Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:42 AM - Re: Jab 3300 airbox location (Juan Vega)
2. 07:05 AM - Re: Jab 3300 airbox location (JAPhillipsGA@aol.com)
3. 11:56 AM - Canopy Latch Warning Light (John Reinking)
4. 11:58 AM - Re: Crash (Clive Richards)
5. 12:32 PM - Re: Canopy Latch Warning Light (Leo Gates)
6. 12:38 PM - Re: Jab 3300 airbox location (rgeese)
7. 01:49 PM - Re: Jab 3300 airbox location (chris Sinfield)
8. 03:32 PM - New 601/650 Builders video from HomebuiltHELP (Jon Croke)
9. 03:52 PM - Panel done (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
10. 06:42 PM - Gas spring mounts? (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
11. 07:24 PM - One idea for retaining gas springs (Dr. Andrew Elliott)
12. 07:52 PM - Re: Gas spring mounts? (Paul Mulwitz)
13. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Jab 3300 airbox location (Juan Vega)
14. 08:13 PM - Re: Jab 3300 airbox location (rgeese)
15. 08:14 PM - Re: Canopy Latch Warning Light (Juan Vega)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 airbox location |
wait until the engine gets to your place then put the air box in its proper place.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: chris Sinfield <chris_sinfield@yahoo.com.au>
>Sent: Aug 16, 2008 11:23 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Jab 3300 airbox location
>
>
>Hi all
>I am installing the Airbox onto the Zodiac XL firewall. Since I don't have a Jab3300
engine yet and the installation paperwork said to line up the air exit
level with the inlet to the Bing Carb I have a problem.
>
>There are no firewall measurements in the paperwork to locate this airbox? I have
the engine mount and can fit it between that on the RH side, but how far down
from the horizontal stiffener? How exact does it have to be L/R up ?down from
the carb? the DVD is not that clear on measurements.
>
>Pete Is this something that could be added to the 601 FWF paperwork
>
>Thanks
>Chris.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199035#199035
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 airbox location |
I agree with Juan. This because you want to align the intake of the Bing carb
level with the outlet of the air box. That way you have no weird curves in
the hose. So you need to mount the engine before the airbox. Best of luck, Bill
**************
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
Message 3
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| Subject: | Canopy Latch Warning Light |
Reading all the discussions regarding the latch release letting go in
flight, what about something like this?
Wondering if a simple electrical warning light system would help to warn
the pilot if the, or if both, canopy latches were not properly latched?
Something simple like a simple "deadman-type switch that would flash
red on the panel when the latch is unlocked and green when the latch is
properly closed.
Comments appreciated guys.
Message 4
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Jay glad you are both ok
We have latches as designed by the Late Ed Walanda
which are spring loaded in a similar position to the new latches & easily
visible so reclosing the canopy would not affect the latched side I believe
the new latches are connected by a ridged bar will pulling the canopy closed
not actually release the latched side ?. We must admit to actually leaving
one side unlatched once having reopened the canopy & being distracted not
rechecking but were able to reclose on reaching circuit height & reducing
power. I wonder however how much the Gas strut pressure will affect the
ability to reclose, ours at the time had lost pressure & we have just
replaced. so will think out your idea to fit a safety strap.
Clive
do not archive
Rays 601HD 233 Hrs 701 kit on order
----- Original Message -----
From: <jaybannist@cs.com>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:28 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Crash
>
> OK, a few facts from the horses mouth:
>
> As most of you know, I have just completed a Zodiac CH 601XL (Lil
> Bruiser). Both me and the insurance company wanted me to get at least an
> hour in make and model before I solo my airplane. I discovered a new
> service at McKinney Airport (TKI), for training and rental in a 601XLi.
> This was a familiarization flight in a nearly new AMD built 601XLi. The
> airplane originally had the old style canopy latches. The owner was not
> satisfied with that mechanism and had the factory retrofit the new style
> latches.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Latch Warning Light |
I lost the canopy in flight on my 601 HDS because, due to distraction, I
forgot to engage the positive locks I had installed. No change in
flight characteristics at all, just VERY windy.
I have "closed the barn door" by installing two normally closed micro
switches, that open when the latches are locked. Switches closed, latch
not locked, they turn on a red annunciator light on my center console,
"Canopy Not Locked."
--
Leo Gates
N601Z - CH601HDS TDO
Rotax 912UL
John Reinking wrote:
> Reading all the discussions regarding the latch release letting go in
> flight, what about something like this?
>
> Wondering if a simple electrical warning light system would help to
> warn the pilot if the, or if both, canopy latches were not properly
> latched? Something simple like a simple "deadman-type switch that
> would flash red on the panel when the latch is unlocked and green when
> the latch is properly closed.
>
> Comments appreciated guys.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 airbox location |
I just finished mounting my airbox. I had the Jab 3300 installed at the time, but
I can tell you that the location is pretty well determined. Vertically, mine
is as close to the horizontal stiffener as possible. Remember that the control
cable has to come through just below the stiffener, keeping the cable as close
to the stiffener as possible. Horizontally, the bottom right (facing the firewall)
flange of the airbox overlapped the diagonal stiffener about 1/2 inch
or less, which I cut off. I am using the 2-1/4" radiator 90 angle hose that was
suggested a while back. Everything didn't line up perfectly between the carb
an box, but really close. It was as close as I could get it. I'm very happy
with the way everything looks.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199115#199115
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 airbox location |
Was that the fiberglass 90 deg piece??
Chris
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199124#199124
Message 8
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| Subject: | New 601/650 Builders video from HomebuiltHELP |
We are ready for delivery of another volume for the Building your
601XL/CH650 series
Fuselage Part 3 (601XL style canopy) for photos and info see:
http://homebuilthelp.com/CH601XL/fuselage3.htm
In this, the last part of the fuselage series, we demonstrate the
building of the canopy, from start to finish. I am extra proud of this
particular production as I had the expertise of Gus Warren to tap for
this slightly challenging part of the aircraft construction. I think
you will find that the sequence of building steps he demonstrates
becomes one the more useful aspects of watching before you build. Gus
has built probably more canopies for this plane than any other person.
He does this professionally, and his website can be found at
www.FlywithGus.com
We plan to offer an alternate build video for Fuselage Part 3 when the
CH650 canopy is in production shipment, so that you can choose the
appropriate video title for your project. Also, we plan a canopy
retrofit video, as soon as this is feasible.
The Wings and Horizontal Tail volumes will be out shortly (weeks) to
wrap up the majority of the 601/CH650 build collection.
Thank you for your patience!
Jon
Message 9
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Just finished cutting my panel... now time to start wiring it.
_http://www.project601xl.com/Panel.html_
(http://www.project601xl.com/Panel.html)
Jeff
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
Message 10
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| Subject: | Gas spring mounts? |
Gang:
I have had some trouble trying to drill the 1/16" holes in the 5/16"
steel mounting pins for the canopy gas springs. On the first one I
tried, with a brand new 1/16" bit, using lubricant and clearing the hole
regularly, the bit broke off about 2/3 of the way through and could not
be extracted. Not good. IMHO, it would have been a lot smarter to
drill the pins before welding the parts, but they came from the factory
solid.
Before I completely screw up both my factory-assembled canopy frame and
the factory-installed fuselage mounts, I would like to get some ideas
from successful drillers as to how they managed it.
My current thought is to go up quite a few drill sizes, maybe all the
way to #40, and use a larger cotter pin.
Are there other good ways to secure the gas springs on the pins?
Thanks,
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (registered)
601XL/TD, Corvair, finishing...
Message 11
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| Subject: | One idea for retaining gas springs |
I found 5/16" split collars at McMaster-Carr that
seem like they ought to work for retaining the gas
spring ends. Mc-C is at
www.mcmaster.com
and the product number is 9961K14.
Any comments??
Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
N601GE (registered)
601XL/TD, Corvair, finishing...
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Gas spring mounts? |
Hi Andy,
I think going to a 3/32 hole and cotter pin would be no
problem. That still leaves the issue of removing the remaining drill
bit point. Your local hardware store probably has lots of special
tools and good advice about how to remove the stuck drill.
There are several kinds of drills you can use for making the required
holes. A "High Speed" steel bit will be less likely to break than a
cobalt drill, but it won't hold its edge as long.
Good luck,
Paul
XL getting close
do not archive
At 06:41 PM 8/17/2008, you wrote:
>Gang:
>
>I have had some trouble trying to drill the 1/16" holes in the 5/16"
>steel mounting pins for the canopy gas springs. On the first one I
>tried, with a brand new 1/16" bit, using lubricant and clearing the
>hole regularly, the bit broke off about 2/3 of the way through and
>could not be extracted. Not good. IMHO, it would have been a lot
>smarter to drill the pins before welding the parts, but they came
>from the factory solid.
>
>Before I completely screw up both my factory-assembled canopy frame
>and the factory-installed fuselage mounts, I would like to get some
>ideas from successful drillers as to how they managed it.
>
>My current thought is to go up quite a few drill sizes, maybe all
>the way to #40, and use a larger cotter pin.
>
>Are there other good ways to secure the gas springs on the pins?
>
>Thanks,
>Andy Elliott, Mesa, AZ
>N601GE (registered)
>601XL/TD, Corvair, finishing...
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 airbox location |
do what you want, keep in mind that the airbox is not predetermined as there are
two different versions of airboxes floating out there, and the distance to the
carb is different on both. Keep the excitement in your pants and wait for
the engine to show up , then put it on, but then again do what you want, its your
kit, and your money.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: rgeese <rgeese1@columbus.rr.com>
>Sent: Aug 17, 2008 3:38 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Jab 3300 airbox location
>
>
>I just finished mounting my airbox. I had the Jab 3300 installed at the time,
but I can tell you that the location is pretty well determined. Vertically, mine
is as close to the horizontal stiffener as possible. Remember that the control
cable has to come through just below the stiffener, keeping the cable as close
to the stiffener as possible. Horizontally, the bottom right (facing the
firewall) flange of the airbox overlapped the diagonal stiffener about 1/2 inch
or less, which I cut off. I am using the 2-1/4" radiator 90 angle hose that
was suggested a while back. Everything didn't line up perfectly between the carb
an box, but really close. It was as close as I could get it. I'm very happy
with the way everything looks.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199115#199115
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Jab 3300 airbox location |
No, it is a black rubber 2-1/4" 90 degree elbow. Check it out here:
www.intakehoses.com CODE: 90L225
Someone on the forum suggested this a couple of years ago to eliminate the turbulence
that SCAT tube can cause. The only problem with it is that the intake
on the carb is a tad smaller than 2-1/4". I solved this by rubber cementing a
little strip from an old truck tire inner tube that I had laying around inside
to lessen the diameter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199201#199201
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Latch Warning Light |
how about just checking the canopy before you take off while holding short, they
pretty much fail if not latched prior to take of, if properly built. Another
gismo to play with, but we are not building 747s.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Reinking <reinkings@comcast.net>
>Sent: Aug 17, 2008 2:54 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy Latch Warning Light
>
>Reading all the discussions regarding the latch release letting go in flight,
what about something like this?
>
>Wondering if a simple electrical warning light system would help to warn the pilot
if the, or if both, canopy latches were not properly latched? Something
simple like a simple "deadman-type switch that would flash red on the panel when
the latch is unlocked and green when the latch is properly closed.
>
>Comments appreciated guys.
>
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