Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:27 AM - Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (rgeese)
2. 07:48 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (robert stone)
3. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (Russell Lassetter)
4. 09:17 AM - Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (japhillipsga@aol.com)
5. 09:44 AM - Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (Randy L. Thwing)
6. 10:15 AM - Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (Jaybannist@cs.com)
7. 10:39 AM - Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) (Edward Moody II)
8. 11:19 AM - Re: Metal Spinning (ashontz)
9. 11:40 AM - Re: Bleeding brake lines (ashontz)
10. 11:44 AM - Re: Enamel and gas. (ashontz)
11. 11:50 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck (ashontz)
12. 04:15 PM - Main Spar Bolts and Holes (steve)
13. 04:28 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Craig Payne)
14. 04:36 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Bryan Martin)
15. 04:51 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (papaniapatrick@aol.com)
16. 05:09 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Larry Winger)
17. 05:27 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (steve)
18. 05:39 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (george may)
19. 06:04 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Juan Vega)
20. 06:21 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
21. 07:32 PM - 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets (PatrickW)
22. 07:43 PM - Re: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets (Craig Payne)
23. 08:05 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Debo Cox)
24. 08:25 PM - More on wing spar bolts/holes (steve)
25. 08:35 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Jeff)
26. 08:47 PM - Re: Re: Avex Rivets (David Downey)
27. 09:03 PM - Re: More on wing spar bolts/holes (Ron Lendon)
28. 09:13 PM - Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes (Ron Lendon)
29. 09:16 PM - Re: 601XL-TD Question (David Downey)
30. 09:33 PM - Re: Removing metal scratches on Rudder (David Downey)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
Good advice! Although I haven't completed installing my canopy, new springs are
on order!
Just a minor correction to Roberts original post. The McMaster-Carr stock number
for the 60# springs is 9416K123, not 8416K123.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152111#152111
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
List Members,
Ron is right as rain, I don't know how in the hell I failed to notice
that I had one number wrong. My only excuse is age. The only thing good
about getting old in Texas is my fishing license is free and I can blame all
of my stupid errors on it. Sorry guys, from now on I will proof read
everything I send out before I hit the send button.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "rgeese" <rgeese1@columbus.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs)
>
> Good advice! Although I haven't completed installing my canopy, new
> springs are on order!
>
> Just a minor correction to Roberts original post. The McMaster-Carr stock
> number for the 60# springs is 9416K123, not 8416K123.
>
> Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152111#152111
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
Bob,
Ingenious. Now that you have opened my eyes I too will blame my mistakes on
my fishing license:-)
I couldn't resist. Merry Christmas.
Russ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of robert stone
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:45 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs)
>
>
>
> List Members,
> Ron is right as rain, I don't know how in the hell I failed
> to notice
> that I had one number wrong. My only excuse is age. The only thing good
> about getting old in Texas is my fishing license is free and I
> can blame all
> of my stupid errors on it. Sorry guys, from now on I will proof read
> everything I send out before I hit the send button.
>
> Bob Stone
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rgeese" <rgeese1@columbus.rr.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:25 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs)
>
>
> >
> > Good advice! Although I haven't completed installing my canopy, new
> > springs are on order!
> >
> > Just a minor correction to Roberts original post. The
> McMaster-Carr stock
> > number for the 60# springs is 9416K123, not 8416K123.
> >
> > Ron
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152111#152111
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
Bob thanks for in info on the struts. I to have found the ZAC struts unable to
hold the canopy forward in even just a lite breeze, but I really haven't looked
to replace them. On the same subject, different plane, I am building an RV-8a
as a big sister to my XL. The 8 has a baggage door on the forward side of the
fuselage that would benefit from a lite strut (s). Would you consider a sale
or trade for something for the struts you have excess? Let me know and thanks,
Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: robert stone <rstone4@hot.rr.com>
Sent: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 2:27 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs)
???? I found the canopy gas springs or struts were not strong enough to hold the
canopy up even in a light breeze.? I inquired as to the strength of the struts
furnished in the kit and found them to be 40 pounds.? I replaced them with
a pair of 60 pounders and eliminated the problem of my canopy slamming down unexpected.
???? I am sure some of you who are building or have built the ZodiacXL either have
the same problem or will have so here is the information on obtaining the
stronger struts. McMasters & Company are the people Zenith Aircraft gets the struts
from.? Their phone number is 630-833-0300.? The gas struts furnished by
Zenith for the ZodiacXL are part number 9416K12 (40 Pound)? the stronger strut
is part number 8416K123 (60 Pound)? The cost for two is $19.76, shipping is $5.00
for a total of $24.76.? They come without the attaching ends so you have
to use your old ones however the old struts screw out and the new one screws in.?
Very easy to change.
?
Bob Stone
Harker Heights, Tx.
ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 3300
??????? ?N4337G
?
________________________________________________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
Do not archive
Clarification please.
Do I understand correctly that in Texas all that's required to fly Light
Sport Aircraft is a Fishing License? Would that be a Statewide or County
license?
Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas
<rblassett@alltel.net>
>
> Bob,
>
> Ingenious. Now that you have opened my eyes I too will blame my mistakes
on
> my fishing license:-)
>
> I couldn't resist. Merry Christmas.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
Randy, Come on! You know that merely BEING a Texan gives us license to do whatever
we have the cajones to do. Sometimes we have to cow-tow to the Feds to stay
out of the jusgow (jail), but we really don't need their permission to get
the job done, fer sure.
Jay in Dallas
Definitely do not archive
"Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>Do not archive
>
>Clarification please.
>
>Do I understand correctly that in Texas all that's required to fly Light
>Sport Aircraft is a Fishing License? Would that be a Statewide or County
>license?
>
>Regards,
>
>Randy, Las Vegas
>
>
><rblassett@alltel.net>
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Ingenious. Now that you have opened my eyes I too will blame my mistakes
>on
>> my fishing license:-)
>>
>> I couldn't resist. Merry Christmas.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs) |
In SW LA "License" and "Opportunity" are the same thing.
Ed
Do Not Archive
Do Not Dare Me Either
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaybannist@cs.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Canopy Gas Struts (Springs)
Randy, Come on! You know that merely BEING a Texan gives us license
to do whatever we have the cajones to do. Sometimes we have to cow-tow
to the Feds to stay out of the jusgow (jail), but we really don't need
their permission to get the job done, fer sure.
Jay in Dallas
Definitely do not archive
"Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v@mindspring.com> wrote:
<n4546v@mindspring.com>
>
>Do not archive
>
>Clarification please.
>
>Do I understand correctly that in Texas all that's required to fly
Light
>Sport Aircraft is a Fishing License? Would that be a Statewide or
County
>license?
>
>Regards,
>
>Randy, Las Vegas
>
>
><rblassett@alltel.net>
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Ingenious. Now that you have opened my eyes I too will blame my
mistakes
>on
>> my fishing license:-)
>>
>> I couldn't resist. Merry Christmas.
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
12/13/2007 9:15 AM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Metal Spinning |
Yeah, looks way to hard, as is the restof the building. I'm just going to go ahead
and order completed plane and then claim that I built it. LOL
do not archive
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152164#152164
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding brake lines |
I bought one of those vacuum pumps from Pep Boys for bleeding my PU truck clutch.
Works great.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152173#152173
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Enamel and gas. |
Sounds dangerous at first, but actually enamel paint is pretty flamable on it's
own, especially if it's thinned with paint thinner. Probably no more dangerous
than regular painting. I'm assuming you're using a sprayer?
[quote="lrm(at)skyhawg.com"]I decided to try the enamel and gas engine painting
process that Great Planes recommends. Other than stinking I was very surprised.
I went to scrape some of it off an area that was for a gasket and found
it very difficult to remove. It makes me wonder why, how and if it would work
on other bare aluminum like a primer. This stuff really stuck. Have any
of you tried this?
For those who don't know what I am talking about. Great Planes Aircraft recommends
to those who wish to paint their engines (VW) that they use a mixture
of oil based enamel mixed 50/50 with gasoline.
Larry, www.SkyHawg.com, N1345L
> [b]
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152176#152176
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Filler Neck |
Sweet looking fillers Ron. I like that. Do they have locks on them too?
Ron Lendon wrote:
> I bought mine directly from Zenith about a year ago
>
> SPRL-2-L-G/S FUEL CAP ASSMBLY $64.75 each.
> M142 THREADED BUSHING 2-1/4" $11.60 each.
>
> After welding is was necessary to run a tap back through the welded ring. They
also supplied that N/C other than the shipping back to them. It was actually
a kit that included all the tools to fix the situation and directions also.
>
> They really are good people to deal with.
>
> Final result below.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152179#152179
Message 12
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| Subject: | Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
OK builders here is one for you....
I m about to install my wings on the 601 XL QBK.
The other night I wanted to see how tight the main spar bolts would fit
into the wing spar ( factory drilled ) holes.
Man O man, there is a lot of "slop" in the holes.
I emailed Zenith and told them that I was concerned about this critical
part.
The first answer I got from Zenith was, " Some slop is needed to get the
bolts in the holes "....
I disagreed..
Zenith asked me to measure the holes. I did. Used a caliper on the
bolts and then the holes. I got a reading of .011..
Eleven thousandths.....difference.
I m not a machinist but I aint totally stupit either.
Then Zenith emailed and said that I need to increase the spar hole size
to an AN-6. Thats 3/8 inch.....
Since I m not into dying just yet I asked Zenith engineers to confirm
the the AN 6 size is safe. I am worried about the metal removal on the
spar.
They did....Said that in no way will going to an AN 6 decrease the wing
strength.....
Sooooo, what I want to know from you builders is this: Tell us about
your experience with the spar and bolts. Were yours tight ??? Sloppy ??
Steve W
Message 13
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| Subject: | Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
When you enlarge the holes use an undersized drill and then a reamer.
-- Craig
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
My spar bolts fit very snug, no slop at all.
On Dec 14, 2007, at 7:12 PM, steve wrote:
> OK builders here is one for you....
>
> I m about to install my wings on the 601 XL QBK.
> The other night I wanted to see how tight the main spar bolts would
> fit into the wing spar ( factory drilled ) holes.
> Man O man, there is a lot of "slop" in the holes.
> I emailed Zenith and told them that I was concerned about this
> critical part.
> The first answer I got from Zenith was, " Some slop is needed to get
> the bolts in the holes "....
> I disagreed..
> Zenith asked me to measure the holes. I did. Used a caliper on the
> bolts and then the holes. I got a reading of .011..
> Eleven thousandths.....difference.
> I m not a machinist but I aint totally stupit either.
> Then Zenith emailed and said that I need to increase the spar hole
> size to an AN-6. Thats 3/8 inch.....
> Since I m not into dying just yet I asked Zenith engineers to
> confirm the the AN 6 size is safe. I am worried about the metal
> removal on the spar.
> They did....Said that in no way will going to an AN 6 decrease the
> wing strength.....
> Sooooo, what I want to know from you builders is this: Tell us
> about your experience with the spar and bolts. Were yours tight ???
> Sloppy ??
>
> Steve W
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
I am building an XL, but it is not a quick build. My wing spar bolts are a tight
fit into the holes. I fitted pins for the wing spars so that I could trial fit
the wings during construction and fitting. There was absolutely no slop what
so ever.
-----Original Message-----
From: steve <notsew_evets@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 7:12 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Main Spar Bolts and Holes
OK builders here is one for you....
?
I m about to install my wings on the 601 XL QBK.
The other night I wanted to see how tight the main spar bolts would fit into the
wing spar ( factory drilled ) holes.
Man O man, there is a lot of "slop" in the holes.
I emailed Zenith and told them that I was concerned about this critical part.
The first answer I got from Zenith was, " Some slop is needed to get the bolts
in the holes "....
I disagreed..
Zenith asked me to measure the holes.? I did.? Used a caliper on the bolts and
then the holes.? I got a reading of .011..
Eleven thousandths.....difference.
I m not a machinist but I aint totally stupit either.
Then Zenith emailed and said that I need to increase the spar hole size to an AN-6.?
Thats 3/8 inch.....
Since I m not into dying just yet I asked Zenith engineers to confirm the the AN
6 size is safe.? I am worried about the metal removal on the spar.??
They did....Said that in no way will going to an AN 6 decrease the wing strength.....
Sooooo,? what I want to know from you builders is this:? Tell us about your experience
with the spar and bolts.? Were yours tight ??? Sloppy ??
?
Steve W
?
________________________________________________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
I scratch built my spars and worked for many, many hours to insure that
there was no slop in the bolt/bolt hole interface. If I had known it was
allowed, I could have relaxed more (insert goofy looking smiley face here).
Larry Winger
601XL/Corvair
Tustin, CA
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
Larry, it may be allowed but I m not pleased with slop.
Not sure but rumor has it that a 601 lost a wing. Anyone know if thats
true ? So thats why I m not happy with loose bolts.
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Winger
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Main Spar Bolts and Holes
I scratch built my spars and worked for many, many hours to insure
that there was no slop in the bolt/bolt hole interface. If I had known
it was allowed, I could have relaxed more (insert goofy looking smiley
face here).
Larry Winger
601XL/Corvair
Tustin, CA
Message 18
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| Subject: | Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
mine were tight-----------------
George May
601XL 912sdo not archive
_________________________________________________________________
Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
I was a quick built Kit and my spar bolt holes were missaligned and tighter. The
problem lies in the fact that the spar cassette can slide down when the wings
are off. so took oversized screw driver and as wings were placed, I hammered
the driver through to realign the bolt holes. A few were tight and we bought
the AN 6 size bolts and instead tried to hammer the suppled bolts. That finally
worked. AN 6 would work, thicker bolt afterall than an5s. The wings
you mentioned fell off the plane because the flyer forgot that manauvering speed
was 103, not 130. 6 gs is "utility at manauvering speed. Irrelevant to whether
AN6 bolt. When the bolts are bolted in Torgue them to proper speck,
AN6 have different Torques. Toirque the rear spar bolt as well. As per Faa
documents, "if bolts are torqued per the chart, the default rate is zero".
-----Original Message-----
>From: papaniapatrick@aol.com
>Sent: Dec 14, 2007 7:48 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Main Spar Bolts and Holes
>
>I am building an XL, but it is not a quick build. My wing spar bolts are a tight
fit into the holes. I fitted pins for the wing spars so that I could trial
fit the wings during construction and fitting. There was absolutely no slop what
so ever.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: steve <notsew_evets@frontiernet.net>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 7:12 pm
>Subject: Zenith-List: Main Spar Bolts and Holes
>
>
>OK builders here is one for you....
>
>?
>
>I m about to install my wings on the 601 XL QBK.
>
>The other night I wanted to see how tight the main spar bolts would fit into the
wing spar ( factory drilled ) holes.
>
>Man O man, there is a lot of "slop" in the holes.
>
>I emailed Zenith and told them that I was concerned about this critical part.
>
>The first answer I got from Zenith was, " Some slop is needed to get the bolts
in the holes "....
>
>I disagreed..
>
>Zenith asked me to measure the holes.? I did.? Used a caliper on the bolts and
then the holes.? I got a reading of .011..
>
>Eleven thousandths.....difference.
>
>I m not a machinist but I aint totally stupit either.
>
>Then Zenith emailed and said that I need to increase the spar hole size to an
AN-6.? Thats 3/8 inch.....
>
>Since I m not into dying just yet I asked Zenith engineers to confirm the the
AN 6 size is safe.? I am worried about the metal removal on the spar.??
>
>They did....Said that in no way will going to an AN 6 decrease the wing strength.....
>
>Sooooo,? what I want to know from you builders is this:? Tell us about your experience
with the spar and bolts.? Were yours tight ??? Sloppy ??
>
>?
>
>Steve W
>
>?
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
Steve, my bolts were a good fit. On enlarging the holes and bolts. Do NOT
drill to the final size. Buy and use a reemer. Large drill bits make three sided
holes. Also on the bolts. If your going to the expense buy NAS bolts. They are
much stronger than ANs and closer tolerance. At my next annual I plan on
replacing my XL AN spar bolts with NAS bolts. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
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Message 21
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| Subject: | 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
Is there any advantage to NOT riveting the HT Attachment Brackets (6B1-8 and 6B1-9)
at the same time that the rest of the lower rear fuselage is riveted...?
I'm roughly done with 6-B-4 (lower rear fuselage assembly) and am wondering if
any of you guys who are further along found it best to rivet the HT Attachment
Brackets at this time, or if it's better to be able to remove them later in the
process (like when you are fitting the horizontal stabilizer).
Thanks,
Patrick
XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152271#152271
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| Subject: | 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets |
Some report that they can fit the horizontal stabilizer with all the
brackets and the top rear skin in place and some find they can't. The
quick-build kits come with one of the forward brackets uninstalled.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PatrickW
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL - Riveting HT Attachment Brackets
Is there any advantage to NOT riveting the HT Attachment Brackets (6B1-8 and
6B1-9) at the same time that the rest of the lower rear fuselage is
riveted...?
I'm roughly done with 6-B-4 (lower rear fuselage assembly) and am wondering
if any of you guys who are further along found it best to rivet the HT
Attachment Brackets at this time, or if it's better to be able to remove
them later in the process (like when you are fitting the horizontal
stabilizer).
Thanks,
Patrick
XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152271#152271
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
Hey guys,
Like Larry, I scratch-built my spars and spent an insane amount of time lining
up, drilling, and reaming the spar bolt holes. Mine are what Section 7-39 of
the AC43.13-1B says bolt holes of primary connecting elements should be - a "light-drive"
fit.
Since I know the next question, a "light-drive" fit is defined as "an interference
of 0.0006 inch for a 5/8 inch bolt." For those of us (me included) that
need further explanation, that's tight.
God knows I'm no expert. Just passing along what the book says.
Debo Cox
Nags Head, NC
Scratch-built XL/Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/debo
Do not archive
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| Subject: | More on wing spar bolts/holes |
Cant for the life of me figure out how to respond to threads without
starting a new message, Oh well.
Thank Goodness you guys are here.
I ve been looking on the internet for reamers.
I see 3/8 inch reamers with a .3750
and I see a .3760
I "assume" I would purchase a .3750.....????
If I undersize the drill bit and then ream, what "exact" size drill bit
do I use ??
Anybody have a reamer and drill bit for sale ....???
New are $18, that aint no big deal but I thought I d ask.
Steve
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| Subject: | Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
Steve,
I'm building an HD, but I can tell you that the holes in the
splice plate that connects the center wing spar with the outer wing spar are
3/8 and 5/16. I had to replace the rear splice plates from the factory so I
drilled those holes. With a drill and then a reamer in a drill press, I got
a snug fit that required just a little pressure to get the bolts into the
holes through the splice plates and spar caps. They were a tight enough fit
that they would not go through unless the plate was exactly flat and lined
up with the spar caps. The point is that 3/8 size is normal in the HD/HDS
wing spar caps.
Jeff Davidson
<snip>
Then Zenith emailed and said that I need to increase the spar hole size to
an AN-6. Thats 3/8 inch.....
Since I m not into dying just yet I asked Zenith engineers to confirm the
the AN 6 size is safe. I am worried about the metal removal on the spar.
They did....Said that in no way will going to an AN 6 decrease the wing
strength.....
Sooooo, what I want to know from you builders is this: Tell us about your
experience with the spar and bolts. Were yours tight ??? Sloppy ??
Steve W
Message 26
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I prefer to level the residual pintail by "dusting" it down flush with the rivet
head in a series of light touches with a Dotco or similar very high speed grinder
(sanding disc grinder). The problem with filing it down is that the pressure
and vibration of filing are in cahoots to reduce the pintail retention system
of the fastener (not the greatest to start with)
John Marzulli <john.marzulli@gmail.com> wrote: I've have some rivets ( Zenith provided
) on my fuselage with the shank not having cleanly torn away and have
been trying to figure out what to do about them.
Is it safe to leave them, is it OK to "clean them up" with a file, or would it
be best to drill them out and re-rivet those holes?
Thanks,
On Dec 4, 2007 1:11 PM, n801bh@netzero.com <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
I am going to chime in here. On my 801 I built in 2001 every one of the ZAC supplied
Rivets always pulled correctly and out of 14,000+, none ended up with a
shank sticking out. The only difficult ones were the Stainless ones used on the
firewall. They just broke the air riveter. :<(.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "PatrickW" <pwhoyt@yahoo.com> wrote:
dougsnash(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Personally, I'm using the Aircraft Spruce rivets.
>
> I belive the rivets that Zenith sells are from a certain Avex plant and have
amore consistant breakaway of the stem when pulled.
>
> Occasionally, the Spruce rivets do have a slight protrusion of the broken stem.
It happens but not very often.
>
I also used ACS rivets. I'd also purchased some A6's from ACS and from one other
vendor (at Oshkosh) - the ones from ACS had a more consistent appearance and
appeared to be of better quality which compares well with the ones supplied
from Zenith. I've only used rivets from Zenith and from ACS. I threw away the
ones I got from the other vendor.
As far as the stems pulling off cleanly, I think that's more "luck of the draw".
About 1 out of 4 of my Zenith supplied A5's have a sharp tip sticking up.
Run your hand along your wing rivet lines and you'll see what I mean. I'm not
too worried about it, but if I were polishing my wings I would be as it would
tear up polish pads in short order.
Patrick
XL/Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150395#150395
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--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot harder
to put baseball cards in the spokes.
-Airplane The Movie
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
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Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: More on wing spar bolts/holes |
Use a drill about 1/64 smaller than the final size should work in most applications.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152289#152289
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Main Spar Bolts and Holes |
Mine are tight and I reamed them up to 5/16 from 1/4" I kept everything bolted
together and only worked one hole at a time. With your QB I'm guessing the wings
and fuselage are built. Bolt it together, check your Dihedral and work one
hole at a time with a hand drill and vee block. Get a set of reamers to open
the holes up a little at a time.
You can see the process I used at this link:
http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=24457&row=228
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152290#152290
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL-TD Question |
or, if you are determined to improve the toughness of the tailcone structure, space
the rivet line slightly closer together and add a few percent more rivets
into the build. Most of the joints look like they will be head pops or shear
rather than bearing failure in the thin sheet. Pay very anal attention to the
quality of the hole sizes, citcularity, deburring, and proper setting of those
rivets and the basic design is probably OK for a lifetime of minor "learning
cycles".
Brad,
Rivet size is determined by the material and loads that are being
supported. To arbitrarily put in A5s you place excessive loading on the
thin materials,
you limit your options when you miss the size and have to go to the next
larger to compensate and you gain none of the material strength by using
A5s where A4s are specified. Stay with plan "a" would be my recommendation.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Brad Cohen wrote:
>
> OK,
> this is for those of you with TD's out there;
>
> I am seriously considering replacing all A4's with A5's in the rear
> fuselage.
>
> My assumption is the following; Yes. using all A5's will increase the
> weight. Nominally (5#, maybe 10, but I doubt this much) Maybe not the
> entire tail, I guess the turtledeck could be A4's but I am looking at
> taking this trade-off for the increased strength. I am thinking about
> all the abuse the tailfeathers will take once I start three-point
> landings.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Brad Cohen
>
>
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
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Message 30
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| Subject: | Removing metal scratches on Rudder |
I would caution that some areas of skin are more subject to the effects of sonic
fatigue than others. The input stimulations can be proprllor pulses, engine
exhaust reports, high frequency air buffeting, and anyplace that goes resonant
as a result of applied sonic pressures. These possible locations need to have
any "sharp bottomed" scratch burnished out (then filled, if desired).
If your nail is stuck in it then mild buffing is in order, but since it
is on the skin I would not worry too much, the properties of 6061 will
allow it to stay resistant to corrosion. If you are buffing your plane
then it will come out. If your painting then a small amount of putty
will remove all trace. Once again this is for a skin in which we have a
scratch that we are not worried about becoming a crack. If this was a
spar then all trace would need to be removed.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Reinking
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 11:45 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Removing metal scratches on Rudder
Just finished riveting the rudder together. Being a newbie builder,
even being careful, have all kinds of very thin scratches on the skin
surfaces. Is this deadly? Is there some way to buff them out and
(lastly) quick instructions on how to do that?
Thanks, gang, John Reinking (starting 601XL)
12/5/2007 8:41 AM
12/5/2007 8:41 AM
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
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