Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:26 AM - Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation (chris Sinfield)
2. 02:20 AM - Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation (GLJSOJ1)
3. 02:34 AM - Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation (geather)
4. 02:53 AM - Re: Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation (Juan Vega)
5. 05:21 AM - Re: Overtrimmed airleron (ashontz)
6. 05:49 AM - 601 hds parts needed (Bill Flick)
7. 07:32 AM - Re: 601 hds parts needed (LarryMcFarland)
8. 08:55 AM - Sun-N-Fun BBQ 08 (ZodieRocket)
9. 10:05 AM - Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation (DaveG601XL)
10. 12:59 PM - Re: Re: Overtrimmed airleron (xl)
11. 01:13 PM - Horiz Stab Connection (Jaybannist@cs.com)
12. 01:58 PM - Rudder nose skin void (Jaybannist@cs.com)
13. 02:00 PM - Re: Horiz Stab Connection (GLJSOJ1)
14. 02:18 PM - Re: 701 Avionics Cooling (txpilot)
15. 02:19 PM - Re: Horiz Stab Connection (Juan Vega)
16. 02:23 PM - Re: Horiz Stab Connection (Bryan Martin)
17. 02:42 PM - Re: 701 Avionics Cooling (Gig Giacona)
18. 04:06 PM - Re: Rudder nose skin void (Larry H)
19. 04:40 PM - Re: Rudder nose skin void (LarryMcFarland)
20. 05:15 PM - Re: Re: 701 Avionics Cooling (THOMAS SMALL)
21. 05:50 PM - Re: Re: 701 Avionics Cooling (John Marzulli)
22. 05:55 PM - Re: 701 Avionics Cooling (Tim Juhl)
23. 07:45 PM - Re: Re: 701 Avionics Cooling (NYTerminat@aol.com)
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| Subject: | Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation |
I guess there must be a lot of XL's flying without Aileron Balance cables installed?
I just what to get it right before I turn my Fuse side into swiss cheese.
Have those who have done this put the side hole up against the seat back or parallel
to the middle balance fairlead hole.
Chris
Do Not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162646#162646
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| Subject: | Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation |
Hi Chris
I am not up and flying yet, but I have got the fairleads installed. The reason
the fuselage holes are where they are is to run the cables through the holes
in the ribs to the bell crank, and the reason the balance fairlead is close up
against the seat back is you need to have the cable clear 6B-17-1 which supports
the control torque tube. So yes, you need to have the cable angled to clear
everything . I found that there is a lot of "stuff" all crossing just behind
the seats.
--------
601XL N676L reserved
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
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| Subject: | Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation |
Chris
This is how its done on the Quick Build Kit
Geoff Eather (Mt Hutton)
--------
ge
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| Subject: | Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation |
follow the plans exactly when drilling thhe holes in the fuselage. you can install
the balance fairld, after the wings are on and the other cables have been
run through the plane. you will be able to see clearly once everything else
is in place when to put the balance fairlead.
Just folow the prints. the plans show very well where to drill.
-----Original Message-----
>From: chris Sinfield <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>Sent: Feb 6, 2008 4:17 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation
>
>
>I guess there must be a lot of XL's flying without Aileron Balance cables installed?
>
>I just what to get it right before I turn my Fuse side into swiss cheese.
>
>Have those who have done this put the side hole up against the seat back or parallel
to the middle balance fairlead hole.
>
>Chris
>
>Do Not archive
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162646#162646
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Overtrimmed airleron |
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Can you cut the hinge at the correct angle?
Yeah, I was going to do that, just wondering if anyone else made this same mistake
and how they made it look ok. I doubt that little angle on the end is providing
much strength. It'll just look a little funny unless I come up with a way
to make it not look like an imbalanced mistake.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162661#162661
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| Subject: | 601 hds parts needed |
need cowl and mt for subaru into 601 hds and also seat belts. thanks
bill
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| Subject: | Re: 601 hds parts needed |
What kind of Subaru do you have Bill? Is it an EA81 by Stratus, or RAM
or basic
block to be converted or what?
The type and conversion are needed to provide you a best answer.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
Bill Flick wrote:
> need cowl and mt for subaru into 601 hds and also seat belts. thanks
> bill
> *
>
>
> *
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| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun BBQ 08 |
Webmasters Sun-N-Fun BBQ 08
Last year was the largest event ever !
In the first week of registration I had over 80 people signed up,
Sun-N-Fun 2007 was the Biggest Zenith event ever !! With over 200 people
in attendence
Welcome to the 2008 BBQ sign up, Please take the time to visit HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch601.org/"www.ch601.org and HYPERLINK
"http://www.ch701.com/"www.ch701.com for the sign up sheet. This will
be for your name tag and will be your ticket for the cooks to provide
you with a great dinner. Plus this event is getting very large and I
need an idea on how much food to buy so that we feed everyone and don't
run out! Lets make it bigger this year, I have more give a ways, the
first 50 people with a pre-registered name badge will receive a gift.
Limit one per family please.
Thanks cdngoose
Don=92t Miss Sun-N-Fun 2008 Thursday April 10th 2008
2/6/2008 9:13 AM
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: XL Aileron balance cable instalation |
Chris,
I am not flying yet either, but I have had the wings on and all control cables
attached. I drilled my aileron fairlead holes per the drawing 6-B-22 dated 02/05.
The balance cable hole ended up not being as close to 6-B-5 as shown on
the drawing so I did elongate my hole a bit to move the cable further forward.
I probably could have left it as originally cut. Here is a picture of the right
side without the side skin fairleads in place.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail & wings completed and
fueslage pretty well done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162713#162713
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuselage_244_160.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Overtrimmed airleron |
I made the same mistake on both ailerons.
I didn't see the mistake until I fit ailerons to the wings.
I took a piece of scrap wide enough to get a rivet in on
each side. No one has noticed the patch until I point it out.
(or they've been polite)
The fix is not very noticable. In the polishing2.jpg the line
is barely visible just to the right of the first rivet. The
patch appears to be the width of the rivet head, but it is ~1/2".
I think that the mistake would be more noticable withou the patch.
It's easier to see a gap in the edge than a line in the hinge.
It's the only picture that I can find that shows the patch.
I see if my camera still works, if it does I'll get a closeup.
On Tue, 5 Feb 2008, ashontz wrote:
>
> Good to know I'm not the only one. LOL. Did you cut the other one the
> same say to make it 'even' and add a trim piece to that too?
>
> Do you have a better picture? I can't really see the fix.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> xl(at)prosody.org wrote:
>> I did the same thing.
>> For aestetics, I included a trim piece.
>> http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/polishing2.jpg
>> Can you tell?
>>
>> Joe E @ BFI
>> N633Z, 504 hours
>> Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 64x49 wood prop
>> http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 4 Feb 2008, ashontz wrote:
>>> I overtrimmed my right aileron on the outside. I don't know what I was
>>> thinking, just not watching the plans. Instead of following the angled
>>> line on the very tip so that it would meet up with the wing edge I
>>> trimmed it straight at the front of the aileron where the tip rib meets
>>> the hinge.
>>>
>>> The mess up basically only cut off about a 1/2 inch of the very front
>>> edge of the outside tip of the aileron, so instead of a angled line that
>>> meets the wing rear edge it's now a stright line that meets the rear of
>>> the wing about 1/2 inch in.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking it's probably ok and the angled cut on the hinge itself
>>> will make it barely noticable. Any ideas? I'm thinking this is probably
>>> not critical, only aestetic.
>>> Andy Shontz
>>> CH601XL - Corvair
>>> www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
>>> do not archive
>>
>
>
> --------
> Andy Shontz
> CH601XL - Corvair
> www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162495#162495
>
>
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| Subject: | Horiz Stab Connection |
I am in the process of final assembly of my 601XL. This morning, I installed the
horizontal stabilizer. I have all four bolts in place and the nuts on the
two rear bolts. The two forward bolts go through the vertical mounting angles
on the stab. The inboard leg of that angle blocks direct access to the bolt
ends where the nuts must go. The hole between the fuselage skin and the mounting
bracket is too small to get access to the nut. Any helpful hints on getting
those nuts installed?
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Message 12
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| Subject: | Rudder nose skin void |
Several weeks ago, there was a string about filling the void at the bottom of the
rudder nose skin. My fiberglass rudder saddle fairing slips under the rear
top fuselage skin. With the rudder in place, I found that I needed to shove
the saddle to the rear, into that rudder void in order to get the saddle far enough
rearward to slip under the fuselage skin. If I had filled that void, I
would have to remove the rudder to get the saddle in place.
This is just a "watch out" for those yet to reach this place in the assembly.
Your situation may be different, but look ahead!
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Horiz Stab Connection |
Hi Jay
I mounted my stab bolts from the inside, I put them in with a socket and a long
extension, which is slender enough to slip between the stab and fuselage sides
from the opposite side. Then put the washer and nut on the outside. This way
I was able to get the bolt in and well as monitor the nut with a easy visual
inspection. I usually get the wife to help me so there are two sets of eyes.
--------
601XL N676L reserved
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
Read this topic online here:
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Avionics Cooling |
Thanks to all who replied. Good point regarding the moisture.
I've decided a small computer fan in the top skin would be in order. Even though
it's solid state avionics, the KX155 instruction manuals emphasize some type
of cooling system is required. I figure a $20 fan from Radio Shack could probably
save me the cost of radio repairs later.
Thanks again,
Dan Ginty
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162744#162744
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| Subject: | Re: Horiz Stab Connection |
use a magnetic pen and a drop of RTV to hold the bolt. I preferred the nut out
ward scen so that I can monitor on inspection.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jaybannist@cs.com
>Sent: Feb 6, 2008 4:10 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Horiz Stab Connection
>
>
>I am in the process of final assembly of my 601XL. This morning, I installed
the horizontal stabilizer. I have all four bolts in place and the nuts on the
two rear bolts. The two forward bolts go through the vertical mounting angles
on the stab. The inboard leg of that angle blocks direct access to the bolt
ends where the nuts must go. The hole between the fuselage skin and the mounting
bracket is too small to get access to the nut. Any helpful hints on getting
those nuts installed?
>
>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Horiz Stab Connection |
I also installed the bolts with the heads on the inside so the nuts
could be installed on the outside. It makes it easier to torque and
inspect the nuts. I did the same thing with the rear wing bolts.
On Feb 6, 2008, at 4:10 PM, Jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
>
> I am in the process of final assembly of my 601XL. This morning, I
> installed the horizontal stabilizer. I have all four bolts in place
> and the nuts on the two rear bolts. The two forward bolts go
> through the vertical mounting angles on the stab. The inboard leg
> of that angle blocks direct access to the bolt ends where the nuts
> must go. The hole between the fuselage skin and the mounting
> bracket is too small to get access to the nut. Any helpful hints on
> getting those nuts installed?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Avionics Cooling |
And it will act as defogger.
txpilot wrote:
> Thanks to all who replied. Good point regarding the moisture.
>
> I've decided a small computer fan in the top skin would be in order. Even though
it's solid state avionics, the KX155 instruction manuals emphasize some type
of cooling system is required. I figure a $20 fan from Radio Shack could
probably save me the cost of radio repairs later.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Dan Ginty
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162749#162749
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder nose skin void |
That's WHY I built it without questioning the plans. There are usually reasons
WHY we are supposed to build according to the print. This is most likely ONE
OF THOSE REASONS. I would say once I've built a half dozen of airplanes and
started designing them, then I might question it. Another thought on building
with extra additions is the weight factor. If you want to stay within the Light
Sport class, an extra pound here and a pound there DOES add up quickly.
LH
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder nose skin void |
You're very correct Jay, about getting the piece rearward enough to fit
under the rear fuselage skin. I closed the rudder base and left
approximately 5mm clearance to get a
proper fit. It does help to spread the saddle when going rearward in
light contact with the rudder. This will give you the distance needed
to clear the front saddle edge.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/ruddernose.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/rudder/full/rudderfairing.gif
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
>
> Several weeks ago, there was a string about filling the void at the bottom of
the rudder nose skin. My fiberglass rudder saddle fairing slips under the rear
top fuselage skin. With the rudder in place, I found that I needed to shove
the saddle to the rear, into that rudder void in order to get the saddle far
enough rearward to slip under the fuselage skin. If I had filled that void,
I would have to remove the rudder to get the saddle in place.
>
> This is just a "watch out" for those yet to reach this place in the assembly.
Your situation may be different, but look ahead!
>
> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Avionics Cooling |
> I've decided a small computer fan in the top skin would be in order.
...and you have no fear that the magnets in the fan will affect the compass?
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Avionics Cooling |
The system could use a remote mounter compass that is away from
interference.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On Feb 6, 2008 5:11 PM, THOMAS SMALL <tjs22t@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
> > I've decided a small computer fan in the top skin would be in order.
>
> ...and you have no fear that the magnets in the fan will affect the
> compass?
>
> do not archive
>
>
--
John Marzulli
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
"Flying a plane is no different than riding a bicycle... it's just a lot
harder to put baseball cards in the spokes.
-Airplane The Movie
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Avionics Cooling |
Had a KX155 in my 172 for 20+ years, another in my 182 for the 7 years I owned
it... both were part of really full stacks of radios and neither had any kind
of cooling. In the 172 there was a tube type Mark 12 sitting above it. I never
had problems with either installation.
One if the reasons they used to recommend cooling was the fact that radios were
mounted one on top of the other so there was a cumulative heat effect. The 172
had a 4 x 4 inch opening (with a grill) above the stack area that would allow
rising heat to escape. You might consider that for your radios if you are concerned.
I'm going to install a couple of muffin fans forward of the instrument panel to
blow air on the canopy as a defogger. I supposed they could function to draw
heat out from behind the panel but I really don't think that will be much of a
problem.
Tim
do not archive
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162767#162767
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Avionics Cooling |
Dan,
If you are going ahead with a cooling fan, why not buy a real avionics
cooling fan that has the correct size port to fit your avionics? You find them
on
E-Bay at reasonable prices/bids.
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 2/6/2008 5:19:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
djg7@comcast.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "txpilot" <djg7@comcast.net>
Thanks to all who replied. Good point regarding the moisture.
I've decided a small computer fan in the top skin would be in order. Even
though it's solid state avionics, the KX155 instruction manuals emphasize some
type of cooling system is required. I figure a $20 fan from Radio Shack
could probably save me the cost of radio repairs later.
Thanks again,
Dan Ginty
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
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