Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:30 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Edward Moody II)
2. 05:35 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Crvsecretary@aol.com)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Robin Bellach)
4. 07:02 AM - CH-701 visit (Ben Ramler)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Edward Moody II)
6. 08:00 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (lwinger)
7. 08:28 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Jeyoung65@aol.com)
8. 08:49 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Paul Mulwitz)
9. 09:02 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Edward Moody II)
10. 09:05 AM - Re: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Herb Heaton)
11. 09:32 AM - Riveting questions. (Ben Ramler)
12. 09:47 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Robin Bellach)
13. 09:58 AM - Re: Riveting questions. (Larry Winger)
14. 10:00 AM - Re: Riveting questions. (Edward Moody II)
15. 10:09 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (ZodieRocket)
16. 10:15 AM - Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) (Dave Thompson)
17. 10:24 AM - Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) (Trainnut01@aol.com)
18. 10:35 AM - Re: Riveting questions. (Ben Ramler)
19. 10:38 AM - Re: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Robin Bellach)
20. 11:03 AM - Cutting holes in plexiglass (robert stone)
21. 11:03 AM - dual stick option (Skip Perry)
22. 11:08 AM - lightening hole dies.. (Ron Culver)
23. 11:10 AM - Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) (Craig Payne)
24. 11:14 AM - Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) (Ron Culver)
25. 11:20 AM - Re: dual stick option (Craig Payne)
26. 11:32 AM - Re: Re: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (KEVIN LEROY RUPERT)
27. 11:58 AM - Re: lightening hole dies.. (dfmoeller)
28. 11:59 AM - Re: lightening hole dies.. (Gary Boothe)
29. 12:12 PM - green paint (Ben Ramler)
30. 12:13 PM - Re: dual stick option (flyingmike9)
31. 12:23 PM - Re: Riveting questions. (Edward Moody II)
32. 12:27 PM - Re: Re: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets (Edward Moody II)
33. 12:34 PM - Re: green paint (Edward Moody II)
34. 12:43 PM - Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) (Edward Moody II)
35. 12:45 PM - Re: lightening hole dies.. (Ron Culver)
36. 12:49 PM - Re: Re: lightening hole dies.. (Ron Culver)
37. 02:02 PM - Re: dual stick option (Jaybannist@cs.com)
38. 02:40 PM - Re: dual stick option (Skip Perry)
39. 04:44 PM - Re: lightening hole dies, ATTN: Ron Culver (Randy L. Thwing)
40. 05:09 PM - Re: Re: lightening hole dies, ATTN: Ron Culver (Craig Payne)
41. 06:41 PM - Re: dual stick option ()
42. 06:47 PM - Re: Sentimental Journey at Cub Haven (WAYNE BEATTIE)
43. 07:54 PM - Re: Seat belts for sale (wade jones)
44. 08:04 PM - prop (Lee Thomas)
45. 08:16 PM - Is this XL firewall drawing wrong? (chris Sinfield)
46. 09:04 PM - Re: Is this XL firewall drawing wrong? (Craig Payne)
47. 09:15 PM - Re: Re: lightening hole dies, ATTN: Ron Culver (Ron Culver)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
I don't have the plan page numbers handy but they are used in the
elevator horn assembly an dagain to attach the brake pedals to the
rudder pedals.
Dred
---- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:58 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
Where do the SS rivets go? What plan pages?
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
Hello Listers:
I have plans dated 06/03 for the 601XL and on page 6-T-3 I don't see any
reference to SS rivets.
Is this a recent change?
Should I be drilling out rivets rivets this weekend? (OK, next weekend -
it's Fathers Day today.....)
Thanks everyone !
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 6/17/2007 6:32:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dredmoody@cox.net writes:
I don't have the plan page numbers handy but they are used in the elevator
horn assembly an dagain to attach the brake pedals to the rudder pedals.
Dred
---- Original Message -----
From: _Craig Payne_ (mailto:craig@craigandjean.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:58 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
Where do the SS rivets go? What plan pages?
-- Craig
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
DITTO for my plans dated 04/06/04. 6-T-3 dated 06/03 indicates A-5's for
horn attachments, and the Tail Kit Parts List shows only A4's and A5's
included. The Controls Kit however included 20 AS5 rivets designated for
Rudder Pedals, but with the plans calling for 14 AS5 for the SS Piano
Hinge attachments, I have 6 still left.
Robin in AR
N601ZV reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: Crvsecretary@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
Hello Listers:
I have plans dated 06/03 for the 601XL and on page 6-T-3 I don't see
any reference to SS rivets.
Is this a recent change?
Should I be drilling out rivets rivets this weekend? (OK, next
weekend - it's Fathers Day today.....)
Thanks everyone !
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
do not archive
In a message dated 6/17/2007 6:32:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dredmoody@cox.net writes:
I don't have the plan page numbers handy but they are used in the
elevator horn assembly an dagain to attach the brake pedals to the
rudder pedals.
Dred
---- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:58 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
Where do the SS rivets go? What plan pages?
-- Craig
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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See what's free at AOL.com.
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Good Morning Builders and Fliers,
Ben here in St. Cloud. Well yesterday I visited Roger up in Little Falls and I
must say I was very very impressed as to what I seen. He let me look through
all his invoices and the plans and the builders manual. I liked what I saw. Well
I guess the next step for me will be to keep saving up and I guess if I don't
have enought for flight training next year then I might as well buy the rudder
kit and the tool kit and go to town. That is my best set of idea for the
time being. I think next year to I might plan a trip to Mexico, MO to go visit
zenith. If I can't make it then I will just order the metalworking 101 & rudder
DVD and go from there.
take care,
Ben
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
On my 601XL plans dated 08/2005 I noted the following:
First, on 6T3 the AS5 stainless steel rivets are called for to rivet the
bent strip at the aft of the elevator (6T3-8) to the upper and lower
elevator horns (6T3-4 and -5)
Second, on 6B9 the AS5 rivets are called for to rivet the toe brake
pedal hinge (6B9-2) to the toe brake pedal to the rudder pedals (6B9-1
and -3)
I'm guessing that somewhere along the line they found loose or lost
rivets in those applications. My advice (which is far from autoritative)
is to dril out and replace those rivets since they remain fairly
accessible. A second option would be to monitor them closely at
preflight walk-around.
Happy Fathers' Day
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Bellach
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
DITTO for my plans dated 04/06/04. 6-T-3 dated 06/03 indicates A-5's
for horn attachments, and the Tail Kit Parts List shows only A4's and
A5's included. The Controls Kit however included 20 AS5 rivets
designated for Rudder Pedals, but with the plans calling for 14 AS5 for
the SS Piano Hinge attachments, I have 6 still left.
Robin in AR
N601ZV reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: Crvsecretary@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
Hello Listers:
I have plans dated 06/03 for the 601XL and on page 6-T-3 I don't see
any reference to SS rivets.
Is this a recent change?
Should I be drilling out rivets rivets this weekend? (OK, next
weekend - it's Fathers Day today.....)
Thanks everyone !
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
For those who don't have the latest revisions, here is a portion of page 6T3 (revision
03/06) showing the bent strip and how you are to install it.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL/Corvair from scratch
Control surfaces and wing spars complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118883#118883
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ss_rivets_656.pdf
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
I have drawing 6-T-3 dated 08-04 and find no ss rivets. Also do NOT have
6-T-3-8. I do have a 6-T-3-6 which is "Elevator Horn Doubler" which use A-5
rivets. Have seen in the past where drawing was changed for the 601-XL but not
the 601-HD and the drawing number was not changed. ( NOT GOOD DRAFTING RULES).
Jerry-GA
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
Hi Ed,
I like your theory about loose rivets, but I have conflicting
information. Alas, it is my memory involved in this question so you
would be foolish to depend on it.
I remember talking to someone at Zenith (Nick?) about the bent strip
on the elevator. He said the strip was added to comply with the LSA
consensus standard and was not really needed. The impression I got
was it had just been added to the design. So, the idea that
observation of long installed strips led to the AS5 rivets is not
consistent with my memory of this discussion. The only alternative I
can come up with is that the small attach area and calculated load
placed on the rivets leads to more strength requirement than the
aluminum A5 rivets can handle.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 07:40 AM 6/17/2007, you wrote:
>On my 601XL plans dated 08/2005 I noted the following:
>
>First, on 6T3 the AS5 stainless steel rivets are called for to rivet
>the bent strip at the aft of the elevator (6T3-8) to the upper and
>lower elevator horns (6T3-4 and -5)
>
>Second, on 6B9 the AS5 rivets are called for to rivet the toe brake
>pedal hinge (6B9-2) to the toe brake pedal to the rudder pedals (6B9-1 and -3)
>
>I'm guessing that somewhere along the line they found loose or lost
>rivets in those applications. My advice (which is far from
>autoritative) is to dril out and replace those rivets since they
>remain fairly accessible. A second option would be to monitor them
>closely at preflight walk-around.
>
>Happy Fathers' Day
>
>Dred
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
Sounds plausible.
Ed
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
<p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Ed,
I like your theory about loose rivets, but I have conflicting
information. Alas, it is my memory involved in this question so you
would be foolish to depend on it.
I remember talking to someone at Zenith (Nick?) about the bent strip
on the elevator. He said the strip was added to comply with the LSA
consensus standard and was not really needed. The impression I got
was it had just been added to the design. So, the idea that
observation of long installed strips led to the AS5 rivets is not
consistent with my memory of this discussion. The only alternative I
can come up with is that the small attach area and calculated load
placed on the rivets leads to more strength requirement than the
aluminum A5 rivets can handle.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
Thanks Larry.
I've been wondering how the strip was attached since I saw the rev in the
drawing updates. For those who haven't seen the rev, look at ....
http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/xl/data/xl-update-3rd-ed-1st-rev-4-05.pdf
Herb
Colorado
601XL/plans 80% done
Subaru EA81 Turbo
>From: "lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets
>Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 07:58:48 -0700
>
>
>For those who don't have the latest revisions, here is a portion of page
>6T3 (revision 03/06) showing the bent strip and how you are to install it.
>
>--------
>Larry Winger
>Tustin, CA
>601XL/Corvair from scratch
>Control surfaces and wing spars complete
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118883#118883
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/ss_rivets_656.pdf
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Riveting questions. |
Afternoon Listers,
Has anyone on the list either 701 or 601 found a need for a bucking bar to make
sure the rivers go flat?
thanks,
Ben
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
My 6-T-3 sheet of 06/03 shows only the 6T3-6 ELEVATOR HORN DOUBLER
riveted with 7 regular A5's - no AS5 rivets and no 6T-8. I've been
planning to get an updated set of plans anyway, and have now moved that
to the top of my To-Do list.
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Moody II
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
On my 601XL plans dated 08/2005 I noted the following:
First, on 6T3 the AS5 stainless steel rivets are called for to rivet
the bent strip at the aft of the elevator (6T3-8) to the upper and lower
elevator horns (6T3-4 and -5)
Second, on 6B9 the AS5 rivets are called for to rivet the toe brake
pedal hinge (6B9-2) to the toe brake pedal to the rudder pedals (6B9-1
and -3)
I'm guessing that somewhere along the line they found loose or lost
rivets in those applications. My advice (which is far from autoritative)
is to dril out and replace those rivets since they remain fairly
accessible. A second option would be to monitor them closely at
preflight walk-around.
Happy Fathers' Day
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Bellach
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
DITTO for my plans dated 04/06/04. 6-T-3 dated 06/03 indicates A-5's
for horn attachments, and the Tail Kit Parts List shows only A4's and
A5's included. The Controls Kit however included 20 AS5 rivets
designated for Rudder Pedals, but with the plans calling for 14 AS5 for
the SS Piano Hinge attachments, I have 6 still left.
Robin in AR
N601ZV reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: Crvsecretary@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
Hello Listers:
I have plans dated 06/03 for the 601XL and on page 6-T-3 I don't
see any reference to SS rivets.
Is this a recent change?
Should I be drilling out rivets rivets this weekend? (OK, next
weekend - it's Fathers Day today.....)
Thanks everyone !
Tracy Smith
Naugatuck, CT
601xl N458XL (reserved)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting questions. |
Ben,
I'm assuming you're talking about the solid rivets in the wing/center
spars. If so, my answer is "yes." I found the 3 lb. TP1111 bucking bar
from Aircraft Spruce (
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2007Individual/Cat07545.pdf) to work
perfectly for the AN-470-AD-5 and AD-6 rivets in those parts. I used it in
conjunction with the 2602A pneumatic rivet gun from Aircraft Tool Supplies (
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/pdf/catalogs/ECat2006.pdf).
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
Plans-built 601XL/Corvair
Control surfaces and wing spars complete
On 6/17/07, Ben Ramler <ben_ramler2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Afternoon Listers,
>
> Has anyone on the list either 701 or 601 found a need for a bucking bar to
> make sure the rivers go flat?
>
> thanks,
>
> Ben
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting questions. |
A bucking bar and a 2X rivet gun with dome head driver of the
appropriate size would probably work but I've gotten by with a flat and
a dome head die in a hand powered squeezer. My squeezer has an optional
6 inch deep jaw which helps reach a lot of rivets. I haven't had to
squeeze more than a half dozen or so that were in tight areas.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ramler
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 11:30 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Riveting questions.
Afternoon Listers,
Has anyone on the list either 701 or 601 found a need for a bucking
bar to make sure the rivers go flat?
thanks,
Ben
Message 15
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| Subject: | Stainless Steel Rivets |
The LSA standard is the reason for the update, due to it's use in the
flight training category. Other then that the elevator has remained the
same for the last 20 years. IF you don't count the trim tab. Install the
new strip or not, your choice. However, I didn't remove my elevator to
install it and my plane is the Can-Zac demonstrator.
Mark Townsend
Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
president@can-zacaviation.com
www.can-zacaviation.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Mulwitz
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Stainless Steel Rivets
<p.mulwitz@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Ed,
I like your theory about loose rivets, but I have conflicting
information. Alas, it is my memory involved in this question so you
would be foolish to depend on it.
I remember talking to someone at Zenith (Nick?) about the bent strip
on the elevator. He said the strip was added to comply with the LSA
consensus standard and was not really needed. The impression I got
was it had just been added to the design. So, the idea that
observation of long installed strips led to the AS5 rivets is not
consistent with my memory of this discussion. The only alternative I
can come up with is that the small attach area and calculated load
placed on the rivets leads to more strength requirement than the
aluminum A5 rivets can handle.
Best regards,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 07:40 AM 6/17/2007, you wrote:
>On my 601XL plans dated 08/2005 I noted the following:
>
>First, on 6T3 the AS5 stainless steel rivets are called for to rivet
>the bent strip at the aft of the elevator (6T3-8) to the upper and
>lower elevator horns (6T3-4 and -5)
>
>Second, on 6B9 the AS5 rivets are called for to rivet the toe brake
>pedal hinge (6B9-2) to the toe brake pedal to the rudder pedals (6B9-1
and -3)
>
>I'm guessing that somewhere along the line they found loose or lost
>rivets in those applications. My advice (which is far from
>autoritative) is to dril out and replace those rivets since they
>remain fairly accessible. A second option would be to monitor them
>closely at preflight walk-around.
>
>Happy Fathers' Day
>
>Dred
8:23 AM
8:23 AM
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) |
Hi guys & gals,
I'm not building yet so you can take my comments accordingly. During one of
my talks with Mark Townsend, he mentioned that I might add a large PC-type
muffin fan in the rear of the fuselage. Wire it to a three position switch
(on-off-on) someplace on the panel. When parked on the ramp in the sun, you
can open the front vents and turn on the fan. This will help keep the
cockpit from building up a great deal of heat. Wire that position to a
thermostat. The other switch position is just on all the time. It can be
used during taxi and on very hot days.
Sounds interesting, I might consider something like if and when I ever get
to that point.
Dave Thompson
Westminster, CA
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) |
Add a solar panel to power that small fan and you can leave it on all the
time.
Carroll
do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting questions. |
Larry,Edward, and Group,
Do you need a bucking bar when you go to rivet on the fusealge or the rudder?
Ben
Zenith wann-be
----- Original Message ----
From: Larry Winger <larrywinger@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 11:56:52 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Riveting questions.
Ben,
I'm assuming you're talking about the solid rivets in the wing/center spars. If so, my answer is "yes." I found the 3 lb. TP1111 bucking bar from Aircraft Spruce ( http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2007Individual/Cat07545.pdf) to work perfectly for the AN-470-AD-5 and AD-6 rivets in those parts. I used it in conjunction with the 2602A pneumatic rivet gun from Aircraft Tool Supplies ( http://www.aircraft-tool.com/pdf/catalogs/ECat2006.pdf).
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
Plans-built 601XL/Corvair
Control surfaces and wing spars complete
On 6/17/07, Ben Ramler <ben_ramler2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
Afternoon Listers,
Has anyone on the list either 701 or 601 found a need for a bucking bar to make
sure the rivers go flat?
thanks,
Ben
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo!
Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
Thanks! Looks like an easy add-on.
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 9:58 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets
>
> For those who don't have the latest revisions, here is a portion of page
> 6T3 (revision 03/06) showing the bent strip and how you are to install it.
>
> --------
> Larry Winger
> Tustin, CA
> 601XL/Corvair from scratch
> Control surfaces and wing spars complete
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118883#118883
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/ss_rivets_656.pdf
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Cutting holes in plexiglass |
Members,
For those of you who intend to buy either the vent that requires a
2 & 1/2 inch hole or the vent that requires a 3 & 1/2 inch hole the
following information may be of use to you. I ordered two of the
Vista-Vents that require a 2 & 1/2 inch hole and when I checked my hole
saws I found that the standard set does not have either size (2 & 1/2 or
3 & 1/2 sizes. All of the larger hole saws in the set are even inches
with no half sizes. I called the tool department at Lowe's and was told
that hole saws are available there in 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 for all of the
larger saws therefor if any of you run into the same problem, remember
you can get the 2 & 1/2 or the 3 & 1/2 inch hole saw at Lowe's.
Tracy Stone
Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 3300
Message 21
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| Subject: | dual stick option |
I am building a 601XL from a quick-build kit. I chose the dual stick option
and it involves drilling into the spar and attempting to snake a nut down
the channel and onto an AN3 bolt that is about 9" away. If any of you have
done this successfully please, please, please tell me how you did it! I have
been trying for about a day and so far I am not winning the war. I
understand they now rivet this in place at the factory:-(
Thanks for any suggestions.
Skip Perry
Fort Myers, Florida
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
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| Subject: | lightening hole dies.. |
I am in need of the three dies or someone to make them for me at a
price. I don't mind owning,buying or renting with deposit. I have the
little jig with the wheels but can't seem to make the thing work well
enough or quick enough..
Thanks,
Ron Culver
701 Scratch builder
e-mail addy available on request
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| Subject: | Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) |
> ... add a large PC-type muffin fan in the rear of the fuselage.
Gary Ray did this in his 601XL. Question is, is such a small fan enough to
make a difference?
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) |
If you use a solar panel there are ones all ready fabricated which are
used to cool a car by installing it in a window.It would seem an easy
task to modify one for the purpose.Also don't forget about screening the
hole to keep out mice etc. and making sure it doesn't act as a water
collector..
Sounds like a great idea.. simple, easily doable and not expensive ..
----- Original Message -----
From: Trainnut01@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in
cockpit)
Add a solar panel to power that small fan and you can leave it on all
the time.
Carroll
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
Message 25
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| Subject: | dual stick option |
I have someone else's picture someplace but can't find it. You may have
already tried this but as I recall you duct-tape an open-ended wrench to the
end of a stick to extend the reach. Then you stick the nut to the wrench
with more tape. You want to just hold the nut enough to keep it in place.
Place the tape on the rear side of the wrench and nut so the bolt is free to
enter from the front.
An inspection mirror to look through the bolt hole and an extra set of hands
would help.
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
But Guys,
The original question still begs an answer. What are these Rivets? Are they a
Cherry N, CherryMax, Cherry Q, Avdel Avtex? What?
Anybody know?
Kevin R.
601XL/ Corvair
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: lightening hole dies.. |
I feel your pain.
That thingy with the wheels does a crappy job on unflanged parts; I found that
its actual use is to tweak curvature induced by the flanging process out of the
part after the flange is formed. At this task, it works like a dream!
I screwed around with synthetic decking (doesn't actually come wide enough to do
the 115 hole and isn't flat either), and finally made a set out of high quality
plywood using a sandwich technique and a router table. This solution turned
out to work the best. After flanging two wings worth, the only wear they show
is on the back side from the clamps and vise.
The key to making ANY flanging die set work is to ensure that the small end of
the male die JUST clears the deburred hole that you make in your parts. If you
are thinking in terms of the raw hole, the deburring process will remove enough
material that the male die will no longer fit correctly. Zenith specs the
fit at +/- 3 mm, but that will produce flanges that are wayyyy offset. That
may be all thats required structurally, but you won't want anyone to see your
work at the airport when you are done! Any slop at all results in horrible looking
offset on the finished flange. So, the thing to do is to measure your deburred
hole size and make the dies to match that number.
I also found that the noise on this forum about the need for hydraulic presses
is overkill. So is using a car to provide the pressure. A simple 4 inch vise
with 1 extra 4 or 5 inch C-clamp, or even just 2 or 3 C-clamps, will easily provide
all the pressure you would ever need. I even experimented with the dead-blow
hammer technique - that worked fine too.
I was in the process of writing some instructions on how to construct these dies,
and even toying with making some extra sets for others. I'm going to try to
attach a picture. How much do you think a set would be worth? No promises,
they can be a pain to do (cutting out the blanks for the 115 set is not easy
- I wound up buying a wheel cutter - like a flycutter, but opposite), but maybe.....
I would sell my set, but I'm in the middle of the wing-building process
and I may need to make some replacement parts before its over.
Doug
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118949#118949
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1679_small_172.jpg
Message 28
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| Subject: | lightening hole dies.. |
Ron,
I have 3 home-made wood dies that you are welcomed to borrow. My wings are
done and I am mired in the center section, so it will be awhile before I
need them back for the fuse.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Culver
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 11:08 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: lightening hole dies..
I am in need of the three dies or someone to make them for me at a price. I
don't mind owning,buying or renting with deposit. I have the little jig with
the wheels but can't seem to make the thing work well enough or quick
enough..
Thanks,
Ron Culver
701 Scratch builder
e-mail addy available on request
Message 29
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Hi everyone,
When I was at Rogers place i noticed he painted some green ant-corrosion paint
on certain places. My question this does anyone know what the name of it is and
don't you have to paint the whole entire airplane with this stuff or no?
thanks,
Ben
Zenith wanna-be
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: dual stick option |
hi there
i used blutack on a open spanner and attached the spanner to a length of wood took
some time but i did it
goog luck
mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118956#118956
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting questions. |
I don't think the bucking bar is a necessity at all though it may be
handy once in a while. The solid rivets that I used (for nutplates or
filling a hole that didn't actually need a pulled rivet) were easliy
"squoze" with the hand squeezer. If you aren't building your own spar
sections you don't need any solid rivets for structural purposes. As I
poorly explained earlier, I occassionaly used the squeezer to finish
setting a rivet whose formed head stuck out in the way too much. There
weren't many of those so far and I'm about to set the fuselage on its
gear. There are other guys who have a lot deeper engineering backgrounds
and much more building experience so their mileage may vary.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ramler
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Riveting questions.
Larry,Edward, and Group,
Do you need a bucking bar when you go to rivet on the fusealge or the
rudder?
Ben
Zenith wann-be
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Rivets |
Best bet is to call the factory and buy them there.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: KEVIN LEROY RUPERT
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Stainless Steel Rivets
But Guys,
The original question still begs an answer. What are these Rivets? Are
they a
Cherry N, CherryMax, Cherry Q, Avdel Avtex? What? Anybody know?
Kevin R.
601XL/ Corvair
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
6/16/2007 12:50 PM
Message 33
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|
We've been through this in the archives pretty thoroughly but the short
version is:
You really only need to prime the places where two parts touch because
moisture will wick in and remain there often. Remember the places where
skins overlap.
I chose to prime the entire inside of mine so that anything that won't
be painted later for esthetics will be at least be primed for
protection.
The green stuff (also available in gray) is likely either Zinc Chromate
(very toxic.... be careful) or Zinc Oxide (somewhat more friendly) self
etching primer. I used Tempo Zinc Oxide from rattle cans and bought it
at Aircraft Spruce.
The water based stuff, Cortec, seems to be okay too.
If you don't do at least some of the above, you should use the
spray-the-inside-of-the-plane stuff once a year or so.
Dred
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ramler
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 2:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: green paint
Hi everyone,
When I was at Rogers place i noticed he painted some green
ant-corrosion paint on certain places. My question this does anyone know
what the name of it is and don't you have to paint the whole entire
airplane with this stuff or no?
thanks,
Ben
Zenith wanna-be
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in cockpit) |
I have two muffin fans in my fuselage. There's a 4" one in the bulkhead
at the rear of the baggage area that will move 35 scfm which should
actually be helpful if run a few minutes before start up or during a
prolonged taxi. I have a second one about 5" in diameter which moves 45
scfm and it is mounted in the lightening hole in the bracing channel
from the panel to the firewall. That one blows air from the lower
cockpit area up past the radio, x-ponder, and the two AF-3400 glass
panel units. I intend only on/off switches for both (no thermostat). I
hooked them up to a solar panel that a friend wants to use in his RV7-A
and the result was pretty anemic. Maybe these panels weren't the best
available.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Cutting a hole in plexiglass (heat in
cockpit)
> ... add a large PC-type muffin fan in the rear of the fuselage.
Gary Ray did this in his 601XL. Question is, is such a small fan
enough to make a difference?
-- Craig
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: lightening hole dies.. |
Gary,
That would be great but I insist on renting not borrowing and also
figure out a deposit ..my e-mail is rculver@nycap.rr.com ..
Thanks,
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Boothe
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: lightening hole dies..
Ron,
I have 3 home-made wood dies that you are welcomed to borrow. My wings
are done and I am mired in the center section, so it will be awhile
before I need them back for the fuse.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Culver
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 11:08 AM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: lightening hole dies..
I am in need of the three dies or someone to make them for me at a
price. I don't mind owning,buying or renting with deposit. I have the
little jig with the wheels but can't seem to make the thing work well
enough or quick enough..
Thanks,
Ron Culver
701 Scratch builder
e-mail addy available on request
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: lightening hole dies.. |
Thanks Doug but I really dont want to have to farbricate them myself. I will
be in contact with Gary. If for some unforseen reason this doesn't work out
I could wait until you are finished with your wings etc. but at 72 I really
can't tarry too long..heh..
Best,
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "dfmoeller" <dfmoeller@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 2:57 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: lightening hole dies..
>
> I feel your pain.
>
> That thingy with the wheels does a crappy job on unflanged parts; I found
> that its actual use is to tweak curvature induced by the flanging process
> out of the part after the flange is formed. At this task, it works like a
> dream!
>
> I screwed around with synthetic decking (doesn't actually come wide enough
> to do the 115 hole and isn't flat either), and finally made a set out of
> high quality plywood using a sandwich technique and a router table. This
> solution turned out to work the best. After flanging two wings worth, the
> only wear they show is on the back side from the clamps and vise.
>
> The key to making ANY flanging die set work is to ensure that the small
> end of the male die JUST clears the deburred hole that you make in your
> parts. If you are thinking in terms of the raw hole, the deburring
> process will remove enough material that the male die will no longer fit
> correctly. Zenith specs the fit at +/- 3 mm, but that will produce
> flanges that are wayyyy offset. That may be all thats required
> structurally, but you won't want anyone to see your work at the airport
> when you are done! Any slop at all results in horrible looking offset on
> the finished flange. So, the thing to do is to measure your deburred hole
> size and make the dies to match that number.
>
> I also found that the noise on this forum about the need for hydraulic
> presses is overkill. So is using a car to provide the pressure. A simple
> 4 inch vise with 1 extra 4 or 5 inch C-clamp, or even just 2 or 3
> C-clamps, will easily provide all the pressure you would ever need. I
> even experimented with the dead-blow hammer technique - that worked fine
> too.
>
> I was in the process of writing some instructions on how to construct
> these dies, and even toying with making some extra sets for others. I'm
> going to try to attach a picture. How much do you think a set would be
> worth? No promises, they can be a pain to do (cutting out the blanks for
> the 115 set is not easy - I wound up buying a wheel cutter - like a
> flycutter, but opposite), but maybe..... I would sell my set, but I'm in
> the middle of the wing-building process and I may need to make some
> replacement parts before its over.
>
>
> Doug
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118949#118949
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_1679_small_172.jpg
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | dual stick option |
Skip,
I did that job with the center spar section out of the airplane and on a work table.
That probably isn't an option with the quick build kit. Anyway, I used
one of those old shirt-pocket, telescoping pointers. To that I duct-taped an
open-end box wrench. To the open end wrench, I put a small piece of duct tape
on the flat which would be at the back when inserted into the spar slot. That
little piece of duct tape holds the nut. The bolt is inserted and rotated from
the outside. It sounds a lot easier than it really is! Patience, a steady
hand and more patience are an absolute necessity. A good, full set of verbal
obscenities might be helpful. Good Luck !!!
Jay in Dallas
"Skip Perry" <sperry50@comcast.net> wrote:
>I am building a 601XL from a quick-build kit. I chose the dual stick option
>and it involves drilling into the spar and attempting to snake a nut down
>the channel and onto an AN3 bolt that is about 9" away. If any of you have
>done this successfully please, please, please tell me how you did it! I have
>been trying for about a day and so far I am not winning the war. I
>understand they now rivet this in place at the factory:-(
>
>
>
>Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>
>
>Skip Perry
>
>Fort Myers, Florida
>
>
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | dual stick option |
>From what I've received so far I am doing what most everyone else has done,
just no success yet. I have used most of my verbal obscenities at least one
or more times. Time to get the girlfriend involved! Thanks to all who
responded so far.
Skip Perry
Ft. Myers, Florida
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: dual stick option
Skip,
I did that job with the center spar section out of the airplane and on a
work table. That probably isn't an option with the quick build kit.
Anyway, I used one of those old shirt-pocket, telescoping pointers. To that
I duct-taped an open-end box wrench. To the open end wrench, I put a small
piece of duct tape on the flat which would be at the back when inserted into
the spar slot. That little piece of duct tape holds the nut. The bolt is
inserted and rotated from the outside. It sounds a lot easier than it
really is! Patience, a steady hand and more patience are an absolute
necessity. A good, full set of verbal obscenities might be helpful. Good
Luck !!!
Jay in Dallas
"Skip Perry" <sperry50@comcast.net> wrote:
>I am building a 601XL from a quick-build kit. I chose the dual stick option
>and it involves drilling into the spar and attempting to snake a nut down
>the channel and onto an AN3 bolt that is about 9" away. If any of you have
>done this successfully please, please, please tell me how you did it! I
have
>been trying for about a day and so far I am not winning the war. I
>understand they now rivet this in place at the factory:-(
>
>
>
>Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>
>
>Skip Perry
>
>Fort Myers, Florida
>
>
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: lightening hole dies, ATTN: Ron Culver |
I'm crushed, CRUSHED that Doug considers my "gravity powered lightning hole
press" method as "noise" on the list. The bigger point is that nearly every
builder has these tools (a truck and a hydraulic jack) at their disposal, so
they can accomplish the task with ZERO additional investment. Sure it's
overkill, but you can do it without spending a dime, nor juggling "C" clamps
AND a vise. When you are pressing the lightning holes in a 12' wing spar
web, how handy is that to hold in a bench vise?
I am attaching the pic of my operation for the benefit of the new guys.
This is again, old hat for the list oldtimers who will cringe at viewing it
again, I apologize in advance.
The steel dies shown were used as shown, but they can just as easily be used
in a hydraulic press or other pressing method.
They were made from ZA prints and have been used by several builders so far
with no problems.
Attn: Ron Culver:
Do you have ALL your parts of the project ready for flanging or how long
will you need to keep the dies?
They are currently "in the field" on loan to a 701 builder who has finished
with them and is "waiting instructions" on who to forward them to.
If you are interested, please reply with info. I loan them out to ZA
builders on this list for shipping only. I prefer that they not stay with a
builder for years, but months is certainly not a problem.
I lent them to a 601 builder who had a problem with one of the dies. One of
the holes requiring flanging on a 601 is within a channel, so that
particular die needs to be altered (edges trimmed) to fit within the
channel. If they ever arrive "home", I will do this conversion to work with
the 601. As they are now, they do everything required on a 701.
Best Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas, NV
> I also found that the noise on this forum about the need for hydraulic
> presses is overkill. So is using a car to provide the pressure.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: lightening hole dies, ATTN: Ron Culver |
> "gravity powered lightning hole press"
Sorry, I'm building my plane on the International Space Station. So no
gravity is available (or only micro-gravity).
-- Craig
Do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: dual stick option |
Here's another one you can try: Almost every auto parts store, and Wal
mart, has an articulated plastic extension originally designed to inse
rt spark plugs. You bend it (the plastic pieces sort of snap into the
curve you need) around whatever's in the way, and turn the knob on you
r end to rotate the inner shaft. The business end has a sleeve to hold
the spark plug. Just tape a small extension on the end, put some stic
ky stuff in the socket to hold the nut, and apply to the offending par
t. There's also a similar tool that ends in a 1/4 in. drive, that work
s even easier.=0A=0APaul Rodriguez=0A601XL/Corvair=0A ---
-- Original Message ----- =0A From: Jaybannist@cs.com<mailto:Jayba
nnist@cs.com> =0A To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list
@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 3:57 PM=0A Sub
ject: RE: Zenith-List: dual stick option=0A=0A=0A Skip,
=0A=0A I did that job with the center spar section out of the airp
lane and on a work table. That probably isn't an option with the quic
k build kit. Anyway, I used one of those old shirt-pocket, telescopin
g pointers. To that I duct-taped an open-end box wrench. To the open
end wrench, I put a small piece of duct tape on the flat which would b
e at the back when inserted into the spar slot. That little piece of
duct tape holds the nut. The bolt is inserted and rotated from the ou
tside. It sounds a lot easier than it really is! Patience, a steady
hand and more patience are an absolute necessity. A good, full set of
verbal obscenities might be helpful. Good Luck !!!=0A=0A Jay i
n Dallas=0A=0A=0A "Skip Perry" <sperry50@comcast.net<mailto:
sperry50@comcast.net>> wrote:=0A=0A >I am building a 601XL from
a quick-build kit. I chose the dual stick option=0A >and it invol
ves drilling into the spar and attempting to snake a nut down=0A >
the channel and onto an AN3 bolt that is about 9" away. If any of you
have=0A >done this successfully please, please, please tell me how
you did it! I have=0A >been trying for about a day and so far I a
m not winning the war. I=0A >understand they now rivet this in pla
ce at the factory:-(=0A >=0A > =0A >=0A >Thanks for an
y suggestions.=0A >=0A > =0A >=0A >Skip Perry=0A >
=0A >Fort Myers, Florida=0A >=0A > =0A >=0A >DO NO
T ARCHIVE=0A >=0A >=0A=0A=0A
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Sentimental Journey at Cub Haven |
Let's hope this generates some interest.
It seems funny not agonizing over the weather for Wednesday this year, Usually
I'm on the computer every day for a week before I leave.
We'll be blasting off at O'dark thirty Wednesday morning to get through New York
before the traffic starts. Should get to LH by late morning taking our time.
If you arrive and we don't see you first, look for a white Winnebago Sightseer
with a Beige Honda CRV.
Mon and Dad are looking forward to seeing you as well.
After 10 years of summers parked on the ramp, I finally got hit by serious hail.
All horizontal surfaces have little divits including the turtledeck. Very annoying,
but then, I feel that I have dodged many storms in the last ten years.
Still flies fine. Maybe even better, like a golf ball.
Did my BFR in a J3 last Thursday. What a humbling little bastard that thing is
on pavement!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Small
To: zenith-list
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Sentimental Journey at Cub Haven
MARK YOUR CALENDARS...
The 22nd Annual Sentimental Journey to Cub Haven Fly-In will take place June
20, 21, 22, 23, 2007 at the historic William T. Piper Memorial Airport in Lock
Haven, PA. The Theme will be 70 years of Piper.
Featured airplanes: J-4 and Comanche PA-24
If flying in, check out the Fly-in Air Ops at:
http://www.sentimentaljourneyfly-in.com/
There are two runways in use, a paved 3500 footer and a parallel grass strip,
BUT the state aviation agency gets antsy about simultaneous landings or takeoffs;
also, many NORAD a/c in the pattern and they'll fly all day. Only here will
you be roused from your tent at 5:30 a.m. by the sound of two or three Kinners
in the pattern doing low, wake-you-up flybys.
Wx permitting we usually get a few Zeniths to show up. Ken Lennox should be
up from MD, and Ray Blondin may have the hours flown off and be there from DL.
You NJ guys are always welcome. If the thunderboomers hold off I'll be there
but event regular Wayne Beattie from CT is coming via motorhome.
This is a great fly-in! Flying all day long, good, inexpensive food, free entertainment
at night, Hoot Gibson as guest speaker Saturday night, Piper Museum
within an easy walk, just laid back fun for aviation enthusiasts.
Join us...jeff
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Seat belts for sale |
Hi Dreb ,that sounds OK .Does this include two sets of seat & shoulder
belts if so let me have your mailing address .
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Moody II
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Seat belts for sale
Hi Wade. I don't want to pull anyone's eyes out over this. 2" wide
seat belts without a shoulder harness run $36 - $40 each so how about
$50 plus shipping for the pair? UPS ought to run about $15 from me to
you. Sound fair enough? The nice part is that these are the ones that
the plans accomodate so you don't have to improvise if you don't want
to.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Seat belts for sale
Hi Dred I am a long way from needing seat belts but I would be
interested .my e-mail is wjones@brazoriainet.com
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
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Anyone on the list that is flying a 701 with a Jabiru 3300?
What length prop are you using and is it 2 or 3 blade.
Thanks,
Lee Thomas
Scratch built and trying to tweak a Warp drive 3 blade
Message 45
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| Subject: | Is this XL firewall drawing wrong? |
Can someone who is about the same building as me please confirm or deny that the
side firewall drawing is wrong on 6-B-7.
OK turn to the page and look at the top Engine mount location. On the drawing it
shows the bottom of 6B7-2 as level with 6B7-1. Now if you add the width of 6B7-1
30mm and the 20 mm of the Langle that adds up to 50mm. The width of 6B7-2
is 60mm How can they be level at the top and bottom as the drawing shows.. ???
I have the latest set
My firewall has the 10mm split and that is what made it not jell when putting in
the top firewall bolt.
So what gives have I made a mistake or is the drawing wrong?
Chris.
Zodiac XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119045#119045
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| Subject: | Is this XL firewall drawing wrong? |
I went out and measured my plane (vintage 2000/2001). My parts match the
dimensions you cite and those on the 3/06 plans. What is different is that
neither the top or the bottom of 6B7-2 line up with anything. The top is
about 5 mm above the top edge of the standard L and the bottom is about 5 mm
below the lower edge of 6B7-1. So 5+5+20+30=60 and all is right with the
world. I don't see anything critical in the vertical position of 6B7-2. As
long as the rivets through the L and 6B7-1 are far enough from the bends in
6B7-2 and the upper motor mount brackets 6B6-4 fit you should be fine.
-- Craig
Message 47
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ÿÿÿÿ &gÿÿÿÿhe hÿÿÿÿ reqÿÿÿÿng fÿÿÿÿing ÿÿÿÿ 601ÿÿÿÿwithÿÿÿÿ chaÿÿÿÿ, soÿÿÿÿt
ÿÿÿÿ>ÿÿÿÿticuÿÿÿÿdie ÿÿÿÿs toÿÿÿÿalteÿÿÿÿ(edges trimmed) to fit within the
> channel. If they ever arrive "home", I will do this conversion to work
> with
> the 601. As they are now, they do everything required on a 701.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas, NV
>
>
>> I also found that the noise on this forum about the need for hydraulic
>> presses is overkill. So is using a car to provide the pressure.
>
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