Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:39 AM - RE : Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (Jean-Paul Roy)
2. 03:59 AM - Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (Trainnut01@aol.com)
3. 04:01 AM - Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (kmccune)
4. 04:04 AM - RE : Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (kmccune)
5. 04:09 AM - Re: One-eyed Pilots (kmccune)
6. 05:29 AM - Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 (Darryl Legg)
7. 07:24 AM - Re: Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 (GLJSOJ1)
8. 07:37 AM - Re: Saddle, pt II (Edward Moody II)
9. 08:04 AM - Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (John M. Goodings)
10. 08:15 AM - 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Edward Moody II)
11. 08:52 AM - Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Bill Naumuk)
12. 11:47 AM - Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (George Race)
13. 12:05 PM - sub D connector for five wire Ray Allen servo (THOMAS SMALL)
14. 12:47 PM - Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (Jim McBurney)
15. 12:56 PM - Re: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Jaybannist@cs.com)
16. 01:19 PM - Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery (Larry H)
17. 01:33 PM - EGT/CHT wiring (leinad)
18. 01:49 PM - Al Beyers (THOMAS SMALL)
19. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Bill Naumuk)
20. 02:23 PM - Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) (raymondj)
21. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Juan Vega)
22. 02:43 PM - Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (Kevin Bonds)
23. 03:11 PM - You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink (George Race)
24. 03:29 PM - Re: Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) (Jaybannist@cs.com)
25. 03:29 PM - Re: You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink (Craig Payne)
26. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Jaybannist@cs.com)
27. 03:39 PM - Re: You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink (Jaybannist@cs.com)
28. 03:50 PM - Re: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Craig Payne)
29. 04:12 PM - Re: Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) (Dave G.)
30. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim (Terry Phillips)
31. 05:13 PM - Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery (LarryMcFarland)
32. 06:21 PM - nitrogen clynders (Tracy)
33. 06:58 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question ()
34. 07:45 PM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question (pavel569)
35. 08:10 PM - Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery (Bryan Martin)
36. 08:32 PM - Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote (Bryan Martin)
37. 08:40 PM - Re: Re: Saddle (Bryan Martin)
38. 09:01 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question (George Swinford)
39. 10:02 PM - Re: Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Many thanks Ron for posting this poem. Your father must have been a great man.
Jean-Paul
Ron Lendon <rlendon@comcast.net> a crit :
This is a poem my father taught me that has helped many times in my life.
It Couldn't Be Done
Edgar Guest
Somebody said that it couldn't be done,
But he with a chuckle replied
That "maybe it couldn't," but he would be one
Who wouldn't say so till he'd tried.
So he buckled right in with the trace of a grin
On his face. If he worried he hid it.
He started to sing as he tackled the thing
That couldn't be done, and he did it.
Somebody scoffed: "Oh, you'll never do that;
At least no one ever has done it";
But he took off his coat and he took off his hat,
And the first thing we knew he'd begun it.
With a lift of his chin and a bit of a grin,
Without any doubting or quiddit,
He started to sing as he tackled the thing
That couldn't be done, and he did it.
There are thousands to tell you it cannot be done,
There are thousands to prophesy failure;
There are thousands to point out to you, one by one,
The dangers that wait to assail you.
But just buckle in with a bit of a grin,
Just take off your coat and go to it;
Just start to sing as you tackle the thing
That "cannot be done," and you'll do it.
Many good people here want to see you continue with your dream of flying. Give
it time.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165890#165890
---------------------------------
Dcouvrez les styles qui font sensation sur Yahoo! Qubec Avatars
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
My best friend left his left eye behind in Viet Nam. He flys almost every
day, I don't think he even misses that eye anymore.
Carroll
do not archive
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Don't do it! For all the reasons stated above and simply because, it takes a human
to pilot an airplane. You can still breath and you can still see, my guess
is that your humanity didn't leave you. So by my count, you can still be a pilot.
Hell, because of your loss, you'll most likely end of being a better, safer
pilot just because you pay more attention to whats going on then you would
have with both eyes! Don't sell yourself short, give it an honest chance.
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165915#165915
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Subject: | Re: RE : Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
I'll second that comment!
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165917#165917
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Subject: | Re: One-eyed Pilots |
[Embarassed]
amyvega2005(at)earthlink. wrote:
> which airline was that so that I avoid it.
>
> --
--------
Kevin
N701DZ Reserved
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165918#165918
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Subject: | Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 |
Hello there 601 builders,
I am finishing off my brake pedals and brackets for the master cylinders and don't
seem to have a great deal of forward travel before the master cyl stops against
the base mounting bracket. Could anyone tell me the actual rudder travel
when the cables are hooked up?
Thanks in advance
happy building
Darryl
Darwin, Australia
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165925#165925
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Subject: | Re: Actual rudder pedal travel in 601 |
When I did mine I needed to file the mounting bracket for the cylinders off a bit
to give me enough travel on the pedals so that they did not hit the bracket.
--------
601XL N676L reserved
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165934#165934
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Subject: | Re: Saddle, pt II |
The plane just moved to the new hangar yesterday. I had run out of room
to continue in my backyard shop. I do not have a decent photo of the
connector. Go to www.radioshack.com and search 4-pin panel mount
microphone audio jack. Then search 4-Pin Female CB and HAM Radio
Microphone Plug 4-Pin Female CB and HAM Radio Microphone Plug . Those
two searches will show you the two connectors in a 4-pin model. I know
for a fact (I have three sets of them) that Radio Shack has a 5-pin
version as well. There are other ways to skin this cat but this
connector is one good way.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Saddle, pt II
Dred-
Sounds good. Any pictures? Wondering about the male connector.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Moody II
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Saddle, pt II
For the five conductor trim cable, go to Radio Shack and buy the
panel mount plug for a CB mic. It has five pins and has a locking ring
to keep it securely plugged.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk
To: zenith list
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 2:59 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Saddle, pt II
All-
On lister advice, decided to wait until rear top skins were in
place before fitting the saddle. Rough rigged elevator; will have to
pore over ACS catalog to get electrical fittings to connect tail light,
elevator trim, and belly strobe. Will also have to install a fitting
attached to the lower fuse to support cables. Then I can install the
rear fuse top skins.
Note: HF cable cutting pliers are a POS. The ACS $15.00 Nico
Press squeezer is barely adequate for the assembly of 1 project. I have
2 fittings to go and the squeezer is about shot.
90% done, 95% to go!
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
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2/23/2008 9:35 PM
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Michael:
Let me make you aware of the work of Professor Ian Howard, a clinical
psychologist at York University in Toronto. Ian showed, with detailed
experimentation, and even managed to convince Transport Canada, that a
person does not use two eyes for stereoscopic vision at a distance beyond
about 10 feet. That is, in landing an aircraft, you are NOT using
stereoscopic vision, so that one (good) eye is essentially as useful as
two. One gets depth perception from the brain trained to reference on
all the other surrounding objects beyond 10 feet.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Carp/Ottawa.
Message 10
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Subject: | 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
http://www.qsradio.com/Connectors.htm
Okay guys and gals, I found the mysterious 5-pin plug at the site linked
above. Scroll down about 80%... the various versions with different
numbers of pins are listed there.
These connectors are a nice neat professional looking way to make
connections at the tail, the wing roots, anywhere that might need to
come apart someday.
The four pin version is available at Radio Shack in my home town so I
guess it is available elsewhere as well.
Dred
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Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
Dred-
Where did you install the panel mount? I'm guessing on the rear stab
mount. If you put it where the grommet is on the elevator, the male
connector would probably interfere with free travel.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Moody II
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
http://www.qsradio.com/Connectors.htm
Okay guys and gals, I found the mysterious 5-pin plug at the site
linked above. Scroll down about 80%... the various versions with
different numbers of pins are listed there.
These connectors are a nice neat professional looking way to make
connections at the tail, the wing roots, anywhere that might need to
come apart someday.
The four pin version is available at Radio Shack in my home town so I
guess it is available elsewhere as well.
Dred
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
intermittent connections.
In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
connector.
If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
airtight seal around the wires would be best.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Message 13
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Subject: | sub D connector for five wire Ray Allen servo |
This is another connector that works back on the top of stab and under
fairing. Thanks to Electrocuted Bob. Position light wire can also be
incorporated...jeff
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
My ophthalmologist (sp?) told me, and I've tried it and found it to be true,
that our binocular vision only gives us depth perception to about fifteen
feet. Beyond that it's the brain's ability to interpolate/extrapolate using
known shapes and apparent movement that gives us depth perception. So, as
Larry Hursh wrote a few posts ago, Give yourself some space and time. Our
bodies are "fearfully and wonderfully made", and adapt to many seemingly
insurmountable difficulties. Reread Larry's post, print it out, keep it and
read it when you feel like surrendering, and keep your dream!
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
George,
Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard of.
Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where to get it,
etc.?
Thanks,
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
"George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>
>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>intermittent connections.
>
>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>connector.
>
>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>
>George
>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Larry, I have a question about the seats and maybe you can answer it for me. I
was wondering if there's such a thing as replacing the permanently mounted seats
with a moveable seat like that in a Cessna? I'm a pretty short legged pilot
and if I mount the seats too close to the pedals, any of my friends that are
much taller than I will have a dickens of a time with the seat being too close
for them. I've only started my XL but I've been wondering how others have
handled it. When AMD builds the Alarus (mother to the XL), how do they handle
the seating in those?? I'm sure there are a lot of them out here being used
for General Aviation. Any help you could offer here will put my mind at ease
some.
Regards
Larry H
LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> wrote:
Hi Jeff,
The seats are easily done with plywood backs or fiberglass. Automotive
foams are cheaper and perhaps
easier to get hold of at many sewing and fabric outlets. Density is
something you want to pay attention to.
Confor foam is expensive beyond practical concerns, but for flammability
perhaps. I've a page on
seat construction that may explain the process. See link below.
Seat backs need only go an inch or more above the shelf or to shoulder
support height. Easier to get
belts over your shoulders if you don't go too high. Head rests are for
the flying public and passengers
but I wouldn't recommend them because of a need for access to the rear
shelf during flight.
http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
Good luck,
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Jeff wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there really are
> three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat backs, and the
> upholstery.
>
> My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
> (reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site appears to
> be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use fiberglass.
>
> For the cushions, several types of foam are available from common soft foam
> to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns for the
> 601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price of Hi-Tech,
> but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured shapes. Does
> anyone have either installed?
>
> I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover done
> should be the easiest part.
>
> I have a couple questions:
>
> How far above the baggage shelf should the headrest portion of the seatback
> extend to protect our heads? Most of the pictures I see just have a large
> arc or simple straight edge as the top of the seat back. Is there a reason
> that there is no head rest? Should the seats be more like the bucket seats
> in a car with integral head rests? Is it just personal preference? I just
> measured my plane and came up with 300 mm above the shelf for the top of the
> headrest assuming a 3 inch foam seat over the seat pan. How do the
> Flightcrafters or Zenith seats compare?
>
> Thanks ....
>
> Jeff D.
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
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I've managed to loose (if I ever had them) instructions on wiring a dual EGT/CHT
gauge. The gauge doesn't have the manufacturer, just a made in china lable
on it.
It's a 2 1/4" round gauge. It has 4 posts on the back labelled, 1, 3, 4, 5.
I've got thermocouples that I purchased at the same time.
Anyone got some suggestions?
Dan Dempsey
601XL
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165987#165987
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Al,
Have been attempting to e-mail you with the info but it keeps getting
bounced. Fred's having trouble too.
Reason: Remote SMTP server has rejected address
jeff do not archive
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
George-
Jeff showed me his set-up, which is actually a 9 pin computer serial
connector! He's been flying since the late '90s.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: George Race
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone
connectors.
The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar.
They do not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of
humidity in the air or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in
an outdoor atmosphere. The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get
very corroded causing intermittent connections.
In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of
current that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the
connector. I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any
problem. But to be sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating
BEFORE using this type of connector.
If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of
them becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal
them heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes
an airtight seal around the wires would be best.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Message 20
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Subject: | Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) |
Jay,
I believe he is referring to adhesive lined shrink tubing. It is used in
marine wiring. Ancor Marine is one manufacturer. Hope this helps.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst."
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>
> George,
>
> Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard
> of. Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where
> to get it, etc.?
>
> Thanks,
> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
> "George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>
>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone
>>connectors.
>>
>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They
>>do
>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the
>>air
>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>intermittent connections.
>>
>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>connector.
>>
>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>
>>George
>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>
>
>
>
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Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
gp to an electronics shop other than Radio Shack and ask for heat shrink with heat
activated glue cores.
Or go on line.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jaybannist@cs.com
>Sent: Feb 24, 2008 3:51 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>
>
>George,
>
>Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard of.
Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where to get it,
etc.?
>
>Thanks,
>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>
>
>"George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>
>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>>
>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>intermittent connections.
>>
>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>connector.
>>
>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>
>>George
>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
Micheal
I have a unique perspective on this. I lost sight almost entirely in my
left eye when I was about 13. Got into a fight with a struck nail while
building a skateboard ramp. My vision was about 20-400 if I squinted. I
lost the natural lens in my eye and the doc didn't want to put in an
implant since I was still growing. Before the accident I was a good
shot with a basketball. Afterwards for a while I couldn't hit the "broad
side of a barn" and I bumped into a lot of walls and furniture. But in a
few months time I was hitting baskets again just like nothing was lost.
I didn't miss my eye after a while. as a matter of fact I waited until
my late 20's to have that implant put in. Bad news is, the first one was
too small and slipped downward causing me to see through the
edge--giving me double vision in that eye for a couple of years (I had
to wait to totally heal before redoing the operation). But one of the
"visions" was almost 20-20. Even the seeing of double out of one eye
didn't bother me that much after a while. As long as I didn't close my
good eye, my brain would compensate by filtering out the incorrect of
the two "visions". So don't get down. Give yourself some time. I am
speaking from experience.
Message 23
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|
Subject: | You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink |
Dual Wall Heat Shrink has been around for many years.
Lots of places have it and most call it either Dual Wall Heat Shrink or Heat
Shrink Encapsulate Tubing.
Here are a few references:
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/duwaheshtuki.html They have assorted
kits with a lot of sizes.
http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmdw1info.html Here is a complete
specification page for some really good stuff.
And last but not least, the place I have been buying it from. It is a 3M
product of very good quality. You probably pay a bit more for it but it is
worth it in the long run. Look toward the bottom of their page for the dual
wall stuff.
Their prices are good and they ship real fast. You may also want one of
their catalogues. They have a lot of misc stuff as well.
http://www.action-electronics.com/heatshrink.htm
During my working days we used a lot of this stuff for underground direct
buried cable splices. Worked just great for phone cables, CATV cables, and
even coaxial cables with connectors. The 3/4 inch size stuff works just
great to seal up PL259 Connectors for coax. The 3/8 inch stuff works great
on CATV cables and connectors, the 75 ohm stuff, RG-59U.
Hope this helps.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Message 24
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Subject: | Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) |
Raymond,
Living so near the ocean, you should know ;-)
I'll give them a try.
Thanks - Jay
do not archive
"raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>Jay,
>
>I believe he is referring to adhesive lined shrink tubing. It is used in
>marine wiring. Ancor Marine is one manufacturer. Hope this helps.
>
>Raymond Julian
>Kettle River, MN
>
>"Hope for the best,
>but prepare for the worst."
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:51 PM
>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>
>
>>
>> George,
>>
>> Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard
>> of. Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where
>> to get it, etc.?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>>
>>
>> "George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone
>>>connectors.
>>>
>>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They
>>>do
>>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the
>>>air
>>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>>intermittent connections.
>>>
>>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>>connector.
>>>
>>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>>
>>>George
>>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 25
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|
Subject: | You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink |
Waytek sells it too, in a variety of colors and sizes.
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/220_113.PDF
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Race
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 4:08 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink
Dual Wall Heat Shrink has been around for many years.
Lots of places have it and most call it either Dual Wall Heat Shrink or Heat
Shrink Encapsulate Tubing.
Here are a few references:
http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/duwaheshtuki.html They have assorted
kits with a lot of sizes.
http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmdw1info.html Here is a complete
specification page for some really good stuff.
And last but not least, the place I have been buying it from. It is a 3M
product of very good quality. You probably pay a bit more for it but it is
worth it in the long run. Look toward the bottom of their page for the dual
wall stuff.
Their prices are good and they ship real fast. You may also want one of
their catalogues. They have a lot of misc stuff as well.
http://www.action-electronics.com/heatshrink.htm
During my working days we used a lot of this stuff for underground direct
buried cable splices. Worked just great for phone cables, CATV cables, and
even coaxial cables with connectors. The 3/4 inch size stuff works just
great to seal up PL259 Connectors for coax. The 3/8 inch stuff works great
on CATV cables and connectors, the 75 ohm stuff, RG-59U.
Hope this helps.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Message 26
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|
Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
Juan, Thanks - Jay
do not archive
Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>gp to an electronics shop other than Radio Shack and ask for heat shrink with
heat activated glue cores.
>
>Or go on line.
>
>Juan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jaybannist@cs.com
>>Sent: Feb 24, 2008 3:51 PM
>>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>>
>>
>>George,
>>
>>Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never heard of.
Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name, where to get
it, etc.?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>>
>>
>>"George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>>>
>>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
>>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
>>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
>>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>>intermittent connections.
>>>
>>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
>>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
>>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>>connector.
>>>
>>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>>
>>>George
>>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 27
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Subject: | You Ask About Dual Wall Heat Shrink |
Thanks George. I can't believe I've been in the dark so long about this stuff.
Thanks again - Jay
do not archive
"George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>Dual Wall Heat Shrink has been around for many years.
>
>Lots of places have it and most call it either Dual Wall Heat Shrink or Heat
>Shrink Encapsulate Tubing.
>
>Here are a few references:
>
>http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/duwaheshtuki.html They have assorted
>kits with a lot of sizes.
>
>http://www.seacoastheatshrink.com/pmdw1info.html Here is a complete
>specification page for some really good stuff.
>
>And last but not least, the place I have been buying it from. It is a 3M
>product of very good quality. You probably pay a bit more for it but it is
>worth it in the long run. Look toward the bottom of their page for the dual
>wall stuff.
>Their prices are good and they ship real fast. You may also want one of
>their catalogues. They have a lot of misc stuff as well.
>http://www.action-electronics.com/heatshrink.htm
>
>During my working days we used a lot of this stuff for underground direct
>buried cable splices. Worked just great for phone cables, CATV cables, and
>even coaxial cables with connectors. The 3/4 inch size stuff works just
>great to seal up PL259 Connectors for coax. The 3/8 inch stuff works great
>on CATV cables and connectors, the 75 ohm stuff, RG-59U.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>George
>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
There are connectors designed for harsh environments. One example are
automotive connectors with individual seals on the leads. Waytek sells them:
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/220_033.pdf (top of the page)
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Race
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 12:44 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They do
not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the air
or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor atmosphere.
The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
intermittent connections.
In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the connector.
I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to be
sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
connector.
If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
airtight seal around the wires would be best.
George
CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic jack) |
On those occassions where I have wanted to seal up a connection and have not
had adhesive lined shrink tubing, I whittle shavings from a hot melt glue
stick and slide them into the tubing before shrinking. The wires under a
trailer live a hard life and this really helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:24 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (was 5-pin mic
jack)
>
> Raymond,
>
> Living so near the ocean, you should know ;-)
>
> I'll give them a try.
>
> Thanks - Jay
> do not archive
>
>
> "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>Jay,
>>
>>I believe he is referring to adhesive lined shrink tubing. It is used in
>>marine wiring. Ancor Marine is one manufacturer. Hope this helps.
>>
>>Raymond Julian
>>Kettle River, MN
>>
>>"Hope for the best,
>>but prepare for the worst."
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <Jaybannist@cs.com>
>>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:51 PM
>>Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim
>>
>>
>>>
>>> George,
>>>
>>> Heat shrink tubing "with a molten center" is something I have never
>>> heard
>>> of. Could you give a little more information about this, ie: name,
>>> where
>>> to get it, etc.?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
>>>
>>>
>>> "George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone
>>>>connectors.
>>>>
>>>>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar.
>>>>They
>>>>do
>>>>not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in the
>>>>air
>>>>or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor
>>>>atmosphere.
>>>>The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very corroded causing
>>>>intermittent connections.
>>>>
>>>>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of
>>>>current
>>>>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the
>>>>connector.
>>>>I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any problem. But to
>>>>be
>>>>sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE using this type of
>>>>connector.
>>>>
>>>>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>>>>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>>>>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>>>>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>>>>
>>>>George
>>>>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
Subject: | Re: 5-pin mic jack for RAC trim |
When I was getting ready to wire up my elevator trim servo, I posed the
connector question on the Aeroelectric list. I was directed towards a
modified DB-9 connector that was originally suggested for this application
by Electric Bob. The resultant thread is here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=35647
One of the responders provides a link to Bob's descriptive web pages.
Nuckoll's recommends DB connectors as inexpensive, high quality (gold
plated contacts), and builder friendly. I plan to use them
extensively--when I get to FWF and panel. I used the modified DB-9 on my
elevator and aileron trims. The circuits test out fine. It'll be a while
before I can prove them in the air. For a description of what I did, go to
my KitlogPro site (see link below) and check out the 12/7/07, 12/11/07,
1/25/08 & 1/27/08 logs.
Incidentally, somewhere in the info I collected on this subject was a
recommendation from RAC to not use crimp connectors on their AWG24 or 26
servo wires. They recommend only solder connections for those wires. It was
difficult to locate a source for solder type male DB-9's, but I found a
place with good selection & price, Action-Electronics.com. I used
gold-plated crimp-type sockets from SteinAir ($.25/ea) for the AWG-22
connection wires.
Also, regarding the adhesive coated heat shrink tubing, McMaster-Carr has
an amazing selection of heat shrink tubing, both with and without adhesive.
I used the adhesive type on my 1st 2 DB-9 connectors and wish I hadn't. I
don't think they can be disassembled w/o damage.
There are lots of acceptable ways to make these connections. I offer the
DB-9's as an alternative to the microphone connectors that you may want to
consider. I think will work for me. YMMV.
Terry
At 02:44 PM 2/24/2008 -0500, you wrote:
>Just a few words about Radio Shack and other similar microphone connectors.
>
>The contacts are mostly made of plated brass, or something similar. They
>do not do well in wet conditions or where there is a lot of humidity in
>the air or a lot of condensation from being hot and cold in an outdoor
>atmosphere. The contacts, within the connectors, tend to get very
>corroded causing intermittent connections.
>
>In addition those kind of connectors are not rated for the kind of current
>that your tail light, for example, would be pulling through the
>connector. I don't think that an elevator trim servo would be any
>problem. But to be sure, look up the DC Continuous Current Rating BEFORE
>using this type of connector.
>
>If you DO use these kind of connectors, and there is any chance of them
>becoming wet, probably the best thing you could do would be to seal them
>heat shrink tubing. The kind that has a molten center that makes an
>airtight seal around the wires would be best.
>
>George
>CH-701 Kit - N73EX (Reserved)
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 31
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|
Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
Hi Larry,
I'd recommend you build the seats to fit the 6'-2" person and after
getting the proportions right for comfort disregarding the length of
your legs, make the seat back adjustable
both top and bottom to allow it to be positioned forward a distance that
you feel best with at the pedals. There are several spacer types or
adapters that would position your seat forward an inch or two so you get
a good fit. I don't see any benefit in trying a track on the bottom of
the seat when it's basically making the seat-back do the work.
The seat bottom is one plane of reference that can be fixed and the seat
back may more easily be made adjustable. This would be my approach.
Take note of the bottom channel that holds the bottom of my seat-back
and imagine two rows of channel and bolt in spacers at the top. I use
bungees for the top of my seats going back inside to hold them in place.
Larry McFarland
Larry H wrote:
> Larry, I have a question about the seats and maybe you can answer it
> for me. I was wondering if there's such a thing as replacing the
> permanently mounted seats with a moveable seat like that in a Cessna?
> I'm a pretty short legged pilot and if I mount the seats too close to
> the pedals, any of my friends that are much taller than I will have a
> dickens of a time with the seat being too close for them. I've only
> started my XL but I've been wondering how others have handled it.
> When AMD builds the Alarus (mother to the XL), how do they handle the
> seating in those?? I'm sure there are a lot of them out here being
> used for General Aviation. Any help you could offer here will put my
> mind at ease some.
>
> Regards
> Larry H
>
> */LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>/* wrote:
>
>
> Hi Jeff,
> The seats are easily done with plywood backs or fiberglass.
> Automotive
> foams are cheaper and perhaps
> easier to get hold of at many sewing and fabric outlets. Density is
> something you want to pay attention to.
> Confor foam is expensive beyond practical concerns, but for
> flammability
> perhaps. I've a page on
> seat construction that may explain the process. See link below.
> Seat backs need only go an inch or more above the shelf or to
> shoulder
> support height. Easier to get
> belts over your shoulders if you don't go too high. Head rests are
> for
> the flying public and passengers
> but I wouldn't recommend them because of a need for access to the
> rear
> shelf during flight.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/html/seatupholstery.htm
> Good luck,
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Jeff wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there
> really are
> > three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat
> backs, and the
> > upholstery.
> >
> > My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
> > (reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site
> appears to
> > be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use
> fiberglass.
> >
> > For the cushions, several types of foam are available from
> common soft foam
> > to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns
> for the
> > 601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price
> of Hi-Tech,
> > but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured
> shapes. Does
> > anyone have either installed?
> >
> > I checked with a local auto upholstery shop, and getting the cover
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
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Subject: | nitrogen clynders |
does anyone know what size or part number ,nitrogen clynders are used on the bubble
doors with assits. Zenith does not come with any but I have seen pics of
a few that have been put in.
Message 33
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Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do from the
wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface, which would
prevent getting an accurate indication.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601xl lyc 0-235, waiting for warmer weather to finish wiring and mount
wings
Does anyone of you using a holes in the wing as a ports for AOA?
-----------------------------------------
**************************************************
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Corporation proprietary information, which is privileged,
confidential, or subject to copyright belonging to the Exelon
Corporation family of Companies.
This e-mail is intended solely for the use of the individual or
entity to which it is addressed. If you are not the intended
recipient of this e-mail, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination, distribution, copying, or action taken in relation
to the contents of and attachments to this e-mail is strictly
prohibited and may be unlawful. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately and permanently
delete the original and any copy of this e-mail and any printout.
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Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
Craig.Spainhower(at)exelo wrote:
> I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do from
the wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface, which would
prevent getting an accurate indication.
I always thought that the AOA is actually measuring the difference of the air layer
(pressure) on top and bottom of the wing. The pitot tube protrudes far from
the wing not to be affected by the boundary layer on the bottom of the wing
you are mentioning, because it measures air speed. The LRI probe has to be further
away from the wing for the same reason. The high/low pressure holes are
close together and the angle of their surfaces substitutes the wing profile. Just
my $.02.
--------
Pavel
CA
Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166051#166051
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Subject: | Re: Seats: seat backs, cushions, and upholstery |
On my plane, I used 5.2 mm plywood for the seat backs. This is the
stuff used for providing a smooth surface under vinyl flooring. I had
some scrap pieces of it left over from a home project. It has worked
out well for me. I made the seat cushions out of the foam from Hi-Tech
foams. It is expensive but also extremely comfortable. I flew the
plane from Midland, Michigan to Lakeland Florida for Sun'N'Fun in
2005. The trip down involved about twelve hours of flight time and the
only complaint I had was that I wasn't able to streach my legs out
much in flight. I had no discomfort from the seat cushions at all. The
thirteen hour return trip I completed in one day and after sitting in
the seat pretty much all day, my butt and back didn't hurt at all.
I've suffered more discomfort from two hour trips in Cessna 150s.
On Feb 23, 2008, at 4:18 PM, Jeff wrote:
> >
>
> All,
>
> I'm working with the seats now too. I have found that there really
> are
> three parts to the seats. These are the cushions, the seat backs,
> and the
> upholstery.
>
> My manual suggests plywood as the seat back material. The fiberglass
> (reinforced plastic) solution as shown on the CH601.org web site
> appears to
> be a better solution. I guess I'll just have to learn to use
> fiberglass.
>
> For the cushions, several types of foam are available from common
> soft foam
> to Confor Foam. Both Hi-Tech Seats and Oregon Aero have patterns
> for the
> 601 using Confor foam. Oregon Aero is more than twice the price of
> Hi-Tech,
> but includes a multi-piece seat with professionally contoured
> shapes. Does
> anyone have either installed?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Toughest e-mail I ever wrote |
One of the great legends of aviation, Wiley Post, only had one eye. He
set two records for flying around the world, the second one solo. He
developed a pressure for high altitude flying. The loss of an eye
didn't effect his ability to fly.
On Feb 23, 2008, at 1:40 PM, A. Michael Honer wrote:
> I have lost the sight of my left eye, and will sell my carefully
> built 601XL for about one half of what I have in it.
>
> Includes Jab 3300 mounted in fitted cowling, firewall forward, dual
> sticks, hinged ailerons, aileron trim. Fuselage ,wings and tail are
> complete and have been test mounted and cables rigged. wings are
> back off.
>
> fuselage is complete less about half the work to finish the
> canopy...Ready to install the systems, decide what instruments and
> radios to buy and to put in it and do that job.
>
> Airplane is in N.C., and can be had for $17,500. Off- line inquiries
> please...Lots of pictures
>
> EAA guy says "excellent"
>
> amhoner@rtmc.net...336-857-1151
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 37
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I didn't have to make any changes to the saddle after re-pitching my
stabilizer. I did have to do some trimming to the rear end of the rear
top skin.
On Feb 23, 2008, at 4:15 PM, chris Sinfield wrote:
> >
>
> Q For all those people that were talking about adjusting the
> Horizontal stab when flight testing.
>
> how much messing about with the saddle was required for each change?
>
> Did you have to buy a new fiberglass saddle each time ?
>
> Could you flight test it without the saddle? get the right angle and
> then install the saddle?
>
> Chris.
> Do not archive
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 38
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Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
Aircraft Spruce sells the AOA Professional and AOA Sport angle of attack
indicators which sense the pressure above and below the leading edge thru
tiny ports which are flush to the surface.
George
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "pavel569" <pm569@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:41 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question
>
>
> Craig.Spainhower(at)exelo wrote:
> > I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do
from the wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface,
which would prevent getting an accurate indication.
>
>
> I always thought that the AOA is actually measuring the difference of the
air layer (pressure) on top and bottom of the wing. The pitot tube protrudes
far from the wing not to be affected by the boundary layer on the bottom of
the wing you are mentioning, because it measures air speed. The LRI probe
has to be further away from the wing for the same reason. The high/low
pressure holes are close together and the angle of their surfaces
substitutes the wing profile. Just my $.02.
>
> --------
> Pavel
> CA
> Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166051#166051
>
>
> --
12:19 PM
>
>
Message 39
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Subject: | RE: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question |
Advanced Flight Systems sells a system with flush probes that has been
available for years.
http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/Products/AOA/aoa.html
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Craig.Spainhower@exeloncorp.com
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: RE: Zenith-List Digest: LRI Probe Question
I think the reason pitot tubes and AOA probes protrude as far as they do
from the wing is to clear the boundary layer of air on the wings surface,
which would prevent getting an accurate indication.
Craig S.
N601XS, 601xl lyc 0-235, waiting for warmer weather to finish wiring and
mount wings
Does anyone of you using a holes in the wing as a ports for AOA?
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