Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:53 AM - Re: Re: deburing holes (Hunt Malcolm)
2. 01:27 AM - Bailing out of a 601! (Joe)
3. 04:44 AM - Re: xxx Re: xxx Re: Re: Making an LRI probe (Gordon Watkin)
4. 05:59 AM - Re: deburing holes (Phil Maxson)
5. 06:03 AM - Re: Re: deburing holes (David Brown)
6. 07:26 AM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Bryan Martin)
7. 08:01 AM - Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) (rickpitcher)
8. 08:10 AM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Mike Moore)
9. 08:43 AM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Gig Giacona)
10. 08:45 AM - Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) (Gig Giacona)
11. 08:54 AM - LRI probe (john butterfield)
12. 09:14 AM - Re: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight! (TxDave)
13. 09:42 AM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (Dino Bortolin)
14. 10:39 AM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (MacDonald Doug)
15. 10:52 AM - Re: LRI probe (japhillipsga@aol.com)
16. 11:03 AM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (japhillipsga@aol.com)
17. 11:22 AM - Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) (Ron Lendon)
18. 11:54 AM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Terry Phillips)
19. 12:56 PM - For 701 Builder's eyes only.... (Jon Croke)
20. 01:09 PM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (Dino Bortolin)
21. 02:06 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Gig Giacona)
22. 02:09 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Gig Giacona)
23. 03:24 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Tim Juhl)
24. 03:43 PM - Re: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight! (Bill Naumuk)
25. 04:15 PM - Fuel tank dip stick (robert stone)
26. 05:10 PM - Re: Fuel tank dip stick (george may)
27. 05:13 PM - Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) (Robert Schoenberger)
28. 05:17 PM - Re: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight! (Randy L. Thwing)
29. 05:30 PM - Re: LPS 3 As Corrosion Inhibitor (Timothy Croy)
30. 05:37 PM - Fw: canopy notes on install (Juan Vega)
31. 05:40 PM - Re: Fuel tank dip stick (Juan Vega)
32. 05:50 PM - Re: 601xl gear bending (Kelly Meiste)
33. 08:18 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (David X)
34. 09:49 PM - Another Build Table (BobTezyk)
35. 10:44 PM - Re: Another Build Table (TxDave)
36. 11:02 PM - Re: Fuel tank dip stick (xl)
37. 11:11 PM - Re: Another Build Table (BobTezyk)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: deburing holes |
Dear List
I use a hand countersink which is a rose countersink bit in a plastic
handle and cost equivalent of $8 in UK.
Only the slightest pressure is required leaving a hole perfectly
de-burred without risk of damage to the face of the sheet. Works on
4130 but a little more pressure required.
I works for me.
Malcolm Hunt
CH601XL plans builder in England
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel Loveys
Sent: 02 April 2007 23:23
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: deburing holes
I generally use a drill bit somewhat larger than the hole and just turn
it
back and forth between my fingers just enough to remove the burrs. Not
enough to chamfer the holes. I found this faster than using the
commercial
de burring bits. Occasionally I would use one of the inside deburring
tools
when getting at the back of the hole was either difficult or down right
impossible. Deburring with a drill is awkward and there is a good chance
of
chamfering a hole.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ashontz
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 2:26 PM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: deburing holes
>
>
>
>
> Gig Giacona wrote:
> > When I went through the Zenith Rudder Workshop they showed
> me both ways.
>
>
> In my best practices guide from Zenith they say you can use a
> large drill. I don't anymore though. I use die grnider with a
> Scotch-Brite pad or in limited in work area, a file laid flat.
>
> --------
> Andy Shontz
> CH601XL - Corvair
> www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104514#104514
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Your attention is drawn to the fact that this email originated from a
source external to Network Rail.
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nor may it be copied or disclosed to anyone who is
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please notify us by emailing the sender, and then
delete the email and any copies from your system.
Liability cannot be accepted for statements made which are clearly the senders
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Bailing out of a 601! |
My friend Lee had a Cessna 150 Aerobat and I can remember seeing some sort
of quick release door handle on the inside that would remove the door from
the hinges in flight to make it easier for a parachute jump. What in the
world would you do in a 601 XL if you had to bail out in a hurry? Has anyone
ever bailed out of a 601? I remember going up with Lee and betting him a
steak dinner that he couldn't make me sick. I wound up treating at Ponderosa
that night.
I don't know much about the legality of aerobatics because I like to fly
almost straight and level, but for the guys who like that kind of flying
would it be worth it to figure out some kind of a hinge pin system that
would release the canopy from it's hinges in case a bail out was needed? Do
the FAR's require a parachute when doing aerobatics? I have nothing against
that kind of flying, but life is too great and too short to take unnecessary
chances.
Joe in Oshkosh
601XL
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Making an LRI probe |
Hi John,
I am building a 701 and saw your mail on the Matronics. I livein Darwin
Australia and was wondering if you have any probes left. If not are you
making more and how much are they.
Cheers
Gordo.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Bolding
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: e: xxx Re: xxx Re: Zenith-List: Re: Making an LRI probe
OOPS, last message was not for the list, need to wake up before I
hit the send key.
Also wrong pic. Might as well correct for everybody.
First batch of probes went in 3 hrs. another 50 on the way, If
interested send an email and I'll notify you priviatly. All that have
emailed so far are on the list.
Sorry for the confusion John
Message 4
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Simplicity is the key in these small tasks. Over-thinking is the enemy.
I used a 1/4 inch bit, straight from the hardware store, spun in the finger
s supplied the Lord and my Momma. For pieces that won't show, like the ins
ide of a skin, it's quicker to run a file over all the holes at once. Work
s like a charm and no fancy tools to buy.Phil Maxson
601XL/Corvair
Northwest New Jersey
125 hours - Knocking the rust off my flying skills.
> Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: deburing holes> Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 08:46
:27 +0100> From: Malcolm.HUNT@networkrail.co.uk> To: zenith-list@matronics.
orkrail.co.uk>> > Dear List> > I use a hand countersink which is a rose cou
ntersink bit in a plastic> handle and cost equivalent of $8 in UK.> > Only
the slightest pressure is required leaving a hole perfectly> de-burred with
out risk of damage to the face of the sheet. Works on> 4130 but a little mo
re pressure required.> > I works for me.> > Malcolm Hunt> CH601XL plans bui
lder in England> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner-zenith-list-serv
er@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Noel Loveys> Sent: 02 April 2007 23:23> To: zenith-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: deburing holes> > --> Zenith-List message pos
ted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>> > I generally use a drill bit
somewhat larger than the hole and just turn> it> back and forth between my
fingers just enough to remove the burrs. Not> enough to chamfer the holes.
I found this faster than using the> commercial> de burring bits. Occasional
ly I would use one of the inside deburring> tools> when getting at the back
of the hole was either difficult or down right> impossible. Deburring with
a drill is awkward and there is a good chance> of> chamfering a hole.> > N
oel> > > > > -----Original Message-----> > From: owner-zenith-list-server@m
atronics.com > > [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of ashontz> > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 2:26 PM> > To: zenith-list@matro
nics.com> > Subject: Zenith-List: Re: deburing holes> > > > > > --> Zenith-
List message posted by: "ashontz" <ashontz@nbme.org>> > > > > > Gig Giacona
wrote:> > > When I went through the Zenith Rudder Workshop they showed > >
me both ways.> > > > > > In my best practices guide from Zenith they say y
ou can use a > > large drill. I don't anymore though. I use die grnider wit
h a > > Scotch-Brite pad or in limited in work area, a file laid flat.> > >
> --------> > Andy Shontz> > CH601XL - Corvair> > www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
> > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here:> > > > http://forums.matro
nics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104514#104514> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Your attention is drawn to the fact that this em
ail originated from a> source external to Network Rail.> > > > ************
***************************************************************************
*************************************************************************>
The content of this email (and any attachment) is confidential. It may also
be legally privileged or otherwise protected from disclosure.> > This emai
l should not be used by anyone who is not an original intended recipient, n
or may it be copied or disclosed to anyone who is > not an original intende
d recipient. If you have received this email by mistake please notify us by
emailing the sender, and then > delete the email and any copies from your
system.> > Liability cannot be accepted for statements made which are clear
ly the senders own and not made on behalf of Network Rail.> > Network Rail
Infrastructure Limited registered in England and Wales No. 2904587, registe
red office 40 Melton Street London NW1 2EE> *******************************
***************************************************************************
=======> > >
_________________________________________________________________
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u need it.
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: deburing holes |
I take a fine file, break off about a one inch piece, slightly radius
all sides and corners, slide it around like a hockey puck. Works great.
David
I generally use a drill bit somewhat larger than the hole and just turn
it
back and forth between my fingers just enough to remove the burrs. Not
enough to chamfer the holes. I found this faster than using the
commercial
de burring bits. Occasionally I would use one of the inside deburring
tools
when getting at the back of the hole was either difficult or down right
impossible. Deburring with a drill is awkward and there is a good chance
of
chamfering a hole.
Noel
>
> In my best practices guide from Zenith they say you can use a
> large drill. I don't anymore though. I use die grnider with a
> Scotch-Brite pad or in limited in work area, a file laid flat.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
You'd have to rig a mechanism to release the hinge pins, gas cylinder
pins and latch simultaneously, even then you'd probably catch the
canopy in the face as it departed. You could have a BRS system
installed, or rig up some way to jettison just a big chunk of the
plexiglas. Primer cord?
On Apr 3, 2007, at 4:27 AM, Joe wrote:
>
> My friend Lee had a Cessna 150 Aerobat and I can remember seeing
> some sort of quick release door handle on the inside that would
> remove the door from the hinges in flight to make it easier for a
> parachute jump. What in the world would you do in a 601 XL if you
> had to bail out in a hurry? Has anyone ever bailed out of a 601? I
> remember going up with Lee and betting him a steak dinner that he
> couldn't make me sick. I wound up treating at Ponderosa that night.
>
> I don't know much about the legality of aerobatics because I like
> to fly almost straight and level, but for the guys who like that
> kind of flying would it be worth it to figure out some kind of a
> hinge pin system that would release the canopy from it's hinges in
> case a bail out was needed? Do the FAR's require a parachute when
> doing aerobatics? I have nothing against that kind of flying, but
> life is too great and too short to take unnecessary chances.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) |
cookwithgas(at)HOTMAIL.CO wrote:
> Hi Guys:
>
> Having completed my latest batch of LRI probes and mailed them all out
> (thanks to all the buyers), I got back to work on the 601. See the picture
> below for some Major Visual Progress. I've burned through my second can of
> Nuvite F9 and still have one wing to polish.
>
> Enjoy:
>
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/web/4_2_07_Left_Wing.JPG
>
> Scott Laughlin
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
>
>
Looking good Scott!
I flew from WJF to APV over the weekend to have a look at a Zodie that's hangared
there. Nice plane, beautiful paint job.
When I returned to WJF, there was another good-lookin' Zodie 601HDS parked on the
ramp in front of the restaurant. A polished jewel with a bright red nose! Gorgeous!
My poor ol' bird is still flying around mostly raw, with a little paint on the
nose and tail.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104693#104693
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/shine_132.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2zees_323.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
FAR 91.307(c) requires a chute when executing .... acro, except (d) allows performance
of spins, etc without chutes for tests and certain training. Doing it
for fun requires a chute; doing it for training doesn't. Go figure.
Do not archive.
Joe <joe@kfiz.com> wrote:
My friend Lee had a Cessna 150 Aerobat and I can remember seeing some sort
of quick release door handle on the inside that would remove the door from
the hinges in flight to make it easier for a parachute jump. What in the
world would you do in a 601 XL if you had to bail out in a hurry? Has anyone
ever bailed out of a 601? I remember going up with Lee and betting him a
steak dinner that he couldn't make me sick. I wound up treating at Ponderosa
that night.
I don't know much about the legality of aerobatics because I like to fly
almost straight and level, but for the guys who like that kind of flying
would it be worth it to figure out some kind of a hinge pin system that
would release the canopy from it's hinges in case a bail out was needed? Do
the FAR's require a parachute when doing aerobatics? I have nothing against
that kind of flying, but life is too great and too short to take unnecessary
chances.
Joe in Oshkosh
601XL
---------------------------------
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I think we'd probably all be surprised how you could in fact get out of a 601 if
you had to. Unlatch and stand up might work. I'm not saying you wouldn't get
banged up but I think you would be able to get out.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104700#104700
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) |
You are going to go blind flying that thing Scott.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104702#104702
Message 11
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hi list
i am installing my LRI system (probe from Scott) and
wonder where the proper location on the wing should
be. i am installing it on the outboard surface of the
wing rib at the baggage locker location. i can then
adjust it through the lightening hole in the baggage
compartment.
my question is how far back from the main wing spar
should i make the hole. scott has some pictures on his
site, but rather than guess, has anyone acturally
figured out the best place to put it.
i think i read somewhere, that it should be at 52
degrees from the bottom of the wing. i know this is
the starting point, but maybe i have this wrong
john butterfield
601
xl corvair
torrance, ca
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight! |
I'm sure that was a flight you'll never forget. I'm really envious, Randy.
do not archive
Dave Clay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104706#104706
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
I bought the 4" actuator to use on my XL, but I decided against buying the
controller. If any of the wires to the potentiometer in the actuator go open
for any reason, the feedback voltage will be wrong and the controller will
perceive an error between the commanded position and the actuator's current
position. Unless the controller is specifically designed for this situation,
it will attempt to eliminate the position error and drive the actuator to
either the fully retracted or fully extended position. Maybe someone on the
list who has the controller would like to test it and find out what it will
do. I haven't tried one to verify my speculation. For my plane I decided
that a simpler toggle switch will do the job, doesn't have this potential
failure mode, and will fit on the control stick if I want to mount it there.
If you'd like an indicator for the flap position, you can wire the feedback
pot to a Ray Allen indicator, or to a spare analog input on an engine
monitor. I know that the Dynon engine monitor can be configured for a
'flaps' bar graph display. Others probably can too.
Regards,
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
On 4/2/07, MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone purchased one of the linear actuators
> discussed on this list a couple of months ago from
> Surplus Center? I ordered the 2" SPAL actuator (and
> mount bracket) for use on my CH-701 and it arrived
> today. Looks like a well built unit. Much better
> than the plastic one I already had.
>
> ... snip ...
>
> A looked on the SPAL website tonight and checked the
> wiring and specs for the actuator and found the have a
> push button controller. It will give me three presets
> with push button selection. Also according to the
> instructions it is possible to adjust to settings in
> between the presets by pressing 2/3 to extend and 1/2
> to retract.
>
> All told this should cost me about $150.00 with
> shipping. Not too bad of a deal if it works like I
> figure it will.
>
> do not archive
>
> Doug MacDonald
> CH-701 Scratch builder
> NW Ontario, Canada
> Fuse on the gear and working on the controls
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
Another solution to the position problem would be to
install a switch in the power output to the motor that
would be used as a system enable. That way if the
controller did get scrambled, it would be unable to
output to the motor. Simply flip the switch on as
part of your downwind check.
Very good point Dino
Doug MacDonald
--- Dino Bortolin <dbortol@gmail.com> wrote:
> I bought the 4" actuator to use on my XL, but I
> decided against buying the
> controller. If any of the wires to the potentiometer
> in the actuator go open
> for any reason, the feedback voltage will be wrong
> and the controller will
> perceive an error between the commanded position and
> the actuator's current
> position. Unless the controller is specifically
> designed for this situation,
> it will attempt to eliminate the position error and
> drive the actuator to
> either the fully retracted or fully extended
> position. Maybe someone on the
> list who has the controller would like to test it
> and find out what it will
> do. I haven't tried one to verify my speculation.
> For my plane I decided
> that a simpler toggle switch will do the job,
> doesn't have this potential
> failure mode, and will fit on the control stick if I
> want to mount it there.
>
> If you'd like an indicator for the flap position,
> you can wire the feedback
> pot to a Ray Allen indicator, or to a spare analog
> input on an engine
> monitor. I know that the Dynon engine monitor can be
> configured for a
> 'flaps' bar graph display. Others probably can too.
>
> Regards,
> Dino Bortolin
> La Salle, Ontario
>
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
Message 15
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John, you ask for the "best" position for the probe and I really can't say, I can
tell you though where I located mine and that it works well there. I located
it directly behind the main spar, out board of the pitot tube. As such, when
installed the end of the probe extends slightly ahead of the spar under the wing
in clean air. Good luck, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: jdbutterfield@yahoo.com
Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 11:53 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: LRI probe
hi list
i am installing my LRI system (probe from Scott) and
wonder where the proper location on the wing should
be. i am installing it on the outboard surface of the
wing rib at the baggage locker location. i can then
adjust it through the lightening hole in the baggage
compartment.
my question is how far back from the main wing spar
should i make the hole. scott has some pictures on his
site, but rather than guess, has anyone acturally
figured out the best place to put it.
i think i read somewhere, that it should be at 52
degrees from the bottom of the wing. i know this is
the starting point, but maybe i have this wrong
john butterfield
601
xl corvair
torrance, ca
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
________________________________________________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
Gig, the thought scares the hell out of me, but I suppose if you inverted and pushed
the stick forward in a negative G, popped the top and un buckled you might
just fall out. Course, if you had enough control to do this why not land ?
Maybe if flame is an issue it might be a terminal option. Most of us don't where
a parachute. My bigger concern would be how to exit if inverted in the mud
and more likely to happen. Best of Luck, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: wr.giacona@suddenlink.net
Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 11:43 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Bailing out of a 601!
I think we'd probably all be surprised how you could in fact get out of a 601 if
you had to. Unlatch and stand up might work. I'm not saying you wouldn't get
banged up but I think you would be able to get out.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104700#104700
________________________________________________________________________
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| Subject: | Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) |
Hey Scott, Ya wanna use my welding goggles for the test flights? Looking good!
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104718#104718
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I can't remember where I read it, but I've been under the impression that
an essential item for the toolkit for any aircraft with an upward opening
canopy is a small rock hammer, e.g.,
http://www.amazon.com/American-Science-Surplus-ROCK-HAMMER/dp/B000JSA77O
The hammer must very securely mounted in the cockpit, in a place that you
can reach while hanging upside down in your seat belt.
I plan to have one in my XL.
Terry
At 02:03 PM 4/3/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Gig, the thought scares the hell out of me, but I suppose if you inverted
>and pushed the stick forward in a negative G, popped the top and un
>buckled you might just fall out. Course, if you had enough control to do
>this why not land ? Maybe if flame is an issue it might be a terminal
>option. Most of us don't where a parachute. My bigger concern would be
>how to exit if inverted in the mud and more likely to happen. Best of
>Luck, Bill of Georgia
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: wr.giacona@suddenlink.net
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 11:43 AM
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Bailing out of a 601!
>
>
>
>I think we'd probably all be surprised how you could in fact get out of a
>601 if
>you had to. Unlatch and stand up might work. I'm not saying you wouldn't get
>banged up but I think you would be able to get out.
>
>--------
>W.R. "Gig" Giacona
>601XL Under Construction
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
Just starting a 601 kit
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| Subject: | For 701 Builder's eyes only.... |
The next release in the "Building your Zenith CH701" series has just
been released: CONTROLS.
Many, many thanks to the supporters of this series as you all have been
an inspiration for keeping it going!
http://homebuilthelp.com/CH701Controls.htm
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
You could do that, and if you catch a runaway in time, you can stop if from
going any further. But you wouldn't be able to bring it back, unless you put
in another switch to override the controller. At which point, I think it has
turned the elegantly simple into the overly complex. But, that's the beauty
of homebuilts - everyone is free to make it any way that suits them. I still
like a DPDT toggle switch...
Dino Bortolin
On 4/3/07, MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Another solution to the position problem would be to
> install a switch in the power output to the motor that
> would be used as a system enable. That way if the
> controller did get scrambled, it would be unable to
> output to the motor. Simply flip the switch on as
> part of your downwind check.
>
> Very good point Dino
>
> Doug MacDonald
>
> --- Dino Bortolin <dbortol@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I bought the 4" actuator to use on my XL, but I
> > decided against buying the
> > controller. If any of the wires to the potentiometer
> > in the actuator go open
> > for any reason, the feedback voltage will be wrong
> > and the controller will
> > perceive an error between the commanded position and
> > the actuator's current
> > position. Unless the controller is specifically
> > designed for this situation,
> > it will attempt to eliminate the position error and
> > drive the actuator to
> > either the fully retracted or fully extended
> > position. Maybe someone on the
> > list who has the controller would like to test it
> > and find out what it will
> > do. I haven't tried one to verify my speculation.
> > For my plane I decided
> > that a simpler toggle switch will do the job,
> > doesn't have this potential
> > failure mode, and will fit on the control stick if I
> > want to mount it there.
> >
> > If you'd like an indicator for the flap position,
> > you can wire the feedback
> > pot to a Ray Allen indicator, or to a spare analog
> > input on an engine
> > monitor. I know that the Dynon engine monitor can be
> > configured for a
> > 'flaps' bar graph display. Others probably can too.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Dino Bortolin
> > La Salle, Ontario
> >
>
>
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo!
> Games.
> http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I agree most of us don't fly with a parachute though I have thought about doing
so on the first few flights. And fire would be my primary concern and one of
the few that bailing out would be the best option.
With a major structural failure the aircraft is going to probably spinning and
twisting in such a way that getting out isn't an option in any aircraft.
Engine out just land it on the softest and cheapest thing you can find.
But a fire that would not give me time to land before burning up. I'd rather jump
without a chute.
Morgan Hunter who built and I think designed the Corvair Personal Cruiser with
it's forward opening canopy was wearing a chute when he flew into WW Corvair College
10.
Just for the record I'm not saying I think you need a chute in the 601 but I have
thought about it.
japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
> Gig, the thought scares the hell out of me, but I suppose if you inverted and
pushed the stick forward in a negative G, popped the top and un buckled you might
just fall out. Course, if you had enough control to do this why not land
? Maybe if flame is an issue it might be a terminal option. Most of us don't where
a parachute. My bigger concern would be how to exit if inverted in the mud
and more likely to happen. Best of Luck, Bill of Georgia
>
>
> --
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104746#104746
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I was wrong the Corvair Personal Cruiser has a side tilting canopy.
Thought I'd get that in before the rush of e-mail corrections
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104751#104751
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
My L16A has a jettisonable door similar to what was used in the later Citabrias.
The only case I ever heard of where a guy bailed out of such an aircraft was
after the right wing somehow folded over the door after which he kicked out
the windshield and exited. He managed to miss the spinning prop and other major
structures.
The concerns mentioned in other posts to this list are concerns to anyone who flys.
Indeed, the risk of fire is probably greater in some of the high performance
factory made planes than in our homebuilts.
It is always a good idea to imagine what could go wrong and have a plan to deal
with it. Each of us must decide if the risk is worth the benefit. For me, I
plan to keep on flying.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104765#104765
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| Subject: | Re: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight! |
Randy-
Don't want to be a downer, but-
what if an ME109 was right in the middle of your picture window with
tracers coming at you? Think about it.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 1:02 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight!
> Hello Listers:
> This weekend, our EAA Chapter 163 hosted the EAA B-17 "Aluminum
> Overcast" at VGT (North Las Vegas Air Terminal). When the weekend events
> are over, the EAA allows up to 6 Chapter members (no charge) to ride in
> the
> bomber to it's next destination and I got to go. What a experience! I
> got
> to fly in the ship from Las Vegas to Chino, California. The view from the
> Bombadier's seat in the nose is awesome! Sorry for the Goofy look,
> couldn't
> do anything about it, I was having such a great time!
>
> Regards,
>
> Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas do not archive
>
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| Subject: | Fuel tank dip stick |
Members,
I have checked the actives and can find nothing about a fuel tank
dip stick for the standard 12 gallon tank used in the Zodiac601XL. If
any of you have made one up I would like to have enough information to
make one for myself to include gallons or fractions thereof per inch in
the stick.
Some weeks ago I asked for a check list for pre-flight and got
several which I used to develop my own and one of the list items is dip
the fuel tanks since gauges are not always accurate.
Tracy Stone
ZodiacXL
Harker Heights, Tx
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| Subject: | Fuel tank dip stick |
A fuel dip stick is pretty simple to make. I made mine from a piece of oak
3/4 inch wide by 3/16 inch thick by 12 inches long. I drained my tanks and
the proceeded to fill them a gallon at a time. After each gallon, I
inserted the stick (holding it against the rear of the filler opening to try
and insure the stick went in vertically) and drew a line in pen and labeled
it at the top of the wetted area on the stick. Be advised that you probably
will not register any wetness on the stick until you have about 2 1/2 to 3
gallons in the tank. I started my markings at about 3 gallons. Continue the
process until you have the tank filled. That'sabout it
George May
601XL 912s-----59 hours
>From: "robert stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
>To: "Zenith list" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel tank dip stick
>Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 18:14:43 -0500
>
>Members,
> I have checked the actives and can find nothing about a fuel tank dip
>stick for the standard 12 gallon tank used in the Zodiac601XL. If any of
>you have made one up I would like to have enough information to make one
>for myself to include gallons or fractions thereof per inch in the stick.
> Some weeks ago I asked for a check list for pre-flight and got
>several which I used to develop my own and one of the list items is dip the
>fuel tanks since gauges are not always accurate.
>
>Tracy Stone
>ZodiacXL
>Harker Heights, Tx
_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage refinance is Hot. *Terms. Get a 5.375%* fix rate. Check savings
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h2bbb&disc=y&vers=925&s=4056&p=5117
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| Subject: | Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) |
Scott . . . I am totally impressed with your plane. It's almost too
nice to fly! Robert Schoenberger 701 do not archive
Scott Laughlin wrote:
> <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi Guys:
>
> Having completed my latest batch of LRI probes and mailed them all out
> (thanks to all the buyers), I got back to work on the 601. See the
> picture below for some Major Visual Progress. I've burned through my
> second can of Nuvite F9 and still have one wing to polish.
>
> Enjoy:
>
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/web/4_2_07_Left_Wing.JPG
>
> Scott Laughlin
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
> http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Off topic, but a once in a lifetime flight! |
Don't want to be a downer! Don't want to be a downer! Don't want to be a
downer! WELL, If a 109 was doing a head on pass, THAT would have wiped the
goofy grin off my face, BUT I had twin Browning fifties in the cheeks on
either side of me, AND twin fifties under me in the chin turret, AND twin
fifties above me in the top turret, AND I think the twin fifties in the
belly ball turret would clear the chin turret forward. That's maybe 8 guns
brought to bear, the same firpower as a P-47. Maybe we would have had a
chance. But because of the people who went before us, we will never have to
face what they did. It was so incredibly, desperately deadly, but it had to
be exciting. A few of them met us on the ramp when we arrived at chino,
attached is a pic.
Best Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas do not archive
> Randy-
> Don't want to be a downer, but-
> what if an ME109 was right in the middle of your picture window with
> tracers coming at you? Think about it.
> do not archive
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuse/Corvair
> Townville, Pa
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| Subject: | Re: LPS 3 As Corrosion Inhibitor |
Thanks Ben, Tim
On 3/31/07, Ben52425@aol.com <Ben52425@aol.com> wrote:
>
> TIM
> I USED LPS 3 IN MY 182 FOR 24YRS. IN FLOR.DOES A GOOD JOB
> THE BAD SIDE OF IT THAT IT SEEPS THROUGH THE SEAMS
> GOOD NEWS IT DOING IT, S. JOB TO KEEP OUT THE CORROSION.
> GOING TO DO IT IN MY 601
> BEN
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Fw: canopy notes on install |
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Apr 2, 2007 9:06 PM
>To: zenith-list-request <zenith-list-request@matronics.com>
>Subject: canopy notes on install
>
>Y'all:
>
>well as they say in this fun hobby of ours, I am at the point where I am 95% complete,
and I feel like I have 95% to go! Wings are off to the painter since
that will take 2 weeks to get done. I am now complete on the Jabiru Pacific
FWF install for the exception of the oil cooler and the muffler. I have to send
the muffler out to get bent or, cut due to the fact that the muffle on the
two pipe exhuast hit the cowl. Easy fix, just throw money at it.
>
>The big time drain has been the canopy. I urge everyone to get the "get'r done"
itch out of your system before tackling this part of the project , since you
want to TAKE YOUR TIME. PAtience I learned on workinng the canopy is key to
a really nice job or a job that the paint hides lots of mistakes. The recommendation
I make to you friends out there, is to pull the DOs and Don'ts sheet from
the LP plexyglass manufacturer. It basically says, take your time when drilling
the hole, let the drill bit do the work. I invested in having the 1/8
and 5/16 bits filed to a 0 degree angle so that you are not "carving the drill
hole but scraping the drill hole. I high speed drill with good control is key.
Start with a 1/16 pilot drill bit ( prepped by 0 angling the tooth) then startt
on the 5/16th. When you drill the glass, the shards should look like powder,
remember you are scraping the hole open. Think of a hand held flat open
and stroking water. the same effect. Toward the end of the hole being drilled,
easy way up on any pressure.. A good suggestion is to put a 2x4 block on the
back side . When complete with a clean drilled hole, do your self a favor
and take a 6/16th dremmel grinder stone and smooth out the hole, this cleans
the burrs and removes the cut marks that can catch and start a crack. the cone
file on the dremmel actually melts the glass somewhat smooth. smells bad
but look good. Look at your timerman washers at this point. notice they are bigger
that the 5/16 hole. Take advantage and make the hole bigger that the 5/16
so there is play for the washer to move around. where cracks occur is not
mostly in the drilling but when pressure is applied with the dimple of the washer
pressing on the corner of the drilled hole. I know, because I got a one inch
crack at this point where my left shoulder would be if I was sitting in the
pilot seat.
>
>I quick fix is to take you 3/16 (approx) drill bit and drill at the top of the
crack. again smooth out the hole so the crack truly stops at the edge of the
hole. A dab of Clear ATP seals the hole.
>
>When applying the metal trim, take your time and round all corners, it will look
nicer when done with no sharp edges.
>
>IN summary Keys to a clean canopy job:
>1- let the drill bit do the work
>2- prepare the drill bit by filing a used bit to 0 degrees(you can take it to
a tool shop and they can do it for you)
>3- sand the holes smooth
>4- make the holes 1-2mm bigger than they need to be. especially where you dimple
the side metal plates on the canopy. plenty of room to sand the glass bigger
than it needs to be.
>
>5- don't freek out, just take your time
>
>Juan Vega
>601xl/3300 jabiru
Message 31
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| Subject: | Fuel tank dip stick |
the best thing I have seen so far versus the tryed and true Oak stick is the Superhawk
plastic dip stick. you calibrate it to where the gallon shows up on the
dip stick as you fill the tank the first time, then you just dip the stick and
refer to a little chart, and it tells what you gotts.
Oak stick is the best just notch it with a knife at each measurement.
Juan
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: george may <gfmjr_20@HOTMAIL.COM>
>Sent: Apr 3, 2007 8:10 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Fuel tank dip stick
>
>
>A fuel dip stick is pretty simple to make. I made mine from a piece of oak
>3/4 inch wide by 3/16 inch thick by 12 inches long. I drained my tanks and
>the proceeded to fill them a gallon at a time. After each gallon, I
>inserted the stick (holding it against the rear of the filler opening to try
>and insure the stick went in vertically) and drew a line in pen and labeled
>it at the top of the wetted area on the stick. Be advised that you probably
>will not register any wetness on the stick until you have about 2 1/2 to 3
>gallons in the tank. I started my markings at about 3 gallons. Continue the
>process until you have the tank filled. That'sabout it
>
>George May
>601XL 912s-----59 hours
>
>
>>From: "robert stone" <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
>>To: "Zenith list" <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel tank dip stick
>>Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 18:14:43 -0500
>>
>>Members,
>> I have checked the actives and can find nothing about a fuel tank dip
>>stick for the standard 12 gallon tank used in the Zodiac601XL. If any of
>>you have made one up I would like to have enough information to make one
>>for myself to include gallons or fractions thereof per inch in the stick.
>> Some weeks ago I asked for a check list for pre-flight and got
>>several which I used to develop my own and one of the list items is dip the
>>fuel tanks since gauges are not always accurate.
>>
>>Tracy Stone
>>ZodiacXL
>>Harker Heights, Tx
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Mortgage refinance is Hot. *Terms. Get a 5.375%* fix rate. Check savings
>https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h2bbb&disc=y&vers=925&s=4056&p=5117
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: 601xl gear bending |
Guy's
I own a nice 30 ton Enerpac Hydraulic Press.
This machine has a dual acting cylinder (push or pull) with 16 inches of
stroke, along with a very accurate digital readout with peak load recording
capability.
If any one would like to have their blank gear (or anything else) formed let
me know, I'm sure I could save you some money even over the ZAC cost.
Also FWIW, I have a mill & lath both with Sony X / Y digital readouts if you
would like anything machined.
If interested please contact me off list for details.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD (150 hours)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herbert Heaton" <heatonhe36@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: 601xl gear bending
>
> Wade,
>
> I have contemplated the same thing. I calculated the minimum pressure
> required to bend the 3/4" x 8" 6061-T6 would be about 12 ton. The
> hydraulic press brake I can use at work is only 9 ton so I've been looking
> for an alternative solution.
>
> I received a quote from Zenith for part #6G3-1 at $720. If you can get
> it for $570, grab it. The complete gear assembly...Spring Gear, Nose
> Wheel, Main Wheels, Brakes, Tires, Tubes, Master Cylinders came to $2,000.
>
> Consider if you make a bend not quite perpendicular to the edge, you have
> just scraped $213 of aluminum you can't repair. I think I'll get another
> quote from Zenith and if they say $570, I'll buy it and save myself a lot
> of work and frustration.
>
> Herb
>
>
>>From: "wade jones" <wjones@brazoriainet.com>
>>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Zenith-List: 601xl gear bending
>>Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2007 09:23:49 -0500
>>
>>Hello group ,has any of the 601XL scratch builders on this site bent their
>>landing gear .If so ,is it a process they would do again or would they buy
>>it from a source .I have priced the blank piece from Trident ,they quoted
>>a price of $213.00 .The price from ZAC is $570.00 for the finished product
>>.Is this something that can be done from home by welding up a fixture and
>>using hydraulic pressure . Thanks Wade Jones South Texas
>>601XL plans building
>>Cont. 0200
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I'd rather put it down on the ground in a spot where I know it will do no harm
to another, if I could. Seems to me that BRS and a fire extinguisher are better
options than bailing.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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Message 34
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| Subject: | Another Build Table |
Good day all,
Here are pictures of my finished table less wood top and paint. It is made out
of 1.5 in steel tube and turned out level, flat and true. I finally settled
on a leg socket arrangement made up of 1.5 in square tube 4 in long with two 6
in long 1.5 in angle iron welded to it.
The sockets are slightly tapered to account slight misalignments of the top and
bottom socket. To accomplish this, I built a shim out of a piece of scrap square
tube and welded one spot on each side. This was placed in the top of the
socket during welding and knocked out upon completion. The taper allows for
the slight misallignment of the top and bottom sockets and for the tubes to slide
in and out easily. I can change the height of the table by simply cutting
new verticals. The minimum height for the table is 16 in for fuselage work.
One of my neighbors pointed out that I could remove the top and build arms for
the base that fit the sockets to create a rotisserie for painting. Another neighbor
suggested that I get 6 more nuts to lock the jack screws in place so they
do not creep.
Yes, it is overkill but it sure was fun to build. It is an alternative for those
who do not find working with wood fun. The project was something of a Tom
Sawyer adventure. Two of my neighbors learned how to wire weld on it. That is
why many of the welds are sloppy.
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Regards,
Bob Tezyk
N78QT - 601XL QB/ Jab3300
Started on elevator
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Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Another Build Table |
Wow! That is one substantial table, Bob. You could probably build a tank on it.
If you haven't decided on a top yet consider 3/4" MDF. It makes for a very flat,
smooth surface and is great when you need to drill and cleco parts directly
to the table.
Just my humble opinion.
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dip stick |
I don't use a dip stick. I don't think that it would be useful.
When I have about one half of a tank the fuel is at the corner of the
tank. That is as good a measure as a dip stick. I get 4.5 to 5 gph.
If I've flown ~2.4 hrs I see the fuel ~level with the corner (1/2 tank).
At 1/2 of a tank I'm good for 2 hours - if I dare. I have landed with
2 gallons in each tank, but only once. I know that I have over 2 hours
with 1/2 of a tank. So I will make a ~1 hour trip.
Below 1/2 tank the dip stick will read almost 0.
I don't depend on the fuel gauges, I depend on hours flown. Trip legs
of ~2 hours are best for me. I can get back to where I came from.
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
Zodiac 601XL, 431 hours
Jabiru 3300, Sensenich wood prop 64x49
ps. The canopy was a challenge. It took about 15% of the build time.
Total build time for me was 1077.5 hours, 7 months.
pps. I built 633Z in a tent. See: http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/
ppps. Someday I'll finish polishing.
pppps. zenith grin!
On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, robert stone wrote:
> Members,
> I have checked the actives and can find nothing about a fuel tank dip
> stick for the standard 12 gallon tank used in the Zodiac601XL. If any
> of you have made one up I would like to have enough information to make
> one for myself to include gallons or fractions thereof per inch in the
> stick.
> Tracy Stone ZodiacXL
> do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Another Build Table |
Thanks Dave,
I have 2 sheets of 3/4" B-C plywood to go on top already but that is a good thought.
I will do that when it comes time to re-surface.
--------
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
N78QT - 601XL QB/ Jab3300
Started on elevator
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