Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:35 AM - Re: Oil-canning (Larry H)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Adding extra rib to rudder (Martin Pohl)
3. 05:44 AM - Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit (Martin Pohl)
4. 05:56 AM - Fw: Re: Re: Wing or Flap or Aileron Flutter (Scott Thatcher) (Juan Vega)
5. 05:57 AM - Re: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit (Juan Vega)
6. 06:35 AM - Please read last chapter (ZodieRocket)
7. 07:35 AM - new subscriber (Gary Thomas)
8. 07:37 AM - Re: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit (steve)
9. 07:42 AM - Re: Oil-canning (steve)
10. 08:27 AM - Re: Wing Stand Plans (jonaburns)
11. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Wing Stand Plans (Larry Winger)
12. 10:53 AM - Access Hole Covers (Dave VanLanen)
13. 10:59 AM - Re: Re: Any one fishing from floats in a Zenith? 701 vs 601? ()
14. 11:32 AM - Re: new subscriber (robert stone)
15. 11:34 AM - Re: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit (Craig Payne)
16. 11:41 AM - Re: Oil-canning (John Reinking)
17. 11:50 AM - Re: new subscriber (IFLYSMODEL@aol.com)
18. 12:25 PM - Re: Access Hole Covers (Tim Juhl)
19. 12:34 PM - Re: Access Hole Covers (LarryMcFarland)
20. 01:04 PM - Re: new subscriber (Bryan Martin)
21. 01:11 PM - Re: Throttle Controls CH701 (Cannon, Walt)
22. 01:12 PM - Re: new subscriber (Kevin L. Rupert)
23. 01:34 PM - Re: new subscriber (David Downey)
24. 02:00 PM - Re: new subscriber (robert stone)
25. 02:51 PM - Re: Wing Stand Plans (jonaburns)
26. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit (steve)
27. 05:18 PM - Re: Nose Gear Bearing Material (N601RT)
28. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: Wing Stand Plans (ZodieRocket)
29. 07:19 PM - Welded Fuel Tanks Update (ashontz)
30. 08:54 PM - Re: Welded Fuel Tanks Update (Ron Lendon)
31. 11:03 PM - Starting my 701 project ()
Message 1
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Dink-Donk....Dink-Donk........
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Adding extra rib to rudder |
I will also fabricate an end rib for the rudder leading edge bottom. As Dred said,
do that only when you have installed both rudder and "plastic"-fairing to
the horizontal tail. In my case there is a 1/2 inch gap between fairing and rudder
which I will adjust with this additional rib.
Cheers Martin
--------
Martin Pohl
Zodiac XL QBK
8645 Jona, Switzerland
www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156109#156109
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit |
Craig, how about installing the wings with the normal AN5-bolts, then check wing
dihedral, then ream and install one by one of the bolts to the larger AN6?
What do others think about this procedure?
I have a CZAW-QBK, but did not check the bolt holes yet (although I am somewhat
scared now to do that :? ).
Cheers Martin
--------
Martin Pohl
Zodiac XL QBK
8645 Jona, Switzerland
www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156111#156111
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fw: Re: Re: Wing or Flap or Aileron Flutter (Scott Thatcher) |
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Jan 5, 2008 8:54 AM
>To: MaxNr@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Re: Wing or Flap or Aileron Flutter (Scott Thatcher)
>
>The rudder is a great design! it is so strong, that i landed with a true 15
knot cross wind! winds were 330 @ 26 knot on a 360 degree runway. 70 mph with
no flaps. Full left rudder crabbing down the appraoch pickle, then straighten
out and full left aileron, Whew Hew! It is a hoot! air and space magazine
has a great article this month on foil design and it goes into the design of
all flying rudders, which were big in WWI.
>
>Juan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: MaxNr@aol.com
>>Sent: Jan 5, 2008 1:07 AM
>>To: amyvega2005@earthlink.net
>>Subject: Re: Re: Wing or Flap or Aileron Flutter (Scott Thatcher)
>>
>>Thanks Juan, one can assume that it would have good recovery characteristics
>>with that powerful rudder. I'm not surprised. How about those videos?
>>Bob
>>
>>
>>**************
>>Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
>>
>>http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit |
i think it is a great idea.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Martin Pohl <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
>Sent: Jan 5, 2008 8:44 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit
>
>
>Craig, how about installing the wings with the normal AN5-bolts, then check wing
dihedral, then ream and install one by one of the bolts to the larger AN6?
>
>What do others think about this procedure?
>
>I have a CZAW-QBK, but did not check the bolt holes yet (although I am somewhat
scared now to do that :? ).
>
>Cheers Martin
>
>--------
>Martin Pohl
>Zodiac XL QBK
>8645 Jona, Switzerland
>www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156111#156111
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Please read last chapter |
We have heard about the 701 fatality before Christmas. However, please
read the last chapter. There is nothing to learn here, but I wish to ask
each of you to please, take a second to talk to people like this. If a
simple talk does not stop them then please report their actions. I have
little use for induced stupidity, I myself have been guilty of it and
though I hate hearing it, I realize the depth of my miss-judgment when
others have responded. BUT for the sake of the family report these
people when you see shit like this if they will not listen the first
time.
Mark
NTSB Identification: DEN08LA040
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Saturday, December 15, 2007 in Las Cruces, NM
Aircraft: Garniss STOL 701, registration: N45500
Injuries: 1 Fatal.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain
errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final
report has been completed.
On December 15, 2007, at 1641 mountain standard time, a Garniss STOL
701, N45500, piloted by a sport pilot, was destroyed when the it struck
terrain while maneuvering on the outskirts of Las Cruces, New Mexico.
Visual meteorological conditions prevailed at the time of the accident.
The personal flight was being conducted under the provisions of Title 14
CFR Part 91 without a flight plan. The pilot was fatally injured. The
local flight originating at an undetermined time from Las Cruces (LRU),
New Mexico.
According to an FAA inspector, the pilot purchased the airplane
approximately 2 months ago. His daughters told the inspector that every
time he flew, he would "buzz" his house and "wig wag" his wings. He was
wig wagging his wings when the left wing tip struck the ground and the
airplane cartwheeled.
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
1/5/2008 11:46 AM
Message 7
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Hi everyone.
I've been lurking for about 18 months now and only just got around to subscribing.
In that period I've completed the airframe on a 601XL and finished my instrument
panel with "just" the electrics and firewall forward to go.
The members on this list have been a huge help to me and this is my thank-you.
Those of you that deal with Caleb at Zenith know too what a huge help he can
be.
I've also put together a Corvair engine with the help of William Wynne and his
compadres (they generously started me off with a ride in their plane when I
first visited). Those who have gone this route know what a rewarding experience
this can be too.
I've gone from being an idiot about all things mechanical to now feeling that
I can pretty much do anything with the right tools, preparation and information.
It's a great feeling. I'm especially good at drilling out rivets.
The members of this list have been invaluable whenever I reached a hiccup (use
of fuel-lube on leaky fuel sender, edge distance problems, fixing of canopy
cracks). I've also picked up many useful tips - painting of the instruments panel,
polishing (it's gonna be silver), and fixing an extrusion to the longeron
to allow for a padlock.
I've also seen some speculation by the occasional member too lazy to do some
simple fact checking before posting their speculation. Much of this relates to
the Corvair; William gets understandably prickly about this, although his website
certainly provides enough information for people to conduct their own research
and see through the myths. Since there are now 17 of these powering 601's
and Zenith has displayed one at every recent airshow. I urge you visit it,
ask questions and then decide for yourself. I will say that it takes a long
time to do for the first-timer because of the learning curve, but that's what
we're in it for.
Now I think I am ready to start taking flying lessons :-)
Best wishes to all. I think we're all trying to do something pretty special.
Gary Thomas
Weston FL
601XL/Corvair
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit |
I also "think" this is the way out of my problem. I bet Zenith suggests
this very method for a cure. But,,, getting a drill motor along the two
bolts that are next to the fuselage skin will be a pain....
I could just do it! However I think Zenith needs to tell me EXACTLY what
they want me to do... "They" drilled the holes. They didnt find the
error......
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 6:44 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit
>
> Craig, how about installing the wings with the normal AN5-bolts, then
> check wing dihedral, then ream and install one by one of the bolts to the
> larger AN6?
>
> What do others think about this procedure?
>
> I have a CZAW-QBK, but did not check the bolt holes yet (although I am
> somewhat scared now to do that :? ).
>
> Cheers Martin
>
> --------
> Martin Pohl
> Zodiac XL QBK
> 8645 Jona, Switzerland
> www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156111#156111
>
>
>
Message 9
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I remember when they came out with a new fangled gadget that had a
trigger looking thing that you would actually pull and the oil would
squirt out like magic but I aint never learned about english and running
sentences...
----- Original Message -----
From: Southern Reflections
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Oil-canning
I'am so old that I remember when you couldn't buy soda in a can ....
Joe N101HD
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Turnquist
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Oil-canning
We used to get a free can opener with every six pack of beer too!
Oh, the good old days.
do not archive!
Hope this useless info doesn't drive Larry over the brink!
Joemotis@aol.com wrote:
Oil used to be sold in cans. Think a cardboard tube with punched
sheet metal ends crimped on. When the can had been punctured and
drained, you could take your finger and push on the can end and it
would collapse in and make a sound "dink".
Then when you released pressure, it would pop back and make the
sound 'donk'
Zenith (and many other) aircraft are prone to the same thing
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Stand Plans |
It looks like the leg ends are only 1 foot. Is that correct?
Thanks for the update.
Jon Burns
601XL -- Still working on the Canopy while waiting on engine parts.
Dallas TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156146#156146
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Stand Plans |
Here is what Mark Townsend wrote yesterday on the www.ch601.org website:
We have made quite a few of these stands over the last couple of years, I do
not have a blueprint but I will describe the construction here. If someone
wants to draw it up and send it to me I would appreciate it.
First off drop by Home Depot and pick up 4 - 8ft 2 X 4 as straight as
possible and 1 - 6ft 2X4, also a 4 X 4 piece of construction grade 1/2 in
plywood. Add to that some screws 2" and 3" a couple of tie down straps (
wide) or Berber carpet ( no shag, this is not the 70's) Pick 4 castering 2"
or bigger rubber wheels.
The top and bottom of the center section are 8 ft.
The uprights in the center section are 4 ft
The legs that the wheels are attached to are 3 ft
The uprights for the wing holders are 2 ft
The whole stand is built on the wheel legs, build the center section first,
then screw on the legs and add wheels, then add the wing uprights. All
corners are to be gusseted with plywood. When you look at the pictures above
you will see a 2 X 4 doublers on the bottom of the center section. I have
found that this is not needed, the gussets are more then ample for the wing
stand. I use Roofing nails to hold the straps onto the stand, 5 in each end
and center are more then sufficient for the task.
This stand is strong, the longest distance in the back of a pickup has been
500 miles.
Construction time is 2 hours in total, including coffee. We can now put one
together in 20 minutes, without the Java stop.
Mark Townsend.
-----------------------------------
Larry Winger
Tustin, Ca
Scratchbuilding 601XL/Corvair
Starting fuselage
On Jan 5, 2008 8:26 AM, jonaburns <lsapilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> It looks like the leg ends are only 1 foot. Is that correct?
>
> Thanks for the update.
>
> Jon Burns
> 601XL -- Still working on the Canopy while waiting on engine parts.
> Dallas TX
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156146#156146
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Access Hole Covers |
Here is a dumb question for the list. I am priming my faying surfaces with
zinc chromate. I am planning to have my airplane professionally painted
when complete. Do I need to prime the faying surfaces between the removable
access hole covers and the skin around the access holes, or do the
professional paint shops remove the access covers before painting?
Thanks,
Dave Van Lanen
601XL - Elevator
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Any one fishing from floats in a Zenith? 701 vs 601? |
Got to throw my two cents in:----- Seaplane flying is an absolute hoot
! I took my training at Jack Brown's, in Winter Haven Florida. (They'r
e at Gilbert Field, which was an auxiliary field when I was in flight
school at Bartow.) The most fun you can have sitting down. But, Norcal
? Yeech! Phooey! Blaaagh! At Jack Brown's, you get to learn landings a
t the same lake that is home to Cypress Gardens, with all the bikinied
honeys waterskiing right in your peripheral vision. Gives you great t
raining in divided attention, and maintaining concentration in the, er
, face of distractions. One of the coolest things you will ever do is
a circular takeoff and climbout.=0A=0APaul Rodriguez=0ADO NO
T ARCHIVE=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: hansriet<m
ailto:hansinla@mac.com> =0A To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:z
enith-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 10:
41 PM=0A Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Any one fishing from floats in
a Zenith? 701 vs 601?=0A=0A=0A --> Zenith-List message poste
d by: "hansriet" <hansinla@mac.com<mailto:hansinla@mac.com>>=0A
=0A The seaplane rating is by far the most fun rating to get. I got m
y training from Norcal aviation and the subsequent mountain flying add
on was a treat that no pilot should be without. Low and slow is the w
ay to go. I'm building my XL on wheels now but will definitely look in
to Mark's floats when the time is right and the floats are available.
=0A=0A Hans van Riet=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A Read this t
opic online here:=0A=0A http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.p
hp?p=155873#155873<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=155
=======================
=======================
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.
=======================
=======================
= --> http://forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>
=======================
=======================
=======================
========0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: new subscriber |
Gary,
I'm sure you saw my post about installing new fuel tank sump drains
because of the originals leaking and requiring frequent change of the
little O-ring seal. The Curtis sump drain valves I ordered from Acft
Spruce are scheduled to arrive here on the 8th and I am wondering what
to use for a thread sealant when I install them. Someone told me that
Teflon is OK for any system other than a system where gas or oil comes
in contact with the Teflon because it will melt it. If you know of a
fuel resistant sealant, please advise.
Bob Stone
Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 3300
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Thomas
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: new subscriber
Hi everyone.
I've been lurking for about 18 months now and only just got around to
subscribing.
In that period I've completed the airframe on a 601XL and finished my
instrument panel with "just" the electrics and firewall forward to go.
The members on this list have been a huge help to me and this is my
thank-you.
Those of you that deal with Caleb at Zenith know too what a huge help
he can be.
I've also put together a Corvair engine with the help of William Wynne
and his compadres (they generously started me off with a ride in their
plane when I first visited). Those who have gone this route know what a
rewarding experience this can be too.
I've gone from being an idiot about all things mechanical to now
feeling that I can pretty much do anything with the right tools,
preparation and information. It's a great feeling. I'm especially good
at drilling out rivets.
The members of this list have been invaluable whenever I reached a
hiccup (use of fuel-lube on leaky fuel sender, edge distance problems,
fixing of canopy cracks). I've also picked up many useful tips -
painting of the instruments panel, polishing (it's gonna be silver), and
fixing an extrusion to the longeron to allow for a padlock.
I've also seen some speculation by the occasional member too lazy to
do some simple fact checking before posting their speculation. Much of
this relates to the Corvair; William gets understandably prickly about
this, although his website certainly provides enough information for
people to conduct their own research and see through the myths. Since
there are now 17 of these powering 601's and Zenith has displayed one at
every recent airshow. I urge you visit it, ask questions and then
decide for yourself. I will say that it takes a long time to do for the
first-timer because of the learning curve, but that's what we're in it
for.
Now I think I am ready to start taking flying lessons :-)
Best wishes to all. I think we're all trying to do something pretty
special.
Gary Thomas
Weston FL
601XL/Corvair
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit |
My take is that drilling out the many rivets and removing the center spar
from the fuselage is a low-risk operation. And I feel it will greatly
increase my chances of doing the best job I can at drilling and reaming the
offending holes. But before I touch anything I'm going to use precision hole
gauges to measure all the holes and measure a sampling of close tolerance
bolts. All the needed items should be in my hands by next Wednesday.
Stay tuned.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit
I also "think" this is the way out of my problem. I bet Zenith suggests
this very method for a cure. But,,, getting a drill motor along the two
bolts that are next to the fuselage skin will be a pain....
I could just do it! However I think Zenith needs to tell me EXACTLY what
they want me to do... "They" drilled the holes. They didnt find the
error......
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 6:44 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit
>
> Craig, how about installing the wings with the normal AN5-bolts, then
> check wing dihedral, then ream and install one by one of the bolts to the
> larger AN6?
>
> What do others think about this procedure?
>
> I have a CZAW-QBK, but did not check the bolt holes yet (although I am
> somewhat scared now to do that :? ).
>
> Cheers Martin
>
> --------
> Martin Pohl
> Zodiac XL QBK
> 8645 Jona, Switzerland
> www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156111#156111
>
>
>
Message 16
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Amen.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: new subscriber |
Hey Gary: Fuel Lube is the best product, but I do not think it is made/sold
any more. Aircraft Spruce has some stuff they call EZ turn, which I have not
used. Has anyone else used this stuff?
Spruce PN 09-00180 EZ TURN ( FUELUBE ) 1 LB CAN
A one pound can will last you forever.
Lynn Nelsen
Frostproof Fl 601 HD
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Access Hole Covers |
Depends on the paint shop and the wishes of the owner of the aircraft. I would
suggest removing the covers and having them painted separately. That way the
whole surface of the cover will be painted as well as the area on the skin under
the screw heads. You will also avoid the issue of having to break the paint
around the cover/skin and screw head/skin interfaces. I prefer stainless steel
machine screws rather than painted heads because in use the paint on the
heads will chip.
I did spray primer around the inside of the inspection holes cut in the skin.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156194#156194
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Access Hole Covers |
It's a good question Dave,
It's likely they'd be removed if you've got a good paint shop. I masked
behind the inspection hole surfaces and painted wings and covers
separately. I think this is
the only way a good paint job can be done. Masking behind inspection
holes begins by taping behind the edges, then taping the tape to close
without touching any metal.
It's awkward but doable,
see link for painting solutions at www.macsmachine.com/html/Paint.htm
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Dave VanLanen wrote:
>
> Here is a dumb question for the list. I am priming my faying surfaces
> with zinc chromate. I am planning to have my airplane professionally
> painted when complete. Do I need to prime the faying surfaces between
> the removable access hole covers and the skin around the access holes,
> or do the professional paint shops remove the access covers before
> painting?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Van Lanen
>
> 601XL - Elevator
>
> *
> *
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: new subscriber |
Teflon tape is not recommended for fuel systems. Not because it will
melt in the fuel but because removal and re-installation of the fittings
can result in tiny slivers of the tape getting into the lines and
causing problems downstream (eg. clogged carburetor jets or fuel
injectors). It's very difficult to get all the tape particles out of the
female threads. Teflon paste type sealers are fine, used sparingly, as
long as it's designed for use with gasoline. Teflon itself is impervious
to most solvents, but the paste that it is mixed in with may not be. You
can go down to the local auto parts store and get some product designed
to seal gasoline fittings. You should use a product that doesn't harden
but stays pliable. Permatex makes a good product for this that you can
get in a small tube for a reasonable price. In any case, don't overdo
it. A little dab will do ya. Keep the paste back from the end of the
fitting so it doesn't squeeze out inside the line. You don't want globs
of this stuff getting loose inside the lines either.
robert stone wrote:
> Gary,
> I'm sure you saw my post about installing new fuel tank sump drains
> because of the originals leaking and requiring frequent change of the
> little O-ring seal. The Curtis sump drain valves I ordered from Acft
> Spruce are scheduled to arrive here on the 8th and I am wondering what
> to use for a thread sealant when I install them. Someone told me that
> Teflon is OK for any system other than a system where gas or oil comes
> in contact with the Teflon because it will melt it. If you know of a
> fuel resistant sealant, please advise.
>
--
Bryan Martin
Zenith 601XL N61BM
Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive
Do Not Archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle Controls CH701 |
I took a slightly different approach on the throttle cable length issue.
Instead of cutting & shortening, I just routed it in a nice gentle 360
degree circle under the panel before it exited the firewall. That way I
was left with the threaded factory end and rubber seal boot.........WC
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: new subscriber |
Give Sealube (P/N 09-25200) or Bakerseal (P/N 09-00346) from Spruce a
try. Both are impervious to aviation fuels and have been used for years
in that application.
Kevin
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: new subscriber |
the rule I was taught way back when in A&P school was that all sealers should be
kept at least 1 threads away from the entry end of the threads. Also, in the
event of flare fittings, there are dead soft aluminum flare washers that forgive
a world of minor defects when assembling such systems. Don't over tighten
the fittings or re-use the flare washers though...
Teflon tape is not recommended for fuel systems. Not because it will
melt in the fuel but because removal and re-installation of the fittings
can result in tiny slivers of the tape getting into the lines and
causing problems downstream (eg. clogged carburetor jets or fuel
injectors). It's very difficult to get all the tape particles out of the
female threads. Teflon paste type sealers are fine, used sparingly, as
long as it's designed for use with gasoline. Teflon itself is impervious
to most solvents, but the paste that it is mixed in with may not be. You
can go down to the local auto parts store and get some product designed
to seal gasoline fittings. You should use a product that doesn't harden
but stays pliable. Permatex makes a good product for this that you can
get in a small tube for a reasonable price. In any case, don't overdo
it. A little dab will do ya. Keep the paste back from the end of the
fitting so it doesn't squeeze out inside the line. You don't want globs
of this stuff getting loose inside the lines either.
robert stone wrote:
> Gary,
> I'm sure you saw my post about installing new fuel tank sump drains
> because of the originals leaking and requiring frequent change of the
> little O-ring seal. The Curtis sump drain valves I ordered from Acft
> Spruce are scheduled to arrive here on the 8th and I am wondering what
> to use for a thread sealant when I install them. Someone told me that
> Teflon is OK for any system other than a system where gas or oil comes
> in contact with the Teflon because it will melt it. If you know of a
> fuel resistant sealant, please advise.
>
--
Bryan Martin
Zenith 601XL N61BM
Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive
Do Not Archive
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
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Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: new subscriber |
Bryan.
Thanks much for your lengthy response. I never even thought of going
to an auto supply to find something that is designed to use on fuel system
connectors.
Bob Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: new subscriber
>
> Teflon tape is not recommended for fuel systems. Not because it will
> melt in the fuel but because removal and re-installation of the fittings
> can result in tiny slivers of the tape getting into the lines and
> causing problems downstream (eg. clogged carburetor jets or fuel
> injectors). It's very difficult to get all the tape particles out of the
> female threads. Teflon paste type sealers are fine, used sparingly, as
> long as it's designed for use with gasoline. Teflon itself is impervious
> to most solvents, but the paste that it is mixed in with may not be. You
> can go down to the local auto parts store and get some product designed
> to seal gasoline fittings. You should use a product that doesn't harden
> but stays pliable. Permatex makes a good product for this that you can
> get in a small tube for a reasonable price. In any case, don't overdo
> it. A little dab will do ya. Keep the paste back from the end of the
> fitting so it doesn't squeeze out inside the line. You don't want globs
> of this stuff getting loose inside the lines either.
> robert stone wrote:
>> Gary,
>> I'm sure you saw my post about installing new fuel tank sump drains
>> because of the originals leaking and requiring frequent change of the
>> little O-ring seal. The Curtis sump drain valves I ordered from Acft
>> Spruce are scheduled to arrive here on the 8th and I am wondering what to
>> use for a thread sealant when I install them. Someone told me that
>> Teflon is OK for any system other than a system where gas or oil comes in
>> contact with the Teflon because it will melt it. If you know of a fuel
>> resistant sealant, please advise.
>>
>
> --
> Bryan Martin
> Zenith 601XL N61BM
> Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Stand Plans |
I see that the leg end states that it is 2 ft long, but by looking at the picture,
it seems to be only 1 foot or so. If it were 2 ft, it would be half as tall
as the 4 ft center.
This is probably just a typo, or I just cannot judge the scale from the photo.
Thanks!
Jon Burns
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156218#156218
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit |
Hi Craig.
I agree with you. I will also receive the hole gauges from Zenith next
week.
But, we spent a great amount of money to buy the QBK and I think Zenith owes
us a partial refund.
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 12:28 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit
>
> My take is that drilling out the many rivets and removing the center spar
> from the fuselage is a low-risk operation. And I feel it will greatly
> increase my chances of doing the best job I can at drilling and reaming
> the
> offending holes. But before I touch anything I'm going to use precision
> hole
> gauges to measure all the holes and measure a sampling of close tolerance
> bolts. All the needed items should be in my hands by next Wednesday.
>
> Stay tuned.
>
> -- Craig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 8:37 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build
> kit
>
>
> I also "think" this is the way out of my problem. I bet Zenith suggests
> this very method for a cure. But,,, getting a drill motor along the two
> bolts that are next to the fuselage skin will be a pain....
> I could just do it! However I think Zenith needs to tell me EXACTLY what
> they want me to do... "They" drilled the holes. They didnt find the
> error......
> SW
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 6:44 AM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Oversized spar bolt holes in a quick-build kit
>
>
>>
>> Craig, how about installing the wings with the normal AN5-bolts, then
>> check wing dihedral, then ream and install one by one of the bolts to the
>> larger AN6?
>>
>> What do others think about this procedure?
>>
>> I have a CZAW-QBK, but did not check the bolt holes yet (although I am
>> somewhat scared now to do that :? ).
>>
>> Cheers Martin
>>
>> --------
>> Martin Pohl
>> Zodiac XL QBK
>> 8645 Jona, Switzerland
>> www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156111#156111
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Bearing Material |
Wayne,
I've installed the lower nose gear bearing that Zenair sells on my HDS (6G2-1 as
referenced above). I also installed the upper nose gear bearing (6B8-6) from
Zeniar at the top of the nose gear AND at the bottom and top of the main gear
legs on my HDS. My gear action is now much smoother than the original HDS implementation
on my plane.
NOTES:
The "center firewall stiffener" on the XL is wider than on the HDS! The outside
dimension of the XL part (6B8-7) is 100 while the HDS part (6F9-4) is 93. I had
a friend mill 3.5 from each side of the XL lower nose gear bearing to fit in
my center firewall stiffener.
The XL lower nose gear bearing mounts in holes you drill and tap for four AN4H-5A
bolts. The HDS uses six AN3 bolts to hold the lower bearing assembly. I was
able to use my original holes. I don't remember if I used four or six bolts,
but I think I used four. The Zenair lower nose gear bearing also includes the
"ramp" to center the nose gear. This replaces the "nose gear stops", 6F10-1. I
found a .pdf document online that described how to drill, tap and install the
bearing. I would expect that Zenair would be willing to give you a copy of the
document.
Let me know if you choose to use the Zenair lower nose gear bearing and would like
pictures of my installation.
Regards,
Roy
N601RT: 2002 CH601HDS, nose gear, Rotax 912ULS, All electric, IFR equipped, 895hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156235#156235
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Stand Plans |
The wing stand you see in the picture is not one of mine, it was made
the same as the one available from Aircraft Spruce. I do make the leg
ends at 2 ft. I do this because the stands seldom stay in the shop. They
are used widely for transport and the extra length is desirable in this
situation. IF your wing stand is just for home use then 1 1/2 would be
just fine. Any shorter and you will not have enough strap wrapped around
the wing and all pressure would be on the leading edge alone.
Mark Townsend
Can-Zac Aviation Ltd.
president@can-zacaviation.com
www.can-zacaviation.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jonaburns
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Wing Stand Plans
I see that the leg end states that it is 2 ft long, but by looking at
the picture, it seems to be only 1 foot or so. If it were 2 ft, it
would be half as tall as the 4 ft center.
This is probably just a typo, or I just cannot judge the scale from the
photo.
Thanks!
Jon Burns
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156218#156218
1/5/2008 11:46 AM
1/5/2008 11:46 AM
Message 29
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| Subject: | Welded Fuel Tanks Update |
Well, I've been practicing my aluminum welding skills now for about a month and
I can honestly say... this is doable. Having made a bunch of successful edge
welds similar to the edge welds called for in the plans with no visible pinholes.
The next step will be to fabricate a small test tank and try pressurizing
it.
Total cost outlay, about $300 for gas welding equipment which can also be put to
good use in other welding projects including standard old steel welding. Vastly
superior to stick or MIG welding.
Kudos to Tinman Tech and Fournier Industries for good instructional videos.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156253#156253
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Welded Fuel Tanks Update |
Keep the test pressures low, 2-3 psi if ya go much higher it will deform the tank.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=156264#156264
Message 31
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| Subject: | Starting my 701 project |
Ok well I am bitting the bullet and starting a 701 so guys, I will be
making wing ribs and horizontal ribs and the like first. So anyone
interested in taking a short cut and think you might want to buy some
parts instead of making them I will be reasonable on pricing so let me
know so I can make ones for you while I make them for myself.
David Mikesell
230 Theresa Drive, #6
Cloverdale, CA 95425
209-224-4485
skyguynca@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
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