Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:12 AM - Re: bailing out! (Matt Keyes)
2. 01:17 AM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (Ian McClelland)
3. 04:00 AM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (MacDonald Doug)
4. 04:05 AM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (MacDonald Doug)
5. 05:33 AM - Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Tom Lutz)
6. 06:06 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Aaron Gustafson)
7. 06:17 AM - Re: Round Holes (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
8. 06:17 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (ROBERT SCEPPA)
9. 06:18 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (ROBERT SCEPPA)
10. 06:22 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Tom Lutz)
11. 06:22 AM - Materials List - Empennage (JK)
12. 06:26 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Jim Hoak)
13. 06:49 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Jim Hoak)
14. 07:19 AM - Re: bailing out! (ashontz)
15. 07:21 AM - Re: Re: bailing out! (Bryan Martin)
16. 07:21 AM - Re: Materials List - Empennage (ashontz)
17. 07:28 AM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (ashontz)
18. 07:50 AM - Remote Fuel Cut Off (Paul Mulwitz)
19. 08:02 AM - Re: Another Build Table (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
20. 08:23 AM - Re: Panel thickness (ashontz)
21. 08:41 AM - Re: Another Build Table (BobTezyk)
22. 08:58 AM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Bryan Martin)
23. 09:08 AM - Re: Materials List - Empennage (Gig Giacona)
24. 09:11 AM - Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off (Gig Giacona)
25. 09:49 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Dave Austin)
26. 09:50 AM - Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off (Tim Juhl)
27. 10:10 AM - Re: Fuel tank dip stick (Tim Juhl)
28. 10:12 AM - New HF rivet gun (Brandon Tucker)
29. 10:36 AM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (David Downey)
30. 10:37 AM - Re: New HF rivet gun (Chris Lewis)
31. 11:20 AM - flying the 801 (Keystone Engineering LLC)
32. 11:27 AM - Re: Re: deburing holes (Milburn Reed)
33. 11:43 AM - Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off (ashontz)
34. 11:52 AM - Re: Materials List - Empennage (ashontz)
35. 12:12 PM - Re: Hockey Puck (Zed Smith)
36. 12:31 PM - Sun-N-Fun (ZodieRocket)
37. 12:45 PM - Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off (Tim Juhl)
38. 12:48 PM - Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off (ashontz)
39. 12:51 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! ()
40. 01:15 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Bryan Martin)
41. 01:16 PM - Re: Materials List - Empennage (Gig Giacona)
42. 01:21 PM - Re: Cherokee Six- crash photo (Big Gee)
43. 01:23 PM - Re: Materials List - Empennage (ashontz)
44. 01:26 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Gig Giacona)
45. 01:57 PM - Re: Re: Fuel tank dip stick (Juan Vega)
46. 02:04 PM - Flap Wiring (Lynn & Nancy)
47. 02:14 PM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Edward Moody II)
48. 02:30 PM - Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) (Juan Vega)
49. 02:32 PM - Re: Re: New HF rivet gun (Juan Vega)
50. 03:19 PM - Re: Flap Wiring (Craig Payne)
51. 03:40 PM - Re: Another Build Table (burbby)
52. 04:40 PM - Re:Remote Fuel Cut Off (MaxNr@aol.com)
53. 04:55 PM - Re: Fuel tank dip stick (Tim Juhl)
54. 04:59 PM - Re: Re:Remote Fuel Cut Off (n801bh@netzero.com)
55. 05:32 PM - Re: Re: Fuel tank dip stick (n282rs@satx.rr.com)
56. 05:55 PM - Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement (Ron Lendon)
57. 06:08 PM - Re: Materials List - Empennage (Ron Lendon)
58. 06:11 PM - Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Southern Reflections)
59. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Southern Reflections)
60. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Bryan Martin)
61. 06:30 PM - Re: Re: Fuel tank dip stick (Bryan Martin)
62. 06:43 PM - Re: Re: Bailing out of a 601! (Southern Reflections)
63. 08:03 PM - Re: Flap Wiring (Lynn & Nancy)
64. 08:13 PM - My 601HD still for sale: Reminder (zodieman)
65. 10:34 PM - First wing complete (TxDave)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: bailing out! |
I have had the same thought about egress from a Zodiac in the case of a water landing.
Most water ditching in wheeled planes flips the plane upside down. How
would someone open the canapy with the full force of water against it after
just being turned on one' s head? Who would be willing to wait for the plane
to slowly fill with water while sinking to try to get the canapy open. I wonder
if a slider mod would solve both questions and be worth the weight and added
complications?
Matt Keyes
---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
Anyone got the URL for the surplus center?
Ian McClelland
601XL
Wing construction underway.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
Again, good points Dino. I'll have to play with the
controller once it arrives and make sure I'm not going
to induce a safety issue.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario , Canada
do no archive
--- Dino Bortolin <dbortol@gmail.com> wrote:
> You could do that, and if you catch a runaway in
> time, you can stop if from
> going any further. But you wouldn't be able to bring
> it back, unless you put
> in another switch to override the controller. At
> which point, I think it has
> turned the elegantly simple into the overly complex.
> But, that's the beauty
> of homebuilts - everyone is free to make it any way
> that suits them. I still
> like a DPDT toggle switch...
>
> Dino Bortolin
>
> On 4/3/07, MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >
> <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Another solution to the position problem would be
> to
> > install a switch in the power output to the motor
> that
> > would be used as a system enable. That way if the
> > controller did get scrambled, it would be unable
> to
> > output to the motor. Simply flip the switch on as
> > part of your downwind check.
> >
> > Very good point Dino
> >
> > Doug MacDonald
> >
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
http://www.surpluscenter.com
Doug MacDonald
This should be committed to the archive
--- Ian McClelland <macstar@raider.co.nz> wrote:
> <macstar@raider.co.nz>
>
> Anyone got the URL for the surplus center?
>
> Ian McClelland
> 601XL
> Wing construction underway.
>
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very closely,
are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by Zenith and a Dewalt
110V drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we learn by asking, right?
Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement? I'm looking for
clearance dimensions to get all the parts out with ease. I imagine I'd be
screwed come time for the engine and rudder attachment, but that's not an
immediate concern. Currently, I access my basement from outside the house.
The stairs that go to the basement turn 90 degrees at the bottom, so
obviously that would have to change. I can imagine getting the wings out of
the basement, but I'm not sure at all about the fuselage. What size door
would I need?
Thanks,
Tom
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
A hole drilled with a fluted bit comes out somewhat triangle shaped
because there is not enough self guiding with the bit itself.
I built my entire 601 in my basement. Right from the start I planned on
putting a large door in to get it out. In 2000 as part of a kitchen
addition project, I installed a home made Bilco type door that cranks up
with a boat winch. It's 8 feet wide and 7' 4" high. I've had the plane
out 3 times so far.
Aaron Gustafson Soon to take it out for the last time! do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:32 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Round Holes / Workshop in basement
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very
closely, are not perfectly round?
Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement?
Message 7
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Hello Tom:
You ask an excellent question; I chased this 'problem' as well.
I was using quality drill bits and a fast air drill, and my drilled holes
were not round either. At least, not 'perfectly' round. I was drilling with
a
#30 drill bit for the horizontal stabilizer and I wasn't happy with the
results until I starting drilling pilot holes with a #40 bit and voila! - ROUND
holes !!
Fortunately, rivets (when installed properly) expand to fill those irregular
holes.
For the small drill bits we are using, try to get a small, light, FAST drill
motor for best results.
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601XL N458XL (reserved)
In a message dated 4/4/2007 7:34:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tommylutz@gmail.com writes:
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very closely,
are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by Zenith and a Dewalt 110V
drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we learn by asking, right?
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
> RJS/701
> TOM, sit down. It doesn't matter about the holes
> being perfectly round, its going to be filled by a
> rivet. OK that said, figure out what size space you
> need to build your project. My garage is only 10'
> by 14' I'm ging to have to build my fuse in two
> sections. I have an enclosed screen patio shed in
> my back yard to store any part of the project till
> I'm ready to assemble. So you have to make choices
> and if you got to widen doorways or build add-ons.
> It has to be done. I have known people that have
> built their planes in bedrooms, seriously! So any
> questions feel free to email me. I'm going to take
> some pics soon and maybe compare notes. Do not
> archive.
--- Tom Lutz <tommylutz@gmail.com> wrote:
> Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
> Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if
> examined very closely,
> are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by
> Zenith and a Dewalt
> 110V drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we
> learn by asking, right?
>
> Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement?
> I'm looking for
> clearance dimensions to get all the parts out with
> ease. I imagine I'd be
> screwed come time for the engine and rudder
> attachment, but that's not an
> immediate concern. Currently, I access my basement
> from outside the house.
> The stairs that go to the basement turn 90 degrees
> at the bottom, so
> obviously that would have to change. I can imagine
> getting the wings out of
> the basement, but I'm not sure at all about the
> fuselage. What size door
> would I need?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
> RJS/701 rjscep@yahoo.com
> TOM, sit down. It doesn't matter about the holes
> being perfectly round, its going to be filled by a
> rivet. OK that said, figure out what size space you
> need to build your project. My garage is only 10'
> by 14' I'm ging to have to build my fuse in two
> sections. I have an enclosed screen patio shed in
> my back yard to store any part of the project till
> I'm ready to assemble. So you have to make choices
> and if you got to widen doorways or build add-ons.
> It has to be done. I have known people that have
> built their planes in bedrooms, seriously! So any
> questions feel free to email me. I'm going to take
> some pics soon and maybe compare notes. Do not
> archive.
--- Tom Lutz <tommylutz@gmail.com> wrote:
> Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
> Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if
> examined very closely,
> are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by
> Zenith and a Dewalt
> 110V drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we
> learn by asking, right?
>
> Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement?
> I'm looking for
> clearance dimensions to get all the parts out with
> ease. I imagine I'd be
> screwed come time for the engine and rudder
> attachment, but that's not an
> immediate concern. Currently, I access my basement
> from outside the house.
> The stairs that go to the basement turn 90 degrees
> at the bottom, so
> obviously that would have to change. I can imagine
> getting the wings out of
> the basement, but I'm not sure at all about the
> fuselage. What size door
> would I need?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
Aaron,
Thanks for the informative response. Glad to hear I'm not crazy. I did
notice that some of the holes were slightly triangular.
I guess it's time to look into some contractors that can get the job done
without breaking the bank.
Tom
On 4/4/07, Aaron Gustafson <agustafson@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
> A hole drilled with a fluted bit comes out somewhat triangle shaped
> because there is not enough self guiding with the bit itself.
>
> I built my entire 601 in my basement. Right from the start I planned on
> putting a large door in to get it out. In 2000 as part of a kitchen addition
> project, I installed a home made Bilco type door that cranks up with a boat
> winch. It's 8 feet wide and 7' 4" high. I've had the plane out 3 times so
> far.
>
> Aaron Gustafson Soon to take it out for the last time! do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Tom Lutz <tommylutz@gmail.com>
> *To:* zenith-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:32 AM
> *Subject:* Zenith-List: Round Holes / Workshop in basement
>
>
> Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
> Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very closely,
> are not perfectly round?
>
> Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement?
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Materials List - Empennage |
I have been researching the 601 series for years. I have a quick
question though. I don't have a copy of the 601 plans in front of me,
however about to pick a set up.
If I were building the Empennage for the 601 (HD/HDS) is there
material list anyone has? Primarily I'm looking for information on how
many sheets of aluminum would be required?
I know that I have seen a similar material list somewhere online at
one point. I assume the list would be very close to the XL.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
JK
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
Tom,
I too used a 110 volt Dewalt to build my 601HD. You are correct on the
out-of-round holes. The best way of avoiding this is sharp drill bits,
the correct drill speed, correct pressure on the bit and where possible
the metal should be backed up when drilling. Thin metal makes this worse
too.
I built the HD in the basement. Built the entire thing there except I
did not rivet ( used many clecoes ) key pieces so that it could be
dissasemmbled and it would go out the door. Brought it out through a
standard 36" door. The tightest fit was the forward fuselage with the
centersection and the firewall attached. Note: if you are building a XL
then things will be different ( no center section ). I left the top
piece of metal forward of the instrument panel off too, till later. Had
to turn it up 90 degrees so the the center section was vertical going
through the door. Also had to maneuver the firewall around to get it
out.
I had left the aft fuselage unriveted at the splice at the aft edge of
the cockpit. This allowed the fuselage aft section to be brought out the
standard door easily. Also had not riveted the turtle deck pieces till
later although all had been drilled and fitted. I transferred i/2 of my
work table ( it was made in two joined pieces ) to the garage and did
the final assembly there. It took only three of us a couple of hours to
do the complete transfer and then have it all set up, clecoed and ready
for final riveting in the garage. The main thing was I had measured to
be sure this would all work before hand. Good thing it did!!
Good luck with yours.
do not archive
Jim Hoak - 601HD - Rotax 912UL - 541 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:32 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Round Holes / Workshop in basement
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very
closely, are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by Zenith and
a Dewalt 110V drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we learn by
asking, right?
Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement? I'm looking for
clearance dimensions to get all the parts out with ease. I imagine I'd
be screwed come time for the engine and rudder attachment, but that's
not an immediate concern. Currently, I access my basement from outside
the house. The stairs that go to the basement turn 90 degrees at the
bottom, so obviously that would have to change. I can imagine getting
the wings out of the basement, but I'm not sure at all about the
fuselage. What size door would I need?
Thanks,
Tom
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
Tom,
Forgot one thing about the out-of-round holes. I agree with Aaron about
the pilot holes. I too drilled every hole with a #40 bit first and then
stepped them up. This is the procedure we teach at the basic sheet metal
workshop at Sun N Fun. This is the procedure I have used in doing metal
work for many years. It takes more time but produces a better product -
usually!!
do not archive
Jim Hoak
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:32 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Round Holes / Workshop in basement
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very
closely, are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by Zenith and
a Dewalt 110V drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we learn by
asking, right?
Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement? I'm looking for
clearance dimensions to get all the parts out with ease. I imagine I'd
be screwed come time for the engine and rudder attachment, but that's
not an immediate concern. Currently, I access my basement from outside
the house. The stairs that go to the basement turn 90 degrees at the
bottom, so obviously that would have to change. I can imagine getting
the wings out of the basement, but I'm not sure at all about the
fuselage. What size door would I need?
Thanks,
Tom
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: bailing out! |
More good reasons to go with a gull-wing canopy.
[quote="keyesmp(at)yahoo.com"]I have had the same thought about egress from a Zodiac
in the case of a water landing. Most water ditching in wheeled planes flips
the plane upside down. How would someone open the canapy with the full force
of water against it after just being turned on one' s head? Who would be
willing to wait for the plane to slowly fill with water while sinking to try
to get the canapy open. I wonder if a slider mod would solve both questions and
be worth the weight and added complications?
Matt Keyes
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick ( http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/?fr=oni_on_mail&#news) in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut. ( http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/?fr=oni_on_mail&#news)
> [b]
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104866#104866
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: bailing out! |
http://www.equipped.org/ditchingmyths.htm
According to this article, there's no evidence that most wheeled
aircraft flip over during a ditching. In any case, the canopy latch
should be released before impact. As long as the airplane is moving
through the air, the canopy will not close on it's own. I suspect
that the impact with the water will cause the canopy to flip wide
open if it's already unlatched. I also carry a tool in the cabin that
I can use to break the canopy to escape, just in case. The article
also states that the successful egress rate is over 90% for small
aircraft ditchings. Getting out of the airplane is one thing,
surviving in the water afterwards is another.
On Apr 4, 2007, at 4:10 AM, Matt Keyes wrote:
> I have had the same thought about egress from a Zodiac in the case
> of a water landing. Most water ditching in wheeled planes flips
> the plane upside down. How would someone open the canapy with the
> full force of water against it after just being turned on one' s
> head? Who would be willing to wait for the plane to slowly fill
> with water while sinking to try to get the canapy open. I wonder
> if a slider mod would solve both questions and be worth the weight
> and added complications?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Materials List - Empennage |
Sounds like you need to just start building instead of over thinking it. It's about
$400 worth of materials I'd say to build the stabilizer, elevator, and rudder.
[quote="jk(at)amplebyte.com"]I have been researching the 601 series for years.
I have a quick
question though. I don't have a copy of the 601 plans in front of me,
however about to pick a set up.
If I were building the Empennage for the 601 (HD/HDS) is there
material list anyone has? Primarily I'm looking for information on how
many sheets of aluminum would be required?
I know that I have seen a similar material list somewhere online at
one point. I assume the list would be very close to the XL.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
JK
> [b]
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104867#104867
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I'd imagine the bubble canopy would be pretty damn hard to open in flight considering
fighter planes have the canopy hinge on the back to allow the canopy to
go sailing back into the breeze when the guy jettisons. You'd think the canopy
would have lift and would want to rise up on the front hinge, but it's probably
counter-intutive (to a pilot anyway) and gets push down instead. More reasons
for a gull wing door with break-away hinges, just pull the hinge pin with
a big loop on the end and you're out.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104871#104871
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| Subject: | Remote Fuel Cut Off |
All the talk about in flight fires reminded me of a discussion I
heard many years ago. It mentioned some sort of fuel tank connection
that cut off fuel flow if the wings separate from the fuselage. The
discussion involved forced landings that nearly always result in
fires because these simple devices were not installed in Wichita.
Does anybody know of a neat way to isolate the fuel tanks? This
would be handy for emergency landings and also for in flight fire situations.
Paul
XL fuselage
-
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Another Build Table |
Hello Bob:
That is quite a work table !!! I don't think I've ever seen anything quite
so hefty and stout.....
....oh wait !! I think I see the prototype of your table in the bottom of
pic here...
(scroll down.....)
Just Kidding !!!!
That's a great looking table frame !!!! Good work !!!
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
Definitely Do Not Archive !!!!
In a message dated 4/3/2007 11:50:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bob@eaglesnestestates.org writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "BobTezyk" <bob@eaglesnestestates.org>
Good day all,
Here are pictures of my finished table less wood top and paint. It is made
out of 1.5 in steel tube and turned out level, flat and true. I finally
settled on a leg socket arrangement made up of 1.5 in square tube 4 in long with
two 6 in long 1.5 in angle iron welded to it.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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| Subject: | Re: Panel thickness |
Gig Giacona wrote:
> Obviously most agree that .025 is too flimsy.
>
> If you use .063 material for the panel and a couple of vertical stiffeners behnd
the panel between instruments it'll be okay.
>
> I used half-by-half aluminum angle (1/8" thickness) riveted with A5s from the
front. Looks okay.
> There were a couple of places where the angle is cut out a bit to clear instruments.
The verticals are mounted about 1/3 distance from each side, instrument
size and layout dictating actual brace location. The instrument holes were
punched with appropriately-sized Greenlee punches. Put the big half of the punch
on the back side for this, otherwise you'll have tool marks on the front
that even crackle paint may not hide.
>
> Bent the bottom flange 2" in a brake, cut the top edge rounded per plans, then
had a professional welder TIG a 2-inch-wide strip of .063 across the top. The
wider flange & top shouldn't interfere with other items but does add some resistance
to wayward knees at the bottom.
>
> With the holes cut and vertical braces in place there was no flexing. Once mounted
in the airframe it is solid and instruments don't sag from their own weight.
>
> If I had it to do again I might build a "frame" only and mount it, then make
the flat panel with stiffeners to attach to the frame with Cam Locks or a hinge
or chewing gum or something. Attachment points would eat up some panel space.
>
> Regards to all,
>
> Zed/701/912/BR549/etc
>
> Why in God's name would you not want that archived? You don't have to answer
it is now.
I thought about that too. Seems like a good idea to be able to pull the entire
panel out if need be, kind of like the old Navy and NASA rocket launch panels
you'd see the Apollo launch personell holding onto those hand grips while fretting
over Apollo 13. Those weren't 'oh shit' bars, they were there so that a technician
could undo a few screws and pull the whole panel out for service. Seems
like a nice feature to have in a small plane instead of hanging upside down
trying to do wiring and whatnot.
do not archive
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104880#104880
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| Subject: | Re: Another Build Table |
Tracy,
Your right! I modified the blueprints from a Liberty Ship!
I knew I was going to take a ribbing for the overkill factor but that's OK. I'm
tough. I can take it. I'll just sit in the corner chewing nails and spitting
out battleships.
Do not archive
--------
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
N78QT - 601XL QB/ Jab3300
Started on elevator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104885#104885
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
The canopy will open in flight but not very far. I have had one side
come loose in flight a few times due to not fully latching it before
take-off and it's difficult, if not impossible to re-latch it in
flight. It does want to lift up away from the rail. I believe someone
reported on this list that they unlatched the canopy in flight once
and it opened several inches and stayed there and caused no serious
problem.
On Apr 4, 2007, at 10:28 AM, ashontz wrote:
>
> I'd imagine the bubble canopy would be pretty damn hard to open in
> flight considering fighter planes have the canopy hinge on the back
> to allow the canopy to go sailing back into the breeze when the guy
> jettisons. You'd think the canopy would have lift and would want to
> rise up on the front hinge, but it's probably counter-intutive (to
> a pilot anyway) and gets push down instead. More reasons for a gull
> wing door with break-away hinges, just pull the hinge pin with a
> big loop on the end and you're out.
>
> --------
> Andy Shontz
> CH601XL - Corvair
> www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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| Subject: | Re: Materials List - Empennage |
What you are looking for should be right here. http://ch601.org/builder%20resources.htm
And no he's not over thinking he was just asking for a list of materials.
That said if you aren't experienced in this kind of thing I'd strongly suggest
you go to the factory workshop. Details are at the Zenith site.
[quote="jk(at)amplebyte.com"]I have been researching the 601 series for years.
I have a quick
question though. I don't have a copy of the 601 plans in front of me,
however about to pick a set up.
If I were building the Empennage for the 601 (HD/HDS) is there
material list anyone has? Primarily I'm looking for information on how
many sheets of aluminum would be required?
I know that I have seen a similar material list somewhere online at
one point. I assume the list would be very close to the XL.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
JK
> [b]
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104892#104892
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| Subject: | Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off |
I geuss you could add a couple of cut off valves where the fuel lines come into
the fueselage.
p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att wrote:
> All the talk about in flight fires reminded me of a discussion I
> heard many years ago. It mentioned some sort of fuel tank connection
> that cut off fuel flow if the wings separate from the fuselage. The
> discussion involved forced landings that nearly always result in
> fires because these simple devices were not installed in Wichita.
>
> Does anybody know of a neat way to isolate the fuel tanks? This
> would be handy for emergency landings and also for in flight fire situations.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
>
>
> -
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104893#104893
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
Tom,
You can build the fuselage in sections using clecos, then dissemble and
take out to the garage for assembly and rivetting, which is what I did.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 8:32 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Round Holes / Workshop in basement
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very
closely, are not perfectly round? I'm using bits supplied by Zenith and
a Dewalt 110V drill. This is probably a non-issue, but we learn by
asking, right?
Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement? I'm looking for
clearance dimensions to get all the parts out with ease. I imagine I'd
be screwed come time for the engine and rudder attachment, but that's
not an immediate concern. Currently, I access my basement from outside
the house. The stairs that go to the basement turn 90 degrees at the
bottom, so obviously that would have to change. I can imagine getting
the wings out of the basement, but I'm not sure at all about the
fuselage. What size door would I need?
Thanks,
Tom
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| Subject: | Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off |
If the wings separate from the aircraft the only risk of fire comes from the fuel
remaining in the lines within the fuselage :-) In my years chasing missing
airplanes for the CAP the only accidents I remember where there was a post crash
fire were ones where the occupants did not survive the impact. If you can
maintain control of your aircraft until control is taken away from you there
is a good chance that you will survive. Shedding wings and other pieces during
a forced landing in rough terrain can actually help reduce the crash forces.
Shutting off fuel and electrics prior to impact can help as well.
I've attached a pix of a cherokee six that crashed recently in northern Michigan.
All survived albeit with injuries. The pilot put it into the woods after
the engine lost power.... he used his cell phone to direct rescuers to his location.
Fly safe!
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104908#104908
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/crash1_187.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dip stick |
Being an old chemistry teacher I modeled my dipstick on a measuring pipette. I purchased a couple of feet of rigid plastic tubing from aircraft spruce (you need enough to reach the bottom of the tank and grip at the top.) I added fuel until there was enough to show in the bottom of the tube (whole gallons, not fractions) noted the amount and marked the tube with a scratch (used a triangular file.) From there I added fuel a gallon at a time and marked the stick at each gallon until full. For those who have not used a pipette, you insert the tube, cover the top hole with your finger and lift the tube out. The fuel will remain in the tube long enough for you to get a reading. A 1/8th inch center opening works best - see http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/acryltube.php
To finish the job I used a tubing cutter to score a shallow ring around the tube
at each mark. I then used a cheap vibrating engraver to mark the gallons next
to each line.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104913#104913
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| Subject: | New HF rivet gun |
Gents,
Has anyone tried this rivet gun yet?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
My $39 HF gun built the entire plane, and is still working great.
It is a little heavy, but not too bad. If this one is durable enough, it might
be a good buy
R/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
80 hours
---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
the other thing you can do is drill with 1/8" then final drill with #30 (or 5/32
followed by #20 or #21 (whichever it is!)). You will find that the bur generated
is minor and the circularity of the holes is much better - just make sure
that you indeed do drill to size before installing the rivets or they will weaker
than design. That is why the common practice is to use 3/32 then #30 - the
size error is obvious.
Tom Lutz <tommylutz@gmail.com> wrote: Aaron,
Thanks for the informative response. Glad to hear I'm not crazy. I did notice
that some of the holes were slightly triangular.
I guess it's time to look into some contractors that can get the job done without
breaking the bank.
Tom
On 4/4/07, Aaron Gustafson <agustafson@chartermi.net> wrote: A hole drilled
with a fluted bit comes out somewhat triangle shaped because there is not
enough self guiding with the bit itself.
I built my entire 601 in my basement. Right from the start I planned on putting
a large door in to get it out. In 2000 as part of a kitchen addition project,
I installed a home made Bilco type door that cranks up with a boat winch. It's
8 feet wide and 7' 4" high. I've had the plane out 3 times so far.
Aaron Gustafson Soon to take it out for the last time! do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Lutz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:32 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Round Holes / Workshop in basement
Here's me being inquisitive and picky again:
Has anyone else ever noticed that drilled holes, if examined very closely, are
not perfectly round?
Also, has anyone built a Zenith in his/her basement?
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
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| Subject: | Re: New HF rivet gun |
Try this link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber-173
Looks interesting to me. I have the "old" HF unit and it works great, but lighter
weight would ne nice.
Chris in Seattle
--------
701 Scratch Builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104921#104921
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Kathy and Jeff
Here is a letter I wrote a couple of years ago. It is as true now as it was them.
If you would like a couple of hours in a 801 come on up and I would be happy
to give you a ride.
Pay special attention to the no flaps in a cross wind!!!! This will get you in
trouble fast!
Bill
I'm really enjoying the 801. I'm have been thinking of writing a lessons learned
article this winter. The 801 jumps into the air! I'm very pleased with that.
Even at gross it doesn't seem like you are driving a truck trying to take
off. Most of my experience is in a PA22 and PA20. When they get heavy they
take forever to get into the air!
I have not nicked my prop. The ground clearance is incredible!
In Alaska you are required by law and good sense to carry survival gear. My sleeping
bags and dried food are behind the back seat on the sides of the control
tunnel. It is a perfect extended baggage for light stuff. It is accessible
from the access panel in the bottom.
I did the no slot modification that Jim Frisby and Ben Hass put together. Ben
sent me the parts; it was simple and better than the factory instructions. I
really like the thought of not having a slot to accumulate snow and slush in the
controls.
Things I wish were different:
All the air goes over the wing. It is a rough ride in turbulence! Realize I live
in a mountainous area. The "bowl" is 4 miles by 10 miles with 6000' mountains
on all sides. And the wind blows.
The only other thing I have is, I like going to the beaches. You cannot raise
the nose with power. You need to be going 35-40 mph before the nose comes up.
When it does come up you are flying. I'm planning on building and installing
the wider tail this winter. I made and installed VGs last weekend and perhaps
they were not big enough or aggressive enough but they did not help enough
to justify flying the 5 hours off. The VG are now on and will remain on the horizontal
tail. I highly recommend you install VGs on the bottom of the horizontal
stabilizer. The VGs made a lot more difference than the larger horizontal
stabilizer kit from ZAC.
When you land on a beach that is too soft, conventional wisdom says, fire wall
it and suck the stick back. You will either end up in the air or stopped on the
very soft beach right side up at full power. I don't know if the 801's elevator
is effective enough at slow speeds to keep the nose up until you get stopped.
Thank goodness I have not gone on that soft of a beach this summer... hopefully
I never will again. I bent the main gear last year after hitting a rock
taking off a soft beach last year.
Lessons learned:
It is a rudder airplane! You cannot have lazy feet! Step on the ball!
I almost got caught a couple of times before I quit using flaps in a cross wind.
At slow speeds with full flaps the adverse yaw is significant and the effectiveness
of the flaperons diminishes! I almost had a whole bunch of AL parts
littering the beach figuring this out. It was one of those, "there I was" 10'
in the air with full elevator, full rudder and full flaperon deflection and...!...
I came around the next time without flaps and landed with no problem.
A 10 mph cross wind is not a big deal at 60 knots or 70 mph but at 40 mph it is
a big deal!
I had problems with the tires. I up sized to 8.50x6.00 tire and I finally drilled
a new hole in the rim and put in standard tubes. No problem since then.
The airframe is bullet proof. I have done 4 condition inspections. No significant
problems. Although cylinder number 2 uses a little oil ;+}. Well I changed
out cylinder 2 and 3 about 100 hrs ago, because of oil usage. I have had problem
with the flaperon rods rubbing under the back seat and one fuel tank leak...
other than that, any problems I have had have been attributable to operator
error.
The airframe oil cans when you go slow. It is kind of a stall warning. I installed
weather stripping Xs to reduce the oil canning. I may replace them with
standard Ls this winter. Since I rarely do stalls, I still have the weather
stripping in place.
My empty weight came in at 1175 re-weighted to 1200 lbs. I have a minimal VFR
panel. I am very happy with the weight. You can get out of CG rearward. When
you get heavy put the big guys in the front. Don't expect big climb rates
when you get heavy. When light the CG is too far forward so put the guns and
survival gear in the baggage area.
The right hand stick and left hand throttle takes a little getting use to.
The 801 meets and exceed the 3 requirements I had for my plane; 4 seats, cruise
at 100 (Now about 115) mph and get out short!
You are talking to one happy camper.
It would be interesting to hear from Ben or anyone else who has quite a few hours
in the 801 about their experiences!
I assume you have read about my recent removal of the slats, the addition of VGs
and subsequent increase in speed. I also installed the lift strut fairing
kit this winter. I have not flown enough to come up with firm speeds yet. The
plane is faster. My guess is 115 mph at 10.5 gph or 103 mph at 7.8 gph. An
increase of 12 mph which is 12% at cruise is significant!
I am looking forward to the Valdez May Day Fly-in and Air Show. I plan on getting
my take-off and landing distances measured with and without leading edge slats.
I will see if I can beat my 114' take off distance from last year.
Bill Wilcox
Valdez, AK
N801BW
285 hours
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| Subject: | Re: deburing holes |
Using a metal abrasive wheel cut off saw, I shorten a drill as needed
and use in some tight places. Apply friction tape. Will now cut up a
file, sounds like a good idea. What's a hocky puck? Sorry aboot that.
Mil
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off |
How the hell did they survive that?
do not archive
Tim Juhl wrote:
> If the wings separate from the aircraft the only risk of fire comes from the
fuel remaining in the lines within the fuselage :-) In my years chasing missing
airplanes for the CAP the only accidents I remember where there was a post
crash fire were ones where the occupants did not survive the impact. If you
can maintain control of your aircraft until control is taken away from you there
is a good chance that you will survive. Shedding wings and other pieces during
a forced landing in rough terrain can actually help reduce the crash forces.
Shutting off fuel and electrics prior to impact can help as well.
>
> I've attached a pix of a cherokee six that crashed recently in northern Michigan.
All survived albeit with injuries. The pilot put it into the woods after
the engine lost power.... he used his cell phone to direct rescuers to his
location.
>
> Fly safe!
>
> Tim
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104936#104936
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| Subject: | Re: Materials List - Empennage |
Figured maybe he was over thinking it because I did the same thing, then just decided
to go for it.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104938#104938
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Milburn,
A Hockey Puck is a device employed by those who desire to avoid dentists in later
life.
I have a Canadian sister-in-law who says there was one boy in her school who had
a front tooth.
It's a slow day.
do not archive
Zed
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Well 2 Root canals and restorative dental surgery, as I look out the
window and see that I=92m in the middle of a snow blizzard ! I have to
tell you all that I=92m in a great mood!
The Sun-N-Fun Webmaster BBQ on Thursday April 19th 5pm ' 8pm is
gaining
unprecedented momentum, we are now at over 160 people pre-registered !
This is just incredible ! I will be finalizing the name tags soon and
hope that anyone who was sitting on the fence is able to go to HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch601.org/"www.ch601.org or HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com/"www.ch701.com and fill in the online form.
Remember folks this is your ticket for the food! This year we are going
to setup a little differently, we are located in the campground at the
same location as last year but this time we will have a table at the
front of the event where all the name tags will be located.
Your ticket Table will be hosted by Ramelle Bintz . Ramelle will be
there to help you get your nametag, also new for this year we have
donations to raffle off. The grand raffle is a Cummings Spinner, custom
made for your plane and prop, kindly donated by Allan at Cummings
Spinners in Australia.
Next, I would really like to note that once again we have sponsors that
have really stepped up. Though I ask for donations to help out with the
food at the event and I put every cent back into the BBQ or to the next
BBQ. IT would not be possible without the help of our sponsors! I wish
to THANK the great generosity of
USA William Wynne FlyCorvair.com
HYPERLINK
"http://www.flightcrafters.citymaker.com/page/page/1694089.htm"Flight
Crafters
Jabiru USA, William Wynne, Quality Sport Planes, Flight Crafters,
Homebuilthelp.com are all businesses that contribute to this event this
year. With that we are able to offer the kind of event that goes far
beyond the simple burger on a bun! This year like last year we will have
burgers, dogs, corn and wings. I will also be getting more pop, salads
and dessert this year, we ran a little short last year.
So All in ALL we are on target for the largest event yet! And the
largest Zenith Owners and Builders gathering ever! IF your not
registered do you really want to miss out on something this big? Come on
Sun-N-Fun is a great place to be!!!
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
--
4/3/2007 12:48 PM
--
4/3/2007 12:48 PM
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| Subject: | Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off |
They clipped the treetops on the way in which slowed them down a bit. The engine
separated from the fuselage although it rests only a few feet away from it.
The left side of the aircraft was opened up with the jaws of life so it was more
intact when it came to rest. What's really incredible is the condition of
the cockpit (see attachment.) There were 4 souls on board and they waited about
3 hours for rescue.
Tim
BTW - I'm not trying to offend anyone with this discussion or photos. I was involved
with search and rescue for 25 years and have been an instructor for almost
as long. I try to learn from such tragedies and share the lessons in the hope
that others may be spared a similar fate. Personally, I've had more close
calls on the highway than in the air.
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104953#104953
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/crash3_266.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Remote Fuel Cut Off |
Ugh! How many broken limbs, particularly legs? That sounds ugly.
Good thing it didn't burst into flames. Bad enough you're stuck in there, worse
you're stuck in there on fire.
People freak out over stuff like this, but it could just as easily happen in a
car, maybe not the crashing through the treetops part, but being stuck in a burning
car.
do not archive
Tim Juhl wrote:
> They clipped the treetops on the way in which slowed them down a bit. The engine
separated from the fuselage although it rests only a few feet away from it.
The left side of the aircraft was opened up with the jaws of life so it was
more intact when it came to rest. What's really incredible is the condition
of the cockpit (see attachment.) There were 4 souls on board and they waited about
3 hours for rescue.
>
> Tim
>
> BTW - I'm not trying to offend anyone with this discussion or photos. I was
involved with search and rescue for 25 years and have been an instructor for almost
as long. I try to learn from such tragedies and share the lessons in the
hope that others may be spared a similar fate. Personally, I've had more close
calls on the highway than in the air.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104954#104954
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
Haven't gotten there yet, but I was thinking of reversing the canopy
hinge bolts, leaving the nuts off, using some light holddown to keep
them in place, and a cable-operated handle to pull the bolts and let the
canopy "fly" off. Under those circumstances, though, you wouldn't need a
light holddown. You'd probably generate a King Kong force. ((A BRS chute
would be better)
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
(*&^%$# canopy!
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe<mailto:joe@kfiz.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 3:27 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Bailing out of a 601!
<joe@kfiz.com<mailto:joe@kfiz.com>>
My friend Lee had a Cessna 150 Aerobat and I can remember seeing some
sort
of quick release door handle on the inside that would remove the door
from
the hinges in flight to make it easier for a parachute jump. What in
the
world would you do in a 601 XL if you had to bail out in a hurry? Has
anyone
ever bailed out of a 601? I remember going up with Lee and betting him
a
steak dinner that he couldn't make me sick. I wound up treating at
Ponderosa
that night.
I don't know much about the legality of aerobatics because I like to
fly
almost straight and level, but for the guys who like that kind of
flying
would it be worth it to figure out some kind of a hinge pin system
that
would release the canopy from it's hinges in case a bail out was
needed? Do
the FAR's require a parachute when doing aerobatics? I have nothing
against
that kind of flying, but life is too great and too short to take
unnecessary
chances.
Joe in Oshkosh
601XL
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Zenith-List>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
You'd also need to rig some way to release the gas shocks. You'd also
need to bolt something to the fuselage above the instrument pane to
deflect the canopy upward so it won't take your head off on its way
overboard. You could always build an open cockpit version, then it
would be easy to get out. :)
On Apr 4, 2007, at 3:51 PM, <paulrod36@msn.com> wrote:
> Haven't gotten there yet, but I was thinking of reversing the
> canopy hinge bolts, leaving the nuts off, using some light holddown
> to keep them in place, and a cable-operated handle to pull the
> bolts and let the canopy "fly" off. Under those circumstances,
> though, you wouldn't need a light holddown. You'd probably generate
> a King Kong force. ((A BRS chute would be better)
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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| Subject: | Re: Materials List - Empennage |
Well if he is just thinking about it I applaud him. Building an aircraft is not
something that should be taken lightly or without a lot of thought.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104959#104959
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| Subject: | Re: Cherokee Six- crash photo |
the difference between aluminum (absorbing the energy from the crash) and composite
(breaking like an egg shell)
Fritz--------- do not archive
ashontz <ashontz@nbme.org> wrote:
How the hell did they survive that?
do not archive
Tim Juhl wrote:
> If the wings separate from the aircraft the only risk of fire comes from the
fuel remaining in the lines within the fuselage :-) In my years chasing missing
airplanes for the CAP the only accidents I remember where there was a post crash
fire were ones where the occupants did not survive the impact. If you can
maintain control of your aircraft until control is taken away from you there
is a good chance that you will survive. Shedding wings and other pieces during
a forced landing in rough terrain can actually help reduce the crash forces.
Shutting off fuel and electrics prior to impact can help as well.
>
> I've attached a pix of a cherokee six that crashed recently in northern Michigan.
All survived albeit with injuries. The pilot put it into the woods after
the engine lost power.... he used his cell phone to direct rescuers to his location.
>
> Fly safe!
>
> Tim
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104936#104936
---------------------------------
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| Subject: | Re: Materials List - Empennage |
Gig Giacona wrote:
> Well if he is just thinking about it I applaud him. Building an aircraft is not
something that should be taken lightly or without a lot of thought.
I agree, but he said he's been thinking for years. I feel like I wasted a lot of
time just thinking when I should have just went ahead and did it. The questions
answer themselves over time.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104961#104961
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
Don't forget there are the hold open pistons there as well. And they'd have to
release.
I saw a picture somewhere of Van's RV12 test plane and there was a canopy ejection
handle. I doubt it will be there on the final design but it was there for
the tests.
I'm not a fan of BRS. Many if not most of the times they would be of use the aircraft
could be landed without them. Look at the accident database and figure
how many of the fatal 601 accidents would have not have been fatal with a BRS.
I think you'd find that it isn't that large a number.
> Haven't gotten there yet, but I was thinking of reversing the canopy hinge bolts,
leaving the nuts off, using some light holddown to keep them in place, and
a cable-operated handle to pull the bolts and let the canopy "fly" off. Under
those circumstances, though, you wouldn't need a light holddown. You'd probably
generate a King Kong force. ((A BRS chute would be better)
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104963#104963
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dip stick |
Tim,
great Idea, the SUperhawk tank guages are high grade PVC with numbers marking that
are fuel proof. Its a pipette with markings and its only $5.00 i think.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net>
>Sent: Apr 4, 2007 1:10 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Fuel tank dip stick
>
>
>Being an old chemistry teacher I modeled my dipstick on a measuring pipette. I purchased a couple of feet of rigid plastic tubing from aircraft spruce (you need enough to reach the bottom of the tank and grip at the top.) I added fuel until there was enough to show in the bottom of the tube (whole gallons, not fractions) noted the amount and marked the tube with a scratch (used a triangular file.) From there I added fuel a gallon at a time and marked the stick at each gallon until full. For those who have not used a pipette, you insert the tube, cover the top hole with your finger and lift the tube out. The fuel will remain in the tube long enough for you to get a reading. A 1/8th inch center opening works best - see http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/acryltube.php
>
>To finish the job I used a tubing cutter to score a shallow ring around the tube
at each mark. I then used a cheap vibrating engraver to mark the gallons next
to each line.
>
>Tim
>
>--------
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>______________
>CFII
>Champ L16A flying
>Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
>Working on wings
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104913#104913
>
>
Message 46
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Can anyone advise me as to appropriate wire and guage for the
flap motor wiring? Looks like four conductors are required. Do they all
need to be heavy enough for the motor draw, or just two of them? Would it be
criminal to use trailer wiring cable?
Lynn
601XL / Corvair
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I don't have extensive experience with Vans aircraft but the two RV7-As
that I have been in and around both have canopy relase mechanisms. I
don't think it is a feature limited to testing prototypes. The release
is a T handle that when pulled works a set of levers which pull the
canopy release pins inward. I'm not sure but I think that the entire
canopy hinge assembly leaves as a unit, gas lift struts and all. I can
check it out and report back if the listers feel it is important.
My feeling is to go with what CH designed and use either a rock hammer
as suggested or carry one of those auto escape tools which combine a
seat bemt cutter and a window smashing hammer. An amature designed
canopy release would make the designer the pioneer and history shows
that pioneers get all the arrows.
Oh yeah, and I hope the det cord suggestion was just graveyard humor.
Dred
<wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
Don't forget there are the hold open pistons there as well. And they'd
have to release.
I saw a picture somewhere of Van's RV12 test plane and there was a
canopy ejection handle. I doubt it will be there on the final design but
it was there for the tests.
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: MVP (Major Visual Progress) |
ARGHHHH! I AM BLINDED BY THE SHINYNESS!, LET ME SEND YOU SOME TYLENOL,THAT IS
SOME SERIOUS ELBOW GREESE!!
GREAT JOB!
jUAN
-----Original Message-----
>From: Robert Schoenberger <hrs1@frontiernet.net>
>Sent: Apr 3, 2007 8:13 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: MVP (Major Visual Progress)
>
>
>Scott . . . I am totally impressed with your plane. It's almost too
>nice to fly! Robert Schoenberger 701 do not archive
>
>Scott Laughlin wrote:
>> <cookwithgas@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Hi Guys:
>>
>> Having completed my latest batch of LRI probes and mailed them all out
>> (thanks to all the buyers), I got back to work on the 601. See the
>> picture below for some Major Visual Progress. I've burned through my
>> second can of Nuvite F9 and still have one wing to polish.
>>
>> Enjoy:
>>
>> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/web/4_2_07_Left_Wing.JPG
>>
>> Scott Laughlin
>> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
>> http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: New HF rivet gun |
pilotmall.com has some great dipsaticks that you can buy and calibrate for the
601 tanks.
juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris Lewis <christopherlewis@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Apr 4, 2007 1:36 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: New HF rivet gun
>
>
>Try this link:
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber-173
>
>Looks interesting to me. I have the "old" HF unit and it works great, but lighter
weight would ne nice.
>
>Chris in Seattle
>
>--------
>701 Scratch Builder
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=104921#104921
>
>
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If this is for an XL then 6-B-20 (Date 06/03) shows that all 4 wires carry
the full current. I've measure a steady-state current draw of about 4 amps.
For that current over a rough length of 7-10 feet 18 gauge would be a
suitable size:
www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
Generally Tefzel wire is recommended in aircraft.
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Another Build Table |
That should be strong enough. That is the way I like to do things also. Good
job!!
Good day all,
Here are pictures of my finished table less wood top and paint. It is made out
of 1.5 in steel tube and turned out level, flat and true. I finally settled on
a leg socket arrangement made up of 1.5 in square tube 4 in long with two 6 in
long 1.5 in angle iron welded to it.
The sockets are slightly tapered to account slight misalignments of the top and
bottom socket. To accomplish this, I built a shim out of a piece of scrap square
tube and welded one spot on each side. This was placed in the top of the socket
during welding and knocked out upon completion. The taper allows for the
slight misallignment of the top and bottom sockets and for the tubes to slide
in and out easily. I can change the height of the table by simply cutting new
verticals. The minimum height for the table is 16 in for fuselage work.
One of my neighbors pointed out that I could remove the top and build arms for
the base that fit the sockets to create a rotisserie for painting. Another neighbor
suggested that I get 6 more nuts to lock the jack screws in place so they
do not creep.
Yes, it is overkill but it sure was fun to build. It is an alternative for those
who do not find working with wood fun. The project was something of a Tom Sawyer
adventure. Two of my neighbors learned how to wire weld on it. That is why
many of the welds are sloppy.
--------
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
N78QT - 601XL QB/ Jab3300
Started on elevator
Read this topic online here:
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Message 52
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| Subject: | Re:Remote Fuel Cut Off |
What you're looking for is called a breakaway fuel fitting. They were
beginning to be installed on military aircraft late 70's. Especially helicopters.
I
know UH-1 Hueys had them some where on the engine deck under the engine. If you
can find a hulk you can rob, its easy to get off. Need both male and female
ends. Wonder what they cost new from a supplier?
They sort of look and work like an air hose coupling. Except no collar to
slide. A strain on the line will cause the male and female to uncouple and will
cause a shutoff. This prevents a cloud of fuel mist during the crash sequence.
This cloud contacts arcing wires or hot exhaust and boom.
Another good practice is to put a loop of extra flexible fuel line at the
point where wing joins fuselage. Idea is that a lot of structure can break and
move without parting a taut fuel line. I like this method.
Uncle Sam gave me some formal training in crash survival design at Arizona
State Univ, Tempe. DR Harry Robinson (Robertson?)was #2 man in the dept. He had
a Tempe company that did research, design & mfr. of helicopter auxiliary fuel
tanks. Robertson Tanks still sells to the Gvt and industry. They may be a
source or reference for breakaway fuel valves. Don't ever see them AS or WagAero.
Bob from Pace,Fl
**************************************
See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dip stick |
I had a commercially made dipstick for my 182 - the one I made cost less than a
buck and does not require a conversion chart - it reads the gallons direct.
A trick I used when marking my stick..... I slipped a tight fitting "o" ring over
the tube. After the first read I slid the "o" ring to where I thought the
fuel level came. On second try I'd see how close I'd come. It might take a
few adjustments but you can come pretty close when it comes to determining where
to put the marks.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105011#105011
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| Subject: | Re:Remote Fuel Cut Off |
This same concept has been in use on indy style and other types of racin
g cars for years. It is called a "dry break". When cars hit the wall or
other cars the fuel lines will disconnect and the car sheds their outer
componants to absorb energy. I am sure there are several vendors that ca
rry these things. Try Earls performance fittings, or any number of other
racing wharehouses. They are not that expensive either.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- MaxNr@aol.com wrote:
What you're looking for is called a breakaway fuel fitting. They were be
ginning to be installed on military aircraft late 70's. Especially helic
opters. I know UH-1 Hueys had them some where on the engine deck under t
he engine. If you can find a hulk you can rob, its easy to get off. Need
both male and female ends. Wonder what they cost new from a supplier?
They sort of look and work like an air hose coupling. Except no collar t
o slide. A strain on the line will cause the male and female to uncouple
and will cause a shutoff. This prevents a cloud of fuel mist during the
crash sequence. This cloud contacts arcing wires or hot exhaust and boo
m.
Another good practice is to put a loop of extra flexible fuel line at th
e point where wing joins fuselage. Idea is that a lot of structure can b
reak and move without parting a taut fuel line. I like this method.
Uncle Sam gave me some formal training in crash survival design at Arizo
na State Univ, Tempe. DR Harry Robinson (Robertson?)was #2 man in the de
pt. He had a Tempe company that did research, design & mfr. of helicopte
r auxiliary fuel tanks. Robertson Tanks still sells to the Gvt and indus
try. They may be a source or reference for breakaway fuel valves. Don't
ever see them AS or WagAero.
Bob from Pace,Fl
**************************************
See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
<html><P>This same concept has been in use on indy style and other types
of racing cars for years. It is called a "dry break". When cars&nb
sp;hit the wall or other cars the fuel lines will disconnect and the car
sheds their outer componants to absorb energy. I am sure there are
several vendors that carry these things. Try Earls performance fittings
, or any number of other racing wharehouses. They are not that expensive
either.</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- MaxNr@aol.com wrote:<BR><FONT face=arial,helv
etica><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE=
"10">What you're looking for is called a breakaway fuel fitting. They we
re beginning to be installed on military aircraft late 70's. Especially
helicopters. I know UH-1 Hueys had them some where on the engine deck un
der the engine. If you can find a hulk you can rob, its easy to get off.
Need both male and female ends. Wonder what they cost new from a suppli
er?<BR><BR>They sort of look and work like an air hose coupling. Except
no collar to slide. A strain on the line will cause the male and female
to uncouple and will cause a shutoff. This prevents a cloud of fuel mist
during the crash sequence. This cloud contacts arcing wires or hot exha
ust and boom. <BR><BR>Another good practice is to put a loop of extra fl
exible fuel line at the point where wing joins fuselage. Idea is that a
lot of structure can break and move without parting a taut fuel line. I
like this method. <BR><BR>Uncle Sam gave me some formal training in cras
h survival design at Arizona State Univ, Tempe. DR Harry Robinson (Rober
tson?)was #2 man in the dept. He had a Tempe company that did research,
design & mfr. of helicopter auxiliary fuel tanks. Robertson Tanks st
ill sells to the Gvt and industry. They may be a source or reference for
breakaway fuel valves. Don't ever see them AS or WagAero.<BR><BR>Bob fr
om Pace,Fl </FONT><BR><BR><BR>************************************
**<BR>See what's free at http://www.aol.com. </P><PRE><B><FONT face="c
ourier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
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Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dip stick |
I just use a wooden paint paddle that I picked up a Home Depot and Aircraft Supply.
Paint it and mark it with a Sharpie. If you drop your pipette in the tank,
it will roll to the lowest end of the tank. If you drop my wooden paddle, it
will float near the filler neck. Don't ask how I know this.
Randy Stout
San Antonio TX
www.geocities.com/r5t0ut21
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net>
To:zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Fuel tank dip stick
I had a commercially made dipstick for my 182 - the one I made cost less than a
buck and does not require a conversion chart - it reads the gallons direct.
A trick I used when marking my stick..... I slipped a tight fitting "o" ring over
the tube. After the first read I slid the "o" ring to where I thought the
fuel level came. On second try I'd see how close I'd come. It might take a
few adjustments but you can come pretty close when it comes to determining where
to put the marks.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105011#105011
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Round Holes / Workshop in basement |
I am using an old 110v ac 2500 rpm Black & Decker 1/4" drill motor that I got from
my father. The high rpm's and starting with a small pilot and stepping up
in size 2 to 3 times will produce the roundest holes. I was going to get an
air drill but this is really quieter and more practical.
Don't know about the basement, but I am thinking of setting up some equipment down
there.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105020#105020
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Materials List - Empennage |
Welcome aboard,
The materials list at ch601.org will get you going. I am using it as I go along
as a check list. It only took me one flight in one of these things to get me
started.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105021#105021
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
Don't forget "while it's on the way back to knock the tail off", and don't
forget all that air that going to ram into that luggage shelf behind you
with no windshield to deflect the wind. I think we should forget this
bailing out thing, and move on to something that will work and a lot more
sensible, A $100.000 dollar ejection seat from the Navy.I 'am almost sure
we could get a good price if we buy 10 at a time.Who's up for that?
Joe N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Bailing out of a 601!
>
> You'd also need to rig some way to release the gas shocks. You'd also
> need to bolt something to the fuselage above the instrument pane to
> deflect the canopy upward so it won't take your head off on its way
> overboard. You could always build an open cockpit version, then it would
> be easy to get out. :)
>
>
> On Apr 4, 2007, at 3:51 PM, <paulrod36@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Haven't gotten there yet, but I was thinking of reversing the canopy
>> hinge bolts, leaving the nuts off, using some light holddown to keep
>> them in place, and a cable-operated handle to pull the bolts and let the
>> canopy "fly" off. Under those circumstances, though, you wouldn't need a
>> light holddown. You'd probably generate a King Kong force. ((A BRS chute
>> would be better)
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL,
> RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
Good way to let smoke out.. Joe N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Bailing out of a 601!
>
> The canopy will open in flight but not very far. I have had one side come
> loose in flight a few times due to not fully latching it before take-off
> and it's difficult, if not impossible to re-latch it in flight. It does
> want to lift up away from the rail. I believe someone reported on this
> list that they unlatched the canopy in flight once and it opened several
> inches and stayed there and caused no serious problem.
> On Apr 4, 2007, at 10:28 AM, ashontz wrote:
>
>>
>> I'd imagine the bubble canopy would be pretty damn hard to open in
>> flight considering fighter planes have the canopy hinge on the back to
>> allow the canopy to go sailing back into the breeze when the guy
>> jettisons. You'd think the canopy would have lift and would want to rise
>> up on the front hinge, but it's probably counter-intutive (to a pilot
>> anyway) and gets push down instead. More reasons for a gull wing door
>> with break-away hinges, just pull the hinge pin with a big loop on the
>> end and you're out.
>>
>> --------
>> Andy Shontz
>> CH601XL - Corvair
>> www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL,
> RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
Most of Vans aircraft are designed for aerobatics and many of them
are often flown aerobatically. The 601 is not designed for much in
the way of aerobatics. The ability to bail out easily is more of an
issue for an aerobatic airplane than for the 601.
I'm more concerned with getting out of the plane on the ground if I
happen to wind up off airport somewhere belly up. I found a multi-
purpose tool at Harbor Freight that has a hatchet blade on one side,
a hammer on the other and a nail puller claw sticking out the end.
It's heavy enough to break through the canopy and the claw could be
used as a make-shift shovel to dig out with. Its actually been much
handier to have around than a rock hammer, I've used it several times
to drive my tie down stakes and once used it to dig the packed in
soil out of the padeyes at Bacon County airport so I could use them
to tie down on my way to Sun'N'Fun. And I can cut up firewood at my
campsite with it too.
I'm not sure one of those automotive escape tools would do so well on
plexiglas. They are designed to shatter safety glass and do a good
job at that but they don't seem heavy enough to do a decent job on
plexiglas.
Yes, the det cord remark was intended as humor. :)
On Apr 4, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Edward Moody II wrote:
> I don't have extensive experience with Vans aircraft but the two
> RV7-As that I have been in and around both have canopy relase
> mechanisms. I don't think it is a feature limited to testing
> prototypes.
>
> My feeling is to go with what CH designed and use either a rock
> hammer as suggested or carry one of those auto escape tools which
> combine a seat bemt cutter and a window smashing hammer.
>
> Oh yeah, and I hope the det cord suggestion was just graveyard humor.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank dip stick |
I've had two of those clear plastic fuel gauges from Sportys. The
first one started developing cracks across the width of the plastic
and finally fell apart. The second one is showing the same cracks. I
don't know if the are adversely reacting to auto fuel or what. I
guess I'll have to make another wooden dipstick.
On Apr 4, 2007, at 4:56 PM, Juan Vega wrote:
> <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> great Idea, the SUperhawk tank guages are high grade PVC with
> numbers marking that are fuel proof. Its a pipette with markings
> and its only $5.00 i think.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: Bailing out of a 601! |
I think that a 601 canopy could , under the right cond. could hold up to
flip over,in dirt , due to it's egg shape if so youre going to have to go
out the floor or side the hatchet is the ans. auto break out tool is made
for the tempered glass in the side and rear windows of a car or truck
----- Original Message ----- Joe
N101HD
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Bailing out of a 601!
>
> Most of Vans aircraft are designed for aerobatics and many of them are
> often flown aerobatically. The 601 is not designed for much in the way of
> aerobatics. The ability to bail out easily is more of an issue for an
> aerobatic airplane than for the 601.
>
> I'm more concerned with getting out of the plane on the ground if I
> happen to wind up off airport somewhere belly up. I found a multi- purpose
> tool at Harbor Freight that has a hatchet blade on one side, a hammer on
> the other and a nail puller claw sticking out the end. It's heavy enough
> to break through the canopy and the claw could be used as a make-shift
> shovel to dig out with. Its actually been much handier to have around
> than a rock hammer, I've used it several times to drive my tie down
> stakes and once used it to dig the packed in soil out of the padeyes at
> Bacon County airport so I could use them to tie down on my way to
> Sun'N'Fun. And I can cut up firewood at my campsite with it too.
>
> I'm not sure one of those automotive escape tools would do so well on
> plexiglas. They are designed to shatter safety glass and do a good job at
> that but they don't seem heavy enough to do a decent job on plexiglas.
>
> Yes, the det cord remark was intended as humor. :)
>
>
> On Apr 4, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Edward Moody II wrote:
>
>> I don't have extensive experience with Vans aircraft but the two RV7-As
>> that I have been in and around both have canopy relase mechanisms. I
>> don't think it is a feature limited to testing prototypes.
>>
>> My feeling is to go with what CH designed and use either a rock hammer
>> as suggested or carry one of those auto escape tools which combine a
>> seat bemt cutter and a window smashing hammer.
>>
>> Oh yeah, and I hope the det cord suggestion was just graveyard humor.
>>
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL,
> RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 63
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Craig,
Thanks for the input on the flap wiring. That will get me
started.
do not archive Lynn 601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 6:18 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Flap Wiring
>
> If this is for an XL then 6-B-20 (Date 06/03) shows that all 4 wires carry
> the full current. I've measure a steady-state current draw of about 4
amps.
> For that current over a rough length of 7-10 feet 18 gauge would be a
> suitable size:
>
> www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
>
> Generally Tefzel wire is recommended in aircraft.
>
> -- Craig
>
>
Message 64
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| Subject: | My 601HD still for sale: Reminder |
Sorry folks, I don't mean to spam the list but I still have my 601HD for sale.
I've had 3 three serious buyers in a row bow out at the last minute. Very frustrating
when you have shown the plane, agreed on price, got paperwork ready and
arranged delivery etc...
Circumstances of life have dictated a leave of absence from the flying world for
me so I really have to sell this plane this month. I few a few spare parts,
some landing gear jigs and a set of fiberglass wheel pant molds I made last year
(never completed the project).
Anyhow, details are below. I have TONS of pictures up on my private website and
I'll try and attach a few here.
Zenair Zodiac 601HD. Built in 2005. 50 Hours TT. 80HP Rotax 912 engine. Registered
as Advanced Ultralight. Forward opening tinted canopy (like the XL model)
which is much safer than the stock HD side-opening canopy. Czech Aircraft works
cowling system provides better cooling and faster cruise (105 Mph). 3-blade
Warp Drive ground-adjustable composite prop with spinner. Full VFR panel with
ASI, VSI, ALT, electric turn and bank, Grand Rapids EIS for engine monitoring,
ICOM A6 radio, Garmin 176 GPS, 2-place Sigtronics intercom. 2 headsets included.
Has both elevator and aileron trim. Kuntzelman strobes. External radio antenna.
Centre console with 2 12V AUX power outlets. Interior has cabin heat. 16
Gallon header tank with 2 7-gallon wing tanks (30 gallons for long-range flight).
Streamlined enclosed wheel boxes. Beautiful white/black/grey paint job.
First $34,000 US or $39,000 Canadian takes it. I have to sell it this month!
Call Trevor at 519 448-4816 after 6PM. Lots more pictures here:
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105051#105051
Message 65
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| Subject: | First wing complete |
Well gang, today I finally finished my right wing. Its a great feeling to know
I made every single part by hand (except the fiberglass tip and the hardware).
Most of the parts for the left wing are made, so it should go together more quickly.
I couldn't have reached this milestone without the good people on this
list who took the time to answer my questions and offer much needed advice and
inspiration. Thanks to you all.
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
601XL scratch builder
http://www.daves601xl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105065#105065
Attachments:
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/wing_027_130.jpg
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