Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:17 AM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Aerolitellc@aol.com)
2. 06:41 AM - Filling Rivet Head Holes (rbjjr)
3. 07:16 AM - Chat Room Reminder For "Digesters" (George Race)
4. 07:43 AM - Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes (LarryMcFarland)
5. 07:51 AM - Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes (Jay Maynard)
6. 08:07 AM - Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes (steve)
7. 08:34 AM - Filler (Bill Naumuk)
8. 09:19 AM - Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes (Juan Vega)
9. 09:19 AM - Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes (Juan Vega)
10. 09:36 AM - RES: [Spam] Filler (Francisco Espuny)
11. 09:52 AM - Re: Filler (Paul Mulwitz)
12. 12:29 PM - Re: Filler (LarryMcFarland)
13. 12:43 PM - Re: Need to Order Fuel Tubing (Bryan Martin)
14. 01:33 PM - Older 601XL kit (on gear) for sale: $9000 (Craig Payne)
15. 03:07 PM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (John Smith)
16. 03:23 PM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
17. 03:58 PM - Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL (Ron Lendon)
18. 05:44 PM - Trutrak vs Trio PIREP (Jim McBurney)
19. 05:58 PM - Engine cooling question? (Jeffrey J Paris)
20. 06:51 PM - Re: Filler (Bill Naumuk)
21. 07:00 PM - Re: Filler (Bill Naumuk)
22. 07:09 PM - I did it again! (Bill Naumuk)
23. 07:29 PM - Re: Filler (Paul Mulwitz)
24. 09:22 PM - Re: Engine cooling question? (n801bh@netzero.com)
25. 09:27 PM - Re: I did it again! (n801bh@netzero.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
Looking at your pics my hunch was correct... you have the skins too close to
the tank. I have the same caps you do and if you only use one row of cork on
the bottom you will have close to a 10 to 12 mm gap between the tank and
the top of the skin then you build around the filler neck with a couple of
layers of cork to make up the difference and to level out the top of the neck.
I
will be building mine in a week and it takes me 2 weeks to finish them so I
will post some pics on my web site.
You can call if you need anything else 502-644-8123
Jeff
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Filling Rivet Head Holes |
Searched for this first but found nothing so I'll apologize ahead of time if this
has already been much discussed.
Any thoughts on filling rivet holes and if so, with what? I (finally) have my
rudder complete and seeing all those holes with exposed steel in them makes we
want to fill them with something. Of course any filler would have to be non-corrosive,
permanent and paint-able.
Has anyone done this and if so with what kind of results?
Thanks
Burke Johnson
CH701
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190376#190376
Message 3
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| Subject: | Chat Room Reminder For "Digesters" |
Please join us for our Monday evening chat room starting around 8:00 PM
Eastern Time.
<http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/> http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
George
CH-701 - N73EX
ALMOST DONE
Do Not Archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes |
Hi Burke,
Wait a bit before trying to fill those holes. You've got a lot of work
ahead and the obsession with them is going to fade as you complete your
aircraft.
It's not a car and some things just don't require the type of detailing
you see in the automotive world. I'd just prime and paint after putting
the best
spacing, set uniformity and straight lines into the rivets you do use.
I never filled any of the holes and doubt you could tell from 10 feet away.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewwingrivets.jpg
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
rbjjr wrote:
>
> Searched for this first but found nothing so I'll apologize ahead of time if
this has already been much discussed.
>
> Any thoughts on filling rivet holes and if so, with what? I (finally) have my
rudder complete and seeing all those holes with exposed steel in them makes
we want to fill them with something. Of course any filler would have to be non-corrosive,
permanent and paint-able.
>
> Has anyone done this and if so with what kind of results?
>
> Thanks
>
> Burke Johnson
> CH701
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190376#190376
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes |
On Sun, Jun 29, 2008 at 09:40:29AM -0500, LarryMcFarland wrote:
> I never filled any of the holes and doubt you could tell from 10 feet away.
You certainly can't on my airplane. Yeah, up close it gets noticed, but even
then it's not objectionable. I do get the occasional comment about it, but
at Zodiac speeds, it just doesn't make much difference.
--
Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com
http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net
Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!)
AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (got it!)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes |
When I started my QBK I decided to fill the rivets with bondo. Do you know
that there are 8,432 rivets in the XL?. I did the fuselage only. It was a
waste of time. The empty holes look good as is.
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling Rivet Head Holes
>
>
> Hi Burke,
> Wait a bit before trying to fill those holes. You've got a lot of work
> ahead and the obsession with them is going to fade as you complete your
> aircraft.
> It's not a car and some things just don't require the type of detailing
> you see in the automotive world. I'd just prime and paint after putting
> the best
> spacing, set uniformity and straight lines into the rivets you do use. I
> never filled any of the holes and doubt you could tell from 10 feet away.
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewwingrivets.jpg
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> rbjjr wrote:
>>
>> Searched for this first but found nothing so I'll apologize ahead of time
>> if this has already been much discussed.
>> Any thoughts on filling rivet holes and if so, with what? I (finally)
>> have my rudder complete and seeing all those holes with exposed steel in
>> them makes we want to fill them with something. Of course any filler
>> would have to be non-corrosive, permanent and paint-able.
>> Has anyone done this and if so with what kind of results?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Burke Johnson CH701
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190376#190376
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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All-
I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making
the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of
filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to
paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it like
Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth out the
Fiberfil.
Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a
paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I
remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the tops
of the rivets while painting.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes |
a note on filling and Bonding. It is a waste of time and makes for complicationing
repairs repairs. To explain.
When I built my XL, I thought a little super fill on the wing tips would "smooth"
things out. Bob Burbee in Zephyhills advised it was not a good idea. "Just
work the metal correctly and paint the fiberglass and parts. don't fill, it
will crack and make repairs difficult" . Being that it was my first build,
I ignored him and superfilled gaps on the wings, for the exception of the left
wing,I left that with no fill.
One year later, his words haunt me, as I try to repair the strobes on the wing
tips. On the right tip I have to work around the filling, cutting it , repainting.
etc... Te other wing tip, enjoys the simplicity of a metal plane, drill
the rivet head, bang out the rivet, and voi, la, pull the metal, and you can
repair the inside of the structure to your heart's delight. DOn't fill unless
absolutely neccessary. Hats off to Bob Burbe for his words of wisdom.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: steve <notsew_evets@frontiernet.net>
>Sent: Jun 29, 2008 11:04 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling Rivet Head Holes
>
>
>When I started my QBK I decided to fill the rivets with bondo. Do you know
>that there are 8,432 rivets in the XL?. I did the fuselage only. It was a
>waste of time. The empty holes look good as is.
>
>SW
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 7:40 AM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling Rivet Head Holes
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi Burke,
>> Wait a bit before trying to fill those holes. You've got a lot of work
>> ahead and the obsession with them is going to fade as you complete your
>> aircraft.
>> It's not a car and some things just don't require the type of detailing
>> you see in the automotive world. I'd just prime and paint after putting
>> the best
>> spacing, set uniformity and straight lines into the rivets you do use. I
>> never filled any of the holes and doubt you could tell from 10 feet away.
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewwingrivets.jpg
>>
>> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>>
>> rbjjr wrote:
>>>
>>> Searched for this first but found nothing so I'll apologize ahead of time
>>> if this has already been much discussed.
>>> Any thoughts on filling rivet holes and if so, with what? I (finally)
>>> have my rudder complete and seeing all those holes with exposed steel in
>>> them makes we want to fill them with something. Of course any filler
>>> would have to be non-corrosive, permanent and paint-able.
>>> Has anyone done this and if so with what kind of results?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Burke Johnson CH701
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190376#190376
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Filling Rivet Head Holes |
a note on filling and Bonding. It is a waste of time and makes for complicationing
repairs repairs. To explain.
When I built my XL, I thought a little super fill on the wing tips would "smooth"
things out. Bob Burbee in Zephyhills advised it was not a good idea. "Just
work the metal correctly and paint the fiberglass and parts. don't fill, it
will crack and make repairs difficult" . Being that it was my first build,
I ignored him and superfilled gaps on the wings, for the exception of the left
wing,I left that with no fill.
One year later, his words haunt me, as I try to repair the strobes on the wing
tips. On the right tip I have to work around the filling, cutting it , repainting.
etc... Te other wing tip, enjoys the simplicity of a metal plane, drill
the rivet head, bang out the rivet, and voi, la, pull the metal, and you can
repair the inside of the structure to your heart's delight. DOn't fill unless
absolutely neccessary. Hats off to Bob Burbe for his words of wisdom.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: steve <notsew_evets@frontiernet.net>
>Sent: Jun 29, 2008 11:04 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling Rivet Head Holes
>
>
>When I started my QBK I decided to fill the rivets with bondo. Do you know
>that there are 8,432 rivets in the XL?. I did the fuselage only. It was a
>waste of time. The empty holes look good as is.
>
>SW
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
>To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 7:40 AM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filling Rivet Head Holes
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi Burke,
>> Wait a bit before trying to fill those holes. You've got a lot of work
>> ahead and the obsession with them is going to fade as you complete your
>> aircraft.
>> It's not a car and some things just don't require the type of detailing
>> you see in the automotive world. I'd just prime and paint after putting
>> the best
>> spacing, set uniformity and straight lines into the rivets you do use. I
>> never filled any of the holes and doubt you could tell from 10 feet away.
>> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewwingrivets.jpg
>>
>> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>>
>>
>> rbjjr wrote:
>>>
>>> Searched for this first but found nothing so I'll apologize ahead of time
>>> if this has already been much discussed.
>>> Any thoughts on filling rivet holes and if so, with what? I (finally)
>>> have my rudder complete and seeing all those holes with exposed steel in
>>> them makes we want to fill them with something. Of course any filler
>>> would have to be non-corrosive, permanent and paint-able.
>>> Has anyone done this and if so with what kind of results?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Burke Johnson CH701
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190376#190376
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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Hi,
I've been using a product from PACER glues, "FiberPoxi", code PT-45 for
gluing and filling fiberglass, wood, etc for years very succesfully in
scale
air giant models that are sometimes more stressed than full scale
airplanes
, and has never been cracked .
Epoxies are heavy, but this one is a bit lighter, flexible and very
resistant, has an usefull worktime of about 15 min, and can also be
painted
after sanded with a 400 sheet.
It=B4s also cheap and can be found in most airmodel stores.
If you need more liquid epoxy for better penetration into little
cracking,
you can use the PT-40 , also light for an epoxy, commonly used for
sheeting
with fiber fabric, and has an usefull worktime of about half an hour.
But it
easily flows down if not contained (Newton's law, our common enemy).
I've also used this products on sanded aluminium and isopor for gap
filling
and further painting and it will last in place if the surface are not
exposed to a considerable bend.
Francisco Espuny
De: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Bill Naumuk
Enviada em: domingo, 29 de junho de 2008 12:32
Para: zenith list
Assunto: [Spam] Zenith-List: Filler
All-
I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making
the
top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of filler
and
paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to paint just
the
nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
cracks
and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it like Bondo.
I'm
afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth out the Fiberfil.
Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a
paint
shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I remember
a
posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the tops of the
rivets
while painting.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
_____
Esta mensagem foi verificada pelo E-mail <http://mail.terra.com.br/>
Protegido Terra.
Atualizado em 28/06/2008
Message 11
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Hi Bill,
I too am wondering how to deal with the small gaps left on my wing
tips. One thing I am considering is to build up the fiberglass with
epoxy laden flox. This is similar to filling with bondo or similar
stuff, but instead of adding a new layer of material it actually
bonds to the composite structure and becomes part of it. The flox
will not be as easy to make beautiful, but that is not my goal. I am
more interested in providing a good surface for the air flow.
I am also planning to do a similar job on the front of my engine
cowl. After installing both the top and bottom to my plane there are
gaps in the front corners that I want to smooth over. Epoxy and flox
should do the job with possible glass cloth in areas that need larger fills.
It seems odd that the most difficult problems to fix on an "All
Metal" plane are actually fiberglass issues.
Paul
XL getting close
At 08:31 AM 6/29/2008, you wrote:
>All-
> I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of
> making the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a
> bit of filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've
> decided to paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
> I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
> cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it
> like Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth
> out the Fiberfil.
> Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab
> to a paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a
> guarantee- I remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop
> ground off the tops of the rivets while painting.
>Bill Naumuk
>Townville, Pa.
>HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
>
>
Message 12
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Hi Bill;
I think the polished 601 will look great, but I'd put paint on anything
called frontal edge surfaces. I used to clean a C-150 aluminum wings of
bugs and the juice changed
the character of the lead edges during cleaning. On my 601, the dark
blue paint cleans up much easier than aluminum and the bugs are a little
harder to notice right away.
The bugs are very noticeable on a light color like my nose cowl, but
oddly, they don't seem to collect on the rudder at all.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
I'd keep the painting in-house if possible and use an acrylic-enamel if
not a water-base urethane. It's not that hard once you get started with it.
Do have a finished aircraft before beginning paint though.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Bill Naumuk wrote:
> All-
> I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making
> the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of
> filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to
> paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
> I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
> cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it
> like Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth
> out the Fiberfil.
> Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a
> paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I
> remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the
> tops of the rivets while painting.
> Bill Naumuk
> Townville, Pa.
> HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Need to Order Fuel Tubing |
I used the 3003 3/8" OD aluminum tubing from ACS. This will work fine
for the relatively low pressure of a typical fuel system. It is
shipped coiled up, so it's easier to package and is soft enough to
bend easily without tools. I don't remember ever seeing aluminum
tubing at an auto parts store, most of the fuel tubing used in cars is
made of steel. Copper could be used I guess, but it's heavy and pretty
expensive right now and is not suitable for use with aluminum fittings.
On Jun 28, 2008, at 4:28 PM, lwhitlow wrote:
>
> All
>
> I am planning to eliminate the rubber fuel lines in the cabin. I
> want to go with metal tubing
>
> Questions
>
> 1 Which alloy is best for this?
> 2 What size? Same as the ID of the rubber tubing I'm replacing??
>
> And for the bonus round Do I get it from ACS or a quick trip the the
> aviation section of the auto parts store? [Rolling Eyes]
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Older 601XL kit (on gear) for sale: $9000 |
I've listed my other 601XL kit (vintage June 2000) on Barnstormers for
$9000. I can't squeeze two 601's and a 701 into half a hanger. Here is the
link:
http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id=256015
-- Craig
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
So what is the proper number of cork layers between the top of tank and top
leading edge skin?- How about between the bottom of tank and bottom of l
eading edge skin?
--- On Sun, 6/29/08, Aerolitellc@aol.com <Aerolitellc@aol.com> wrote:
From: Aerolitellc@aol.com <Aerolitellc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel tank caps for 601XL
Looking at your pics my hunch was correct... you have the skins too close t
o the tank. I have the same caps you do and if you only use one row of cork
on the bottom you will have close to a-10-to 12 mm -gap between the
-tank and the top of the skin then you build around the filler neck with
a couple of layers of cork to make up the difference and to level out the t
op of the neck. I will be building mine in a week and it takes me 2 weeks t
o finish them so I will post some pics on my web site.
-
You can call if you need anything else 502-644-8123
-
Jeff
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
I think if I remember correctly it was 1 layer on the bottom is all and more
at the top. In other words just as much as needed on the bottom to keep it
from touching the skins. Also make sure your vent isn't holding the tank
forward and off the spar. Like I said you can call if you like.
Jeff
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps for 601XL |
While you're waiting, take a look here and maybe get some ideas.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ron.lendon/FuelFiller
I think I was doing this sometime around the 8th month of 2007 if you want to look
it up in the kitlog.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
Corvair Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190458#190458
Message 18
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| Subject: | Trutrak vs Trio PIREP |
Hello, list,
I'm agonizing over my decision for a single axis autopilot/backup T&B in an
all-electric panel. Does anyone have any experience, yay or nay, with
either the Trutrak Pictoral Pilot or the Trio EZPilot. If so, please share
it with me, either on this list or via direct email.
Thanks
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
Message 19
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| Subject: | Engine cooling question? |
Dear Bud,
A couple of months ago we were talking and in our conversation you mentioned something
about adding a piece of aluminum around the bottom edge of the lower cowling
outlet in a Zenith CH601XLif I am not mistaken. With that in mind, do
you have a picture of the installation? And does the addition of that "lip"
change the cooling ability of the Jabiru 3300 FWF cowling and Kit?
I mention this because I am still having some higher CHT temps on the #2 and #4
cylinders than I would like to improve my cooling of the engine. I would be
very interested in what you have found. Thank you for your time and consideration
in this matter.
Cheers,
Jeff Paris
Zentith Zodiac CH601XL Jab 3300 Dynon EFIS Xerion Avionics engine management 204
hours TTEAF
Also 940 hours into Build of a Europa Classic Monowheel A012
Message 20
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Larry-
Aye, bucko, but the question was, what do you use for filler that will
stick and stay stuck on those painted areas? I won't be needing more than
what it takes to clean up the edges of the outboard tips and stab tips.
Purely for vanity's sake.
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filler
>
> Hi Bill;
> I think the polished 601 will look great, but I'd put paint on anything
> called frontal edge surfaces. I used to clean a C-150 aluminum wings of
> bugs and the juice changed
> the character of the lead edges during cleaning. On my 601, the dark blue
> paint cleans up much easier than aluminum and the bugs are a little harder
> to notice right away.
> The bugs are very noticeable on a light color like my nose cowl, but
> oddly, they don't seem to collect on the rudder at all.
>
> http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezfrontright.gif
>
> I'd keep the painting in-house if possible and use an acrylic-enamel if
> not a water-base urethane. It's not that hard once you get started with
> it.
> Do have a finished aircraft before beginning paint though.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
>
> Bill Naumuk wrote:
>> All-
>> I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of making the
>> top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit of filler
>> and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to paint just
>> the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
>> I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
>> cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it like
>> Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth out the
>> Fiberfil.
>> Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to a
>> paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I
>> remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the tops
>> of the rivets while painting.
>> Bill Naumuk
>> Townville, Pa.
>> HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
>
>
>
Message 21
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Paul-
You're in close to the same situation as me.I don't have gaps, but
the "Crinkles" left from trying to form the aluminum around the
fiberglass. You're also basically talking about the same stuff as I'm
thinking of using. It's Bondo with fiberglass threads mixed in. It'll
never come off, but once it sets up it's like steel.
I think I'm going to talk to a guy I went to high school with and
owns a body shop. He's only 10 minutes away so hopefully I can get him
to do the job without grinding my rivets off.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Filler
Hi Bill,
I too am wondering how to deal with the small gaps left on my wing
tips. One thing I am considering is to build up the fiberglass with
epoxy laden flox. This is similar to filling with bondo or similar
stuff, but instead of adding a new layer of material it actually bonds
to the composite structure and becomes part of it. The flox will not be
as easy to make beautiful, but that is not my goal. I am more
interested in providing a good surface for the air flow.
I am also planning to do a similar job on the front of my engine cowl.
After installing both the top and bottom to my plane there are gaps in
the front corners that I want to smooth over. Epoxy and flox should do
the job with possible glass cloth in areas that need larger fills.
It seems odd that the most difficult problems to fix on an "All Metal"
plane are actually fiberglass issues.
Paul
XL getting close
At 08:31 AM 6/29/2008, you wrote:
All-
I'm polishing 95%+ of my project, but don't see any way of
making the top skin/tip fiberglass rib juncture look good without a bit
of filler and paint. Not because of gaps, but "Crinkles".I've decided to
paint just the nose skin and tips of the outboards and stab.
I've seen projects that used regular Bondo and the damned stuff
cracks and comes out. Fiberfil sticks great, but you can't work it like
Bondo. I'm afraid of grinding off aluminum trying to smooth out the
Fiberfil.
Any alternatives, or should I just haul my outboards and stab to
a paint shop and let them deal with it? Not that that's a guarantee- I
remember a posting many moons ago where a paint shop ground off the tops
of the rivets while painting.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
Message 22
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All-
Think you'll get fewer "Blonde moments" as time goes on? Not in my
case. You just can't teach an old dog to keep from pissing in the
cockpit.
I'm finish rigging the control cables prior to riveting the aft
section of the fuse, so I cut two long ones for the rudders and two
shorter ones for the elevator. I attach the elevator cables.
Fill in the blanks.
ACS loves me.
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS Systems/Corvair 90%
Message 23
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Hi Bill,
Actually, Bondo is a polyester resin based product. It will shrink
with time. The stuff I would prefer is epoxy binder holding flox.
I learned about flox and its use by purchasing a composite training
kit from Aircraft Spruce. After starting on my FWF I learned there
was a great deal of composite work needed in the kit from US Jabiru
and the instructions seemed to assume the builder already is an
expert at composite work. This would be true if we just finished
building a Jabiru plane like they kind they sell, but I'm afraid my
own composite knowledge was sorely lacking.
Have fun,
Paul
XL getting close
At 06:57 PM 6/29/2008, you wrote:
>Paul-
> You're in close to the same situation as me.I don't have gaps,
> but the "Crinkles" left from trying to form the aluminum around the
> fiberglass. You're also basically talking about the same stuff as
> I'm thinking of using. It's Bondo with fiberglass threads mixed in.
> It'll never come off, but once it sets up it's like steel.
> I think I'm going to talk to a guy I went to high school with
> and owns a body shop. He's only 10 minutes away so hopefully I can
> get him to do the job without grinding my rivets off.
> Bill
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Engine cooling question? |
I know this doesn't entirely transfer to your application but here is th
e "lip" I needed to cure my heating issues. It is a rather lengthy video
so get a beer or two and let it play..
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7272451917550730841&hl=en
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com> wrote:
cite.com>
Dear Bud,
A couple of months ago we were talking and in our conversation you menti
oned something about adding a piece of aluminum around the bottom edge o
f the lower cowling outlet in a Zenith CH601XLif I am not mistaken. Wi
th that in mind, do you have a picture of the installation? And does th
e addition of that "lip" change the cooling ability of the Jabiru 3300 F
WF cowling and Kit?
I mention this because I am still having some higher CHT temps on the #2
and #4 cylinders than I would like to improve my cooling of the engine.
I would be very interested in what you have found. Thank you for yo
ur time and consideration in this matter.
Cheers,
Jeff Paris
Zentith Zodiac CH601XL Jab 3300 Dynon EFIS Xerion Avionics engine manage
ment 204 hours TTEAF
Also 940 hours into Build of a Europa Classic Monowheel A012
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Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: I did it again! |
I HATE that when it happens.. :<).
do not archive. and of course I have never made a simple mistake.. <G>
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net> wrote:
All- Think you'll get fewer "Blonde moments" as time goes on? Not in
my case. You just can't teach an old dog to keep from pissing in the coc
kpit. I'm finish rigging the control cables prior to riveting the aft
section of the fuse, so I cut two long ones for the rudders and two sho
rter ones for the elevator. I attach the elevator cables. Fill in the
blanks. ACS loves me.Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
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