Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:04 AM - Hinge Lube (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
2. 10:42 AM - Re: Hinge Lube (Roger Lee)
3. 11:12 AM - 701 list (Alvin Rose)
4. 12:29 PM - Re: 701 list (Craig Payne)
5. 01:24 PM - Re: Re: Fuels (Bryan Martin)
6. 02:42 PM - Re: Re: Hinge Lube (Juan Vega)
7. 02:53 PM - Re: Re: XL canopy open (Jay Maynard)
8. 04:04 PM - Re: Re: Fuels (Dave Austin)
9. 07:18 PM - cutting long cuts of aluminum (Darrell Haas)
10. 07:40 PM - Re: cutting long cuts of aluminum (Craig Payne)
11. 08:10 PM - Re: cutting long cuts of aluminum ()
12. 10:42 PM - Re: cutting long cuts of aluminum (TxDave)
Message 1
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the Cessna manual recommends graphite on piano hinges. i once found some white
graphite but have not seen it in a long time. the problem with using it is getting
it into the joints. there is a new style that goes on wet in a spray then
the propellent dries.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
BOBBY
N131BP
601 XL
Message 2
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Hi Bobby,
You might try using the heavy duty silicone spray. It is in a can with one of the
small red hose nozzles. It is very easy to use on door hinges rod ends or other
moving joints. You can use it more often if need be because it is easy to
use. It's clear and so long as you don't over use it doesn't make a mess.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193791#193791
Message 3
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Hi Guys
Is there a list for the 701/801 owners..I do not see much on
this list for the 701 any more.
Alvin Rose
Message 4
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Sure is. Go to http://www.matronics.com/subscription, hover the cursor over
"Move Tool Up" to make the end of the checkbox list visible and you will see
"Zenith701801". Carefully follow the instructions on the right side of the
screen to subscribe.
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alvin Rose
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 12:09 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 list
Hi Guys
Is there a list for the 701/801 owners..I do not see much on
this list for the 701 any more.
Alvin Rose
Message 5
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A little bit of water will dissolve in the gasohol. A little bit more
will cause the water/alcohol mixture to settle out, leaving a lower
octane gasoline floating above it. I don't know exactly how much water
it takes to initiate the separation but I do know that 10 percent
water mixed with E10 will do it. This is the standard test for ethanol
in gasoline. I suspect it takes a whole lot less than 10% water to
cause the separation.
So any water in the station's tank will either end up in your gas tank
or it will settle out on the bottom of their tank along with the
alcohol and you will be filling up with low octane gas. In either
case, it won't do good things to your engine.
On Jul 18, 2008, at 9:58 PM, Jeyoung65@aol.com wrote:
> What will happen if the service station has water in it (most do)
> and the fuel has ethanol in it, how much water will the 10% ethanol
> absorb? Will this amount of water and ethanol cause a problem with
> engine operation?
> Jerry of Ga
> In a message dated 7/18/2008 4:02:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, amyvega2005@earthlink.net
> writes:
> >
>
> I Ethanol mixes with water, why could you not pour Water into fuel
> with Ethanol and leach the alcohol out of the fuel? It goes with
> the thought that the way to check for Ethanol is to add water to
> fuel in a marked fuel beaker and check after time if the level of
> water increased, indicating Ethonal in Fuel.
>
> Juan
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 6
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try also Jigga Loo spray, very popular with the WWII airplane guys at my field.
guy flys a p51 and a Harvard let me try it, and it works well. Buy at Home
Depot.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Roger Lee <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Jul 19, 2008 1:39 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Hinge Lube
>
>
>Hi Bobby,
>
>You might try using the heavy duty silicone spray. It is in a can with one of
the small red hose nozzles. It is very easy to use on door hinges rod ends or
other moving joints. You can use it more often if need be because it is easy to
use. It's clear and so long as you don't over use it doesn't make a mess.
>
>--------
>Roger Lee
>Tucson, Az.
>Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
>Rotax Service Center
>520-574-1080
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193791#193791
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: XL canopy open |
On Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at 06:24:54AM -0700, Gig Giacona wrote:
> A.F.Rupp(at)att.net wrote:
> > A while back, I believe it was Jay Maynard, posted some pictures of the
> > new canopy for 601's and that had what looked to be a very good latching
> > mechanism with the lock handle being on the seat back between the two
> > seats and torque tubes out to the sides. It also appeared to be a pull
> > down latch. Be interesting to see it when it comes out.
> > It looks like a good retrofit. Maybe Jay could elaborate.
> I got to see Jay plane when he visited KELD. To say the latching system is
> different is an understatement. I liked it and it would have several fewer
> failure modes. I could see the inside of the mechanism but I did like the
> outcome.
What Gig didn't mention, but a quick look at my airplane will tell you, is
that mine has the old-style canopy but the new-style canopy latch. I like it
a heck of a lot: as Gig says, it has a lot fewer failure modes.
The latch consists of a hook sticking up through the top cabin side
longeron that engages a bolt installed such that the head sticks out a ways
from the side of the canopy bow. There's one hook on each side, and they're
attached to a rod that runs across the top of the seat back. The outside
canopy latch handle is attached to the left end of the rod; the inside latch
handle is attached to the center of the rod and sticks out between the
seats.
It's easy to close securely. What I do is lower the canopy so the bolt necks
are sitting on top of the hook (on my airplane, this usually takes a little
of pushing to one side), pulling the handle up just enough to allow the
canopy to lower to where the hooks can engage the bolts, then pushing the
handle back down fully to engage. Because of the open design, it's easy to
verify that the hooks are fully and properly engaged, either by sight or
feel.
I think it's a major improvement over the previous system, which has just a
hint of overengineering about it.
> As far as retro fitting the system, I'd really like to see plans available
> for it.
It should be possible, but I don't know how much rework would be needed on
the canopy frame. The cabin side should be dead simple. Next time I'm out at
the airport with not much to do, I'll try to get pictures, especially of the
rod mounting.
--
Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com
http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net
Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!)
AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (got it!)
Message 8
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It's interesting that we've been advised by someone in the industry that
the wholesalers add the ethanol to the truckloads. It isn't added
earlier due to the water absorbsion problem. So guess what happens if
there is water in the truck or in the retailers' tanks!
Then when you go up to 8000 ft and the fuel in your tank gets colder
that water can separate and collect at the bottom of your fuel tank.
I don't want to go there.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912, Spitfire Mk VIII
Message 9
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| Subject: | cutting long cuts of aluminum |
After the Arlington Fly-in I'm pumped to get back to work on my 601XL.
What's the easiest way to cut the long sheets of aluminum like your nose
piece on the rudder? The aviation tin snips seem to make the edges ripple.
Of course it might not be the snips. It could be the operator. Any advice?
Darrell Haas
601 XL, fuse and rudder
N723DD
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | cutting long cuts of aluminum |
Have you tried doing a first cut about a quarter of an inch out from the
final line and then doing a final cut along the line. Also if you are doing
a long straight cut try the Olfa P-800 knife and a straight edge:
http://www.ch601.org/tools/olfa.htm
http://www.olfa.com/UtilityKnivesDetail.aspx?C=35
<http://www.olfa.com/UtilityKnivesDetail.aspx?C=35&Id=58> &Id=58
-- Craig
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Haas
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 8:14 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: cutting long cuts of aluminum
After the Arlington Fly-in I'm pumped to get back to work on my 601XL.
What's the easiest way to cut the long sheets of aluminum like your nose
piece on the rudder? The aviation tin snips seem to make the edges ripple.
Of course it might not be the snips. It could be the operator. Any advice?
Darrell Haas
601 XL, fuse and rudder
N723DD
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: cutting long cuts of aluminum |
I've found that the best way is to lay a straight edge down, clamp it
tightly, and run a utility knife or an Olfa blade about a dozen times
down the straightedge. If you do this right at a table edge, you just
bend the scored aluminum down, and it will snap cleanly. I use a fairly
light touch to keep the blade from wandering, and score it twenty times.
when it snaps off, a light touch with the file and you have a nice,
dressed straight edge.
Paul Rodriguez
601XL/Corvair
----- Original Message -----
From: Darrell Haas<mailto:darrellhaas@gmail.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 9:14 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: cutting long cuts of aluminum
After the Arlington Fly-in I'm pumped to get back to work on my
601XL. What's the easiest way to cut the long sheets of aluminum like
your nose piece on the rudder? The aviation tin snips seem to make the
edges ripple. Of course it might not be the snips. It could be the
operator. Any advice?
Darrell Haas
601 XL, fuse and rudder
N723DD
do not archive
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Zenith-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: cutting long cuts of aluminum |
I'll agree with the other posters. The Olfa P800 is a great tool. I got mine here:
http://olfablades.stores.yahoo.net/5012.html
Attached are a couple of photos to illustrate its use.
If you haven't done so, I strongly recommend the Scratchbuilding Basics DVD from
homebuilthelp.com. Mark and Dave demonstrate the Olfa knife technique along
with lots of other great building tips.
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193882#193882
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/olfa_837.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/olfa2_259.jpg
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