Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:17 AM - Got new site up (Aerolitellc@aol.com)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: HDS Wings (jackandval)
3. 05:14 AM - Re: 701 Rudder Tip Rib Help (kmccune)
4. 05:22 AM - Re: Welded Fuel Tanks Update (ashontz)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: Welded Fuel Tanks Update (ashontz)
6. 07:28 AM - Re: rudder cam...how big is too big? (Carl)
7. 07:45 AM - Re: Re: HDS Wings (LarryMcFarland)
8. 09:40 AM - Re: N701ZZ 1st flight (Jab 3300 w/retractable slats) (kmccune)
9. 09:57 AM - Re: Re: N701ZZ 1st flight (Jab 3300 w/retractable slats) (James Sagerser)
10. 11:34 AM - Re: rudder position light (rbjjr)
11. 12:05 PM - Re: rudder cam...how big is too big? (Tim Juhl)
12. 04:22 PM - Question (John Short)
13. 04:37 PM - Re: Re: 701 Rudder Tip Rib Help (David Downey)
14. 04:37 PM - 701 Elevator Cable Balancing (Jeffrey A Beachy)
15. 08:51 PM - Re: Holding Nose up (Terry Phillips)
16. 08:59 PM - Re: Question (MacDonald Doug)
17. 10:38 PM - Rib forming questions (Jugle)
18. 11:09 PM - Re: Question (DRAGONFUEL@aol.com)
Message 1
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Great things are coming check it out.
Just finished the site so it might take some time to get around the net.
_http://aeroliteproducts.com/_ (http://aeroliteproducts.com/)
Jeff
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
Message 2
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I have a 601 HDS and live in the mountains . I can tell you that the HDS gets bounced
around a lot and find it hard to believe that you would gain anything by
changing wings.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159184#159184
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Rudder Tip Rib Help |
Thanks
do not archive
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159183#159183
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| Subject: | Re: Welded Fuel Tanks Update |
Good tip on the oxy setting. With my little jewelers torch I'm using the Tin Mna's
advance, which is pretty much the same, don't even look at the gauges, close
the regulators, open both torch valves, crank in the acet regulator til you
get some flow, light it, adjust to big fuzzy no soot flame, then start cranking
in the oxygen til you get a neutral flame. With low line pressures you can't
even go by regulator, only what seems to work for the torch.
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Tack it all up first. Work on joining your welds once you have good ones.
>
> Get a Stainless wire brush only for this purpose.
>
> The method I used with the tig is:
>
> Wire brush area, tack weld.
>
> Tacks were about 12" then 6" apart.
>
> To join the welds:
>
> Wire brush area, weld from tack to tack.
>
> You of course will also have flux application. I was able to run a 6" bead fairly
consistently on the 601 tanks.
>
> To keep the oxidization down with the torch try setting the acetylene pressure/flow
and leave the oxygen off but have the oxygen valve on the torch wide open,
gradually bring the pressure up on the oxygen tank to set the flame. Using
that method the mix at the tip of the torch gathers oxygen from the atmosphere
minimizing the oxidation of the weld area.
>
> On my tanks the oxygen pressure is just off the pin using the above settings.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159186#159186
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| Subject: | Re: Welded Fuel Tanks Update |
Tried a tank fitting. Fitting was about 3/4 inch diameter flange (now less) with
a 1/2 shank, made it up on the lathe real quick and drilled a half inch hole
in the .032 sheet. Next time I'll put even more flux on it and flux the back
side. Actually not to bad though for a first try. Then I drilled the hole.
Interesting, on the thicker stuff it wasn't so obvious it was already molten. As
soon as I poked at it with the rod is flowed. I mainly heated the fitting, not
the skin. Maybe 25% of the flame or less was on the skin. More like broiled
the skin and heated the fitting flange.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159203#159203
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture_012_155.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/picture_012_206.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: rudder cam...how big is too big? |
I would advise caution when adding any (relatively) large heavy object
to the top of the flying rudder on 701/601 types. The hinge
configuration being low and close together needs to be considered for
stress and what effect the change could have on flutter susceptibility..
Carl 701
Message 7
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Jack,
The HDS wing cuts convective better than the HD wing, but the climb rate
for the HD wing is something a HDS wing can't compete with.
If I lived at altitude or in the mountains, I'd be building a set of HD
wings for certain. It's an interesting question, choosing wings for
speed or climbing capability.
Larry McFarland
jackandval wrote:
>
> I have a 601 HDS and live in the mountains . I can tell you that the HDS gets
bounced around a lot and find it hard to believe that you would gain anything
by changing wings.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159184#159184
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: N701ZZ 1st flight (Jab 3300 w/retractable slats) |
Beautiful plane Jim!
Please do keep us posted, while I can't afford the Jab I still like to find out
more about it.
I also like to idea of the Pegastol wings, but I don't know if they are worth (in
my case) the extra time, weight and cost. But they sure are cool!
Kevin
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159237#159237
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: N701ZZ 1st flight (Jab 3300 w/retractable slats) |
Will do. Thanks you. Jim
On Jan 19, 2008, at 10:37 AM, kmccune wrote:
>
> Beautiful plane Jim!
>
> Please do keep us posted, while I can't afford the Jab I still like
> to find out more about it.
>
> I also like to idea of the Pegastol wings, but I don't know if they
> are worth (in my case) the extra time, weight and cost. But they
> sure are cool!
>
> Kevin
>
> --------
> Kevin
> N701DZ Reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159237#159237
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: rudder position light |
I recently received approval from Zenith to place the tail light lower on the rudder
than called for, maybe an inch or so above the intersection of the bottom
two ribs. I wanted to do this for appearances only. I just happen to think
it looks better closer to the bottom. Doesn't seem to be a big deal to place
it where you want.
Burke Johnson
CH701
Irvington, VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159257#159257
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: rudder cam...how big is too big? |
I agree that adding even a small camcorder to the rudder is too much. You also
have to deal with things such as temperature change & humidity, not to mention
the 100+ mph breeze - You may come back from a flight and find most or all of
your camera missing.
Another minor issue with the rudder cam is if you apply rudder pressure the camera
turns away from the direction of flight. In addition, the small cameras that
have been used in such applications typically do not deal with extremes of
lighting very well and have shutter speeds that are too slow for such applications.
If it were me, I would mount a small camcorder high in the canopy and
use a wide angle lens attachment... that way you could see both what he airplane
is doing and what the instruments are showing.
BTW - in the plane I use a Sony HDR-HC1. I've never had it stop recording from
vibration and believe me when I tell you that my 1946 Champ vibrates...
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159261#159261
Message 12
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On the Horz. Stab. the plans call for a fairlead to go in the cutout of
top skin. My question is what is this fairlead 7C5-1 and what do you
make it out of.
Scratch building 701
CREATIVE SIGNWORKS
1168 Byron Rd.
Kaufman, Tx 75142
John & Mindy Short
972-962-7464
Cell: 214-240-3815
www.creative-sign-works.com
creativesigns@embarqmail.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Rudder Tip Rib Help |
or just go to eBay and buy what ever you want in the way of a rawhide mallet for
less. The lead straps used to finish the flanges may be a bigger problem - maybe
strap solder?
Thanks
do not archive
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159183#159183
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
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| Subject: | 701 Elevator Cable Balancing |
Last week I reported the tendency of my control stick to pull to the left
during my initial flights. I am pleased to report that I have solved the
issue using only the recommended bungee. I kept experimenting with
different elevator cable tension until I had the cables tensioned as
tightly as possible without causing any binding on full right stick
deflection. At this point the cables are loose, far too slack to be
acceptable. Next, I added a bungee, trying different lengths and
different vertical L-angle locations to find the one that would tighten
both cables to acceptable levels at full right and full left deflections.
The bungee tightens the cables nicely, but it also adds tension to the
cables when using left stick deflection. This balances the stick forces,
since the cables naturally tighten with right stick deflection and are
tightened by the bungee with left stick deflection.
I added the bungee on the right side of the fuselage to the short L-angle
which goes from the back of the baggage compartment down to the bottom of
the fuselage. It attaches to the uppermost elevator cable (which travels
back to the bottom elevator horn attachment. No bungee on the lower
elevator cable that travels back to the upper elevator horn attachment. I
also had to enlarge the U-shaped cutout on the L-angle just in front of
the lower elevator horn attachment since the bungee pulled the down
elevator cable more to the right, enough so that it scraped the L-angle
on the side. It took two days of working at it, but I am very pleased
with the control stick forces and balance I now have.
Thanks to all who responded with suggestions.
Jeff Beachy
N701N, Flying Phase One Hours
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Holding Nose up |
Stan
Thank you very much for your post. No flames here. I think you're onto something
good.
It really got me to thinking about the aerodynamics of the horizontal stabilizer.
Please indulge me while I ramble about this.
ZAC told me that the stabilizer airfoil is symetrical. Since the stabilizer exerts
a downward force to balance the moment of the engine around the aircraft cg,
the symetrical airfoil must be angled slightly downward to generate a downward
force with neutral trim. After touchdown, with the nose up, the stabilizer
would be angled upward, generating an upward force that would rotate the A/C
around the mains, pushing the nose down. So, to hold the nose up after touchdown,
you would need to pull the stick aft, forcing the elevator up. And, what
Stan is saying, is that VGs on the underside of the stabilizer will increase up-elevator
effectiveness (apparently) by reducing boundary layer separation on
the bottom of the elevator. That all makes sense to me now.
So, I would like to ask Stan the usual questions, how many VG's? Where are they
on the stab? Do you have any photos? Thank you for posting your experience.
This is a very interesting subject.
Terry
-----Original message-----
From: Stanley Challgren challgren@mac.com
Subject: Zenith-List: Holding Nose up
>
> Andy Shontz:
>
> You asked;
>
> "One thing, it appears as though on landing the nose comes down pretty
> quick. I think other people have noted this one their XLs as well. Is
> it fairly difficult to hold the nose up once the mains hit?"
>
> I assume the XL is similar to the HDS and it was impossible to hold
> the nose up on ours after touchdown. We solved that problem by
> placing VG's on the bottom side of the horizontal stabilizer. With
> the VG's there, you could aerodynamic brake down to about 20 mph.
>
> Your other question:
>
> " I was thinking a tail skid of some sort might be a good idea when I
> get around to building the fuselage, to not only protect the fuselage
> but also the rudder."
>
> The HDS had a very effective tail skid in the tie down ring. I
> discovered how effective it was when I failed to ask my BFR check
> pilot how much he weighed. I had planned on 170# and after grinding
> down the tail skid on takeoff I found he weighed 240#.
>
> Stan
>
> p.s. Let the flames began.
>
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail is finished; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 16
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I'm using 1/8 inch nylon from Aircraft Spruce. I
can't piture exactly what the fairlead your refering
to looks like right now as the plans are in my -30 Deg
C shop. The fairlead should be a piece of the nylon
(plastic) with a hole drilled into it for the cable
and it will be riveted in place.
Hope this asnwers your question.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not Archive
--- John Short <creativesigns@embarqmail.com> wrote:
> On the Horz. Stab. the plans call for a fairlead to
> go in the cutout of top skin. My question is what is
> this fairlead 7C5-1 and what do you make it out of.
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 17
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| Subject: | Rib forming questions |
Hope you scratch builders out there can help.
Firstly, those joggles again... I have cutouts in the form blocks for them, but
if I hammer them down while in the form blocks, the step created by the joggle
tends to push material outwards, thus flattening and reducing the radius of
the flange in that area. Please see attached images.
The Construction Standards say no radius smaller than 1.5mm, so I may be okay here,
what do you think?
Also, one joggle I made was too long. Is it acceptable to flatten it out and re-do
it, or is this too much panel beating for 6061-T6? Do I need to make the rib
again?
Next, on the Scratchbuilding Basics DVD, David demonstrates trimming some metal
off the ends of the flanges where they touch in the corners... how much clearance
should there be in those corners?
And lastly, I've watched the Homebuilt Help DVDs umpteen times... very good by
the way... the method Mark uses for removing bows in the ribs, by tweaking the
crimps works well when the middle of the rib is high when placed on a flat surface,
but what about when the ends are high? I have been putting them back in
the form blocks and running along the flange again with a mallet, but it is a
bit time consuming. Is there another way?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Glenn
--------
Glenn Andressen
601XL- just started.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159334#159334
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/joggle_detail_3_103.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/joggle_detail_2_982.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/joggle_detail_833.jpg
Message 18
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a fairlead is a plastic or other smooth hard surfaced guide and bearing for
control cables to slide through. Often several attached to bulkheads and
other structure in the open rear fuselage to guide the cables as they control
the rear (or in the wing for ailerons) control surfaces. Can be used with any
cable system.
Cheers,
Bob Archibald
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
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