Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts (Timothy Croy)
2. 05:06 AM - Fw: CH701 Door Warning (Carl)
3. 06:08 AM - Re: AMD Zodiac XL (chris Sinfield)
4. 07:34 AM - Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts (leinad)
5. 07:39 AM - Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts (Eric Tingey)
6. 07:41 AM - Re: Glue for canopy seal strip (Eric Tingey)
7. 08:01 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts (Timothy Croy)
8. 08:35 AM - Re: CH701 Door Warning (ricklach)
9. 09:17 AM - 701 nose wheel/rudder feel (Jerry Hey)
10. 11:30 AM - Re: 701 nose wheel/rudder feel (John Bolding)
11. 01:12 PM - Re: CH701 Door Warning (JG)
12. 01:34 PM - 601 ailerons bellcrank brackets (pavel569)
13. 01:53 PM - Re: Re: CH701 Door Warning (JG)
14. 03:00 PM - Perfect Example of Over Control Leading to Failure (Gig Giacona)
15. 04:43 PM - Monday Night Chat (George Race)
16. 04:53 PM - Facet Fuel pump amperage (Jeff)
17. 05:49 PM - Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage (Terry Phillips)
18. 06:36 PM - Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage (Jeff)
19. 07:15 PM - Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage (Paul Mulwitz)
20. 08:13 PM - Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage (Terry Phillips)
21. 08:33 PM - Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage (Bryan Martin)
22. 08:45 PM - Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts |
Here's what I used for my canopy, got it from Aircraft spruce:
Part no. 05-01500 RUBBER CHANNEL & MOLDING #4
Good luck,
Tim
On 4/5/08, Gig Giacona <wr.giacona@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>
> wr.giacona@suddenlink.net>
>
> You could always get it from Zenith.
>
>
> leinad wrote:
> > I'm still looking for a good source for the canopy seal and the rubber
> wing root fairings. Who sells this stuff?
> > I got some rubber extrusion that looks like the stuff for the canopy
> seal from ACS, but it's only for 1/8 thickness material. My canopy is
> thicker than that.
> >
> > Dan Dempsey
> > 601xl with Corvair, plans builder
>
>
> --------
> W.R. "Gig" Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175031#175031
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | CH701 Door Warning |
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
JG
Was this a bubble door or the old style straight door?
I've had the old style door open in flight and it was stable at about
45'.
Scary, a few extra knots would have taken the horizontal stab right off.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: JG
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
There's now a follow-up on the door incident page at
http://www.stolspeed.com/701-door-warning/
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: JG
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
Reporting on an incident that could have had serious consequences...
The CH701 was flying straight and level at 70 kts on a cross-country
flight.
While reaching for a water bottle, the pilot accidentally snagged
the left-hand inner door handle, releasing the door. The door instantly
slammed up against the bottom of the wing, with such impact that the
outer handle punched a hole through the wing skin. The pilot grabbed
and held the door with one hand, and slowed the aircraft. But the front
hinge had broken with the initial impact, causing the door to skew
somewhat across the wind. The resulting force was so strong that the
pilot couldn't pull the door in again, even at 50kts. Eventually he had
to let it go. When it went, it hit the horizontal stabilizer, causing
considerable damage to the leading edge, breaking the left forward
mounting bracket (7.H.2.6), and bending the right forward bracket. So
the horiz stab was then somewhat skew to the fuselage.
The aircraft was still flyable, but with considerable drag and a
left yaw bias. The pilot continued on to an airfield and made a
successful landing.
For photographs and analysis have a look at
http://www.stolspeed.com/701-door-warning/
JG
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: AMD Zodiac XL |
Juan
Was that 1000 hours in your Zodiac XL or 100 hours and a slip of the 0???
Chris. [Question]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175061#175061
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts |
Tim,
I got the same stuff from ACS, and I think it's going to work even though I've
got Todd's 3/16" thick canopy. Any source for the wing root fairing?
Dan
> "twcroy(at)gmail.com"]Here's what I used for my canopy, got it from Aircraft
spruce:
>
> Part no. 05-01500 RUBBER CHANNEL & MOLDING #4
>
> Good luck,
> Tim
>
You could always get it from Zenith.
leinad wrote:
> I'm still looking for a good source for the canopy seal and the rubber wing
root fairings. Who sells this stuff?
> I got some rubber extrusion that looks like the stuff for the canopy seal from
ACS, but it's only for 1/8 thickness material. My canopy is thicker than that.
> >
>
> Dan Dempsey
> 601xl with Corvair, plans builder
>
>
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR (http://www.peoamerica.net/N601WR)
> [b]
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175069#175069
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts |
3M Part #
051135-08001 SUPER WEATHERSTRIP ADHESIVE 5Oz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175070#175070
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Glue for canopy seal strip |
3m Part #
051135-08001 SUPER WEATHERSTRIP ADHESIVE 5Oz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175071#175071
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Seal and other Rubber parts |
Dan,
No I didn't need it for the ring root fairing on my 601HDS. The builder
used aluminum flashing I think for it. Hope this helps.
Tim
On 4/6/08, leinad <leinad@hughes.net> wrote:
>
>
> Tim,
> I got the same stuff from ACS, and I think it's going to work even though
> I've got Todd's 3/16" thick canopy. Any source for the wing root fairing?
> Dan
>
>
> > "twcroy(at)gmail.com"]Here's what I used for my canopy, got it from
> Aircraft spruce:
> >
> > Part no. 05-01500 RUBBER CHANNEL & MOLDING #4
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Tim
> >
>
>
> "Gig Giacona"
>
> You could always get it from Zenith.
>
>
> leinad wrote:
>
> > I'm still looking for a good source for the canopy seal and the rubber
> wing root fairings. Who sells this stuff?
> > I got some rubber extrusion that looks like the stuff for the canopy
> seal from ACS, but it's only for 1/8 thickness material. My canopy is
> thicker than that.
> > >
> >
>
>
> > Dan Dempsey
> > 601xl with Corvair, plans builder
> >
> >
>
>
> --------
> W.R. "Gig" Giacona
> 601XL Under Construction
> See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR (
> http://www.peoamerica.net/N601WR)
>
> > [b]
>
>
> --------
> Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175069#175069
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Door Warning |
Hi John (JG),
I would like to thank you for your continuing effort to innovate changes in a proven
design for the thrill and safety of flying, and then sharing the results
with us. Ive always thought the door assembly was a little light but never thought
about the possible results of a mishap like Hans went through. I like your
new latch solution. Could you please post some more photos on your web sight.
Its always interesting to read your post.
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175079#175079
Message 9
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| Subject: | 701 nose wheel/rudder feel |
A question for you experienced 701 pilots, does having the nose wheel
linked to the rudder pedals, affect rudder feel or have any other
negative affect? This might especially apply to Tundra tires.
Thanks, Jerry
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 701 nose wheel/rudder feel |
Jerry, this has been beat to death both here and on the Zenith list, do a
little digging in the past posts and you'll have all you ever wanted to know
about the subject.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Hey" <jerry@jerryhey.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 nose wheel/rudder feel
>
> A question for you experienced 701 pilots, does having the nose wheel
> linked to the rudder pedals, affect rudder feel or have any other
> negative affect? This might especially apply to Tundra tires.
> Thanks, Jerry
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Door Warning |
Gday Carl,
No this was the old style door. An early model.
They were very flexible. In the re-build Hans used .060 instead of .025
for the corner gussets, and that made a much stiffer and better feeling
door.
Basically I think any door has this potential if the airflow catches it
just wrong, then everything will change instantly.
Tailwinds always,
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
JG
Was this a bubble door or the old style straight door?
I've had the old style door open in flight and it was stable at about
45'.
Scary, a few extra knots would have taken the horizontal stab right
off.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: JG
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
There's now a follow-up on the door incident page at
http://www.stolspeed.com/701-door-warning/
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: JG
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: CH701 Door Warning
Reporting on an incident that could have had serious
consequences...
The CH701 was flying straight and level at 70 kts on a
cross-country flight.
While reaching for a water bottle, the pilot accidentally snagged
the left-hand inner door handle, releasing the door. The door instantly
slammed up against the bottom of the wing, with such impact that the
outer handle punched a hole through the wing skin. The pilot grabbed
and held the door with one hand, and slowed the aircraft. But the front
hinge had broken with the initial impact, causing the door to skew
somewhat across the wind. The resulting force was so strong that the
pilot couldn't pull the door in again, even at 50kts. Eventually he had
to let it go. When it went, it hit the horizontal stabilizer, causing
considerable damage to the leading edge, breaking the left forward
mounting bracket (7.H.2.6), and bending the right forward bracket. So
the horiz stab was then somewhat skew to the fuselage.
The aircraft was still flyable, but with considerable drag and a
left yaw bias. The pilot continued on to an airfield and made a
successful landing.
For photographs and analysis have a look at
http://www.stolspeed.com/701-door-warning/
JG
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 12
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| Subject: | 601 ailerons bellcrank brackets |
I've just got into a little problem. My kit came with a predrilled holes in rib#7
for 6W6-10 channel. If I follow the drawings, the upper edge of the lower bracket
should be 70mm from the bottom of the rib at center of the channel. But
centers of the predrilled holes are just at the lower edge of the bracket. I'm
going to make a set of brackets 10mm longer so I'll rivet the channel together
with the bracket and ribs with 3+2 rivets on the lower bracket. Anybody has
better solution? I don't want to make a groove in the bracket to make a space
for the rivets, it would be just 5mm from the hole.
--------
Pavel
CA
Zodiac XL N581PM (Reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175107#175107
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg1443_166.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg1442_101.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg1441_192.jpg
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: CH701 Door Warning |
Thanks for your supportive comments Rick.
Those heavier gussets in the corners really made a big difference in the
stiffness of the door. That was an early model door, and they are a
little bit different from the later model in Hans own aircraft. In the
early model there was a gusseted corner at the bottom of the trailing
edge, whereas the later model has the tubing sweeping around a radius
corner in one piece. That gusseted corner is the source of much of that
flexibility.
The main part of that latch is pretty standard, but the sliding rod to
the trailing edge is a new idea borrowed from a Rans S7. We still have
to get it to work on the aircraft, which is a 6 hour drive away. I'll
post more photos when it's fully installed.
Tailwinds always,
JG
----- Original Message -----
From: ricklach
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 1:31 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: CH701 Door Warning
Hi John (JG),
I would like to thank you for your continuing effort to innovate
changes in a proven design for the thrill and safety of flying, and then
sharing the results with us. I?Tve always thought the door assembly
was a little light but never thought about the possible results of a
mishap like Hans went through. I like your new latch solution. Could you
please post some more photos on your web sight.
It?Ts always interesting to read your post.
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175079#175079
Message 14
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| Subject: | Perfect Example of Over Control Leading to Failure |
A friend of mine is a Boy Scout pack leader (or what ever they call the adults
that run the group). This weekend they had a camp out at a near buy airport with
several activities that will allow the boys to get their aviation merit badge.
Among the events the local R/C aircraft guys brought out their models and let the
kids fly them with a pretty neat dual control rig that allowed dual controls.
While one of the kids was flying he brought the model into a climb and the guy
teaching him told him to add full power. Instead of pushing the throttle stick
forward the scout pushed the elevator full forward very quickly. If you are
playing along at home you can probably guess what happened next. The wings folded
up then departed the aircraft.
What really amazed me was the metal spar that was a rod that ran the entire span
of both wings. Play with the litter that had a few minutes before been a nice
model I tried to bend the rod back into shape. I couldn't do it. I grab my friend
and both of us working to gather had a real hard time bending it.
The moral of the story... excess G's and over control are a bad thing.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=175120#175120
Message 15
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| Subject: | Monday Night Chat |
Tomorrow evening is the next chat. I will not be available and guess that
many will probably be at SNF for the week.
Please join us for our Monday evening chat room starting around
8:00 PM Eastern (Daylight Savings Time now in effect)
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
George
CH-701 N73EX (Reserved)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Facet Fuel pump amperage |
I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my leading edge fuel tanks only fuel
system. I wired up the pumps today and tested them for the first time.
According to Facet/ Purolator, they should draw .75 to 1 amp. With 1 amp
fuses on each both pumps promptly blew the fuses on their separate circuits
after a few seconds. I put in 2 amp fuses and both would run OK. Looking
at the archives, there was a lot of discussion about this in the 1999 and
2000 time frame. Since the documentation seems to be inaccurate, what size
fuse or breaker are those with this pump using: one, two, three, or five amp
fuses? Thanks ..
Jeff Davidson
CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
Gonna' finish sometime!
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage |
Jeff
I believe that the only important thing about amperage of the pumps is that
you size the wires appropriately so that the wires are sized large enough
so that:
1. they don't overheat, and
2. the voltage remaining after the drop in the wire is sufficient to drive
the pump.
The function of the fuse is to protect the wire, not the pump. You do not
want the wire to overheat and start a fire.
So I suggest you go with a fuse of the largest amperage that will not
severely overheat the wires. Check out Table 11-3 in AC43.13-1B. If you're
using AWG 22 wire, use a 5 amp fuse.
Terry
At 07:51 PM 4/6/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my leading edge fuel tanks only
>fuel system. I wired up the pumps today and tested them for the first
>time. According to Facet/ Purolator, they should draw .75 to 1 amp. With
>1 amp fuses on each both pumps promptly blew the fuses on their separate
>circuits after a few seconds. I put in 2 amp fuses and both would run
>OK. Looking at the archives, there was a lot of discussion about this in
>the 1999 and 2000 time frame. Since the documentation seems to be
>inaccurate, what size fuse or breaker are those with this pump using: one,
>two, three, or five amp fuses? Thanks =85.
>
>
>Jeff Davidson
>
>CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
>
>Gonna' finish sometime!
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 18
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| Subject: | Facet Fuel pump amperage |
Do not archive
Thanks Terry. My wires are fine. I was thinking about that 30 amp fuse that
protects the entire electrical system. Blowing that could turn a lot of
things off! I figured 1 amp for each fuel pump when I calculated my
electrical load. The Jabiru has a 20 amp generator.
Jeff Davidson
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Phillips
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Facet Fuel pump amperage
Jeff
I believe that the only important thing about amperage of the pumps is that
you size the wires appropriately so that the wires are sized large enough so
that:
1. they don't overheat, and
2. the voltage remaining after the drop in the wire is sufficient to drive
the pump.
The function of the fuse is to protect the wire, not the pump. You do not
want the wire to overheat and start a fire.
So I suggest you go with a fuse of the largest amperage that will not
severely overheat the wires. Check out Table 11-3 in AC43.13-1B. If you're
using AWG 22 wire, use a 5 amp fuse.
Terry
At 07:51 PM 4/6/2008 -0400, you wrote:
I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my leading edge fuel tanks only fuel
system. I wired up the pumps today and tested them for the first time.
According to Facet/ Purolator, they should draw .75 to 1 amp. With 1 amp
fuses on each both pumps promptly blew the fuses on their separate circuits
after a few seconds. I put in 2 amp fuses and both would run OK. Looking
at the archives, there was a lot of discussion about this in the 1999 and
2000 time frame. Since the documentation seems to be inaccurate, what size
fuse or breaker are those with this pump using: one, two, three, or five amp
fuses? Thanks ..
Jeff Davidson
CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
Gonna' finish sometime!
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons are
done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage |
Hi Jeff,
I would go with the bigger fuse and not worry
about it. If the fuel pump develops a short to
ground then any size fuse will blow.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 04:51 PM 4/6/2008, you wrote:
>I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my
>leading edge fuel tanks only fuel system. I
>wired up the pumps today and tested them for the
>first time. According to Facet/ Purolator, they
>should draw .75 to 1 amp. With 1 amp fuses on
>each both pumps promptly blew the fuses on their
>separate circuits after a few seconds. I put in
>2 amp fuses and both would run OK. Looking at
>the archives, there was a lot of discussion
>about this in the 1999 and 2000 time
>frame. Since the documentation seems to be
>inaccurate, what size fuse or breaker are those
>with this pump using: one, two, three, or five amp fuses? Thanks =85.
>
>
>Jeff Davidson
>
>CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
>
>Gonna' finish sometime
Message 20
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| Subject: | Facet Fuel pump amperage |
Interesting approach, Jeff.
If I understand you correctly, you are concerned that a momentary, short
circuit load on, e.g., a fuel pump power lead might blow your main system fuse.
I'm just a reader of the aeroelectric connection, and most of what I know
about airplane electric systems comes from there. And, God knows, I don't
understand all that I've read. So, take this with that in mind.
I haven't seen your schematic, so I'm not sure what the function is of the
30 amp fuse that "protects the entire electric system." I know that the
Jabiru 3300 alternator is rated at 20 amps. That says to me that the steady
state load on the electrical system should be less than 20 amps (so there
are some amps left over to recharge the battery after starting). A
transient load can be much greater than 20 without compromising the
system--what does your starter draw? More than 30 amps, I'd guess.
So, if the 30 amp fuse is designed to protect the cable from the battery to
the main bus, you might consider a larger cable. Then you don't have to
worry about blowing the 30 amp fuse. If you're happy with 30-amp capacity,
you might consider using some sort of slow-blow 30-amp fuse so that a
momentary 5 amp overload on some circuit would not blow the main fuse.
(Something like the LITTELFUSE JCASE HIGH AMP FUSE, PINK 30 AMP (JCAS30BP))
The fuse-to-protect-the-wiring approach makes sense to me. Other approaches
might work for you. But I think that the last thing I'd want in my airplane
is a fuse to the fuel pump that is operating right at the limit of its
capacity.
Terry
At 09:33 PM 4/6/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>Do not archive
>
>Thanks Terry. My wires are fine. I was thinking about that 30 amp fuse
>that protects the entire electrical system. Blowing that could turn a lot
>of things off! I figured 1 amp for each fuel pump when I calculated my
>electrical load. The Jabiru has a 20 amp generator.
>
>Jeff Davidson
>
>
>----------
>From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Phillips
>Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 8:43 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Facet Fuel pump amperage
>
>
>Jeff
>
>I believe that the only important thing about amperage of the pumps is
>that you size the wires appropriately so that the wires are sized large
>enough so that:
>
>1. they don't overheat, and
>2. the voltage remaining after the drop in the wire is sufficient to drive
>the pump.
>
>The function of the fuse is to protect the wire, not the pump. You do not
>want the wire to overheat and start a fire.
>
>So I suggest you go with a fuse of the largest amperage that will not
>severely overheat the wires. Check out Table 11-3 in AC43.13-1B. If you're
>using AWG 22 wire, use a 5 amp fuse.
>
>Terry
>
>
>At 07:51 PM 4/6/2008 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my leading edge fuel tanks only
>fuel system. I wired up the pumps today and tested them for the first
>time. According to Facet/ Purolator, they should draw .75 to 1 amp. With
>1 amp fuses on each both pumps promptly blew the fuses on their separate
>circuits after a few seconds. I put in 2 amp fuses and both would run
>OK. Looking at the archives, there was a lot of discussion about this in
>the 1999 and 2000 time frame. Since the documentation seems to be
>inaccurate, what size fuse or breaker are those with this pump using: one,
>two, three, or five amp fuses? Thanks &.
>
>
>Jeff Davidson
>
>CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
>
>Gonna' finish sometime!
>
>
>Terry Phillips
>ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
>Corvallis MT
>601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
>are done; working on the wings
>http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
>
>
>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail, flaps, & ailerons
are done; working on the wings
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel pump amperage |
I have 5 amp fuses for my facet pumps. As a general rule, the fuse
should be rated for at least 125% of the maximum continuous load on
the circuit. The primary function of the fuse is to protect the wire
feeding the circuit, not to protect the device being fed by the
circuit. It doesn't hurt to have a larger fuse than the device is
rated for, as long as the wire feeding the circuit can handle it.
On Apr 6, 2008, at 7:51 PM, Jeff wrote:
> I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my leading edge fuel tanks
> only fuel system. I wired up the pumps today and tested them for
> the first time. According to Facet/ Purolator, they should draw .75
> to 1 amp. With 1 amp fuses on each both pumps promptly blew the
> fuses on their separate circuits after a few seconds. I put in 2
> amp fuses and both would run OK. Looking at the archives, there was
> a lot of discussion about this in the 1999 and 2000 time frame.
> Since the documentation seems to be inaccurate, what size fuse or
> breaker are those with this pump using: one, two, three, or five amp
> fuses? Thanks =85.
>
> Jeff Davidson
> CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
> Gonna' finish sometime!
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Facet Fuel pump amperage |
This link says "Apply pump to a properly fused circuit of 3-7 amps.":
http://www.facet-purolator.com/mcl/pages/frame_src/ttips_frmsrc.html
This page says "1.6 amp average":
http://www.facet-purolator.com/mcl/media/technology/hd_pdfs/Cubed_Solid.pdf
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 5:51 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Facet Fuel pump amperage
I'm using the Facet 40105 fuel pumps in my leading edge fuel tanks only fuel
system. I wired up the pumps today and tested them for the first time.
According to Facet/ Purolator, they should draw .75 to 1 amp. With 1 amp
fuses on each both pumps promptly blew the fuses on their separate circuits
after a few seconds. I put in 2 amp fuses and both would run OK. Looking
at the archives, there was a lot of discussion about this in the 1999 and
2000 time frame. Since the documentation seems to be inaccurate, what size
fuse or breaker are those with this pump using: one, two, three, or five amp
fuses? Thanks ..
Jeff Davidson
CH601-HD/Jabiru 3300A
Gonna' finish sometime!
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