Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - wing walk material (LarryMcFarland)
2. 08:07 AM - Re: wing walk material (Tim Juhl)
3. 12:54 PM - Fw: Landing gear (wade jones)
4. 01:18 PM - Day one (Jerry Hey)
5. 02:24 PM - Re: Day one (Jerry Hey)
6. 02:24 PM - Re: Day one (Carlos Sa)
7. 02:25 PM - Corvair Mount (Jaybannist@cs.com)
8. 02:39 PM - Re: Corvair Mount (Gig Giacona)
9. 02:47 PM - Re: Corvair Mount (Craig Payne)
10. 03:46 PM - Re: Propellor leading edge tape (Jeffrey J Paris)
11. 03:57 PM - Corvair Mount (Jaybannist@cs.com)
12. 04:34 PM - Re: Re: wing walk material (LarryMcFarland)
13. 04:37 PM - Re: Day one (Paul Mulwitz)
14. 07:02 PM - Corvair Engine (Jeyoung65@aol.com)
15. 08:00 PM - Welding 601XL Fuel Tanks (Ron Lendon)
16. 08:56 PM - Re: Distance of Left and Right wing to rear reference point (eddies)
Message 1
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| Subject: | wing walk material |
Hi guys,
I took Jeff Smalls advice and purchased some wing walk material from Ray
Allen
Company. The material deserves a second look by anyone wishing there were a
better wing walk material than what looks and feels like roofing shingles.
After cutting it to size and rounding off the corners, I placed it
exactly where it needed
to be. Daughter Sara picked up 6-inches of the forward end and
separated the peel-
off material, cut off the excess peel strip and folded corners each side
at the cut and I pushed
the material down while continuing to hold position for the lower half.
When the front
portion was stuck down, the rear portion was lifted and peel strip
corners were pulled to
separate the peel off material. I worked to spread the contact area back
to the
other end. Two rows of rivets were underneath this material and a pin
prick near each
rivet allowed the air to be removed. A 5/16 nylock nut was used to push
the material
down around each rivet. The whole operation for both wings was done in
about 30-minutes.
Thanks Jeff, this material is exactly what I was looking for and the
finish is non-skid
without the associated loose grit.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: wing walk material |
How about a nice close up picture?
Tim
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111581#111581
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fw: Landing gear |
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: Landing gear
Hello ,could you quote me a price of the 601XL complete landing gear. I
have already installed the brake cylinders and the nose gear leg
including the top & bottom bearings. I need a quote excluding the parts
already installed . Thanks Plans holder #6464
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
Message 4
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Hi guys, I promise I won't load this list up with every little move
but today I ordered my first sheet of Aluminum (4' x 8' x .025") and
built a hole flanging tool. The tool cost about $3.50. I have
nothing to try it on, but here it is.
I am scratch building but might buy a part or two if the going
gets too tough. I plan to cut 2' x 4' off the sheet I just ordered to
use for practice.
Question, How critical are the diameters of the lightening holes?
I can buy hole saws that are quite close in size but not exact.
Morse offers saws in 1/8" increments. Thanks,
Jerry Hey
STOL 701
Message 5
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Looking further at the Morse site, I found they had metric hole saws
in all the sizes needed. I ordered 65mm, 95mm and 114mm. Jerry
On May 8, 2007, at 4:15 PM, Jerry Hey wrote:
> Hi guys, I promise I won't load this list up with every little
> move but today I ordered my first sheet of Aluminum (4' x 8' x .
> 025") and built a hole flanging tool. The tool cost about $3.50.
> I have nothing to try it on, but here it is.
>
> I am scratch building but might buy a part or two if the going
> gets too tough. I plan to cut 2' x 4' off the sheet I just ordered
> to use for practice.
>
> Question, How critical are the diameters of the lightening
> holes? I can buy hole saws that are quite close in size but not
> exact. Morse offers saws in 1/8" increments. Thanks,
>
> Jerry Hey
> STOL 701
> <P1010001.jpg>
Message 6
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Welcome aboard, Jerry
About the lightening wholes, I would ask ZAC - I guess a small variation is
ok, but you need to check. They blessed a change I made on that
"department".
As for cutting the holes, wouldn't a single fly cutter be cheaper instead of
multiple hole saws?
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
On 08/05/07, Jerry Hey <jerryhey@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Hi guys, I promise I won't load this list up with every little move
> but today I ordered my first sheet of Aluminum (4' x 8' x .025") and
> built a hole flanging tool. The tool cost about $3.50. I have
> nothing to try it on, but here it is.
>
> I am scratch building but might buy a part or two if the going
> gets too tough. I plan to cut 2' x 4' off the sheet I just ordered to
> use for practice.
>
> Question, How critical are the diameters of the lightening holes?
> I can buy hole saws that are quite close in size but not exact.
> Morse offers saws in 1/8" increments. Thanks,
>
> Jerry Hey
> STOL 701
>
>
Message 7
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Corvair Guys:
I finally received a motor mount from WW today. I tried to fit it up to the mounting
bolts and found that the bolts won't go through the spool pieces. Are
they supposed to be driven; or are the tubes supposed to be reamed for a fit?
Jay in Dallas
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair Mount |
When I mounted mine all it took was a light to medium tap with a rubber mallet.
Will the bolts of the same size slide into the mount unmounted? Or is it a positioning
problem?
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111659#111659
Message 9
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Is it a question of alignment or actual diameter? In other words will a
loose bolt fit into the spools? I would *not* force the bolt in. I suspect
the problem is a combination of alignment and distortion of the spool during
welding. Unfortunately (as you probably know) William is on vacation until
the middle of the month.
I would do two things: if it won't remove too much metal ream them out so
that a free bolt will fit in. Then if there are alignment problems loosen
the bolts that hold the motor mount brackets to the longerons, bolt the
mount and then retighten the brackets. If you do this you may want to
replace the nylon-insert locknuts on the motor mount brackets.
-- Craig
Message 10
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| Subject: | Propellor leading edge tape |
Hello Listers,
I have used strips of metal aluminium tape with great success, I have doubled it
up on itself and it works great at a very resonable price. Easy to replace
too.
Jeff Paris
N196ZP Jab3300 CH601XL 136 hours of pure fune and enjoyment!
--- On Mon 05/07, george may < gfmjr_20@HOTMAIL.COM > wrote:
From: george may [mailto: gfmjr_20@HOTMAIL.COM]
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Propellor leading edge tape
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 11
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Corvair Guys,
Thanks for the help. I ran a 3/8" drill bit through each of the spool holes.
All except one now let the bolt slip all the way through. I think the holes were
just "dirty." One still gets tight about three-quarters of the way in. I
think that spool tube probably got distorted during welding. I also think that
I can get that one installed with just a light amount of force with a rubber
hammer.
Thanks again for the help
Jay in Dallas
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: wing walk material |
Hi Tim,
Just punch up these two links for pictures of the wing walks with the
Ray Allen
Company material. This is a no grit, textured surface that remains a good
non-skid material and would remain easy on the knees and elbows.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/wingwalk1.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/wingwalk2.gif
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Tim Juhl wrote:
> How about a nice close up picture?
>
> Tim
>
>
>
Message 13
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Hi Jerry,
I am a kit builder, but I have made many small parts for my plane. I
guess that qualifies me to make a few comments on your questions.
First, on the lightening holes - I am sure 1/8 inch variation is
OK. That is within the general distance tolerance for all parts on
the design which (if I remember correctly) is specified in the
builder's manual as 3 mm. This much variation on lightening holes
will be no problem if you bend the flanges with a tool like the one
in your picture or a simple stick with a slot cut in it. On the
other hand, the hole tolerance must be very tight if you use press
dies to make the flanges.
Rather than cutting off a 2x4 piece of aluminum for experimenting, I
would recommend trying to make some specific parts like perhaps
elevator ribs and cut the exact part needed for each attempt.
Good luck and welcome to the club.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 01:15 PM 5/8/2007, you wrote:
>Hi guys, I promise I won't load this list up with every little move
>but today I ordered my first sheet of Aluminum (4' x 8' x .025") and
>built a hole flanging tool. The tool cost about $3.50. I have
>nothing to try it on, but here it is.
>
> I am scratch building but might buy a part or two if the going
>gets too tough. I plan to cut 2' x 4' off the sheet I just ordered to
>use for practice.
>
>Question, How critical are the diameters of the lightening holes?
>I can buy hole saws that are quite close in size but not exact.
>Morse offers saws in 1/8" increments. Thanks,
>
>Jerry Hey
>STOL 701
>
>
Message 14
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I am new to the board but have been reading it for about two years. Building
by plans a 601HD
I am looking for a Corvair engine in the south-east. DO NOT ARCHIVE"
Jerry of GA
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Welding 601XL Fuel Tanks |
Group,
I am please to announce that I have successfully welded and tested for leaks my
right fuel tank. The 5mm .032 flange welding was actually very easy once I figured
what my problem was, the arc was so small I couldn't see the puddle. What
I did was get the strongest reading glasses I could find and found one of
the newer Miller Syncrowave welders with Pulse and Balance controls. It just
so happens my EAA Tech Consoler has the equipment.
Here are the details:
Bought some 4043 rod in 1/16 and 3/32 diameters. Set the welder up to Pulse at
2.3 and the Balance 5.0, the amperage goes up to 200 but I kept it dialed down
for a maxium of 180.
The .032 5mm flanges fuse with only about 27 to 28 amps so a small 1/16 dia 2%
thoriated tungsten was used to fuse the metals. First scuff the area to be welded
with a stainless wire brush, reserved only for this purpose. The Filler
neck flange goes on the inside, tack it first then weld sections making sure to
join your welds. If/when you contaminate the tungsten, STOP and clean/grind
the tungsten then using the stainless wire brush, scuff the area and start the
welding again. Scuff, Tack, Scuff, Weld is the process. The material oxidizes
quickly so that is most important.
Next assemble the ends and and tack weld every 3-4 inches, scuff, tack, scuff,
tack. Once you have the ends and the long flange tacked together, scuff, weld,
scuff weld, scuff, weld. I used very little 1/16 filler rod on the seams, it
was just to help get the weld started and touch ups. The 3.25 reading glasses
made all the difference, the weld puddle was visible. Just watch the puddle
and scuff, weld, scuff weld.
If/when you stop welding always scuff just before striking the next arc.
Just wanted to let you guys know it can be done and it ain't hard if you get the
glasses and the right welding equipment.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111743#111743
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Distance of Left and Right wing to rear reference point |
Hi Gerry
Thanks for the reply, I am going to have another go at setting up my wings this
weekend, I think that one of my issues might be that the flap control arm is
stopping the wing from swinging back far enough, so I will recheck this.
For anyone else that interested, I forgot to mention that this is on a 601XL
Regards,
Eddie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111750#111750
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