Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:31 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing issues (lwinger)
2. 03:52 AM - Re: Painting XL nose strut (Paul Mulwitz)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: Painting XL nose strut (ashontz)
4. 05:39 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing issues (Jaybannist@cs.com)
5. 06:51 AM - 701: Replace stab brackets? (Tony Bonsell)
6. 07:05 AM - Re: new ring mount old cowl (MacDonald Doug)
7. 07:17 AM - Zodiac XL Cruise Speed with 80HP (James E. Lanier)
8. 07:37 AM - Re: Bending 40 thou (leinad)
9. 07:52 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing issues (Larry Winger)
10. 09:24 AM - Re: Re: Accident (David Downey)
11. 09:29 AM - Re: 701: Replace stab brackets? (NYTerminat@aol.com)
12. 09:29 AM - Re: Re: Accident Hysteria (Larry H)
13. 10:31 AM - Sun-N-Fun BBQ 08 (ZodieRocket)
14. 01:09 PM - Re: Re: It's official (Larry H)
15. 01:56 PM - Re: Re: Insurance Rates! (Larry H)
16. 04:57 PM - 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? (Andrew Hinsdale)
17. 05:45 PM - Re: Bending 40 thou (Jugle)
18. 06:24 PM - Re: Re: Corvair 5th bearing (Larry H)
19. 06:44 PM - Re: 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? (kmccune)
20. 07:11 PM - Re: 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? (KEVINBONDS@comcast.net)
21. 07:20 PM - Re: 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? (Ron Lendon)
22. 08:19 PM - Galv Firewall Question (MHerder)
23. 08:34 PM - Re: Galv Firewall Question (Paul Mulwitz)
24. 09:09 PM - CNC drilled pilot holes (sundaypilot)
25. 09:26 PM - Re: Galv Firewall Question (Bryan Martin)
26. 09:34 PM - Re: CNC drilled pilot holes (Tim Juhl)
27. 09:39 PM - Re: CNC drilled pilot holes (sundaypilot)
28. 10:05 PM - Re: CNC drilled pilot holes (Terry Phillips)
29. 11:05 PM - Re: Bending 40 thou (TxDave)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing issues |
Thanks everyone. Wouldn't want to build one of these flying machines without the
list!
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL/Corvair from scratch
Control surfaces and wings complete.
Bottom rear fuselage almost done
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=171668#171668
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Painting XL nose strut |
Hi Tim,
I went to my local "Professional" auto paint store and selected an
acrylic enamel top coat and compatible epoxy primer for my
plane. This is the same stuff the commercial airplane and auto paint
shops use for lower end paint jobs. I have been painting some of my
fuselage parts as I assemble them. Paint cost is around $100 per
gallon including catalysts.
The epoxy primer is a really wonderful material that can be used
without a top coat for parts that will not be readily visible like
the nose gear strut. It forms a very smooth and hard surface. I
have been using it on all the steel parts.
In the nose strut case, I adjusted the bearing inside diameter with a
Dremel tool and sanding drum after painting the strut. Without such
adjustment, the strut would not move through the lower bearing.
Good luck,
Paul
XL fuselage
At 06:26 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote:
>
>I'm going to want to hang my nose strut before too long and are
>looking for recommendations as to a paint / finish. I'll be
>painting the plane later with a catalyzed paint of some kind but I
>need to put something on the strut prior to installation.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Painting XL nose strut |
Looks good Scott. I was going to recommend stainless steel. Not sure how much more
that would weigh, if any. Just thinking of Cessnas, they're either chromed
or stainless.
cookwithgas wrote:
> Tim:
>
> I took my nose strut, rudder pedals and throttle levers to a chrome shop and
they came out super nice. The price was reasonable too. Here are a few pictures:
>
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/2_19_05_Nosewheel.jpg
>
> http://www.cooknwithgas.com/2_19_05_Pedals.jpg
>
> No more worries about scratching off the paint, etc.
>
> Scott Laughlin
> 601XL/Corvair
> Finished & Flying
> www.cooknwithgas.com
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=171684#171684
Message 4
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| Subject: | Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing issues |
Larry,
Does this help?
Jay in Dallas
"lwinger" <larrywinger@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>Help. The more I study the plans, the more confused I am. The rudder cable outlet
fairing has me stumped.
>
>On the 601XL, 6-B-4 shows an 8mm x 20mm cutout for the rudder cable, right above
the bottom longeron. Then if you look at the drawing for the fairing (6-B-4-2)
that would seem to put the cutout near the bottom of the cone-shaped exit
tube. Finally, the picture of the nylon fairlead itself shows the forward hole
almost centered under the cone. Which is it?
>
>Because I can't visualize the geometry of the rudder cable path yet, I'm concerned
to move the hole in the nylon fairlead down to match the specified cutout
location, out of concern for interference. Neither do I want to move it up so
it exits in the center of the cone without some word from a builder who has
installed the actual cables.
>
>Sorry for rambling, but I'm needing some words of direction or reassurance from
those who have gone before. By the way, these are not Zenith factory parts
since I'm scratch building.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
>
>--------
>Larry Winger
>Tustin, CA
>601XL/Corvair from scratch
>Control surfaces and wings complete.
>Bottom rear fuselage almost done
>www.mykitlog.com/lwinger
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=171629#171629
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | 701: Replace stab brackets? |
Hi Guys
Well I finally ordered my 912ULS. Wow that is a lot of money.
Apparently the slipper clutch is standard now. Since the slipper
clutch reduces the nasty shutdown wag that has crack the stab mounts
on 701s, should I still replace those 7H2-6 mounts with the .063? If
anyone has done this, how much hassle was it? Did you manage to get
them in with the same A5 holes? Or did you bolt them in with AN3s?
It gives me a headache just to think about it...
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: new ring mount old cowl |
I asked that question about a year ago of Zenith.
They said it would not easily work. Since I was going
to buy an engine mount anyway, I purchased the one to
fit the old cowl that came with my used engine.
Since the rad and oil cooler mostly hang from the
gearbox, I suppose it would be possible to tie the
bottom back into the holes that the old style bed
mount use on the sides of the bottom of the engine.
The other big advantage to the old mount is it is
significantly cheaper since it is entirely made by
Zenith. The new ring style mount is partly made by
Rotax. I don't need to say any more to explain the
high price.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder (mostly)
NW Ontario, Canada
Do not Archive
--- Tracy <pbuttles@charter.net> wrote:
> <pbuttles@charter.net>
>
> has anybody put hte new 912 ring mount on there 701
> with the old cowl?
> what did you do for radiator mount and oil cooler
> mount?
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Zodiac XL Cruise Speed with 80HP |
Can anyone tell me the difference in XL cruise speed between the 80hp
and the 100hp Rotax. The website does not show performance with that
engine. Also, how about with a 75hp VW conversion?
Jim
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bending 40 thou |
Glen,
The way I do it is the low tech way. I've got a long piece of hardwood with a
relief angle cut at the edge and radiused. I camp the metal between this board
and another clamping board on top to the edge of my work bench. I use lots
of C clamps. I then bend the piece over gradually with a rubber mallet. I made
the rear longerons on my 601XL this way, and I've made a set of shorter bending
blocks for my vice for short stuff. The vice method is even being used
for 1/4" material.
I've found I get a straighter bend if I bend the piece before I cut it off the
the sheet.
For thinner material I've made own wooden bending brake.
Dan
(plans building 601XL)
http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us
Jugle wrote:
> Hi Scratchbuilders,
>
> I've found a bit of info searching here but I'd like to know how some of you
solved it.
>
> I built Dave Clay's bending brake as per the plans at www.ch601.org and it has been working fine for thinner material, but today I experimented with some 0.040 flanges. They keep slipping under the top plate and the effort required has begun pulling the rivets on the piano hinge.
>
> Do I:
> 1. Farm those bits out to a sheetmetal shop?
> 2. Add more bolts between the existing ones to hold it firmer?
> 3. Bend the material while its wider then cut down later... this surely results
in a lot of waste?
>
> How did you do it?
>
> Incidentally, Dave's www.daves601xl.com hasn't been live for a while. Does anyone know if he's still building?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn.
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=171706#171706
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Outlet Fairing issues |
Sure does. Thanks.
Larry
Do Not Archive
On Sat, Mar 22, 2008 at 5:32 AM, <Jaybannist@cs.com> wrote:
> Larry,
>
> Does this help?
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
>
Message 10
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your english is fine - we need to be a little more accommodating of other speakers.
Sir, If you speak about my post regarding CriCri / Cricket history, please take
a look and search into CriCri yahooo group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CriCri/
or in the Google for more info.
I am not concerned here in any way. My neighbor is building a CriCri so I am interested
in this plane and its history. I am not producer of kitplanes, just
looking to design to build one so no vendetta etc. Only would like to provide
the view from other alternative side from thoose who didn't know that story. I
do not know where the true is but as I wrote: C.Heintz's letter looks be a PR
not serious analysis as a reztion for the ancidents.
Regarding my English resp. dialect you call it I'm sorry, this is not my native
language. I leave in Europa and my English is really not good. If I was no not
polite enough, please take that within this context...
[quote="dan(at)hillsgun.com"]After reading the thread referenced I don't see any
concrete evidence to
support wrongdoing on the part of Chris Heinz, only one individual making
unsupported accusations. The writing style and dialect seem very similar to
the poster making the accusations here. Are you that individual? If there is
proof then it is of interest. If it is just an individual with a personal
vendetta then please don't waste our time. Dan.
--[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=171428#171428
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 701: Replace stab brackets? |
Tony.
Yes you should upgrade to .063. I have the 912ULS with the slipper clutch
and it still shakes at shutdown. I just did mine after 140 hrs , no cracks on
old ones but I felt better safe than sorry, especially with all the 601's
falling out of the sky ;) JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No problem with duplicating the holes to the new piece for the A-5's.
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 3/22/2008 9:52:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
tbonsell@luxuria.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Tony Bonsell <tbonsell@luxuria.com>
Hi Guys
Well I finally ordered my 912ULS. Wow that is a lot of money.
Apparently the slipper clutch is standard now. Since the slipper
clutch reduces the nasty shutdown wag that has crack the stab mounts
on 701s, should I still replace those 7H2-6 mounts with the .063? If
anyone has done this, how much hassle was it? Did you manage to get
them in with the same A5 holes? Or did you bolt them in with AN3s?
It gives me a headache just to think about it...
**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Accident Hysteria |
Thanks for clarifying the list of accidents and incidents. My question is has
any of the Heinz Family responded to any of these with real answers to why they
happened??? I AM concerned as I'm sure most of the list is too.
Larry Hursh
CH601XL (N601LL Reserved)
William Dominguez <bill_dom@yahoo.com> wrote:
Every now and then I see posts from people who don't seem to be clear as to what
accidents/incidents are the ones causing concern. For the benefit of these
peoples, here are the incidents in question:
LAX06LA105 Oakdale, CA. Wing folded up. A witness stated that he saw the wings
"visibly vibrate" and then "left wing collapsed and folded rearward against the
fuselage"
DFW07LA102 Canadian, TX. This is the guy that flew into IMC and his plane broke
up in flight. No witnesses.
LAX07FA026 Yuba City, CA. A factory build AMD that broke up in flight. One witness
sated that he heard an explosion and "observed the center section of the airplane
falling straight down"
Then you have the Australian and Spanish incidents.
In the Australian incident, a bird strike is suspected.
In the Spanish incident, a wing folding up in flight is suspected.
Another 2 incidents that have fueled concerns are the 2 cases of wing flutter,
one by a member of this list when he overflew a power plant and a the other one
that affected an AMD Zodiac in South Florida.
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami Florida
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom
---------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun BBQ 08 |
Sun-N-Fun BBQ 08
Time is drawing near, please sign up now! I need to print the name tags
this week and order the food for the event.
Thursday April 10th 2008
5pm - 8pm in the Campground
Jim Hoak's Campsite, same spot as last year.
Jabiru USA <http://www.usjabiru.com/> , Flightcrafters
<http://www.zenithdistributing.com/> , AirFox , Sensornetics
<http://www.sensornetics.com/> and William <http://www.flycorvair.com/>
Wynne have all offered sponsorship for this years event. Cummins
<http://www.cumminsspinners.com/> Spinners and Homebuilthelp.com
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/> have donated prizes for this years
draw. Zenith Aircraft and Can-Zac Aviation have also donated for a
special gift to the first 90 builders that arrive at the Sun-N-Fun BBQ
pre-registered for the event. Don't miss out on this special gift
pre-register NOW.
Welcome to the 2008 BBQ sign up, Please take a moment to visit
http://www.ch601.org <http://www.ch601.org/> or http://www.ch701.com
<http://www.ch701.com/> for the sign up sheet. This will be for your
name tag and will be your ticket for the cooks to provide you with a
great dinner. Plus this event is getting very large and I need an idea
on how much food to buy so that we feed everyone and don't run out! Lets
make it bigger this year, I have more give a ways, the first 90 people
with a pre-registered name badge will receive a gift. Limit one per
family please.
Thanks cdngoose
Sun-N-Fun BBQ 07 Bill Bodin won the Raffle for the Made to order Cummins
Spinner. This prize is custom made just for you! You tell us what prop
and engine you will be using and the Spinner will be made to order and
arrive at your door!
Don't Miss Sun-N-Fun 2008 BBQ
Thursday April 10th 2008
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: It's official |
Sounds like some really good advise there KA. I'll keep that in mind as I plan
out our route. If I'm good enough, I really won't need the chains cause I plan
on going straight over the Rockies and not have to go through any passes to
get to California. I MIGHT need a few bottles of oxygen......not only for us
to use, but also the engine! LOL.....Sure glad I will have those wing lockers,
huh? I might strap on a 75 pound propane bottle under the belly of the plane
so I can run a small house furnace inside. I could use the furnace for carb
heat and to keep my windshield clear of any frost that might form. I'd hate
to get cold up that high too....yah know what I mean??
LH
Keith Ashcraft <keith.ashcraft@itt.com> wrote:
Also, a case of Diet Coke weighs less than a case of Coke (less calories) and
if you fly high enough, you don't need ice!!! Only need chains over high mountain
passes in the Winter. (not really needed in the Summer) so plan your trips
accordingly.
Do Not Archive
KA
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry H
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 12:54 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: It's official
Well I plan on putting my 4 ton hydraulic jack, tie downs, tie down stakes, extra
quarts of oil, a set of chains if I need them, a couple of bungee cords,
extra grease (in case my wheels stop going around and around), a couple of cases
of Diet Coke, some ice for our "in-flight" lunch to keep the pop cold and lunch
meat cold, probably a couple of bags of groceries, our luggage (I'd hate
to overload the baggage area behind the seat yah know) and our pillows. That
should about round out everything we'll need for our over night trips. I just
wished I would have put on the extra fuel tanks so I can fly further without
having to stop and refueling too.......
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Rates! |
Hey Andy,
Too bad you don't live near me. I live on a 2650' grass strip and we allow almost
anyone to keep their plane or parasail here for free. Of course, none of
the land owners are going to be responsible for your aircraft if something should
happen to it. We all watch out for each other here and its a great neighborhood
I live in.
I've always had this dream of living on a private airstrip and have my own hanger
and my plane right out of my backyard. We built the home 3 years ago now
and I AM building the Zodiac 601. I just got a start on it and I'm waiting on
Zenith to ship my wing kit next. I didn't realize there was such a long lead
time though. Poor planning on my part I guess. I ordered it on December 4th.
Its supposed to ship the first week in May. The fuselage kit has a 14-16 week
lead time too. Bummer.........
Being as old as I am (58) hopefully, I should be able to get a good rate on the
insurance when that time comes.
Larry H
ashontz <ashontz@nbme.org> wrote:
I didn't think it would be much. Who's the insurer?
I figure I'll just be getting liability, maybe $5,000 or $10,000 in hull insurance
to cover materials in case someone plows into it why it's on the ground. Figure
I'd do all the repairs myself if something happened.
$400/yr is about what I pay for my old '85 Nissan pickup truck for liability only,
about $35/month. That's reasonable. Get an outdoor tie-down at a grass strip
somewhere nearby and I'd be looking at $85/month to have it just sit there.
That's about what most people would pay for one hour of rental time. Use it maybe
200hrs/year (16hrs/month or 4 hours each saturday) at $16/hr in fuel, that's
like $3,600/yr for the joy of flight with insurance and tie down. I'll take
it. People pay that much a season to keep a boat docked they can't afford to
put gas in.
---------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? |
Hello Listers
I have been reading the traffic on the 5th bearing for
the Corvair. I posted this question on CORVAIRCRAFT a
while back and did not get an answer. Simply put..
why would I want a 5th bearing? My impression is that
it applies mostly to extended crankshafts as used in
some KRs, not really to the 601XL installation.
Thanks
Andy Hinsdale
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bending 40 thou |
Hi Debo, thanks for the reply.
sky_ranger161 wrote:
>
> 3.) Definitely make the flange wider than you're bending - especially on the
thicker stuff. On big parts or the thick stuff I made my flange 100mm bigger
a time or two and trimmed it down - again like you're thinking.
>
Well yesterday I went ahead and added an extra bolt between the existing ones,
so there are now 13 bolts over the ten feet of my brake, about 250mm apart.
Then I did a test bend using a piece about 100mm wide, 19 mm flange. Turned out
pretty good, but when I trimmed the wide edge back to 19mm to get the doubler
to size, I still finished with a slight bow... about 2 to 3mm over the 900mm
length. It pushes straight quite easily, but is it acceptable to let the riveting
to the spar flange straighten it out?
sky_ranger161 wrote:
>
>
> 1.) I took Dave's original design and beefed it up a little and have been able
to bend everything I've wanted to. By beefing up, I mean I made the rivet
pitch less in the hinge and put more clamping bolts on it - closer together like
you're thinking. I think I remember using stainless steel rivets on mine too.
You did that, right?
I should have been more specific, the rivets aren't actually pulling, the aluminium
hinge is bending away from the angle iron. I've ordered a length of steel
piano hing to replace it, but if I had left more meat on the material in the
first place as you've described, I wouldn't have had the problem.
BTW, I should mention my bench and brake are dead straight, so that isn't causing
the bowing.
Glenn
--------
Glenn Andressen
601XL- just started.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=171815#171815
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair 5th bearing |
I have read a couple of Ron L's posts and from what I can tell, Roy S. might have
an engine or two at Fun N Sun on display this year. I hope you will be able
to get down there to meet him and see his work. If you are really interested,
I suggest you contact Ron Lendon himself directly. He's a great guy and will
try to help you if he can. He's helped me with several questions I've asked
him. I'm sure he wouldn't mind helping you too.
Regards,
Larry H
ashontz <ashontz@nbme.org> wrote:
Thanks for the info. I think it's a good idea. All of this talk of nitriding the
crank really means that the prop needs it's own real support. The Corvair is
a great engine, but it wasn't designed as an aircraft engine, even though it's
90% there. Something like a fifth bearing is mandatory in my mind. Then it really
is an aircraft engine. I'd still nitride the crank, but with a 5th bearing,
it probably wouldn't need it. From what I've read, the nitriding is really
only adding a 15/1000th hard skin so to speak over a still more flexible shaft.
Yeah, it'll make it stronger, but it's still a crust over a softer center.
The 5th bearing makes more sense.
You wouldn't just hook a car engine up to a wheel, the wheel is supported by it's
own housing. Same with this deal.
[quote="skyridersbn"]In a conversation with Ron Lendon, he told me he is going
with Roy Szarafinski's 5th bearing design. Roy's 5th bearing is still in the prototype
stage but I'm sure he will need a few good pilots to test his theory
for him. From what I can tell (which isn't much) his 5th bearing looks beefy and
very impressive. Here is his website:
http://roysgarage.com/Roys_Garage/Welcome.html (http://roysgarage.com/Roys_Garage/Welcome.html)
Hope this help you in your quest to find the "right one".
Larry H
ashontz wrote:
Has anyone already made a 5th bearing for their Corvair conversion similar to what
WW is developing. I was thinking about this a few Be a better friend, newshound,
and
> [b]
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
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---------------------------------
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| Subject: | Re: 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? |
The idea is to shorten the distance to the 1st bearing, to transfer more prop load
to the case. This may be simplistic, but then there seems to be opinions on
this topic, so thats how I'll leave it. There have been some crank failures
in the last year of so. I'm not the one to ask about its effectiveness, as I am
so not qualified to discuss it.
--------
Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.
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| Subject: | Re: 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? |
Andy
This subject is in a state of evolution. We've had to adjust our thinking, on things,
as some failures have occurred. There are a lot of improvements being suggested
and worked on right now to make the Corvaircraft engine more bulletproof.
I think the engine needs this. I would like a to feel a little more certain,
that I have done all I can, to make my powerplant safe--before I install it
on my plane and go flying. I have been contemplating different engines in case
the Corvair becomes too complicated and heavy.
I'm excited about many of the prospects (brand new cranks; 5th bearing, etc.).
I'm excited to see where this may lead. I'm hoping that once the 5th bearing design
is decided on; and the new cranks are tested; we can safely get rid of the
harmonic balancer. This will help offset the added weight of the 5th bearing.
My thinking is that the balancer was designed by GM to address a resonance
issue in the car. We' ve changed so much that GM's research can't mean much. The
new cranks will even be of a different alloy--which will certainly have different
resonant characteristics.
Kevin Bonds
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Andrew Hinsdale <ahinsdale@yahoo.com>
>
> Hello Listers
>
> I have been reading the traffic on the 5th bearing for
> the Corvair. I posted this question on CORVAIRCRAFT a
> while back and did not get an answer. Simply put..
> why would I want a 5th bearing? My impression is that
> it applies mostly to extended crankshafts as used in
> some KRs, not really to the 601XL installation.
>
> Thanks
>
> Andy Hinsdale
>
>
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: 5th Bearing - What is the Purpose? |
The corvair engine really wasn't designed for spinning a propeller. Having the
5th bearing will take some of the precession loads out of the crank and transfer
them to the engine case.
If you fly the engine gently you will probably never have any problems with crank breakage. I am having the www.roysgarage.com made for my plane just for more peace of mind.
Today I dropped the case and crank off to Roy and showed him a full size blue print
of the 1958 machining drawings of the engine. He did take some notes.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
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| Subject: | Galv Firewall Question |
I am using Cortec as a primer for the rest of the airframe, but what would be appropriate
to use at the galv firewall and stiffener interface?
I am concerned about the dissimilar metals in contact, but I am probably just over
thinking this as I have a tendency to do. Galvanizing uses zinc as a protection
for corrosion on steel. Does Zinc and aluminum do anything funny over
a long duration in contact?
Paralysis by analysis....
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
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| Subject: | Re: Galv Firewall Question |
I think you will find galvanized steel is immune to just about
everything. This includes all forms of paint (possibly with
exceptions) along with welding. For the most part, I think you can
ignore corrosion issues with this stuff.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 08:15 PM 3/22/2008, you wrote:
>I am using Cortec as a primer for the rest of the airframe, but what
>would be appropriate to use at the galv firewall and stiffener interface?
>
>I am concerned about the dissimilar metals in contact, but I am
>probably just over thinking this as I have a tendency to
>do. Galvanizing uses zinc as a protection for corrosion on
>steel. Does Zinc and aluminum do anything funny over a long
>duration in contact?
>
>Paralysis by analysis....
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| Subject: | CNC drilled pilot holes |
Hi all! I am new to this list so this may be a dumb question that has already been
answered many times:
I saw a comment on the ZODIAC web site (under pricing) that says:
NEW FOR 2007: The standard kit now includes many precision CNC pre-cut and pre-drilled
skins and components.
I am wondering if anybody has an idea or feeling as to how much time this will
save? Do CNC pre-drilled holes still have to be deburred?
Any comment welcome.
I will start my project with a rudder -workshop in Cloverdale/CA in May.
Thanks,
Sundaypilot
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| Subject: | Re: Galv Firewall Question |
Zinc and aluminum play well together, they don't react very strongly.
Using Cortec between them wouldn't hurt. Aluminum and stainless are
more of a problem.
On Mar 22, 2008, at 11:15 PM, MHerder wrote:
> >
>
> I am using Cortec as a primer for the rest of the airframe, but what
> would be appropriate to use at the galv firewall and stiffener
> interface?
>
> I am concerned about the dissimilar metals in contact, but I am
> probably just over thinking this as I have a tendency to do.
> Galvanizing uses zinc as a protection for corrosion on steel. Does
> Zinc and aluminum do anything funny over a long duration in contact?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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| Subject: | Re: CNC drilled pilot holes |
What you'll get are pre-cut skins with the pilot holes and inspection holes, etc.
already done. I guess now they even trim the wingtips and wing roots which
can be a lengthy process (especially the tips.)
The more they do the more time you will save and the less likely you are to put
a hole in the wrong place. That said, we have many fine builders on this list
that are building from scratch with great results. You have to decide how much
time you are willing to devote to the project.
I bought the standard kit (not the quick build) and appreciate having the pilot
holes and etc. I know it saved me time and to me it was worth the extra cost
over just buying the raw materials.
Pilot holes are sized for a #40 drill. What they do is help you line up your skins
with the underlying support members which you will then drill into and cleco.
You will then have to drill the holes out to size (#30 or #21), disassemble,
deburr, prime, reassemble and rivet. No doubt there will be some trimming
with snips and files.
Don't let anybody kid you... there is a lot of work to putting one of these together.
That said, I think Zenith offers kits that are the equal of or superior
of what is available.
Tim
do not archive
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
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| Subject: | Re: CNC drilled pilot holes |
Thanks Tim!
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| Subject: | Re: CNC drilled pilot holes |
1st of all, the CNC predrilled holes are pilot holes as you said in your
subject. I.e., they are 3/32" holes. they must be drilled out to #30 for A4
rivets or #20 for A5 rivets, and the finished holes must be deburred before
riveting.
Regarding the time saving, I've made just a few pieces from scratch, but
enough to appreciate how much time it saves me to have a kit made of
precut, pre-pilot drilled parts. Admittedly, I am a slow builder, even with
the Zenith parts. But, when I look at the effort that would have been
required for a kit without the predrilled holes it looks overwhelming. For
me, I'd guess that the predrilled pilot holes save me ~10-15% of the time
to assemble. A significant part of that time is saved because it is a lot
easier for me to drill a hole in the correct spot when I'm guided by a
pilot hole rather than an X on the metal. A more skilled workman would
probably be a lot faster with undrilled parts.
Terry
At 09:05 PM 3/22/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all! I am new to this list so this may be a dumb question that has
>already been answered many times:
>
>I saw a comment on the ZODIAC web site (under pricing) that says:
>
>NEW FOR 2007: The standard kit now includes many precision CNC pre-cut and
>pre-drilled skins and components.
>
>I am wondering if anybody has an idea or feeling as to how much time this
>will save? Do CNC pre-drilled holes still have to be deburred?
>
>Any comment welcome.
>
>I will start my project with a rudder -workshop in Cloverdale/CA in May.
>
>Thanks,
>
> Sundaypilot
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
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| Subject: | Re: Bending 40 thou |
In order to make nice straight bends in thicker stock such as .040 you must have
a good quality hinge. I used the stainless ones from Air Parts, Inc.
For your longerons you should make both flanges about 100mm then trim after bending.
This is a minimal waste of material and is certainly cheaper than farming
out the work.
I have bent every control surface skin, and every piece of channel (including rear
spars) using a little creative thinking. For larger pieces, like control surface
skins, I always do a test bend with a 2" wide strip of aluminum.
My current version of the brake is 10 feet long. I have 6 bolts. I can bend pretty
much anything I need to bend with it.
Yes, I'm still here. I'm building a Sonex (long story). I'm also still a big fan
of the 601XL.
Dave Clay
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