Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:45 AM - Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking (JG)
2. 01:13 AM - Re: Aircraft Quality (Michael Hilderbrand)
3. 03:20 AM - Re: Aircraft Quality (David Downey)
4. 03:38 AM - Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking (rroberts)
5. 04:49 AM - Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking (John Bolding)
6. 05:03 AM - Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking (JG)
7. 07:16 AM - Fuel Caps leaking (Joe Spencer)
8. 08:01 AM - Re: Another day another disaster (japhillipsga@aol.com)
9. 08:57 AM - Polishing with Nuvite (John Davis)
10. 10:06 AM - Re: Another day another disaster (n85ae)
11. 11:20 AM - Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (skyridersbn)
12. 11:35 AM - Re: Aircraft Quality (David Downey)
13. 12:08 PM - Re: Aircraft Quality (Juan Vega)
14. 02:37 PM - Monday Evening Chat Room (George Race)
15. 02:41 PM - Clarification---Certified Engines & Experimental aircraft. (Clyde Barcus)
16. 02:52 PM - Re: Polishing with Nuvite (Gary Ray)
17. 03:44 PM - Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (annken100)
18. 04:12 PM - Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (skyridersbn)
19. 04:20 PM - Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (annken100)
20. 04:49 PM - Re: Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (Craig Payne)
21. 05:00 PM - Re: Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (raymondj)
22. 05:03 PM - monday nite chat (burbby)
23. 05:09 PM - Re: Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? (David Downey)
24. 05:24 PM - Powder requirements (John Bolding)
25. 05:40 PM - Re: monday nite chat (MacDonald Doug)
26. 06:31 PM - Dash panel (John Short)
27. 06:41 PM - Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway (Art Olechowski)
28. 07:01 PM - Re: 2000 hours (steveadams)
29. 07:23 PM - SOUTHERN B-B-QUE FLY-IN MARCH 15th UPDATE ! (william Clapp)
30. 07:45 PM - Re: Powder requirements (Larry H)
31. 08:06 PM - Paint sprayers (Darrell Haas)
32. 08:15 PM - Re: Clarification---Certified Engines & Experimental aircraft. (Darrell Haas)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
That's exactly right Joe. Need to solder or epoxy those little holes
inside the cap.
JG
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Spencer
To: Zenith-List@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 Fuel Caps leaking
Ben
Thanks for the reply. I brazed on forward facing 3 inch high fuel vent
tubes while building the plane. I don't believe that's the problem...am
thinking it's maybe more of a problem with the double walled fuel caps
supplied by Zenith in the kit...the fuel may be getting between the 2
parts of the cap and then getting sucked out regardless of gasket
integrity???You are correct in that it only happens when near full.
Thanks again
Joe
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
I know I am pee'ing in the wind since I have no validation for this, but I heard
Grade 8 will snap at failure, and AN bolts will bend first... ???
Michael Hilderbrand
----- Original Message ----
From: "Jaybannist@cs.com" <Jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 2, 2008 8:30:30 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Aircraft Quality
I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried Google and
Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use aircraft quality."
If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an AN bolt, what makes
the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
It is not necessarily better quality. About 10 years ago a flood of "bogus" "aircraft
grade" hardware, AN, MS, NAS, NASM, BAC, showed up in the market and there
were some failures that led to a very expensive testing and certification
to fasteners in the supply chain. That is with fairly rigorous process and quality
standards that "aircraft grade" hardware come burdened with.
Grade 8 bolts have a less rigorous pedigree requirement (in my opinion). Things
like rolled threads, perpendicularity of the washer face under the head and the
head itself, concentricity, fillet geometry under the head, alloy, heat treatments,
temper, coating/plating, are all controlled in "aircraft grade" hardware.
Using "aircraft grade" is expensive but gives the peace of mind that the joint
will perform as designed.
I'm very curious. What makes a bolt "aircraft quality"? I've tried Google and
Yahoo and have not gotten any REAL answer. Just "always use aircraft quality."
If a Grade 8 bolt has the same tensile strength as an AN bolt, what makes
the AN superior? Can someone fill me in?
Jay in Dallas 601XL N2630J "Lil Bruiser"
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
I'll take two of those modified caps if anyone knows where to get them. ZAC just
emailed me back saying they couldn't provide the part??
--------
Low & Slow
Rick
www.n701rr.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167367#167367
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
Hi Joe, How's tricks in Miss.?? seal up the cap halves with proseal
, had to do that on a Pacer once. John
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Spencer
To: Zenith-List@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 9:46 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 Fuel Caps leaking
Ben
Thanks for the reply. I brazed on forward facing 3 inch high fuel vent
tubes while building the plane. I don't believe that's the problem...am
thinking it's maybe more of a problem with the double walled fuel caps
supplied by Zenith in the kit...the fuel may be getting between the 2
parts of the cap and then getting sucked out regardless of gasket
integrity???You are correct in that it only happens when near full.
Thanks again
Joe
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 701 Fuel Caps leaking |
Of course that vent tube brazed to the top of the cap needs to go
through the inner portion of the cap as well, then the original holes in
that inner layer are plugged.
Those caps with that original venting system are only suitable for a
filler neck that's well above the fuel level, like in a car gas tank.
If the fuel sloshes up against the cap, like it will do in a full
aircraft tank, they will leak.
The new vent tube only needs to be 1/8" bore, and three inches high is
enough to prevent fuel sloshing up and out. Bent so it's facing forward
pressurizes it very slightly and prevents it from sucking fuel out.
Bend it so that the very front is a bit down and then rain doesn't get
in. There's no airflow as such into the tube, just enough to replace
fuel volume used and release fuel vapour pressure.
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: JG
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 701 Fuel Caps leaking
That's exactly right Joe. Need to solder or epoxy those little holes
inside the cap.
JG
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Spencer
To: Zenith-List@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:46 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 Fuel Caps leaking
Ben
Thanks for the reply. I brazed on forward facing 3 inch high fuel
vent tubes while building the plane. I don't believe that's the
problem...am thinking it's maybe more of a problem with the double
walled fuel caps supplied by Zenith in the kit...the fuel may be getting
between the 2 parts of the cap and then getting sucked out regardless of
gasket integrity???You are correct in that it only happens when near
full.
Thanks again
Joe
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 7
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| Subject: | Fuel Caps leaking |
John
Right. Your description is just about exactly what I did on the vent
tube and of course after really looking at the cap it's obvious that
fuel is getting around the portion of the vent tube that extends inside
the fuel cap as well as thru the existing small holes. Will epoxy all
that up or maybe braze and believe that will do it.
Guys thanks for the replies.
Joe
Of course that vent tube brazed to the top of the cap needs to go
through the inner portion of the cap as well, then the original holes in
that inner layer are plugged.
Those caps with that original venting system are only suitable for a
filler neck that's well above the fuel level, like in a car gas tank.
If the fuel sloshes up against the cap, like it will do in a full
aircraft tank, they will leak.
The new vent tube only needs to be 1/8" bore, and three inches high is
enough to prevent fuel sloshing up and out. Bent so it's facing forward
pressurizes it very slightly and prevents it from sucking fuel out.
Bend it so that the very front is a bit down and then rain doesn't get
in. There's no airflow as such into the tube, just enough to replace
fuel volume used and release fuel vapour pressure.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Another day another disaster |
Steve, I have some experience with paint and painting once over zinc primer. I
was not able to re coat sufficiently to halt bleed through totally. I don't think
allowing any amount to cure time with allow you to re coat with success. On
my plane, thankfully, the zinc bled though under the wing at the skin seam and
is very difficult to see, but I know where it is. If it had been on top somewhere
I would have had to remove to metal. Zinc will bleed through two coats
of two part epoxy and two coats of polyurethane single stage finish coat. If there
is another fix I don't know what it is. I ended up taking both flaps to the
metal to remove the zinc. Sorry I can't be more help. This issue has a long
thread in the archives. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: steve <notsew_evets@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 5:56 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Another day another disaster
So, here I am in the Arizona sun with temperature in the low 80s.
I painted my fuselage today and need advise.? Advise from experienced painters...
The fuselage was primed with a?two part epoxy primer (green).
Its cured for months and has been scuffed for that extra "bite".
In some spots I used Tempo primer from a can.? Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff
for priming under epoxy paints so I "think" is a good product.
Well I see bleeding in some areas and wonder if its the "zinc" type primer??
Anyway, what do I need to do ??? I assume I let it all cure for a few days and
lightly sand and apply one last light coat..???...
Any thoughts ??
?
Thanks
?
Steve
Message 9
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| Subject: | Polishing with Nuvite |
Hi All,
Can any of you guys who have used Nuvite to polish you plane tell me how
much of their polishing materials you used ?
And which grades did you find to work best ?
Thanks,
John Davis
Burnsville, NC
601 XL - Jab 3300
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Another day another disaster |
You might try a Waterborne Epoxy primer like System Three WR-155,
the Zinc primer you have is probably being dissolved and bleeding into
the primer you are using now due to the solvents.
Of course, if you use the WR-155, then you'll need to test all your topcoats
for compatability with the primer ...
Jeff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167417#167417
Message 11
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| Subject: | Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
I am about to buy a small blasting unit so I can clean up my aluminum parts. I
have available 2 different grit sizes I could buy. The grit grade of "fine"
is 24 grit. The other one has a grit grade of 12 and is called "course". Which
one is the best one to use for cleaning up my Corvair engine parts? I also
have the tubes, valve covers, oil pan and baffles that are needing to be blasted.
Can I use the walnut shells on them or should I switch over to sand or a
different media??
Any information will be greatly appreciated!
Larry Hursh
CH601XL Rudder done, working on elevator kit and have wings on order.
Corvair powered
(N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167433#167433
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
Grade 8 bolts are to be 150,000 psi tensile strength minimum. AN3-AN8 bolts are
heat treated to 125,000 psi minimum tensile strength.
A lower strength bolt can indeed bend more before failure more readily than a higher
strength bolt. Bolted joints require well designed choices of the fasteners,
the plates being joined, service conditions, etc. Since the bolts are a relatively
small cost in the total, for airframes, why consider using other?
This discussion started with reference to WW referring to Grade 8 bolts in the
engine. The original and all subsequent GM test engines were built without AN,
MS, or NAS bolts - shouldn't their hardware be suitable?
Michael Hilderbrand <m_hilderbrand@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I know I am pee'ing in the wind since I have no validation for this, but I heard
Grade 8 will snap at failure, and AN bolts will bend first... ???
Michael Hilderbrand
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Quality |
keep in mind that one of the speculative reasons that 601 crashed 1.5 years ago
with a wing falure waws that the guy bought the plane and replaced the wing spar
bolt with local hardware store bolt. is it fact I do not know however i know
the AN bolts are cheap and that a good design can still fail due to pilot
failure on shoddy work and short cuts.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: David Downey <planecrazydld@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2008 2:33 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Aircraft Quality
>
>Grade 8 bolts are to be 150,000 psi tensile strength minimum. AN3-AN8 bolts are
heat treated to 125,000 psi minimum tensile strength.
>
>A lower strength bolt can indeed bend more before failure more readily than a
higher strength bolt. Bolted joints require well designed choices of the fasteners,
the plates being joined, service conditions, etc. Since the bolts are a
relatively small cost in the total, for airframes, why consider using other?
>
>This discussion started with reference to WW referring to Grade 8 bolts in the
engine. The original and all subsequent GM test engines were built without AN,
MS, or NAS bolts - shouldn't their hardware be suitable?
>
>Michael Hilderbrand <m_hilderbrand@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I know I am pee'ing in the wind since I have no validation for this, but I heard
Grade 8 will snap at failure, and AN bolts will bend first... ???
>
>Michael Hilderbrand
>
>
>
>
> Dave Downey
> Harleysville (SE) PA
> 100 HP Corvair
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Monday Evening Chat Room |
Please join us for our Monday evening chat room starting around 8:00 PM EST
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
George
CH-701 N73EX (Reserved)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Clarification---Certified Engines & Experimental aircraft. |
Because of all the comments and questions in response to the posting I
made on the Continental O-200, it became clear I needed to find out what
is correct. What I did find out was some of what I was told was right
and some was wrong, even though the information came from people heavily
involved in aviation including certified A & P's. I am making the
assumption that Joe Norris at EAA headquarters knows the right answer. I
spoke with Joe today, below is the questions I ask along with his
answers.
Question: Is a certified aircraft engine still certified after it is
installed in an experimental aircraft?
Answer: No,it is no longer certified. (George, you were right, I was
told the opposite by an A &P)
Question: If that is the case, then what about the 25 hour and 40 hour
test phase?
Answer: To get the 25 hour fly off you must prove it is a certified
engine including the correct prop and all accessories (carb, starter,
mags,etc) for that specific engine. The example he gave was: If it came
off a Cessna 150, the prop has to be the same pitch and diameter
designated for that application for anything else it will be assigned 40
hours. Once the inspection is done, the engine is no longer certified.
Question: Who can work on the engine at that point?
Answer: Anyone when it is on a experimental aircraft (E-AB.)
Question: When can you work on the engine or make changes to the
certified engine.
Answer: Immediately after the inspector leaves.
Question: Now that it is no longer certified, is it necessary to take
the data plate off?
Answer: No, actually it is best to leave it in place.
Question: When buying a used aircraft engine, how would someone like me
find about AD's on a particular engine?
Answer: www.faa.gov 1. Do a search on make and model 2. Ask around a
local EAA Chapter, most IAs have a CD Rom they can use to look up
information on any aircraft engine.
Question: What about the 5 hour test flight phase.
Answer: That was only for the so-called "fat ultralight" it has
expired..
Thanks to all, your response has pointed out the need for me to look for
better answers.
Clyde Barcus
601 XL, Continental Powered
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing with Nuvite |
John
#7 for initial compounding (slow bonnet lambs wool 3M)
#7 for initial polishing (cyclo)
C for secondary compounding (slow bonnet lambs wool 3M)
C for polishing (cyclo)
S for final polishing (cyclo)
Final cyclo with microfiber
I used mineral spirits to clean the metal between grit size changes but not
after the S polish since it will remove a
protective coating.
Polish as much as possible before attaching it to the aircraft. Especially
the bottom side of the wings and stabilizer.
I did not like the #9. It did not seem to cut as well as the #7.
I did not like the #6 for the same reason.
1/2 lb each for one 601XL possibility more of the #7 if any.
This will produce a pretty good appearance but it is not a perfect mirror.
It would take a double pass application of each step above for that. Takes
about 3 hours per Lf top, Lf bottom, Rt top, Rt Bottom wing surface.
You need thick chemical resistant rubber gloves and a face mask and a shower
after you work with this stuff. The residue is black and very fine.
Gary Ray 601XL
davgray@sbcglobal.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Davis" <johnd@data-tech.com>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 11:49 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Polishing with Nuvite
>
> Hi All,
>
> Can any of you guys who have used Nuvite to polish you plane tell me how
> much of their polishing materials you used ?
>
> And which grades did you find to work best ?
>
> Thanks,
> John Davis
> Burnsville, NC
> 601 XL - Jab 3300
>
>
> --
3:59 PM
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
Larry,
I used the fine grit and it worked well on my aluminum parts. It cleans and polishes
the aluminum very nicely. Just make sure that all the heavy grease and
oil is removed beforehand because you'll end up with neat little clumps of walnut
media.
The walnut media doesn't work well with steel parts unless they are already very
clean and rust-free. I used conventional sand blast media to clean the steel
parts.
Good luck,
Ken Pavlou
601XL / Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167500#167500
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
Thanks for the info Ken. I wasn't sure if walnut shells would do the steel parts
or not. Until I decided to do the Corvair Conversion, I honestly never heard
of using walnut shells before so this part is all new to me. I DID buy the
fine walnut shells, thinking if nothing else, I can use it as a "finishing blast".
I'll go down tomorrow and get a bag of silica sand for the steel parts.
I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder coating.
I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor Freight. It was a fraction
of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm looking for a used gas stove
to bake the parts in. I was looking for a primer to apply to the parts prior
to powder coating. My brother in law told me he didn't think I needed a primer,
just only an acid etch to lock up the rust. I have that already, just not
sure if I should or shouldn't use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that
one?
I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and hopefully,
I can get some really good information just from asking the right questions.
Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
Best Regards
Larry Hursh
--------
Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167502#167502
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
Larry,
I don't know much about powder coating. I believe that some sort of conversion
coating is required before the powder coat is applied. I'm sure a google search
will set you on the right path.
Good Luck,
Ken
601XL / Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167505#167505
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
I'm assuming you have William Wynne's conversion manual and also subscribe
to the Corvair e-mail list. Just make sure you don't sand-blast the Corvair
block itself.
If you are out looking for a used oven to bake your powder coated parts to
keep from contaminating your kitchen oven then you may have also already
read Mark Langford KR-2/Corvair site. If not go here and search for
"powder":
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/phoenix/
Corvaircraft e-mail list here: http://mylist.net/listinfo/corvaircraft
There is a searchable archive of the Corvaircraft list here:
http://www.maddyhome.com/corvairsrch/index.jsp
-- Craig
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of skyridersbn
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 5:09 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit??
Thanks for the info Ken. I wasn't sure if walnut shells would do the steel
parts or not. Until I decided to do the Corvair Conversion, I honestly
never heard of using walnut shells before so this part is all new to me. I
DID buy the fine walnut shells, thinking if nothing else, I can use it as a
"finishing blast". I'll go down tomorrow and get a bag of silica sand for
the steel parts.
I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder
coating. I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor Freight.
It was a fraction of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm looking for a
used gas stove to bake the parts in. I was looking for a primer to apply to
the parts prior to powder coating. My brother in law told me he didn't
think I needed a primer, just only an acid etch to lock up the rust. I have
that already, just not sure if I should or shouldn't use some type of primer
first. Any ideas on that one?
I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and
hopefully, I can get some really good information just from asking the right
questions.
Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
Best Regards
Larry Hursh
--------
Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167502#167502
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
Larry,
I believe they recommend against the use of a gas stove. Check their
instructions.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst."
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "skyridersbn" <skyridersbn@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 6:09 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit??
>
> Thanks for the info Ken. I wasn't sure if walnut shells would do the
> steel parts or not. Until I decided to do the Corvair Conversion, I
> honestly never heard of using walnut shells before so this part is all new
> to me. I DID buy the fine walnut shells, thinking if nothing else, I can
> use it as a "finishing blast". I'll go down tomorrow and get a bag of
> silica sand for the steel parts.
>
> I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder
> coating. I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor
> Freight. It was a fraction of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm
> looking for a used gas stove to bake the parts in. I was looking for a
> primer to apply to the parts prior to powder coating. My brother in law
> told me he didn't think I needed a primer, just only an acid etch to lock
> up the rust. I have that already, just not sure if I should or shouldn't
> use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that one?
>
> I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and
> hopefully, I can get some really good information just from asking the
> right questions.
> Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
>
> Best Regards
> Larry Hursh
>
> --------
> Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167502#167502
>
>
> --
> 10:01 AM
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | monday nite chat |
does anyone know the address of the monday nite chat?
Thanks
Gary
601XL
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Walnut Shell Blasting Media - Which Grit?? |
Please keep in mind that it is very difficult to purge more aggressive media to
change over to a less aggressive media. OK going the hard/heavy to soft/light
- just very hard to eliminate the harsh residual contamination.
Thanks for the info Ken. I wasn't sure if walnut shells would do the steel parts
or not. Until I decided to do the Corvair Conversion, I honestly never heard
of using walnut shells before so this part is all new to me. I DID buy the
fine walnut shells, thinking if nothing else, I can use it as a "finishing blast".
I'll go down tomorrow and get a bag of silica sand for the steel parts.
I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder coating.
I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor Freight. It was a fraction
of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm looking for a used gas stove
to bake the parts in. I was looking for a primer to apply to the parts prior
to powder coating. My brother in law told me he didn't think I needed a primer,
just only an acid etch to lock up the rust. I have that already, just not
sure if I should or shouldn't use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that
one?
I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and hopefully,
I can get some really good information just from asking the right questions.
Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
Best Regards
Larry Hursh
--------
Larry Hursh (N601LL Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167502#167502
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Powder requirements |
Spent a career selling powder equipment and blast equipment so I'll throw my
.02 in here.
Unlike a solvent born liquid paint, powder is VERY unforgiving of a
contaminated substrate, it MUST be clean, no oils, ect. Wiping it down
with solvent just spreads the oils around in lower concentrations. Rust HAS
to be removed down to the white metal. (If you're serious about a quality
job) A solvent born paint uses the solvents to "blend into" a contaminated
surface much better than a water born paint and infinitely better than
powder. A blasted surface with a little "tooth" is the preferred surface
for powder.
look for an electric oven instead of the gas fired one, much safer.
John Bolding
-----
> I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder
> coating. I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor
> Freight. It was a fraction of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm
> looking for a used gas stove to bake the parts in. I was looking for a
> primer to apply to the parts prior to powder coating. My brother in law
> told me he didn't think I needed a primer, just only an acid etch to lock
> up the rust. I have that already, just not sure if I should or shouldn't
> use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that one?
>
> I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and
> hopefully, I can get some really good information just from asking the
> right questions.
> Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
>
> Best Regards
> Larry Hursh
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: monday nite chat |
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
Doug
--- burbby <burbby@yahoo.com> wrote:
> does anyone know the address of the monday nite
> chat?
>
> Thanks
> Gary
> 601XL
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 26
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Has anyone considered making the panel form carbon fiber or composite
materials?
My thought is I would make for a slick looking, very strong glare free
surface.
Also thinking of using this technique for tips and farings.
CREATIVE SIGNWORKS
1168 Byron Rd.
Kaufman, Tx 75142
John & Mindy Short
972-962-7464
Cell: 214-240-3815
www.creative-sign-works.com
creativesigns@embarqmail.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: what if? elevator trim tab runaway |
On some of the larger airplanes a "trim clacker" aural alert is sounded if the
pitch trim is
manually or automatically activated for more then say three seconds to make the
crew member aware
of this potential failure mode. Time to install the aural warning box and an EICAS.
Just kidding
about the last part...
do not archive
Art
--- Paul Mulwitz <psm@att.net> wrote:
> I don't see how a circuit breaker or fuse would help at all if you
> have run-away trim. By the time you turn off the power to the trim
> servo, the trim will already be crashed into one end of the travel or
> the other. Turning off the power just guarantees it will stay there.
>
> Fortunately, I have heard reports that it doesn't take super-human
> strength to overcome full limit trim.
>
> Paul
> XL fuselage
>
>
> At 10:59 AM 2/29/2008, you wrote:
> >I second Dave Gallagher's advice regarding a CB for the trim. The
> >RAC instructions advise a 2amp fuse or breaker so buy a breaker that
> >can be shut off if the problem arises. That's what I did as well.
> >
> >Dred
> >
>
>
Message 28
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This topic comes up all the time. To get the 25 hour phase 1 you need a certified
engine/prop combo. However, once that engine is hung on your E-AB it is no
longer certified, no matter who does the maintenance. If you pull the engine and
want to put it into a certified aircraft, it needs to be signed off by an A+P.
It's much more likely that it will be signed off without being torn down if
all the work is done and documented by a certified mechanic, but there is no
way to maintain its certified status while it's on your experimental. Don't mess
with the data plate; you don't need to remove it to make it an experimental,
and it's value in the certified world is minimal without a data plate. In any
event it's pretty tough to do a thorough test protocol in 25 hours anyway,
so I wouldn't fret about it too much.
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=167544#167544
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| Subject: | SOUTHERN B-B-QUE FLY-IN MARCH 15th UPDATE ! |
Hi Folks - for any of you interested in the Southern B-B-Que Fly-in and get together
on March 15th there is some information for you at billclapp.com . I hope
to see some of you there for some fun and an excuse to fly and meet people.
Call me or email me if you have specific needs or questions. Thank you.
Bill Clapp
Bill Clapp - KR2S builder and pilot
Valdosta GA
www.billclapp.com
---------------------------------
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Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Powder requirements |
Thanks for the info John. I did realize that I need an electric oven instead of
a gas one. Makes sense because I never thought of "fumes" being so explosive.
Glad I asked about it.
I'm slowly learning about the powder coating too. I was told I need to use a
"pre-primer" (acid type solution) and another person suggested an "etching primer"
as a base coat. Everything I've been reading says I need only bare metal
for the best adhesion, but it MUST be clean as you said. I'm planning on powder
coating the push rod tubes, cylinder heads, and the rear cover. I still
haven't decided if I want to buy the "Corvair 100 HP valve covers from WW or
coat these too, along with the oil pan. Decisions, decisions! I think once I
learn all the in's and out's of powder coating, I'll want to paint anything and
everything I can get into the oven!
I read too that there is such a thing as a "low temp" powder but as of yet, I
haven't run across it for sale. Is there such a thing and if there is, where
could it be purchased at?
Like I said before, I'm such a newbie at this but I DO have the perfectionism
in me to do something extremely well if I do it at all. For me, there is no
such thing as "good enough". It HAS TO BE RIGHT or I will NOT do it. (I guess
this is why I'm going through the learning curve, asking as many questions as
I can to learn.
Thanks to all that are helping me to understand this process of powder coating.
I think it is going to be something that is going to be well worth the efforts!
Regards,
Larry Hursh
John Bolding <jnbolding1@teleshare.net> wrote:
Spent a career selling powder equipment and blast equipment so I'll throw my
.02 in here.
Unlike a solvent born liquid paint, powder is VERY unforgiving of a
contaminated substrate, it MUST be clean, no oils, ect. Wiping it down
with solvent just spreads the oils around in lower concentrations. Rust HAS
to be removed down to the white metal. (If you're serious about a quality
job) A solvent born paint uses the solvents to "blend into" a contaminated
surface much better than a water born paint and infinitely better than
powder. A blasted surface with a little "tooth" is the preferred surface
for powder.
look for an electric oven instead of the gas fired one, much safer.
John Bolding
-----
> I'm going to try something I've never done before and that is powder
> coating. I bought a powder coating gun and powder paint at Harbor
> Freight. It was a fraction of the cost there, compared to Sears. I'm
> looking for a used gas stove to bake the parts in. I was looking for a
> primer to apply to the parts prior to powder coating. My brother in law
> told me he didn't think I needed a primer, just only an acid etch to lock
> up the rust. I have that already, just not sure if I should or shouldn't
> use some type of primer first. Any ideas on that one?
>
> I'll be the first to admit here, I am a newbie. I have a lot to learn and
> hopefully, I can get some really good information just from asking the
> right questions.
> Any and all help is of course, GREATLY appreciated!
>
> Best Regards
> Larry Hursh
>
---------------------------------
Message 31
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What are people using for HVLP paint sprayers- The best for the buck?
Thanks,
Darrell
601 XL
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| Subject: | Re: Clarification---Certified Engines & Experimental aircraft. |
Clyde,
Thanks for doing the leg work.
Darrell
do not archive
On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Clyde Barcus <barcusc@comcast.net> wrote:
> Because of all the comments and questions in response to the posting I
> made on the Continental O-200, it became clear I needed to find out what is
> correct. What I did find out was some of what I was told was right and some
> was wrong, even though the information came from people heavily involved in
> aviation including certified A & P's. I am making the assumption that Joe
> Norris at EAA headquarters knows the right answer. I spoke with Joe today,
> below is the questions I ask along with his answers.
>
> Question: Is a certified aircraft engine still certified after it is
> installed in an experimental aircraft?
> Answer: No,it is no longer certified. (George, you were right, I was told
> the opposite by an A &P)
>
> Question: If that is the case, then what about the 25 hour and 40 hour
> test phase?
> Answer: To get the 25 hour fly off you must prove it is a certified engine
> including the correct prop and all accessories (carb, starter, mags,etc) for
> that specific engine. The example he gave was: If it came off a Cessna 150,
> the prop has to be the same pitch and diameter designated for that
> application for anything else it will be assigned 40 hours. Once the
> inspection is done, the engine is no longer certified.
>
>
> Question: Who can work on the engine at that point?
> Answer: Anyone when it is on a experimental aircraft (E-AB.)
>
> Question: When can you work on the engine or make changes to the certified
> engine.
> Answer: Immediately after the inspector leaves.
>
> Question: Now that it is no longer certified, is it necessary to take the
> data plate off?
> Answer: No, actually it is best to leave it in place.
>
> Question: When buying a used aircraft engine, how would someone like me
> find about AD's on a particular engine?
> Answer: www.faa.gov 1. Do a search on make and model 2. Ask around a
> local EAA Chapter, most IAs have a CD Rom they can use to look up
> information on any aircraft engine.
>
> Question: What about the 5 hour test flight phase.
> Answer: That was only for the so-called "fat ultralight" it has expired..
>
> Thanks to all, your response has pointed out the need for me to look for
> better answers.
>
> Clyde Barcus
> 601 XL, Continental Powered
>
>
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