Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Re: Adding Duct Tape to the Toolbox (601HDS Ribs to Spar) (Hodges, Mitch)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: Gasse Cappe 701 style (Joe and Joan Kimbell)
3. 07:08 AM - Re: 6.4mm Reamer? (Stephen R. Look)
4. 07:35 AM - 701 gross weight (Ken and Cathy Buchmann)
5. 08:24 AM - Re: 6.4mm Reamer? (Dino Bortolin)
6. 08:54 AM - Re: Canopy ideas (japhillipsga@aol.com)
7. 09:28 AM - Re: 6.4mm Reamer? (Clyde Barcus)
8. 10:43 AM - corvair mechanical fuel pump (601corvair)
9. 11:41 AM - Re: corvair mechanical fuel pump (haven)
10. 12:32 PM - Re: corvair mechanical fuel pump (Gig Giacona)
11. 01:22 PM - Re: 701 gross weight (Chris Lewis)
12. 02:05 PM - Re: Canopy ideas ()
13. 02:06 PM - Re: Work table (Ron Lendon)
14. 02:26 PM - Long range tank fix (john butterfield)
15. 02:52 PM - Higher gross on 701 (Zed Smith)
16. 03:02 PM - Help. Need ACS fuel caps (Frank Probst)
17. 03:19 PM - Re: Help. Need ACS fuel caps ()
18. 03:42 PM - Re: Rudder Rear Skin Question (rbjjr)
19. 04:43 PM - Hand Prop Jabiru 2200 (George Race)
20. 05:13 PM - Re: Help. Need ACS fuel caps (ALAN BEYER)
21. 06:37 PM - Re: Adding Duct Tape to the Toolbox (601HDS Ribs to Spar) (Hodges, Mitch)
22. 07:28 PM - Visit to Holland (Matt Stecher)
23. 07:42 PM - Re: Hand Prop Jabiru 2200 (Juan Vega)
24. 08:20 PM - spray foam insulation to secure l.e. fuel tanks (Frank Probst)
25. 08:43 PM - Re: Visit to Holland (hansriet)
26. 10:54 PM - Re: Visit to Holland (Capetonian)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Duct Tape to the Toolbox (601HDS Ribs to Spar) |
"Any chance that you have a couple of photos to demonstrate the
specifics of what you did?"
Yep. I'll try to post them to the group later after I have an
opportunity to down-rev them.
Mitch
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Gasse Cappe 701 style |
Tommy, I have vented caps on my czech 701. They work fine unless you put
your cap on backward. THis will pull all the fuel from the other tank and
than the engine quits. Hope you are high enough to go to full tank and start
engine as the Rotax stops turning as soon as engine quits.
Joe from Florida
>From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Gasse Cappe 701 style
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 12:28:32 -0400
>
>
>I have similar caps on my 601XL. I have one of the earlier kits before
>they went to the flush mounted caps with remote venting. The vented caps
>as they came with the kit would siphon small amounts of fuel out onto the
>wing during flight when the tanks were full. I had someone weld the tubing
>to my caps to put a stop to that.
>
>I don't know if they changed the way the tanks are vented on the newer 701
>kits. If your plane has vent lines installed in the wings for the tanks
>leading to external vents like a Cessna, you don't need vented caps. If
>the only venting for your tanks are through vented caps, you can weld the
>tubes on the caps. I've seen these tubes used on the gas caps on kit foxes
>and for the header tank on the Sonex, so there may be other sources for
>them.
>
>
>>
>>I noticed the Zenith 701 Demo has vented gas caps with little periscope
>>looking vent tubes on top. I guess the reason for this is to provide
>>positive pressure inside the tank during flight. Is anyone else using
>>these type caps, and if so where did you get them or did you make them?
>>
>>The ones provided with my tanks have just a smooth dome-shaped cap.
>>Thanks for all responses.
>>
>
>
>--
>Bryan Martin
>N61BM, CH 601 XL,
>RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
>do not archive.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 6.4mm Reamer? |
Thanks for all the replies. A friend that works in a machine shop
said they have a .252 reamer I can use. I just couldn't see spending
$30 for those two little holes!
I found out that 6.4mm {~.252} is a standard metric drill size and
those cost about $2.
Steve
At 11:55 PM 4/16/2007, you wrote:
>A letter "F" drill is 0.254 diameter and works just fine.
>
Steve Look
Monticello, IL
601XL, Corvair
"Dogs have owners, Cats have staff"
Message 4
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| Subject: | 701 gross weight |
I would like to increase the gross weight of my 701 from 1100# to 1320#.
Has any one explored this. I would like to have information.
Regards,
Ken
Missouri
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 6.4mm Reamer? |
Steve,
Keep it mind, a reamer makes a very accurately sized, _round_ hole.
The hole from a drill bit is only approximately round. They don't
accomplish exactly the same result. I'm not sure about the application
in this case, but if the roundness is important, definitely use a
reamer.
Dino
On 4/17/07, Stephen R. Look <slook@mchsi.com> wrote:
> Thanks for all the replies. A friend that works in a machine shop
> said they have a .252 reamer I can use. I just couldn't see spending
> $30 for those two little holes!
> I found out that 6.4mm {~.252} is a standard metric drill size and
> those cost about $2.
>
> Steve
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy ideas |
Ed, I found I could trip the latch from the ends with an ice pick from the outside.
After you get it all adjusted and working you'll find the system reliable.
Something I recommend you consider is to cut access holes on the inside side
panels that corresponds with the cable adjustment nuts. I made three holes about
2 x 2 and made little thin cover plates with small pan head screws to attach.
I 've had them off a couple times since completion. Going to Sun n Fun ? I'll
get there in time for the Thursday bar b que. Hope to meet you there, Best
regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: dredmoody@cox.net
Sent: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy ideas
Hi Guys,
I'm about 80% done with the canopy on my 601XL and I have a thought to share
with the list. I recall lots of references to cutting a little oval slot in the
inside flashing of the canopy frame to allow us to release the latch with a
small screwdriver if the cable release linkage fails. I don't however recall
anyone saying anything about access to release the latch form outside the plane
in such a case.
Of course, one could unscrew all the self tapping screws and remove the
bubble from the canopy frame but I would like something simpler if the need
arises. So, I've decided to drill a 1/4" hole through the steel plate between
the rear bow tube socket and the latch mechanism and tap it for 5/16" x 18
threads to accept an allen socket set screw (to serve as a plug in the hole).
The hole will be in line with the latch release lever to allow me to reach
through with a small screwdriver to release the latch from outside the airplane.
The set screw will seal the hole (with removable Loctite) until that access is
needed, if ever. Since the set screw is only about 1/4" long, it will not
protrude significantly from the side of the airplane, nor will it interfere with
the movement of the latch release lever. The outside flashing will be
back-drilled at 5/16" to align over the hole. The entire project adds no
significant weight and costs about 70 cents. It could save a lot of grief !
someday if the cable linkage fails (like away from home base, for instance).
I am also planning to make riveted (or screw retained) access hatches over
the cable end adjustment fittings in the inside flashing on both sides for
future cable slack adjustment. Why have the adjustment devices if we have no
access to them, right?
While I'm fairly certain that I'm not the first builder to do these little
innovations, I don't remember anyone mentioning it for the list to consider.
Anybody got other wonderful suggestions to consider before I rivet the canopy
frame together in a week or so?
Dred
PS: After I woke up at 3AM a few nights in a row, I finally got the mental
picture of what I needed to do to properly adjust the side frames, the rear bow
tube sockets and the rear bow itself. After that I didn't feel like cussing
every time I looked at the canopy frame. It was sort of like a twelve step
program for amature aircraft builders. I feel much better now, thanks.
________________________________________________________________________
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 6.4mm Reamer? |
Dino is right, the purpose of a reamer is roundness of the hole and a very
smooth finish. I bought the correct reamer for about $15.00 through MSC.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Wings, Tail & Engine Complete
Working on Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dino Bortolin" <dbortol@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 6.4mm Reamer?
>
> Steve,
>
> Keep it mind, a reamer makes a very accurately sized, _round_ hole.
> The hole from a drill bit is only approximately round. They don't
> accomplish exactly the same result. I'm not sure about the application
> in this case, but if the roundness is important, definitely use a
> reamer.
>
> Dino
>
> On 4/17/07, Stephen R. Look <slook@mchsi.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for all the replies. A friend that works in a machine shop
>> said they have a .252 reamer I can use. I just couldn't see spending
>> $30 for those two little holes!
>> I found out that 6.4mm {~.252} is a standard metric drill size and
>> those cost about $2.
>>
>> Steve
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | corvair mechanical fuel pump |
Ok guys Ive read some more of the history on this. Both on the corvair and the
zenith lists and I have come to the understanding that the reason for not utilizing
the corvair mechanical fuel pump is because of pump failure and failure
mode. My understanding is that when it fails it can dump fuel into the case
causing problems. I have had a pump failure on my old 225 car engine. In
that case the diaphragm started to leak. The mechanical part of the pump was
fine. I am assuming the corvair fails the same way. Now, for the question. Is
it possible to rebuild the mechanical pump with a more modern material and avoid
the failure? By the way, I am assuming that when a mechanical pump fails
that a back up electrical pump can still push fuel through it. Thanks phill.
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: corvair mechanical fuel pump |
I would think that a failed fuel pump could pump fuel into the crankcase and also
into the engine compartment( huge risk of fire). Also if you put an elec pump
in line before the mech. pump, you would just push fuel out of the hole that
caused it to leak in the first place.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107585#107585
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: corvair mechanical fuel pump |
There is also the issue that there isn't a magneto system on the Corvair so if
your power system fails the engine is going to stop working anyway.
[quote="airvair601(at)Yahoo.com"]Ok guys Ive read some more of the history on this.
Both on the corvair and the zenith lists and I have come to the understanding
that the reason for not utilizing the corvair mechanical fuel pump is
because of pump failure and failure mode. My understanding is that when it fails
it can dump fuel into the case causing problems. I have had a pump failure
on my old 225 car engine. In that case the diaphragm started to leak. The
mechanical part of the pump was fine. I am assuming the corvair fails the same
way. Now, for the question. Is it possible to rebuild the mechanical pump
with a more modern material and avoid the failure? By the way, I am assuming
that when a mechanical pump fails that a back up electrical pump can still push
fuel through it. Thanks phill.
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos. (http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;_ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM-)
> [b]
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107591#107591
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 701 gross weight |
It's possible with a major redraw of the entire design, but it is not a simple
task. I also think Zenith (or Chris H. anyway) is out of the major modification
"review" business so you'd be on your own for your revisions. Not something
I'd recommend...
Chris in Seattle
--------
701 Scratch Builder
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107599#107599
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy ideas |
Great think alike Bill. I just cut 1.5" diameter holes in the inside flashings
and made square covers for them the covers will be secured by four small pan head
sheet metal screws. I though, "Why have cable adjustments without access to
use them?"
What I did for emergency opening from the outside is I drilled and thread tapped
a 5/16" hole on each side through which I can poke the latch open. Normally,
a allen socket set screw will occupy that hole to seal out bugs and rain.
Regretably, I will not be at Sun N Fun this year. Got too many "really important"
things to get done here. You know how that goes. I'm working fairly steadily
on the plane and I'm building a new hangar for the ultralight and the Zodiac.
Ed
---- japhillipsga@aol.com wrote:
> Ed, I found I could trip the latch from the ends with an ice pick from the outside.
After you get it all adjusted and working you'll find the system reliable.
Something I recommend you consider is to cut access holes on the inside side
panels that corresponds with the cable adjustment nuts. I made three holes
about 2 x 2 and made little thin cover plates with small pan head screws to attach.
I 've had them off a couple times since completion. Going to Sun n Fun ?
I'll get there in time for the Thursday bar b que. Hope to meet you there, Best
regards, Bill of Georgia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dredmoody@cox.net
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 4:37 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy ideas
>
>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm about 80% done with the canopy on my 601XL and I have a thought to share
> with the list. I recall lots of references to cutting a little oval slot in the
> inside flashing of the canopy frame to allow us to release the latch with a
> small screwdriver if the cable release linkage fails. I don't however recall
> anyone saying anything about access to release the latch form outside the plane
> in such a case.
>
> Of course, one could unscrew all the self tapping screws and remove the
> bubble from the canopy frame but I would like something simpler if the need
> arises. So, I've decided to drill a 1/4" hole through the steel plate between
> the rear bow tube socket and the latch mechanism and tap it for 5/16" x 18
> threads to accept an allen socket set screw (to serve as a plug in the hole).
> The hole will be in line with the latch release lever to allow me to reach
> through with a small screwdriver to release the latch from outside the airplane.
> The set screw will seal the hole (with removable Loctite) until that access is
> needed, if ever. Since the set screw is only about 1/4" long, it will not
> protrude significantly from the side of the airplane, nor will it interfere with
> the movement of the latch release lever. The outside flashing will be
> back-drilled at 5/16" to align over the hole. The entire project adds no
> significant weight and costs about 70 cents. It could save a lot of grief !
> someday if the cable linkage fails (like away from home base, for instance).
>
> I am also planning to make riveted (or screw retained) access hatches over
> the cable end adjustment fittings in the inside flashing on both sides for
> future cable slack adjustment. Why have the adjustment devices if we have no
> access to them, right?
>
> While I'm fairly certain that I'm not the first builder to do these little
> innovations, I don't remember anyone mentioning it for the list to consider.
> Anybody got other wonderful suggestions to consider before I rivet the canopy
> frame together in a week or so?
>
> Dred
>
> PS: After I woke up at 3AM a few nights in a row, I finally got the mental
> picture of what I needed to do to properly adjust the side frames, the rear bow
> tube sockets and the rear bow itself. After that I didn't feel like cussing
> every time I looked at the canopy frame. It was sort of like a twelve step
> program for amature aircraft builders. I feel much better now, thanks.
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
Message 13
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I made the box beams like you did Kevin only I was able to run them all over a
planner at work. You see me jumping on it and doing engines tear downs and it
is still flat, just has a lot of holes and grooves in it now.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107609#107609
Message 14
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| Subject: | Long range tank fix |
hi list
i just finished countersinking the neck of my fuel
tanks. they were welded to long and would not let the
gas cap screw in enough for a even fit with the nose
skins.
It was pretty simple after i learned how to do it on
the first wing. the directions say to turn the sink
slowly. that really means slowly. they sent an
electric motor to use and slow is very hard to get.
i just pulsed the motor on and off and never let it
get up to any speed. put a lot of pressure on the
drill motor and as you pulse and it begins to bind,
just let off.
the first counter sink took about two hours the second
(using the above procedure) took about 15 minutes.
Zenith was really on top of this and i am quite
pleased with the service. they even sent the
Scotch-Brit and the WD 40.
I still plan to have the edge of the gas cap assembly
fit on top of the wing skin. it will be up a little,
but will be very clean looking. i really don't like
the looks of the recessed caps, especially the way i
cut the holes
regards
john butterfield
601XL, Corvair
torrance, ca
__________________________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Higher gross on 701 |
do not archive
Chris Heintz addressed that issue some time ago.....he called it the 801.
Regards to all,
Zed
Message 16
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| Subject: | Help. Need ACS fuel caps |
I have a HD with the full size wing tanks. The tanks have a 2 5/8" opening
for the fuel cap.
They are designed to work with the ACS flush mount non vented fuel cap. I
just noticed Zac sent me the header tank fuel cap style instead of the ACS
ones. Now here is my problem. Acs changed the design of the fuel cap. The
new one will not work. I need the old style with a rubber puck gasket. I
can't find the old style anywhere. If any one has some I will pay top
dollar for them.
My tanks are already installed with the holes cut for the fuel caps in the
leading edge wing skin.
If I can not find any ACS caps I will have to cut out the 2 5/8 collar, weld
in a patch and install a different cap system, plus most other caps are
smaller so the hole in the leading edge skin will be oversize.
It sure would make things simple if I could get my hands on some of those
caps.
Maybe I should go to Sun N Fun and help myself to some by the 601 flight
line. Just Kidding
Frank Probst
_________________________________________________________________
Win a webcam! Nominate your friends Windows Live Space in the Windows Live
Spaces Sweetest Space Contest and you both could win!
http://www.microsoft.com/canada/home/contests/sweetestspace/default.aspx
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Help. Need ACS fuel caps |
There's always cork stoppers from the hobby and craft stores Frank. Stuffing a
shop rag in the opening is cheaper yet. Just trying to help,
Dred
---- Frank Probst <fprobst@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
Acs changed the design of the fuel cap. The
> new one will not work. I need the old style with a rubber puck gasket. I
> can't find the old style anywhere. If any one has some I will pay top
> dollar for them.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Rear Skin Question |
Thanks for the feedback.
Sticking to the plans is a point well taken. I only plan to deviate if I get factory
permission and for necessary items. For example I asked about adding a
beacon to the top of the rudder and for some small holes in which to spray Corrosion
X after construction.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107635#107635
Message 19
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| Subject: | Hand Prop Jabiru 2200 |
I recall reading somewhere that it is not possible to hand prop and start a
Jabiru 2200 due to requiring about 300 RPM to develop enough spark to start
the engine.
If indeed this is the case, has anyone developed an auxiliary ignition
system that would allow one to hand prop/start the engine?
Would hate to be caught out in the boonies, on the ground, with a dead
battery.
George
Working on the left wing.
CH-701 N73EX (reserved)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Help. Need ACS fuel caps |
Hi Frank,=0A =0A I have an HDS with LET's. I replaced the older style caps
(Top hat style gasket) with the new caps with "O" rings about a year ago
and still have the old caps. The reason I replaced them is because the top
hat gaskets swell after a while and are hard to remove/replace. If I reme
mber right the new ones did not fit the holes very well so I took them apar
t and turned down the O D's until they fit. I also turned the top edges to
blend them to the top skin better. I don't know what type of set-up you ha
ve or why the caps do not work. I will attach a picture of my new caps. I
f I can help you can contact me off line.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Mess
age ----=0AFrom: Frank Probst <fprobst@HOTMAIL.COM>=0ATo: Zenith-List@matro
nics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 4:59:57 PM=0ASubject: Zenith-List:
Probst" <fprobst@hotmail.com>=0A=0AI have a HD with the full size wing tan
ks. The tanks have a 2 5/8" opening =0Afor the fuel cap.=0AThey are design
ed to work with the ACS flush mount non vented fuel cap. I =0Ajust noticed
Zac sent me the header tank fuel cap style instead of the ACS =0Aones. No
w here is my problem. Acs changed the design of the fuel cap. The =0Anew
one will not work. I need the old style with a rubber puck gasket. I =0Ac
an't find the old style anywhere. If any one has some I will pay top =0Ado
llar for them.=0AMy tanks are already installed with the holes cut for the
fuel caps in the =0Aleading edge wing skin.=0AIf I can not find any ACS cap
s I will have to cut out the 2 5/8 collar, weld =0Ain a patch and install a
different cap system, plus most other caps are =0Asmaller so the hole in t
he leading edge skin will be oversize.=0A=0AIt sure would make things simpl
e if I could get my hands on some of those =0Acaps.=0A=0AMaybe I should go
to Sun N Fun and help myself to some by the 601 flight =0Aline. Just Kiddi
ng=0A=0AFrank Probst=0A=0A_________________________________________________
________________=0AWin a webcam! Nominate your friend=A2s Windows Live Spac
e in the Windows Live =0ASpaces Sweetest Space Contest and you both could w
in! =0Ahttp://www.microsoft.com/canada/home/contests/sweetestspace/default.
===
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Duct Tape to the Toolbox (601HDS Ribs to Spar) |
As requested, here are photos and an explanation of how I used a roll of
duct tape to drill the nose and rear ribs for the HDS:
1. Mark the rivet lines on the spar using a Sharpie, being sure to go over
the extrusion on both top and bottom.
2. Mark the center line of the nose and rear ribs on the outer flanges.
3. On the inside portion of the flange, using the marks in Step two as a
reference, make a tick mark on the rear flange where the rib will join the
spar. This will be used to line up the rib with the marks made in Step 1.
4. Tear off a piece of duct tape about the same length as the rear flange
of the rib. Place this within reach of each rib station. (I simply stuck
it by a corner to the edge of the workbench)
5. Using a speed-square against the spar, line the rib up with the rivet
line on the spar, using the marks made in 1 and 3 above.
6. With your finger or a small screwdriver, make sure the tape has stuck
and is tight along the edges where the rib meets the spar.
7. Take a small board (I used a scrap piece of wood) hold this against the
rib flange and drill out the pilot holes.
It takes longer to describe that to do it.
As explained in the manual, do this first for the nose ribs (using a #40),
through the web. Then remove the nose ribs, attach the rear ribs, and
repeat using a #20.
Photos attached. I thought I had used yellow duct tape, but it appears it
was your standard gray.
RR-Duct1 shows the speed square and alignment of the rear rib with tape
applied.
RR-Duct2 shows a close-up after the holes are drilled. Note the small tick
marks on the flange that aligns with the spar line. It looks off in the
photo, but that is because of the angle.
NR-Duct1 shows a Nose rib duct-taped and ready to go.
Mitch
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mitch Hodges" <n601mh@HODGES.INFO>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Adding Duct Tape to the Toolbox (601HDS Ribs to Spar)
Isn't always amazing how the second of two subsystems never takes as long as
the first? With experience come knowledge, and a little luck.
One thing I have to share, since I haven't seen this "method" in the
archives, is the method I used to attach and hold the nose and rear ribs
yesterday while I drilled the pilot holes through the spar.
On the right wing, I used the system outlined in the builder sequence manual
with the clamps, etc. It worked but took me a long full day to do by
myself.
As I was looking at the next wing yesterday, it occurred to me, why not just
tape them on! I grabbed my handy-dandy roll of bright yellow duct tape,
lined each rib up along their rivet lines, checked with a square and taped
them down by running a piece of tape along the rib flange to the spar.
I taped all the nose ribs first, drilled the holes, removed them, taped the
rear ribs in place, drilled them, and finished the whole process in well
less than an hour! Duct tape held like a champ, and came right off with no
residue (although I cleaned it just to be sure).
You do have to watch and make sure they don't slip off their lines, but none
of mine moved as long as I used a backup block held behind while drilling
and I made sure the tape was securely attached.
I think I've found a new builder's friend!
Mitch Hodges
--------
N601MH (Zenith 601HDS)
Wings Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107391#107391
Message 22
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| Subject: | Visit to Holland |
I will be visiting Amsterdam and other locals from April 25-29 and was
curious about the Zenith folks that may be in that area.
I will be occupied by business until the 27th and have two days to myself
before my return flight to Houston on the 29th.
If anyone would like to get together and share a meal or even let me drool
over their project or plane that would be great. I am curious what the
flying culture is like in Europe and am hoping to poke around a bit.
Please reach me by email at mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net if you are willing to get
together.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Hand Prop Jabiru 2200 |
according to everything I read on the jabiru regarding the hand propping, you don't.
you need a starter.
-----Original Message-----
>From: George Race <mykitairplane@mrrace.com>
>Sent: Apr 17, 2007 7:43 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Hand Prop Jabiru 2200
>
>I recall reading somewhere that it is not possible to hand prop and start a
>Jabiru 2200 due to requiring about 300 RPM to develop enough spark to start
>the engine.
>
>If indeed this is the case, has anyone developed an auxiliary ignition
>system that would allow one to hand prop/start the engine?
>
>Would hate to be caught out in the boonies, on the ground, with a dead
>battery.
>
>George
>Working on the left wing.
>CH-701 N73EX (reserved)
Message 24
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| Subject: | spray foam insulation to secure l.e. fuel tanks |
Has any one ever tried this? It would seem like a good way to make sure the
tanks don't move and rub. There is the stuff for doors and windows. It
does not expand. Put some in between the tank and ribs and the spar. The
only concern would be some kind of a corrosive effect on the aluminum.
Frank Probst
_________________________________________________________________
Dont waste time standing in linetry shopping online. Visit Sympatico / MSN
Shopping today! http://shopping.sympatico.msn.ca
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Holland |
You should try to get in touch with Jrgen Verroen, an old friend of mine.
His is owner/ CEO of Skycastle, based at Lelystad Airport and he is the importer of Zenith (http://www.zenair.nl/) in the netherlandfs. Build of few himself and an extremely nice guy. tell him I send you.
Hans van Riet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107686#107686
Message 26
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| Subject: | Visit to Holland |
I live in Almere. that's about 10 minutes drive from Lelystad. Jorgen
Verroen is at EHLE with a hanger full of Zeniths, including two lovely Czech
built 601's. If you need a ride to the airport just give me a call when you
are in Amsterdam.
Mark
Future-Plans-Builder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Stecher
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 4:26 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Visit to Holland
--> <mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net>
I will be visiting Amsterdam and other locals from April 25-29 and was
curious about the Zenith folks that may be in that area.
I will be occupied by business until the 27th and have two days to myself
before my return flight to Houston on the 29th.
If anyone would like to get together and share a meal or even let me drool
over their project or plane that would be great. I am curious what the
flying culture is like in Europe and am hoping to poke around a bit.
Please reach me by email at mrcc1234@sbcglobal.net if you are willing to get
together.
Kindest Regards,
Matt Stecher
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