Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:57 AM - Re: Re: Aileron integration (Paul Mulwitz)
2. 05:53 AM - Re: Re: 2000 hours (Bryan Martin)
3. 06:15 AM - O-200 Questions & Concerns (Clyde Barcus)
4. 06:16 AM - Aileron Integration (Bill Naumuk)
5. 06:57 AM - Re: Aileron integration (Tim Juhl)
6. 07:05 AM - Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns (Tim Juhl)
7. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: 2000 hours (Randy L. Thwing)
8. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: 2000 hours (steve)
9. 08:23 AM - Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns (george may)
10. 08:46 AM - Re: Re: 2000 hours (David Downey)
11. 09:14 AM - elevator trim tab runaway unlikely (THOMAS SMALL)
12. 09:18 AM - Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns (Clyde Barcus)
13. 10:03 AM - Re: 601 XL Empty Weight (KC7HFA)
14. 10:48 AM - Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns (LHusky@aol.com)
15. 11:45 AM - Re: 601 XL Empty Weight (dalemed)
16. 01:53 PM - Re: Second thoughts (wscribb)
17. 02:31 PM - Mishap (Jaybannist@cs.com)
18. 02:51 PM - Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns (Gig Giacona)
19. 02:56 PM - Re: Mishap (Tim Juhl)
20. 03:20 PM - Another day another disaster (steve)
21. 05:32 PM - Flying Today - Steep Turns (cookwithgas)
22. 05:37 PM - drill size for canopy self-tapping screws? (Craig Payne)
23. 06:20 PM - Re: drill size for canopy self-tapping screws? (Jaybannist@cs.com)
24. 08:39 PM - Nose Wheel Question (LHusky@aol.com)
25. 09:26 PM - Re: Rudder Cable farings (MHerder)
26. 09:57 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Cable farings (Paul Riedlinger)
27. 10:11 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Cable farings (George Swinford)
28. 10:21 PM - Not your usual accident report (Craig Payne)
29. 10:32 PM - Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway (Paul Mulwitz)
30. 10:54 PM - Re: Nose Wheel Question (xl)
31. 10:55 PM - Re: Re: Rudder Cable farings (JohnDRead@aol.com)
32. 11:05 PM - Official Zenith-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
33. 11:06 PM - Official Zenith-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Aileron integration |
Hi Tim,
I went ahead and riveted my ailerons when I built the wings. For
storage and moving around, I attached a few sticks across the
ailerons to the wing skin using duct tape. Each stick is around 1
foot long and perhaps 1 inch by 1/4 inch cross section. Actual size
of the sticks is random.
I store the wings with the nose ribs facing down. They are in little
carts made with harbor freight wheels and plywood from the Zenith
shipping crates. This doesn't put any load on the ailerons.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 04:48 PM 2/28/2008, you wrote:
>I'm leaving mine off until the wings are installed. I'm afraid that
>if I use a sling on the wing with the ailerons in place that I would
>damage them. Other than that I don't think it matters if you rivet
>now or later.
>
>Tim
Message 2
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Anybody can maintain, repair or modify an E-AB; the repairman
certificate isn't needed. The AB repairman certificate (or an A&P) is
only needed for signing off the annual condition inspection.
>
> For an E-LSA, however, if you use a certified engine, even if the
> prop is not certified or was never certified in combination with the
> engine, the E-LSA repairman license would not allow you to perform a
> "major repair/alteration" on the "no longer certified" engine since
> it was originally "produced under an FAA approval."
>
> Does that same limitation apply to the repairman certificate on an
> amateur built?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 3
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Subject: | O-200 Questions & Concerns |
Re: Continental O-200
Since my post there have been a few comments and questions on
certification or loss of certification along with other concerns. To
help eliminate confusion I have decided to put together a list of
questions and call EAA Headquarters for clarification. Because I am not
an expert on anything related to flying, I decided to join the EAA to
get good accurate information so I could lower the risk of making
expensive or dangerous mistakes. I plan on getting this done on Monday,
after discussing this with someone qualified in this area I will post
their answers. If anyone has a question (Related to this discussion)
they would like answered, email me and I will add it to the list.
Regards:
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Wings, Tail & Engine Complete
Working on Fuselage
Message 4
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Subject: | Aileron Integration |
Tim-
Since I'm polishing, I left the ailerons clecoed to the wings so I
could polish them before making cuts to install the aileron trim.
My storage rack is the same basic concept as Paul's or Larry Macs-
nose down.
My wife's aunt said "Anybody want an old entertainment center?" and
it hit me. Take the doors off, put casters on the back corners, cut
cradle openings and line them with water pipe insulation and you're
done- 3 hours build time shown in my log. Total outlay less than $15 for
bed casters and a bag of pipe insulation.
This is an old picture- all assemblies I've brought upstairs over
the years have shown no ill effects from storage in this manner. If you
have curious little kids or big dogs you might want to go with the
overhead option.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Aileron integration |
You guys have all found good solutions to the storage issue. In my case, I'm hanging
them from the rafters in my hangar (at home) using lengths of rejected
seatbelt webbing. I hung them nose up with wood blocks set in the rear spar channel
to distribute the forces.
Someone on the group described using a shop crane and sling to support the wing
while fitting it to the fuselage. Knowing my luck I just figured I'd damage
something if I left the control surfaces on while trying something like that.
If I was sure I'd have enough help on hand I wouldn't worry about it. I fit the
flaps and ailerons beforehand, so all I did was pull the hinge pin on the flaps
and de-cleco the ailerons. All the wiring & etc (less control cables) is
in the wings and the aileron pushrods are pretty close to desired length. Hopefully
it won't be a big deal to do the final installation.
Tim
Do not archive
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167090#167090
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hangingwing_602.jpg
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns |
Clyde,
I've got an email in to Joe Norris at EAA asking some the questions you refer to,
namely:
1.) May a homebuilder personally overhaul a certified engine and then install it
in a experimental aircraft?
2.) If a certified engine is installed in an experimental aircraft may the builder
perform annual inspections upon it?
I've been told recently (by an A&P) that if the engine is certified that only an
A&P can work on it. I didn't believe that to be the case and being lazy I just
shot off a question to Joe for a quick answer. Joe is the "go to guy" at
EAA for such questions. I'm installing a Jabiru so I never gave the question
much thought until it came up at our flying club.
Joe will be back in the office Monday and I plan to post his reply.
Tim Juhl
Do not archive
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167093#167093
Message 7
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Do not archive
> As to the 0-200A with ECI cylinders, my IA needed a full set of 030 push
> rods to meet lashing specs after an overhaul of my 1972 C150L's TCM, even
> with a brand new camshaft. Is ECI doing something wrong?
I sure would like to know the answer to that. .030" (the longest furnished
by Continental) wouldn't bring ours into spec. El Reno Aviation (El Reno,
OK) sells aftermarket .070" oversize, overlength pushrods. We had to buy
that set for an extra $350.00 plus when there was nothing wrong with our
standard length pushrods.
Otherwise, we think the ECI clylinders are fine in every other aspect. If
they are indeed making them "longer", They need to produce and start
including a longer pushrod with each cylinder.
Again, I don't know the true story on this, but I do have my personal
experience and the comments of others.
Thanks for responding,
Randy, Las Vegas
Message 8
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Unless "things" have changed.... And they do sometimes, IF your use, lets
say an 0-200 in your homebuilt, all needed is to remove the data plate.
Removing the plate puts the engine in the experimental catagory and then the
work / inspections can be done by the "homebuilder"...
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sabrina" <chicago2paris@msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 12:56 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
> Hey guys... not much homework tonight... missed you all!
>
> E-LSAs are eligible for a 5 hour test phase as opposed to 25 or 40. Of
> course, for the 5 or 25 to apply, the engine/prop combination must be a
> previously certified combination, not just a certified engine.
>
> As to the 0-200A with ECI cylinders, my IA needed a full set of 030 push
> rods to meet lashing specs after an overhaul of my 1972 C150L's TCM, even
> with a brand new camshaft. Is ECI doing something wrong?
>
> As to: "You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice
> rebuilt certified engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer
> certified." But that does not take away from the fact that the engine
> was previously certified with various prop combinations.
>
> For an E-LSA, however, if you use a certified engine, even if the prop is
> not certified or was never certified in combination with the engine, the
> E-LSA repairman license would not allow you to perform a "major
> repair/alteration" on the "no longer certified" engine since it was
> originally "produced under an FAA approval."
>
> Does that same limitation apply to the repairman certificate on an amateur
> built?
>
> Someone mentioned that I am in this month's Sport Aviation, I did not get
> my copy yet, were they nice to me? I can find the issue on line but not
> all articles have clickable links.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167068#167068
>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | O-200 Questions & Concerns |
Clyde--
It will be interesting to see what you find. My understanding is that if
you have a certified engine & prop the 25 hours apply. However, once you
hang the certified engine on an experimental plane(regardless of who mainta
ins it) it is no longer certified and can never be certified again.
good luck
George May
601XL 912s
do not archive
From: barcusc@comcast.netTo: zenith-list@matronics.comSubject: Zenith-List:
O-200 Questions & ConcernsDate: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 08:03:36 -0600
Re: Continental O-200
Since my post there have been a few comments and questions on certificatio
n or loss of certification along with other concerns. To help eliminate con
fusion I have decided to put together a list of questions and call EAA Head
quarters for clarification. Because I am not an expert on anything related
to flying, I decided to join the EAA to get good accurate information so I
could lower the risk of making expensive or dangerous mistakes. I plan on g
etting this done on Monday, after discussing this with someone qualified i
n this area I will post their answers. If anyone has a question (Related to
this discussion) they would like answered, email me and I will add it to t
he list.
Regards:
Clyde Barcus601 XL, Continental PoweredWings, Tail & Engine CompleteWorking
on Fuselage
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 10
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doesn't that 25 hours need to be a certified engine/prop combination? I thought
as soon as you put a different prop on it you were back to 40 hours - at least
in the olden days...
Clyde Barcus <barcusc@comcast.net> wrote: .hmmessage P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px;
PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } BODY.hmmessage
{ FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } Hi George,
I did check, the engine stands alone when it comes to certification. However,
to keep the certification I would not be able to do anything but certain types
of maintenance myself, it would require a certified mechanic. One other point,
it is possible to get 25 hours instead of the 40 hour restriction.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
----- Original Message -----
From: george may
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
clyde--
You might want to check the regs again. If you hang that nice rebuilt certified
engine on your experimental plane, it is no longer certified.
George May
601XL 912s
> From: barcusc@comcast.net
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
> Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:00:15 -0600
>
>
> I bought a run out O-200 (With logbooks) from Wentworth for $2,800 with a
> replacement guarantee for any major component that cannot be returned to
> service. I was also given the name of a reputable company that rebuilds
> cylinders, the cost for best case was $325.00 each and the worst case of
> $600.00 each. The bottom end of the O-200 has a very good reputation for
> strength and reliability, check out a photo of the split case on the
> internet and you will see it has a very large front bearing. Parts, repair
> manuals, and videos showing how to rebuild the O-200 are readily available.
> I was told by Aircraft mechanics it is a very simple engine to rebuild
> compared to the auto engines I have rebuilt. I was going to rebuild it
> myself but I met a mechanic at the EAA Chapter I belong to and he agreed to
> work with me for a reasonable price, of course I will be doing the grunt
> work and the engine will remain certified.
> If one prefers new, the bottom end kit from Continental is $932.18, the
> total for 4 new cylinders in the new style comes to $4068.62 with no
> exchange.
> Originally I was going with Corvair but my family made it clear they would
> not fly with me unless I put a Continental or Lycoming in it, that is the
> reason for my change of heart.
>
> I hope that helps:
>
> Clyde Barcus
> 601 XL, Continental Powered
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:27 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: 2000 hours
>
>
> >
> > Alright, be patient with me as I am fairly new to all of this but.... Am
> > I crazy for considering an 0-200 overhaul myself (and hopefully with the
> > guidance of an A & P). I'm considering a corvair conversion as well, and
> > I really love the Jab. I understand that I can get a midtime Continental
> > for about 8,000 and rebuild a Corvair for slightly less. The Jab
> > unfortunately will knock your socks of at 18000 these days. Aside from
> > the $ I would like to gain the experience and knowledge from rebuilding
> > my own engine. I am literally shocked that I can find a thousand times
> > more information on how to convert your corvair to an aircraft engine than
> > simply how to perform your own overhaul on an o-200. Any sources for
> > information?
> >
> > Here is my logic:
> >
> > I am contemplating my own Corvair rebuild. I believe a Corvair conversion
> > to be slightly less reliable than a Continental or Lycosaur. Corvair
> > builders please dont consider this and insult as I will openly acknowledge
> > that I am a newbie. My beliefs are just that... The beliefs of a newbie.
> >
> > If I am contemplating my own auto conversion, then why shouldn't I
> > consider an o-200 overhaul myself?
> >
> > Something in my head just keeps telling me that an o-200 is 1940's
> > technology, using some common sense, having patience and the right tools
> > with some guidance and an overhaul manual that an overhaul should be
> > accomplishable by anybody that would also be a candidate for a corvair
> > rebuild.
> >
> > In any case even if I purchase a mid time Cont I sure would like someone
> > with more experience than I to perform inspections on the darn thing.
> >
> > --------
> > One Rivet at a Time!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166860#166860
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
&g=================
>
>
>
---------------------------------
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Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
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Message 11
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Subject: | elevator trim tab runaway unlikely |
do not archive
I've been on this list since late 1998, flying since 2002. Never in
that time has anyone written to comment on the actual experience of a
runaway MAC/Ray Allen trim. Fuse it as per good aviation wiring
procedures, or put it on a circuit breaker if it makes you feel more
secure. The truth, as someone pointed out wisely a week ago, is that if
a trim would ever "run away," you won't have time to pull the breaker
before it goes to limits. Pulling the breaker will not restore it to
normal - so why the extra expense of a breaker?
Just make it a habit to spend some time every few flight hours to
practice running the trims (aileron, elevator) to limits and learning
and reinforcing necessary compensation procedures. You practice slow
flight, stalls, and simulated engine out every few hours, just make this
part of the "practice checklist" you do at least monthly.
This list loves the "Do that and you're gonna DIE!" type topics so if
anyone has actually experienced a MAC/Ray Allen trim runaway personally
- none of that 'I heard' stuff - please post it here.
As with many things in life flying has its risks - manage those risks as
you see fit. K.I.S.S.
...now, on with spring! jeff
I second Dave Gallagher's advice regarding a CB for the trim. The RAC
instructions advise a 2amp fuse or breaker so buy a breaker that can be
shut off if the problem arises. That's what I did as well.
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns |
George,
I feel sure you are right about the engine and prop. I will ask that
question specifically.
Regards
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Wings, Tail & Engine Complete
Working on Fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: george may
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:05 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: O-200 Questions & Concerns
Clyde--
It will be interesting to see what you find. My understanding is
that if you have a certified engine & prop the 25 hours apply. However,
once you hang the certified engine on an experimental plane(regardless
of who maintains it) it is no longer certified and can never be
certified again.
good luck
George May
601XL 912s
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: barcusc@comcast.net
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: O-200 Questions & Concerns
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 08:03:36 -0600
Re: Continental O-200
Since my post there have been a few comments and questions on
certification or loss of certification along with other concerns. To
help eliminate confusion I have decided to put together a list of
questions and call EAA Headquarters for clarification. Because I am not
an expert on anything related to flying, I decided to join the EAA to
get good accurate information so I could lower the risk of making
expensive or dangerous mistakes. I plan on getting this done on Monday,
after discussing this with someone qualified in this area I will post
their answers. If anyone has a question (Related to this discussion)
they would like answered, email me and I will add it to the list.
Regards:
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Wings, Tail & Engine Complete
Working on Fuselage
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
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Message 13
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Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
The weight of my 601xl, Jabiru 3300 with paint and upholstery, ready to fly less
fuel came in at 744 lbs. This includes the Dynon D180 and a Dynon D100 for
instruments, and a Garmin transponder and Icom A200 radio. I hope this helps!
--------
Ron Asbill
N601ZX - CH-601 XL
Jabiru 3300
Completed and Flying!~
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167117#167117
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Subject: | Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns |
There is a QBK that was built in California and he hung an O-200. He only
had to fly 5 hrs. It may only depend on who inspects it.
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: | Re: 601 XL Empty Weight |
Yes! Great information.
--------
Dale
Flying Cessna 170B
Building Zenith 601XL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167128#167128
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Bill,
You might try West Marine, they have spade disconnects. You could then
cover this with heat shrink tubing.
Here is a tiny url <http://tiny.cc/GuWX0> http://tiny.cc/GuWX0
Hope this helps.
Bill Cribb
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 3:57 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Second thoughts
All-
There has to be a source for these plugs. The wing position lights that
I bought used from Wentworth's that came off a '50s Bonanza has them. You
can tell everything's original.
Good enough for Beech, good enough for me.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Naumuk <mailto:naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: Where?
All-
Where can I get aviation quality connectors such as those in the
picture? These came from the local hardware store and I want to make sure
I'm using the best.
No listing on ACS. Must have them to enable me to easily service my
belly strobe.
Not my best photography!
Thanks.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
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As many of you know, I recently had a injury to my right hand that has
temporarily stopped progress on "Lil Bruiser". This forum is hardly an appropriate
place to discuss medical problems, but since I am so near completion, with the
passage of time and no first flight, some might wonder if I had become a
slacker, or just gave up. I wanted to assure you that is not the case.
Since I started this airplane, I have been "off line" for two cataract
surgeries, a detached retina, diverticulitis, a prostate biopsy, and who knows
how
many cuts and bruises. Those and the current "inconvenience" are just that, and
certainly not "show stoppers". Sure, it will probably delay that first flight
a month or so, but happen it will! And you can bet the rent money on it.
Thanks for your concern,
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Do not archive
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Subject: | Re: O-200 Questions & Concerns |
I think you'll find that was under the E-LSA rules which we can no longer take
advantage of.
LHusky(at)aol.com wrote:
> There is a QBK that was built in California and he hung an O-200. He only had
to fly 5 hrs. It may only depend on who inspects it.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167146#167146
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Jay,
You are an inspiration for us all. To paraphrase the NRA, my motto is "I'll stop
flying when they pry my cold dead hand from the stick."
Cheers!
Tim
Do not archive
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167147#167147
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Subject: | Another day another disaster |
So, here I am in the Arizona sun with temperature in the low 80s.
I painted my fuselage today and need advise. Advise from experienced
painters...
The fuselage was primed with a two part epoxy primer (green).
Its cured for months and has been scuffed for that extra "bite".
In some spots I used Tempo primer from a can. Aircraft Spruce sells the
stuff for priming under epoxy paints so I "think" is a good product.
Well I see bleeding in some areas and wonder if its the "zinc" type
primer?
Anyway, what do I need to do ? I assume I let it all cure for a few
days and lightly sand and apply one last light coat..???...
Any thoughts ??
Thanks
Steve
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Subject: | Flying Today - Steep Turns |
Fellow Zen-Builders:
Today I went for a flight in my airplane with my instructor and took a photo off
the left wing while doing some steep turns at 4,500 feet. Wow that was fun!
I spent a few hours up there having a great time. Here's a picture:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/Flying/3_1_2008_Turning.JPG
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167166#167166
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Subject: | drill size for canopy self-tapping screws? |
I'm experimenting with various ways to fasten the canopy to the hoops. The
factory approach uses NAS548p6-10 self-tapping screws. But they don't say
(plans or photo guide) what size hole to drill in the tubes after the #40
pilot hole through the canopy and the tube. The best information I've been
able to find (for a similar screw on McMasters Carr) says a #32 hole. Anyone
have any advice?
-- Craig
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Subject: | drill size for canopy self-tapping screws? |
Craig,
I drilled w/ #30 for A4 clecos. The screws went in just fine.
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
"Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote:
>
>I'm experimenting with various ways to fasten the canopy to the hoops. The
>factory approach uses NAS548p6-10 self-tapping screws. But they don't say
>(plans or photo guide) what size hole to drill in the tubes after the #40
>pilot hole through the canopy and the tube. The best information I've been
>able to find (for a similar screw on McMasters Carr) says a #32 hole. Anyone
>have any advice?
>
>-- Craig
>
>
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Subject: | Nose Wheel Question |
I want to order a nose wheel for my project. I found the same part number
that Zenith has, for a lot less at ACS. Now, they have 2 different size
bearings. Can anyone tell me the bearing size that comes with the kit, since
I
will probably order the axle from them.
Larry Husky
N667H (Reserved)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step... I have
now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so simple
in the manual...
I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as similar to
plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is generally a miserable
material to work with.
I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$ also
make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be being rubbed
by a piece of steel cable.
OK. I'm done venting.
But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the following
tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel with
cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which more or
less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it stinks like
hell. There must be a better way.
As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point so
that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the rest when
I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't think you can
truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the cables. If
you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should have filed
a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are drilling out rivets.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling out rivets.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Cut mine on a bandsaw no problem. You have a bit of flashing to deal with,
but it comes off very easily with an exacto knife. Drilling created some
flash that needs to be cleaned up with an exacto as well.
My method was to:
1) Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings first.
2) Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching holes
3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66 sheet with
a bandsaw
4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt sander, using brief
contact and then allowing for a quick cool down and then back at it, to
bring the N66 to the same dimension as the fairing. It took me about 5
minutes per fairing to get the N66 cut and sanded to size
5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto knife.
FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the fairlead
material, but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and the
factory just cuts a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched fuse
side. I did the same with a milling machine cutter in a machining vise on a
drill press.
Detail can be seen on my blog at www.mykitlog.com/paulried/
Hope that helps
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
wrote:
>
> I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...
> I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so
> simple in the manual...
>
> I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as
> similar to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is
> generally a miserable material to work with.
>
> I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the
> a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be
> being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.
>
> OK. I'm done venting.
>
> But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
> following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same),
> dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel
> which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and
> it stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
>
> As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this
> point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the
> rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't
> think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run
> the cables. If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you
> should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you
> are drilling out rivets. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired
> of drilling out rivets.
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
>
>
--
Paul Riedlinger
cndmovn@gmail.com
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
I cut mine with a bandsaw.
George Swinford
----- Original Message -----
From: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 9:22 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Rudder Cable farings
>
> I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step...
I have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so
simple in the manual...
>
> I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as
similar to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is
generally a miserable material to work with.
>
> I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the
a$$ also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be
being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.
>
> OK. I'm done venting.
>
> But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same),
dremmel with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel
which more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and
it stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
>
> As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this
point so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the
rest when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't
think you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run
the cables. If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you
should have filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you
are drilling out rivets. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired
of drilling out rivets.
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200
>
>
> --
6:32 PM
>
>
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Subject: | Not your usual accident report |
But fascinating reading. I would love to hear Brandon Tucker's feedback
since he flies one of these things:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 060509X00531&key=1
NTSB Identification: CHI06MA121.
The docket is stored in the Docket Management System (DMS). Please contact
Records Management Division
14 CFR Public Use
Accident occurred Tuesday, April 25, 2006 in Nogales, AZ
Probable Cause Approval Date: 10/31/2007
Aircraft: General Atomics Predator B, registration: None
Injuries: 1 Uninjured.
The unmanned aircraft (UA), a Predator B, collided with the terrain
following a loss of engine power while patrolling the southern U.S. border
on a Customs and Border Protection (CPB) mission.
The UA's takeoff was delayed due to the inability to establish a
communication link between the UA and Pilot Payload Operator (PPO)-1 console
during initial power-up. After troubleshooting the problem, an avionics
technician switched the main processor cards between PPO-1 and PPO-2.
Personnel who were maintaining the unmanned aircraft system (UAS) stated
there were very few spare parts purchased with the UAS, which is why they
switched the main processor cards instead of replacing the card in PPO-1.
The link was subsequently established, and the flight was initiated.
The flight was being flown from a ground control station (GCS), which
contained two nearly identical control consoles: PPO-1 and PPO-2. Normally,
a certified pilot controls the UA from PPO-1, and the camera payload
operator (typically a U.S. Border Patrol agent) controls the camera, which
is mounted on the UA, from PPO-2. Although the aircraft control levers
(flaps, condition lever, throttle, and speed lever) on PPO-1 and PPO-2
appear identical, they may have different functions depending on which
console controls the UA. When PPO-1 controls the UA, movement the condition
lever to the forward position opens the fuel valve to the engine; movement
to the middle position closes the fuel valve to the engine, which shuts down
the engine; and movement to the aft position causes the propeller to
feather. When the UA is controlled by PPO-1, the condition lever at the
PPO-2 console controls the camera's iris setting. Moving the lever forward
increases the iris opening, moving the lever to the middle position locks
the camera's iris setting, and moving the lever aft decreases the opening.
Typically, the lever is set in the middle position.
Console lockup checklist procedures indicate that, before switching
operational control between the two consoles, the pilot must match the
control positions on PPO?2 to those on PPO-1 by moving the PPO-2 condition
lever from the middle position to the forward position, which keeps the
engine operating. The pilot stated in a postaccident interview that, during
the flight, PPO-1 locked up, so he switched control of the UA to PPO-2. In
doing so, he did not use the checklist and failed to match the position of
the controls on PPO-2 to how they were set on PPO-1. This resulted in the
condition lever being in the fuel cutoff position when the switch to PPO-2
was made, and the fuel supply to the engine was shut off.
With no engine power, the UA began to descend. The pilot realized that the
UA was not maintaining altitude but did not immediately identify that the
condition lever was in the fuel cutoff position. The pilot and avionics
technician decided to shut down the entire system and send the UA into its
lost-link profile, which is a predetermined autonomous flightpath, until
they could figure out what the problem was. After the system was shut down,
the UA descended below line of sight (LOS), and communications could not be
reestablished. The UA began to fly its lost-link profile as it descended to
impact with the terrain.
When the UA lost engine power, it began to operate on battery power. On
battery power, the UA began to shed electrical equipment to conserve
electrical power. In doing so, electrical power to the transponder was shut
down. This resulted in air traffic control not being able to detect a Mode C
transponder return for the UA as it descended below the bottom of the
temporary flight restricted airspace. The primary radar return was also lost
when the UA descended below the LOS in the mountainous area.
The investigation revealed a series of computer lockups had occurred since
the CBP UAS began operating. Nine lockups occurred in a 3-month period
before the accident, including 2 on the day of the accident before takeoff
and another on April 19, 2006, 6 days before the accident. Troubleshooting
before and after the accident did not determine the cause of the lockups.
Neither the CBP nor its contractors had a documented maintenance program
that ensured that maintenance tasks were performed correctly and that
comprehensive root-cause analyses and corrective action procedures were
required when failures, such as console lockups, occurred repeatedly.
Review of the CBP's training records showed that the accident pilot had
recently transitioned from flying the Predator A to flying the Predator B
and had only 27 hours of Predator B flight time. According to the CBP, the
pilot was given verbal approval to fly its Predator B with the caveat that
the pilot's instructor would be present in the GCS when the pilot was
flying. This verbal approval was not standard practice for the CBP. The
instructor pilot was in another building on the airport and did not enter
the GCS until after it was shut down and the UA entered the lost-link
procedure.
The investigation also revealed that the CBP was providing a minimal amount
of operational oversight for the UAS program at the time of the accident.
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause(s) of
this accident as follows:
The pilot's failure to use checklist procedures when switching operational
control from PPO-1 to PPO-2, which resulted in the fuel valve inadvertently
being shut off and the subsequent total loss of engine power, and lack of a
flight instructor in the GCS, as required by the CBP's approval to allow the
pilot to fly the Predator B. Factors associated with the accident were
repeated and unresolved console lockups, inadequate maintenance procedures
performed by the manufacturer, and the operator's inadequate surveillance of
the UAS program.
-- Craig
Do not archive
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Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
I don't see how a circuit breaker or fuse would help at all if you
have run-away trim. By the time you turn off the power to the trim
servo, the trim will already be crashed into one end of the travel or
the other. Turning off the power just guarantees it will stay there.
Fortunately, I have heard reports that it doesn't take super-human
strength to overcome full limit trim.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 10:59 AM 2/29/2008, you wrote:
>I second Dave Gallagher's advice regarding a CB for the trim. The
>RAC instructions advise a 2amp fuse or breaker so buy a breaker that
>can be shut off if the problem arises. That's what I did as well.
>
>Dred
>
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Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Question |
The 601XL has a 5/8" front wheel axle.
I replaced the axle when I replaced the bearings.
I bought 5/8" stock + hacksawed a piece to fit and
used a die to tap the threads.
Regarding the bearings:
Search the archives using 'tapered'. some results:
front wheel bearing failure - CH601XL, stock Matco wheel
tapered roller bearings for my CH601XL front wheel
I got my replacement bearings at:
US Bearings & Drives
Seattle, WA 206-762-3800
2 - Timken 03062 Tapered Roller Bearing Cones, $16.52 each
2 - Timken 03162 Tapered Roller Bearing Cup, $8.52 each
from: http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/sec-r.pdf
Cone Cone Cup or
Bore Bore Cone
Our "A" or Cup Length
Timken Sequence Per Cup O.D. O.D. Inches
Number Type Number Each "B" MM "D" or "E"
362 Cup 442752 19.27 3.543 90 .625
They had a parts book that enabled us to select a cup that
would fit the wheel and a cone that fit the 5/8" axle.
Verify that your inner and outer diameters match these parts.
Matco told me that they use tapered bearings with a 3/4 inch
axle, and the same wheel for some applications. So the wheel
was set up for tapered bearings. It needs a ridge on the
inner side of the bearing cup to hold it in place.
Joe E @ BFI
N633Z, CH601XL, 505 hours
P.S. I used a hacksaw to cut my fairleads.
On Sat, 1 Mar 2008, LHusky@aol.com wrote:
> I want to order a nose wheel for my project. I found the same part number
> that Zenith has, for a lot less at ACS. Now, they have 2 different size
> bearings. Can anyone tell me the bearing size that comes with the kit, since
I
> will probably order the axle from them.
> Larry Husky
> N667H (Reserved)
> do not archive
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Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable farings |
Hi Paul:
Nylon 66 is a good material for fairleads because of its wear
characteristics, as you have found it is a pain to machine though. Rough
shaping can be done on a bandsaw but for final accurate shaping the best way is
to
use a milling machine and high speed steel end mills. A light spray of water
is all that is needed to keep the workpiece and the cutter cool.
do not archive.
John Read
Phone: 303-648-3261
Fax: 303-648-3262
Cell: 719-494-4567
In a message dated 3/1/2008 10:58:24 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,
cndmovn@gmail.com writes:
Cut mine on a bandsaw no problem. You have a bit of flashing to deal with,
but it comes off very easily with an exacto knife. Drilling created some
flash that needs to be cleaned up with an exacto as well.
My method was to:
1) Locate, cut and drill the rudder cable exit fairings first.
2) Clamp the N66 material to the fairing and drill matching holes
3) Rough cut the clecoed assembly (fairing and N66) from the N66 sheet with
a bandsaw
4) With everything still clecoed together, use a belt sander, using brief
contact and then allowing for a quick cool down and then back at it, to bring
the N66 to the same dimension as the fairing. It took me about 5 minutes per
fairing to get the N66 cut and sanded to size
5) trim any flashing of the material with a sharp exacto knife.
FYI, on the plans it tells you to cut an angled slot in the fairlead
material, but I peaked at at fellow builder's quick build fuse and the factory
just
cuts a slot to match the one machined into the prepunched fuse side. I did
the same with a milling machine cutter in a machining vise on a drill press.
Detail can be seen on my blog at _www.mykitlog.com/paulried/_
(http://www.mykitlog.com/paulried/)
Hope that helps
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:22 AM, MHerder <_michaelherder@beckgroup.com_
(mailto:michaelherder@beckgroup.com) > wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "MHerder" <_michaelherder@beckgroup.com_
(mailto:michaelherder@beckgroup.com) >
I would like to take a moment to express my frustration with this step... I
have now spent 3 or more hours fiddling with this damn step. It looks so
simple in the manual...
I HATE cutting this material. The nylon fairlead material is not as similar
to plexiglass as one would think. It splinters, cracks and is generally a
miserable material to work with.
I guess the same properties of this material that make it a pain in the a$$
also make it durable enough to use as a material that will constantly be
being rubbed by a piece of steel cable.
OK. I'm done venting.
But seriously guys how are you cutting this stuff? I have tried the
following tablesaw (kickback safety issues not recommended), router (same), dremmel
with cutoff wheel and now I am using a larger pneumatic cutoff wheel which
more or less melts and slings pieces of melted plastic all over me and it
stinks like hell. There must be a better way.
As far as positioning goes I am only drilling two of the holes at this point
so that if I need to tweak the location a little I can I'll drill the rest
when I actually install rudder and start adjusting controls. I don't think
you can truly know if everything is just right until you try to run the
cables. If you rivet everything all together and then realize that you should
have
filed a little more of the fairlead material away then there you are
drilling out rivets. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm tired of drilling
out rivets.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167200#167200)
--
Paul Riedlinger
_cndmovn@gmail.com_ (mailto:cndmovn@gmail.com)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Official Zenith-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the Zenith-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) below. The
complete Zenith-List FAQ including the Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/Zenith-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[ Note: This FAQ was designed to be displayed with a fixed width font such as
Courier. Proportional fonts will cause display formatting errors. ]
This FAQ can also be viewed in HTML online at the following address:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm
************************************************************
******* LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS *******
************************************************************
PLEASE READ. This document contains Zenith-List policies and information
for new and old subscribers. Understanding the Zenith-List policies will
minimize problems for the Administrator, and will help keep the Zenith-List
running smoothly for all of us.
******************************************
*** Quick Start Guide to List Features ***
******************************************
There are many features available on the Matronics Email Lists and each
one is described in detailed below. However, using the List Navigator
you can quickly access the complete set of features available for this
List. The List Navigator can be found at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
****************************************
*** How to Subscribe and Unsubscribe ***
****************************************
Simply go to the Web Page shown below and enter your email address and
select the List(s) that you wish to subscribe or unsubscribed from. You
may also use the handy "Find" function to determine the exact syntax of
your email address as it is subscribed to the List. Please see the
complete instructions at the top of the Web Page for more information.
The Subscribe/Unsubscribe web page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Note that you will receive TWO conformation emails regarding your subsciption
process. The first verifies that your subscription/unsubsciption request
was received, and the second confirms that the process has been completed.
You should receive the first email within a few minutes of your request.
The second conformation will arrive in less than 24 hours. You cannot post
until you receive the second conformation email message.
*****************************
*** How to Post a Message ***
*****************************
Send an email message to:
zenith-list@matronics.com
Your message will be redistributed to everyone currently subscribed
to the List.
*****************************************************
*** SPAM Fighter - You Must be Subscribed to Post ***
*****************************************************
When a new post is received by the system, the From: line of the message
is checked and compared against the current subscription list. If the
email address is found, the message is passed on to the List Processor.
If the email address isn't found in the current list of subscribers, it
is dumped. This serves to very effectively thwart 99% of the SPAM that
gets posted to the Lists.
Remember, however, that the syntax of your email address is very important
with regard to the configuration of your email application such as Outlook
or Eudora. For example, the following two email addresses may be
functionally equivalent, but only one would pass the Matronics Email SPAM
test depending on which was syntax was subscribed to the given List:
smith@machine.domain.com
smith@domain.com
Either email address syntax is alright, just be sure that you configure
your email application to match *exactly* the address you've subscibed to
the List.
**************************************
*** Enclosure Support on the Lists ***
**************************************
Limited posting of enclosures such as pictures, documents, and spreadsheets
is supported on the Lists. There are a number of restrictions, and these
are detailed below. Please abide by the rules put forth regarding the
content of enclosures.
These are some of the features and limits of enclosures on the Matronics
Lists:
1) Enclosures will only be posted to the Real Time version of the Lists.
2) Enclosures will NOT be included in the Daily Digest version of the Lists.
3) Enclosures WILL BE forwarded on to the BBS Forum Web site.
4) Enclosures will NOT be appended to the Archives.
5) Enclosures will NOT be available in the List Browse feature.
6) Only the following file types and extensions will be allowed:
bmp doc dwg dxf gif jpg pdf png txt xls
All other enclosures types will be rejected and email returned to
sender. The enclosure types listed above are relatively safe from
a virus standpoint and don't pose a particularly large security risk.
7) !! All incoming enclosures will be scanned for viruses prior to posting
to the List. This is done in real time and will not slow down
the process of posting the message !!
Here are some rules for posting enclosures. Failure to abide by these rules
could result in the removal of a subscriber's email address from the Lists.
1) Pay attention to what you are posting!! Make sure that the files
you are enclosing aren't HUGE (greater that 1MB). Remember that there
are still people checking they're email via dial up modem. If you post
30MB worth of pictures, you are placing an unnecessary burden on these
folks and the rest of us, for that matter.
2) SCALE YOUR PICTURES DOWN!!! I don't want to see huge 3000 x 2000
pictures getting posted that are 3 or 4MB each. This is just
unacceptable. Use a program such as Photoshop to scale the picture
down to something on the order of 800 x 600 and try to keep the
file size to less-than 200KB, preferably much less.
Microsoft has a really awesome utility available for free that allows
you to Right-Click on a picture in Explorer and automatically
scale it down and resave it. This is a great utility - get it, use it!
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Look for the link "Image Resizer"
3) !! This would seem to go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. Do not
post anything that would be considered offensive by your grandmother.
And you know what I'm saying; I don't want to see anything even
questionable. !!
4) REMEMBER THIS: If you post a 1MB enclosure to a List with 1000 members
subscribed, your 1MB enclosure must be resent 1000 times amounting
to 1MB X 1000 = 1 Gigabyte of network traffic!! BE CAREFUL and
BE COURTEOUS!
Also see the section below on the Matronics Photo and File Share where
you can have your files and photos posted on the Matronics web server
for long time viewing and availability.
*******************
*** Digest Mode ***
*******************
Each day, starting at 12 midnight PST US, a new 'digest' will be started.
This digest will contain the same information that is currently appended
to the archive file. It has all of the headers except for the "From:"
and "Subject:" lines removed, and includes a message separator consisting
of a line of underscores.
Each day at 23:55 PST US, the day's messages as described above will be
combined and sent as a single message to everyone on the digest email list.
To subscribe to the digest list, use the same subscription web form
described above, and just select the Digest version of the List.
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Note that you *can* be subscribed to both the realtime and digest versions
of the List at the same time. This is perfectly acceptable.
Now some caveats:
* Messages sent to "zenith-list-digest" will be forwarded to the standard
email list. In other words, you cannot post messages only to the
digest List.
* If you are subscribed to both the regular List and the digest List, you
will receive the realtime postings as well as the digest at the end of
the day.
* If you reply to the digest email, your message will be forwarded to the
normal list associated with the digest. Important Note: Please change
the subject line to reflect the topic of your response! Also, please
*do not include all or most of the digest in your reply*.
****************************
*** List Digest Browser ***
****************************
An archive of all the List Digests can be found online in either plain text
or HTML format. These archives contain the exact Digest that was posted to
the Digest email list on the given day. The Digest Archives can be found
at the following location:
http://www.matronics.com/digest
*****************************************
*** The "DO NOT ARCHIVE" Message Flag ***
*****************************************
At times, your message may concern something that is revelent only to a very
small number of persons or to a limited area, and you may not wish to archive
it. In such a case, simply put the following phrase anywhere in the
message:
do not archive
Your message will not be appended to the archive, but will be sent to List
email distribution as normal.
**********************************************
***** READ THIS - Automatic Unsubscribes *****
**********************************************
Note that if your email address begins to cause problems such as bounced
email, mailbox is filled, or any other errors, your address will be promptly
removed from the List. If you discover that you are no longer receiving
messages from the Zenith-List, go to the following Web page, and look
for your email address and a possible reason for your removal.
The Matronics Email List uses utility called the "Email Weasel" that
automatically looks though the day's bounced email for addresses that
caused problems due to common things like "user is unknown", "mailbox
full", etc. If the Email Weasel removes your email address from the
Lists you will find record of it at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribed
If the problem listed on the web site above has been resolved, please feel
free to resubscribe to the Lists of your choice.
*******************************
*** List Member Information ***
*******************************
If you have not done so already, please email me your phone numbers and
paper mail address in the following format:
smith@somehost.com
Joe Smith
123 Airport Lane
Tower, CA 91234-1234
098-765-1234 w
123-456-7890 h
Please forward this information to the following email address:
requests@matronics.com
I have a file of such things, that I typically use to contact you when
there are problems with your email address. The information will NOT
be used for any other commercial purpose.
****************************************
*** Realtime Web Email List Browsing ***
****************************************
Recent messages posted to the Zenith-List are also made available on
the Web for realtime browsing. Seven days worth of back postings are
available with this feature. The messages can be sorted by Subject,
Author, Date, or Message Thread. The Realtime List Browser indexes are
updated twice per hour at xx:15 and xx:45. You can also reply to a message
or start a new message directly from the List Browser Interface (coming soon).
You do not have to be subscribed to the given list to use the List
Browser Interface in view-mode.
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-list
*******************************************
*** Web Forums Bulletin Board Interface ***
*******************************************
A phpBB BBS web Forums front end is available for all Zenith-List content.
content. The Forums contain all of the same content available via the email
distribution and found on the various archive viewing formats such as the
List Browse, etc. Any posts on the web Forums will be cross posted to the
respective email List, and posts to the Email List will be cross posted to
the web Forums.
You may view all List content on the Forums without any special login.
If you wish to post a message via the Web Forum interface, however, you
will need to Register. This is a simple process that takes only a few
minutes. A link to the Registration page can be found at the top of the
main web Forums page. Note that registering on the Forum web site also
enables you to send email posts to the Lists as well. You will also need to
Subscribe to the respective Email List as described above to receive the
Email Distribution of the List, however.
The Matroincs Email List Web BBS Forums can be found at the following URL:
http://forums.matronics.com
*********************************
*** Matronics Email List Wiki ***
*********************************
In an attempt to make it easy to store and find structured and often accessed
information, Matronics has installed a Wiki at:
http://wiki.matronics.com
The Wiki allows individuals to create web pages to contain useful information
for other users of the mailing lists and web site. Unlike an ordinary web page
where the content needs to be submitted to Matronics for inclusion, the Wiki
permits the users to construct their own pages and have them visible immediately.
While constructing pages for the Wiki is not difficult, some may not be
comfortable building pages. In that case, simply prepare the text and any
images and email it to:
wiki-support@matronics.com
One of the volunteers on that list will take your submission and construct
a Wiki page for you.
Often someone produces a particularly useful posting in email one one of the
Lists that would be of general interest. In that case Matronics may take that
post and convert it into a Wiki page.
*********************
*** List Archives ***
*********************
A file containing of all of the previous postings to the Zenith-List is
available on line. The archive file information is available via the
Web and FTP in a number of forms. Each are briefly described below:
* Zenith-List.FAQ
- Latest version of the Zenith-List Frequently Asked Question
page (this document).
* Zenith-Archive.digest.complete
- Complete file with most of the email header info removed and
page breaks inserted between messages.
* Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-??
- Same as the file above, but broken up into small sections that
can more easily handled.
* Zenith-Archive.digest.complete.zip
- Same as the Zenith-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in PKZIP format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
* Zenith-Archive.digest.complete.Z
- Same as the Zenith-Archive.digest.complete file above, but in
UNIX compress format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
Download Via FTP
----------------
The archive file is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.matronics.com
in the "/pub/Archives" directory. It is updated daily and can be found in
a number of formats as described above. (All filenames are case sensitive.)
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Archives
Download Via Web
----------------
The archives are also available via a web listing. These can be found
toward the bottom of the following web page:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
******************************************
*** Complete List Web Archive Browsing ***
******************************************
All messages posted to the Zenith-List are also available using the
Email List Archive Browsing feature. With this utility, all messages
in the List are indexed, and individual sub-archives can be browsed.
http://www.matronics.com/archive/archive-index.cgi?Zenith
*****************************************
**** High-Speed Archive Search Engine ***
*****************************************
You can use the custom, high-performance Matronics Email List Search Engine
to quickly locate and browse any messages that have been posted to the
List. The Engine allows the user to easily search any of the currently
available List archives.
http://www.matronics.com/search
****************************
*** File and Photo Share ***
****************************
With the Matronics Email List File and Photo Share you can share pictures
and other data with members of the List without having to forward a
copy of it to everyone. To share your Files and Photos, simply email
them to:
pictures@matronics.com
!! ==> Please including the following information with each submission:
1) Email Lists that they are related to.
2) Your Full Name.
3) Your Email Address.
4) One line Subject description.
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic.
6-x) One-line Description of each photo or file
Prior to public availability of the files and photos, each will be scanned
for viruses. Please also note that the process of making the files and
photos available on the web site is a pseudo-manual process, and I try to
process them every few days.
Following the availability of the new Photoshare, an email message will be
sent to the Email Lists enumerated in 1) above indicating that the new
Share is available and what the direct URL to it is.
For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
Index Page:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
**************************
*** List Archive CDROM ***
**************************
A complete Matronics Email List Archive CD is available that contains
all of the archives since the beginning of each of the Lists. The archives
for all of the Lists are included on the CD along with a freeware search
engine written by a list member. The CD is burned the day you order it
and will contain archive received up to the last minute. They make
great gifts!
http://www.matronics.com/ArchiveCDROM
**********************************
*** List Support Contributions ***
**********************************
The Matronics Lists are run *completely* through the support of it members.
You won't find any PopUpAds, flashing Banner ads, or any other form of
annoying commercialism on either the Email Messages or the List web pages
associated with the Matronics Email Lists. Every year during November
I run a low-key, low-pressure "Fund Raiser" where, throughout the month,
I ask List members to make a Contribution in any amount with which they
are comfortable.
I will often offer free gifts with certain contribution levels during the
Fund Raiser to increase the participation. The gifts are usually donated
by companies that are themselves List members.
Your Contributions go directly to supporting the operation of the Lists
including the high-speed, business-class Internet connection, server
system hardware and software upgrades, and to partially offset the many
many hours I spend running, maintaining, upgrading, and developing the
variety of services found here.
Generally Contributions range from $20 to $100 and are completely voluntary
and non-compulsory. I ask only that if person enjoys the Lists and obtains
value from them, that they make a Contribution of equal magnitude.
Contributions are accepted throughout the year, and if you've just
subscribed, feel free to make a Contribution when you've settled in.
The website for making SSL Secure Contributions is listed below. There are
a variety of payment methods including Visa and MasterCard, PayPal, and
sending a personal check.
If you enjoy and value the List, won't you make a Contribution today to
support its continued operation?
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
Zenith-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Zenith-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the Zenith-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
Zenith-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the Zenith-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
Message 33
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PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
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|
Subject: | Official Zenith-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the Zenith-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
Zenith-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/Zenith-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
Zenith-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Zenith-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the Zenith-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
Zenith-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the Zenith-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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