Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - XL Landing gear nuts Torque (chris Sinfield)
2. 05:30 AM - Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque (Bryan Martin)
3. 06:45 AM - Re: Seat Belts for Sale (Wingrider)
4. 08:43 AM - Re: Drill Press (Cort Sims)
5. 09:41 AM - Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
6. 12:16 PM - Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque (Tim Juhl)
7. 12:17 PM - Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque (Bryan Martin)
8. 04:13 PM - hds corvair wb (601corvair)
9. 04:13 PM - hds corvair wb (601corvair)
10. 04:31 PM - Wing Lockers (steve)
11. 04:55 PM - Re: Wing Lockers (Gig Giacona)
12. 05:46 PM - Re: hds corvair wb (n282rs@satx.rr.com)
13. 07:10 PM - Enamel and gas. (LRM)
14. 08:33 PM - Re: Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks. (Art Olechowski)
15. 10:19 PM - Re: Wing Lockers (mosquito56)
16. 10:30 PM - Dual Stick option (mosquito56)
Message 1
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| Subject: | XL Landing gear nuts Torque |
Hi all
Today we stood it on the gear, what a sight. Now for the life of me I cant find
the torque required on the nut before I drill it and split pin. Those of you
how are already there where did you find it ? Is it just the normal torque for
that size nut from the figures on the new CS page 35??
Chris.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150003#150003
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| Subject: | Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque |
If you torque it to the standard value for that nut, you will bend
the aluminum extrusion holding the gear spring in place. The gear
spring has to pivot some at that point as you load and unload the
mains. I just tightened the nuts until the rubber strips were
compressed a bit and the extrusion wasn't distorted. It's kind of
like the engine mount bolts with the rubber cones, they need to be
snug but not over tightened.
On Dec 2, 2007, at 7:02 AM, chris Sinfield wrote:
> <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>
> Hi all
> Today we stood it on the gear, what a sight. Now for the life of me
> I cant find the torque required on the nut before I drill it and
> split pin. Those of you how are already there where did you find
> it ? Is it just the normal torque for that size nut from the
> figures on the new CS page 35??
>
> Chris.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Seat Belts for Sale |
I"m interested in your seat belts but haven't been able to contact you off list.
Is the 701 seat belts the same as the 601's? I need a set for my 601HDS.
Thanks
--------
Rich Whittington
Tullahoma, TN
Zenith 601HDS Under Construction
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150023#150023
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I remember struggling with this decision: should I buy a table mounted drill
press or a floor mounted press? My next door neighbor purchased a floor
mounted press from Harbor Freight and highly recommended it to me before I
purchased mine. I looked at the Harbor Freight model in the store and was
not impressed with the fit and finish. About the same time (2001) Wood
Magazine came out with a review of drill presses. In their review Sears
Craftsman and Delta came out on top, Harbor Freight was not even listed. I
figured that this would be the first and last drill press I will ever buy so
I wanted a good one with plenty of power that could be adapted to many
different drilling tasks. I decided to buy the Delta (Model 17-965) because
it had the longest quill stroke of 4 7/8" and a swing of 16 1/2 of those
reviewed. I also was taken with the lever style quill lock.
The advantage of table mounted drill presses is that they can be moved
around the shop with relatively little effort, but they also tend to be less
powerful than floor models. Floor models are top heavy and are designed to
be bolted to the floor. Nevertheless, I do not know of anyone who actually
has bolted theirs to the floor. If you have ever seen a top heavy lamp hit
a concrete floor you probably were shocked, as I have been, with the force
and resultant damage. I can imagine the damage my drill press would suffer
if it ever topples over. Delta recognizes the fact that most people will
not be bolting their presses to the floor. Their recommendation is that if
you do not bolt it to the floor is to bolt a rectangular piece of 3/4
plywood to the bottom of the base to widen the presses foot print. They
recommend the plywood stick out a minimum of 3 inches around the base. I
had a piece of scrap 3/4 Baltic birch plywood that I used than sticks out 6
inches on the side and 4 inches front and back to go under the press base.
I park my truck next to where the drill press sits and snow melts off of the
truck and forms a pool of water that would destroy the plywood in no time.
So leaving it like this was not an option. In addition, moving the drill
press with the plywood base like this would be very difficult. I fixed
these potential problems by buying a white plastic cutting board at Target
or Shopko and cutting four 3 inch by 4 inch rectangles out of it and
attached these to the underside corners of the plywood with counter sunk
screws. I then drilled a 1 inch hole in the middle of the front edge of the
plywood. This keeps the plywood off of the floor and away from any moisture
coming off of my truck. It also makes moving the drill press around the
shop fairly easy. I made a hook that fits into the 1 inch hole in the
middle of the front edge of the plywood that I can pull the press around the
shop with while holding on to the table. It is a nice stable base that is
unlikely to topple over during normal operations. That said, I have
purchased a number of accessories from Harbor Freight with good results,
including their compound vise, vise grip table clamp and column mounted
swing away shelf.
Cort Sims,
cortsims@verizon.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque |
I don't think that is correct... you don't want any flexing at the angle. I
torque mine to the proper torque specs for the nut and it did bend the angle
slightly. I would call Zenith on this one. If you look at the photos theirs is
bent also.
Jeff
In a message dated 12/2/2007 8:32:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
bryanmmartin@comcast.net writes:
If you torque it to the standard value for that nut, you will bend the
aluminum extrusion holding the gear spring in place. The gear spring has to pivot
some at that point as you load and unload the mains. I just tightened the
nuts until the rubber strips were compressed a bit and the extrusion wasn't
distorted. It's kind of like the engine mount bolts with the rubber cones, they
need to be snug but not over tightened.
On Dec 2, 2007, at 7:02 AM, chris Sinfield wrote:
<_chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au_ (mailto:chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au) >
Hi all
Today we stood it on the gear, what a sight. Now for the life of me I cant
find the torque required on the nut before I drill it and split pin. Those of
you how are already there where did you find it ? Is it just the normal
torque for that size nut from the figures on the new CS page 35??
Chris.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque |
This is one of those questions that we'd all like to see answered. Please contact
Zenith and report back what you find out.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150073#150073
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: XL Landing gear nuts Torque |
It will flex at the angle. When you put a load on the mains, the gear
legs bend upward and the middle section of the gear spring bows
downward. This is noticeable even when the plane is empty and parked.
There's no way to get the nuts tight enough to prevent this. Most of
the bending occurs in the gear legs of course. If this was meant to be
a rigid attachment, you wouldn't bother with the rubber spacers.
I tightened my nuts until they started to distort the extruded angles.
I didn't manage to get the torque to the standard value. It does have
to be tight enough to prevent any vertical play at the attachment
point. The notches in the gear spring and the close fit of the bolts
to the spring prevent any sideways or fore-aft movement.
On Dec 2, 2007, at 12:40 PM, Afterfxllc@aol.com wrote:
> I don't think that is correct... you don't want any flexing at the
> angle. I torque mine to the proper torque specs for the nut and it
> did bend the angle slightly. I would call Zenith on this one. If you
> look at the photos theirs is bent also.
>
> Jeff
>
> In a message dated 12/2/2007 8:32:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, bryanmmartin@comcast.net
> writes:
> If you torque it to the standard value for that nut, you will bend
> the aluminum extrusion holding the gear spring in place. The gear
> spring has to pivot some at that point as you load and unload the
> mains. I just tightened the nuts until the rubber strips were
> compressed a bit and the extrusion wasn't distorted. It's kind of
> like the engine mount bolts with the rubber cones, they need to be
> snug but not over tightened.
>
>
> On Dec 2, 2007, at 7:02 AM, chris Sinfield wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Hi all
>> Today we stood it on the gear, what a sight. Now for the life of me
>> I cant find the torque required on the nut before I drill it and
>> split pin. Those of you how are already there where did you find
>> it ? Is it just the normal torque for that size nut from the
>> figures on the new CS page 35??
>>
>> Chris.
>>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 8
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We have an HDS with a WW corvair,
10 gal leading edge tanks, no header,
tricycle gear. If anyone has s similar flying setup
we were wondering where you put the battery.
How much does you battery weigh?
Can we place it behind the set or does it need
to go way aft for weight and balance?
Thanks. phill
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 9
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We have an HDS with a WW corvair,
10 gal leading edge tanks, no header,
tricycle gear. If anyone has s similar flying setup
we were wondering where you put the battery.
How much does you battery weigh?
Can we place it behind the set or does it need
to go way aft for weight and balance?
Thanks. phill
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 10
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Do you have wing lockers ?
I purchased the locker kit when I ordered my QBK but intend to wait til
later on to install them. I wonder how much "weakness" they will put in
my wing structure..??..
What do you think about installing them in the last outboard section
near the wing tips ??? That way the stress is not in the critical
areas.......
SW
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Lockers |
The lockers aren't going to weaken the wings. They have been installed in many
601s and the design is blessed if not designed by CH. Moving them outward though
is probably not a good idea because the moment of the weight will move out
there as well and 30 lbs where they are designed would equal a greater weight
further away from the center of gravity.
BTW... It will be much easier to install them during the building of the wing than
waiting.
notsew_evets(at)frontiern wrote:
> Do you have wing lockers ?
> I purchased the locker kit when I ordered my QBK but intend to wait til later
on to install them. I wonder how much "weakness" they will put in my wing
structure..??..
> What do you think about installing them in the last outboard section near the
wing tips ??? That way the stress is not in the critical areas.......
>
> SW
>
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150111#150111
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: hds corvair wb |
When I had my Corvair, I made a shelf just above the rudder pedals for the battery.
My plane is an HD and I also had a 5 gallon header and 15 gallon leading
edge tanks. It would have benefited me if I had put my ELT in the tail, but the
C/G was within allowable limits (barely) with a 180 lb pilot and full fuel.
Randy Stout
San Antonio TX
n282rs@satx.rr.com
www.geocities.com/n282rs
-----Original Message-----
From: 601corvair <airvair601@yahoo.com>
To:corvaircraft@mylist.net, Zenith list <Zenith-List@matronics.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: hds corvair wb
We have an HDS with a WW corvair,
10 gal leading edge tanks, no header,
tricycle gear. If anyone has s similar flying setup
we were wondering where you put the battery.
How much does you battery weigh?
Can we place it behind the set or does it need
to go way aft for weight and balance?
Thanks. phill
Message 13
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I decided to try the enamel and gas engine painting process that Great
Planes recommends. Other than stinking I was very surprised. I went to
scrape some of it off an area that was for a gasket and found it very
difficult to remove. It makes me wonder why, how and if it would work
on other bare aluminum like a primer. This stuff really stuck. Have
any of you tried this?
For those who don't know what I am talking about. Great Planes Aircraft
recommends to those who wish to paint their engines (VW) that they use a
mixture of oil based enamel mixed 50/50 with gasoline.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks. |
Bob,
My stick machine is AC only. Last I remember AC was one suitable method for welding
alum.
Art
--- Bob Unternaehrer <shilocom@mcmsys.com> wrote:
> I guess for polarity reversal when going from 4130 to aluminum you will have
to rig up a way to
> switch the leads unless your dc machine has straight and reverse polarity. Bob
U.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Art Olechowski
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 601 XL 15 gal. fuel tanks.
>
>
>
> Find a cheap stick welder and convert it to a tig to weld the aluminum and
use the
> oxy/acetylene
> for the steel. Here's the link for the conversion kit if your interested:
>
> http://www.tigdepot.net/products_details2.php?productid=197
>
> Art
> --- Afterfxllc@aol.com wrote:
>
> > If you ordered that crap they show using a torch and some rods don't waste
> > your money. Trust me you will do nothing but make a lot of scrap metal.
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 11/30/2007 1:07:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > ashontz@nbme.org writes:
> >
> > --> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz" <ashontz@nbme.org>
> >
> > I hear ya. I just ordered some stuff and an instructional video to gas weld
> > my tanks. At least if I'm going to spend even half or a thrid that kind
of
> > money I want some tools and skills out of it I can have forever.
> >
> > [quote="notsew_evets(at)frontiern"]My QBK is # 55. There are three nose
> > ribs inboard of the tank. I assume I need to install the senders on the
end of
> > the tank. Its no problem but I didnt want to screw up these "costly"
> > tanks. I ve been watching your discussion of tank costs here and cant
believe
> > the $$$$$.
> > Heck, about $6 of sheet aluminum and a tig welder would put us in
> > business...
> >
> > SW
> >
> > > ---
> >
> >
> > --------
> > Andy Shontz
> > CH601XL - Corvair
> > www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149665#149665
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
> > products.
> > (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Lockers |
You definitely DO NOT want to move the wing lockers outboard. As Gig said the moment
will be such that they will only be usable for very small amounts of weight.
I don't see any problem with installing the compartments at a later date unless
you paint the plane. Then cutting and drilling will screw up the paint job.
I am installing dual baggage and dual landing lights just because they look
cool.
Don
N601NV, Completing front fuselage, Engine next month
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150134#150134
Message 16
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| Subject: | Dual Stick option |
If anyone can scan the ds1-3 pages and e-mail em to me I would appreciate it. The
kit I bought was with the Y control and I got the dual stick option later.
I don't have any of the dual stick pages.
Mosquito-56@hotmail.com
Thanx
I installed the dual sticks today and the pictures show the center line of
the sticks as slightly off center to avoid hitting the aileron tube. However
when I go to connect the aileron turnbuckles one needs to be much shorter than
the other in order to get the sticks and tube straight. What do you suggest as
an alignment for this problem?
Another problem is the L-angle extrusions for the outboard attachments. The picture
show bolts going through the top and bottom holes. But why would I want
to put a bolt through. It would seem that if the bolt vibrates loose I have no
way to get into the wing spar area to tighten it up. I was thinking just to
put 5 A-5's and be done with it. Can anyone explain why they have bolts there?
Don
N601NV- Completing forward fuse, engine next month, flying by spring
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150136#150136
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