Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:24 AM - Re: Re: 601XL fuel sender (Clive Richards)
2. 03:18 AM - Re: torque wrench (David Downey)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: torque wrench (Robert Schoenberger)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: 601XL fuel sender (Gig Giacona)
5. 07:16 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 (Joe)
6. 07:16 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 (Joe)
7. 07:19 AM - Re: torque wrench (LarryMcFarland)
8. 07:22 AM - Re: Re: WW 601 Fuel and Ign System Parts list UPDATE (LarryMcFarland)
9. 08:25 AM - Re: WW 601 Fuel and Ign System Parts list (Gig Giacona)
10. 10:15 AM - Re: Re: 601XL fuel sender (Clive Richards)
11. 10:23 AM - Re: Re: AMD Patriot (George Harris)
12. 10:25 AM - Re: Re: 601XL fuel sender (Craig Payne)
13. 10:44 AM - Re: Jab3300 alternator (Matt & Jo)
14. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: AMD Patriot (Juan Vega)
15. 10:57 AM - More torque wrench (Zed Smith)
16. 01:22 PM - Re: torque wrench (milreed)
17. 02:22 PM - Re: torque wrench (ashontz)
18. 02:28 PM - Re: More torque wrench (ashontz)
19. 04:23 PM - Jabiru 3300 PMA (howado1@comcast.net)
20. 05:01 PM - Pucker Factor (wade jones)
21. 05:15 PM - Re: Jabiru 3300 PMA (Craig Payne)
22. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 (Arthur Olechowski)
23. 05:49 PM - Re: Pucker Factor (George Swinford)
24. 06:14 PM - Cowl Gappage (kkinney)
25. 06:15 PM - Re: Pucker Factor (LarryMcFarland)
26. 09:08 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 (Noel Loveys)
27. 09:21 PM - Re: AMD Patriot (jsight)
28. 09:32 PM - Re: Re: AMD Patriot (NYTerminat@aol.com)
29. 10:08 PM - Re: torque wrench (Bob Duns)
30. 10:12 PM - Re: Pucker Factor (xl)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL fuel sender |
Alan
If you did read my previous reply it was incorrect I had the
sence wrong.
I fitted DATCON gauges with universal senders to Rays The resistances were
33 ohms Full 240 Ohms Empty. You can compair with your working side.
So if the wire to sender is open circuit to ground you may have lost the
tank ground. I assume you fitted one as the tanks are insulated with cork
and should be grounded to airframe to prevent static differences.
Also if you are relying on this to ground the sender is the sender grounded
to the tank and not insulated by the gaskets The universal sender I fitted
was designed to be grounded by a staple through the gasket to the tank which
I thought would be unreliable so I fitted a ground wire.
Clive Richards
RAYS 601HD G CBDG 140 Hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "AlanSmith" <oaksnspokes@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 601XL fuel sender
>
> I?Tll check the resistance on the sender wire, that?Ts a good tip. I
> would like to avoid drilling out my sender access covers, and messing up
> our new paint, but expect it to come to that eventually.
>
> The failure must be something other than a physically stuck float, because
> it failed when we had about 6 gallons in the tank. I suppose the float
> could be sitting on the bottom of the tank, with a hole in it... I have
> attempted to look into the tank with a mirror, but have not been able to
> get the right angle and the right light.
>
> When the sender was working, it worked well. We were getting reasonable
> readings in gallon increments. The float hits the top of travel at
> about 13 gallons, so it can?Tt see 14 and 15. When the gauge reads 0
> gallons, we still have about 2/3 of a gallon, but that?Ts close enough to
> zero for me.
>
> Thanks for all the input.
>
> --------
> Alan Smith
> Zodiac 601 N601FW
> oaksnspokes@earthlink.net
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125545#125545
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: torque wrench |
Hi Carlos;
This is not meant to be offesnive in any way - smiply information that is critical.
The use of a torque wrench is a skill - and MANY ways of using it will result in
incorrect values. This is one place where I cannot think of any source other
than the AC65-9, -12, or -15 that MIGHT define limits for use.
Among the issues involved in the use of a torque wrench:
Use a torque wrench in such a way that the force applied to the end of the handle
is the only force applied to the fastener; take pains to isolate gripping or
positioning forces (hand over the socket end to position, etc) from adding or
reducing the torque applied/measured.
Do not torque the head of a fastener unless specifically instructed to and the
torque requirement listed is for that condition. Since the bolt "washer face"
is turning with the bolt and not providing an intermediate sliding interface like
a washer under a nut, there is a torque value that is related to that condition
- as there is for any shank friction between the fastener and the stack
clamped.
Make sure that the threads are dry or lubricated as specified in the instruction
as that will grossly affect the clamping force of the fastener.
If torque is required on a "self-locking" nut make sure that you measure the "running
torque" or the torque value that is required to simply run the nut down
the threads due to the locking feature of the nut. Usually the running torque
is added to the torque required for the installation.
The use of an extension arm or crows foot wrench with a torque wrench involve other
considerations. Refer to the referenced ACs.
Jeyoung65@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 7/24/2007 10:11:38 P.M. Eastern
Standard Time, carlossa52@gmail.com writes:
Carlos
Carlos, you are right, 1/4, 3/8. and 1/2 is the size of the sq. drive. 3/8 would
be a good size for building this aircraft. Jerry Ga
DO NOT ARCHIVE
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: torque wrench |
try Harbor Freight. Robert Schoenberger do not archive
Carlos Sa wrote:
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am ready to acquire a torque wrench. (Actually, it'll have to be two
> - read on.)
> I took a look on the net and found a wide range of prices (from around
> $30 to many hundreds).
> Then I searched the Z-list archives and found several tips. This one,
> in response to a query from Bill Morelli is on top of my list:
>
> **I have two torque wrenches. One 20 to 200 Inch/Lbs. The other is 10 to 150
> Foot/Lbs.
> Bought them from JC Whitney $22 for one and $24 (US) for the other.
>
> Leo Gates
> **
> These wrenches are still in the approximate price range, even though
> the posting dates to July 31, 1998!
> http://www.jcwhitney.com
>
> QUESTION: the specs mention 1/4" and 1/2" drive (and some others
> 3/8"). Is that the size of the square "peg" where the socket inserts?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
> Montreal, Canada
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL fuel sender |
Is there a Capacitance sender that could be installed into the top location of
the 601XL tank?
I've got to reopen the wings of mine because I changing the type of fuel line installed
and now I think the the Capacitance might be a better way to go.
Anyone thought out the pros and cons of the options?
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125628#125628
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
Here is a link to the AT-6 which landed on a highway outside of Oshkosh with
an engine failure.
http://ugv.abcnews.go.com/Player.aspx?id=541864
Joe in Oshkosh
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
Here is a link to the AT-6 which landed on a highway outside of Oshkosh with
an engine failure.
http://ugv.abcnews.go.com/Player.aspx?id=541864
Joe in Oshkosh
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: torque wrench |
Carlos,
The ranges you've selected are fine. The ground adjustable prop is
probably where most of your repeat
tightening will occur. I'd look carefully at the head size for its
clearance within the hub on a nut. Otherwise, you'll
find the torque wrench has to be applied to the bolt from outside on the
front face. I recommend you go with 3/8" if
that's what's mostly in your tool box. Not sure why it seems that only
expensive torque wrenches have good clearance
heads. That by itself is not a deal breaker. Torquing the bolt rather
than the nut is acceptable when necessary.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Carlos Sa wrote:
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am ready to acquire a torque wrench. (Actually, it'll have to be two
> - read on.)
> I took a look on the net and found a wide range of prices (from around
> $30 to many hundreds).
> Then I searched the Z-list archives and found several tips. This one,
> in response to a query from Bill Morelli is on top of my list:
>
> **I have two torque wrenches. One 20 to 200 Inch/Lbs. The other is 10 to 150
> Foot/Lbs.
> Bought them from JC Whitney $22 for one and $24 (US) for the other.
>
> Leo Gates
> **
> These wrenches are still in the approximate price range, even though
> the posting dates to July 31, 1998!
> http://www.jcwhitney.com
>
> QUESTION: the specs mention 1/4" and 1/2" drive (and some others
> 3/8"). Is that the size of the square "peg" where the socket inserts?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
> Montreal, Canada
>
> *================================
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: WW 601 Fuel and Ign System Parts list UPDATE |
Hi Bob,
FP could mean Facet Pump,,,, by a supplier that sells more than one mfr
type of pumps.
Larry
do not archive
Bob Duns wrote:
> Hi:
>
> Thanks for updated list of fuel and Ign system parts.
>
> You list facet fuel pump FP 40108 @ 13.40. Do you know the difference
> between an FP 40108 and a plain 40108. Wicks lists FP 40108 and AS
> lists 40108 @ 38.50 , no FP 40108. What does the "FP" mean.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob D.
> 601HD/Corvair
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: WW 601 Fuel and Ign System Parts list |
Is this the hose used for the WW fuel lines?
Aeroquip AQP Stainless Steel Braided HoseHigh performance hose for safe, sure plumbing.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AER%2DFCA0620&N=700+300079+4294906619+115&autoview=sku
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125638#125638
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL fuel sender |
Gig
We have a capacitance type fitted in the side of the header
tank which works ok after we fitted a 12.5 volt regulator to supply it. It
will not see the top 2 inches. I fitted Datcon resistive type in the end of
the wing tanks with difficulty as we did not want to open the wings & the
capacitor type would not fit in this location. (Thought we did not need
gauges as we had header tank but found out they were mandatory in UK).Will
indicate from about the first 5 to 40 litres. the indication is reasonably
steady when you are flying straight & level. A fellow builder on the
airfield fitted capacitance type in his HDS wing tanks & says he only gets a
reliable reading on the ground, I assume he fitted the bendable type in the
top and the fuel sloshes up & down the measuring section. Note you can only
bend a short length at the top not the working part. The straight type may
be ok but due to slope of tank you are limited to ammount you can measure.
Both types are in Aircraft Spruce catalogue.
Clive Richards
Ray Lasnier 601 HD G CBDG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 2:36 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 601XL fuel sender
> <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
>
> Is there a Capacitance sender that could be installed into the top
> location of the 601XL tank?
>
> I've got to reopen the wings of mine because I changing the type of fuel
> line installed and now I think the the Capacitance might be a better way
> to go.
>
> Anyone thought out the pros and cons of the options?
>
> --------
> W.R. "Gig" Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125628#125628
>
>
>
Message 11
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Oh yeah! That's the airplane. That is the one I want ;) Anybody want to
buy a RANS S-16 kit real reasonable ;)
----- Original Message -----
From: "LouB" <LBuckley122@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: AMD Patriot
>
> There is a picture of the AMD Patriot at this N
> Blog site. Click on the picture to enlarge it.
>
> http://mostlyflying.blogspot.com/
>
> Looks like the 750 that was referred to in the RAA article several years
ago
>
> Lou
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125580#125580
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/183amandpatriotateastmanmay2007_158.jpg
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL fuel sender |
The downside to capacitive probes is that they give different readings for
different fuel composition. So avgas will differ significantly from mogas.
And given the funky things that happen with the blends of mogas you could
even get changes in calibration between fill-ups. IMHO I would only use a
capacitive probe if I was going to use avgas exclusively.
Mechanically the capacitive probes are (literally) flexible in their
installation. The actual sensor is just a hollow tube with an electrically
isolated wire inside. The two form the "plates" of the capacitor. If your
gauge or probe can be calibrated then you can cut and bend a probe to fit
your tank.
Here is one source: http://centroidproducts.com/
-- Craig
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Jab3300 alternator |
I modified Z-16 for use with my Jab 3300. I have is available on my
website. I converted it to Delta cad and have it there in both deltacad and
PDF.
http://www.zodiacxl.com/Electrical.html
Hope this helps
Cheers
Matt
www.zodiacxl.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <howado1@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 2:44 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Jab3300 alternator
>
> A question for users of the Jab3300: have you been able to wire the
> alternator regulator into one of the Z- schematics by Bob Knukolls? How
> do you shut off the alternator? As you probably know, the wiring diagrams
> in the Jab manual, pages 54 and 65, are inconsistent. Any of you sorted
> this out?
> Comments wil be greatly appreciated.
> Howard Carter
>
Message 14
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too bad, you should join AOPA as well, you get the mag for free.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: StolBrit <john.hunter@lineone.net>
>Sent: Jul 24, 2007 12:47 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: AMD Patriot
>
>
>Thanks Juan, but like the guys at the beginning of the thread, I don't have access
to a copy of the AOPA mag.
>
>I guess it will appear on the Zenair or AMD website in due course.
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125507#125507
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | More torque wrench |
do not archive
Mention was made earlier as to accuracy of various torque wrenches.
Some years ago a field mechanic for Caterpillar told me that their wrenches were
tested occasionally.
Said they had, and most larger Cat distributors also had, a real test fixture for
this purpose.
When they were in the field and were in doubt, or just wanted to check one, they
clamped a known good one in a vise and used a double-female very short "extension"
to attach the unknown to the known and pulled on the free handle until
the known read full scale....then checked the reading on the suspect wrench.
Said they could check at any point across the range of a given wrench.
This method may not be suitable for NASA, but he swears it works very well for
checking (not calibrating), provided a known "good" wrench is used.
Let the flames begin.
Regards to all,
Zed/701/R912/90+%/etc/do not archive.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: torque wrench |
I find the HF 1/4 " drive air impact wrench very useful, small, light,
and fast. Be careful not to over torque. Use adapters for other sizes.
Mil
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: torque wrench |
[quote="milreed(at)wildblue.net"]I find the HF 1/4 " drive air impact wrench very
useful, small, light, and fast. Be careful not to over torque. Use adapters
for other sizes.
Mil
> [b]
I hope you don't use that as a torque wrench. A torque wrench is intended to torque
a nut (or bolt) down to a specific torque value, not just "hey that's purdy
tight."
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125670#125670
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: More torque wrench |
How did they know the good one was good? I guess a better method would be to clamp
the torque wrench perpendicular to the floor and then add a given weight (say
80 lbs) to the handle of the torque wrench at the 1 foot mark on the handle
from the center of the socket fitting and see that the wrench reads 80ft-lbs.
That's probably how NASA would do it. Actually, NASA would do it that way, but
it would involve 14 engineers each making $180,000/yr, 2 project plans, 4 revisions,
a committee meeting, a follow up meeting, a meeting with the dept of
weights and measures, a $1,200 dinner and drinks working meeting with the head
of the dept of weights and measures, another project revision, and finally wrapped
up with acceptance testing, only to find out they did it in metric rather
than US English measurements.
zsmith3rd(at)earthlink.ne wrote:
> do not archive
>
> Mention was made earlier as to accuracy of various torque wrenches.
>
> Some years ago a field mechanic for Caterpillar told me that their wrenches were
tested occasionally.
> Said they had, and most larger Cat distributors also had, a real test fixture
for this purpose.
>
> When they were in the field and were in doubt, or just wanted to check one, they
clamped a known good one in a vise and used a double-female very short "extension"
to attach the unknown to the known and pulled on the free handle until
the known read full scale....then checked the reading on the suspect wrench.
>
> Said they could check at any point across the range of a given wrench.
>
> This method may not be suitable for NASA, but he swears it works very well for
checking (not calibrating), provided a known "good" wrench is used.
>
> Let the flames begin.
>
> Regards to all,
>
> Zed/701/R912/90+%/etc/do not archive.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125672#125672
Message 19
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Thanks to the responders to my questions about the Jabiru alternator circuitry,
esp to Craig Payne.
The Z-20 diagram shows the output from the regulator connected to a capacitor.
Jabiru does not supply this cap with the engine. The West Coast Jab dealer has,
however, put one in his Jab demo aircraft.
When you disconnect the alternator from the load the pulse signals from the stator
winding drop to a low value, causing the tachometer to drop to zero.
The Z-20 diagram shows the red and yellow wires tied together, but the Jabiru schematic
separates them, putting the red wire on the bus and the yellow wire on
the battery plus terminal. They are separated electrically by a few milliohms,
so tying them together probably works.
The Jab schematic shows the red wire coming from the regulator pin 5 while Z-20
shows the red wire coming from pin 6. Looks like the red and yellow wires are
mixed up. I will try to get Jab to sort this out.
Howard Carter
Message 20
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Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle top skin and will try
very hard to not get the dreaded pucker .This is where it makes a
compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say to back
drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames
.then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in the
group got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better sequence
for this task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top of the
forward side skin .All replies will be greatly appreciated .
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
Message 21
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The Jabiru 3300 Instruction & Maintenance manual shows the internal
schematic of the voltage regulator. In the March 2006 version it is in
section 7.4.1.6. The one wire is the source of the charge current, the other
is the voltage reference line. I believe that the red line is the charge
current output while the yellow is the voltage sense but I am only basing
this on color coding conventions and the Jabiru schematics. The installation
manual shows the red wire going directly to the battery while the yellow is
on the other side of the master switch.
The reason for two separate wires is so that the sense wire "sees" that
actual voltage at the battery without any voltage drop in the charge current
wire. The reason offered for not tying the sense wire directly to the
battery is that with the engine off a very small amount of current flows
into the sense wire which could (over a long period of time) drain the
battery. But the whole point of the sense wire is to accurately sense the
voltage AT THE BATTERY to correctly charge it. So I'm inclined to tie the
two wires in question directly to the battery.
-- Craig
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
That was some awesome piloting. My hats off for him making it down safely with
all those moving obstructions.
do not archive
Art
Joe <joe@kfiz.com> wrote:
Here is a link to the AT-6 which landed on a highway outside of Oshkosh with
an engine failure.
http://ugv.abcnews.go.com/Player.aspx?id=541864
Joe in Oshkosh
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Pucker Factor |
Hi Wade:
Building my 601HD, I dealt with the dreaded pucker in that skin the best
way I could. I cut the middle top skin short and used a separate
triangular piece on each side to span the two tubular frames. I did
this to get a better fit over those two frames, but I think it also made
the pucker easier to deal with.
Looking at several 601XLs at the Arlington Fly-in a couple of weeks ago,
I was struck by how much better it looks to put the side skin over the
top skin in that area. One builder assured me that the pucker is still
there, you just don't see it. I wish I had thought of that solution.
If you put the side skin over the top skin you would have the
opportunity to notch the puckered top skin between rivets, which would
relieve the pucker somewhat and mostly hide the remainder.
Just a thought, for what it's worth. Good luck with it, whatever you
decide to do.
George
----- Original Message -----
From: wade jones
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Pucker Factor
Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle top skin and will
try very hard to not get the dreaded pucker .This is where it makes a
compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say to back
drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames
.then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in the
group got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better sequence
for this task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top of the
forward side skin .All replies will be greatly appreciated .
Wade Jones South Texas
601XL plans building
Cont. 0200
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
7/25/2007 2:55 PM
Message 24
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I have a puzzler - I have a 3/8" gap between the top & bottom cowl, even after
cinching it down with a strap clamp.
The only way I can see of fixing this it to split the bottom cowl and glass in
a little material.
Or hitting the firewall with a "Reducto" spell. (Guess what I'm reading!)
Does anyone have a better idea? Or maybe ingredients for the Reducto?
Thank you in advance,
Kevin Kinney
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125699#125699
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Pucker Factor |
Hi Wade,
The best way to avoid "pucker" is to make sure the bows have enough bend
in them at the outboard 20% radius. You need to have or add bend radius
that will at least make
the last 3 inches of bow roll in to parallel with the fuselage side
sheets. Only then will the last piece of top skin roll around the
fuselage curve without difficulty. The last inch of
top skin and the top inch of fuselage must be parallel with no work by
the pop rivets to hold an angle. Nearly all the problems with this area
come from people having what looks like a fold-edge at the longeron and
top skin. I overlapped the top skins to the fuselage, then the forward
fuselage sides over the rear and top skins.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/topbaggage.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/rearqtrbubble.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/cnpybowsrearqtr.gif
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
wade jones wrote:
> Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle top skin and will
> try very hard to not get the dreaded pucker .This is where it makes a
> compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say to back
> drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames
> .then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in
> the group got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better
> sequence for this task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top
> of the forward side skin .All replies will be greatly appreciated .
> Wade Jones South Texas
> 601XL plans building
> Cont. 0200
Message 26
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| Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 07/24/07 |
You are right about the size of the square pegs. !/4 inch will be for small
wrenches and a little device called a torque meter. Great for torque that
can be attained with a screwdriver size handle.
Next is the 3/8" that is you 20 - 200+ in.lb... The 1/2 will generally be
10 - 200+ft.lb..
There are a few different types of torque wrenches. The one that you have
seen in your local car dealership is the click type. You adjust the torque
required by turning in out a spring inside the handle. At the appropriate
torque you will hear a click designating the torque has been met. The down
side of this wrench is it really should be calibrated every so often (
annually ) and it cannot be used for friction torque where you add the
torque required just to turn the fibre lock nut on a bolt. The click style
wrench is handy because it does have a ratchet drive. Remember to always
release the tension on the spring before storing your wrench.
The next is the digital torque wrench. This wrench has a load cell built
into the handle. You tell it how much torque you want to apply and it will
vibrate or beep at you when the torque is met. Calibration is electronic
and can be checked annually but by and large should be accurate to less than
1% error. I'm not sure if it can meter the drag for friction torque.
The last is the beam wrench. This is a larger wrench which has a pointer
attached to the drive end. Torque is measured by the flex in the handle of
the wrench. It is easy to use this wrench for friction torque and it almost
never will require calibration ( don't drive over it with the pickup!!) You
may find versions of the beam wrench with dial readings etc. generally they
have no moving parts and are there fore cheaper.
Best advice is to get the 1/4 in. torque meter to measure friction torque.
Get the 3/8 wrench either beam or click style to do about 99% of the work on
your plane. And borrow a 1/2" torque wrench when ever you really need it.
Torque wrenches should never be used to remove nuts or bolts only to tighten
them. Click style should be calibrated and have the tension slacked off for
storage. When torquing a nut/bolt with the click style wrench as soon as
the click is heard the fastener is torqued. Clicking two or three times
doesn't help.
Noel
>
> Time: 07:10:27 PM PST US
> From: "Carlos Sa" <carlossa52@gmail.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: torque wrench
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am ready to acquire a torque wrench. (Actually, it'll have
> to be two -
> read on.)
> I took a look on the net and found a wide range of prices
> (from around $30
> to many hundreds).
> Then I searched the Z-list archives and found several tips.
> This one, in
> response to a query from Bill Morelli is on top of my list:
>
> *I have two torque wrenches. One 20 to 200 Inch/Lbs. The
> other is 10 to 150
> Foot/Lbs.
> Bought them from JC Whitney $22 for one and $24 (US) for the other.
>
> Leo Gates*
>
> These wrenches are still in the approximate price range, even
> though the
> posting dates to July 31, 1998!
> http://www.jcwhitney.com
>
> QUESTION: the specs mention 1/4" and 1/2" drive (and some
> others 3/8"). Is
> that the size of the square "peg" where the socket inserts?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
> Montreal, Canada
Message 27
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I have some pictures of it as well:
http://aviationworld.blogspot.com/2007/07/amd-introduces-high-wing-stol-lsa.html
--------
<a href="http://aviationworld.blogspot.com">Aviation Blog</a>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=125722#125722
Message 28
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Wow, climbs 11,000 feet per minute, what a rocket!!!!!!!!
In a message dated 7/26/2007 12:23:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse.sightler@gmail.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "jsight" <jesse.sightler@gmail.com>
I have some pictures of it as well:
http://aviationworld.blogspot.com/2007/07/amd-introduces-high-wing-stol-lsa.ht
ml
--------
_Aviation Blog_ (http://aviationworld.blogspot.com/)
Read this topic online here:
************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: torque wrench |
I appreciated the info on toque wrenches because I am learning to use these
on my corvair conversion. In his video,
WW recommends use of the plain bar type torque wrench rather than the cheap
dial type imports which he claims are not consistently accurate. He
suggested the one sold by Sears. I purchased a Sears 3/8" ft/lbs for about
$20.00 but could not find a Sears torque wrench in in/lbs. I was glad to
see the one on this that is available from J.C. Whitney.
Bob D.
6012HD/Corvair
Melfort, SK
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Pucker Factor |
I put mine on top to keep the water out.
I didn't get much pucker - some, not much.
http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/GeorgiaBelle.jpg
Joe E
N633Z @ BFI
CH601XL, Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 49x64 wood prop
469 hours
http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/
On Wed, 25 Jul 2007, wade jones wrote:
> Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle top skin and will
> try very hard to not get the dreaded pucker .This is where it makes a
> compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say to back
> drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames
> .then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in the
> group got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better sequence
> for this task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top of the
> forward side skin .All replies will be greatly appreciated .
> Wade Jones South Texas
> 601XL plans building
> Cont. 0200
> do not archive
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