Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:57 AM - Skyshop FWF Instalation 701 (Roland Smith)
2. 07:18 AM - 701 Trailing edge rudder skin (Tom Lutz)
3. 07:20 AM - Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 (Southern Reflections)
4. 07:32 AM - Re: 701 Trailing edge rudder skin (Tom Lutz)
5. 08:17 AM - Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 (Bryan Martin)
6. 10:27 AM - Canopy front seal (Marco Rispoli)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: Canopy front seal (Gig Giacona)
8. 12:01 PM - Re: Canopy front seal (Bryan Martin)
9. 12:27 PM - Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation (vozzen)
10. 12:40 PM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (David Downey)
11. 01:31 PM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (Marco Rispoli)
12. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation (Bill Naumuk)
13. 03:14 PM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (Tim Shankland)
14. 03:35 PM - gasoline and paint (LarryMcFarland)
15. 03:52 PM - Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 (Southern Reflections)
16. 03:56 PM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (Southern Reflections)
17. 04:52 PM - Re: Canopy front seal (Tim Juhl)
18. 05:53 PM - Re: Re: Canopy front seal (Dino Bortolin)
19. 07:21 PM - ping pong balls, expanding foam, shrinking memory (Jeff Small)
20. 07:33 PM - canopy seal (Jeff Small)
21. 07:35 PM - Re: crossing the grear lakes ()
22. 07:58 PM - Kinda off subject ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Skyshop FWF Instalation 701 |
I'm starting a Skyshop FWF installation for my 701 and would love to
look at one already done in the Northeast. Can contact directly.
docponds@sover.net.
Roland Smith
Bennington, Vermont
Message 2
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| Subject: | 701 Trailing edge rudder skin |
I just finished riveting the rudder skeleton together. I also cut the
trailing edge skin as shown in the manual. I slid the skeleton into the
skin and it appears as if the skin goes past the bottom of the rear rib by 6
or 7mm at the trailing edge of the bottom rib. Is this normal? If not,
should I take another 6mm off the rear skin? I don't have much of a gap
between the spar and the top rib, so I think this may be part of my problem.
Is the bottom rib supposed to be snug against the spar, or can I bend it
down slightly to account for this?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 |
Is there any way you couldn't fly with it unlached all the time? Would it
help vent all stale air and help cooling in the hot florida sun. I had
thought about a safety lanyard that would stop the rise at 3",seems to me
that it would help for excess smoke in the cockpit My frist flight in a 601
,1 drop of oil dripped onthe eng, or some where hot, the smell filled the
cockpit in a flash and was very strong(hot oil) when we landed we couldn't
find a ,sign of a leak any where not even 1 small drop, what would a real
oil leak,or fire do?
----- Original Message ----- Joe N101HD
From: "David X" <dxj@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 12:19 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Ejecting the canopy on the 601
>
> There is a thread or two on this topic, mainly people concerned about
> bailing out of their aircraft in midair. Forget where the plane goes after
> that - and screw everyone else on the ground. [Laughing]
>
> I thought I'd share a personal experience to ease your minds about the
> canopy.
>
> I once took off with only one side latched (not intentional). While
> climbing out, I decided to try to push down on the open side to complete
> the closure. Not a chance, no matter how hard I pushed. In fact, it made
> the other side pop open.
>
> I can tell you from personal experience that the canopy produces enough
> negative pressure in flight to keep it about 3 inches above the normal
> closed position, but it doesn't do much else.
>
> I returned to land and shut it, naturally. I never had it happen again
> because I make it part of my take-off checklist to visually look at the
> latch mechanism to see it enguaged and I push up hard on the hoop on both
> sides to make sure it doesn't budge.
>
> Anyway, if you were going to make a forced landing in rough terain or
> trees or a plowed field, it might be a good idea to pop the canopy right
> before landing. It's too thin to give you any protection on a roll-over
> anyway, but at least you wouldn't have to break your way out.
>
> On the other hand, maybe best to leave it as is so as to reduce posibility
> of flying canopy parts.
>
> A tough call.
>
> --------
> Zodiac 601 XL - CZAW Built - Rotax 912S
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105586#105586
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Trailing edge rudder skin |
Meh....never mind. I took a look at the bottom rib. I can bend it down so
it lines up nicely with the skin, and it still lines up with the inside
edges parallel to the spar flange.
On 4/8/07, Tom Lutz <tommylutz@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I just finished riveting the rudder skeleton together. I also cut the
> trailing edge skin as shown in the manual. I slid the skeleton into the
> skin and it appears as if the skin goes past the bottom of the rear rib by 6
> or 7mm at the trailing edge of the bottom rib. Is this normal? If not,
> should I take another 6mm off the rear skin? I don't have much of a gap
> between the spar and the top rib, so I think this may be part of my problem.
>
>
> Is the bottom rib supposed to be snug against the spar, or can I bend it
> down slightly to account for this?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 |
I once had the dipstick come loose on my engine and oil got all over
the top of the engine and the firewall. I was leaving a pretty good
smoke trail but barely detected a hint of oil smell in the cabin.
It sounds like you have a fair amount of air leaking into the cabin
from the engine compartment. I would be more worried about exhaust
leaking than a little oil smoke. My firewall is completely sealed off
in flight
> <purplemoon99@bellsouth.net>
>
> Is there any way you couldn't fly with it unlatched all the time?
> Would it help vent all stale air and help cooling in the hot
> florida sun. I had thought about a safety lanyard that would stop
> the rise at 3",seems to me that it would help for excess smoke in
> the cockpit My first flight in a 601 ,1 drop of oil dripped on the
> eng, or some where hot, the smell filled the cockpit in a flash and
> was very strong(hot oil) when we landed we couldn't find a ,sign of
> a leak any where not even 1 small drop, what would a real oil
> leak,or fire do?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Canopy front seal |
Hello everyone. I have been lurking around this email list for a while (and
I pop in a question or two occasionally). I haven't started building yet a
nd I am still on the sidelines as to what I want to build, although after a
year or more of browsing around I seem to come back to the XL more and mor
e. In fact at the end of the day, it seems like the airplane that fits my m
ission profile #2 most perfectly: easy, simple, reasonable price (my missio
n profile #1 is an airplane that burns 3gph, travels at 550kts, carries 6 p
eople and is capable of at least 1000fpm climb at altitudes above FL600, wi
th unlimited vertical and horizontal visibility so I can take pics of the S
pace Shuttle when it's on approach. If anyone knows about such a kit, pleas
e let me know, otherwise I am going to have to settle for the Zenith kit. T
hanks!)
Jokes aside, the XL really does fit what I want (and most importantly, what
I can build). In the past year I was able to get a close look at a dozen o
f them and managed to scrounge rides in a couple of them. It was most impre
ssive. The visibility is absolutely to die for and it handles like a little
jet-fighter. For someone (like me) that comes from years of heavy-ass Cher
okees, it's a breath of fresh air.
One of the things I noticed that bugged me a lot is the canopy front seal.
It looks iffy and I have noticed that in some cases there was a visible gap
at the lower extremities between the canopy seal and the fuselage. In my e
xperience I have flown in VFR weather and yet a few sparse clouds have had
the temerity of taking a (significant) twinkle on me, even if ceilings were
high and visibility was unlimited. So, for what i have seen, precipitation
(in spring time especially) can be crazy-funny and doesn't necessarily hav
e to come with IFR weather or even marginal VFR.
Hence, I get the feeling that in most of those planes I saw, there wouldn't
have been any way to prevent water from getting into the cockpit in flight
(I am sure that there's gotta be a way to seal those gaps when the plane i
s parked ... maybe a canopy cover or something).
Even if I decide to stick to VFR flying (which, I can't really promise ;) )
, I can't possibly stay on the ground with 20 miles of vis and ceilings at
6000 if rain decides to drop.
In all your experience as builders, have you figured out a way or saw a sol
ution where the front canopy seal was made water proof? I know that real-li
fe planes are anything BUT water proof, even my Cherokee gets water if it r
ains hard, but one thing is a drop or two of water, a completely different
thing is a full one inch opening, right in front of the canopy and when you
are flying, rain comes at you horizontally, not from the top.
Has anybody given any thought to this?
Any insight, opinions or pictures of the front seal, are welcome.
Thank you!!
Marco Rispoli
NJ - Central Jersey/47N
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
I've seen serveral, including the factory plane, that weren't sealed well. Some
do it on purpose for ventilation or so they say. I've also seen on that was sealed
so well you could hit it with a high pressure hose and not get any leaks.
As someone that is in the canopy attachment phase at this time I think it can be
done where it will provide a good seal. It will just be a matter of using the
proper rubber gasket and some trial and error will be required.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105701#105701
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
That front seal can be made water tight, it takes careful trimming
and test fitting of the canopy during construction. I logged 96 hours
on building and fitting the canopy on my plane. It's one of the more
time consuming parts of the construction process. I have gotten a
little water in the cabin when it was tied outdoors during heavy
rains, I think it was coming in around the hinge area. I don't have
any gaps in the seal in flight.
On Apr 8, 2007, at 1:25 PM, Marco Rispoli wrote:
>
> In all your experience as builders, have you figured out a way or
> saw a solution where the front canopy seal was made water proof? I
> know that real-life planes are anything BUT water proof, even my
> Cherokee gets water if it rains hard, but one thing is a drop or
> two of water, a completely different thing is a full one inch
> opening, right in front of the canopy and when you are flying, rain
> comes at you horizontally, not from the top.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
I just finished the aileron cables on XL kit, thought I'd pass on some related
suggestions:
Mount the wing first -- before drilling the aileron cable fairlead holes in the
fuse sideskins. I found a VERY tight clearance (for the balance cable) between
the edge of the rib lightening hole and the seat back. After marking the
position of the wing on the fuse side, I transferred the position of the fwd
lightening hole on the same skin, using spar and wing bottom as references.
Apparently, ZAC has noted the problem, and modified the plans to add a flat nylon
piece, flush against the seat back, to keep the cable from rubbing.
Likewise, I suggest waiting to drill the flap control tube hole until the wing
is mounted. It's been said before.
Bill, the HDS cables are run different from the XL, but like Larry said, the elevator
cables hold the torque tube back.
>AN hardware connecting the cables to the bellcranks. I just hand >tightened the
castle nuts and installed the cotter pins. I figured the >plates should be able
to move freely so you didn't have any binding. >Should I have torqued the
nuts?
I'd say no, the cable shackles should be free to pivot.
>miking .340-.345 after the swage
same numbers I used.
I struggled with the cheap (bolt style) nico-crimper too long. I finished up
with a borrowed "real" crimper, found it took about 1/10th the time. Live and
learn....
tio Rico, XL/3300, Kansas City Slugworks West
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105715#105715
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
I have been wondering the same thins about the lip seal. What actually causes potential
gaps? Is it loose trimming of the bubble? Is it not having the lip seal
fitted so that th lip actually works? Does the forward deck skin deflect locally
and unpredictably thereby allowing leaks?
Has anyone thought of building the forward skin as a sandwich structure to give
the lip seal a "rigid" but lightweight seating surface?
Comments?
I've seen serveral, including the factory plane, that weren't sealed well. Some
do it on purpose for ventilation or so they say. I've also seen on that was sealed
so well you could hit it with a high pressure hose and not get any leaks.
As someone that is in the canopy attachment phase at this time I think it can be
done where it will provide a good seal. It will just be a matter of using the
proper rubber gasket and some trial and error will be required.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105701#105701
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
I was actually thinking about some sort of "splash-guard" right in front of
the seal. Doesn't have to be big, just tall enough to deflect water upward
s and away from the seal, while in flight. Dunno if it would work.
When parked, you can find all sorts of sealing solutions to keep the water
out. Just a thought ...
e: Zenith-List: Re: Canopy front sealTo: zenith-list@matronics.comI have be
en wondering the same thins about the lip seal. What actually causes potent
ial gaps? Is it loose trimming of the bubble? Is it not having the lip seal
fitted so that th lip actually works? Does the forward deck skin deflect l
ocally and unpredictably thereby allowing leaks?Has anyone thought of build
ing the forward skin as a sandwich structure to give the lip seal a "rigid"
but lightweight seating surface?Comments?Gig Giacona <wr.giacona@suddenlin
k.net> wrote:
ing the factory plane, that weren't sealed well. Some do it on purpose for
ventilation or so they say. I've also seen on that was sealed so well you c
ould hit it with a high pressure hose and not get any leaks.As someone that
is in the
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast with theYahoo! Search w
eather shortcut.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation |
Vozzen and all-
Still struggling with the cattycorner brace. Flamers can put out your
torches, my posts are just thinking out loud hoping I'll flush out a
solution. Haven't done anything drastic. One of Jeff Small's pictures shows
a possible solution. Still waiting to hear from him. All other HD/HDS
people, feel free to chime in.
I managed to get the aileron cables on and swaged with the ACS tool.
Quite a juggling act. Probably not as pretty as if I used one of the "Real"
tools, but it took 15 minutes at the bench grinder and a couple of dozen
smacks with a cold chisel to try and save the thimble from a bad swage. If
that was a bad swage, the good ones aren't coming apart! Needless to say,
the thimble was toast.
Two steps forward, one foot still in the air waiting to come down.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "vozzen" <vozzen@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 3:26 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Aileron cable clearance and installation
>
> I just finished the aileron cables on XL kit, thought I'd pass on some
> related suggestions:
>
> Mount the wing first -- before drilling the aileron cable fairlead holes
> in the fuse sideskins. I found a VERY tight clearance (for the balance
> cable) between the edge of the rib lightening hole and the seat back.
> After marking the position of the wing on the fuse side, I transferred the
> position of the fwd lightening hole on the same skin, using spar and wing
> bottom as references. Apparently, ZAC has noted the problem, and
> modified the plans to add a flat nylon piece, flush against the seat back,
> to keep the cable from rubbing.
>
> Likewise, I suggest waiting to drill the flap control tube hole until the
> wing is mounted. It's been said before.
>
> Bill, the HDS cables are run different from the XL, but like Larry said,
> the elevator cables hold the torque tube back.
>
>>AN hardware connecting the cables to the bellcranks. I just hand
>> >tightened the castle nuts and installed the cotter pins. I figured the
>> >plates should be able to move freely so you didn't have any binding.
>> >Should I have torqued the nuts?
>
> I'd say no, the cable shackles should be free to pivot.
>
>>miking .340-.345 after the swage
>
> same numbers I used.
>
> I struggled with the cheap (bolt style) nico-crimper too long. I
> finished up with a borrowed "real" crimper, found it took about 1/10th the
> time. Live and learn....
>
> tio Rico, XL/3300, Kansas City Slugworks West
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105715#105715
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
What I did on mine was to go to Advance Auto and buy a roll of weather
seal tape. The stuff I got is about 1/8 inch thick and about 1/2/ to 3/4
inch wide. I put it down on the fuselage just behind where the rubber
seal for the canopy hits. This way anyplace that the canopy seal doesn't
touch metal it will the rubber seal. This provides an additional
benefit. If any rain leaks past the canopy seal during flight it will be
directed to the sides and down.
Tim Shankland
David Downey wrote:
> I have been wondering the same thins about the lip seal. What actually
> causes potential gaps? Is it loose trimming of the bubble? Is it not
> having the lip seal fitted so that th lip actually works? Does the
> forward deck skin deflect locally and unpredictably thereby allowing
> leaks?
>
> Has anyone thought of building the forward skin as a sandwich
> structure to give the lip seal a "rigid" but lightweight seating surface?
>
> Comments?
>
> Gig Giacona <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>
>
> I've seen serveral, including the factory plane, that weren't
> sealed well. Some do it on purpose for ventilation or so they say.
> I've also seen on that was sealed so well you could hit it with a
> high pressure hose and not get any leaks.
>
> As someone that is in the
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
> <http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/?fr=oni_on_mail&#news>
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
> <http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/?fr=oni_on_mail&#news>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | gasoline and paint |
Hi guys,
I just found something that may interest you that
have painted planes. I have an overflow from the header
tank at the extreme right side of the center section. I managed
to see a little paint that was crinkled near the fitting and realized
the fitting had not been tightened. The minor seepage was stopped
by tightening, but touch up will be required.
An RV in the next hangar also has paint coming off and we've
concluded that even just a little automotive fuel will dissolve nearly
any catalyzed paint there is, so it's prudent to cover your filler
with an apron before filling. I do this and fortunately the topsides
are fine. The 6-inch area around my over flow is another matter.
Guess I'll have to get out the little roller and have at it.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Ejecting the canopy on the 601 |
wasn' my plane, it was one built in the chez rep. Didn't your out side air
vents suck any of that outside oil smoke in? Joe N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Ejecting the canopy on the 601
>
> I once had the dipstick come loose on my engine and oil got all over the
> top of the engine and the firewall. I was leaving a pretty good smoke
> trail but barely detected a hint of oil smell in the cabin.
>
> It sounds like you have a fair amount of air leaking into the cabin from
> the engine compartment. I would be more worried about exhaust leaking
> than a little oil smoke. My firewall is completely sealed off in flight
>
>
>> <purplemoon99@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Is there any way you couldn't fly with it unlatched all the time? Would
>> it help vent all stale air and help cooling in the hot florida sun. I
>> had thought about a safety lanyard that would stop the rise at 3",seems
>> to me that it would help for excess smoke in the cockpit My first flight
>> in a 601 ,1 drop of oil dripped on the eng, or some where hot, the smell
>> filled the cockpit in a flash and was very strong(hot oil) when we
>> landed we couldn't find a ,sign of a leak any where not even 1 small
>> drop, what would a real oil leak,or fire do?
>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> N61BM, CH 601 XL,
> RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
> do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
I'de like to see that !! I've never seen one that did not leak includeing
the factory built ones. Not to mention mine... Joe
N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Canopy front seal
> <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
>
> I've seen serveral, including the factory plane, that weren't sealed well.
> Some do it on purpose for ventilation or so they say. I've also seen on
> that was sealed so well you could hit it with a high pressure hose and not
> get any leaks.
>
> As someone that is in the canopy attachment phase at this time I think it
> can be done where it will provide a good seal. It will just be a matter of
> using the proper rubber gasket and some trial and error will be required.
>
> --------
> W.R. "Gig" Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105701#105701
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
I've owned two Cessnas (182 & 172) and an Aeronca Champ. All leaked somewhat despite
my best attempts to seal them. On a historical note, DC3 crews were provided
with rubber aprons to wear while flying in rain.
I haven't got to the canopy install phase yet but I suspect the amount of seal
you'll get will be directly proportional to the amount of effort you want to put
into fitting it. All designs are a compromise and I for one appreciate the
KISS principle that guided the design of the XL.
Tim Juhl
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=105765#105765
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy front seal |
The canopy fitting method described at
http://ch601.org/resources/canopy_install/Canopyfitting2.pdf has been
mentioned a few times. If you look at page 7, there are a few pictures of
the front canopy area. At this point, the canopy had been marked, cut, and
hadn't even been sanded smooth yet, but you can already see how tight the
fit is.
Dino Bortolin
On 4/8/07, Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net> wrote:
>
>
> I've owned two Cessnas (182 & 172) and an Aeronca Champ. All leaked
> somewhat despite my best attempts to seal them. On a historical note, DC3
> crews were provided with rubber aprons to wear while flying in rain.
>
> I haven't got to the canopy install phase yet but I suspect the amount of
> seal you'll get will be directly proportional to the amount of effort you
> want to put into fitting it. All designs are a compromise and I for one
> appreciate the KISS principle that guided the design of the XL.
>
> Tim Juhl
>
> CFII
> Champ L16A flying
> Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
> Working on wings
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | ping pong balls, expanding foam, shrinking memory |
Would have sworn it was Jim Hoak who recounted filling his No Step area
(old HD, HDS builders only) with expanding foam, looking at it next day
and pronouncing it 'good.' Went away for a few weeks and when he
returned the foam had continued to expand ever so slightly, but still
sufficient to balloon the fairing and elongate rivet holes. Had a
'do-over' on his hands.
Jim claims it wasn't he and since he's more than willing to share his
wing rebuild miscue with the Zenith building fraternity, I believe him.
Now...if you were standing in the shade of the 'fish restaurant' tent at
OSH during that overly HOT convention of 1999 and recounted this story
to a few other builders, please let me know or I'm racking it up to a
brain fart. The only other builder I remember in the group was Bill
Nichelson and he is no longer on the list.
Jim did recount the story of the very, very prepared ultralight flier
who flew to OSH a few years later and, because he had to cross a few
sizable lakes, filled the zippered compartments of his craft with
inflated condoms - hundreds of them.
do not archive
jeff
Message 20
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I have been wondering the same thing about the lip seal. What actually
causes potential
gaps? Is it loose trimming of the bubble? Is it not having the lip seal
fitted so that the lip actually works? Does the forward deck skin
deflect locally
and unpredictably thereby allowing leaks?
+++ What does it is sloppy workmanship even in the factory versions.
You get from your project a result commensurate to the care and time you
put in. Trim the canopy correctly (mine needed very little trimming) so
that it sets on the skins evenly over the entire contact area front and
rear before applying the sealing strip. If you decide to allow the
sealing strip to fill in little gaps you'll get that in the final look.
BTW, Chris used to recommend the "pencil" method of fresh air intake -
now this was a looonng time ago. He would stick a pencil up under the
rubber seal and use that in hot wx. If you have one of the old Zenith
posters with the original red demonstrators (one of them Chris' personal
a/c) you can see it with help of a magnifying glass.
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: crossing the grear lakes |
This was written up in one of the mags, maybe Sport Aviation----A few
years ago some guy flew an ultralight from almost the tip of South
America to the US (maybe Oshkosh.) He filled his wings with inflated
condoms to assure flotation if he went down over water. At one of his
beachfront landings, the police thought he was a drug smuggler, then let
him go. If it were up to me, I'd prefer not to use styrofoam, or
equivalent, or seal too tight for fear of collecting moisture that
couldn't be blown away in flight.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
(Yep. still on that *&^T%%$#@canopy)
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron Gustafson<mailto:agustafson@chartermi.net>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: crossing the grear lakes
<agustafson@chartermi.net<mailto:agustafson@chartermi.net>>
<<Water ditching>>
I have thought about this quite a few times as I live amongst the
great
lakes (Iron Mountain, Michigan). I'm sure that minimal exposure to the
need
to ditch in the water is the best prevention (ie. fly high, fly across
islands or fly around water etc.). However in the event of a water
ditching,
I assume that for whatever length of time the aircraft stays at the
surface,
regardless of how it enters or flips, it will most likely float with
the
nose down, tail up due to the weight of the engine(assuming a low wing
airplane). In that attitude it is not a very good platform to support
a
person. It will probably not stay at the surface for long as the water
entering all the openings will quickly force out the air and thereby
buoyancy. It seems the trick would be to add permanent buoyancy to the
structure. This could be done by sealing enough of the spaces to
retain
their buoyancy or filling them with a light medium. A possible side
effect
of sealing a chamber would be the positive or negative air pressure
which
could deform the structure to the point of unairworthyness. Filling
chambers
with, lets say, foam, could cause a corrosion problem also. One cubic
foot
of foam or air space should displace about 36 pounds of water, so it
would
take about 20 cubic feet of floatation to hold up a 720 pound craft.
That
works out to 10 spaces the size of a 12 gallon fuel tank. (I don't
know how
many cans of 'Great Stuff' that would take). I would be interested to
read
of someone else's work or experience with this situation.
I've decided to do nothing at this point, but the thoughts are still
there!
And now I have let you into my brain and exposed myself to praise,
ridicule
or something in between.
Aaron Gustafson do not archive
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Zenith-List>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Kinda off subject |
Acutally, it's only related in that we're talking aircraft. Does
anybody know where a mildly insane guy could find the blueprints, or
construction drawings of the old Curtiss P-40? The Loehle kit is very
nice and all, but it's wood/fabric, and cruise is 85. Heintz technology
and construction methods would make for a wonderful scaled P-40 LSA. 10
or 15 years down the road, when I get this one done, a single-seater
would be cool.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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