Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:36 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Iberplanes IGL)
2. 01:19 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
3. 03:51 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (dingfelder)
4. 12:24 PM - Homemade Tool For Pull Riveting In Tight Places (dvanlanen)
5. 03:09 PM - Re: Battery slow to take charge (jetboy)
6. 04:44 PM - Elevator cables modification (Melvin Francke)
7. 05:09 PM - Re: Elevator cables modification (Jaybannist@cs.com)
8. 05:17 PM - Re: Elevator cables modification (Juan Vega)
9. 05:49 PM - Re: Elevator cables modification (steve)
10. 07:54 PM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Robert Haskins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
After checking my tanks, I found the same problem here. My kit was made in
nov 07.
Any ideas?
--
Alberto Martin
www.iberplanes.es
Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
----------------------------------------------
Zodiac 601 XL Builder
Serial: 6-7011
Tail Kit: Finished
Wings: Not Started
Fuselage: Ordered
Engine: Jabiru 3300
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
Mine are from 4/17/08 and I don't see a problem with them. Could you post a
pic of them so I can see what you are referring to?
Jeff
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
My kit was Feb., 2006 manufacture. I understand Zenith later
started welding the threaded bung on the bottom side of the skin to
lower it. I did the countersink job as well, and was careful with the
threads. I needed more, and drove the bung down (bending the tank top
skin) with a block of wood and a mallet. Worked very well, and allowed
me to level the bung to be parallel with the top of the leading edge
skin as an extra benefit. Use great caution not to let the filler
threads gall or crossthread when installing the cap socket, it can
happen very easily with the fine threads and direct alum. to alum.
contact. I used antisieze compound after almost "sticking" one while
fitting it. I also bought Baker Seal from ACS for the final
installation, as it has antisieze properties in addition to sealing, but
still allows future removal.
Lynn Dingfelder
601XL / Corvair done -- starting to paint
Message 4
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| Subject: | Homemade Tool For Pull Riveting In Tight Places |
Recently I posted an e-mail passing along a technique from EAA Hints For Homebuilders
for pull riveting in tight places, but the technique would not work for
pulling the domed-head rivets on Zenith products unless the proper dome-shape
is somehow ground or machined into the adapter.
I came up with a cheap and easy way to create an adapter without the need to grind
or machine a custom head.
I started by determining the diameter and thread pitch of the riveter head in my
hand riveter. I then determined the drill size needed to tap a hole of the
same diameter and thread pitch. In my case, my Craftsman hand riveter had an
8mm head with 1.25mm thread pitch, requiring a 17/64" starting hole (essentially
1/4"). I then went to the hardware store and purchased an aluminum ferrule
and stop kit with a 1/4" hole (about $2). I took one of the ferrules and threaded
the hole using an 8mm x 1.25mm tap. Next I threaded the riveter head into
the ferrule, measured the remaining height of the ferrule above the top of
the riveter head, and marked that distance down from the top of the ferrule as
the lowest point for cutting off the top. Next I determined the angle I needed
to pitch the riveter away from the interfering parts (about 10 to 12 degrees),
set my band saw to this angle and cut the top off of the ferrule.
I can use this tool in the same way as the "wedge" adapter in the EAA film, inserting
a rivet and bending the mandrel to be perpendicular to the upper angled
surface of the adapter, and then pulling it with a riveter.
You may have a problem with grip length depending on the profile of your hand riveter
head. I have a low profile head, so the riveter is still able to grab
the remaining mandrel that protrudes from the top of the adapter.
I've included pictures with explanations in case anyone is interested.
Dave Van Lanen
601XL - tail nearing completion
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190142#190142
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ferrule_and_stop_kit_857.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tapping_threads_in_ferrule_135.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/riveter_head_threaded_into_ferrule_206.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/measuring_and_marking_depth_of_remaining_ferrule_175.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/marking_low_point_for_cutoff_of_ferrule_360.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/marking_approx_pitch_on_ferrule_for_cutoff_137.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cutting_off_ferrule_in_band_saw_159.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/completed_adapter_162.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/adaptor_inserted_on_rivet_with_mandrel_bent_179.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/riveter_on_mandrel_ready_to_pull_rivet_134.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Battery slow to take charge |
Grant,
Its possible the older battery has a higher internal resistance than the
new one, resulting in a lower charge rate when the same voltage is applied,
that is the newer battery takes on the available current until it tops off and
allows the second battery to catch up.
Having a DC clamp ammeter to measure each one while in circuit is the easy way
to verify, and check which battery supplies the discharge current too.
I just had to replace a VRLA car battery at 3 1/2 yrs although it holds up for
starting it lost ability to take on a full charge and I ran a discharge test and
found less than half the Amp-hours rating was stored, they can get "tired".
The Odyssey in the aircraft is 8 years old now and doing fine, I have similar AGM
types in storage applications at over 15 yrs so it depends a lot on how they
are stored, charged, discharged and heated.
The website for Enersys (previously Gates / Hawker) products is very detailed
and useful
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190167#190167
Message 6
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| Subject: | Elevator cables modification |
Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control
stick in center console.
That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom
access door) of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and
shackles on both end attachments.
This would make it easier to adjust.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Elevator cables modification |
Melvin,
I put the turnbuckle on the upper cable in the arm rest area, and attached the
other turnbuckle to the upper control horn of the elevator. I have screw attachment
of the fiberglass saddle that covers that turnbuckle, so access is real
easy.
Jay in Dallas
"Melvin Francke" <mlfrancke@charter.net> wrote:
>Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control stick
in center console.
>That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom access door)
of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and shackles on both
end attachments.
>This would make it easier to adjust.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables modification |
makes no difference. you can put anywhere it is easiest for you to service the
cable.
Juan Vega 3300
-----Original Message-----
>From: Melvin Francke <mlfrancke@charter.net>
>Sent: Jun 27, 2008 7:42 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification
>
>Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control stick
in center console.
>That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom access door)
of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and shackles on both
end attachments.
>This would make it easier to adjust.
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables modification |
I put my turnbuckles on as: The down cable is on the upper part of the
control yoke and thats easy to get to. The up cable is harder to get to
so I put the turnbuckle on the elevator control horn at the tail. To
adjust I remove the fiberglass fairing...
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: Melvin Francke
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification
Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the
control stick in center console.
That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom
access door) of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and
shackles on both end attachments.
This would make it easier to adjust.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
I didn't do a good job of describing the problem. The reason that the
caps are not flush with the skin is that the filler tubes, which are
screwed into the tanks do not screw down far enough. The filler tubes
have a beveled shoulder at the top, and the top of the tanks are not
beveled. The cap and top of the filler tube extend each extend up beyond
the outer skin
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