Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:07 AM - Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published Dec 1! (Matt Dralle)
1. 02:45 AM - Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (Clive Richards)
2. 03:03 AM - Re: Re: Spar cap angles on 601xl (David Downey)
3. 04:44 AM - Proseal fuel tanks (Brett Hanley)
4. 05:48 AM - Re: Proseal fuel tanks (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
5. 05:49 AM - Re: ground school (Aaron Gustafson)
6. 06:57 AM - CH701 Strut Covers (arno7452@bellsouth.net)
7. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: Spar cap angles on 601xl (David Barth)
8. 07:21 AM - Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. (billmileski)
9. 08:35 AM - Header Tank Wanted (Doug Eatman)
10. 09:27 AM - Re: ground school (Tim Juhl)
11. 11:23 AM - Re: Spar cap angles on 601xl (ashontz)
12. 11:28 AM - Fuel Tank Filler Neck (ashontz)
13. 01:53 PM - Re: Flanging Dies (Art Olechowski)
14. 02:06 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck (swater6)
15. 03:16 PM - Re: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. (Juan Vega)
16. 04:11 PM - New Tech (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
17. 05:43 PM - CH701 Strut Covers (Joe Spencer)
18. 06:03 PM - 701 backup electric pump (Joe Spencer)
19. 06:09 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck (Wingrider)
20. 06:13 PM - Re: Header Tank Wanted (Wingrider)
21. 07:06 PM - Re: Fuel tank sealing (Ron Lendon)
22. 07:21 PM - Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc (SockPuppet61)
23. 07:32 PM - Update on Zenith builders site (lwinger)
24. 07:38 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck (Ron Lendon)
25. 08:13 PM - Re: New Tech (VideoFlyer@aol.com)
26. 08:17 PM - Another Chat Room (George Race)
27. 08:24 PM - Re: Header Tank Wanted (Doug Eatman)
28. 08:33 PM - chat 8pm edit http://chat.iahu.ca (Rob St Denis)
29. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: ground school (Elden Jacobson)
30. 08:53 PM - Re: Header Tank Wanted (jhines)
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| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published |
Dec 1!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, these Lists
seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical
your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all?
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
Hi Geoff
In Rays 601 HD we ran two cables 4AWG together under
left longeron section below canopy, negative ground bolted to shelf in front
of fire wall with strap to engine & a wire to common panel ground. Master
Contactor near battery in rear. Did not fancy starting current passing
though rivets. The avionics alternative feed was fed from a small fuse near
battery. Other circuits we ran a + & - together Intercom & aerial cables we
ran on right hand side
Should have used 2 AWG to reduce volts drop but this is heavy. so
we keep the battery float charged & it starts OK.
G CBDG Continental 0-200 179 Hrs
Clive
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Heap" <stol10@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 9:11 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe.
>
> I could use some advice or comment. Over the years, as I built my airframe
> I primed everything just before riveting/assembly. With the knowledge I
> have now that seems dumb. With the battery behind the passenger seat how
> can I ground it back there. All airframe parts are isolated from each
> other electrically. Will the rivets help me out? Would they give me the
> continuity I need? Do I need to run a ground wire all the way back to the
> engine block?
> Lost in Lindenwold
>
> 912/dynon 180/icom-a210/garmin 296.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147968#147968
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Spar cap angles on 601xl |
Message 3
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| Subject: | Proseal fuel tanks |
Andy,
If you are going to rivet and proseal or flame seal your tanks there can not
be any "big" gaps. All the seams need to fit tight and be riveted down so all
surfaces are touching. Of course there will be small pin holes in the corners
and tiny gaps between the joints. The sealer will fill those. If you have large
gaps of say more than 1/32 of an inch thick you should consider another
row of rivets or some other measure to close them mechanically. Maybe you could
trim back the flange and use a piece of standard "L" to close the gap.
The poly sulfide sealers form a tenacious bond between the aluminum parts. The
sealer itself is quite tough but I would not trust it to fill large gaps.
I used this construction method on my 701 tanks and believe they are a lot stronger
than the welded version made by Zenith. I was able to incorporate two baffles
in each tank. These baffles make the tank much stronger structurally.
I did redesign the tanks making them the same size overall but all the flanges
on the ends are turned in reverse of the standard welded tanks. This allowed
me to incorporate a larger mating surface while slightly increasing the capacity
of the tank as well. If you use pop rivets they will all have to be sealed
on the exterior of the tank as well.
To give yourself a little confidence in the strength of the bond you should rivet
up some test seams when you are sealing the tanks. Rivet them as you would
any other seam of the tank. Give the entire assembly several weeks to cure,
especially in cold weather. Then drill out the rivets on the test pieces and
try to break the bond of the sealer alone. You will be surprised at how strong
the sealer is. I could not separate the bond on my samples. The aluminum tore
first.
You must be absolutely sure the the aluminum is clean. That means clean; not
kinda clean. I started the cleaning by scrubbing the parts in hot water using
dish washing soap then flushing with hot water. I repeated this process three
times. Then I wiped down the joints with MEK. Good idea to do this on a sunny
day if possible. I did this cleaning process after all the fabrication and
deburing had been done. Do not blow dry the parts with compressed air because
there may be a little oil mist in the spray. If needed a blow drier or heat
gun might work well. Once the parts are clean be sure you wear latex or nitril
gloves when handling the parts. The oil from your skin could possibly cause
problems in the bond. These sealers are messy and the gloves will simplify
the clean up process.
I mixed mine using a 10:1 ratio of sealer to hardener. A electronic scale works
great for measuring the parts. Put the scale in a clear plastic bag before
using it and you will not need to worry about getting it dirty. Scrap aluminum
that has been cleaned makes a great mixing pallet and spatula. Just throw
it away with the gloves between batches. Remember, you are looking for a great
seal and not a pretty finish. None of this will be seen when the plane is
done so if you have a smear or two out of place relax. Perfect means no leaks
and sound joints.
Be aware that there are people that swear that it is unsafe to use this sealer
on tanks using auto fuel. Other people will tell you that it is OK to use auto
fuel in these tanks. I have been soaking one of my sample bonds in premium
auto fuel inside a mason jar for about two years now. I have seen no softening
in the bond. Who is right? You tell me. My next plane will have tanks sealed
with poly sulfide sealer as well. They make good sense. Check out the Vans
website. They have the best deal on the material.
FYI I had a problematic leak in a polyethylene black water holding tank on my
motor home. I think that is why it was up for sale so cheap. I drained the
tank and scrubbed the area with Tide and a plastic brush. After rinsing well
I allowed the area to dry a few days. Then I mixed up the leftover sealer I
had stored in the fridge eighteen months earlier. After careful application with
a paint mixing stick I allowed the assembly to sit one week. To this day those
tanks are as good as new. Pretty incredible stuff.
Brett
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel tank sealing
From: "ashontz" <ashontz@nbme.org>
I think I'm going to use Pro-Seal or whatever it is Dave Clay
recommended to seal
up my tanks, which means I'm riveting them.
Anyway, I made my tanks per the Zenith plans and now that I have it
partially assembled
I'm looking at that huge gap at the full length seam side where the
skin
joins itself. That reverse bend makes for one big unnecessary gap (see
picture).
Has anyone else made the tanks per the plans, gotten that, to be
expected
gap, and had luck with the sealer taking care of that gap?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal fuel tanks |
Another option you might want to consider is building a WET wing Vans builds
all there wing tanks this way and it really isn't that tough. If you build a
wet wing you would rivet the leading edge to the wing then mark the leading
edge about 1 inch from each rib between the tank area then cut the leading
edge add a solid rib to each side leaving about an inch lip and a solid back
with about a 2 inch lip upper and lower. You would add a couple of ribs inside
the tank for extra strength add your vent, filler cap and sender and seal.
You would then take a piece of .032 and rivet one side to the LE that you left
before cutting the tank out and add plate nuts to the other side to attach
the tank to. You would also add plate nuts to the spar angle that the LE would
have been riveted to then simply slide the tank in and screw her down.
I wouldn't take the time to fabricate a wing tank inside something that
could already be used as a wing tank not to mention if you were to ever get a
leak the trouble you would have getting it out. You can also find rivets that we
use to repair leaking tanks that do not have a hole in the bottom of them so
when you pull them you only need to seal the base of the rivet and not the
hole. I will find out where to get these and post it. If you decide to build a
wet wing you must use a dremal tool to cut it so you don't have a huge gap.
This has been ok'd by Zenith also.
Jeff
In a message dated 11/26/2007 7:46:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
bretttdc@yahoo.com writes:
Andy,
If you are going to rivet and proseal or flame seal your tanks there can not
be any "big" gaps. All the seams need to fit tight and be riveted down so
all surfaces are touching. Of course there will be small pin holes in the
corners and tiny gaps between the joints. The sealer will fill those. If you
have large gaps of say more than 1/32 of an inch thick you should consider
another row of rivets or some other measure to close them mechanically. Maybe
you could trim back the flange and use a piece of standard "L" to close the
gap.
The poly sulfide sealers form a tenacious bond between the aluminum parts.
The sealer itself is quite tough but I would not trust it to fill large gaps.
I used this construction method on my 701 tanks and believe they are a lot
stronger than the welded version made by Zenith. I was able to incorporate
two baffles in each tank. These baffles make the tank much stronger
structurally. I did redesign the tanks making them the same size overall but all
the
flanges on the ends are turned in reverse of the standard welded tanks. This
allowed me to incorporate a larger mating surface while slightly increasing
the capacity of the tank as well. If you use pop rivets they will all have to
be sealed on the exterior of the tank as well.
To give yourself a little confidence in the strength of the bond you should
rivet up some test seams when you are sealing the tanks. Rivet them as you
would any other seam of the tank. Give the entire assembly several weeks to
cure, especially in cold weather. Then drill out the rivets on the test pieces
and try to break the bond of the sealer alone. You will be surprised at how
strong the sealer is. I could not separate the bond on my samples. The
aluminum tore first.
You must be absolutely sure the the aluminum is clean. That means clean;
not kinda clean. I started the cleaning by scrubbing the parts in hot water
using dish washing soap then flushing with hot water. I repeated this process
three times. Then I wiped down the joints with MEK. Good idea to do this on a
sunny day if possible. I did this cleaning process after all the
fabrication and deburing had been done. Do not blow dry the parts with compressed
air
because there may be a little oil mist in the spray. If needed a blow drier
or heat gun might work well. Once the parts are clean be sure you wear
latex or nitril gloves when handling the parts. The oil from your skin could
possibly cause problems in the bond. These sealers are messy and the gloves
will simplify the clean up process.
I mixed mine using a 10:1 ratio of sealer to hardener. A electronic scale
works great for measuring the parts. Put the scale in a clear plastic bag
before using it and you will not need to worry about getting it dirty. Scrap
aluminum that has been cleaned makes a great mixing pallet and spatula. Just
throw it away with the gloves between batches. Remember, you are looking for
a great seal and not a pretty finish. None of this will be seen when the
plane is done so if you have a smear or two out of place relax. Perfect means
no leaks and sound joints.
Be aware that there are people that swear that it is unsafe to use this
sealer on tanks using auto fuel. Other people will tell you that it is OK to
use
auto fuel in these tanks. I have been soaking one of my sample bonds in
premium auto fuel inside a mason jar for about two years now. I have seen no
softening in the bond. Who is right? You tell me. My next plane will have tanks
sealed with poly sulfide sealer as well. They make good sense. Check out
the Vans website. They have the best deal on the material.
FYI I had a problematic leak in a polyethylene black water holding tank on
my motor home. I think that is why it was up for sale so cheap. I drained
the tank and scrubbed the area with Tide and a plastic brush. After rinsing
well I allowed the area to dry a few days. Then I mixed up the leftover
sealer I had stored in the fridge eighteen months earlier. After careful
application with a paint mixing stick I allowed the assembly to sit one week.
To this
day those tanks are as good as new. Pretty incredible stuff.
Brett
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel tank sealing
From: "ashontz" <_ashontz@nbme.org_
(http://us.f508.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=ashontz@nbme.org&YY=13818&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0)
>
I think I'm going to use Pro-Seal or whatever it is Dave Clay
recommended to seal
up my tanks, which means I'm riveting them.
Anyway, I made my tanks per the Zenith plans and now that I have it
partially assembled
I'm looking at that huge gap at the full length seam side where the
skin
joins itself. That reverse bend makes for one big unnecessary gap (see
picture).
Has anyone else made the tanks per the plans, gotten that, to be
expected
gap, and had luck with the sealer taking care of that gap?
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ground school |
I took the King Sport Pilot written test course. I think it is just what
you are looking for. It is sport pilot specific and covers all of the
areas very well. You can do it as you have time, no need to make
appointments with an instructor.
Aaron G. do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | CH701 Strut Covers |
Need source for strut covers for 701.
Many thanks,
Ken Arnold
CH701 95% N701LK (Currently in the paint shop)
do not archive
<html>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<head></head>
<body>
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
<DIV>Need source for strut covers for 701.</DIV>
<DIV>Many thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Ken Arnold</DIV>
<DIV>CH701 95% N701LK (Currently in the paint shop)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>do not archive</DIV>
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Spar cap angles on 601xl |
Hi Guys.
When we originally proposed this butt joint to Chris
Heintz the first question was whether or not the spar
cap angle was used in the strength calculations of the
spar or if its purpose was simply to attach the skins
to the spar. All the spar cap angle does is transfer
the load from the skin to the spar. We could have used
a whole bunch of little angles (one for each rivet)
but it is simpler to use less (one or two) Therefore
no doubler is required.
We recognize that it does carry some of the load of
the spar so it is important to have the butt joint
located away from the termination of the front spar
caps (top and bottom) to avoid stress concentrations
at that location. Mark Townsend mentioned 16 inches I
believe. I hope this clarifies things somewhat.
David
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder 15% done?
Working on Wings
www.ch601.org
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you
with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/sports;_ylt=At9_qDKvtAbMuh1G1SQtBI7ntAcJ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: PROBLEM. Electrical Grounding with a primed airframe. |
I have a 701 with a 912S, and a battery behind the access panel in the bottom of
the rear fuse. The battery is grounded to the airframe nearby, with a ring
lug and AN3, with primer cleaned off with thinner first. Even with the old 912
starter (not new high torque one) the engine spins up quickly at start, year-round,
and I would think this is preferable to the weight and complexity of the
additional ground cable.
The strobe power supplies are at the wing tips, and their +12V power wires are
unshielded. The output to the strobes, however, is shielded, which seems to make
sense, as this is the high voltage transient signal. That said, I do hear
a very slight whine of the power supplies charging, in the headsets.
Bill Mileski
Ledyard, CT
701 912S 114hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148616#148616
Message 9
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| Subject: | Header Tank Wanted |
Hi list,
Do any of you HD/HDS kit builders have the standard 16 gallon header tank left
over from your build (perhaps due to switching to the optional wing tank system)?
I'd like to use a simple gravity feed header tank only system, which should
be more than adequate since my plane is minimally equipped and will be only
for day sport flying. Please let me know if you have one you would like to sell.
Also, anyone willing to send me the drawing page that shows how the tank is mounted
would be greatly appreciated. This is not standard or part of the 601XL
plans, and I know some changes would need to be made to the brackets, but I'd
like to see the HD/HDS drawing as a starting point.
Thanks,
Doug E
Corvair/601XL TD Scratch Build
North Florida
Do Not Archive
_________________________________________________________________
You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative
now.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: ground school |
Eldon, I've been a CFII for 22 of my 32 years of flying, and retired in 2005 after
34 years of teaching high school science. I only mention this to qualify
my remarks.
You are right to want a refresher and I commend you for it. When I learned to
fly the VOR was considered high tech and airspace was much different. In your
review I would put the greatest emphasis on learning about the changes that have
taken place that are most likely to bite the unaware. If you don't already,
subscribe to some aviation magazines so that you can keep up on current trends
and events.
Everyone has a learning style and what works for one will not work for all. Some
can just read a book, others need to see images and hear things explained while
others only learn when they do it themselves. Other posters have recommended
a number of things that have worked for them and you can pick from them or
any number of other products that are on the market.
The suggestion of getting together with an instructor or people who are flying
actively is a good one.... perhaps there is a flying club or EAA chapter near
you.
Finally, your comment "I do not expect difficulty with the piloting of the aircraft
itself" has me a little concerned. The accident reports are full of people
whose lack of recent flight experience is listed as a major factor in an aircraft
accident.... especially when it comes to flight testing a homebuilt. I'm
current and have thousands of hours but I am going to be very cautious and
careful when it comes to test flying my XL. My recommendation to you would be
to combine your book work with some flight training so that you are truly prepared
to take to the skies again.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148630#148630
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| Subject: | Re: Spar cap angles on 601xl |
Cool. Thanks
Ok, now I can stop worrying about pulling that shorty doubler out that I have in
there currently. I'll put another short doubler on the other spar when I get
around to making it just for anal-retentive/feng shui balance/qi reasons, you
know, so I know I have identical spars on either side, even if the doubler isn't
actually needed.
do not archive
zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca wrote:
> I have also posted the spar cap splice on www.ch601.org (http://www.ch601.org/) in the builders resources.
>
> Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
> Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 Otis
> www.ch601.org (http://www.ch601.org) / www.ch701.com (http://www.ch701.com)/ www.Osprey2.com (http://www.Osprey2.com)
>
> --
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148646#148646
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Filler Neck |
Has anyone found a threaded fuel tank filler neck. I can find all types of filler
necks that require a 1.5 inch hose to connect the filler neck to a pipe stub
on a tank.
My dream for my tank, I'd like a threaded insert attached to the tank itself, then
I'd like a threaded filler neck with a threaded cap, preferably locking cap,
so that once the tank is in the wing I can just thread the filler NECK into
the threaded tank insert, making for a nice flush no-pulling-my-hair-out neck
to tank connection. I'm not finding anything out there that meets this requirement.
Seems like a perfect application for a product like that if it existed,
no measuring required to get a nice flush fuel cap assembly.
do not archive
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148647#148647
Message 13
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Ron,
Nice work, I plan to follow your foot steps thanks for the detailed instructions
and I'm sure I
will be contacting in the future when I begin building.
Thanks again,
Art
--- "R.D.(Ron) Leclerc" <infow@mts.net> wrote:
> Art..
> Check these out... Ron
>
> :-{
> :-{
> :-{ Ron,
> :-{ I'm glad you looked at those closer than I did, your absolutely
> :-{ correct they are flanging blanks.
> :-{
> :-{
> :-{ Art
> :-{
> :-{ --- Ron Lalonde wrote:
> :-{
> :-{:-{ Flanging blanks? What about a completed set..I think these
> :-{:-{ need to be machined Ron
> :-{:-{
> :-{:-{
> :-{:-{:-{ Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 10:47:23 -0800> From:
> :-{:-{:-{ ifly4fun2@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Zenith-List:
> :-{:-{:-{
> :-{:-{ Flanging Dies> To: zenith-list@matronics.com> > --> Zenith-
> :-{:-{ List message posted by: Art Olechowski
> :-{:-{ > > Hi all just thought I would
> :-{:-{ shoot out the link of the source of the machined flanging
> :-{:-{ dies.> Anyone have a set of these? If so, are you happy with
> :-{:-{ results==================> > >
> :-{:-{ _________________________________________________________________ Have
> :-{:-{ fun while connecting on Messenger! Click here to learn more.
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck |
You might want to ask Zenith where they are getting theirs from. I have the old
style flange on my tanks but they have switched over to a threaded flange just
as you have described that makes a nice flush fit.
They've updated the drawings but not the photo guide.
They're using it on the AMD XL too.
--------
601 XL kit
Tail, control surfaces and both wings complete. Now working on fuselage
www.scottwaters.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148660#148660
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods. |
You do not need to safety wire the rod, for one it is desinged to be adjustable
and if you safety wire it, it won't be adjustabl;e. secondly it cannot back
out unless both end back out, and that is why they have stop nuts. just adjust
the rod to lenght needed and use the 1/2 inch wrench and tighten the stop nut.
thats it. Word of caution, DO NOT USE any Nut lock liquid, I have paid the
price on that. Just tighten the nuts.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff <jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Nov 23, 2007 8:59 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Replace aileron control cables with prush rods.
>
>
>
>
>Jam nuts are standard. Still have to safety wire.
>Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
>
>Dave,
> I just installed the aileron control rod on my right HD wing. The
>control rod is threaded the entire length. The rod end bearings appear to
>be MS21153. The bearing is a universal joint of sorts with a witness hole.
>A jam nut came with the rod for each bearing end. I can't imagine how they
>would be safetied. Can you explain?
> Jeff Davidson
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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We have a new Tech that we think will serve the corvair community very well.
The old tech we have used only showed the rpm and this brand new tech now
shows the voltage, Hobbs time, oil pressure and oil temp. You can also set the
range and if the range is exceeded it will flash on the LCD screen and sound
an audible alarm alerting you of the problem. The price for this unit is
$375.00 plus shipping and weighs about a pound and comes with the senders and
flywheel pickup. This is the introductory price and it will be going up so if
you
need any information just email me off list and I'll be glad to answer any
questions.
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 17
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| Subject: | CH701 Strut Covers |
I am now in the process of building a set for mine but seems like I saw
a set maybe on the Savannah website.
Joe
Message 18
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| Subject: | 701 backup electric pump |
Guys
I have been flying my 701/912s for a while now and after seeing the
climb angles possible am considering a backup electric pump to the
engine driven one. If it should fail in a max angle climb gravity feed
doesn't appear likely considering the fact that the engine driven pump
is mounted on the front of the engine-likely above the tank level in
this steep climb angle.
Several questions...seems like I remember a Rotax service bulletin a
while back concerning engines with electric pumps...anybody know what
that was all about? Also is the engine driven pump pervious when failed?
It would seem likely.What pressure output pump is correct? I am thinking
the standard 5 or so psi pump...
Any other info appreciated
Thanks Joe
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck |
Aircraft Spruce has the ones like ZAC uses in there tanks, about half way down
the page.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/fuel_caps.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/lwsprlfc.php
--------
Rich Whittington
Tullahoma, TN
Zenith 601HDS Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148698#148698
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Header Tank Wanted |
I've got one I don't plan to use. I don't know what it's worth, do you have the
factory Zenith seat belt/shoulder harness to trade?
--------
Rich Whittington
Tullahoma, TN
Zenith 601HDS Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148699#148699
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sealing |
Andy,
My tanks are welded and the long seam is at the other end from where your seam
is. Looking at 6-K-1, dated 08/05, the long seam is up along the top on the surface
where the filler neck goes and it rests on cork against the wing spar.
It looks like you made the long seam along the upper leading edge of the wing.
The welding was tricky but once I got the 3.5 lenses it got much easier. The arc
is so small (27 amps) I needed to magnify it to be able to see what was going
on.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148705#148705
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: C-GJRL finally flies: CH701 Pegastol, Suzuki 1300 cc |
It will be interesting to see if the performance you get is similar to Dedaleus'
advertised figures. Such an option would be pretty appealing if you did want
to cruise slightly faster.
I note their Vne is 15 faster than the CH701. Would it be the case that, while
their wing might have a Vne listed at 125 (vs 701 at 110), one still would have
to observe the 701 Vne because of the control surfaces at the back and the control
cable design?
I don't know how Vne is estimated / deduced / experimentally determined.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148706#148706
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| Subject: | Update on Zenith builders site |
Zenith updated the Builder site today for the 601XL. It is a new version of 6-B-19
labeled "Flap Controls (Electric Flap Actuator)" and it covers installation
of the new linear style actuator.
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL/Corvair from scratch
Control surfaces complete
Wings nearly ready to close
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148709#148709
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck |
I bought mine directly from Zenith about a year ago
SPRL-2-L-G/S FUEL CAP ASSMBLY $64.75 each.
M142 THREADED BUSHING 2-1/4" $11.60 each.
After welding is was necessary to run a tap back through the welded ring. They
also supplied that N/C other than the shipping back to them. It was actually
a kit that included all the tools to fix the situation and directions also.
They really are good people to deal with.
Final result below.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148711#148711
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fueltanks_027_496.jpg
Message 25
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Do you mean "Tach"....?
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 26
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| Subject: | Another Chat Room |
Cant seem to get into the chat room so far this evening.
I will be lurking around this chat room:
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
George
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Header Tank Wanted |
List,
Thanks for all the input I recieved. Special thanks to list user Craig Payne who
took the time to photograph his tank and explain to me some of the detailed
issues involved with installing it. I heard enough today to change my mind about
the changes I was going to make to the fuel system, I'll stick with the plans
now.
Lesson sincerely learned,
Doug E
Do Not Archive
_________________________________________________________________
Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista + Windows Live.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007
Message 28
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chat 8pm edit http://chat.iahu.ca
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: ground school |
Thank you, Tim, for your thoughtful response (indeed, I much appreciate all of
the comments made in response to my questions). When you quote back to me my comment
about lack of concern regarding operating the aircraft itself, I realize
it sounds a bit cavalier. I meant only to suggest that I was surprised and delighted,
during my hour aloft with Michael Heintz, to discover how natural it
all still felt. It is my intention to become flight-proficient again (Dragonfly
Aviation in Santa Rosa has an xl used for instructional purposes) before going
anywhere near the xl I am building. I stopped flying in my mid-twenties, at
the insistence of my then-wife, after my parents flew their 170 into a mountain;
now, fifty years later, "very cautious" will be my watch-word, too.
Again, my thanks,
Elden
Tim Juhl <juhl@avci.net> wrote:
Eldon, I've been a CFII for 22 of my 32 years of flying, and retired in 2005 after
34 years of teaching high school science. I only mention this to qualify my
remarks.
You are right to want a refresher and I commend you for it. When I learned to fly
the VOR was considered high tech and airspace was much different. In your review
I would put the greatest emphasis on learning about the changes that have
taken place that are most likely to bite the unaware. If you don't already,
subscribe to some aviation magazines so that you can keep up on current trends
and events.
Everyone has a learning style and what works for one will not work for all. Some
can just read a book, others need to see images and hear things explained while
others only learn when they do it themselves. Other posters have recommended
a number of things that have worked for them and you can pick from them or
any number of other products that are on the market.
The suggestion of getting together with an instructor or people who are flying
actively is a good one.... perhaps there is a flying club or EAA chapter near
you.
Finally, your comment "I do not expect difficulty with the piloting of the aircraft
itself" has me a little concerned. The accident reports are full of people
whose lack of recent flight experience is listed as a major factor in an aircraft
accident.... especially when it comes to flight testing a homebuilt. I'm
current and have thousands of hours but I am going to be very cautious and careful
when it comes to test flying my XL. My recommendation to you would be to
combine your book work with some flight training so that you are truly prepared
to take to the skies again.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148630#148630
---------------------------------
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Header Tank Wanted |
Doug,
What information did Craig share with you? I was thinking of doing the same thing
so I am interested in hearing what changed your mind. I'm a Corvair guy so
the gravity feed system would sure be simpler and cheaper. I admit that opinion
is rather uninformed.
John
--------
John Hines
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148740#148740
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