---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 06/27/08: 10 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:36 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Iberplanes IGL) 2. 01:19 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Afterfxllc@aol.com) 3. 03:51 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (dingfelder) 4. 12:24 PM - Homemade Tool For Pull Riveting In Tight Places (dvanlanen) 5. 03:09 PM - Re: Battery slow to take charge (jetboy) 6. 04:44 PM - Elevator cables modification (Melvin Francke) 7. 05:09 PM - Re: Elevator cables modification (Jaybannist@cs.com) 8. 05:17 PM - Re: Elevator cables modification (Juan Vega) 9. 05:49 PM - Re: Elevator cables modification (steve) 10. 07:54 PM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Robert Haskins) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:36:08 AM PST US From: "Iberplanes IGL" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel tank caps for 601XL After checking my tanks, I found the same problem here. My kit was made in nov 07. Any ideas? -- Alberto Martin www.iberplanes.es Igualada - Barcelona - Spain ---------------------------------------------- Zodiac 601 XL Builder Serial: 6-7011 Tail Kit: Finished Wings: Not Started Fuselage: Ordered Engine: Jabiru 3300 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:19:48 AM PST US From: Afterfxllc@aol.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel tank caps for 601XL Mine are from 4/17/08 and I don't see a problem with them. Could you post a pic of them so I can see what you are referring to? Jeff **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:51:40 AM PST US From: "dingfelder" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel tank caps for 601XL My kit was Feb., 2006 manufacture. I understand Zenith later started welding the threaded bung on the bottom side of the skin to lower it. I did the countersink job as well, and was careful with the threads. I needed more, and drove the bung down (bending the tank top skin) with a block of wood and a mallet. Worked very well, and allowed me to level the bung to be parallel with the top of the leading edge skin as an extra benefit. Use great caution not to let the filler threads gall or crossthread when installing the cap socket, it can happen very easily with the fine threads and direct alum. to alum. contact. I used antisieze compound after almost "sticking" one while fitting it. I also bought Baker Seal from ACS for the final installation, as it has antisieze properties in addition to sealing, but still allows future removal. Lynn Dingfelder 601XL / Corvair done -- starting to paint ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:24:58 PM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Homemade Tool For Pull Riveting In Tight Places From: "dvanlanen" Recently I posted an e-mail passing along a technique from EAA Hints For Homebuilders for pull riveting in tight places, but the technique would not work for pulling the domed-head rivets on Zenith products unless the proper dome-shape is somehow ground or machined into the adapter. I came up with a cheap and easy way to create an adapter without the need to grind or machine a custom head. I started by determining the diameter and thread pitch of the riveter head in my hand riveter. I then determined the drill size needed to tap a hole of the same diameter and thread pitch. In my case, my Craftsman hand riveter had an 8mm head with 1.25mm thread pitch, requiring a 17/64" starting hole (essentially 1/4"). I then went to the hardware store and purchased an aluminum ferrule and stop kit with a 1/4" hole (about $2). I took one of the ferrules and threaded the hole using an 8mm x 1.25mm tap. Next I threaded the riveter head into the ferrule, measured the remaining height of the ferrule above the top of the riveter head, and marked that distance down from the top of the ferrule as the lowest point for cutting off the top. Next I determined the angle I needed to pitch the riveter away from the interfering parts (about 10 to 12 degrees), set my band saw to this angle and cut the top off of the ferrule. I can use this tool in the same way as the "wedge" adapter in the EAA film, inserting a rivet and bending the mandrel to be perpendicular to the upper angled surface of the adapter, and then pulling it with a riveter. You may have a problem with grip length depending on the profile of your hand riveter head. I have a low profile head, so the riveter is still able to grab the remaining mandrel that protrudes from the top of the adapter. I've included pictures with explanations in case anyone is interested. Dave Van Lanen 601XL - tail nearing completion Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190142#190142 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/ferrule_and_stop_kit_857.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/tapping_threads_in_ferrule_135.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/riveter_head_threaded_into_ferrule_206.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/measuring_and_marking_depth_of_remaining_ferrule_175.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/marking_low_point_for_cutoff_of_ferrule_360.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/marking_approx_pitch_on_ferrule_for_cutoff_137.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/cutting_off_ferrule_in_band_saw_159.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/completed_adapter_162.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/adaptor_inserted_on_rivet_with_mandrel_bent_179.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/riveter_on_mandrel_ready_to_pull_rivet_134.jpg ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 03:09:16 PM PST US Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Battery slow to take charge From: "jetboy" Grant, Its possible the older battery has a higher internal resistance than the new one, resulting in a lower charge rate when the same voltage is applied, that is the newer battery takes on the available current until it tops off and allows the second battery to catch up. Having a DC clamp ammeter to measure each one while in circuit is the easy way to verify, and check which battery supplies the discharge current too. I just had to replace a VRLA car battery at 3 1/2 yrs although it holds up for starting it lost ability to take on a full charge and I ran a discharge test and found less than half the Amp-hours rating was stored, they can get "tired". The Odyssey in the aircraft is 8 years old now and doing fine, I have similar AGM types in storage applications at over 15 yrs so it depends a lot on how they are stored, charged, discharged and heated. The website for Enersys (previously Gates / Hawker) products is very detailed and useful Ralph -------- Ralph - CH701 / 2200a Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190167#190167 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:44:54 PM PST US From: "Melvin Francke" Subject: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control stick in center console. That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom access door) of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and shackles on both end attachments. This would make it easier to adjust. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:09:49 PM PST US From: Jaybannist@cs.com Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification Melvin, I put the turnbuckle on the upper cable in the arm rest area, and attached the other turnbuckle to the upper control horn of the elevator. I have screw attachment of the fiberglass saddle that covers that turnbuckle, so access is real easy. Jay in Dallas "Melvin Francke" wrote: >Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control stick in center console. >That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom access door) of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and shackles on both end attachments. >This would make it easier to adjust. > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:17:46 PM PST US From: Juan Vega Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification makes no difference. you can put anywhere it is easiest for you to service the cable. Juan Vega 3300 -----Original Message----- >From: Melvin Francke >Sent: Jun 27, 2008 7:42 PM >To: zenith-list@matronics.com >Subject: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification > >Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control stick in center console. >That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom access door) of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and shackles on both end attachments. >This would make it easier to adjust. > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:49:08 PM PST US From: "steve" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification I put my turnbuckles on as: The down cable is on the upper part of the control yoke and thats easy to get to. The up cable is harder to get to so I put the turnbuckle on the elevator control horn at the tail. To adjust I remove the fiberglass fairing... SW ----- Original Message ----- From: Melvin Francke To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:42 PM Subject: Zenith-List: Elevator cables modification Is there any reason why instead of putting the turnbuckle at the control stick in center console. That you could not put the turnbuckle in the center (over the bottom access door) of the cable running to the elevator and use thimbles and shackles on both end attachments. This would make it easier to adjust. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:54:14 PM PST US From: "Robert Haskins" Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel tank caps for 601XL I didn't do a good job of describing the problem. The reason that the caps are not flush with the skin is that the filler tubes, which are screwed into the tanks do not screw down far enough. The filler tubes have a beveled shoulder at the top, and the top of the tanks are not beveled. The cap and top of the filler tube extend each extend up beyond the outer skin ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message zenith-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/zenith-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.