Jim
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Motor Switch |
Jim,
You can use a double pole double throw switch. Make sure it is appropriately
rated for your flap motor or you can do it with two relays and a single pole
double throw switch. Check out AeroElectric's website.
Bob Spudis
I'm in the process of wiring my flap motor for my 701. I have a 12V
Warner Linear Actuator with only 2 wires. The actuator will reverse
it's direction when I switch the 2 leads on my battery +/- terminals.
My question; is there a "rocker" type switch that will work for this
installation and how is it wired? Thanks in advance for any help. Jim
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith Rudder Design |
I do not have a problem with the rudder design and the comments made. I do
however pay special attention to the attachments since the loss of the
rudder would most likely render the 701 uncontrolable.
Of all the bolts on the controls, the only one I have changed in 450 hrs is
the top hinge on the rudder. It was noticeably worn after 300 hrs.
Happy STOLing,
Carl
701, 912, amphibs
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
Yes, Bend the lower one 30 degrees down; top as normal pitot.
Carl
701
Message 36
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| Subject: | Tail Light Wire Routing / CH701 Rudder Kit |
I searched the archives for an answer, but alas, could not find one.
I just received my CH701 rudder kit (I feel like a kid on Christmas), and
was wondering about the wiring for the tail light assembly. Section 3 of
the photo assembly guide show how to install the light, but say nothing
about how to route the wires. In addition, the guide makes it seem as if
this can be done easily after the rudder is complete. Is this true? I'd
like to know if I should order the nav/strobe kit before finishing the
rudder, or if I should at least drill holes for the wires.
Reading past posts, I see some people have opted not to install the tail
light, as it may not be required for night flight. Comments?
Thanks!
Tom
Message 37
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| Subject: | Belly pod for 701 |
Check out this link for the belly pod and other cool 701 mods.
http://www.ch701.com/builders/Steve%20Johnston/Steve_Mods.htm
Brett
Do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Flap Motor Switch |
If you really want a rocker switch (as opposed to a toggle) then use the Ray
Allen RS2-5 (not the plain RS2). The RS2-5 is rated for 5 amps while the RS2
is only rated for 1 amp. It costs you $26 but they will throw in the label
for free.
Switch: www.rayallencompany.com/products/switches.html
Labels: half way down on www.rayallencompany.com/products/indsens.html
For a mere $15 you can get a quality DPDT toggle switch here (look for
S700-2-7):
www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?11X358218#s700-2-7
The S700-2-7 is a two pole switch that normally sits with the lever in the
middle and momentarily pushed up or down.
See figure 11-15 of the article below for how to wire any "double pole,
double throw" (DPDT) switch to reverse polarity:
www.aeroelectric.com/articles/switches.pdf
I assume your linear actuator has internal limit switches.
-- Craig
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Light Wire Routing / CH701 Rudder Kit |
The tail light can easily be installed after the rudder is complete.
All you have to do is cut out the opening for the light at the rear
and drill a hole for the wire at the front and fish the wire through.
I decided to put the tail light mounting flange on the inside of the
rudder because I thought it would look better that way. So I had to
install it before riveting the rudder closed. Just the bulging part
of the tail light mount shows on the outside, the flange is
completely hidden.
The tail light is not required if you install wing tip lights with
white lights facing aft. The two white wing tip lights perform the
same function as a single white tail light but with a higher current
draw.
You probably don't want to buy the strobe kits until you are nearly
finished with the plane. the large electrolytic capacitors in the
strobe power supplies tend to fail if they are stored for a long
period of time and not used.
On Mar 24, 2007, at 1:11 AM, Tom Lutz wrote:
> I searched the archives for an answer, but alas, could not find one.
>
> I just received my CH701 rudder kit (I feel like a kid on
> Christmas), and was wondering about the wiring for the tail light
> assembly. Section 3 of the photo assembly guide show how to
> install the light, but say nothing about how to route the wires.
> In addition, the guide makes it seem as if this can be done easily
> after the rudder is complete. Is this true? I'd like to know if I
> should order the nav/strobe kit before finishing the rudder, or if
> I should at least drill holes for the wires.
>
> Reading past posts, I see some people have opted not to install the
> tail light, as it may not be required for night flight. Comments?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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