Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:10 AM - Re: Technique For Pull Riveting In Tight Places (Peter Barthold)
2. 05:26 AM - Gauging Material thickness (Al Hays)
3. 05:57 AM - Re: Gauging Material thickness (Carlos Sa)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: Gauging Material thickness (Peter Barthold)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Gauging Material thickness (Debo Cox)
6. 06:16 AM - Re: Gauging Material thickness (bryanekholm)
7. 06:42 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Bearings Questions (LarryMcFarland)
8. 06:47 AM - Re: [Probable Spam] Gauging Material thickness (LarryMcFarland)
9. 07:05 AM - Re: Rotax high oil temperature (John Goodings)
10. 07:20 AM - Re: William Wynn Refund (Eric Ingraham)
11. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: Rotax high oil temperature (Jeyoung65@aol.com)
12. 08:01 AM - Re: William Wynn Refund (LHusky@aol.com)
13. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: Gauging Material thickness (Randy L. Thwing)
14. 09:44 AM - Re: Gauging Material thickness (raymondj)
15. 09:48 AM - Re: Scratch, kit , and Quick Build, build time survey (mcjon77)
16. 12:24 PM - Fw: Alternator (Grant Corriveau)
17. 01:36 PM - Re: Fw: Alternator (Gig Giacona)
18. 01:56 PM - Re: Fw: Alternator (Bryan Martin)
19. 03:40 PM - 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona (LHusky@aol.com)
20. 03:47 PM - Re: 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona (LHusky@aol.com)
21. 07:00 PM - Re: 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona (Ron Lendon)
22. 08:15 PM - corvair rod balancing tool (Dave Thompson)
23. 08:51 PM - Re: 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona (PatrickW)
24. 10:48 PM - Re: Alternator failure (Grant Corriveau)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Technique For Pull Riveting In Tight Places |
Hi Dave,
I knew about the technique with the wedge shaped nosepiece. So far, I never had
to use it. Maybe the 601 does not have the crammed spaces a sonex has?.
However, the concave shape of your riveter nosepieces is not hard to do.
Look here:
http://www.petersprojekt42.de/tipsntricks.htm
keep on building
Peter
601HDS
wings in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187322#187322
Message 2
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| Subject: | Gauging Material thickness |
Listers,
Any recommendations for the best tool for measuring the thickness of
sheet aluminum? Inexpensive is preferred if accuracy is reasonably
good.
I don't trust my old eyes to tell the difference in thickness between
unmarked pieces of sheet aluminum (6061-T6) without laying them on a
flat piece of glass next to another piece of known thickness. Not
too hard to see a piece of .032 isn't .016 but not quite so easy with
smaller pieces of .020, 025, etc.
Sorry if this seems like a dumb question but maybe my display of
ignorance can benefit some others.
Al Hays
N5892H and N701GH reserved
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
Years ago I bought a digital caliper on eBay. I just checked, and there are
lots of them available in the $15-$25 range.
I think it's a good investment.
Carlos
2008/6/11 Al Hays <alhays@hickoryhillfarmsheep.com>:
> Listers,
>
> Any recommendations for the best tool for measuring the thickness of sheet
> aluminum? Inexpensive is preferred if accuracy is reasonably good.
>
> I don't trust my old eyes to tell the difference in thickness between
> unmarked pieces of sheet aluminum (6061-T6) without laying them on a flat
> piece of glass next to another piece of known thickness. Not too hard to
> see a piece of .032 isn't .016 but not quite so easy with smaller pieces of
> .020, 025, etc.
>
> Sorry if this seems like a dumb question but maybe my display of ignorance
> can benefit some others.
>
> Al Hays
> N5892H and N701GH reserved
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
Hi Al,
there is no such thing called "dumb question".
Some dare to ask, some don't [Wink]
The tool you want is a "digital caliper"
I don't know about you in the States, over here in Germany they sell those for
less than 15 Euros.
Advantage of a digital caliper is, you don't have to calculate, you can interchange
inch and mm and the digits are BIG.
Regards
Peter
601HDS Winkit in Progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187341#187341
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
Hey Al!
Not a dumb question at all. Get yourself a dial caliper. You'll find a thousand
uses for it - from measuring metal thickness to sizing bolts, measuring drill
bits, etc. I wouldn't consider trying to build my airplane without one.
Like anything, you can pay a little or a lot. Just remember that you get what you
pay for. Mine was about $35 and works just fine. They have digital or analog
(dial) ones available at any of the aircraft stores, Harbor Freight - those
kinds of places.
Hope this helps.
Debo Cox
Nags Head, NC
XL/Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/debo
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
Harbor Freight has a digital caliper on sale now for $19.99. Check out their home
page.
Bryan Ekholm
--------
Bryan Ekholm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187344#187344
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Bearings Questions |
Hi Pat,
Do you have a number for that tapered roller bearing?
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
do not archive
pat & lyn wrote:
> Hay U all,I just went through this bearing problem on my 601,I had
> the 5/8 roller bearing,I replaced it with a 5/8 tapered, much less
> friction. Qestion call Pat 941 270 7802
----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Aerolitellc@aol.com <mailto:Aerolitellc@aol.com>
> *To:* zenith-list@matronics.com <mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, June 09, 2008 4:09 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Zenith-List: Nose Wheel Bearings Questions
>
> Ours fell apart after about 10 hours (couldn't find any of the
> bearings) if it is the same one piece bearing. If you have the
> small axle I would call zenith and upgrade to the bearings that
> comes with the new kits. They use thicker axles and better
> bearings and I think the axle is only like 8 bucks.
>
> Jeff
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
Hi Al,
It's a good question, but the answer is probably a micrometer or a dial
caliper.
With the dial caliper, you have to be sure there's no raised edge or
burrs present to get a good reading.
Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com
Al Hays wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Any recommendations for the best tool for measuring the thickness of
> sheet aluminum? Inexpensive is preferred if accuracy is reasonably good.
>
> I don't trust my old eyes to tell the difference in thickness between
> unmarked pieces of sheet aluminum (6061-T6) without laying them on a
> flat piece of glass next to another piece of known thickness. Not too
> hard to see a piece of .032 isn't .016 but not quite so easy with
> smaller pieces of .020, 025, etc.
>
> Sorry if this seems like a dumb question but maybe my display of
> ignorance can benefit some others.
>
> Al Hays
> N5892H and N701GH reserved
>
> do not archive
> *
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax high oil temperature |
Frank: What Bryan and Dave said about increasing the air flow OUT is
absolutely correct, in my experience. In addition, and on the advice of
ZAC (Nicholas Heintz - this was the early days of the Rotax 912S in 2002,
which presented new cooling problems compared with the 80 HP R912), ZAC
sent me a wide fibreglass NACA vent which I installed under the main air
intake aperture in the front of the cowl, right in front of the oil cooler
radiator. It was necessary to cut a sort of rectangular hole through the
cowl and fibreglass the NACA vent in place, but it wasn't hard to make a
nice job. Perhaps ZAC still has some of these NACA vents. One important
point with any of these vents: the gap between the fibreglass and the
metal rad must be as small as possible without any chance of rubbing;
otherwise, the air goes around the edge, and not through the rad. Thus, I
suggest that you increase the outlet area at the rear-bottom of the cowl,
and make a 1" lip as Bryan and Dave suggested. If that isn't
satisfactory, you might pursue the NACA vent route in addition.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Toronto/Carp/Ottawa.
Message 10
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| Subject: | William Wynn Refund |
William Wynn can be reached at 904-529-0006...I spoke with him last week re
garding an engine purchase. Great guy and wealth of knowledge.
From: LHusky@aol.comDate: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 12:57:50 -0400Subject: Zenith-Lis
t: William Wynn RefundTo: zenith-list@matronics.com
I had ordered the installation manual from WW a few weeks ago. I paid with
paypal and was waiting for the manual. Today, I got back from picking up
601 parts and found that my money had been refunded to my paypal account.
I cannot find any phone number to contact him. Anyone had the same thing h
appen? Anyone have a good phone number for him?
Thanks,
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence"
on AOL Food.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax high oil temperature |
I have a question about the gap for a corvair not the Rotax. What kind of
gap is used for this engine? Jerry of GA DO NOT ARCHIVE
**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: William Wynn Refund |
Someone from the list forwarded my email to them and they sent me an email
back. Back in October of 2006, I attended a different kind of Corvair College
in Cloverdale, California. At that time, we installed the engine on Woody
Harris's airframe. William told us he would send us a copy of the
installation manual for free. Well, he held true to his word. They refunded
my money
for my order and sent the book out. I thought that was great. Now if I could
just make a decision on an engine. I am tore between the O-200 and the
Corvair. I went to school in Arizona and became an ASE Certified Mechanic back
in 88. I can build either engine pretty easy. I just like the different prop
options with the O-200, but the now running 5th bearing is interesting also.
It is very hard to find a good core engine here in Oregon. California
thinks they are made of gold. I guess when I come across a core engine that I
can't refuse, that will make the decision for me. I do applaud WW for his
integrity and standing by his word!
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
In a message dated 6/11/2008 7:21:33 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
iflyul@HOTMAIL.COM writes:
William Wynn can be reached at 904-529-0006...I spoke with him last week
regarding an engine purchase. Great guy and wealth of knowledge.
____________________________________
From: LHusky@aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: William Wynn Refund
I had ordered the installation manual from WW a few weeks ago. I paid with
paypal and was waiting for the manual. Today, I got back from picking up 601
parts and found that my money had been refunded to my paypal account. I
cannot find any phone number to contact him. Anyone had the same thing happen?
Anyone have a good phone number for him?
Thanks,
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
____________________________________
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. _Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence"
on AOL Food_
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) .
arget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
p://forums.matronics.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
do not archive
I've bought a few HF digital calipers for sacrificial rough useage areas in
the plant where absolute accuracy wasn't necessay. My experience is they
are battery hogs, however if you don't use it every day, battery life may be
acceptable. One might consider a dial caliper. Cheaper and haven't bought
a battery for one yet.
Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas
<ekholmbk@lakedalelink.net>
>
> Harbor Freight has a digital caliper on sale now for $19.99. Check out
their home page.
>
> Bryan Ekholm
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Gauging Material thickness |
This is the tool for the job.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1759622&PMT4NO=44345283
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
"Hope for the best,
but prepare for the worst."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Hays" <alhays@hickoryhillfarmsheep.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 7:21 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Gauging Material thickness
> Listers,
>
> Any recommendations for the best tool for measuring the thickness of
> sheet aluminum? Inexpensive is preferred if accuracy is reasonably
> good.
>
> I don't trust my old eyes to tell the difference in thickness between
> unmarked pieces of sheet aluminum (6061-T6) without laying them on a
> flat piece of glass next to another piece of known thickness. Not
> too hard to see a piece of .032 isn't .016 but not quite so easy with
> smaller pieces of .020, 025, etc.
>
> Sorry if this seems like a dumb question but maybe my display of
> ignorance can benefit some others.
>
> Al Hays
> N5892H and N701GH reserved
>
> do not archive
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG.
7:22 AM
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Scratch, kit , and Quick Build, build time survey |
It sure is interesting comparing these numbers with the numbers on the Zenith site.
They looked low to me, until I read closely and realized that the < 500
hour build time for the 601XL standard kit was for the airframe only. The numbers
you guys are posting seem much more realistic.
Thanks and keep'em coming,
Jon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187380#187380
Message 16
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I got this excellent information from a fellow 601 builder and I pass
on the links for everyone's enlightenment (below):
For anyone using an auto-conversion engines, the technical
information on this site will be of special interest. It appears
that the ideal alternator rpm to produce near-100% power is about
6,000rpm. On typical aviation engines this occurs somewhere around
the expected redline rpm of those engines. But my engine revs much
higher in cruise. The data graphs also show alternator temperature
as a function of rpm. So just letting the alternator run
significantly faster than it needs too will have a cost in more
frequent failures due to heat.
Two other issues arise - the rotation direction of the pulley fan
blades for alternator cooling; and the material of the brushes
themselves and the rate they wear in the much drier air at altitude
vs. ground level. If I continue to use an automotive alternator,
presumably the fan rotation is correct, but if I switch to an
aviation model does it become an issue? As for the brushes, if there
is increased wear in the dry air at altitude, I'm sure it will be
amplified by excessive rpm in the alternator. So should I continue
with an automotive alternator, maybe changing brushes needs to become
a routine annual event? And alternator replacement a more frequent
event as well if the commutator is wearing...
I originally thought it strange that my automotive (rebuilt?)
alternator should only last 50 hours. But after reading this tech
stuff, I see that automotive alternators may not hold up well in this
application.
What is the experience of similar automotive engine conversions (i.e.
Subarus or others that would run about 2500-3,000 rpm in cars, but
are now cruising around 4,500-5,500 rpm most of the time). Are you
experiencing alternator failures at higher that expected rates?
Check out this link for good information if nothing else (I am not
associated with this product in any way) :
> Grant: these alternators are bulletproof in certificated aircraft
> and light. ...They are lighter, all new, not rebuilt and have taken
> the certificated world by storm. Im sure their mounting foot is
> fairly standard.
>
> http://www.plane-power.com/
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/
> lightweight_alternator.php
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator |
If you need to slow down or speed up your alternator you can always put a different
pulley on it. That said you do know who builds most of those "bullet-proof"
certified alternators that Lycoming and Cont. install don't you? They are build
by companies like Ford and GM.
[quote="grant.corriveau(at)TELUS."]I got this excellent information from a fellow
601 builder and I pass on the links for everyone's enlightenment (below):
For anyone using an auto-conversion engines, the technical information on this
site will be of special interest. It appears that the ideal alternator rpm to
produce near-100% power is about 6,000rpm. On typical aviation engines this occurs
somewhere around the expected redline rpm of those engines. But my engine
revs much higher in cruise. The data graphs also show alternator temperature
as a function of rpm. So just letting the alternator run significantly faster
than it needs too will have a cost in more frequent failures due to heat.
Two other issues arise - the rotation direction of the pulley fan blades for alternator
cooling; and the material of the brushes themselves and the rate they
wear in the much drier air at altitude vs. ground level. If I continue to use
an automotive alternator, presumably the fan rotation is correct, but if I switch
to an aviation model does it become an issue? As for the brushes, if there
is increased wear in the dry air at altitude, I'm sure it will be amplified
by excessive rpm in the alternator. So should I continue with an automotive alternator,
maybe changing brushes needs to become a routine annual event? And alternator
replacement a more frequent event as well if the commutator is wearing...
I originally thought it strange that my automotive (rebuilt?) alternator should
only last 50 hours. But after reading this tech stuff, I see that automotive
alternators may not hold up well in this application.
What is the experience of similar automotive engine conversions (i.e. Subarus or
others that would run about 2500-3,000 rpm in cars, but are now cruising around
4,500-5,500 rpm most of the time). Are you experiencing alternator failures
at higher that expected rates?
Check out this link for good information if nothing else (I am not associated with
this product in any way) :
> Grant: these alternators are bulletproof in certificated aircraft and light.
...They are lighter, all new, not rebuilt and have taken the certificated world
by storm. Im sure their mounting foot is fairly standard.
>
> http://www.plane-power.com/ (http://www.plane-power.com/)
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/lightweight_alternator.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/lightweight_alternator.php)
> [b]
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187432#187432
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Alternator |
I have over 230 hours on my Subaru powered Zodiac with no trouble with
the automotive type alternator. Most aircraft alternators are just
automotive alternators with a more extensive paper trail.
As far as alternator RPM is concerned, the RPM of the alternator will
be the same as engine RPM only if both pulleys are the same size.
Typically, the pulley on the engine is larger than the one on the
alternator so the alternator runs faster than the engine. The speed
ratio is the same as the diameter ratio. I don't know if my alternator
is the same as the original Subaru unit or if the drive ratio is the
same. It came with the engine from Stratus. The pulleys may have been
selected to give the proper RPM for the expected cruise RPM of the
engine.
On Jun 11, 2008, at 3:21 PM, Grant Corriveau wrote:
> For anyone using an auto-conversion engines, the technical
> information on this site will be of special interest. It appears
> that the ideal alternator rpm to produce near-100% power is about
> 6,000rpm. On typical aviation engines this occurs somewhere around
> the expected redline rpm of those engines. But my engine revs much
> higher in cruise. The data graphs also show alternator temperature
> as a function of rpm. So just letting the alternator run
> significantly faster than it needs too will have a cost in more
> frequent failures due to heat.
>
> Two other issues arise - the rotation direction of the pulley fan
> blades for alternator cooling; and the material of the brushes
> themselves and the rate they wear in the much drier air at altitude
> vs. ground level. If I continue to use an automotive alternator,
> presumably the fan rotation is correct, but if I switch to an
> aviation model does it become an issue? As for the brushes, if
> there is increased wear in the dry air at altitude, I'm sure it will
> be amplified by excessive rpm in the alternator. So should I
> continue with an automotive alternator, maybe changing brushes needs
> to become a routine annual event? And alternator replacement a more
> frequent event as well if the commutator is wearing...
>
> I originally thought it strange that my automotive (rebuilt?)
> alternator should only last 50 hours. But after reading this tech
> stuff, I see that automotive alternators may not hold up well in
> this application.
>
> What is the experience of similar automotive engine conversions
> (i.e. Subarus or others that would run about 2500-3,000 rpm in cars,
> but are now cruising around 4,500-5,500 rpm most of the time). Are
> you experiencing alternator failures at higher that expected rates?
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 19
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| Subject: | 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona |
I just bought a beautiful factory set of tanks from an XL that a guy parted
out. They have counter sunk senders on top of the tank and are awesome.
They still have the nice aluminum fuel filler housing on the tanks. When I
remove the fuel cap, I can get a grip inside of the housing, but cannot turn the
housing. Has anyone had to remove these and how did you do it. I do not
want to damage them. I figure there is some kind of thread lock on there, but
I
am not sure. Any help or idea's would help.
Take care,
Larry
**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona |
I should also mention that this was a factory built CZAW plane. I really
like the way they installed the senders in the plane. They fit under the skin.
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
In a message dated 6/11/2008 3:41:31 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
LHusky@aol.com writes:
I just bought a beautiful factory set of tanks from an XL that a guy parted
out. They have counter sunk senders on top of the tank and are awesome.
They still have the nice aluminum fuel filler housing on the tanks. When I
remove the fuel cap, I can get a grip inside of the housing, but cannot turn the
housing. Has anyone had to remove these and how did you do it. I do not
want to damage them. I figure there is some kind of thread lock on there, but
I
am not sure. Any help or idea's would help.
Take care,
Larry
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona |
Larry,
I made up a hardwood plug for turning the outer flange. If there is no lube on
the threaded surface they can be quite difficult to move. I used 09-00306 EZ
TURN (FUELLUBE) 5 OZ TUBE from ACS on the threads and had it in and out many
times while fitting the skins.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187486#187486
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| Subject: | corvair rod balancing tool |
Hi guys,
I haven't been on here for about 8 months. Due to financial reasons I
decided that it was the wrong time to build an airplane. I purchased a 1963
Corvair Turbo Spyder Convertible as a new project. It runs and looks great
and I'm having a blast with it.
Anyway,
I have a Corvair buddy that I'm helping rebuild his Corvair engine. We want
to balance it while it is apart. During my flight Corvair engine research, I
saw a website someplace that shows a tool that this guy built to balance
Corvair rods. He had a very detailed description and pictures. I can't find
it now. If someone knows of the website, could they please e-mail it to me?
Due to the fact that I'm on several Corvair chat groups I no longer visit
this list regularly. Please send the link directly to my e-mail.
Thanks in advance,
Dave Thompson
Dave.thompson@verizon.net
Westminster, CA
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL Fuel Tank Questiona |
LHusky(at)aol.com wrote:
> When I remove the fuel cap, I can get a grip inside of the housing, but cannot
turn the housing. Has anyone had to remove these and how did you do it.
Here's what I made to do that.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Patrick.Hoyt/601XLFuelTankFillerFix/photo#5151627062448202034
Made it out of scrap plywood and duct tape. Works great. Wish more tools were
this inexpensive...
- Pat
--------
Patrick
601XL/Corvair
N63PZ (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187509#187509
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator failure |
Well what do you know! It just goes to prove once again that we
shouldn't waste time "fixing" problems before they're properly
diagnosed and understood. Today I popped the top cowl, ready to
remove the alternator - thinking "wouldn't it be nice if it was only
a broken wire..." Only to discover that it was a broken wire!
The main output terminal eyelet was broken. I'm pretty sure this
happened when my friendly mechanic found my main terminal nut was not
completely tight and he tourqued it up for me. But at the same time
I think he bent the terminal eye back against the alternator to lie
flat (I always in stall wires with a small offset bent into the
terminal to keep the wire away from anything that could cause
chaffing). This double bending on a large terminal must have started
a crack which finally broke through completely.
My repair is now a simple re-fit of the alternator feed wire or just
the one terminal. Sweet. Not often problems pan out this way.
While I was at it I determined that my alternator drive pulley is on
the engine crankshaft end. The alternator has an equally-sized
pulley so engine rpm is basically alternator rpm, which is excellent
for my system. So my alternator research was not wasted. Now I know.
Thanks for all the helpful ideas listers,
Grant
GHTF 601HDS/CAM100
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