Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:47 AM - Re: Re: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL (David Wright)
2. 01:08 AM - Re: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL (David Wright)
3. 05:02 AM - crossing the grear lakes (alex trent)
4. 05:35 AM - Re: Re:Canopy + Cargo Net for 601XL? (Frank Derfler)
5. 06:22 AM - Canopy + Cargo Net for 601XL? (Noel Loveys)
6. 06:56 AM - Re: Wing Spar Rivet Line CH701 (mcolbeck)
7. 07:16 AM - Re: crossing the grear lakes (Tom Lutz)
8. 07:19 AM - Re: crossing the grear lakes (Aaron Gustafson)
9. 07:46 AM - Aileron cable clearance and installation (Bill Naumuk)
10. 08:44 AM - Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation (LarryMcFarland)
11. 08:55 AM - Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation (David X)
12. 09:25 AM - Re: crossing the grear lakes (David X)
13. 09:39 AM - Re: crossing the grear lakes (David X)
14. 09:42 AM - Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation (Bill Naumuk)
15. 09:57 AM - Re: Re: crossing the grear lakes (Craig Payne)
16. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: crossing the grear lakes (Gary Ray)
17. 11:32 AM - Torque tube length (Bill Naumuk)
18. 12:28 PM - Canopy symmetry (Mike Brenner)
19. 12:28 PM - Re: Torque tube length (LarryMcFarland)
20. 12:42 PM - baggage locker (Carlos Sa)
21. 01:01 PM - Re: Torque tube length (Bill Naumuk)
22. 01:06 PM - Re: Canopy symmetry (Bryan Martin)
23. 02:01 PM - Re: Canopy symmetry (Ron Lendon)
24. 02:03 PM - crossing the Great Dead Horse (Jeff Small)
25. 02:18 PM - filing identifiers (Jeff Small)
26. 02:44 PM - Re: crossing the grear lakes (Tim Juhl)
27. 03:58 PM - 701 Cowl (Tommy Walker)
28. 07:22 PM - Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center (secatur)
29. 09:07 PM - Re: crossing the grear lakes (David X)
30. 09:20 PM - Ejecting the canopy on the 601 (David X)
31. 09:26 PM - Re: baggage locker (David X)
32. 10:16 PM - Re: Re: crossing the grear lakes (raymondj)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL |
Dave
That was a question I meant to ask, the threaded steel rod I have (6-
W-10-5) is 230mm long.
What was the length of your threaded rod when you fitted it - I am
hoping you are going to say you trimmed it down to less than 220mm!!
Dave
61Xl Scratchbuild wings
Washington UK
On 7 Apr 2007, at 07:28, TxDave wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> Caleb, Ron, and Larry all have given you excellent advice. We
> surely are fortunate to have so many smart people to help us out.
> Seems like strategically placed fairleads would be appropriate. Of
> course your threaded rod will have to be 30mm longer since your
> bellcrank will be mounted 30mm forward. One thing to consider is
> how little the ailerons actually move from neutral ( 11.5 degrees
> up and down).
>
> Dave Clay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105413#105413
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL |
Larry / Ron
Thanks for the suggestions
I will try with the string - My problem was that I have not started
the fuselage and I could not visualise where the cables would exit
the fuselage and enter the wing and at what angle the cables would
run. I will trawl through my plans and see if I can find this info.
As far as remaking parts (and remaking remade parts) - I don't know
about the soul - but it is good for Aircraft Spruce and other
aluminium suppliers!
I wish it was only occasionally I remade parts - but I find that is
the challenge of scratchbuilding as I progress I find that I am
getting better at it and more able to read and understand the plans.
I look back at some of my earlier work - rear wing ribs included, and
know I could have done a better job.
Dave
601XL
Washington UK
On 7 Apr 2007, at 02:11, LarryMcFarland wrote:
> <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> David,
> Jig up your bellcrank and find the swing of the expected arc
> possible with max movements
> using string if necessary. All the dimensions are there if you
> stack them and you'll find out
> how much the 30mm error means to the clearance you need. It may
> have no consequence
> or you may find the necessity of making a few ribs again. In any
> case, don't despair as
> all of us find ourselves in the same basket from time to time.
> It's good for the soul to make
> a few parts more than once occasionally. Good luck,
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> David Wright wrote:
>> <davidhwright@mac.com>
>>
>>
>> Gents
>>
>> I am scratchbuilding a 601 and am neck and neck with Dave Clay and
>> Ron Lendon - however....
>> While putting together the parts for the right wing I noticed that
>> I had made an error in measuring the location for the lightening
>> holes for the rear ribs. I used the reference line on 6-W-6 top
>> drawing to measure the position of the lightening holes. I
>> measured the 120mm for the first hole from half way up the form
>> block instead of the bottom corner (as is clearly shown in the
>> drawing left side of middle row!)
>> In consequence I now have 18 ribs, 9 of them rivetted into the
>> right wing - all with the lightening holes 30mm forward of where
>> they should be.
>> I noticed this error when fitting the aileron bellcrank assembly.
>> A possible problem I foresee is running the cables to the
>> bellcrank - can anyone put me out of my misery - will the 30mm
>> cause a problem running the aileron cables from the fuselage
>> through the lightening holes - will there still be enough clearance??
>> I e-mailed Caleb at ZAC, but he was unable to assist as they don't
>> have any open wings at Mexico. He suggested utilising fairleads
>> if there was a problem.
>>
>>
>> Dave Wright
>> 601XL - scratchbuilding wings
>> Washington UK
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | crossing the grear lakes |
With a life jacket and strobe, they might at least have found his
body. If they had found him withiin the first hour, he might have
even survived. He went down in late april, at that time of year, that
lake is COLD. It never gets very warm that far off shore. If you go
down in Lake Michigan any time of year, you'd better have a life raft
or imersion suit or you won't survive very long.
A friend of mine used to cross Lake Ontario regularly. He always carried a life
jacket and his brother said to him one day "better you should carry a big rock,
you wouldn't suffer as long"
alex t
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:Canopy + Cargo Net for 601XL? |
Thanks for the response, Brian. I like the background art on your Website.
Why didn't I think of that for my www.flyinflorida.com?
Also thanks to Tim for the concept of the air bubble opening the canopy for
you when below the surface. Hadn't pictured it that way, but I can see it.
For all of you commenting about Lake Michigan... I've done my time at the
Indiana Dunes. I'm happy to report that if the water temperature gets below
72 degrees around here we just head further south!
West Marine's biggest store (and boatyard) is just down US 1 from the
Marathon Airport. I have to go look in the "aviation" isle.
One person responding on the thread suggested wearing an "airline type" life
vest. The "suspenders" inflated by CO2 are what we wear. (Technically:
Type V acting as Type II PFD) Interestingly, only people of smaller
stature seem to have a problem with them in the 601 because they bunch
around the neck of someone not very big from neck to waist. Bigger folks
have no problem.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Frank Derfler N183AM AMD-Made 601XL with 100 hours in six months and I
love it.
*See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com*
Message 5
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| Subject: | Canopy + Cargo Net for 601XL? |
If your plane ends up upside down the bubble goes up into the plane and I
think a good foot put against the dome will open it... Remember to take off
your harness first.
If your plane lands and somehow ends up right side up then opening the
canopy won't be a problem.
I think that you would be better off with the protection of having the
canopy latched when hitting the water. Ditching in a bog or forest is
another quintal of fish!
Noel
> Time: 06:07:33 AM PST US
> From: "Frank Derfler" <fderfler@gmail.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy + Cargo Net for 601XL?
>
> I'm flying an AMD-made 601XL out of Marathon in the Florida
> Keys, I fly over
> water 90% of the time. . My worry about getting out if I'm
> nose-down in the
> drink is real. Yes, there is a "fire axe" by my left knee,
> but my primary
> emergency drill is open the canopy, prop it open with my hard cover
> kneeboard, and hope the deceleration swings it forward off
> the airplane when
> I make my perfect water landing.
>
> I have flown with the canopy unlocked and can testify that it
> raises up an
> inch or two, makes a hell of a roar, but doesn't do anything else bad.
>
> I have tried a taxi test (holding on to the handle) and I
> think that the
> canopy will fly forward with hard deceleration.
>
> I TRY to keep the baggage compartment pretty clean, but still
> it often has
> hard objects in it. (Have you seen the "Myth Busters"
> "Killer Tissue Box"
> episode?) .
>
> So, thinking about keeping my head under rapid deceleration,
> has anyone
> developed a "best way" to install a cargo net in the baggage
> space of a
> 601XL?
> Sources of the net? Pictures?
>
> Frank Derfler N183AM AMD-made 601XL (and yes, I love it
> and would buy it
> all over again... although I'd put another Dynon screen on
> the right side)
> See my information for pilots at www.flyinflorida.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Spar Rivet Line CH701 |
Thanks Guys thats a big help. Love the idea on building your own duplicator...but
i ordered one already. I have seen them before but completely forgot about
them when I need to use them.
Thanks again.
--------
CH701 Builder and new flyer
Rudder, HS, and Elevator completed
50% complete on Wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105446#105446
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
Or you could load the cabin of your plane with inflated balloons
On 4/7/07, alex trent <atrent7@cogeco.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
> With a life jacket and strobe, they might at least have found his
> body. If they had found him withiin the first hour, he might have
> even survived. He went down in late april, at that time of year, that
> lake is COLD. It never gets very warm that far off shore. If you go
> down in Lake Michigan any time of year, you'd better have a life raft
> or imersion suit or you won't survive very long.
>
>
> A friend of mine used to cross Lake Ontario regularly. He always carried
> a life jacket and his brother said to him one day "better you should carry a
> big rock, you wouldn't suffer as long"
> alex t
> do not archive
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
<<Water ditching>>
I have thought about this quite a few times as I live amongst the great
lakes (Iron Mountain, Michigan). I'm sure that minimal exposure to the need
to ditch in the water is the best prevention (ie. fly high, fly across
islands or fly around water etc.). However in the event of a water ditching,
I assume that for whatever length of time the aircraft stays at the surface,
regardless of how it enters or flips, it will most likely float with the
nose down, tail up due to the weight of the engine(assuming a low wing
airplane). In that attitude it is not a very good platform to support a
person. It will probably not stay at the surface for long as the water
entering all the openings will quickly force out the air and thereby
buoyancy. It seems the trick would be to add permanent buoyancy to the
structure. This could be done by sealing enough of the spaces to retain
their buoyancy or filling them with a light medium. A possible side effect
of sealing a chamber would be the positive or negative air pressure which
could deform the structure to the point of unairworthyness. Filling chambers
with, lets say, foam, could cause a corrosion problem also. One cubic foot
of foam or air space should displace about 36 pounds of water, so it would
take about 20 cubic feet of floatation to hold up a 720 pound craft. That
works out to 10 spaces the size of a 12 gallon fuel tank. (I don't know how
many cans of 'Great Stuff' that would take). I would be interested to read
of someone else's work or experience with this situation.
I've decided to do nothing at this point, but the thoughts are still there!
And now I have let you into my brain and exposed myself to praise, ridicule
or something in between.
Aaron Gustafson do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Aileron cable clearance and installation |
Dave and all-
By sheer coincidence I'm rigging the aileron cables in the c-section of
my HDS at the moment. If my lightening holes were 30mm forward, the cables
would just contact rib at the rear of the hole. Don't know if the HDS
clearance is proportional to the XL.
Two things that have me scratching my head as I progress-
One, I'm using a hybrid combination of kit parts and ACS turnbuckles.
The only kit parts are the .040 plates and AN hardware connecting the cables
to the bellcranks. I just hand tightened the castle nuts and installed the
cotter pins. I figured the plates should be able to move freely so you
didn't have any binding. Should I have torqued the nuts?
Two, it really bothers me that the torque tube can move fore and aft. I
can move it aft and get the rear of the tube to contact the cattycorner
cross brace and jam. The stop collar on the front of the tube is laid out
per the plans, but comes no where near the front bearing where it could
prevent this fore and aft movement. I suppose the control cables, once
tensioned, will prevent movement. Thoughts?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Wright" <davidhwright@mac.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:13 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL
>
> Larry / Ron
>
> Thanks for the suggestions
> I will try with the string
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
Bill,
Obviously, you don't have your elevator cables in yet and their tension
will put the torque tube rearward until
the bearing 6V4-9 is engaged up front. If you've got contact at some
rear point on the torque tube, I'd recommend
you make the bearing just a little thicker to prevent that or raise the
diagonal channel a bit at the rear.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Bill Naumuk wrote:
>
> Dave and all-
> By sheer coincidence I'm rigging the aileron cables in the
> c-section of my HDS at the moment. If my lightening holes were 30mm
> forward, the cables would just contact rib at the rear of the hole.
> Don't know if the HDS clearance is proportional to the XL.
> Two things that have me scratching my head as I progress-
> One, I'm using a hybrid combination of kit parts and ACS
> turnbuckles. The only kit parts are the .040 plates and AN hardware
> connecting the cables to the bellcranks. I just hand tightened the
> castle nuts and installed the cotter pins. I figured the plates should
> be able to move freely so you didn't have any binding. Should I have
> torqued the nuts?
> Two, it really bothers me that the torque tube can move fore and
> aft. I can move it aft and get the rear of the tube to contact the
> cattycorner cross brace and jam. The stop collar on the front of the
> tube is laid out per the plans, but comes no where near the front
> bearing where it could prevent this fore and aft movement. I suppose
> the control cables, once tensioned, will prevent movement. Thoughts?
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuse/Corvair
> Townville, Pa
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Wright" <davidhwright@mac.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL
>
>
>>
>> Larry / Ron
>>
>> Thanks for the suggestions
>> I will try with the string
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
May not be related to your case, but when I took the top skin off of my 601XL wing,
the aileron controls rubbed. They didn't rub when the skin was on. This makes
it obvious that the skins are part of the support structure for the controls.
I clamped a long metal bar to the top middle of each rib and measured carefully
to ensure proper position for each rib. The aileron controls didn't bind. They
were tight, but there was enough clearance that it didn't worry me.
Don't know if this is applicable to your case.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105471#105471
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
Howard Hughes often filled sea planes with ping pong balls to provide flotation
with minimal weight. There is a lot of room inside the wings and fuselage for
that sort of thing.
Maybe create a space-specific form, fill the form with balls and add expansion
foam to fill the voids. That would create a very light, tight floatation block
that wouldn't rattle with lose ping pong balls.
You'd need about 14,000 ping pong balls (15 balls/lb of lift x 900 lbs). That would
cost you about $3000, maybe less for a bulk purchase.
Ping Pong balls only fill about 50% of the volume they occupy, so the foam filler
idea above would improve that considerbly - perhaps you'd need 40% less ping
pong balls - or about 8,400 balls instead.
Just a recycled idea.
http://kwc.org/mythbusters/2004/11/mythbusters_ping_pong_balls_an.html
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105472#105472
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
My previous post was a tongue in cheek comment. I feel compelled to amend it in
case someone thought I was serious and started a Google search for bulk ping
pong balls. [Shocked]
I think that faced with a forced landing over water, you should do what sailors
do when faced with a sinking ship. You have a self-inflatable emergency raft
complete with survival gear, food etc. They dont weigh that much. They're a little
expensive, but what is your life worth?
Otherwise, fly around the water.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105475#105475
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
Larry-
I just finished verifying the location and print dimensions of all the
components and everything's dead on.
There's another course of action. Move the stop collar back until it's
functional, contacting the front bearing and preventing the torque tube from
moving unduly aft. I'd have to raise the rear of the cattycorner brace too
far up for my liking to gain clearance. Seems like the easiest and most
mechanically sound fix.
Swaged my first Nico press using the $15 ACS tool. Took two tries. I'm
miking .340-.345 after the swage. I'm assuming .355 is a max and there's
nothing wrong with under??
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Aileron cable clearance and installation
>
> Bill,
> Obviously, you don't have your elevator cables in yet and their tension
> will put the torque tube rearward until
> the bearing 6V4-9 is engaged up front. If you've got contact at some rear
> point on the torque tube, I'd recommend
> you make the bearing just a little thicker to prevent that or raise the
> diagonal channel a bit at the rear.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> do not archive
>
> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>>
>> Dave and all-
>> By sheer coincidence I'm rigging the aileron cables in the c-section
>> of my HDS at the moment. If my lightening holes were 30mm forward, the
>> cables would just contact rib at the rear of the hole. Don't know if the
>> HDS clearance is proportional to the XL.
>> Two things that have me scratching my head as I progress-
>> One, I'm using a hybrid combination of kit parts and ACS turnbuckles.
>> The only kit parts are the .040 plates and AN hardware connecting the
>> cables to the bellcranks. I just hand tightened the castle nuts and
>> installed the cotter pins. I figured the plates should be able to move
>> freely so you didn't have any binding. Should I have torqued the nuts?
>> Two, it really bothers me that the torque tube can move fore and aft.
>> I can move it aft and get the rear of the tube to contact the cattycorner
>> cross brace and jam. The stop collar on the front of the tube is laid out
>> per the plans, but comes no where near the front bearing where it could
>> prevent this fore and aft movement. I suppose the control cables, once
>> tensioned, will prevent movement. Thoughts?
>> Bill Naumuk
>> HDS Fuse/Corvair
>> Townville, Pa
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Wright" <davidhwright@mac.com>
>> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:13 AM
>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Lightening holes on rear ribs of 601XL
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Larry / Ron
>>>
>>> Thanks for the suggestions
>>> I will try with the string
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
> Howard Hughes often filled sea planes with ping pong balls to provide
flotation with minimal weight.
If you tour the Spruce Goose at its home in McMinnville, OR
(www.sprucegoose.org/) a beach ball is on display. During the restoration of
the plane they found it in a cavity in the plane. The description says that
before the Goose's initial (and only) flight Hughes became concerned and had
various parts of the plane stuffed with the toys.
<quote>
According to an old-timer at Hughes, when the Spruce Goose flying boat was
flight-tested, it was filled with beach balls instead of the traditional
Ping-Pong balls used when testing most sea planes. Every available beach
ball in Los Angeles was purchased for the flight test. After the flight
test, the beach balls were handed out to the spectators. In retrospect, this
probably shows that Hughes did not intend to fly the aircraft again.
<end quote>
http://encycl.opentopia.com/term/Hughes_Aircraft
http://tinyurl.com/ytgyhk
-- Craig
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
I would not use ping pong balls. Have you ever lit one on fire as a kid?
It is pretty close to weapons grade explosives.
Gary Ray
Message 17
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| Subject: | Torque tube length |
Larry-
Did you find the plans torque tube length too long?
This is driving me nuts. We're talking an INCH too long to make
contact with the front bearing! I'm reluctant to cut the tube down in
order to move the stop ring back, but I can't see being off an inch in
the rest of my measurements.
My c-section uses the most Zenith kit parts of any flying surface.
The spar was prebuilt, so I couldn't screw that up and all the Z
crossmember locations are within =B1 2mm of plans (Hell, they couldn't
be otherwise because they're centered on the pre-drilled bottom skin
holes)!
WHAT'S GOING ON?? Is it pure coincidence that the cattycorner
channel was 1" short? Of course, it wouldn't make any difference in the
height of the channel because the contact points are the back of the
seat pan and the rear Z spar. You'd be sitting flat on your back if the
rear of the pan were 1" rearward. Even if I were off the 10mm on the
location of the back of the seat pan that was an earlier possibility,
that would only account for about 1mm additional clearance for the
torque tube bellcrank.
Like I say, I'm about to lose it. My research/build time ratio has
increased to 5:1.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
Message 18
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Listers,
I've been working on my canopy and it's driving me nuts. I got the tube
frames to fit the curvature of the bubble and I've been trying to line
everything up perfectly before drilling any holes. I must have spent
over an hour trying to get the edges on both sides of the bubble to line
up with the same spots on both sides of the frame. I finally realized
that the canopy bubble is not symmetrical. The length of the bottom
edge on the right side is 1015 mm and the left side is 990 mm. Has
anyone else encountered this problem?
Obviously there is no way to line this up evenly on both sides so now
I'm wondering if I should trim off the lower half inch on the short
(left) side. Since the front and back of the bubble angle outward,
trimming it in this way will increase the lower left edge length to
equal the 1015 on the right side but I'm afraid that I may screw up the
symmetry of the bubble curvature and create some other problem. I hate
to waste an entire weekend of building time waiting until Monday so I
can call Zenith. Opinions?
Mike Brenner
601HDS/ Jabiru 2200
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Torque tube length |
I don't remember if the torque tube was too long, but it's probably
better if you look at my picture links sent
previous, because they offer a better perspective. I think the closer
to the rear bearing, the better.
My diagonal channel was off as I recall and even with added length, it
needed to be elevated on spacers, but
this is not too much a worry because it's all an air fit for the crank
anyway.
Larry
Bill Naumuk wrote:
> Larry-
> Did you find the plans torque tube length too long?
> This is driving me nuts. We're talking an INCH too long to make
> contact with the front bearing! I'm reluctant to cut the tube down in
> order to move the stop ring back, but I can't see being off an inch in
> the rest of my measurements.
> My c-section uses the most Zenith kit parts of any flying surface.
> The spar was prebuilt, so I couldn't screw that up and all the Z
> crossmember locations are within 2mm of plans (Hell, they couldn't
> be otherwise because they're centered on the pre-drilled bottom skin
> holes)!
> WHAT'S GOING ON?? Is it pure coincidence that the cattycorner
> channel was 1" short? Of course, it wouldn't make any difference in
> the height of the channel because the contact points are the back of
> the seat pan and the rear Z spar. You'd be sitting flat on your back
> if the rear of the pan were 1" rearward. Even if I were off the 10mm
> on the location of the back of the seat pan that was an earlier
> possibility, that would only account for about 1mm additional
> clearance for the torque tube bellcrank.
> Like I say, I'm about to lose it. My research/build time ratio has
> increased to 5:1.
> Bill Naumuk
> HDS Fuse/Corvair
> Townville, Pa
> *========================================
>
> *
Message 20
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Hello, all
Has anybody considered Hartwell latches for the baggage locker?
It looks like a nice approach, no tools required to open/close - but why is
it that this is the only example I found??
I have seen several examples of oil doors, but no baggage lockers at all.
http://home.tiscali.nl/a.vandenelsen/rightwing2/rightwing2/images/Placed%20
Hartwell%20latches.jpg
http://home.tiscali.nl/a.vandenelsen/rightwing2/rightwing2/images/Closed%20
as%20advisable.jpg
(Builder is Andr=E9 van den Elsen, http://home.tiscali.nl/a.vandenelsen/)
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Torque tube length |
Larry-
I see that you shimmed the hell out of the cattycorner brace and agree
that the critical thing is to keep the torque tube bellcrank centered with
the aileron bellcranks. I'll be too far forward if I change the positioning
of the stop ring.
I figure the best thing to do is continue rigging the aileron cables
(I'm now 2 for 4, because I forgot to add the cable turnbuckle ends to one
side) and shim the cattycorner brace to clear the torque tube bellcranl at
it's aft plans position.
I think I'm through the Nico Press learning curve. Hardest and most time
consuming process to date. Can't screw up here.
Don't know how anyone could build one of these things before the
internet. I'm about to buy a voice modem so we can talk realtime!
Thanks, as always.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: Torque tube length
> Bill,
> The aileron torque tube crank in final position is necessarily going to be
> closer to the rear support than the rear spar, but the
> diagonal over it is close and you can see that I've spacers and larger
> sized rivets holding these together. The crank needs to
> be aligned with the bellcranks and centered on the arc of travel for the
> cables going thru the lightening holes.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/controltubeSm.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/bellcrankSm.gif
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/behindseat.gif
> On the Nicopress Sleeves the crimps begin on the sleeve center, then one
> nearest the thimble and lastly the one opposite
> the center crimp from the thimble. The crimp is made on the long dimension
> of both cables and measured the same way.
> (not across the flat minor dimension of the cables) The books say that
> the diameter of the swaged crimp for 1/8-inch cable should not exceed
> .3532. I used .355 as my max. No minimum mentioned.
>
> Larry
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy symmetry |
I had to do some trimming on mine to get it to fit. I think I trimmed
a bit off the bottom of one side but I also did some trimming front
and rear to fine tune the shape to match the fuselage and to get just
enough gap to get the rubber molding to fit. I used a pencil grinder
and ground it down a little at a time.
On Apr 7, 2007, at 3:27 PM, Mike Brenner wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I've been working on my canopy and it's driving me nuts. I got the
> tube frames to fit the curvature of the bubble and I've been trying
> to line everything up perfectly before drilling any holes. I must
> have spent over an hour trying to get the edges on both sides of
> the bubble to line up with the same spots on both sides of the
> frame. I finally realized that the canopy bubble is not
> symmetrical. The length of the bottom edge on the right side is
> 1015 mm and the left side is 990 mm. Has anyone else encountered
> this problem?
>
> Obviously there is no way to line this up evenly on both sides so
> now I'm wondering if I should trim off the lower half inch on the
> short (left) side. Since the front and back of the bubble angle
> outward, trimming it in this way will increase the lower left edge
> length to equal the 1015 on the right side but I'm afraid that I
> may screw up the symmetry of the bubble curvature and create some
> other problem. I hate to waste an entire weekend of building time
> waiting until Monday so I can call Zenith. Opinions?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy symmetry |
I'm not there yet but I did run across this idea and thought it had lots of merit.
>From ch601.org:
[url]http://www.ch601.org/resources/canopy_install/Canopyfitting2.pdf
[/url]
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105514#105514
Message 24
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| Subject: | crossing the Great Dead Horse |
Ping Pong balls only fill about 50% of the volume they occupy, so the
foam filler
idea above would improve that considerbly - perhaps you'd need 40% less
ping
pong balls - or about 8,400 balls instead.
+++ Yea, tongue in cheek, but some of you guys might think the expanding
foam thing a good idea...
Not if you want your structure to remain in the shape it was. I'll now
stop and see if Jim Hoak will tell us of his personal experiment in this
area.
Jim???
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | filing identifiers |
Dr. Andy,
As usual, Bryan's info is spot on. The CH80 is an update to this 8
August, 2000 post to this list. Weird to see the CH62 as it probably
hasn't seen air beneath its tires for years. I use CH60 and if queried
say, "Controllers handbook, reference Zenith," which usually stops them
dead or they look it up. Still they'll often ask for cruising speed.
You must have read that info bit in the AOPA e-newsletter.
jeff do not archive
from 8 August, 2000:
This gleaned from an article in the latest Sport Aviation:
The FAA has assigned a/c identifiers for many popular homebuilts.
Zenith/Zenair 600/601 is CH60
Zenith/Zenair 701 is CH70 (sorry, none out on 801 yet)+++ now updated
This is for those of you who file flight plans and need identifiers for
block 3 of the flight plan. The EAA recommends that you still put HXB
(100
to 200 knots) as first entry in the remarks section. Once your local
ATC
becomes familiar with your Zenith's performance, you might be able to
drop
this part in the remarks.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
Regarding water temps.... I have been on diving expeditions that were 20-30 miles
offshore in both L. Huron and L. Michigan. July and August temps may hit
the upper 60's at the surface, especially if there have been a few calm days
with lots of sun. During such times if you have to ditch you have a fair window
of survivability if you can get the message out for someone to come looking
for you. Even into October you can see temps in the 50's.
Forget about crossing L. Superior without a survival suit. That Lake never warms
up much above 50.
I always wear a lifejacket when crossing.... hopes for survival aside, it is easier
to collect on life insurance when they find a body.
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105524#105524
Message 27
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A friend of mine (yeah, right) is looking for a 701 cowl for a Rotax engine.
He may have mutilated his
mutilate (moo too late) a cow that moo's too late at night.....
If you know of anyone with a spare cowl, please let me know and I will forward
the information to him (yeah, right).
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
--------
Tommy Walker
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105541#105541
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| Subject: | Re: SPAL linear actuator from Surplus Center |
Hi Doug,
I purchased one some time ago and it's very good ! I mounted on two bits of .080
l back to back. There is enough clearance to miss the gear in the channel if
you're careful.
Controls are really simple to use and adjust so I mounted the 3 button controller
on a small bracket below the dash. I may change it later to just 2 positions
on the stick , Wait and see.
Steve in Perth, Aust (fmrly from Montreal lol)
Fus on wheels /Tail done/engine in / Just wings & details to do but they'll have
to wait 'til after I ship to NZ (where we're moving, again!)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105570#105570
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p4030019_946.jpg
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
davgray(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
> I would not use ping pong balls. Have you ever lit one on fire as a kid? It
is pretty close to weapons grade explosives.
It was a joke!
Now I know why I keep reading this forum. LOL
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105585#105585
Message 30
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| Subject: | Ejecting the canopy on the 601 |
There is a thread or two on this topic, mainly people concerned about bailing out
of their aircraft in midair. Forget where the plane goes after that - and screw
everyone else on the ground. [Laughing]
I thought I'd share a personal experience to ease your minds about the canopy.
I once took off with only one side latched (not intentional). While climbing out,
I decided to try to push down on the open side to complete the closure. Not
a chance, no matter how hard I pushed. In fact, it made the other side pop open.
I can tell you from personal experience that the canopy produces enough negative
pressure in flight to keep it about 3 inches above the normal closed position,
but it doesn't do much else.
I returned to land and shut it, naturally. I never had it happen again because
I make it part of my take-off checklist to visually look at the latch mechanism
to see it enguaged and I push up hard on the hoop on both sides to make sure
it doesn't budge.
Anyway, if you were going to make a forced landing in rough terain or trees or
a plowed field, it might be a good idea to pop the canopy right before landing.
It's too thin to give you any protection on a roll-over anyway, but at least
you wouldn't have to break your way out.
On the other hand, maybe best to leave it as is so as to reduce posibility of flying
canopy parts.
A tough call.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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| Subject: | Re: baggage locker |
I like it. Really nice work.
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
All joking aside, the idea might have merit for filling floats, 2nd line of
defense against a leaking float leaving your plane with one wingtip stuck in
the bottom.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David X
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 11:06 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: crossing the grear lakes
davgray(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
> I would not use ping pong balls. Have you ever lit one on fire as a kid?
It is pretty close to weapons grade explosives.
It was a joke!
Now I know why I keep reading this forum. LOL
--------
Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105585#105585
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