Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:08 AM - Re: Determining Center of Firewall? (David Downey)
2. 03:10 AM - Re: Harbor Freight Aircraft Tools (David Downey)
3. 05:01 AM - Re: Harbor Freight Aircraft Tools (Geoff Heap)
4. 05:51 AM - Re: Short field and CH 701 (Joe Spencer)
5. 06:16 AM - 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (Russell J.)
6. 06:47 AM - Re: Determining Center of Firewall? (Clyde Barcus)
7. 07:04 AM - Re: Determining Center of Firewall? ()
8. 07:16 AM - cost to build 601-xl (haven)
9. 07:20 AM - 701 kit parts for sale (LRM)
10. 07:28 AM - Magazine Cover (ZodieRocket)
11. 07:33 AM - Re: Short field and CH 701 (Ken and Cathy Buchmann)
12. 07:50 AM - Re: Short field and CH 701 (Jerry Hey)
13. 08:29 AM - Re: cost to build 601-xl (TxDave)
14. 08:54 AM - Re: Re: cost to build 601-xl (Jerry Hey)
15. 08:58 AM - Re: Corvair firewall (Gig Giacona)
16. 09:24 AM - Re: Re: cost to build 601-xl (Big Gee)
17. 10:07 AM - Re: cost to build 601-xl (William Dominguez)
18. 12:14 PM - Re: Re: cost to build 601-xl (MacDonald Doug)
19. 02:19 PM - Re: place for Headsets (Gig Giacona)
20. 02:38 PM - Re: Re: place for Headsets (Ben52425@aol.com)
21. 02:53 PM - Re: Re: cost to build 601-xl (ZodieRocket)
22. 03:22 PM - Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request (Bill Naumuk)
23. 03:28 PM - Re: cost to build 601-xl (Bill Naumuk)
24. 03:42 PM - Re: Corvair firewall (Bill Naumuk)
25. 04:00 PM - Re: Re: cost to build 601-xl (Paul Mulwitz)
26. 06:01 PM - I'll rephrase the question (Bill Naumuk)
27. 06:30 PM - Re: Determining Center of Firewall? (Ron Lendon)
28. 07:18 PM - Re: Re: Determining Center of Firewall? (Edward Moody II)
29. 07:31 PM - Re: cost to build 601-xl (Ron Lendon)
30. 08:08 PM - Re: Corvair firewall (Brandon Tucker)
31. 08:09 PM - SPAL linear actuator and controller (MacDonald Doug)
32. 08:11 PM - Sun-N-Fun BBQ (ZodieRocket)
33. 09:18 PM - Re: Re: Corvair firewall (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Determining Center of Firewall? |
one way to acheive a near "average" centerline:
Cut out a cardboard pattern that will fit precisely inside the flanges of the
firewall blank from bend radius tangent to bend radius tangent. Perhaps some
odd shaped holes in the cardboard near the edges that can be traced with a sharpie
for matching positioning later?
Mark or cut the existing "tooling holes" holes in the cardboard from the firewall
Then turn over the cardboard and re-trim to fit as well as possible. Trace the
odd shaped hole in the cardboard on the firewall with a sharpie again to allow
repositioning later.
Re-mark or cut the hole locations in the cardboard.
Find the center between each set of holes in the cardboard and drill a 1/16"
pilot hole in the cardboard there.
Replace the cardboard in the firewall and position with that set of alignment
marks. Make a sharpie mark through the 1/16" holes in the cardboard.
Flip the cardboard and repeat.
Remove the cardboard.
Find the center between each pair of pilot hole markings: there is the centerline.
Note that you can do this even if there are no pilot holes to transfer from teh
part. The greater the distance between the 1/16" pilot holes in the cardboard,
the greater the precision of this technique to find the center of a non symmetrical
part.
Michael Valentine <mgvalentine@gmail.com> wrote: Listers - how does one go about
finding the center of the firewall? My firewall came with two tooling holes
pre-drilled. I could obviously just draw a line between them. But, when I stick
my square on the bottom edge, the holes are not perfectly aligned - the top
hole is approximately 1-1.5mm off the line if I center the lower hole. The
flanged bottom edge is not a perfect line itself, so I'm not sure it is the
best place to square, but there are no other options. Also, in terms of side-to-side
measurement, the darn thing is curved so it is tough to simply measure
a centerline that way.
I'm sure I'm being dumb, but suggestions appreciated!
Michael in NH
Making progress on the fuse...601XL
do not archive
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight Aircraft Tools |
Hi Lynn;
Yeah, I looked to see where you are and Bill Namuk, and , and, and...
If I do I will! Please feel free to do the same if you're in SEPA. Note that I
am still grinding on details and have not yet started making drill chips - but
that is coming very soon!
do not archive
Lynn & Nancy <ding@tbscc.com> wrote: Dave of Harleysville,
If you ever get up to the other corner of the state,
stop and visit.
Lynn 601XL / Corvair
Corry, PA
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Harbor Freight Aircraft Tools |
Looks like the $59 riveters I used to get from JC Whitney. I went through 3 of
them before I bought a better quality gun from Grainger, A dayton for $220. that
lasted no longer. Now I'm going back to CHEAP so I ordered one. Thanks for
the tip...Geoff
Geoff Heap 701/dual controls/912 rotax /Looking at Enigma/ do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106220#106220
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Short field and CH 701 |
I have a 600 foot strip with tall trees about 200 yards from the
threshold. No problem landing on the end and 600 feet is plenty. I also
have a 250 foot strip with clear approaches and that can be a little
tight-things have to be just so and then it's a little hard on the plane
because of the braking often required.
Joe
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| Subject: | 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request |
> Just to complete the picture, here's a shot of my goof. Hopefully, others
> will learn from it. Read the plans 100 times then look for a photo! As
> a
> reference, the O/B end is already cut and fits perfectly.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help and responses. If you have a photo that
> matches this shot, but the "right" way I would appreciate a copy.
>
> Mitch
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Mitch:
Is the attached pictures what you were looking for?
Russell Johnson / 601-HDS
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Determining Center of Firewall? |
Michael,
I had the same problem, the top hole was way off. It took a lot of
fussing with it to get the center line, I basically had to ignore the
top tooling hole and the bottom flange was no where near straight. I
assembled everything and mounted it to the cabin floor, that is when I
noticed a hairline crack in the flange near the top motor mount hole. I
called Zenith, they seem surprised but really didn't give me any flack.
The replacement is far superior to the old one, especially the bottom
flange, it is straight across with the back angle pretty close. I
strongly suggest you look very close for cracks so you don't waste as
much time as I did. I have had other problems with parts but I have to
admit their response was always good and the replacements usually
arrived within three or four days.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Wings, Tail & Engine Complete
Working on Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Valentine
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 10:04 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Determining Center of Firewall?
Listers - how does one go about finding the center of the firewall?
My firewall came with two tooling holes pre-drilled. I could obviously
just draw a line between them. But, when I stick my square on the
bottom edge, the holes are not perfectly aligned - the top hole is
approximately 1-1.5mm off the line if I center the lower hole. The
flanged bottom edge is not a perfect line itself, so I'm not sure it is
the best place to square, but there are no other options. Also, in
terms of side-to-side measurement, the darn thing is curved so it is
tough to simply measure a centerline that way.
I'm sure I'm being dumb, but suggestions appreciated!
Michael in NH
Making progress on the fuse...601XL
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Determining Center of Firewall? |
I'm not sure if I did it correctly but I found the widest point and marked the
middle (side to side). Then I intersected that mark with a square aligned with
the bottom edge of the firewall and drew that vertical line to be used as the
centerline.
Dred
---- Michael Valentine <mgvalentine@gmail.com> wrote:
> Listers - how does one go about finding the center of the firewall? My
> firewall came with two tooling holes pre-drilled. I could obviously just
> draw a line between them. But, when I stick my square on the bottom edge,
> the holes are not perfectly aligned - the top hole is approximately
> 1-1.5mmoff the line if I center the lower hole. The flanged bottom
> edge is not a
> perfect line itself, so I'm not sure it is the best place to square, but
> there are no other options. Also, in terms of side-to-side measurement, the
> darn thing is curved so it is tough to simply measure a centerline that way.
>
> I'm sure I'm being dumb, but suggestions appreciated!
>
> Michael in NH
> Making progress on the fuse...601XL
>
> do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | cost to build 601-xl |
does anyone have a comparison of the cost to build a 601xl from the plans vs the
cost of the kit? This cost would not include avionics or engine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106254#106254
Message 9
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| Subject: | 701 kit parts for sale |
I have a friend who has started a 701 kit. He has finished the rudder,
horizontal, elevator, slats and most of one wing. He has the rest of
the wing kit. He has four tanks, two aluminum 10 gallon tanks with
gauges from Zenith and two extra capacity (14 gal each) fiberglass tanks
I had built for him. He had planned on returning the Zenith tanks for
credit on the fuselage kit, but hasn't. He does not have the fuselage
kit. He has finally reached the conclusion that he is not a finisher
thus he wants to sell. He told me he would take 75 cents on the dollar.
He is located in central Arkansas. Contact me via my e-mail or phone,
it's on my site and I will put you in contact with him.
Here's a chance to get a fast start and save a few bucks.
PS, the tools I've loaned him are not part of the deal.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
Message 10
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Gents, I'm looking for a Magazine Cover shot of a 601XL in flight. I
would prefer a Canadian Registration due to Canadian content. However if
I don't get one then I would love to take any pictures. Please make sure
that they are high res. Thanks Guys, There is a bit of a rush on this.
Mark Townsend
Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
president@can-zacaviation.com
www.can-zacaviation.com
--
10:44 PM
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Short field and CH 701 |
Jerry:
I have a 1800` open on both ends, I never fly final slower than 50 mph
or 701 drops like a rock resulting in a hard landing. Once on the ground
cut power apply brakes 701 will stop ground roll. With 912uls The take
off is fullpower off the ground at 28mph continue climb at 60mph pull
power to maintain 60mph (1000fp).Fun! 60 Is best glide.
Regards,
Ken
Missouri
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Short field and CH 701 |
Thanks for the info. As I understand it you are carrying some power
all the way to touch down or just until the flair?
Jerry (Mentally flying my yet to built airplane unto my yet to
be built strip)
On Apr 11, 2007, at 10:33 AM, Ken and Cathy Buchmann wrote:
> Jerry:
> I have a 1800` open on both ends, I never fly final slower than 50
> mph or 701 drops like a rock resulting in a hard landing. Once on
> the ground cut power apply brakes 701 will stop ground roll. With
> 912uls The take off is fullpower off the ground at 28mph continue
> climb at 60mph pull power to maintain 60mph (1000fp).Fun! 60 Is
> best glide.
>
> Regards,
> Ken
> Missouri
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
It is much less expensive to build from plans. For example, ZAC charges $2145 for
the center spar and both main spars. I have probably less than $300 invested
in the same parts. Another example is the wing rear channels. ZAC charges $140
each (you'll need 2). Making them myself took maybe 1/3 of a sheet of aluminum
to form both pieces for a total cost of about $30.
It all comes down to time vs money. If you want to get flying quicker go with the
kit. If you can't afford the kit then scratch build. If you don't have any
sheet metal experience you'll have to learn the necessary skills. I had absolutely
no building experience when I started. If I can scratch build anyone can.
The homebuilthelp.com videos really help.
One of the great things about building a 601XL from plans is the fact that you
can purchase any individual part from Zenith. Also, you will still receive great
technical support.
Sorry for rambling.
Dave Clay
601XL plans builder
Temple, TX
http://www.daves601xl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106278#106278
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
David, I want to scratch build a 701 so I am very interested in your
experience. Did you buy a shear, brake, etc. Can you give me a
short list of essential tooling, hand, air and so on. I have
ordered one of the videos from homebuilthelp.com. I am hoping it
arrives today. Thanks, Jerry
On Apr 11, 2007, at 11:28 AM, TxDave wrote:
>
> It is much less expensive to build from plans. For example, ZAC
> charges $2145 for the center spar and both main spars. I have
> probably less than $300 invested in the same parts. Another example
> is the wing rear channels. ZAC charges $140 each (you'll need 2).
> Making them myself took maybe 1/3 of a sheet of aluminum to form
> both pieces for a total cost of about $30.
>
> It all comes down to time vs money. If you want to get flying
> quicker go with the kit. If you can't afford the kit then scratch
> build. If you don't have any sheet metal experience you'll have to
> learn the necessary skills. I had absolutely no building experience
> when I started. If I can scratch build anyone can. The
> homebuilthelp.com videos really help.
>
> One of the great things about building a 601XL from plans is the
> fact that you can purchase any individual part from Zenith. Also,
> you will still receive great technical support.
>
> Sorry for rambling.
>
> Dave Clay
> 601XL plans builder
> Temple, TX
> http://www.daves601xl.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106278#106278
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair firewall |
This is what I did and when I got WW's engine mount it went on without a problem.
Jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
> Bill,
> I discovered that the dimensions given in the drawings for the location of the
attach bolts is not very accurate. It is best to locate them with the attach
brackets that are behind the firewall and attached to longerons. It would be
best to drill pilot holes in the center of the face of the brackets, locate
the brackets, then drill the holes in the firewall.
>
> Jay in Dallas [b]
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106285#106285
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
I agree 100% with what Dave said below. Also without doing a lot of math, I believe
it is a fair statement to say: Scratch building the 601XL, I have saved
enough money to buy a William Wynne built corvair engine and prop.
Fritz-- scratch builder
TxDave <dclaytx2@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
It is much less expensive to build from plans. For example, ZAC charges $2145 for
the center spar and both main spars. I have probably less than $300 invested
in the same parts. Another example is the wing rear channels. ZAC charges $140
each (you'll need 2). Making them myself took maybe 1/3 of a sheet of aluminum
to form both pieces for a total cost of about $30.
It all comes down to time vs money. If you want to get flying quicker go with the
kit. If you can't afford the kit then scratch build. If you don't have any
sheet metal experience you'll have to learn the necessary skills. I had absolutely
no building experience when I started. If I can scratch build anyone can.
The homebuilthelp.com videos really help.
One of the great things about building a 601XL from plans is the fact that you
can purchase any individual part from Zenith. Also, you will still receive great
technical support.
Sorry for rambling.
Dave Clay
601XL plans builder
Temple, TX
http://www.daves601xl.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106278#106278
---------------------------------
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
Im building from plans and so far, based on what Ive already spend,
my projected airframe cost will come about $5,000 give or take $1,000.
Now, if you start buying sheet metal and cutting it as need it to make the next part, you will probably spend a lot more and will end up with lots of unused scrap. The key to build from plans cheaply is to cut your material as shown in the layout provided in the builder resources section of www.ch601.org
I think plans vs. kit boils down to personal preference and
needs, my impression is that most plans builders are able to afford the kit
and most kit builders have the capacity and the skills to build from plans.
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami, Florida
does anyone have a comparison of the cost to build a 601xl from the plans vs
the cost of the kit? This cost would not include avionics or engine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106254#106254
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
Jerry, I am scratch building a CH-701. If you ordered
the "Scratch Building Basics" DVD from
Homebuilthelp.com you've bought your first important
tool. Mark and David do an excellent job of
explaining the basics.
Another good resource in the ch-701.com and ch-601.org
websites. They are geared toward the scratch builder
and have several hints and tips to aid people that
enjoy doing thing the hard way (or at least not the
easy way).
I built my own brake and have been using the Olfa
knife cutting method (explained on the DVD)instead of
needing a shear. My brake is only 5 ft long and there
are are a few pieces that are around 8 ft. For those,
a better idea would be to build a bolt together 8ft
break. The brake plans are available on the ch-701
website.
Welcome to scratch building
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
Working on controls
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not archive
--- Jerry Hey <jerryhey@earthlink.net> wrote:
> <jerryhey@earthlink.net>
>
> David, I want to scratch build a 701 so I am very
> interested in your
> experience. Did you buy a shear, brake, etc.
> Can you give me a
> short list of essential tooling, hand, air and so
> on. I have
> ordered one of the videos from homebuilthelp.com. I
> am hoping it
> arrives today. Thanks, Jerry
>
>
>
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: place for Headsets |
Where do the plug in? I'm putting my connectors behind the seat so they will be
stored on the baggage shelf or maybe on a little hook attached to the tube.
alex_001 wrote:
> anybody got a good idea where to leave the headset when on the ground / or when
co pilot is not used?
> I always get tangeled with my ones (wires mic boom etc)
> thanks for any help
>
> alex
> 601xl rtf from czaw
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106373#106373
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: place for Headsets |
HI
I SEEN ONE STORE IN BOX BEHIND THE COPILOT BY CUTTING OUT A RECTANGLE AND
MAKE A DROP IN BOX WITH HINGE LID.
COMPLETELY HIDDEN AND OUT OF THE WAY
HOPE THIS HELPS BEN
**************************************
See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
Thanks Doug, I'm blushing.
Mark Townsend
Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
president@can-zacaviation.com
www.can-zacaviation.com
-----Original Message-----
Jerry, I am scratch building a CH-701. If you ordered
the "Scratch Building Basics" DVD from
Homebuilthelp.com you've bought your first important
tool. Mark and David do an excellent job of
explaining the basics.
Another good resource in the ch-701.com and ch-601.org
websites. They are geared toward the scratch builder
and have several hints and tips to aid people that
enjoy doing thing the hard way (or at least not the
easy way).
I built my own brake and have been using the Olfa
knife cutting method (explained on the DVD)instead of
needing a shear. My brake is only 5 ft long and there
are are a few pieces that are around 8 ft. For those,
a better idea would be to build a bolt together 8ft
break. The brake plans are available on the ch-701
website.
Welcome to scratch building
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
Working on controls
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not archive
--
10:44 PM
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request |
Russ-
I feel for you, bro, from experience!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell J." <entecrj@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601HDS: O/BWing - Aileron photo request
>> Just to complete the picture, here's a shot of my goof. Hopefully,
>> others
>> will learn from it. Read the plans 100 times then look for a photo! As
>> a
>> reference, the O/B end is already cut and fits perfectly.
>>
>> Thanks everyone for your help and responses. If you have a photo that
>> matches this shot, but the "right" way I would appreciate a copy.
>>
>> Mitch
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Mitch:
> Is the attached pictures what you were looking for?
>
> Russell Johnson / 601-HDS
>
> do not archive
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
Bill-
Very well said. Once you get to a certain point, money is no object
(Sort of). It's you against the project!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: William Dominguez
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: cost to build 601-xl
I'm building from plans and so far, based on what I've already spend,
my projected airframe cost will come about $5,000 give or take $1,000.
Now, if you start buying sheet metal and cutting it as need it to make
the next part, you will probably spend a lot more and will end up with
lots of unused scrap. The key to build from plans cheaply is to cut your
material as shown in the layout provided in the builder resources
section of www.ch601.org
I think plans vs. kit boils down to personal preference and needs, my
impression is that most plans builders are able to afford the kit and
most kit builders have the capacity and the skills to build from plans.
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
--> http://forums.matronics.com
===========
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair firewall |
Jay and everyone-
I'm not interested in exact hole locations at this point. My
firewall is laying on the bench. My crossmembers, etc. are primed and
ready to install. What I want to know is, where do I locate my
crossmembers so I can be sure of having correct edge distance, etc.,
when drilling the Corvair engine mount bolt holes? Am I OK with going
with the Zenith layout, which is designed with a Rotax in mind or do I
have to do something different?
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaybannist@cs.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Corvair firewall
Bill,
I discovered that the dimensions given in the drawings for the
location of the attach bolts is not very accurate. It is best to locate
them with the attach brackets that are behind the firewall and attached
to longerons. It would be best to drill pilot holes in the center of
the face of the brackets, locate the brackets, then drill the holes in
the firewall.
Jay in Dallas
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
Let me expand on the comment about time vs. money.
When you buy a kit, you are paying for three things that you don't
pay money for when you scratch build. First there is the "Retail"
cost of materials instead of the wholesale costs paid by a large
scale manufacturer like Zenith. Second is the labor costs for
cutting and forming parts as well as purchasing the required
materials. To some degree this also applies to selecting vendors and
choosing alternative materials. Third is the profit made by Zenith.
On the plus side, kit builders get preformed parts - particularly
when the forming takes special skills (like welding) or special tools
(like a 12 foot bending brake). You also get a certain amount of
quality control from the kit manufacturer. Zenith has always
provided high quality parts in the kits I have received with proper
dimensions and materials.
Perhaps the biggest question is how much your time is worth. There
is real value in the savings of work to form the parts and accumulate
the materials. There is also real value in building your plane in a
fraction of the time needed to scratch build the same plane.
I don't think there is a universal "Right" answer to the kit vs.
scratch build question. Each of us must evaluate how much time,
money, and delay we can deal with in our project. For a retired
millionaire, the kit is an easy choice. For a younger person working
full time for a big salary and expectation of living another 40 years
the answer could be different. Likewise, someone interested in
having a plane for absolute minimum cash outlay who doesn't care
about the build schedule or labor value would reach another
decision. It all works so long as we use reason instead of raw
emotion in our choices.
Paul
XL fuselage (from standard kit)
>It is much less expensive to build from plans. For example, ZAC
>charges $2145 for the center spar and both main spars. I have
>probably less than $300 invested in the same parts. Another example
>is the wing rear channels. ZAC charges $140 each (you'll need 2).
>Making them myself took maybe 1/3 of a sheet of aluminum to form
>both pieces for a total cost of about $30.
>
>It all comes down to time vs money.
--
Message 26
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| Subject: | I'll rephrase the question |
Corvair people-
Can I lay out and attach the braces per plans to the firewall and
install the Corvair mount with no hassle, or will I have to move some of
the braces down the line? To drill or not to drill...
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Determining Center of Firewall? |
Dred,
That's the way I would do it also. KISS
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106420#106420
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Determining Center of Firewall? |
Yup. In hindsight, I should have advised that if the firewall bottom
flange is not perfectly even, you can square to its average by setting
both the firewall and the square on a nice flat surface and you'll be
very close. Trying to set the square directly to an undulating bottom
flange could be frustrating.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lendon
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Determining Center of Firewall?
Dred,
That's the way I would do it also. KISS
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: cost to build 601-xl |
I just ran through the math and it looks like I have $5628 invested so far. I
purchased most of the sheet metal at one time when prices were lower. About $1800
dollars were just the initial purchase of Aluminum.
Here is were the project is at now. Rudder, Stabizer, Elevator, Ailerons, Flaps,
and wing spars are complete. Left wing, both 15 gal fuel tanks in process.
Have two Corvair Blocks, Two Crank Shafts, One crank is flight ready, Heads are
out to Falcon for their magic. Have the rest of the engine parts in a box
and am about to get the cylinders, rods, pistons, camshaft in process. The engines
cores didn't cost me anything, just asked around and they just fell in place
from helpful people who wanted a piece of the dream.
Started about 19 months ago. If I just dropped the cash and bought everything
at once, not the quick build, I would probably have spent $19880 for the airframe,
$18250 for the engine & ??? for avionics and be flying it already with a
Jabiru 3300 engine. Easily 50k to 70K could be spent on the XL.
I am having the time of my life building the way I am. It is taking me back to
my roots in the metal trades which I have been away from for 15 years.
Thanks for asking, and I hope this helps you decide. Once you start, it's hard
to stop.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106434#106434
Message 30
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| Subject: | RE: Corvair firewall |
Bill,
If what you mean by braces are the mounting bolts
tack welded to the 4130 mounts that are bolted to the
upper and lower longerons, drill away. I attached
WW's engine mount directly to my firewall bolts with
no placement issues. Make sure that you do not have
the Rotax engine mount firewall bolts. These bolts
are too short. You will have to grind the tacks off,
remove them, and tack longer bolts in their place. I
can't remember the size, but maybe somebody else will
chime in...
I hope I read the question correctly...
VR/
Brandon
601HDS / TD / Corvair
80 hours
http://mcgirt.net/~ars2006/ars2006/Desktop.html
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
Message 31
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| Subject: | SPAL linear actuator and controller |
Dino and all, the controller for my Spal linear
actuator arrived yesterday. As we discussed last
week, I tried disconnecting the position feedback
wiring to see what the actuator did. When the
feedback wiring is disconnected the actuator does not
move until told to do so. Once you press a preset
button the actuator moves in an unpredictable fashion.
Basically, it tries to find the location that you
requested but usually under or overshoots slightly. To
stop this movement all that is required is to press
the two buttons (either 1&2 or 2&3) to move the
actuator manually. The actuator then functions fine
in manual mode as it would with a basic DPDT switch.
Is this adequately stable for use? I haven't decided
yet. I think I will play with it in this failure mode
some more before the final decision is made.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
------------------------------------------------------
Again, good points Dino. I'll have to play with the
controller once it arrives and make sure I'm not going
to induce a safety issue.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario , Canada
do no archive
--- Dino Bortolin <dbortol(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Quote:
You could do that, and if you catch a runaway in
time, you can stop if from
going any further. But you wouldn't be able to bring
it back, unless you put
in another switch to override the controller. At
which point, I think it has
turned the elegantly simple into the overly complex.
But, that's the beauty
of homebuilts - everyone is free to make it any way
that suits them. I still
like a DPDT toggle switch...
Dino Bortolin
On 4/3/07, MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com>
wrote:
>
>
<dougsnash(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Another solution to the position problem would be
to
> install a switch in the power output to the motor
that
> would be used as a system enable. That way if the
> controller did get scrambled, it would be unable
to
> output to the motor. Simply flip the switch on as
> part of your downwind check.
>
> Very good point Dino
>
> Doug MacDonald
>
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Message 32
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Hi Listers, final count is 250 name tags!
The Sun-N-Fun Webmaster BBQ on Thursday April 19th 5pm ' 8pm is
gaining
unprecedented momentum, we are now at over 200 people pre-registered !
This is just incredible ! I have finalized the name tags but hope that
anyone who was sitting on the fence is able to go to HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch601.org/"www.ch601.org or HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com/"www.ch701.com and fill in the online form.
Remember folks this is your ticket for the food! This year we are going
to setup a little differently, we are located in the campground at the
same location as last year but this time we will have a table at the
front of the event where all the name tags will be located.
Your ticket Table will be hosted by Ramelle Bintz . Ramelle will be
there to help you get your nametag, also new for this year we have
donations to raffle off. The grand raffle is a Cummings Spinner, custom
made for your plane and prop, kindly donated by Allan at Cummings
Spinners in Australia.
Next, I would really like to note that once again we have sponsors that
have really stepped up. Though I ask for donations to help out with the
food at the event and I put every cent back into the BBQ or to the next
BBQ. IT would not be possible without the help of our sponsors! I wish
to THANK the great generosity of
USA William Wynne FlyCorvair.com HYPERLINK
"http://www.flightcrafters.citymaker.com/page/page/1694089.htm"Flight
Crafters
Jabiru USA, William Wynne, Quality Sport Planes, Flight Crafters,
Homebuilthelp.com are all businesses that contribute to this event this
year. With that we are able to offer the kind of event that goes far
beyond the simple burger on a bun! This year like last year we will have
burgers, dogs, corn and wings. I will also be getting more pop, salads
and dessert this year, we ran a little short last year.
So All in ALL we are on target for the largest event yet! And the
largest Zenith Owners and Builders gathering ever! IF your not
registered do you really want to miss out on something this big? Come on
Sun-N-Fun is a great place to be!!! Remember this is your best chance to
MEET CHRIS HEINTZ this year! See you all soon.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
HYPERLINK "http://www.ch601.org"www.ch601.org / HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com"www.ch701.com/ HYPERLINK
"http://www.Osprey2.com"www.Osprey2.com
--
10:44 PM
Message 33
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| Subject: | RE: Corvair firewall |
Although my plans don't show it the engine mount fittings (6B6-4 and 5) come
from the factory in two forms: one with short bolts welded to the brackets
for the Rotax, Jabiru, Continental and conical Lycoming engine mounts and
one with long bolts for the Lycoming dynafocal mount. The short style works
with motor mounts that have flat plates at the firewall while the long style
works with mounts (like William Wynne's Corvair mount) with spools at the
firewall. I have factory-made parts in both styles.
I think that the factory has taken to delivering the brackets without the
bolts welded on. This allows you to line-drill all the parts after the
fuselage is put together. Nick sent me this back in Feb 2006:
"In the latest edition, we no longer weld the bolt to the engine mount
fitting. For the lower engine mount fittings, installing the bolt after the
fitting is installed to the fuselage allows for better alignment. For a 38mm
long bushing, allow approximately 3mm to go through the fitting, the doubler
and firewall = 41mm A better bolt to use is an AN6-22A (grip length
1-11/16")"
-- Craig
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