Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:30 AM - Re: White lettering on Panel (Gary Ray)
2. 04:48 AM - Re: Zenith-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 05/16/08 (Yak52@aol.com)
3. 04:50 AM - Re: Re: Aileron balance (Yak52@aol.com)
4. 06:44 AM - Re: Re: now back to XL building (Jaybannist@cs.com)
5. 06:57 AM - Re: Re: White lettering on Panel (Jaybannist@cs.com)
6. 01:04 PM - General shop-type question (Bill Naumuk)
7. 02:41 PM - Re: General shop-type question (Thruster87)
8. 03:13 PM - Re: General shop-type question (Ron Lendon)
9. 03:48 PM - Re: General shop-type question (George Race)
10. 05:31 PM - Re: General shop-type question (Aerolitellc@aol.com)
11. 06:27 PM - 601 Canopy sealant (leinad)
12. 06:41 PM - Shop Question (Bill Naumuk)
13. 09:42 PM - Re: 601 Canopy sealant (Bryan Martin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: White lettering on Panel |
Jay in Dallas CH 601XL N2630J "lil Bruiser"
With reference to your 5-16-08 post:
You have a very attractive instrument panel. How did you do the White
lettering?
Gary Ray 601XL, 73 HrTT, WW Corvair
davgray@sbcglobal.net
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 05/16/08 |
Working from a good set of plans helps resolve the dilemma. The designer
will have already investigated and eliminated the problem in the construction
and subsequent flight test evaluations of the prototype "
While you are pondering this statement from the EAA article, and the
further statement that many airplanes do not have balanced control surfaces- please
also consider how you are going to evaluate the torsional effects of placing
these weights on one end of the aileron- i.e. the twist that will be placed
on the aileron at speed; and whether or not the end ribs in the aileron will
withstand those stresses as they were clearly not designed to handle either
or both of them in this airpalne.
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron balance |
Working from a good set of plans helps resolve the dilemma. The designer
will have already investigated and eliminated the problem in the construction
and subsequent flight test evaluations of the prototype "
While you are pondering this statement from the EAA article, and the further
statement that many airplanes do not have balanced control surfaces- please
also consider how you are going to evaluate the torsional effects of placing
these weights on one end of the aileron- i.e. the twist that will be placed
on the aileron at speed; and whether or not the end ribs in the aileron will
withstand those stresses as they were clearly not designed to handle either or
both of them in this airpalne.
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: now back to XL building |
Chris,
I have attached two pdfs that can be put together to form a full size pattern of
what I built. For scaling, the "match line" must be exactly 10" long. Let
me know if you have questions.
Jay in Dallas
"chris Sinfield" <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>
>I was planning to just extend it as per the photo , but if anyone has the measurements
or drawing it would sure make life easier.
>Chris
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183505#183505
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: White lettering on Panel |
Gary,
I used a Brother P-Touch gizmo with a 3/4" wide tape that has white lettering on
a clear background.
Jay in Dallas
"Gary Ray" <davgray@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>Jay in Dallas CH 601XL N2630J "lil Bruiser"
>
> With reference to your 5-16-08 post:
> You have a very attractive instrument panel. How did you do the White
>lettering?
>
>Gary Ray 601XL, 73 HrTT, WW Corvair
>davgray@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>----
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | General shop-type question |
All-
Bought a polishing wheel and want to clean the light rust off of
something. Do I wire-wheel the piece first, or does that make it harder
later on?
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: General shop-type question |
Howdy, If the item you wish to remove corrosion from is Aluminum don't use a wire
wheel as it can leave small pieces of iron impregnated in the job and it can
also cover and hide existing corrosion.Emery mops ,grit blasting and scraping
are the mainstay for surface corrosion.Rust is another matter as it's steel
based.Cheers
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183569#183569
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: General shop-type question |
Bill,
Polishing requires much surface preparation matters not whether aluminum or steel.
Your mention of rust makes me think you are talking about steel. If you
really want to polish you will sand, wet or otherwise, from 600 grit to about
1500 grit before polishing.
Of course if your part is rougher that 600 grit to begin with, a coarser grit will
be appropriate to get it smooth before you begin the polishing process.
Hope that gives you some help.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183571#183571
Message 9
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| Subject: | General shop-type question |
Hi Bill:
I think you will find you get better results by using a "Green Scotch Pad"
instead of a wire wheel. The wire wheel will leave scratches and groves
that will be more difficult to polish out.
George - 701 - N73EX
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Naumuk
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 3:59 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: General shop-type question
All-
Bought a polishing wheel and want to clean the light rust off of
something. Do I wire-wheel the piece first, or does that make it harder
later on?
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Fuse/Corvair
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: General shop-type question |
O no here we go with the scotch pad discussion again...... :(
In a message dated 5/17/2008 6:49:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mykitairplane@mrrace.com writes:
Hi Bill:
I think you will find you get better results by using a "Green Scotch Pad"
instead of a wire wheel. The wire wheel will leave scratches and groves that
will be more difficult to polish out.
George - 701 - N73EX
**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
Message 11
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| Subject: | 601 Canopy sealant |
Neither the plans or the photo guides talk about sealing the canopy where it goes
under the front and side flashing. It seams like a lot of water would find
its way into the canopy frame in a rain if it's put together dry. Is anyone
sealing it with something. If so what material?
Dan Dempsey
plans building 601XL with Corvair
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183598#183598
Message 12
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All-
It's steel. Using the best of everyones input, I'll try wire
wheeling and then wet sanding. Scotchbrite might work, but I don't have
any on hand.
I'm colorblind as hell. It wouldn't matter what Scotchbrite I didn't
have. Used to be excluded from night flight until they relaxed the
medical requirements. Not that I really care- I might have logged 2 hrs
night time in 20 years.
Do not archive
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 601 Canopy sealant |
I put some thin rubber strips between the plexiglas and the side
flashing. I believe it was storm door window weather strip, something
I had laying around the garage. I used 3M automotive foam trim tape
between the front flashing and the plexiglas. Just take a good look at
any place where water can get in the plane and use whatever is
suitable to either keep the water out or to channel it away from the
interior of the plane.
On May 17, 2008, at 9:24 PM, leinad wrote:
>
> Neither the plans or the photo guides talk about sealing the canopy
> where it goes under the front and side flashing. It seams like a
> lot of water would find its way into the canopy frame in a rain if
> it's put together dry. Is anyone sealing it with something. If so
> what material?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
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