Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:02 AM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
2. 03:03 AM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
3. 03:27 AM - Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc (rroberts)
4. 04:09 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: Turtle Deck (Aaron Gustafson)
5. 04:53 AM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (David Downey)
6. 05:04 AM - Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul (kmccune)
7. 05:07 AM - Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Geoff Heap)
8. 05:09 AM - Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Geoff Heap)
9. 05:16 AM - Re: Elevator Control Friction (Jim Hoak)
10. 07:08 AM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
11. 07:12 AM - Re: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
12. 07:33 AM - Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul (MacDonald Doug)
13. 07:42 AM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Dave Austin)
14. 08:04 AM - Re: Happy Thanksgiving - It's a Bird! (Ron Lendon)
15. 08:18 AM - hds drawing (601corvair)
16. 08:51 AM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Bryan Martin)
17. 08:53 AM - Re: hds drawing (LarryMcFarland)
18. 09:38 AM - Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc (ablebob)
19. 10:44 AM - Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Edward Moody II)
20. 10:47 AM - Re: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Edward Moody II)
21. 10:55 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: Turtle Deck (Edward Moody II)
22. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Edward Moody II)
23. 11:30 AM - Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul (kmccune)
24. 11:32 AM - Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul (kmccune)
25. 11:40 AM - Re: Elevator Control Friction - NLG steering friction. (Ian McClelland)
26. 12:01 PM - 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question (lwhitlow)
27. 01:33 PM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Dave Austin)
28. 02:32 PM - Re: Happy Thanksgiving - It's a Bird! (Art Olechowski)
29. 03:32 PM - Re: Rudder Nose Skin (Art Olechowski)
30. 03:40 PM - Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc (Ron Lalonde)
31. 06:01 PM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Jeff)
32. 06:10 PM - Fuel sender gasket (lwinger)
33. 06:35 PM - Digital Level (ernie)
34. 06:35 PM - AOA port location (lwinger)
35. 06:39 PM - Re: Fuel sender gasket (dgardea(at)gmail.com)
36. 07:43 PM - .093 vs .125 Angle (Art Olechowski)
37. 07:45 PM - Kiev prop (Canatukker)
38. 07:46 PM - Re: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Paul Mulwitz)
39. 07:53 PM - Re: 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question (Paul Mulwitz)
40. 07:58 PM - Re: Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul (MacDonald Doug)
41. 08:01 PM - Re: .093 vs .125 Angle (SABorns@aol.com)
42. 08:10 PM - Re: .093 vs .125 Angle (Bolding)
43. 08:15 PM - Re: Fuel sender gasket (Ron Lendon)
44. 08:21 PM - Re: 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question (lwhitlow)
45. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question (Paul Mulwitz)
46. 08:58 PM - Re: .093 vs .125 Angle (T. Graziano)
47. 09:53 PM - Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc (RayStL)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
Unless I am mistaken ALL zenith rod ends are right hand threads???? It's
been a year since I rigged up the 601xl but I will check this. I think they do
this so they can't unscrew. From what I remember the only adjustments are in
the turn buckles. If you have one left hand thread and one right they can come
apart and you wouldn't know it until (In terms of rigging and cable tension)
they came apart. Also because they are right hand thread you don't have to
safety wire them. If you have left and right you will have to safety wire them
and that could be a pain.
If I am wrong about this someone please speak up.
Jeff
In a message dated 11/22/2007 10:41:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
adnasap@bellsouth.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Nixon" <adnasap@bellsouth.net>
I am just about 3 weeks away from hanging the wings, and when I do, it will
be with an aileron push rod system. I already have the rod and ends. I had
two left hand thread and two right hand thread rod ends milled for 1/4"
bolts. if anyone is interested, I can send pictures of the installation. I am
just finishing up the engine installation. then I can finish the canopy and
finally install the wings. Then call for Airworthiness inspection. Should be
done by the end of the year, if progress continues at the current pace.
Dave Nixon
CH601XL Jabiru 3300
90% done / 90% To Go
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148017#148017
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
Forget that last post it is early and I couldn't see the complete subject
line.
In a message dated 11/22/2007 10:41:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
adnasap@bellsouth.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Nixon" <adnasap@bellsouth.net>
I am just about 3 weeks away from hanging the wings, and when I do, it will
be with an aileron push rod system. I already have the rod and ends. I had
two left hand thread and two right hand thread rod ends milled for 1/4"
bolts. if anyone is interested, I can send pictures of the installation. I am
just finishing up the engine installation. then I can finish the canopy and
finally install the wings. Then call for Airworthiness inspection. Should be
done by the end of the year, if progress continues at the current pace.
Dave Nixon
CH601XL Jabiru 3300
90% done / 90% To Go
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148017#148017
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
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| Subject: | Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc |
Congrats Ray! Keep us posted on that 1.3L. I too have the IVO inflight adjustable
but I used the ground adjustable hub for my first flight setting the prop
at 10.5 degrees. Max RPM was about 5400....
Can you send me a photo of how you mounted your hub brushes?
AGAIN CONGRATS [Exclamation] [Exclamation]
Rick
--------
Low & Slow
Rick
www.n701rr.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148035#148035
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: Turtle Deck |
I have called that part the "boot cowl".
Aaron G. do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
If you truly have short enough engagement to allow useful adjustment, then R/H
to R/H can come loose - the one end simply backs down in to the other and separates.
Safety everything! The only reason for R/H - L/H over R/H - R/H (in my
opinion) is that you do not have to disassemble to make adjustments.
Afterfxllc@aol.com wrote: Unless I am mistaken ALL zenith rod ends are right
hand threads???? It's been a year since I rigged up the 601xl but I will check
this. I think they do this so they can't unscrew. From what I remember the
only adjustments are in the turn buckles. If you have one left hand thread
and one right they can come apart and you wouldn't know it until (In terms of
rigging and cable tension) they came apart. Also because they are right hand
thread you don't have to safety wire them. If you have left and right you will
have to safety wire them and that could be a pain.
If I am wrong about this someone please speak up.
Jeff
In a message dated 11/22/2007 10:41:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, adnasap@bellsouth.net
writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Dave Nixon" <adnasap@bellsouth.net>
I am just about 3 weeks away from hanging the wings, and when I do, it will
be with an aileron push rod system. I already have the rod and ends. I had
two left hand thread and two right hand thread rod ends milled for 1/4" bolts.
if anyone is interested, I can send pictures of the installation. I
am just finishing up the engine installation. then I can finish the canopy
and finally install the wings. Then call for Airworthiness inspection.
Should be done by the end of the year, if progress continues at the current
pace.
Dave Nixon
CH601XL Jabiru 3300
90% done / 90% To Go
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148017#148017
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Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
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| Subject: | Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul |
Hey you guys in MN, where do you get your Al from?
Thanks
Kevin
--------
Kevin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148041#148041
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
As usual everyone came through. Thanks for the help. This is why I send Matt Draille
60 bucks every year. I have to go with the majority. I'm sure I wont regret
having a better electrical system.
Now the question becomes. How close can I have these two cables to each other?
I'm assuming it would be a problem running them side by side....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148043#148043
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
Thanks Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148044#148044
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Control Friction |
Dave & Listers,
Traditionally fairleads may change the direction of cable travel no more
than 3 degrees. All cables and/or the fairleads will eventually wear!
There are many manufactured, certificated airplanes that use fairleads
with the original cables lasting many years. Look at the Piper J-3.
Pulleys will almost always be the best solution, but usually more
comlicated and more expensive!
All that being said, my 601HD ( which may have slightly different cable
routing than either the 701, 801 or the 601XL ) now has 565 hours with
no noticable wear yet! I used only fairleads, no pulleys.
My Midget Mustang I of many years ago called for the elevator cable to
go around a small pulley on the firewall and then pass under the main
spar center section and ( saw ) on a micarta fairlead on it's path back
to the elevator. I didn't like that then so I designed a "pushrod" to go
to just aft of the cockpit where it connected to a bellcrank ( again my
design ) and then a straight run of cables to the elevator. This worked
fine for hundreds of hours. Of course the Dave Long designed MM I was
designed as a racer with limited life not as a normal everyday use
airplane.
The nice thing about "Experimental" airplanes ( at least in the U.S. )
is that you can do pretty much what you want. Someone recently mentioned
using pushrods for the ailerons on a 601XL. My main concern there would
be vertical and horizontal vibration movement of the pushrods near
midspan. Someone stated that they would be about 8 feet long. Many other
airplanes have used pushrod of that length or longer with no major
problems. The pushrod material, diameter and stiffness must be
calculated so that it meets all requirements. If in doubt, you might
want to seek the help of an engineer, or some experienced person. Most
homebuilders do tend to "overkill" the situation. Be carefull!
Do not archive.
JIm Hoak - 601HD - Rotax 912UL - 565 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Thompson
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Elevator Control Friction
Looking for outlook and opinions.
For the last year or so as I pour over my 601ZL plans, I have wondered
about the nylon fairleads and control cables "bending" and rubbing
through them. I'm by no means any kind of engineer. In fact, I'm not
even building yet. However, it seems to me that a better way would be to
use a pulley to "bend" or re-route the cables to the required positions.
Any other airframe plans that I've studied uses pulleys rather than
nylon fairleads.
Guys that have some hours on their airframe:
Do you see any notable wear on the nylon fairleads? Specifically, the
rudder fairlead and upper elevator fairlead attached to 6B5-2 on page
6-B-23 of the plans.
I have not seen the actual cables installed in an airframe so I might
be looking for troubles that are not there. The link to the pulley
modification on previous links looks interesting and is something like I
had envisioned. Would pulleys be overkill? Am I trying to re-invent a
wheel that rolls just fine?
What are your opinions?
Dave Thompson
Corvair engine in parts & rudder workshop
No money to build.Yet
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
If you cut the rods to the correct length they can't back out. They come
within a 1/16 if an inch of bottoming out so even if it did come loose it would
bottom the other end and still be safe. No need to safety unless you cut the
threaded rods too short. On RH RH only.
In a message dated 11/23/2007 7:53:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
planecrazydld@yahoo.com writes:
If you truly have short enough engagement to allow useful adjustment, then
R/H to R/H can come loose - the one end simply backs down in to the other and
separates. Safety everything! The only reason for R/H - L/H over R/H - R/H
(in my opinion) is that you do not have to disassemble to make adjustments.
Afterfxllc@aol.com wrote:
Unless I am mistaken ALL zenith rod ends are right hand threads???? It's
been a year since I rigged up the 601xl but I will check this. I think they do
this so they can't unscrew. From what I remember the only adjustments are in
the turn buckles. If you have one left hand thread and one right they can come
apart and you wouldn't know it until (In terms of rigging and cable tension)
they came apart. Also because they are right hand thread you don't have to
safety wire them. If you have left and right you will have to safety wire them
and that could be a pain.
If I am wrong about this someone please speak up.
Jeff
In a message dated 11/22/2007 10:41:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
adnasap@bellsouth.net writes:
I am just about 3 weeks away from hanging the wings, and when I do, it will
be with an aileron push rod system. I already have the rod and ends. I had
two left hand thread and two right hand thread rod ends milled for 1/4"
bolts. if anyone is interested, I can send pictures of the installation. I am
just finishing up the engine installation. then I can finish the canopy and
finally install the wings. Then call for Airworthiness inspection. Should be
done by the end of the year, if progress continues at the current pace.
Dave Nixon
CH601XL Jabiru 3300
90% done / 90% To Go
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148017#148017
_http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List_
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
I run both of them on the right side and tuck them into the trim below the
canopy arm. Then run the ground to the engine mount and then ground the mount
to the engine. I also run the starter relay on the inside of the firewall so
the only high voltage that passes thru the firewall is when the starter is
engaged.
Jeff
In a message dated 11/23/2007 8:08:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
stol10@comcast.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
As usual everyone came through. Thanks for the help. This is why I send Matt
Draille 60 bucks every year. I have to go with the majority. I'm sure I wont
regret having a better electrical system.
Now the question becomes. How close can I have these two cables to each
other? I'm assuming it would be a problem running them side by side....Geoff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148043#148043
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul |
Hey Kevin, although I'm not quite in MN, I get all of
my supplies delivered to MN and drive accross the
border to pick them up.
I have ordered most of my aluminum from Aircraft
Spruce and Specialty. Compair that to Wick's though
because some of their aluminum is cheaper.
Doug MacDonald
Fort Frances, ON, Canada
CH-701 Scratch Builder
Do not Archive
--- kmccune <kmccune@somtel.net> wrote:
> <kmccune@somtel.net>
>
> Hey you guys in MN, where do you get your Al from?
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
>
> --------
> Kevin
>
Be a better pen pal.
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
You would not get away with not safetying rod ends up here in Canada.
The Spruce catalog has a diagram showing the acceptable methods.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
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| Subject: | Re: Happy Thanksgiving - It's a Bird! |
Happy belated Thanksgiving and good luck with the flight testing. I have learned
a great deal watching your progress, keep posting.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148069#148069
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Does anyone have a moderate to high resolution drawing image of an HDS? I am
playing with photoshop and paint schemes and am assessing images for a place to
start, thanks phill
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
As I recall, all the Rod ends on my kit are installed with jam nuts to
preventing them from loosening.
Dave Austin wrote:
> You would not get away with not safetying rod ends up here in Canada.
> The Spruce catalog has a diagram showing the acceptable methods.
> Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
>
--
Bryan Martin
Zenith 601XL N61BM
Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive
Do Not Archive
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Hi Phil,
The attached *.jpg image is what I began with and it helped a lot, but
I finally used a digital image to "do a final revised paint on my HDS"
in Photo Shop.
It's a neat program and it allows you to change and save back copies
that you can
compare until you get comfortable with what you're after.
photoshop and then final paint shown in link below.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601-Bayou-Blue-Idaho-Snow-n.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
601corvair wrote:
> Does anyone have a moderate to high resolution drawing image of an
> HDS? I am
> playing with photoshop and paint schemes and am assessing images for
> a place to
> start, thanks phill
>
>
> *
>
> *
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| Subject: | Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc |
Congrats on your new baby!. Looks real sharp!
I am about 1000 km east of you and just ordered the 701 plans to see if buying
the kit or finding the materials is the best way to go.
Keep us posted.
Bob Stacey
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148084#148084
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
The rivets ought to do the job. To test whether or not you have
continuity through the airframe, use a charged battery and a long jumper
wire (14 - 16 AWG). Clip the jumper wire to the formed head of a rivet
the rear of the fuselage. Connect the other end of the wire to one lead
of a multimeter and check continuity to some part of the airframe near
the firewall. If you don't have decent continuity, you may have to
install a ground buss back in the aft section and run a heavy wire (12 -
14 AWG) all the way back to the firewall area ground buss.
All my airframe parts have been either primed or primed and painted as I
assembled the plane and I have continuity through out my airframe so I
doubt that you'll have a problem.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Heap
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 3:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed
airframe.
I could use some advice or comment. Over the years, as I built my
airframe I primed everything just before riveting/assembly. With the
knowledge I have now that seems dumb. With the battery behind the
passenger seat how can I ground it back there. All airframe parts are
isolated from each other electrically. Will the rivets help me out?
Would they give me the continuity I need? Do I need to run a ground
wire all the way back to the engine block?
Lost in Lindenwold
912/dynon 180/icom-a210/garmin 296.
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--
11/23/2007 9:19 AM
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
Good for lights..... not good for the strobes, strobe driver, or
electrical motors. Those tend to be electrically noisy and should have a
dedicted shielded ground wire with the shield grounded at one end as
near the engine as possible.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Juhl
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 4:54 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed
airframe.
The idea of running two cables and having a common ground point is a
good one. That said, the large number of rivets used in your plane's
construction should provide ample continuity for ground return for
lights, strobes, etc.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147976#147976
--
11/23/2007 9:19 AM
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: Turtle Deck |
We call it the foreskin. When we need to remove it for work we call a
Rabbi.
Dred
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron Gustafson
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 6:08 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Zenith-List Digest: Turtle Deck
I have called that part the "boot cowl".
Aaron G. do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
Might be good to run them as a twisted pair. Electronic gurus on the
list can confirm or correct.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Heap
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 7:06 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed
airframe.
As usual everyone came through. Thanks for the help. This is why I
send Matt Draille 60 bucks every year. I have to go with the majority.
I'm sure I wont regret having a better electrical system.
Now the question becomes. How close can I have these two cables to
each other? I'm assuming it would be a problem running them side by
side....Geoff
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul |
Thanks for the reply, I've checked out Aircraft Spruce and Wicks, but there is
a lot of metal fabrication in the the area so there has to be a local source.
What are they getting for shipping Al sheets?
Kevin
--------
Kevin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148100#148100
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul |
Hey I almost forgot, your in Fort Frances right?
Kevin
--------
Kevin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148102#148102
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Control Friction - NLG steering friction. |
I agree with the advice to check for NLG steering friction with the nose
gear fully extended, prior to first flight. My friend has scare in his 701
due to friction being so high with weight off the nose gear and the
centering block engaged that it was preventing adequate rudder control!
Ian McClelland
601XL scratch builder.
Working on Fuselage.
10:58 p.m.
Message 26
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| Subject: | 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question |
I'm stumped and the drawings /photo guide aren't as clear to me as I would like.SOOOOOOO
Here's the question
Page 5 of the photo guide WING JIG REF 6-B-14
I'm trying to drill the holes in the spar insert but I'm not quite sure where they
go
Looking at the little drawing in the upper Right of page 5 I that one of the holes
is 132mm from the extrusion Is this the bottom hole or the top??
Once I establish that I can use the Pic at the bottom to find the other hole
And then the second question is After I get done building this jig, When is it
used?? I see no other mention of it in the photo guide after you make it??
Or do you just use it to check the spar to rear channel distance as you go along
Thanks
Larry Whitlow
601XL/Jabiru 3300 50% done 80% to go, Engine due in February
One of the last kits before the CNC kits started coming out
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148108#148108
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
Jam nuts are standard. Still have to safety wire.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
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| Subject: | Re: Happy Thanksgiving - It's a Bird! |
Congrats Scott, keep us posted on how the first flight goes.
Art
--- Scott Laughlin <cookwithgas@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> Happy Thanksgiving Everyone.
>
> Besides a beautiful wife and some great kids I now have something else to be
thankful for. As
> of yesterday, the FAA considers N5SL an airworthy vehicle. The certificate arrived
along with
> the first day of snow and winter. First flight will depend on how the weather
shapes up in the
> coming days.
>
> Have a great day,
>
> Scott Laughlin
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/
> 601XL/Corvair
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE!
> http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_112007
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Nose Skin |
Terry,
Good idea thanks for your input I believe Larry M. was refering to the same type
of mod.
Not sure if I'll mod or just build a new rib and shift it forward slightly to close
the gap.
Art
--- Terry Turnquist <ter_turn@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Art, the easiest thing might be a couple of -90 degree bent strips about 1/2
inch
> wide & taped to each rib tip where needed. Move the strips (shims) around until
satisfactory
> then clamp & drill the top half through the top of the rib and put one A4 rivet
through the
> shims on top of each rib. Clear as mud?
>
> Terry
>
> Olechowski
>
> Paul,
> I think I'll build me a new one and back drill through the existing skin holes
to make it right.
> I agree probably does not matter either way.
>
> do not archive
> Art
>
> --- Paul Riedlinger wrote:
>
> >
> > I don't think that is an issue at all. No amount of wind force is
> > going to make that skin move.
> >
> > I would just leave it.
> >
> > On Nov 20, 2007 8:15 PM, Art Olechowski wrote:
> > >
> > > I think my post was not clear enough. The gap I've experienced is in between
the tip of the
> > upper
> > > and lower nose ribs and the LE of the skin. If you look cross sectionally
down the leading
> > edge
> > > of the nose skin light can be seen between the apex of both rib tips and
the nose skin. I'm
> > not
> > > seeing a how shim can work in this senario since the tip of the rib flange
is tapered at the
> > nose
> > > and no rivets exist in that area to fasten the shim too?
> > >
> > > --- Paul Riedlinger wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Art:
> > > >
> > > > I had the opposite problem on one of my wings. The inboard 4 ribs for
> > > > the wing walk were centered on the top of the skin but when I flipped
> > > > the wing over, the ribs were recessed by about 3/32" so that when
> > > > rivitted, the skin would be pulled concave. I added a small shim
> > > > between the rib and the skin to correct the issue and make it look
> > > > better. Drove me crazy. I must have gotten a Monday AM 601XL wing
> > > > kit as the top rear skins were drilled wrong as well.
> > > >
> > > > Oh well, nothing a little fiddling cant fix!
> > > >
> > > > On Nov 20, 2007 5:54 PM, LarryMcFarland wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Art,
> > > > > If you have an inability to pull a cleco down to close a gap without
> > > > > getting a dimple, a shim can be made the thickness
> > > > > you need and taped in place. If I understood your problem, the thin
> > > > > punched shim would hold the material
> > > > > where you want without that dented look that some pulled rivets cause
> > > > > for uneven surfaces.
> > > > >
> > > > > Larry
> > > > > do not archive
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Larry,
> > > > > > Can you elaborate some, the shims would attach to which holes? the
rib flange holes
> aft
> > of
> > > > the
> > > > > > spar?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Art
> > > > > > --- LarryMcFarland wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Art,
> > > > > >> One solution is pre-drilled shims taped in place before assembly.
> > > > > >> Been there and done that on rib height, but you have to be careful
and
> > > > > >> cleco check the result.
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Art Olechowski wrote:
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>>
> > > > > >>> He all I have a dilemma with my nose skin on the rudder. When I
drilled the holes
> > through
> > > > > >>>
> > > > > >> spar
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>> and nose skin I confirmed that both nose rib tips were flush with
inside of the
> skin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
Message 30
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| Subject: | C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc |
Where in New Brunswick?? What airport??
I am in NS and would really like to see your 701 sometime. Especially that
wing!!
What HP does the Suzuki put out...would it be good for a 601XL.
Good luck with your flying....and yup....the weather is going to be no good
for flying for a while
Ron
> Subject: Zenith-List: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 c
c> From: ray.stlaurent@vsea.com> Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2007 18:28:05 -0800> To:
ray.stlaurent@vsea.com>> > C-GJRL finally flew yesterday. It has in-flight
adjustable prop. I had done a crow hop on Sunday with the prop at min pitch
and flaps up. That required full back stick to flare with no margin. The m
in pitch was way too fine the engine was not being loaded at all a
nd the plane barely hauled itself off the ground.> > For the flight yesterd
ay, I set the pitch to midway and took off with half flaps (nominally 15 de
grees). That was a much better setting. It climbed well. > > I was pleased
with the lightness of the controls and their balance. Used half flaps for l
anding as recommend for the Pegastol wing. The landing was easily controlla
ble with plenty of stick margin on the flare. > > The aircraft trimmed way
too nose down even with max aft trim. It is true that I was near the forwar
d C of G and the forward limit for the Pegastol is set at 10% of Mean Aerod
ynamic Chord as opposed the standard 701 which is a 20%.> > Regardless I wi
ll be doing the elevator edge bend removal that others have found useful in
these situations.> > I am waiting for better weather to fly again. I am in
New Brunswick, Canada which had freezing rain today and snow flurries fore
cast for tomorrow. Sigh.> > -- Ray> > --------> Ray St-Laurent> 701/Pegasto
l wings/Suzuki engine> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forum
s.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148010#148010> > > > > Attachments: > > h
========================> _
======================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Send a smile, make someone laugh, have some fun! Start now!
http://www.freemessengeremoticons.ca/?icid=EMENCA122
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
Jam nuts are standard. Still have to safety wire.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Dave,
I just installed the aileron control rod on my right HD wing. The
control rod is threaded the entire length. The rod end bearings appear to
be MS21153. The bearing is a universal joint of sorts with a witness hole.
A jam nut came with the rod for each bearing end. I can't imagine how they
would be safetied. Can you explain?
Jeff Davidson
Message 32
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| Subject: | Fuel sender gasket |
My VDO fuel sender from ZAC came with a sealed bag of parts, which included the
mounting ring, paper washers, screws and a rubber gasket. An extra gasket, identical
to the one in the bag, was also included in the box. Is that just a
replacement? The photo guide and plans only show one rubber gasket, and that
is how I installed it.
I'm installing the fuel sender on the end of the tanks, per the plans. No mention
was made of any kind of sealant.
Any of you guys who are already flying with a similar configuration (end mount,
no sealant) could really help me out by sharing your experiences re: leaks or
no leaks.
Thanks.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL/Corvair from scratch
Control surfaces complete
Wings nearly ready to close
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148128#148128
Message 33
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Hi list.
I am currently building the right wing. Picked up a 17 dollar torpedo
digital level on sale at sears today.
It was a great help since I have cut four of the 6-b-14 templates and
not a one them was the same as the next.
Once I check it with the level I was at 81 degree's, so I was on the
right road but for short money the piece of mind was worth it.
Thanks for all the help, hope this helps some one down the road.
E.
Message 34
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| Subject: | AOA port location |
Does anyone who is building or flying the 601XL have the Angle of Attack system
from Advanced Flight Systems? I'm getting ready to install it, and would appreciate
hearing thoughts on port location.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL/Corvair from scratch
Control surfaces complete
Wings nearly ready to close
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148129#148129
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender gasket |
Larry,
Upon reading some advice posted by others on the list, I used only one of the rubber
gaskets on the external surface of the fuel tank. When mounting the sender
to the tank, I liberally applied fuel lube to the outside of the perimeter
of the hole, to the both sides of the rubber gasket, and to each of the screws.
The excess is mostly easy to wipe off after you compress the gasket with the
screws (don't overtighten) but you may want to wear some latex gloves when applying
the fuel lube. The fuel lube is available from Aircraft Spruce under the
name EZ Turn, but a search there for fuel lube works.
Regards,
Dave Gardea
601XL - finishing wings
do not archive
--------
Dave Gardea
601XL - Corvair
working on wings
http://home.comcast.net/~davegardea/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148130#148130
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p6140001_140.jpg
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| Subject: | .093 vs .125 Angle |
Hey all you scratch builders have any of you calculated the weight increase when
using the .125
3/4" X 3/4" angle opposed to the kit supplied .093 thickness? I imagine the amount
is small but it
does reduce your useful load. Does anyone know what the per foot weight of .093
is? If not could
one of the kit builders measure and weigh a piece, then post it for archiving?
Thanks,
Art
Message 37
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List I would like to hear from anybody that has some input or experience with a
Kiev prop on a Zodiac 601 912ul thanks Ron Smit :)
--------
Have fun fly save
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148136#148136
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
Hi Geoff & Ed,
I guess it was me you refer to, Ed . . . :-) . . .
No, I would not suggest twisting the battery cables. These are the
extra heavy gauge wires needed to supply the 100 or so amps to the
starter for a few seconds at a time. Twisting would be appropriate
if they were high frequence signal wires, but this is a high current
DC application.
You can probably run the wires together to the engine compartment if
you like. The only caveat is you need to make sure the insulation is
not broken so a short can occur. You will probably ground the
aluminum in the airplane anyway (connect to the negative battery
contact) so the only real critical insulation is on the positive lead cable.
If you prefer to run them separately then that is fine too.
One more comment. Several guys seem to think the engine mount is a
good place to form your single ground point for the whole
plane. This means the place the negative battery lead is attached
and as many other negative lead wires as you connect to
ground. Actually, I would prefer some piece of copper or aluminum
(bus bar?) for this purpose. The steel engine mount is probably the
worst electrical conductor in the whole plane, and it would be better
to use a good conductor for this purpose.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 10:56 AM 11/23/2007, you wrote:
>Might be good to run them as a twisted pair. Electronic gurus on the
>list can confirm or correct.
>
>Dred
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:stol10@comcast.net>Geoff Heap
>To: <mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>zenith-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 7:06 AM
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a
>primed airframe.
>
><<mailto:stol10@comcast.net>stol10@comcast.net>
>
>As usual everyone came through. Thanks for the help. This is why I
>send Matt Draille 60 bucks every year. I have to go with the
>majority. I'm sure I wont regret having a better electrical system.
> Now the question becomes. How close can I have these two cables
> to each other? I'm assuming it would be a problem running them side
> by side....Geoff
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question |
Hi Larry,
The wing jigs are used to fix the location of the rear wing attach
points. They also play a roll in getting the spar carry-through
fixed at the correct angle to the longerons. They need to be made to
match the actual distance on your wings. It doesn't really matter
too much where the holes are drilled. You just need to make sure the
front part fits in same place the wing spars will eventually go into
the spar carry-through. The jig can stick out nearly any distance
from the carry-through so long as the rear feature still makes
contact with the rear wing attach point. You can wait to drill the
holes in the main spar part until you actually need to use the
jig. Then it will all be a lot more clear.
I hope that helps. If it is still not clear, please ask more
questions. This is a critical part of building your plane - making
the wings fit the fuselage.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 12:01 PM 11/23/2007, you wrote:
>
>I'm stumped and the drawings /photo guide aren't as clear to me as I
>would like.SOOOOOOO Here's the question
>
>Page 5 of the photo guide WING JIG REF 6-B-14
>
>I'm trying to drill the holes in the spar insert but I'm not quite
>sure where they go
>
>Looking at the little drawing in the upper Right of page 5 I that
>one of the holes is 132mm from the extrusion Is this the bottom
>hole or the top??
>
>Once I establish that I can use the Pic at the bottom to find the other hole
>
>And then the second question is After I get done building this jig,
>When is it used?? I see no other mention of it in the photo guide
>after you make it??
>
>Or do you just use it to check the spar to rear channel distance as
>you go along
>
>Thanks
>
>Larry Whitlow
>601XL/Jabiru 3300 50% done 80% to go, Engine due in February
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum source in Minneapolis/ST Paul |
Well, not right at this second but normally yes, I am
in Fort Frances. There is also another CH-701 scratch
builder located in International Falls as well.
Doug MacDonald
--- kmccune <kmccune@somtel.net> wrote:
> <kmccune@somtel.net>
>
> Hey I almost forgot, your in Fort Frances right?
>
> Kevin
>
> --------
> Kevin
>
>
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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| Subject: | Re: .093 vs .125 Angle |
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 weighs .200 lb/ft
Steven Bornstein
475 E. North Broadway
Columbus, Ohio 43214
614 263-5819
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
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| Subject: | Re: .093 vs .125 Angle |
If you are refering to the 701 it's about a 4 # penalty. John
>
>Hey all you scratch builders have any of you calculated the weight increase when
using the .125
>3/4" X 3/4" angle opposed to the kit supplied .093 thickness? I imagine the amount
is small but it
>does reduce your useful load. Does anyone know what the per foot weight of .093
is? If not could
>one of the kit builders measure and weigh a piece, then post it for archiving?
>
>
>Thanks,
>Art
>
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender gasket |
Larry,
I bought some of the Flame Master (3oz) (Proseal) from Vans Aircraft. Gasket on
the outside of the tank. 1/8" bead of proseal on the tank around the hole and
also around the sending unit flange. Made sure to seal around the bolt holes
on the flange.
http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=1683&log=42660&row=15
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
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Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question |
I think I'm starting to get it now '[Idea]'
Dihedral isn't really critical as far as the wing jig goes. If I'm understanding
it right, the jig's primary purpose is to set the distance from the center
spar carry thru to the rear channel. thats why there is a jig for both sides,
so they can be used together, Right???
Man this is a lot of heavy metal for a simple jig. I wonder why Zac didn't just
go ahead and drill the holes in the spar jig when they drilled the center and
the main spar already as part of the kit?
Thanks Paul
Larry
psm(at)ATT.NET wrote:
> Hi Larry,
>
> The wing jigs are used to fix the location of the rear wing attach
> points. They also play a roll in getting the spar carry-through
> fixed at the correct angle to the longerons. They need to be made to
> match the actual distance on your wings. It doesn't really matter
> too much where the holes are drilled. You just need to make sure the
> front part fits in same place the wing spars will eventually go into
> the spar carry-through. The jig can stick out nearly any distance
> from the carry-through so long as the rear feature still makes
> contact with the rear wing attach point. You can wait to drill the
> holes in the main spar part until you actually need to use the
> jig. Then it will all be a lot more clear.
>
> I hope that helps. If it is still not clear, please ask more
> questions. This is a critical part of building your plane - making
> the wings fit the fuselage.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Wing Spar Jig Question |
Hi Larry,
Yes, Dihedral doesn't matter at all for the wing jig. The dihedral
is set by the relationship between the actual wing spars and the spar
carry-through. For kit builders, this is set at the factory. For
scratch builders (and wing replacers like me) the dihedral is set
when the holes are drilled in the main spars.
I think the reason there are two jigs relates to the fact that you
can't use one jig for both wings. There is a mirror image taking
place. Also, the wing jigs should be made to exactly match your
wings which may or may not be exactly the same as the drawings and/or
each other.
I don't know the answer to the question of why ZAC does or does not
drill the jig parts. I think the parts are actually mostly scrap
from the real spar construction. Besides, it really doesn't matter
where the holes are drilled. It only matters that the distance
between the front and back parts is correct. It may also be
important that the angles of those parts accurately match the wings.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 08:20 PM 11/23/2007, you wrote:
>I think I'm starting to get it now '[Idea]'
>Dihedral isn't really critical as far as the wing jig goes. If I'm
>understanding it right, the jig's primary purpose is to set the
>distance from the center spar carry thru to the rear channel. thats
>why there is a jig for both sides, so they can be used together, Right???
>
>Man this is a lot of heavy metal for a simple jig. I wonder why Zac
>didn't just go ahead and drill the holes in the spar jig when they
>drilled the center and the main spar already as part of the kit?
>
>
>Thanks Paul
>
>
>Larry
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: .093 vs .125 Angle |
Cut a piece of 0.032 x 1.5 inch x 12 inches long. Weight it and that is
the delta/ft. (with a 1 inch long piece it would be the delta per inch)
Tony Graziano
------------
Subject: .093 vs .125 Angle
From: Art Olechowski (ifly4fun2@sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri Nov 23 - 7:43 PM
Hey all you scratch builders have any of you calculated the weight
increase when
using the .125
3/4" X 3/4" angle opposed to the kit supplied .093 thickness? I imagine
the amount
is small but it
does reduce your useful load. Does anyone know what the per foot weight
of .093
is? If not could
one of the kit builders measure and weigh a piece, then post it for
archiving?
Thanks,
Art
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc |
Sure, Ron. Fredericton airport.
I am using the Raven Redrives package for the engine. They claim 90 hp.
Can;t conform that yet but the first thing I did notice about the the engine/mount
package when I fired it up was that it runs very smoothly with little vibraiton.
I think most people are putting more hp in their 601s. Raven has a turbo version of the 1300 that puts out 115 hp. I see from their website that they have a mounting package for the 601 as well http://www.raven-rotor.com/
-- ray
--------
Ray St-Laurent
701/Pegastol wings/Suzuki engine
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