Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Building Engine Mount (John Smith)
2. 02:13 AM - Re: couple of questions (John Bolding)
3. 02:15 AM - BBQ (Roy Szarafinski)
4. 03:37 AM - Re: Dumb Rivet Question (David Downey)
5. 04:26 AM - Re: Fuel tanks (ashontz)
6. 04:30 AM - Re: Building Engine Mount (ashontz)
7. 04:37 AM - Re: High wind limits for the 601 series? (ashontz)
8. 04:38 AM - Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... (ashontz)
9. 04:48 AM - Re: Selling my ch640 kit (ashontz)
10. 04:50 AM - Re: brs install (Mark Colbeck)
11. 05:31 AM - Re: Selling my ch640 kit (robertstdenis)
12. 06:12 AM - Re: Zodiac XL Cruise Speed with 80HP (James E. Lanier)
13. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: Corvair 701 STOLvair @ SNF (John Warren)
14. 07:20 AM - Remaining parts (Gary Boothe)
15. 07:35 AM - Re: Building Engine Mount (LarryMcFarland)
16. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: Building Engine Mount (LarryMcFarland)
17. 08:25 AM - CZAW aircraft company is going bankrupt. Can Chip Erwin get (Bob_anderson)
18. 09:07 AM - Re: Building Engine Mount (ashontz)
19. 09:16 AM - Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... (Bryan Martin)
20. 09:36 AM - Re: High wind limits for the 601 series? (Grant Corriveau)
21. 09:36 AM - Re: High wind limits for the 601 series? (Tim Juhl)
22. 10:23 AM - Re: couple of questions (Craig Payne)
23. 10:25 AM - Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... (Larry Hursh)
24. 10:55 AM - Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... (rsteele@rjsit.com)
25. 11:22 AM - 601XL with Wheel Pants (AZFlyer)
26. 12:42 PM - Re: couple of questions (mwtucker)
27. 12:42 PM - Re: 601XL with Wheel Pants (LarryMcFarland)
28. 12:42 PM - Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... (MHerder)
29. 01:33 PM - Dynon D100 rpm (Dave Johnson)
30. 02:07 PM - Re: Dynon D100 rpm (lane_jones)
31. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: Building Engine Mount (John Bolding)
32. 03:16 PM - 601 Maintenance in Salty Air (Frank Derfler)
33. 03:16 PM - 601 Maintenance in Salty Air (Frank Derfler)
34. 04:03 PM - Rudder skins (steve)
35. 04:11 PM - Interior painting (lwinger)
36. 04:22 PM - Re: Re: Building Engine Mount (LarryMcFarland)
37. 04:36 PM - Re: Re: Canopy issues and VGs (Terry Phillips)
38. 04:49 PM - Re: Building Engine Mount (ashontz)
39. 06:51 PM - Re: Rudder skins (Bryan Martin)
40. 07:23 PM - CH701 Door Warning (JG)
41. 07:54 PM - Re: 601 Maintenance in Salty Air (Ron Lendon)
42. 08:12 PM - Re: Re: Building Engine Mount (John Smith)
43. 08:25 PM - Re: Building Engine Mount (John Smith)
44. 09:10 PM - buble door latch (Tracy)
45. 09:12 PM - Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... (Andrewlieser)
46. 09:30 PM - Re: CH701 Door Warning (n801bh@netzero.com)
47. 10:04 PM - Re: buble door latch (Graeme)
48. 10:17 PM - Re: buble door latch (sonar1@cox.net)
49. 11:08 PM - Official Zenith-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
50. 11:09 PM - Official Zenith-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Building Engine Mount |
I am building the engine mount for Corvair/601XL according William Wynne manual
which calls for 1/2" round tube for firewall spools and 3/4" round diagonal tubes.
Do I need to "squeeze" the ends of 3/4" diagonal tubes to 1/2" to properly
mate with the firewall spools or do I leave the 3/4" as-is and somehow "fills"
the gaps, due to different tube sizes, when welding?
---------------------------------
OMG, Sweet deal for Yahoo! users/friends: Get A Month of Blockbuster Total Access,
No Cost. W00t
---------------------------------
OMG, Sweet deal for Yahoo! users/friends: Get A Month of Blockbuster Total Access,
No Cost. W00t
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: couple of questions |
O.K. just asking, just found it a little curious. I guess my thought
is if the gear is strong enough to do the job with holes punched in it ,
it could be lighter and do the same job with no holes, but then again,
I play left field without a glove on a pretty regular basis. LO&SLO
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 10:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: couple of questions
> O.K. to drill holes in the main part of the gear leg? Cessna uses
clips. John
Well the pictures I posted were of a plane being built at Michael
Heintz's Quality Sport Planes. I know of two others built there with the
same approach. My belief is that the gear is the most robust (over
designed?) part of an XL.
-- Craig
Message 3
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Thanks Goose, you can bet I'll be there.
Roy 701 ect.
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dumb Rivet Question |
if they do remain the best way to remove them is with a 30,000 rpm 90 angle grinder
and a 180-220 grit silicon carbide sanding disk. This allows you to gently
remove the point (just kiss it lightly) without hitting the rivet head or starting
to loosen the pintail from the vibrations generated when you file across
a fine point.
I have not had that effect on more than a couple of Avex rivets.
All the parts are done and I'm just about ready to rivet the whole rudder together.
In practicing with a couple of rivets on some scrap I noticed that in several
cases, once the rivet is pulled, a tiny but sharp piece of steel from the
center protrudes a bit. Is this normal? Am I pulling it too slowly or something?
I hate to think of hundreds of those sticking out all over the finished
product. I also hate to think of filing them off...
Thanks,
Burke Johnson
CH701
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174021#174021
Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair
---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total
Access, No Cost.
Message 5
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I was debating which way to go on that, bead first or after that fact, or not bead
at all. Seems to be good reasons for beading so I'll do that. Right now I
have a practice tank half constructed. I'll probably finish this one, see what
I can learn from it, then make the two real one's after that.
Ron Lendon wrote:
> I found putting the beads in before welding to be much easier. Also found it
best to tack weld the entire seam around the whole tank, ends and length before
welding the tank closed. YMMV
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174089#174089
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
I'm still waiting for my conversion manual from WW. What welding method does he
recommend? I was thinking of trying to make my own engine mount as well using
my oxy-acetylene torch I bought for aluminum welding. Any recommendations for
good info on how to weld steel with an oxy-torch?
[quote="zenithlist(at)yahoo.com"]I am building an engine mount for Corvair/601XL
per William Wayne manual which calls for 1/2" firewall spool tubes and diagonal
tubes of 3/4". When mating the diagonal tubes to firewall spool tubes, do
I "squeeze" the ends of 3/4" diagonal tubes down to 1/2" prior to welding or
do I leave the 3/4" diagonal tubes as-is and somehow "fill" in the gap due to
different sizes?
">one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
> [b]
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174090#174090
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: High wind limits for the 601 series? |
That's gotta be quit an experience. Seems like much over a 15kt crosswind, particulary
gusty, in a 152 started to get a little hairy and uncomfortable. Nice
to know these things handle better than that. Just from memory and quick calculations,
it appears as though a 152 at gross and a 601XL at gross would have
about the same wing loading, so the overall bulk feel of the two should be about
the same, but I'm sure that big rudder makes a difference.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174092#174092
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... |
Does it still need to be trimmed? If so maybe that wrinkled stuff will get snipped
off anyway.
do not archive
Andrewlieser wrote:
> Hey all just wanted an opinion. When I opened my rudder kit and checked the
integrity of everything I found only one concern. At first I dismissed it but
as I sit here waiting for my new Doubler angle I have not yet become comfortable
with it. My rudder skins came kind of wrinkled at the bottom front corner
and I just wanted some opinions as to whether the integrity of the part will
be compromised or if its merely aesthetic. If it is only aesthetic will the wrinkling
be removed when the skin is riveted the spar pulling it taught. If you
all think that this could be a problem I will send the photos to Zenith and
see if they will replace it. Please take a look and let me know! Thanks again
to everyone! Here is the link to the picture on my page just double click
the image for a better view.
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/andrewlieser/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=25804
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174093#174093
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Selling my ch640 kit |
Sorry to hear you're giving up the building. I hate to see people give up their
dreams. Any way you can just build from plans and work at a more leisurely pace
and save money at the same time?
robertstdenis wrote:
> Been thinking long and hard about this given the impending twins, and now that
they are here and I have had to leave one of my jobs to make time to be home
and all that at this point it serves us better here for me to sell my kit (completed
rudder, 30% disassembled stab, plans) lest they get damaged in storage.
Will even throw in four cans of zinc chromate spray paint if ya like.
>
> I'm looking for $1300 for the lot, u haul it kinda deal (mini van is enough).
I'm in the Sudbury Ontario area (4hrs to Toronto, 5 to Ottawa, ~3hrs to the
Soo).
>
> Contact me here or via phone 705-479-1031 or email rob@iahu.ca.
>
> No worries guys, I will return.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174095#174095
Message 10
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I too am considering the BRS chute and would love to see your details on your install.
What made you decide to go with the soft pack vs hard pack?
mark(at)masterpieceliving.ca
--------
CH701
70% Complete
www.mykitlog.com/mcolbeck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174096#174096
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Selling my ch640 kit |
Well the lack of the 2nd job is part of it, but, as with just trying to get it
built I was really lacking the time right now and it has sit dormant since November.
I mean heck, I didn't even have time to get my ppl completed and my written
exam lapsed. Will give it a few years and see what happens when things
are a bit more stable and I'm not working all the damned time.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174102#174102
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Zodiac XL Cruise Speed with 80HP |
I chose to work the numbers to get an approximation of the cruise
performance of 100hp vs 80hp engines.
The Cd x A product was chosen to equal the Zenith website results for
100hp. If 100hp yields 134mph, then
80hp would achieve 124.35mph. This will at least get you in the
ballpark. There are so many variables, that it is difficult to
get exact figures.
The Cd x A product would be greater at reduced velocity due to increased
angle of attack. The wing lift is greater at reduced velocity
due to the lift vector angle deviating more aft of the normal force. The
thrust vector angle also deviates slightly.
The weight of the 80hp engine would be (you would think) lower though.
Jim
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair 701 STOLvair @ SNF |
YES!! Jon Croke, of HomebuiltHELP fame, and I will post some more flying
vids soon.
-Gus
rbjjr wrote:
>
> Gus,
>
> For those not able to attend, can you post some more video on your site?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Burke Johnson
> CH701
>
>
Message 14
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List,
Some of you may recall that I made a decision to abandon and sell my 601HDS
project, in favor of a Pietenpol (which is moving along very nicely, thank
you very much). Zill Coleman in Oklahoma has a 601 that kicked the crap out
of a tornado, but suffered some damage in the process. He has purchased the
wings. I still have available the completed rudder and horizontal
stabilizer, plus the partially completed center section (set up for a
taildragger).
Anyone who wishes to discuss these items can contact me off list,
gboothe5@comcast.net, as I will be signing off of the Zenith list today.
Many thanks to all of you with good constructive ideas and lively
entertainment. Happy skies to all and I hope no one experiences a jettisoned
canopy, departing wings, reversal of gravity, ill effects of green
scotchbright, or any number of horrible events that await the adventurer in
all of us.
Thank you,
Gary A. Boothe
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
John,
It's better to squeeze the tube edges to maximize the strength of the
weld. Always try to minimize gaps as they do interfere with joint
integrity.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
John Smith wrote:
> I am building the engine mount for Corvair/601XL according William
> Wynne manual which calls for 1/2" round tube for firewall spools and
> 3/4" round diagonal tubes. Do I need to "squeeze" the ends of 3/4"
> diagonal tubes to 1/2" to properly mate with the firewall spools or do
> I leave the 3/4" as-is and somehow "fills" the gaps, due to different
> tube sizes, when welding?
> *
> *
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
Hi Andy,
The optimum process would be TIG. Oxyacetylene is a close second as you
have good control of the heat involved. Should be easier by far to do
the mount with the
gas process. I used to gas weld aluminum tanks, but couldn't get
comfortable flying a gas welded tank. You'll learn more by reading a
little and practicing with sample
tube pieces first. I always make weld joint samples before the fact to
"tune up" the process in my head. Close those gaps before welding.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
ashontz wrote:
>
> I'm still waiting for my conversion manual from WW. What welding method does
he recommend? I was thinking of trying to make my own engine mount as well using
my oxy-acetylene torch I bought for aluminum welding. Any recommendations for
good info on how to weld steel with an oxy-torch?
>
> --------
> Andy Shontz
> CH601XL - Corvair
> www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | CZAW aircraft company is going bankrupt. Can Chip Erwin get |
People need to know the facts. You may remember that Chip Erwin started a company
in the Czech Republic years ago called "Nextair". Chip got funding from banks,
who lost everything as the company went bankrupt. When Nextair did go bankrupt,
he left the company and purchased the assets at less than 10 cents on the
dollar. It seems that now he is doing it again. Slavia Capital is the main shareholder
of CZAW.
But don't take it from me. Here is the contact info for Slavia Capital.
Frank Nosek
Investment Banking / Director
SLAVIA CAPITAL Praha
Rytirska 13
110 00 Praha 1
Tel.: +420 221 181 062
Fax: +420 221 181 068
Mob.: +420 605 228 570
fnosek@slaviacapital.com
www.slaviacapital.com
Ownership of Czech Aircraft Works.
49,45 % of the CZAW owns SLAVIA CAPITAL AERO (SC AERO) LIMITED
Road Town, Tortola, P.O.Box 3161, R.G.Hodge Plaza Virgin Islands
45,15 % owns AIRCRAFT ENTERPRISES LTD., 23,275
Belize City, Albert Street 99
Belize
Note that this is the above company that Chip Erwin owns. He is already hiding
his assets in Belize.
5,40% owns Trihold Limited, 64498
1066 Nicosia, Margarita House, Themistokli Dervi Str. 15
Kyper
Here is an official press release from CZAW.
Hello.
Ive included below the full text of the release written today by Sport Aircraft
Works, regarding the March 27 filing by part-owner Slavia Capital. As is always
the case, there is a story behind the story, and SAW is explaining its view
of the circumstances.
It is good for us to note that shipments have escalated and continue, setting records
for both February and March 2008, and that US deposits are held in the
US; customer exposure seems to be minimized by prudent work by CZAW and the US
Distributor, Sport Aircraft Works.
Danny Defelici (President, SAW) also assures me that he has made no changes in
his plans to attend Sun n Fun.
This kind of filing is never good news; but in this case it doesnt look too bad,
either. Do your homework (Czech laws differ from those of many other countries)
before putting forward some of the wilder comments theyve already heard.
This distribution has been delayed deliberately, to allow the company to make contact
with customers, first.
Tim Kern
Tim Kern INK / 121five.com
PO Box 30
Anderson, IN 46015-0030
USA
863-651-6095
Below is the verbatim press release.
We feel that its important for you to know the facts about the current situation
at Czech Aircraft Works.
Here is a brief history from our point of view.
IN 2006 CZECH AIRCRAFT WORKS (CZAW) TOOK ON AN INVESTMENT PARTNER FOR 49% OF THE
OUTSTANDING STOCK FOR THEIR PRODUCTION EXPANSION AND PURCHASE OF NEW FACILITY.
THIS INVESTMENT CAME FROM SLAVIA CAPITAL (SC), SLOVAKIA BASED INVESTMENT FIRM.
AFTER INITIAL HONEYMOON SC DECIDED THAT CHIP ERWINS (CZAW CEO) MANAGEMENT WAS
NOT TO THEIR LIKING AND THEY PROMPTLY TOOK OVER CONTROL OF THE FACTORY. THE PERSONNEL
THAT THEY PUT IN PLACE HAD NO AVIATION BACKGROUND AND BASICALLY STRIPPED
THE COMPANY OF VALUED WORKERS BY FIRING THE BEST ONES. (I believe that the
investors have a very different opinion on this)
NOW ITS CLEAR THAT DURING 2007 THE MANAGEMENT TOOK EVERY OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE THE
WRONG DECISIONS AND RUN THE COMPANY FINANCIALLY INTO THE GROUND. TOWARDS THE
END OF 2007 SC DECIDED THE COMPANY NEEDED ADDITIONAL FUNDS AND OFFERED GREATER
DILUTION AT UNFAVORABLE TERMS TO THE EXISTING SHAREHOLDERS. CHIP ERWIN (PARTIAL
OWNER) TOGETHER WITH THE REST OF THE SHAREHOLDERS REFUSED THIS OFFER AND
CHIP TOOK CONTROL OVER THE FACTORY AGAIN. (Hard to believe that an investor would
want to devalue his investment. I think that an investor would want to make
the company more valuable so that the value of the investment would go up).
Hard to believe that management would want to run the company into the ground
as that is not a good way to protect your job and investment).
AT THE SAME TIME SC STARTED A CAMPAIGN TO DISCOURAGE CZAW VENDORS FROM SELLING
EQUIPMENT TO THEM AND SPREADING RUMORS OF IMMINENT BANKRUPTCY. ALTHOUGH THIS
CAMPAIGN WAS DETRIMENTAL TO THE COMPANY, CHIP ERWIN WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE GROWING
THE COMPANY OUT OF THE MESS THAT WAS CREATED. (Again, hard to believe that
investors and management would want to hurt the company. Seems that Chip Erwin
did not get along with anyone).
IN THE BEGINNING OF 2008 FOR THE FIRST 3 MONTHS CHIP ERWIN PROVED THE COMPANY
WAS VIABLE BY RUNNING THE COMPANY ON CASH FLOW WHILE PAYING SUBSTANTIAL LIABILITIES
DOWN AT THE SAME TIME. THIS DEMONSTRATES THAT THE COMPANY IS VIABLE GOING
FORWARD AND IS NOT INSOLVENT OR NEEDS BANKRUPTCY PROTECTION. (Not paying debt
and vendor obligations is not a way to run a company. CZAW owes a lot of money
to vendors and investors. )
SC, THROUGH THEIR COLLABORATION WITH AN [AFFILIATED?] COLLECTION AGENCY, PETITIONED
THE CZECH COURTS FOR BANKRUPTCY AND/OR RESTRUCTURING ON MARCH 27, 2008.
IN OUR VIEW THIS WAS ANOTHER DIRTY TACTIC TO MAKE THE SHAREHOLDERS CAPITULATE
IN GIVING UP FULL CONTROL OF A VIABLE COMPANY TO MINORITY SHAREHOLDER (SC).
(Chip management style does not work well with others. I just does not make sense
for a major investor to want to bankrupt a company. SC. It is Chip that wants
to get rid of SC so that he can have it all to himself. He did this very well
with Nextair years ago. Chip is hoping to purchase the assets of CZAW for
almost nothing after it goes bankrupt. He will than have everything to himself
which will include the aircraft designs, inventory and factory. Not a bad deal!!)
How does this affect us?
ITS CHIPS UNDERSTANDING THAT IT TAKES 14 DAYS FOR THE BANK TO COMMENT ON THE RESTRUCTURING
PETITION, AT WHICH TIME THE COURTS WILL DECIDE WHICH WAY TO GO. ITS
PROVEN FROM OUR FIRST THREE MONTHS OF 2008 THAT WE ARE VIABLE AND WE WILL PETITION
THE COURT (IF IT GOES THIS FAR) TO CONTINUE OPERATING AS USUAL UNDER THE
COURTS PROTECTION. THIS ACTUALLY WOULD BE GOOD FOR CZAW AS IT PROTECTS THEM
FROM THEIR OWN INVESTMENT PARTNER. (I would say that Chip knows better than
anyone on how the bankrupt laws work in the Czech Rep.)
DELIVERIES SHOULD CONTINUE AS PLANNED. EVEN UNDER RESTRUCTURING THE COMPANY CONTINUES
TO RUN AND MANUFACTURE. WE HAVE HAD TWO STRONG MONTHS (FEBRUARY AND MARCH
08) OF AIRCRAFT DELIVERIES WITH A TOTAL OF 16 AIRPLANES DELIVERED (CZAW SHIPPED
20 TOTAL IN MARCH).
And just to reassure all our customers, we keep all of the deposits on this side
of Atlantic. (how do we know that this is true???
To sum this up Chip Erwin has been using all of his resources (what resources?
He has no money!) and energy to resolve the problems with Slavia Capital and continue
to deliver one of the best LSA aircraft on the market.
Thank you for your continuing support.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174137#174137
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
Thanks Larry. What kind of filler is used when welding steel like for an engine
mount. Currently I'm only familiar with MIG and stick arc welding steel as well
as what I've done gas welding aluminum. I still have to learn myself some steel
gas welding.
larry(at)macsmachine.com wrote:
> Hi Andy,
> The optimum process would be TIG. Oxyacetylene is a close second as you
> have good control of the heat involved. Should be easier by far to do
> the mount with the
> gas process. I used to gas weld aluminum tanks, but couldn't get
> comfortable flying a gas welded tank. You'll learn more by reading a
> little and practicing with sample
> tube pieces first. I always make weld joint samples before the fact to
> "tune up" the process in my head. Close those gaps before welding.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> ashontz wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I'm still waiting for my conversion manual from WW. What welding method does
he recommend? I was thinking of trying to make my own engine mount as well
using my oxy-acetylene torch I bought for aluminum welding. Any recommendations
for good info on how to weld steel with an oxy-torch?
> >
> > --------
> > Andy Shontz
> > CH601XL - Corvair
> > www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174155#174155
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... |
It doesn't look like it will effect the structural integrity any, it's
just cosmetic. Some of that may get covered up by the nose skin. If it
bothers you, you may be able to work the wrinkles out by rubbing the
metal with the back of a spoon. I think the procedure is described in
the archives somewhere.
Andrewlieser wrote:
>
> Hey all just wanted an opinion. When I opened my rudder kit and checked the
integrity of everything I found only one concern. At first I dismissed it but
as I sit here waiting for my new Doubler angle I have not yet become comfortable
with it. My rudder skins came kind of wrinkled at the bottom front corner
and I just wanted some opinions as to whether the integrity of the part will
be compromised or if its merely aesthetic. If it is only aesthetic will the wrinkling
be removed when the skin is riveted the spar pulling it taught. If you
all think that this could be a problem I will send the photos to Zenith and
see if they will replace it. Please take a look and let me know! Thanks again
to everyone! Here is the link to the picture on my page just double click
the image for a better view.
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
Zenith 601XL N61BM
Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive
Do Not Archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: High wind limits for the 601 series? |
My 601HDS has excellent cross-wind capabilities due to the low/small
wing and strong landing gear. The controls are also quick enough to
handle most gustiness that I'm ever hoping to fly in. But again, the
airplane is only as responsive as the pilot - and some days this
particular pilot is in better shape than others.
As with most things, the more regularly I've flown in wind and
turbulence in a particular aircraft model the more my "comfort"
envelope expands. But if I haven't flown for a while, I back off the
old envelope and start re-expanding it gradually.
My bottom line is "It's supposed to be fun." After 30+ years of
flying in all sorts of "difficult" weather because I was getting paid
to, I now take this "fun" requirement very seriously ;-) ...
If I won't enjoy it - I don't bother. Regardless of what the book
values are. I hope this is helpful Larry for making your own go/no
go calls. Always part of the challenge of flying. <grin>
Grant Corriveau
grant.corriveau@telus.net
-----------------------------
The Wings Stayed On!
-----------------------------
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: High wind limits for the 601 series? |
When preflighting unfamiliar piper low wings I always feel under the wingtip to
check for scratches. Using the wing-low technique in a crosswind can drag a
wing tip if the wind is strong enough. I assume the same might be possible in
a XL.
I have a couple of stories about being blown around on the ground. I once landed
my Champ in a crosswind so strong that when I finally let the tail down the
side wind on the tail pushed it to the side and unlocked the tailwheel so that
I couldn't steer it. I kept it on the runway but needed wing walkers and a
guy holding the tail to get it back to the hangar. Another time I landed at
Great Falls Montana (in a 172) just ahead of a thunderstorm and got the plane
chained down just before the gust front hit. I watched the plane literally flying
in it's chains which is all that kept it from being blown away.
What you can take from all this is that it is one thing getting your XL on the
ground... another keeping it there :-)
Tim
Do not archive
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174162#174162
Message 22
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| Subject: | couple of questions |
Quick survey: has anyone ever bent the main gear on an XL?
Some are flying the Grove gear which is lighter. Has anyone bent it in a
hard landing?
The European XL has a composite main gear but the whole plane is lighter.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Bolding
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 3:05 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: couple of questions
O.K. just asking, just found it a little curious. I guess my thought is
if the gear is strong enough to do the job with holes punched in it , it
could be lighter and do the same job with no holes, but then again, I play
left field without a glove on a pretty regular basis. LO&SLO John
----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Payne <mailto:craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 10:51 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: couple of questions
> O.K. to drill holes in the main part of the gear leg? Cessna uses clips.
John
Well the pictures I posted were of a plane being built at Michael Heintz's
Quality Sport Planes. I know of two others built there with the same
approach. My belief is that the gear is the most robust (over designed?)
part of an XL.
-- Craig
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... |
Is this the way it came out of the shipping crate? Does the crate show signs of
being damaged on that end? If so, IMMEDIATELY take a picture of the part AND
the crate! You have a claim for the part that was damaged. I personally would
NOT put this wavy skin on my airplane and have it look like this. If the
shipping crate wasn't damaged, I would CALL Zenith immediately and let them know
how you received this skin. It should NOT have any waves whatsoever on it.
From what I can tell from the picture, it looks like the end was "jammed" by
something. As I said, take pictures and call Zenith. They can get a replacement
skin sent out to you and possibly help you file the claim from the people
that delivered it to you. You want your aircraft to not only function well,
you want it to LOOK GOOD TOO, right??? I would certainly would especially when
you are going to spend this much money on your airplane!
Larry Hursh
(N601LL Reserved)
SkyriderSBN@Yahoo.com
Keep your eyes skyward - always!
---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total
Access, No Cost.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... |
When I received my rudder kit from Zenith, the rear skin has slipped
down into the crack
between the side and edge of the crate. There was about 2in protruding
from the crate that had been bend over. I had to disassemble the create
to remove it. Zenith replaced the skin, didn't even want pictures.
Ron
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of....
From: Larry Hursh <skyridersbn@yahoo.com>
Is this the way it came out of the shipping crate? Does the crate show
signs of being damaged on that end? If so, IMMEDIATELY take a picture
of the part AND the crate! You have a claim for the part that was
damaged. I personally would NOT put this wavy skin on my airplane and
have it look like this. If the shipping crate wasn't damaged, I would
CALL Zenith immediately and let them know how you received this skin.
It should NOT have any waves whatsoever on it. From what I can tell
from the picture, it looks like the end was "jammed" by something. As I
said, take pictures and call Zenith. They can get a replacement skin
sent out to you and possibly help you file the claim from the people
that delivered it to you. You want your aircraft to not only function
well, you want it to LOOK GOOD TOO, right??? I would certainly would
especially when you are going to spend this much money on your airplane!
Larry Hursh
(N601LL Reserved)
SkyriderSBN@Yahoo.com
Keep your eyes skyward - always!
">one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.
Message 25
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| Subject: | 601XL with Wheel Pants |
Builders,
The photo assembly of the front fork on the 601 XL with wheel pants (new version)
states "radius the front edge of wheel fork".
Can somebody explain to me the purpose of this radius. It doesn't look like the
wheel pant touches there...so?
Thanks,
Mike
do not archive
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174189#174189
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: couple of questions |
I'm new... I've not yet purchased the kit, but I've built the 601XL rudder at the
factory workshop...
Does Zenith provide guidance in the assembly instructions for these items (routing
of wiring and brake lines), or is it up to us to figure it out? I can understand
that each avionics/wiring install is different, but it seems like Zenith
would provide guidance on the brake line installation?
I'm getting ready to order the tail kit (includes plans), so I'm sure a lot of
questions I have will be answered when I review the plans.
Thanks, and I enjoy learning from all the experts here!
Regards,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174198#174198
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL with Wheel Pants |
Hi Mike,
Three things come to mind. The radius edge would certainly cut the air
better if you didn't have the wheel pant on. The radius would reduce
the stress at bending.
The radius would not cut into the fiberglass on the wheel pant if
contact were made at that point. All that aside, the fork would
definitely look better with a nice radius
on the large exposed edges.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
AZFlyer wrote:
>
> Builders,
>
> The photo assembly of the front fork on the 601 XL with wheel pants (new version)
states "radius the front edge of wheel fork".
>
> Can somebody explain to me the purpose of this radius. It doesn't look like
the wheel pant touches there...so?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
> do not archive
>
> --------
> Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
> 601 XL, 3300, Dynon
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... |
It doesn't look like there is any crease at all, I'd shoot them over an email let
them know it MIGHT need replacement. When you get your skeleton complete put
it on there and give it a shot. If you can see it I'm sure they'll send you
another without a doubt. The folks at Zenith are quick to send out replacement
parts and are always more than reasonable. Assuming you don't live in Alaska
or HI you will usually get your parts within a week.
Build your skeleton, enjoy, pay attention to the drawings and you'll be fine.
I find it best to save all my scrap screw ups, especially angle as it can be used
in many places in the event of a mishap. I also prefer to wait for my next
screw up, so I can get multiple screw ups in one shipment. I've actually only
had to have 3 parts replaced (trim tab on elevator, don't ask... HT rear former
on fuselage, don't ask... And FFT tips... damaged in shipment).
Don't let these things hold you back. You still have an entire airplane to build,
there is always something else you can be working on.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174199#174199
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I have installed the Dynon D100 EFIS and the Jabiru 3300.
Dynon say to connect the Tach to the Alternator output then set the
pulses/rev in the setup.
My (probably dumb!) question is How many pulses/rev does the alternator
produce? My first thought was that there were 12 coils on the stator, 12
the figure should be 12, but the Dynon setup only allows up to 8.
I haven't run the engine yet, but would like to get the settings right
before I do.
Dave Johnson
CH601XL
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon D100 rpm |
Dave
The pulse rate for the 3300 is 6 (number of poles divided by number of
wires)
Lane Jones
CH701
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Johnson
To: Zenith List
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Dynon D100 rpm
I have installed the Dynon D100 EFIS and the Jabiru 3300.
Dynon say to connect the Tach to the Alternator output then set the
pulses/rev in the setup.
My (probably dumb!) question is How many pulses/rev does the
alternator produce? My first thought was that there were 12 coils on the
stator, 12 the figure should be 12, but the Dynon setup only allows up
to 8.
I haven't run the engine yet, but would like to get the settings right
before I do.
Dave Johnson
CH601XL
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
Kent White, who can weld cast iron to a loaf of bread without burning
either, uses RG45 on 4130, all ( well, nearly all)the Bearhawk guys use it
as well. A good read on gas welding is under Budd Davisons' website
www.airbum.com, find the link to "Zen and the Weld Puddle" (or close) , 20%
is UNDERSTANDING the basics, the other 99% is practice.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "ashontz" <ashontz@nbme.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:03 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Building Engine Mount
>
> Thanks Larry. What kind of filler is used when welding steel like for an
> engine mount. Currently I'm only familiar with MIG and stick arc welding
> steel as well as what I've done gas welding aluminum. I still have to
> learn myself some steel gas welding.
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | 601 Maintenance in Salty Air |
One of the members of this list sent me an email off-list asking if we had
any secrets for maintaing a 601 in "salty air." I decided to share my
reply. The answer is Yes! It only took a few months for the Continental
0-200 to start showing signs of salt exposure on the cooling fins, fuel
pump, engine mounts, and other parts.
The cure is two part. First, you have to clean it all up. A product called
Salt Away ( see http://www.saltawayproducts.com/ ) can be mixed in a spray
bottle. It's available from boat places and online. A little bit lasts
forever because you dilute it so much.
I have used dental picks, ScotchBrite pads, and a stainless steel brush to
clean up the cooling fins, the front of the fuel pump, parts of the engine
mounts, etc..
The second step is protection. The product to use is called Zep Restore.
It's a spray resin that withstands high temps and does not weaken
insulation, hoses, etc. See http://www.rpi.co.th/psr/Restore.PDF
The major problem is that Zep only sells the stuff in a case of cans. I
can't find anyplace to buy it by-the-can. One can will probably last a few
years. I'm not a dealer. I do not sell the stuff.
After the cleaning and protection, use Salt Away whenever you can.
My 601 lives outside. We took the cowl off today .. about 3 months and 20
flight hours after the "treatment" and it looks pristine.
Oh, also watch the nose wheel support. It seems to get eaten up fast in the
front. I scraped it, masked it off, primed it with galvanized paint, and
sprayed it with Rustoleum from a rattle can. Then, after that dried I
sprayed it with Zep for good measure. That support takes constant
watching.
The "problem" I have not solved is how to "shine" the aluminum nose wheel.
I cleaned it well with ScotchBrite pads and then sprayed it with Zep and it
looks okay, but .... dull.
--
Frank Derfler
-- Daily Discussions of All the Guy Toys that aren't (clearly) illegal or
(blatantly) immoral at my Blog http://MOSTLYFLYING.blogspot.com
- Pilots learn about flights to great places at www.FLYINFLORIDA.COM
-Boaters get the Best Information on Cruising the Florida Keys at
www.KEYSBOATER.com
-For the Best Gifts for Guys see my www.GREATGUYBOOKS.com
Message 33
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| Subject: | 601 Maintenance in Salty Air |
One of the members of this list sent me an email off-list asking if we had
any secrets for maintaing a 601 in "salty air." I decided to share my
reply. The answer is Yes! It only took a few months for the Continental
0-200 to start showing signs of salt exposure on the cooling fins, fuel
pump, engine mounts, and other parts.
The cure is two part. First, you have to clean it all up. A product called
Salt Away ( see http://www.saltawayproducts.com/ ) can be mixed in a spray
bottle. It's available from boat places and online. A little bit lasts
forever because you dilute it so much.
I have used dental picks, ScotchBrite pads, and a stainless steel brush to
clean up the cooling fins, the front of the fuel pump, parts of the engine
mounts, etc..
The second step is protection. The product to use is called Zep Restore.
It's a spray resin that withstands high temps and does not weaken
insulation, hoses, etc. See http://www.rpi.co.th/psr/Restore.PDF
The major problem is that Zep only sells the stuff in a case of cans. I
can't find anyplace to buy it by-the-can. One can will probably last a few
years. I'm not a dealer. I do not sell the stuff.
After the cleaning and protection, use Salt Away whenever you can.
My 601 lives outside. We took the cowl off today .. about 3 months and 20
flight hours after the "treatment" and it looks pristine.
Oh, also watch the nose wheel support. It seems to get eaten up fast in the
front. I scraped it, masked it off, primed it with galvanized paint, and
sprayed it with Rustoleum from a rattle can. Then, after that dried I
sprayed it with Zep for good measure. That support takes constant
watching.
The "problem" I have not solved is how to "shine" the aluminum nose wheel.
I cleaned it well with ScotchBrite pads and then sprayed it with Zep and it
looks okay, but .... dull.
--
Frank Derfler
-- Daily Discussions of All the Guy Toys that aren't (clearly) illegal or
(blatantly) immoral at my Blog http://MOSTLYFLYING.blogspot.com
- Pilots learn about flights to great places at www.FLYINFLORIDA.COM
-Boaters get the Best Information on Cruising the Florida Keys at
www.KEYSBOATER.com
-For the Best Gifts for Guys see my www.GREATGUYBOOKS.com
Message 34
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Since I m almost, almost almost DONE! , I need to ask this question.
Waaay back when I built my rudder ( at the rudder school, under
supervision of Zenith techs ) I was told that I could apply the skins
anyway I wanted. What I m saying is that the techs had me install the
forward skin under the rear skin..
After I returned home with my rudder and kit ,my neighbors said that I
had the skins on backwards. I looked at the CD and saw that "in the old
days" the skins were applied the way I did it. However my drawings show
the forward skin overlaping the rear. I dont think the way I did it
will be a problem at all, but it irratates me to have other aircraft
owners look at my rudder and ( I can see it in their faces ) shake their
heads........
So, have any of yous built your rudder in the manor that I did ?
Steve
QBK ( sure glad it went QBK )
Steves Aircraft Painting Service... NOT!
Message 35
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| Subject: | Interior painting |
I'll make it simple. I'm polishing the outside of my 601XL, but I'm needing help
on the interior paint.
I'm looking for durable, fairly easy to apply and cost effective. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
P.S. I've read the archives, but feel free to point me to a specific previous post.
There must be a gem or two in the thousands of posts containing "paint"!
--------
Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
601XL/Corvair from scratch
Control surfaces and wings complete.
Bottom rear fuselage and firewall done
Ready to join fuselage halves
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174231#174231
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
Andy,
I use an ER70-2 copper coated rod for 4130 aircraft steel. 3/32 and
1/16th inch sizes.
Larry McFarland
ashontz wrote:
>
> Thanks Larry. What kind of filler is used when welding steel like for an engine
mount. Currently I'm only familiar with MIG and stick arc welding steel as
well as what I've done gas welding aluminum. I still have to learn myself some
steel gas welding.
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy issues and VGs |
Larry is right.
My response was not appropriate. I apologize to Andy. Let's build airplanes.
Terry
At 05:45 PM 3/31/2008 -0700, you wrote:
>Gosh, I'm getting a STRONG SENSE of male testosterone floating around this
>forum......boys, can you please use each others email address and take
>this off forum?? I personal don't like reading things like this - its
>foolish - selfish - and extremely egotistical. Please beat each other up
>on YOUR TIME and quit wasting my time to have to read such nonsense.
>
>Larry Hursh
>
>
>ashontz <ashontz@nbme.org> wrote:
>I'm just raising questions that othes can ponder. Your mocking my thinking
>out loud confirms your lack of awareness. If your doctor told you to quit
>eating red meat and cut down on the carbs lest you have a heart attack or
>stroke, would you mock him in the same way? Maybe you won't have a heart
>attack or stroke, but those things definitely don't help. Again, would you
>mock him in a "in your face" kind of way? Doubtful.
>[quote="Terry Phillips"]Gosh, Andy, that'd really be a tough break, so to
>speak.
>I guess that you just stick your head between your legs, grab the hammer
>with your teeth, bash open the cockpit, chew off the seatbelt and shoulder
>belts, and then propel yourself with your feet to the nearest shore.
>Oh wait, I forgot about the fire! Before you do all that, you use your
>teeth to grab the fire extinguisher, set it between your knees, aim it with
>your knees at the fire, then use your teeth to squeeze the trigger until
>you get the fire out.
>Of course, these maneuvers aren't for wimps. I recommend that you engage in
>regular yoga practice to loosen up. The most appropriate pose is shown here:
>
>http://www.geocities.com/donrosenberger/faculty/injurytype.jpg
>Good luck.
>Terry
>At 09:38 AM 3/31/2008 -0700, you wrote:
> > What if both of your arms are broken?
> >
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
Thanks to both of you. I'll have to try it out.
I have Kent White's video etc... on gas welding aluminum. Very informative. It's
actually relaxing to watch too. he's like listening to a hyponotist or something.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174237#174237
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder skins |
I don't recall building the rudder that way, but I did build the wings
that way. Lapping the rear skin over the nose skin will result in a
small reduction in drag because the flow won't separate when it passes
over the seam. With the nose skin lapped over the rear skin, a small
bubble of separated flow forms just behind the seam because the air flow
has to jump off the rear edge of the nose skin and then flow back a bit
before it can reattach to the rear skin. The difference in drag isn't
much, so it doesn't make a lot of difference how you lap the seams. It
seems counterintuitive, but a careful analysis of how the air must flow
over that seam in each case makes it more clear. Chris Heintz used to
cover this topic at his forums at Oshkosh. I think the folks at Zenith
just got tired of explaining this fact and trying to dispel the myth
that lapping the rear skin over the nose skin could somehow allow the
airflow to peal the skin up. So they just changed the plans to show it
the other way and let it go.
Just tell your friends that you built it the way you did to reduce drag
and then look at them like you can't believe they didn't see that for
themselves. ;)
steve wrote:
> Since I m almost, almost almost DONE! , I need to ask this question.
> Waaay back when I built my rudder ( at the rudder school, under
> supervision of Zenith techs ) I was told that I could apply the skins
> anyway I wanted. What I m saying is that the techs had me install the
> forward skin under the rear skin..
> After I returned home with my rudder and kit ,my neighbors said that I
> had the skins on backwards. I looked at the CD and saw that "in the old
> days" the skins were applied the way I did it. However my drawings show
> the forward skin overlaping the rear. I dont think the way I did it
> will be a problem at all, but it irratates me to have other aircraft
> owners look at my rudder and ( I can see it in their faces ) shake their
> heads........
> So, have any of yous built your rudder in the manor that I did ?
> Steve
> QBK ( sure glad it went QBK )
>
> Steves Aircraft Painting Service... NOT!
>
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
Zenith 601XL N61BM
Ram Subaru, Stratus redrive
Do Not Archive
Message 40
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| Subject: | CH701 Door Warning |
Reporting on an incident that could have had serious consequences...
The CH701 was flying straight and level at 70 kts on a cross-country
flight.
While reaching for a water bottle, the pilot accidentally snagged the
left-hand inner door handle, releasing the door. The door instantly
slammed up against the bottom of the wing, with such impact that the
outer handle punched a hole through the wing skin. The pilot grabbed
and held the door with one hand, and slowed the aircraft. But the front
hinge had broken with the initial impact, causing the door to skew
somewhat across the wind. The resulting force was so strong that the
pilot couldn't pull the door in again, even at 50kts. Eventually he had
to let it go. When it went, it hit the horizontal stabilizer, causing
considerable damage to the leading edge, breaking the left forward
mounting bracket (7.H.2.6), and bending the right forward bracket. So
the horiz stab was then somewhat skew to the fuselage.
The aircraft was still flyable, but with considerable drag and a left
yaw bias. The pilot continued on to an airfield and made a successful
landing.
For photographs and analysis have a look at
http://www.stolspeed.com/701-door-warning/
JG
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Maintenance in Salty Air |
> The "problem" I have not solved is how to "shine" the aluminum nose wheel. I
cleaned it well with ScotchBrite pads and then sprayed it with Zep and it looks
okay, but .... dull.
To polish to a shine you need to finish wet sanding with 600, 1000, 1500 grits,
then polish with a buffing wheel and polishing compound for aluminum.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174272#174272
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
Kent makes gas welding aluminum looks too easy but then he is the expert.
Thanks to both of you. I'll have to try it out.
I have Kent White's video etc... on gas welding aluminum. Very informative. It's
actually relaxing to watch too. he's like listening to a hyponotist or something.
--------
Andy Shontz
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174237#174237
---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total
Access, No Cost.
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Building Engine Mount |
I think squeezing the tube ends would be better as well.
Is heating up the tube ends and give them a good wack with a hammer a good way
to squeeze them? What do people use to cut the notches at the end of diagonal
tubes to mate with firewall spools.
LarryMcFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> wrote:
John,
It's better to squeeze the tube edges to maximize the strength of the
weld. Always try to minimize gaps as they do interfere with joint
integrity.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
John Smith wrote:
> I am building the engine mount for Corvair/601XL according William
> Wynne manual which calls for 1/2" round tube for firewall spools and
> 3/4" round diagonal tubes. Do I need to "squeeze" the ends of 3/4"
> diagonal tubes to 1/2" to properly mate with the firewall spools or do
> I leave the 3/4" as-is and somehow "fills" the gaps, due to different
> tube sizes, when welding?
> *
> *
---------------------------------
You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total
Access, No Cost.
Message 44
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| Subject: | buble door latch |
has anyone had good results with the 701 buble door suction cups holding the doors
up?
anyone come up with a better idea?
i beleive gas stuts will just crack the plexi
just havent wanted to put the suction cups in and want somthing better.
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder skin wrinkling kind of.... |
Thanks everyone! Man you guys are quick to help! Everyone brings up a valid point,
I think as a precaution to possibly needing a replacement down the road
I will send them an email with pics just so they have it. This way if the waves
get worse when riveted or the pre drilled holes don't space out right I can
contact them. However over the course of the build I'm sure there will be plenty
of structurally sound parts that get nicked up or blemished plus I'm not
so sure that the waving wont come out when its riveted. Either way this forum
has been great at helping me out as a beginner and I really appreciate it!!
--------
Andrew Lieser
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174285#174285
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Door Warning |
And this warning comes from the guy who swears by VG's. Funny this 701 w
as cruising at only 70 knots.....
do not archive
Reporting on an incident that could have had serious consequences...<?xm
l:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office
" />
The CH701 was flying straight and level at 70 kts on a cross-country fli
ght.
While reaching for a water bottle, the pilot accidentally snagged the le
ft-hand inner door handle, releasing the door. The door instantly slamm
ed up against the bottom of the wing, with such impact that the outer ha
ndle punched a hole through the wing skin. The pilot grabbed and held t
he door with one hand, and slowed the aircraft. But the front hinge had
broken with the initial impact, causing the door to skew somewhat acros
s the wind. The resulting force was so strong that the pilot couldn=92t
pull the door in again, even at 50kts. Eventually he had to let it go.
When it went, it hit the horizontal stabilizer, causing considerable d
amage to the leading edge, breaking the left forward mounting bracket (7
.H.2.6), and bending the right forward bracket. So the horiz stab was t
hen somewhat skew to the fuselage.
The aircraft was still flyable, but with considerable drag and a left ya
w bias. The pilot continued on to an airfield and made a successful lan
ding.
For photographs and analysis have a look at
http://www.stolspeed.com/701-door-warning/
JG
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
===
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Proven Hair Replacement Options. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2221/fc/REAK6aBemFbz5BYu7Qrf3Gvyu
8xQGyO2dAL2lzMi1qi954hEeQam86/
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: buble door latch |
I have suction cups on my bubble doors.
only need approx 1" cup. welded a piece of hollow tube approx 4" to bracket
and pop rivet to underside of wing.
hole drilled through tube and fit a split pin through hole and end of
suction cup for ease of replacement
been on for over a year just holds enough so you can pull down from inside
cockpit. very light.
Graemecns
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy" <pbuttles@charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 2:04 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: buble door latch
>
> has anyone had good results with the 701 buble door suction cups holding
> the doors up?
> anyone come up with a better idea?
> i beleive gas stuts will just crack the plexi
> just havent wanted to put the suction cups in and want somthing better.
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG.
> 5:38 AM
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: buble door latch |
After two years, the old suction cups kept dropping the door, so I replaced them,
and very soon it started dropping again - one time cracking the plexi when
it slammed on the handle.
Installed 40 pound - 8.15 inch gas struts, and they are wonderful.
Fred Sanford N9701
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=174291#174291
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I ask List members to make a Contribution in any amount with which they
are comfortable.
I will often offer free gifts with certain contribution levels during the
Fund Raiser to increase the participation. The gifts are usually donated
by companies that are themselves List members.
Your Contributions go directly to supporting the operation of the Lists
including the high-speed, business-class Internet connection, server
system hardware and software upgrades, and to partially offset the many
many hours I spend running, maintaining, upgrading, and developing the
variety of services found here.
Generally Contributions range from $20 to $100 and are completely voluntary
and non-compulsory. I ask only that if person enjoys the Lists and obtains
value from them, that they make a Contribution of equal magnitude.
Contributions are accepted throughout the year, and if you've just
subscribed, feel free to make a Contribution when you've settled in.
The website for making SSL Secure Contributions is listed below. There are
a variety of payment methods including Visa and MasterCard, PayPal, and
sending a personal check.
If you enjoy and value the List, won't you make a Contribution today to
support its continued operation?
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
Zenith-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Zenith-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the Zenith-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
Zenith-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the Zenith-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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| Subject: | Official Zenith-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the Zenith-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
Zenith-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/Zenith-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
Zenith-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Zenith-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the Zenith-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
Zenith-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the Zenith-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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