Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:18 AM - Re: Aileron Horn Clearance? (DaveG601XL)
2. 05:32 AM - 801 flaperons (Tracy)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: Aileron Horn Clearance? (Debo Cox)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Jab Dual Throttle Setup issue/oil lines (David Brown)
5. 07:06 AM - Instrument questions (MacDonald Doug)
6. 08:06 AM - Re: Instrument questions (Bolding)
7. 08:06 AM - Firewall Insulation (Jaybannist@cs.com)
8. 08:26 AM - Re: Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles (GLENN JOHNSON)
9. 08:29 AM - Re: Firewall Insulation (Bryan Martin)
10. 08:39 AM - Re: Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles ()
11. 08:45 AM - Re: Instrument questions ()
12. 08:53 AM - Re: Instrument questions (MacDonald Doug)
13. 09:19 AM - PROPELLER CLEARANCE (GLJSOJ1)
14. 12:44 PM - Re: Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles (Dave Nixon)
15. 01:15 PM - 601HD new prop time (T McCarthy)
16. 02:13 PM - Re: 601HD new prop time (LarryMcFarland)
17. 02:34 PM - Stratus tach hookup (Bill Steer)
18. 02:56 PM - Re: 601HD new prop time (john H)
19. 02:59 PM - Re: Re: Corvair Crank tap (Bill Naumuk)
20. 03:01 PM - Re: Stratus tach hookup (LarryMcFarland)
21. 04:04 PM - Surprise visit !!! (Roberto Ap. Rodrigues de Brito)
22. 04:32 PM - Re: Stratus tach hookup (Bryan Martin)
23. 05:05 PM - Re: Stratus tach hookup (Bryan Martin)
24. 05:14 PM - Re: Stratus tach hookup (Bryan Martin)
25. 05:16 PM - Re: Instrument questions (Paul Mulwitz)
26. 06:27 PM - Re: Surprise visit !!! (PatrickW)
27. 06:54 PM - airfox 601 (Tracy)
28. 07:23 PM - Re: airfox 601 (Ron Lendon)
29. 07:34 PM - Re: airfox 601 (Darrell Haas)
30. 08:08 PM - Re: Rib Form measurement (Ron Lalonde)
31. 08:23 PM - airfox 601 (Tracy)
32. 08:24 PM - Re: Instrument questions (NYTerminat@aol.com)
33. 09:12 PM - airfox 601 (Tracy)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Horn Clearance? |
I hooked mine up for the first time a few weeks back and it also contacts the lower
flange. I have not resolved it yet, but like Ron, I will do some local area
modification to get it to fit. If I had to do it again, I would rotate the
aileron arm up a bit. If I don't like what I will need to do to modify the
local area, I might just put news arms on, but moved up a bit.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done, engine next.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141467#141467
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I will set the o/b to even and set the i/b up with 20mm gap
Thaks Tracy
also looking for anyone who need builder assitance on there 801,701,601,or
others ,i do sheet metal work ,tube and fabric,basic structure or
complete,located in ne wi, 20.oo an hour shop rate,or we can talk total package
price 920 982 2509
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Horn Clearance? |
Thanks for the replies guys. It's nice to know it's not just me. That's one of
the things I like about this list. It makes me feel like I'm not building in a
vacuum.
Since I'm scratchbuilding and it's simple for me to make more parts, I think
my solution is going to be to drill out the old horn and fabricate a new one to
replace it with. This time I'll change the angle slightly to allow for a few
millimeters clearance. Seems like a picky thing, but in the interest of risk
management it's worth doing right.
Thanks again for the input.
Debo Cox
Nags Head, NC
Scratch-built XL/Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/debo
do not archive
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Jab Dual Throttle Setup issue/oil lines |
John,
I had the same problem. I made a couple of sliders that fit on the
firewall that allow the end of the cable to move up and down with
throttle movement. It's now acceptable.
Also on a different subject, which caused me a lot of lost time, when
you get to the point of making up the oil cooler hoses. I followed the
instructions on the Jabiru web site, except after cutting the hose with
a Dremel cut off wheel I put a hose clamp around the line about 1/8"
back. Then with the with Dremel tool very slightly radius the end so no
burrs are sticking out. Put the threaded end in a vise so that it will
not move when you push on it. Have a 1/4" nut driver handy so that you
can work the hose clamp with one hand while you push with the other.
Push the hose in the 1/8" and while holding, move the hose clamp back
another 1/8" and retighten. A couple of repeats and it is in in a matter
of minutes.
David
Future N601EX
Subject: Zenith-List: Jab Dual Throttle Setup issue
I just got my dual throttle setup installed per the Jabiru USA
instructions and have an issue with the roughness in throttle movement
when the throttles are firewalled. The throttle cable has to bend when
its firewalled as the arms on the bar mounted on the firewall shelf tilt
down in this position and this causes alot of stiffness and roughness
when pushing the throttles that far in. I havent hooked up the middle
cable to the carby yet so this friction is just from the two throttle
cables.
Any suggestions for improving the movement here ? Can I just grease the
cables ?
Thanks,
John Davis
Burnsville, NC
601XL - Jab 3300
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Instrument questions |
Hey guys, I hope I don't start too many debates with this one but...
I have a question about VFR instruments. Specifically about a turn co-ordinator.
I have in my collection of "Stuff" a functional, electric gyro turn co-ordinator.
I also have a simple slip/skid bubble. I am building a CH-701 that will
likely be mostly an around the patch type of plane with the occasional cross
country thown in.
Is it worth the three point something pound weight penalty to install the electric
gyro turn co-ordinator in my panel? Is this even a useful instrument to have
in a strictly VFR plane? I am planning on gong with a glass panel at some
point but that won't be until the plane is flying and the bills are paid down
a bit.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument questions |
Doug, For my money the turn cordinator is not worth the weight penalty on the
701, I've been flying one lately for a few hours with a bubble and that's all
you need. The standard rate turn cordinator is calibrated at a 2 minute turn
and you will find the needle pegged easily on the 701. CERTAINLY there are others
that will disagree but for VFR only it's just extra weight in my opinion.
LOW&SLOW John
>I have a question about VFR instruments. Specifically about a turn co-ordinator.
I have in my collection of "Stuff" a functional, electric gyro turn co-ordinator.
I also have a simple slip/skid bubble. I am building a CH-701 that
will likely be mostly an around the patch type of plane with the occasional cross
country thown in.
>
>Is it worth the three point something pound weight penalty to install the electric
gyro turn co-ordinator in my panel? Is this even a useful instrument to
have in a strictly VFR plane? I am planning on gong with a glass panel at some
point but that won't be until the plane is flying and the bills are paid down
a bit.
>
>Doug MacDonald
>CH-701 Scratch Builder
>NW Ontario, Canada
>
>Do not archive
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Firewall Insulation |
I have Wick's firewall insulation, the kind with quilted aluminum foil on one side
and specular mylar on the other, with ~.5" fiberglass insulation between.
I plan to put it on the engine side of the firewall. Of course, it will have
to be cut and fitted around all that junk on the firewall.
1) What is the best way to stick it to the firewall?
Hi-temp RTV silicone? Pliobond? Hi-temp two-sided tape? Wick's recommends
weatherstrip adhesive.
2) What should be used to seal the seams?
3) What to do at the nose gear strut?
Cover it with a barrel shaped piece? Ignore it?
Advice appreciated. Flame - NOT. :>D
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles |
THANKS FOR THAT HINT. I HAVE BEEN DREADING SAFETING THAT TURN BUCKLE. IF
I HAVE A HARD TIME I'LL DO JUST THAT. THANKS
GLENN
list@matronics.comSubject: Zenith-List: Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles
I saw on the CH601XL plans for the adjustable turnbuckles for the elevator
to mounted at the elevator horn on the dual stick configuration between the
seats. How gross is that? The bottom one would never be accessed without
a 5 year old's size hands in a contortionist position. So I ordered from A
ircraft Spruce the correct threaded turnbuckle eye (P/N AN 170-22RS Cable E
ye) and installed my adjustable elevator turnbuckle just above and slightly
aft of my rear bottom access hole. Not only is it easier to adjust and saf
ety wire (Single Spiral with .041 wire) but I can check cable tension right
there and make adjustments in the future as necessary.
I am using Push/Pull control rods for the ailerons. Each rod has a right h
and and left hand threaded fitting and jam nut for minute adjustment. That
way, if one of my ailerons is out I can bring it back in with minimal effo
rt. Once locked, it will stay for ever.
Hope this helps someone out.
Dave Nixon
CH 601XL N107R
(90% Done / 90% To Go)
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulation |
I put insulation on the cabin side of the firewall. There's less junk
to cut out for and it can't soak up any oil and such in case of a
leak. I stuck it to the firewall with spray-on 3M adhesive and sealed
the seams with aluminum tape. I left the engine side bare galvanized
but put steel baffles around any penetrations and sealed them with Hi-
Temp RTV.
On Oct 24, 2007, at 11:05 AM, Jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
>
> I have Wick's firewall insulation, the kind with quilted aluminum
> foil on one side and specular mylar on the other, with ~.5"
> fiberglass insulation between. I plan to put it on the engine side
> of the firewall. Of course, it will have to be cut and fitted
> around all that junk on the firewall.
>
> 1) What is the best way to stick it to the firewall?
> Hi-temp RTV silicone? Pliobond? Hi-temp two-sided tape?
> Wick's recommends weatherstrip adhesive.
>
> 2) What should be used to seal the seams?
>
> 3) What to do at the nose gear strut?
> Cover it with a barrel shaped piece? Ignore it?
>
> Advice appreciated. Flame - NOT. :>D
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles |
The up elevator cable turnbuckle could also be located back at the elevator horn
under the fiberglass fairing. Most of us have made that fairing removable and
mine is easier to remove than opening up the belly hatch. I prefer to locate
the turnbuckles near the end of cable rather than in the middle where the weight
of the turnbuckle adds more energy to the oscillation of the cable inflight.
It's not a big deal but the added mass of the turnbuckle isbetter supported
near the end of the cable.
Dred
---- GLENN JOHNSON <gljno10@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> THANKS FOR THAT HINT. I HAVE BEEN DREADING SAFETING THAT TURN BUCKLE. IF I
HAVE A HARD TIME I'LL DO JUST THAT. THANKS
>
> GLENN
>
>
> Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:00:38 -0400From: adnasap@bellsouth.netTo: zenith-list@matronics.comSubject:
Zenith-List: Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I saw on the CH601XL plans for the adjustable turnbuckles for the elevator to
mounted at the elevator horn on the dual stick configuration between the seats.
How gross is that? The bottom one would never be accessed without a 5 year
old's size hands in a contortionist position. So I ordered from Aircraft Spruce
the correct threaded turnbuckle eye (P/N AN 170-22RS Cable Eye) and installed
my adjustable elevator turnbuckle just above and slightly aft of my rear bottom
access hole. Not only is it easier to adjust and safety wire (Single Spiral
with .041 wire) but I can check cable tension right there and make adjustments
in the future as necessary.
>
> I am using Push/Pull control rods for the ailerons. Each rod has a right hand
and left hand threaded fitting and jam nut for minute adjustment. That way,
if one of my ailerons is out I can bring it back in with minimal effort. Once
locked, it will stay for ever.
>
> Hope this helps someone out.
>
> Dave Nixon
> CH 601XL N107R
> (90% Done / 90% To Go)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> !
> ilnews
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument questions |
2 minute turn coordinator is overkill for day VFR and you will have that function
later anyway once you install the glass panel unit. I'd skip it to save trouble,
weight, and panel space.
Dred
---- MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I hope I don't start too many debates with this one but...
>
> I have a question about VFR instruments. Specifically about a turn co-ordinator.
I have in my collection of "Stuff" a functional, electric gyro turn co-ordinator.
I also have a simple slip/skid bubble. I am building a CH-701 that
will likely be mostly an around the patch type of plane with the occasional cross
country thown in.
>
> Is it worth the three point something pound weight penalty to install the electric
gyro turn co-ordinator in my panel? Is this even a useful instrument to
have in a strictly VFR plane? I am planning on gong with a glass panel at some
point but that won't be until the plane is flying and the bills are paid down
a bit.
>
> Doug MacDonald
> CH-701 Scratch Builder
> NW Ontario, Canada
>
> Do not archive
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument questions |
That is kind of what I was thinking but wanted the opinion of some pilots with
a bit more time flying than me. I've got about 150hrs in my logbook in a mixture
of LSA types and lighter certifieds. The only place I've personally used
the turn co-ordinator was during simulated instrument time while training for
my Priv Lic.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch builder
NW Ontario, Canada
----- Original Message ----
From: Bolding <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 10:05:50 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Instrument questions
Doug, For my money the turn cordinator is not worth the weight penalty on the
701, I've been flying one lately for a few hours with a bubble and that's all
you need. The standard rate turn cordinator is calibrated at a 2 minute turn
and you will find the needle pegged easily on the 701. CERTAINLY there are others
that will disagree but for VFR only it's just extra weight in my opinion.
LOW&SLOW John
>I have a question about VFR instruments. Specifically about a turn co-ordinator.
I have in my collection of "Stuff" a functional, electric gyro turn co-ordinator.
I also have a simple slip/skid bubble. I am building a CH-701 that
will likely be mostly an around the patch type of plane with the occasional cross
country thown in.
>
>Is it worth the three point something pound weight penalty to install the electric
gyro turn co-ordinator in my panel? Is this even a useful instrument to
have in a strictly VFR plane? I am planning on gong with a glass panel at some
point but that won't be until the plane is flying and the bills are paid down
a bit.
>
>Doug MacDonald
>CH-701 Scratch Builder
>NW Ontario, Canada
>
>Do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | PROPELLER CLEARANCE |
HI ALL
I AM STARTING TO WORK ON THE NOSE/COWLING. I DID NOT GET THE FIREWALL FORWARD KIT
BUT AM SCRATCH BUILDING THIS PART OF MY 601XL I PLAN TO PUT A SPINNER ON
IT, SO HOW MUCH SPACE DO I LEAVE FOR THE SPINNER BEHIND THE HUB OF THE PROPELLER.
I AM USING A WARP DRIVE PROP WITH A 5 INCH EXTENSION.
GLENN
--------
601XL BUILDER
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141527#141527
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Right and Left Hand Turnbuckles |
Regarding the push/pull aileron control rods, and for those that are interested,
I am about 3-4 weeks away from finalizing my wing installation. I am hanging
the engine next week. When I do hang the wings, I will take good pictures of
my push/pull rod for others.
Dave Nixon
90/90
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141562#141562
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 601HD new prop time |
I thought I would throw this out to the list to see what comes back. I
have just over 100 hours on my 601 HD and I would like to upgrade my
66" GSC 3 blade on my 80 HP Rotax 912ULS, It has never tracked correctly
since new and can not easily be readjusted (pitch wise) after the
initial setting. My cruise is about 90MPH at 75%. My goal is to
bring the cruise speed up. I have talked to Warp and Powerfin and only
seem to be more confused. I'm sure others have done this, Thanks in
advance.......
Tom McCarthy
N514TM 601 HD
N414TM Kolb Firestar
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 601HD new prop time |
Hi Tom,
Id recommend you look closely at the Warp Drive ground adjustable
3-blade prop.
For your horsepower, theyll probably recommend a 68 or 70-inch prop. If
in doubt, go to the larger. Adjusting this prop is excellent and
precise. I like the bubble protractor that WD provides for adjustment.
Its accurate and easy to get dead on. Very happy with my 70-inch WD on
my HDS and cruise is very good at 17-degrees.
You should consider the largest spinner available for that prop as well
to reduce drag.
I used a UHS fiberglass spinner from Ontario. Nice installation process too.
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
T McCarthy wrote:
> I thought I would throw this out to the list to see what comes back. I
> have just over 100 hours on my 601 HD and I would like to upgrade my
> 66" GSC 3 blade on my 80 HP Rotax 912ULS, It has never tracked
> correctly since new and can not easily be readjusted (pitch wise)
> after the initial setting. My cruise is about 90MPH at 75%. My goal is
> to bring the cruise speed up. I have talked to Warp and Powerfin and
> only seem to be more confused. I'm sure others have done this, Thanks
> in advance.......
> Tom McCarthy
> N514TM 601 HD
> N414TM Kolb Firestar
> *
>
> *
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Stratus tach hookup |
Ok, I'm stuck. I started my Stratus EA-81 for the first time on
Sunday. All the pressures, temperatures and voltages were as expected.
There were a few glitches, though - the left fuel pump is inop, idle
speed needed to be adjusted, and the tach was reading zero for both
ignitions.
I've traced through the wiring for the tach and it seems to be ok. That
is, the signal is hooked to pin 4, ground to pin 3, and +12 v on pin 2.
I thought the leads from the ignitions might be reversed, so I switched
them, but still get zero. The tach moves off dead bottom (less than
zero) and reads exactly zero when the engine is running, so I'm thinking
I must have the sensor wires hooked to the wrong place. Those wires are
attached to the black lead on each of the coils. Is that the correct
place to hook them up? Is there a signal I can look for with a
voltmeter on each of the signal wires?
Thanks very much for any help or suggestions.
Bill
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 601HD new prop time |
Hi Tom
I have a 601HD with about 270hrs on a 912ul. I have a 70" warp drive tapere
d tip prop and see 100mph cruise (gps) at 5150-5200rpm. I like the warp pro
p but an IVO prop is much easier to adjust and you could eventually change
it to an inflight adjustable and have the best of both worlds, great climb
and better cruise.
John
From: mccarthy@jefnet.com
Subject: Zenith-List: 601HD new prop time
I thought I would throw this out to the list to see
what comes back. I have just over 100 hours on my 601 HD
and I would like to upgrade my 66" GSC 3 blade on my 80 HP Rotax
912ULS, It has never tracked correctly since new and can not easily be
readjusted (pitch wise) after the initial setting. My cruise is
about 90MPH at 75%. My goal is to bring the cruise speed up. I have
talked to Warp and Powerfin and only seem to be more confused. I'm sure
others have done this, Thanks in advance.......
Tom McCarthy
N514TM 601 HD
N414TM Kolb Firestar
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Crank tap |
Ron-
Been there, done that. The lead-ins have to be cleared, and the bolts
aren't hard enough after the crank's been nitrided.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Townville, Pa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lendon" <rlendon@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 11:21 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Corvair Crank tap
>
> Bill, If you have the bolts, cut groove in one and use it as the chaser.
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
> Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
> http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141436#141436
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stratus tach hookup |
Hi Bill,
I've put both tach connections at the "B" ignition switch and ground
back from the instruments.
Using a VDO tach and EIS tach readout as well. I couldn't make the
original UMA tach work and replaced it with
a VDO.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/electrical/full/Ignition-Dual-Dizzy-and-TP4.gif
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Bill Steer wrote:
>
> Ok, I'm stuck. I started my Stratus EA-81 for the first time on
> Sunday. All the pressures, temperatures and voltages were as
> expected. There were a few glitches, though - the left fuel pump is
> inop, idle speed needed to be adjusted, and the tach was reading zero
> for both ignitions.
>
> I've traced through the wiring for the tach and it seems to be ok.
> That is, the signal is hooked to pin 4, ground to pin 3, and +12 v on
> pin 2. I thought the leads from the ignitions might be reversed, so I
> switched them, but still get zero. The tach moves off dead bottom
> (less than zero) and reads exactly zero when the engine is running, so
> I'm thinking I must have the sensor wires hooked to the wrong place.
> Those wires are attached to the black lead on each of the coils. Is
> that the correct place to hook them up? Is there a signal I can look
> for with a voltmeter on each of the signal wires?
>
> Thanks very much for any help or suggestions.
>
> Bill
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Surprise visit !!! |
Hi Guys,
I'd like to thank Sebastien Heintz's surprise visit here (Airfox
Ultraleves) in Atibaia - S=E3o Paulo - Brazil.
It has been a great pleasure to have had him here among us in our II
Workshop and to fly my plane.
See the pictures in check by yourself.
http://www.airfox.com.br/br/
http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/xl/update.html
http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/7updates.html
Rgds,
Roberto Brito.
Zodiac XL 601-Jab 3300
Woodcomp 3300 - Enigma.
Cruise speed / 3000rpm / 6000ft 140 mp/h
Stall speed flap down 38/39 mp/h
Rate of climb - 1 person - 24 gallons - 1200fpm
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stratus tach hookup |
I'm using the VDO tach from Zenith. I have a "+" terminal on the
tach which is hooked to the voltage from the ignition switch, A "-"
terminal which is grounded and an "S" terminal which is hooked to the
"-" wire on the coil. I don't recall what color the wire on the coil
is but it is the wire that isn't hooked to the ignition switch.
=EF=BC
On Oct 24, 2007, at 5:33 PM, Bill Steer wrote:
>
> Ok, I'm stuck. I started my Stratus EA-81 for the first time on
> Sunday. All the pressures, temperatures and voltages were as
> expected. There were a few glitches, though - the left fuel pump
> is inop, idle speed needed to be adjusted, and the tach was reading
> zero for both ignitions.
>
> I've traced through the wiring for the tach and it seems to be ok.
> That is, the signal is hooked to pin 4, ground to pin 3, and +12 v
> on pin 2. I thought the leads from the ignitions might be
> reversed, so I switched them, but still get zero. The tach moves
> off dead bottom (less than zero) and reads exactly zero when the
> engine is running, so I'm thinking I must have the sensor wires
> hooked to the wrong place. Those wires are attached to the black
> lead on each of the coils. Is that the correct place to hook them
> up? Is there a signal I can look for with a voltmeter on each of
> the signal wires?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stratus tach hookup |
Apple-Mail-10-214999670--
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stratus tach hookup |
I'm using the VDO tach from Zenith. I have a "+" terminal on the
tach which is hooked to the voltage from the ignition switch, A "-"
terminal which is grounded and an "S" terminal which is hooked to the
"-" wire on the coil. I don't recall what color the wire on the coil
is but it is the wire that isn't hooked to the ignition switch.
>
> Ok, I'm stuck. I started my Stratus EA-81 for the first time on
> Sunday. All the pressures, temperatures and voltages were as
> expected. There were a few glitches, though - the left fuel pump
> is inop, idle speed needed to be adjusted, and the tach was reading
> zero for both ignitions.
>
> I've traced through the wiring for the tach and it seems to be ok.
> That is, the signal is hooked to pin 4, ground to pin 3, and +12 v
> on pin 2. I thought the leads from the ignitions might be
> reversed, so I switched them, but still get zero. The tach moves
> off dead bottom (less than zero) and reads exactly zero when the
> engine is running, so I'm thinking I must have the sensor wires
> hooked to the wrong place. Those wires are attached to the black
> lead on each of the coils. Is that the correct place to hook them
> up? Is there a signal I can look for with a voltmeter on each of
> the signal wires?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument questions |
Hi Doug,
I wouldn't intentionally fly in a plane with no gyro
instruments. This is because the risk of inadvertently getting into
IMC or VMC that doesn't give any outside reference for flying the
plane is great.
I could easily do a 180 with just a turn coordinator and perhaps an
airspeed indicator and altimeter. If you can't do that, then I
suggest you hire an instructor to train you in that little trick. It
could easily save your life.
Of course it would be easier to use an EFIS than the minimal partial
panel described above. Still, that calls for some dual instruction
under the hood to get the basic procedures down.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 07:06 AM 10/24/2007, you wrote:
>
>Hey guys, I hope I don't start too many debates with this one but...
>
>I have a question about VFR instruments. Specifically about a turn
>co-ordinator. I have in my collection of "Stuff" a functional,
>electric gyro turn co-ordinator. I also have a simple slip/skid
>bubble. I am building a CH-701 that will likely be mostly an around
>the patch type of plane with the occasional cross country thown in.
>
>Is it worth the three point something pound weight penalty to
>install the electric gyro turn co-ordinator in my panel? Is this
>even a useful instrument to have in a strictly VFR plane? I am
>planning on gong with a glass panel at some point but that won't be
>until the plane is flying and the bills are paid down a bit.
>
>Doug MacDonald
>CH-701 Scratch Builder
>NW Ontario, Canada
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Surprise visit !!! |
Beautiful job. Well done!
Nice web site too. Video and music was also well done.
Patrick
XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141616#141616
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
has anyone seen this aircraft?
wanted to build one that has a better looking turtle deck like this,anyone want
one let me know and we could talk about building one .
sure look better than the bubble
http://www.airfox.com.br/br/sobre.asp
Tracy
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I told Roberto when I saw him at SnF this year that I was going to steal his design.
I haven't given it much thought since but will consider making it out of
metal to that design. You wanna draw it up?
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141627#141627
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Tracy
I also liked it and wrote to him. Real nice guy but said his shop was too
small and too busy to make parts and sell them so a person would have to
design and make it himself. I would love to make my plane the same.
Darrell Haas
601 XL dreaming
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy" <pbuttles@charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: airfox 601
>
> has anyone seen this aircraft?
> wanted to build one that has a better looking turtle deck like this,anyone
> want one let me know and we could talk about building one .
> sure look better than the bubble
> http://www.airfox.com.br/br/sobre.asp
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rib Form measurement |
Hi Gang
The cutout detail (6W6)of the top and bottom cutout on the rib blanks (ex
cept rib 9) is 10 mm wide. Should that not read 5 mm??
I have made the rib blanks and am just about to make the cutout for the spa
r doublers on the top and bottom.
. Since the spar doublers are only 5mm thick, why would the cutout be 10 mm
??
Is this a misprint??
Thanks for your help in advance.
Ron
601XL
.
_________________________________________________________________
Are you ready for Windows Live Messenger Beta 8.5 ? Get the latest for free
today!
http://entertainment.sympatico.msn.ca/WindowsLiveMessenger
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
the problem with ding it all in meatl is all the compound curves ,its much easier
to do in compocite.
the only thing i dont like is the lack of a rollover protction like they have in
rvs,iver the rv-10 is half composite.
also have you seen the Sport Cruiser,it has a lot differnt fear fuse with differnet
rudder and elvator,more rounded fuse and much better looking vert stab and
rudder.
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument questions |
Doug
I installed one in mine, found it quite useful especially if you have no
other reference. In a pinch you could get out of some inadvertent IFR or even
handy at night with no reference to horizon. I found it quite useful for those
hazy days where the horizon blends in with the haze. I have since pulled it
out and installed a Century 1 autopilot in its place. You could place it in the
panel so that when go with a glass panel like Dynon, it will fit in the
hole.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX ? CH701 / 912S
In a message dated 10/24/2007 10:07:43 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dougsnash@yahoo.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: MacDonald Doug <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
Hey guys, I hope I don't start too many debates with this one but...
I have a question about VFR instruments. Specifically about a turn
co-ordinator. I have in my collection of "Stuff" a functional, electric gyro
turn
co-ordinator. I also have a simple slip/skid bubble. I am building a CH-701
that will likely be mostly an around the patch type of plane with the
occasional cross country thown in.
Is it worth the three point something pound weight penalty to install the
electric gyro turn co-ordinator in my panel? Is this even a useful instrument
to have in a strictly VFR plane? I am planning on gong with a glass panel at
some point but that won't be until the plane is flying and the bills are
paid down a bit.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
the problem with doing it all in metal is all the compound curves ,its much
easier to do in composite.
the only thing I dont like is the lack of a rollover protection, like they have
in
rvs,even the rv-10 is half composite.
also have you seen the Sport Cruiser,it has a lot different fear fuse with
different rudder and elevator,more rounded fuse and much better looking vert stab
and rudder.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|