Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:27 AM - Re: Torque values (Paul Mulwitz)
2. 05:47 AM - paint scheme (John Short)
3. 06:29 AM - Re: Motivational Flying Video for the Week (GLJSOJ1)
4. 07:41 AM - Storing skins (bcchurch)
5. 07:43 AM - Re: paint scheme (Darrell Haas)
6. 07:52 AM - Re: Paint program (Darrell Haas)
7. 07:59 AM - Re: Paint program (pavel569)
8. 08:58 AM - Re: Storing skins (Bryan Martin)
9. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Paint program (ernie)
10. 09:03 AM - Re: Storing skins (ROBERT SCEPPA)
11. 09:14 AM - Re: Paint program (Jaybannist@cs.com)
12. 09:57 AM - Re: Torque values (Sabrina)
13. 09:57 AM - Re: Storing skins (n801bh@netzero.com)
14. 11:14 AM - Re: Re: Torque values (n801bh@netzero.com)
15. 11:14 AM - Re: Storing skins (Larry H)
16. 11:43 AM - Re: Torque values (Sabrina)
17. 12:08 PM - Re: Torque values (Sabrina)
18. 12:13 PM - Re: Storing skins (Jaybannist@cs.com)
19. 12:25 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (Craig Payne)
20. 12:28 PM - Re: Storing skins (Craig Payne)
21. 12:56 PM - Re: Torque values (Sabrina)
22. 12:56 PM - Re: Storing skins (Larry H)
23. 01:39 PM - Re: Storing skins (Jaybannist@cs.com)
24. 01:50 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (Bryan Martin)
25. 01:50 PM - Re: Storing skins (Ron Lendon)
26. 01:57 PM - Re: Storing skins (Bryan Martin)
27. 02:42 PM - Re: Storing skins (MaxNr@aol.com)
28. 02:43 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (Jeyoung65@aol.com)
29. 02:45 PM - Re: Storing skins (Craig Payne)
30. 02:48 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (Terry Phillips)
31. 02:53 PM - Re: Storing skins (LHusky@aol.com)
32. 04:07 PM - Re: Storing skins (Jaybannist@cs.com)
33. 04:20 PM - Re: Storing skins (Craig Payne)
34. 05:11 PM - XL / Jabiru Dual throttles (Tim Juhl)
35. 05:34 PM - Re: Storing skins (Gig Giacona)
36. 05:44 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (Brad Cohen)
37. 06:00 PM - Re: Re: Storing skins (Craig Payne)
38. 06:05 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (n801bh@netzero.com)
39. 06:10 PM - Re: Motivational Flying Video for the Week (leinad)
40. 06:27 PM - Re: Motivational Flying Video for the Week (rlalonde)
41. 06:29 PM - Re: Storing skins (bcchurch)
42. 06:29 PM - Re: Storing skins (n801bh@netzero.com)
43. 06:31 PM - Re: Re: Storing skins (Jaybannist@cs.com)
44. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: Torque values (n801bh@netzero.com)
45. 07:46 PM - KR2 / ea-81 / avionics / instruments / corvair parts for sale (Brandon Tucker)
46. 09:07 PM - Re: XL / Jabiru Dual throttles (Jeff)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Hi Brad,
Yes, inch pounds are 1/12 as much as foot pounds.
I found that lighter strength torque wrenches are calibrated in inch
pounds and heavier ones in foot pounds. That means you can
(apparently) resolve the torque on smaller bolts to one half of an
inch pound and on larger bolts to one half of a foot pound. You may
find it a better choice to have one torque wrench calibrated in each unit.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 02:48 PM 2/16/2008, you wrote:
>I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am
>curious about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts.
>Specifically for the rudder lateral and center bearings, rudder
>pedal brackets, etc. My copy of the standard aircraft handbook says
>that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt should be tightened to 160 to 190
>inch pounds, and my beam-style torque wrench is in foot pounds. I
>ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160 by 12 to get 13.3333(etc)
>foot/pounds, which is what I should read off the wrench.
>Any thoughts?
>
>
>Brad Cohen
>XL/TD, slow-build kit
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Drawings for paint scheme attached.
John
Scratch building 701
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| Subject: | Re: Motivational Flying Video for the Week |
Scott
Thanks, I just got in from working overnight, I'm cold, and now I just have to
go out and do something to the bird
Thanks for you videos :)
--------
601XL N676L reserved
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164548#164548
Message 4
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I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions about storing
the large fuselage and wing skins.
Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper or should
the paper be removed?
Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls and keep
them that way for months to years?
What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to store
skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm particularly interested
to hear how other builders have overcome the space issue with the skins.
My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is resting on saw-horses
so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any clear answers.
One person stated that they removed all skins from the paper and applied
corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to this amount of
effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12 sheets of 0.040
and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done for long times without
the sheets taking a shape.
I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
Thanks,
Ben Church
do not archive
--------
Ben Church
CH801
Racine, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164564#164564
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| Subject: | Re: paint scheme |
Thank you all for the paint pictures but I'm working on a 601XL.
Darrell
do not archive
On Feb 17, 2008 5:42 AM, John Short <creativesigns@embarqmail.com> wrote:
> Drawings for paint scheme attached.
>
>
> John
> Scratch building 701
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Paint program |
Good idea. I never could draw a straight line with the draw programs anyway.
Darrell
do not archive
On Feb 16, 2008 6:39 PM, ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Years ago, we had a contest in my chapter to see
> > who could come up with a color scheme for my friend
> > homebuilt. You don't need a pc program to do it.
> > Just have the outline of the plane side, front, top
> > and make a dozen copies or so and color them
> > yourself with color pencils.
> --- Darrell Haas <darrellhaas@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Has anyone designed a computer program using a
> > picture of a 601XL where you
> > can try different colors and designs to help you
> > decide what colors and /or
> > designs you might want on your plane? It would be
> > fun on those stormy nights
> > to try different color combinations before I
> > actually have to make a
> > decision on what to use.
> > Darrell Haas
> > 601XL
> > N723DD reserved
> >
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Paint program |
Darrell,
I'm still far away from choosing the paint scheme but what I did is that I've downloaded
a 3-view from Zenith website, converted it to jpeg file and then you
can do pretty much anything you want with it in any graphic program, even Windows's
Paint.
> [Has anyone designed a computer program using a picture of a 601XL where you
can try different colors and designs to help you decide what colors and /or designs
you might want on your plane? It would be fun on those stormy nights to
try different color combinations before I actually have to make a decision on
what to use.]
--------
Pavel
CA
Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164574#164574
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
As long as you're storing them in a dry place, you shouldn't have any
problems storing them in rolled up in the brown paper. If in doubt,
you could go the the sporting goods store and get some desiccant packs
to seal up with the skins to keep them dry. The sheets won't
permanently change shape unless you roll them past their elastic limit
and this happens pretty much immediately, not over a period of time.
I stored my completed wings for a over a year on a shelf built just
below the ceiling in my dad's garage. I covered all the openings in
the wings with metal screen to keep the critters from making nests in
them. I built the plane from partial kits in a 24' by 8 1/2' cargo
trailer, so I know about space challenged. I stored everything under
the work table or some corner of the trailer until needed. When I
completed one wing, I hung it on the side wall while I was working on
the other.
On Feb 17, 2008, at 10:38 AM, bcchurch wrote:
>
> I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some
> questions about storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>
> Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping
> paper or should the paper be removed?
>
> Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter
> rolls and keep them that way for months to years?
>
> What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged"
> builder to store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage
> space") I'm particularly interested to hear how other builders have
> overcome the space issue with the skins. My work table is based on
> Gary Liming's design and is resting on saw-horses so I can't have a
> full-length shelf under the table.
>
> I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding
> any clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins
> from the paper and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if
> others have gone to this amount of effort. I've also read some
> posts about rolling entire 4x12 sheets of 0.040 and there seems to
> be some debate about if this can be done for long times without the
> sheets taking a shape.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Paint program |
I tried Google sketchup, once but did not get to far.
http://sketchup.google.com/
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=311c55771729b02d52462d4d5ca27dbd&prevstart=0
The nice thing is you could drop it in google earth.
Do not archive.
On Feb 17, 2008 10:56 AM, pavel569 <pm569@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Darrell,
> I'm still far away from choosing the paint scheme but what I did is that
> I've downloaded a 3-view from Zenith website, converted it to jpeg file and
> then you can do pretty much anything you want with it in any graphic
> program, even Windows's Paint.
>
>
> > [Has anyone designed a computer program using a picture of a 601XL where
> you can try different colors and designs to help you decide what colors and
> /or designs you might want on your plane? It would be fun on those stormy
> nights to try different color combinations before I actually have to make a
> decision on what to use.]
>
>
> --------
> Pavel
> CA
> Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164574#164574
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
> Not a good idea to keep the paper on. I had some
> 2024 wrapped with paper and somehow moisture got on
> the aluminum and I had to scrap it. Just keep it in
> a warm dry place. Do not archive.
--- bcchurch <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
> <bcchurch@yahoo.com>
>
> I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and
> have some questions about storing the large fuselage
> and wing skins.
>
> Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in
> the brown shipping paper or should the paper be
> removed?
>
> Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to
> 3 ft diameter rolls and keep them that way for
> months to years?
>
> What advice would you have for the
> "storage-space-challenged" builder to store skins?
> (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
> particularly interested to hear how other builders
> have overcome the space issue with the skins. My
> work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is
> resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length
> shelf under the table.
>
> I've searched the archives but didn't have too much
> luck in finding any clear answers. One person
> stated that they removed all skins from the paper
> and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if
> others have gone to this amount of effort. I've
> also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
> sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate
> about if this can be done for long times without the
> sheets taking a shape.
>
> I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben Church
>
> do not archive
>
> --------
> Ben Church
> CH801
> Racine, WI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164564#164564
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Paint program |
"Darrell Haas" <darrellhaas@gmail.com> wrote:
>Good idea. I never could draw a straight line with the draw programs anyway.
>Darrell
>do not archive
>
>On Feb 16, 2008 6:39 PM, ROBERT SCEPPA <rjscep@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> > Years ago, we had a contest in my chapter to see
>> > who could come up with a color scheme for my friend
>> > homebuilt. You don't need a pc program to do it.
>> > Just have the outline of the plane side, front, top
>> > and make a dozen copies or so and color them
>> > yourself with color pencils.
>> --- Darrell Haas <darrellhaas@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Has anyone designed a computer program using a
>> > picture of a 601XL where you
>> > can try different colors and designs to help you
>> > decide what colors and /or
>> > designs you might want on your plane? It would be
>> > fun on those stormy nights
>> > to try different color combinations before I
>> > actually have to make a
>> > decision on what to use.
>> > Darrell Haas
>> > 601XL
>> > N723DD reserved
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
"I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am curious
about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for the rudder
lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of the
standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt should
be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160 by 12 to get
13.3333(etc) foot"
Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing attach bolts
are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque values given by Zenith
are based upon the shank size or AN number not the physical size of the socket
needed to torque it. Correct?
Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6! (3/8") So too,
the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque values since they control
the amount of "grip" or resistance encountered when operating the pedals and
are adjusted after the nose gear and rigging are installed. Just snug until
then.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164604#164604
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
>From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big i
ssue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratch
es but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to kee
p all water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the alumi
num will get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a bla
st building mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and
gals are the GREATEST !!!!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions ab
out storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping pap
er or should the paper be removed?
Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls
and keep them that way for months to years?
What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to
store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm parti
cularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the space is
sue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and
is resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the t
able.
I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the p
aper and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gon
e to this amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling ent
ire 4x12 sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this
can be done for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
Thanks,
Ben Church
do not archive
--------
Ben Church
CH801
Racine, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164564#164564
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
these are pretty basic questions about torque. I read somewhere you buil
t a "sabrina" motor... Didn't you learn the basics about bolt torque dur
ing that process???
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Sabrina" <chicago2paris@msn.com> wrote:
"I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am curiou
s
about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for the ru
dder
lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of the
standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt should
be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160 by
12 to get 13.3333(etc) foot"
Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing atta
ch bolts are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque values g
iven by Zenith are based upon the shank size or AN number not the physi
cal size of the socket needed to torque it. Correct?
Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6! (3/8")
So too, the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque values si
nce they control the amount of "grip" or resistance encountered when ope
rating the pedals and are adjusted after the nose gear and rigging are i
nstalled. Just snug until then.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164604#164604
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I thought
I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to store their wings.
I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I put my plane in
storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the plane and wings
in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at least....I'm open for suggestions
also.
"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big issue
is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches but is a
wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all water off on
them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will get a surface
corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building mine and it goes
without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the GREATEST !!!!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions about storing
the large fuselage and wing skins.
Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper or should
the paper be removed?
Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls and keep
them that way for months to years?
What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to store
skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm particularly interested
to hear how other builders have overcome the space issue with the skins.
My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is resting on saw-horses
so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any clear answers.
One person stated that they removed all skins from the paper and applied
corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to this amount of
effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12 sheets of 0.040
and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done for long times without
the sheets taking a shape.
I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
Thanks,
Ben Church
do not archive
--------
Ben Church
CH801
Racine, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p================================================================================================; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
_================================================ ===========================================
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Ben, it was a rhetorical question, sorry you did not catch that. Roger at Zenith
says the number one problem he has encountered is the over-torquing of the
AN3 bolts. Torque the three bolts for 6-B-9 (4) down to 190 inch pounds and you
will not have much fun landing that aircraft in a crosswind.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164626#164626
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Haas International Airstrip (2WY3)
4 Miles North of Merna, Wyoming
Owner: Ben Haas
Do not confuse the airstrip with a nearby paved, lighted runway that is over 6,000
in length.
I wish I owned an International Airport! Ben, how does your 801 fly? What torque
value would YOU recommend the for the "central pedal bearing?
If Roger had not said this exact issue is THE NUMBER ONE problem, I would not have
replied.
Sabrina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164631#164631
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Larry,
You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look forward
to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wiring connections,
pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then hooking them
up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the first time, but not
over and over again. I'd just look for another winter storage solution. (Easy
for me to say, since I live in Texas)
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I thought
I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to store their wings.
I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I put my plane
in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the plane and wings
in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at least....I'm open for suggestions
also.
>
>
>
>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big issue
is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches but is
a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all water off
on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will get a surface
corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building mine and it goes
without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the GREATEST !!!!!!
> do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions about storing
the large fuselage and wing skins.
>
>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper or
should the paper be removed?
>
>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls and keep
them that way for months to years?
>
>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to store
skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm particularly interested
to hear how other builders have overcome the space issue with the skins.
My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is resting on saw-horses
so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>
>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any clear
answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the paper and applied
corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to this amount of
effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12 sheets of 0.040
and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done for long times without
the sheets taking a shape.
>
>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ben Church
>
>do not archive
>
>--------
>Ben Church
>CH801
>Racine, WI
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p================================================================================================; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>_================================================ ===========================================
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Odd that "THE NUMBER ONE problem" doesn't appear to be addressed anywhere in
the plans or assembly guide. I just checked both. Did I miss something?
Certainly the pedals were stiff on my QBK. But it didn't help that ZAC
painted the whole assembly including the section where the bearing blocks
ride. I guess they compensated for this by using bolts that were too short
through the bearing blocks. The threads didn't even engage the nylon in the
self-locking nuts.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sabrina
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:03 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Torque values
Haas International Airstrip (2WY3)
4 Miles North of Merna, Wyoming
Owner: Ben Haas
Do not confuse the airstrip with a nearby paved, lighted runway that is over
6,000 in length.
I wish I owned an International Airport! Ben, how does your 801 fly?
What torque value would YOU recommend the for the "central pedal bearing?
If Roger had not said this exact issue is THE NUMBER ONE problem, I would
not have replied.
Sabrina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164631#164631
Message 20
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Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storing skins
Larry,
You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look
forward to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wiring
connections, pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then
hooking them up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the
first time, but not over and over again. I'd just look for another winter
storage solution. (Easy for me to say, since I live in Texas)
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I
thought I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to store
their wings. I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I put
my plane in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the
plane and wings in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at
least....I'm open for suggestions also.
>
>
>
>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big
issue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches
but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all
water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will
get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building
mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the
GREATEST !!!!!!
> do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions about
storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>
>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper
or should the paper be removed?
>
>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls
and keep them that way for months to years?
>
>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to
store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
particularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the space
issue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is
resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>
>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the paper
and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to this
amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done
for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
>
>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ben Church
>
>do not archive
>
>--------
>Ben Church
>CH801
>Racine, WI
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p===============================
================================================================; -
MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>_===============================================
===========================================
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
now.
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Not just the pedal bearing, but AN3 overall... so I am told. I bet it has more
to do with their lawyers telling them not to spec all the torques and rely
upon industry standards rather than anything else. However, when I saw the "3/8"
bolt mentioned for an AN3 application, it just concerned me that the replies
before me did not mention that it is a 3/16 not a 3/8 bolt. I could have
been more clear in my reply too. The danger here is when someone uses the
wrong size torque wrench (as mentioned above). A lot of unnecessary stress can
be placed on the assembly. The fear that was expressed by Zenith was that the
owner does not often know how much damage he did until it is too late. (Calling
AN3-15 or longer hardware a "spring" is a good analogy--have you sprung
the spring?)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164647#164647
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
I know what your saying Jay and I honestly don't look forward to it either, but
I'll do what I have to do in order to keep the plane safe and out of the wintertime.
Hail, sleet and windstorms are prevalent around my area here. I WISHED
I could build a hanger right here on my property, but it seems the farmer that
enticed us pilots to build here, now decided he wants to sell off our 4.5
acres end of the airstrip.....of course, all of us (pilots and wanna be pilots)
trusted this man to do as he promised us all when he sold us the lots. We got
a "gentleman's handshake" and that was good enough (at the time). Well, now
since the farmer has sold off all the lots along the strip, he wants to bail
out on us. We are all thinking he THINKS he has us all over a barrel now and
can command an enormous price and we'll have to pay it if we want to fly here.
What he doesn't know is, the gentleman that owes the other half of the (first
1450 feet) strip on the north end, has told us
all we will ALWAYS have a place to keep our planes....just not inside is all.
I am in the works right now to see if the rest of the pilots want to form an
"association" and maybe buy the land OR take this farmer to court. We can tie
him up for years and year if he wants to play hardball now. We'll see I guess.
For now, I'll keep building and hoping for the best. I'll do what I have
to do I guess to keep flying.
Thanks again,
Larry
601XL component kits (N601LL Reserved)
Jaybannist@cs.com wrote:
Larry,
You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look forward
to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wiring connections,
pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then hooking them up
again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the first time, but not
over and over again. I'd just look for another winter storage solution. (Easy
for me to say, since I live in Texas)
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Larry H wrote:
>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I thought
I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to store their wings.
I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I put my plane in
storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the plane and wings
in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at least....I'm open for suggestions
also.
>
>
>
>"n801bh@netzero.com" wrote:
> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big issue
is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches but is a
wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all water off on
them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will get a surface
corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building mine and it goes without
saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the GREATEST !!!!!!
> do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "bcchurch" wrote:
>
>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions about storing
the large fuselage and wing skins.
>
>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper or
should the paper be removed?
>
>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls and keep
them that way for months to years?
>
>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to store
skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm particularly interested
to hear how other builders have overcome the space issue with the skins.
My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is resting on saw-horses so
I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>
>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any clear
answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the paper and applied
corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to this amount of
effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12 sheets of 0.040 and
there seems to be some debate about if this can be done for long times without
the sheets taking a shape.
>
>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ben Church
>
>do not archive
>
>--------
>Ben Church
>CH801
>Racine, WI
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p================================================================================================; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>_================================================ ===========================================
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 23
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|
WOW!!! Now, that's the way to do it! Sure wish our 601s had that kind of wing
attachment. I would probably take the wings off after every flight just for
the fun of it.
Jay in Dallas
do not archive
"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>
>-- Craig
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Jaybannist@cs.com
>Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:09 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storing skins
>
>
>Larry,
>
>You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look
>forward to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wiring
>connections, pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then
>hooking them up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the
>first time, but not over and over again. I'd just look for another winter
>storage solution. (Easy for me to say, since I live in Texas)
>
>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I
>thought I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to store
>their wings. I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I put
>my plane in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the
>plane and wings in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at
>least....I'm open for suggestions also.
>>
>>
>>
>>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
>> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big
>issue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches
>but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all
>water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will
>get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building
>mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the
>GREATEST !!!!!!
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>Ben Haas
>>N801BH
>>www.haaspowerair.com
>>
>>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions about
>storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>>
>>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper
>or should the paper be removed?
>>
>>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls
>and keep them that way for months to years?
>>
>>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to
>store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
>particularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the space
>issue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and is
>resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>>
>>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
>clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the paper
>and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to this
>amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
>sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done
>for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
>>
>>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Ben Church
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>--------
>>Ben Church
>>CH801
>>Racine, WI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p===============================
>================================================================; -
>MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>_===============================================
>===========================================
>>
>>
>>
>>_____________________________________________________________
>>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
>now.
>>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
The proper torque on a bolt is definitely based on the size of the
bolt shank, NOT the size of the head.
On Feb 17, 2008, at 12:54 PM, Sabrina wrote:
>
> "I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am
> curious
> about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for
> the rudder
> lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of
> the
> standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt
> should
> be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
> wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160
> by 12 to get 13.3333(etc) foot"
>
> Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing
> attach bolts are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque
> values given by Zenith are based upon the shank size or AN number
> not the physical size of the socket needed to torque it. Correct?
>
> Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6!
> (3/8") So too, the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque
> values since they control the amount of "grip" or resistance
> encountered when operating the pedals and are adjusted after the
> nose gear and rigging are installed. Just snug until then.
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Here is how I store my 4' x 12 ' sheets.
http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=9945&row=478
It was one of the first things I did to prepare the facilities.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164658#164658
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
2024 on the unclad side is a lot less corrosion resistant than 6061,
but moisture is not good for either.
>
>
>> Not a good idea to keep the paper on. I had some
>> 2024 wrapped with paper and somehow moisture got on
>> the aluminum and I had to scrap it. Just keep it in
>> a warm dry place. Do not archive.
> --- bcchurch <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Do some more investigation of Corrosion X. An acquaintance told me that he
later had trouble painting bare aluminum that had been treated with Corrosion X.
Something molecular happened that I'm not smart enough to explain here, but
check further. Good luck.
Bob
601XL
**************
Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Standard torque should be to the nut not the bolt. Also my manual list the
torque for AN-365 nuts on AN-3 should be 20 inch lbs. not 160 to 190 "#.
Jerry of Ga
In a message dated 2/17/2008 4:51:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
bryanmmartin@comcast.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
The proper torque on a bolt is definitely based on the size of the
bolt shank, NOT the size of the head.
On Feb 17, 2008, at 12:54 PM, Sabrina wrote:
>
> "I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am
> curious
> about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for
> the rudder
> lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of
> the
> standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt
> should
> be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
> wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160
> by 12 to get 13.3333(etc) foot"
>
> Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing
> attach bolts are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque
> values given by Zenith are based upon the shank size or AN number
> not the physical size of the socket needed to torque it. Correct?
>
> Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6!
> (3/8") So too, the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque
> values since they control the amount of "grip" or resistance
> encountered when operating the pedals and are adjusted after the
> nose gear and rigging are installed. Just snug until then.
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 29
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|
Like all things the quick-detach wings of the RV-12 have a trade-off: the
fuel tank is in the fuselage (and only 20 gallons).
There is another plane with a similar setup and one owner has a clever
wheeled jig that allows own person to take the wings out of the plane's
trailer, wheel them to the plane, pivot and insert them. Once the RV-12 is
out there in numbers I'm certain someone will adapt the idea to the RV-12.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Storing skins
WOW!!! Now, that's the way to do it! Sure wish our 601s had that kind of
wing attachment. I would probably take the wings off after every flight
just for the fun of it.
Jay in Dallas
do not archive
"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>
>-- Craig
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Jaybannist@cs.com
>Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:09 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storing skins
>
>
>Larry,
>
>You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look
>forward to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wiring
>connections, pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then
>hooking them up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the
>first time, but not over and over again. I'd just look for another winter
>storage solution. (Easy for me to say, since I live in Texas)
>
>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I
>thought I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to
store
>their wings. I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I
put
>my plane in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the
>plane and wings in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at
>least....I'm open for suggestions also.
>>
>>
>>
>>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
>> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big
>issue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches
>but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all
>water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will
>get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building
>mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the
>GREATEST !!!!!!
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>Ben Haas
>>N801BH
>>www.haaspowerair.com
>>
>>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions
about
>storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>>
>>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper
>or should the paper be removed?
>>
>>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls
>and keep them that way for months to years?
>>
>>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to
>store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
>particularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the space
>issue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and
is
>resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>>
>>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
>clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the
paper
>and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to
this
>amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
>sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done
>for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
>>
>>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Ben Church
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>--------
>>Ben Church
>>CH801
>>Racine, WI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p==============================
>================================================================; -
>MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>_===============================================
>===========================================
>>
>>
>>
>>_____________________________________________________________
>>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
>now.
>>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
I am a bit puzzled by your reply, Ben.
This question about torque was posted a day or so ago, and there were
several responses. But Sabrina was the only one who looked carefully at the
issue and realized that the bolts in question were 3/16" AN3 bolts with
3/8" hex heads (with a standard torque of 20-25 in-lbs), not 3/8" AN6 bolts
(with a standard torque of 160-190 in-lbs). When I saw her reply this
morning, I burst out laughing, and immediately told my wife about her post.
There have been several replies to the original post by our older,
experience builders addressing various aspects of the appropriate torque
wrenches to use for 190 ft-lbs of torque. But it took a very bright 16-year
young woman builder to point out that the underlying premise of the whole
question was flawed.
Sabrina, I take my hat off to you. You are super. It looks to me like you
understand not only torque, but are bright enough to realize that the wrong
question had been asked (and answered). Well done!
Terry
At 07:05 PM 2/17/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>these are pretty basic questions about torque. I read somewhere you built
>a "sabrina" motor... Didn't you learn the basics about bolt torque during
>that process???
>
>do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "Sabrina" <chicago2paris@msn.com> wrote:
>
>"I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am curious
>about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for the rudder
>lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of the
>standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt should
>be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
>wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160 by 12
>to get 13.3333(etc) foot"
>
>Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing attach
>bolts are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque values given
>by Zenith are based upon the shank size or AN number not the physical
>size of the socket needed to torque it. Correct?
>
>Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6!
>(3/8") So too, the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque
>values since they control the amount of "grip" or resistance encountered
>when operating the pedals and are adjusted after the nose gear and rigging
>are installed. Just snug until then.
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Ben, I have stored big rolls of skins for long periods. I was worried that
when I unrolled them, I would have trouble flattening them. When I unrolled
them, they went flat instantly. Roll away!
Larry Husky
N667H (reserved)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 32
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Well, all sailplanes have detachable wings and they carry their "fuel" in their
wings ;>) Don't think I would want my fuel tank in the fuselage. Surely someone
could come up with quick disconnects for that and the electricals.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>Like all things the quick-detach wings of the RV-12 have a trade-off: the
>fuel tank is in the fuselage (and only 20 gallons).
>
>There is another plane with a similar setup and one owner has a clever
>wheeled jig that allows own person to take the wings out of the plane's
>trailer, wheel them to the plane, pivot and insert them. Once the RV-12 is
>out there in numbers I'm certain someone will adapt the idea to the RV-12.
>
>-- Craig
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Jaybannist@cs.com
>Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:34 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Storing skins
>
>
>WOW!!! Now, that's the way to do it! Sure wish our 601s had that kind of
>wing attachment. I would probably take the wings off after every flight
>just for the fun of it.
>
>Jay in Dallas
>do not archive
>
>
>"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>>
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>>
>>-- Craig
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>Jaybannist@cs.com
>>Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:09 PM
>>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storing skins
>>
>>
>>Larry,
>>
>>You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look
>>forward to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wiring
>>connections, pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then
>>hooking them up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the
>>first time, but not over and over again. I'd just look for another winter
>>storage solution. (Easy for me to say, since I live in Texas)
>>
>>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>>
>>
>>Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I
>>thought I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to
>store
>>their wings. I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I
>put
>>my plane in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the
>>plane and wings in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at
>>least....I'm open for suggestions also.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
>>> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big
>>issue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratches
>>but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all
>>water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will
>>get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building
>>mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the
>>GREATEST !!!!!!
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>Ben Haas
>>>N801BH
>>>www.haaspowerair.com
>>>
>>>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions
>about
>>storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>>>
>>>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping paper
>>or should the paper be removed?
>>>
>>>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls
>>and keep them that way for months to years?
>>>
>>>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to
>>store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
>>particularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the space
>>issue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and
>is
>>resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>>>
>>>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
>>clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the
>paper
>>and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to
>this
>>amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
>>sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this can be done
>>for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
>>>
>>>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Ben Church
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>--------
>>>Ben Church
>>>CH801
>>>Racine, WI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p==============================
>
>>================================================================; -
>>MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>>_===============================================
>>===========================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>_____________________________________________________________
>>>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>---------------------------------
>>>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
>>now.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 33
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|
You could use quick-connect fuel lines but think of the weight of a wing
with a nearly full tank. Clearly the answer is a hydrogen-powered plane.
That way the tank would have negative weight ;-)
-- Craig
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 5:02 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Storing skins
Well, all sailplanes have detachable wings and they carry their "fuel" in
their wings ;>) Don't think I would want my fuel tank in the fuselage.
Surely someone could come up with quick disconnects for that and the
electricals.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>Like all things the quick-detach wings of the RV-12 have a trade-off: the
>fuel tank is in the fuselage (and only 20 gallons).
>
>There is another plane with a similar setup and one owner has a clever
>wheeled jig that allows own person to take the wings out of the plane's
>trailer, wheel them to the plane, pivot and insert them. Once the RV-12 is
>out there in numbers I'm certain someone will adapt the idea to the RV-12.
>
>-- Craig
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Jaybannist@cs.com
>Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:34 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Storing skins
>
>
>WOW!!! Now, that's the way to do it! Sure wish our 601s had that kind of
>wing attachment. I would probably take the wings off after every flight
>just for the fun of it.
>
>Jay in Dallas
>do not archive
>
>
>"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>>
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>>
>>-- Craig
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>Jaybannist@cs.com
>>Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:09 PM
>>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storing skins
>>
>>
>>Larry,
>>
>>You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look
>>forward to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight
wiring
>>connections, pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and then
>>hooking them up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the
>>first time, but not over and over again. I'd just look for another winter
>>storage solution. (Easy for me to say, since I live in Texas)
>>
>>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>>
>>
>>Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I
>>thought I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to
>store
>>their wings. I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I
>put
>>my plane in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the
>>plane and wings in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at
>>least....I'm open for suggestions also.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
>>> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
>>> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The big
>>issue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent
scratches
>>but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep all
>>water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum will
>>get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast building
>>mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the
>>GREATEST !!!!!!
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>Ben Haas
>>>N801BH
>>>www.haaspowerair.com
>>>
>>>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions
>about
>>storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>>>
>>>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping
paper
>>or should the paper be removed?
>>>
>>>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter rolls
>>and keep them that way for months to years?
>>>
>>>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder to
>>store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
>>particularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the space
>>issue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design and
>is
>>resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the table.
>>>
>>>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
>>clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the
>paper
>>and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to
>this
>>amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
>>sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this can be
done
>>for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
>>>
>>>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Ben Church
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>--------
>>>Ben Church
>>>CH801
>>>Racine, WI
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=============================
>
>>================================================================; -
>>MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>>>_===============================================
>>===========================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>_____________________________________________________________
>>>Improve your ability to get around with a wheel chair van. Click now!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>---------------------------------
>>>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
it
>>now.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | XL / Jabiru Dual throttles |
I'm working on my firewall right now and trying to see how everything is going
to fit. I bought the dual throttle kit for the Jab 3300 and in checking the installation
instructions find that they don't exactly apply in my case.
>From what I can see, earlier XL's had a flat shelf to which the dual throttle
was installed and a metal tab added to which the center cable to the carb was
fitted.
My XL has a beefed up shelf with angles added to the top so I need somewhere else
to attach the thottle cable to the carb.
If there is anyone else out there who installed JabiruUSA's dual throttle kit onto
a shelf like mine would you mind telling me what you chose to do?
If I just attach the throttle cable to the shelf itself I should get about 45 mm
of cable travel. Is that enough?
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164702#164702
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
No aileron connections, No wire connections. What's up with that.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
craig(at)craigandjean.com wrote:
> Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>
> -- Craig
>
> --
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164709#164709
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Holy Crap Batman!,
I did'nt realize that I would set off such a firestorm by asking about
torque values!
Thanks to all that chimed in, this has been an exciting, and at times, very
frustrating experience (But who would have it any other way?)
I am a first time builder and unfortunetly don't have a lifetime of
experience in aircraft maintenance, So some things I am learning as I build-
and as Shirley at ZAC can affirm, I have bought lots of replacement parts in
the process!
Thanks again to all, and to Ben, I have no idea what a sabrina motor is, and
torque values were not part of my E.R. nursing curriculum!
-Brad
XL/TD
>From: Terry Phillips <ttp44@rkymtn.net>
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Torque values
>Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 15:43:38 -0700
>
>
>I am a bit puzzled by your reply, Ben.
>
>This question about torque was posted a day or so ago, and there were
>several responses. But Sabrina was the only one who looked carefully at the
>issue and realized that the bolts in question were 3/16" AN3 bolts with
>3/8" hex heads (with a standard torque of 20-25 in-lbs), not 3/8" AN6 bolts
>(with a standard torque of 160-190 in-lbs). When I saw her reply this
>morning, I burst out laughing, and immediately told my wife about her post.
>There have been several replies to the original post by our older,
>experience builders addressing various aspects of the appropriate torque
>wrenches to use for 190 ft-lbs of torque. But it took a very bright 16-year
>young woman builder to point out that the underlying premise of the whole
>question was flawed.
>
>Sabrina, I take my hat off to you. You are super. It looks to me like you
>understand not only torque, but are bright enough to realize that the wrong
>question had been asked (and answered). Well done!
>
>Terry
>
>
>At 07:05 PM 2/17/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>
>>these are pretty basic questions about torque. I read somewhere you built
>>a "sabrina" motor... Didn't you learn the basics about bolt torque during
>>that process???
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>Ben Haas
>>N801BH
>>www.haaspowerair.com
>>
>>-- "Sabrina" <chicago2paris@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>"I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am curious
>>about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for the
>>rudder
>>lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of the
>>standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt should
>>be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
>>wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160 by 12
>>to get 13.3333(etc) foot"
>>
>>Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing attach
>>bolts are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque values given
>>by Zenith are based upon the shank size or AN number not the physical
>>size of the socket needed to torque it. Correct?
>>
>>Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6! (3/8")
>>So too, the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque values since
>>they control the amount of "grip" or resistance encountered when operating
>>the pedals and are adjusted after the nose gear and rigging are installed.
>>Just snug until then.
>
>
>Terry Phillips
>ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
>Corvallis MT
>601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
>are done; working on the wings
>http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Flaperons with glider-like linkage, no lights, tank in fuselage.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-12int.htm:
"Full span flaperons will hook up automatically as the wings are installed
using fittings similar to those proven over many years in sailplanes. "
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gig Giacona
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 6:32 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Storing skins
No aileron connections, No wire connections. What's up with that.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
craig(at)craigandjean.com wrote:
> Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>
> -- Craig
>
> --
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164709#164709
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
Hi Sabrina. It has been a few years since I worked through that part of
my 801 but if I remember correctly I torqued it to the proper spec but t
here was a little too much drag on the pedals. Since I have a complete m
achine shop I set up the bearing in my milling machine and took out .000
6" or so to give it a slight bit more clearance. I am guessing the 601 u
ses the same green Delrin material for the bearing block...?
As for the other question, I LOVE my 801, The V-8 Ford in it is most imp
ressive.... Thank god for experimentals.!!!!!!!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Sabrina" <chicago2paris@msn.com> wrote:
Haas International Airstrip (2WY3)
4 Miles North of Merna, Wyoming
Owner: Ben Haas
Do not confuse the airstrip with a nearby paved, lighted runway that is
over 6,000 in length.
I wish I owned an International Airport! Ben, how does your 801 fly?
What torque value would YOU recommend the for the "central pedal bearin
g?
If Roger had not said this exact issue is THE NUMBER ONE problem, I woul
d not have replied.
Sabrina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164631#164631
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Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Motivational Flying Video for the Week |
Scott,
I agree with Kevin :)
Anyway I'm back to work on mine, putting sound proofing material on.
Dan
do not archive
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164716#164716
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Motivational Flying Video for the Week |
Your videos are truly motivational. Keep them coming.
Could watch them over and over....
Thanks
Ron
Debert, Nova Scotia, Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164722#164722
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Thanks for all of the replies. Sounds like the general consensus is that keeping
things dry is top priority and that rolling skins shouldn't pose a severe risk.
Regards,
Ben Church
do not archive
--------
Ben Church
CH801
Racine, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164723#164723
Message 42
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Ya know. Now that this has come up I will pass on a little tidbit. A few
years ago I was at Sun & Fun about the same time I ordered my 801 kit f
rom Zenith.
So, I wander over to the Vans show area and make the comment that I pur
chased a Zenith kit. I was bantered by several of the Vans sales people
in front of other customers on buying a plane that was put together with
"pop rivets". They all said a real plane had bucked rivets and that Chr
is Hienz designed a substandard kit using pulled rivets.................
..............
Fast forward a few years,,, Wow. what is this, Vans is using the same p
ulled rivets and a domed head riveter on the -12. This last year at Oshk
osh I made it a point to visit the Vans area and expressed my amazement
on their use of "pulled pop rivets in front of alot of their future cust
omers... I laughed for hours.......
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Storing skins
Larry,
You are a lot more ambitious than I will ever be. I sure wouldn't look
forward to undoing 14 wing bolts, two fuel connections, around eight wir
ing
connections, pitot and static lines, and aileron control cables; and the
n
hooking them up again every year! I'm looking forward to doing that the
first time, but not over and over again. I'd just look for another winte
r
storage solution. (Easy for me to say, since I live in Texas)
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Larry H <skyridersbn@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I too have limited space so before my wing kit arrives for my 601XL, I
thought I would build the wing storage rack that other builders use to s
tore
their wings. I plan on using the storage racks in the wintertime when I
put
my plane in storage for the winter. I'll take the wings off and put the
plane and wings in my garage. It seems like a good plan to me at
least....I'm open for suggestions also.
>
>
>
>"n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
> From one Ben 801 builder to another,,,,, Welcome..
> Your skins will store just fine either rolled up or layed out. The bi
g
issue is to keep them dry. The brown shipping paper helps prevent scratc
hes
but is a wonderful wick for gathering moisture so do your best to keep a
ll
water off on them. If they do get wet or even very moist the aluminum wi
ll
get a surface corrosion. Enjoy building the 801,,, I had a blast buildi
ng
mine and it goes without saying the Zenith factory guys and gals are the
GREATEST !!!!!!
> do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "bcchurch" <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>I received my full CH801 kit a few weeks back and have some questions a
bout
storing the large fuselage and wing skins.
>
>Is it acceptable to keep all the skins wrapped in the brown shipping pa
per
or should the paper be removed?
>
>Is it acceptable to loosely roll the skins into 2 to 3 ft diameter roll
s
and keep them that way for months to years?
>
>What advice would you have for the "storage-space-challenged" builder t
o
store skins? (Besides the obvious "get more storage space") I'm
particularly interested to hear how other builders have overcome the spa
ce
issue with the skins. My work table is based on Gary Liming's design an
d is
resting on saw-horses so I can't have a full-length shelf under the tabl
e.
>
>I've searched the archives but didn't have too much luck in finding any
clear answers. One person stated that they removed all skins from the p
aper
and applied corrosion X for storage but I wonder if others have gone to
this
amount of effort. I've also read some posts about rolling entire 4x12
sheets of 0.040 and there seems to be some debate about if this can be d
one
for long times without the sheets taking a shape.
>
>I'd appreciate your comments and advice.
>
>Thanks,
>Ben Church
>
>do not archive
>
>--------
>Ben Church
>CH801
>Racine, WI
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p==========
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Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Storing skins |
Gig,
I'm guessing that there are "point" contacts for the electricals. RVs typically
have push-pull tubes for aileron control. Gliders have the same set-up, so
I suppose that Van's uses a similar system to those.
Jay in Dallas
Do not archive
"Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>
>No aileron connections, No wire connections. What's up with that.
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>craig(at)craigandjean.com wrote:
>> Sounds like the RV-12 with its quick-remove wings is an answer:
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnWrXKfh_XM
>>
>> -- Craig
>>
>> --
>
>
>--------
>W.R. "Gig" Giacona
>601XL Under Construction
>See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164709#164709
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Torque values |
I might be behind the power curve here because it takes 2-4 weeks for a
posting on Matronics to make it to Wyoming where I live.... I didn't see
the earlier posts reguarding the torque issue. { ;-).. Don't get me wr
ong, Sabrina is on the way to a great life with her knowledge and zest.
Her parents should VERY proud. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- Terry Phillips <ttp44@rkymtn.net> wrote:
I am a bit puzzled by your reply, Ben.
This question about torque was posted a day or so ago, and there were
several responses. But Sabrina was the only one who looked carefully at
the
issue and realized that the bolts in question were 3/16" AN3 bolts with
3/8" hex heads (with a standard torque of 20-25 in-lbs), not 3/8" AN6 bo
lts
(with a standard torque of 160-190 in-lbs). When I saw her reply this
morning, I burst out laughing, and immediately told my wife about her po
st.
There have been several replies to the original post by our older,
experience builders addressing various aspects of the appropriate torque
wrenches to use for 190 ft-lbs of torque. But it took a very bright 16-y
ear
young woman builder to point out that the underlying premise of the whol
e
question was flawed.
Sabrina, I take my hat off to you. You are super. It looks to me like yo
u
understand not only torque, but are bright enough to realize that the wr
ong
question had been asked (and answered). Well done!
Terry
At 07:05 PM 2/17/2008 +0000, you wrote:
>these are pretty basic questions about torque. I read somewhere you bui
lt
>a "sabrina" motor... Didn't you learn the basics about bolt torque duri
ng
>that process???
>
>do not archive
>
>
>Ben Haas
>N801BH
>www.haaspowerair.com
>
>-- "Sabrina" <chicago2paris@msn.com> wrote:
>
>"I am getting ready to put the cabin floor back together and I am curio
us
>about the torque values for the 3/8" nuts/bolts. Specifically for the r
udder
>lateral and center bearings, rudder pedal brackets, etc. My copy of the
>standard aircraft handbook says that a fine thread, 3/8" nut/bolt shoul
d
>be tightened to 160 to 190 inch pounds, and my beam-style torque
>wrench is in foot pounds. I ASSUME then, that I would divide the 160 by
12
>to get 13.3333(etc) foot"
>
>Am I missing something here? It is not true that the pedal bearing att
ach
>bolts are AN3 or 3/16 hardware with a 3/8" head? The torque values giv
en
>by Zenith are based upon the shank size or AN number not the physical
>size of the socket needed to torque it. Correct?
>
>Per Drawing 6-B-9 they are AN3-5A and AN3-15A (3/16") NOT AN6!
>(3/8") So too, the Central Pedal Bearing bolts have special torque
>values since they control the amount of "grip" or resistance encountere
d
>when operating the pedals and are adjusted after the nose gear and rigg
ing
>are installed. Just snug until then.
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
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Message 45
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| Subject: | KR2 / ea-81 / avionics / instruments / corvair parts for |
sale
Gents,
I have a KR2 on the gear for sale. Tail surfaces
mostly completed, spars completed. Rudder pedals
installed. Comes with inner wing panel fiberglass
skins. The project was started by a man that passed
away, and given to me. I don't have the time to
complete. Email me for pics. $1500 OBO.
Lots of good spruce. Best offer.
EA-81 core and belt reduction unit. $1500 OBO.
Zenith carburetor ser# 14992A. Looks new. Best
offer.
35mm Aerocarb with Filter. $250 OBO.
Ameri-King Alt Encoder AK-350. New in box. $90 OBO.
United / Weco Airspeed indicator new - $75 OBO.
Used VSI - $30 OBO.
New in box - Westach Oil temp, oil press, ammeter,
EGT, Turbo - $100 OBO.
Terra TXN 920 ILS COMM W/ tray and harness - $400 OBO.
Terra TX 760 COMM and TN200 Nav W/ tray and harness -
$700 OBO.
Good 8409 Corvair crank. Tapped for WW safety shaft.
Not nitrited yet, but standard journals. $50 OBO.
2 110 hp Corvair heads. Will need full overhaul. $50
each OBO.
I also have a couple of used venturies, a vacuum pump,
and Narco CP 136 audio panel.
All prices plus actual shipping. All of this stuff is
located in Victorville, Ca (1 hour NE of LA). I will
put it on ebay if nobody here wants it. I'll put it
all together for a great starter package... Please
email me at btucke73@yahoo.com or
brandon.tucker@uav.com. M(760)586-5757 or
W(760)388-8356.
R/
Brandon Tucker
601 HDS / TD / Corvair
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 46
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| Subject: | XL / Jabiru Dual throttles |
Tim,
The new HomebuiltHelp video on the Jabiru covers this. But even
with the old shelf, I had to re-configure the dual throttle option. And you
can call Pete or Ben for help too. In short, the center throttle cable goes
through a hole in the shelf down to the carby. I picture of my installation
in progress is attached.
Jeff D.
>From what I can see, earlier XL's had a flat shelf to which the dual
throttle was installed and a metal tab added to which the center cable to
the carb was fitted.
My XL has a beefed up shelf with angles added to the top so I need somewhere
else to attach the thottle cable to the carb.
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