Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:29 AM - Extra stuff for sale (fred sanford)
2. 01:32 AM - Re: Extra stuff for sale (Roger Pritchard)
3. 08:15 AM - Re: Extra stuff for sale (JohnDRead@AOL.COM)
4. 10:24 AM - Re: XL Nose Gear Strut: 4130 vs Plastic ??? (Grant Corriveau)
5. 10:40 AM - Re: Carpet and Upholstery (John Swartout)
6. 10:45 AM - Re: XL Nose Gear Strut: 4130 vs Plastic ??? (Paul Mulwitz)
7. 10:58 AM - Re: Carpet and Upholstery (Paul Mulwitz)
8. 11:50 AM - Re: Carpet and Upholstery (Clyde Barcus)
9. 12:17 PM - Chat Room Reminder (George Race)
10. 01:58 PM - Zodiac Plans For Sale (Andrew Hinsdale)
11. 02:35 PM - For those who responded to my "extra stuff for sale" (fred sanford)
12. 02:51 PM - Drilling canopy (Bill Steer)
13. 03:21 PM - Re: Carpet and Upholstery (Bryan Martin)
14. 04:17 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (annken100)
15. 04:23 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (Juan Vega)
16. 04:34 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (Bill Naumuk)
17. 04:41 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (Paul Mulwitz)
18. 06:57 PM - Chat room! (4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net (Rich Simmons))
19. 07:02 PM - Cable Swaging tool (4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net (Rich Simmons))
20. 07:23 PM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (Paul Mulwitz)
21. 07:46 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (John Smith)
22. 07:46 PM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (Bryan Martin)
23. 09:59 PM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (Gary Gower)
24. 10:13 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (Gary Gower)
Message 1
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Subject: | Extra stuff for sale |
Have finished my two planes, and have a few parts left over. Useful
things that other builders might like at half price or less:
new airspeed indicator
new elt
vsi
alumiprep
cleco's
rivet fan
master contacter
Canyon surfing DVD
etc
Pictures at:
http://www.sonar100.com/sale.html
Fred Sanford N9701 N9601
do not archive
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Extra stuff for sale |
Fred,
-
I am interested in the ELT.- Please email or call at 603-496-7542.
-
Thank you,
-
Roger
--- On Mon, 9/15/08, fred sanford <sonar1@cox.net> wrote:
From: fred sanford <sonar1@cox.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Extra stuff for sale
Have finished my two planes, and have a few parts left over. Useful
things that other builders might like at half price or less:
new airspeed indicator
new elt
vsi
alumiprep
cleco's
rivet fan
master contacter
Canyon surfing DVD
etc
Pictures at:
http://www.sonar100.com/sale.html
Fred Sanford N9701 N9601
do not archive
=0A=0A=0A
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Extra stuff for sale |
Hi Fred;
Nice job on the planes, I am working on a similar pair. I would
like the ELT and the Clecos please. do not archive.
John Read
Phone: 303-648-3261
Fax: 303-648-3262
Cell: 719-494-4567
**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog,
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: XL Nose Gear Strut: 4130 vs Plastic ??? |
Is there a plan online somewhere of what the new lower bearing looks
like? I've never been satisfied with the feel of my rudder. The
centering mechanism causes it to be very heavy. There's got to be a
better way...
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Carpet and Upholstery |
Speaking of seats, I'm at the stage where I need to buy seat cushions, backs
and coverings for my 801. Ten years ago, when I bought the kit, seats
weren't something I gave a lot of thought to. Everytime I've researched
foam and upholstery sources, and read magazine articles about the subject,
I've been HORRIFIED that foam and cloth should cost about $350 per seat and
up. I think I can buy a nice La-Z-Boy recliner for less, although it would
be a little too heavy for my airplane. Is there a place to buy decent seats
for $200 each, or do I need to lose another thick layer of innocence and
pony up for the best seats I can find (Oregon Aero, etc.)?
John
On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 12:16 PM, Jeff <jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net>wrote:
> >
>
> I did this recently and just used Velcro. It allows the Upholstery to be
> easily removed to get behind the seats and have full access to the center
> console. It also make it easier for cleaning ....
>
> Jeff Davidson
> CH601-HD/3300A on the second 90 percent of building ....
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: XL Nose Gear Strut: 4130 vs Plastic ??? |
Hi Grant,
I also felt the lower bearing was too tight on the nose gear
column. I decided to enlarge the opening in the bearing with a
Dremel tool and sanding drum to make the column rotate more easily.
Paul
XL getting close
At 10:23 AM 9/15/2008, you wrote:
>Is there a plan online somewhere of what the new lower bearing looks
>like? I've never been satisfied with the feel of my rudder. The
>centering mechanism causes it to be very heavy. There's got to be a
>better way...
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Carpet and Upholstery |
Hi John,
I'm planning on making my own seats for my Zodiac. I got some great
foam on the net for less than $100 and a full upholstery leather hide
from eBay for around $70. I also bought a nice sewing machine
(Viking/Husqvarna) recommended by the nice sales lady to sew leather
for around $300 (including about an hour of individual instruction on
how to thread and operate the machine), and an automotive upholstery
book from Amazon.
I know sewing is a skill most airplane builders (including me) don't
come with. However, keep in mind most 10 year old girls can make
their own clothes using the same equipment. It can't be that hard to
make some satisfactory seats.
Good luck,
Paul
XL getting close
At 10:39 AM 9/15/2008, you wrote:
>Speaking of seats, I'm at the stage where I need to buy seat
>cushions, backs and coverings for my 801. Ten years ago, when I
>bought the kit, seats weren't something I gave a lot of thought
>to. Everytime I've researched foam and upholstery sources, and read
>magazine articles about the subject, I've been HORRIFIED that foam
>and cloth should cost about $350 per seat and up. I think I can buy
>a nice La-Z-Boy recliner for less, although it would be a little too
>heavy for my airplane. Is there a place to buy decent seats for
>$200 each, or do I need to lose another thick layer of innocence and
>pony up for the best seats I can find (Oregon Aero, etc.)?
>
>John
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Carpet and Upholstery |
John,
I am using foam from the seats of a junk car, I stripped the seats and
kept the old upholstery for a pattern, the foam is in great shape and I
will trim it down if necessary. Recently, I reupholstered my Jet Skis
with marine vinyl for about $35.00 per Ski, I will probably use the same
material for my seats.
Clyde Barcus
601XL----- Original Message -----
From: John Swartout
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Carpet and Upholstery
Speaking of seats, I'm at the stage where I need to buy seat cushions,
backs and coverings for my 801. Ten years ago, when I bought the kit,
seats weren't something I gave a lot of thought to. Everytime I've
researched foam and upholstery sources, and read magazine articles about
the subject, I've been HORRIFIED that foam and cloth should cost about
$350 per seat and up. I think I can buy a nice La-Z-Boy recliner for
less, although it would be a little too heavy for my airplane. Is there
a place to buy decent seats for $200 each, or do I need to lose another
thick layer of innocence and pony up for the best seats I can find
(Oregon Aero, etc.)?
John
On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 12:16 PM, Jeff
<jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net> wrote:
<jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net>
I did this recently and just used Velcro. It allows the Upholstery
to be
easily removed to get behind the seats and have full access to the
center
console. It also make it easier for cleaning ....
Jeff Davidson
Message 9
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Subject: | Chat Room Reminder |
Please join us for our Monday evening chat room starting around 8:00 PM
Eastern Time.
<blocked::blocked::blocked::blocked::http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/>
http://www.mykitairplane.com/chat/
George
CH-701 - N73EX - IT FLYS!
Do Not Archive
Message 10
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Subject: | Zodiac Plans For Sale |
Hello Listers
I am selling my CH601 plans. I have complete sets of 601 Speed Wing which I upgraded
to 601 XL plans. The owner of these plans also owns one license to build
an aircraft. You will need to pay a fee to Zenith to transfer legal ownership
to you. Price for the plans is $250 + $20 postage.
I also have a partially built tail kit (rudder built, started on elevator) that
was originally for a 601 HD/SW but I have upgraded with about $200 worth of Xl
parts - unfortunately what they say on the Zenith web site about "all the tail
kits being identical" isn't quite right, some important structural parts (such
as the main tail spar) in the HD are increased thickness. I will sell this
as a package. Please note that this kit has the HD size trim tab, which is
smaller than the XL trim tab. This is for pickup only in Oro Valley, AZ (near
Tucson) and I will make anyone willing to pick it up a great deal on the parts
and a few hundred clecos.
Please email off list at ahinsdale@yahoo.com.
Thanks
Andy
Message 11
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Subject: | For those who responded to my "extra stuff for sale" |
Wow! over 50 people want to buy my airplane tools and parts.
I am starting at the top of the list. This may take some time - please
be patient....Thanks....Fred
do not archive
Message 12
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I'm drilling the canopy for my 601HD. The instructions say to drill the
holes slightly larger than 1/4". What have folks been using for
"slightly larger?" The next size after 1/4" on my step drills is
5/16". Is that acceptable?
Thanks for any information.
Bill
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Carpet and Upholstery |
I bought the confor foam for both of my seats from Hi-Tech Foams ( http://www.seatfoam.com
) for $378. I built the seat cushions my self and it cost me $200 to
have them upholstered with cloth. I made my seats as one piece units
originally but have since cut them into separate bottom and back
pieces. I would recommend making the seats in two pieces, it's much
easier to handle them that way if you have to remove and replace them
or get at the area behind the seats. You can probably get the
upholstery and sew your own seat covers for less or you could buy
aftermarket automotive bucket seat covers and adapt them.
Confor foam isn't cheap, but I flew the plane down to Sun'N'Fun from
Michigan and back in 2005 and it was a very comfortable ride both
ways. The return trip was 13 hours in the cockpit in one day about
four hours at a time with just a few short breaks during fuel stops. I
wasn't a bit sore or fatigued by the seats during the trip. They,re
the most comfortable seats I've ever sat in. The only complaint I had
was my legs got a little uncomfortable from not being able to stretch
out much.
I bought the foam at Sun'N'Fun in 2003. Hi-Tech Foams usually have a
booth set up at both Sun'N'Fun and Oshkosh every year. So if you buy
it at the show you can save on the shipping and I think there is an
air show discount.
On Sep 15, 2008, at 1:39 PM, John Swartout wrote:
> Speaking of seats, I'm at the stage where I need to buy seat
> cushions, backs and coverings for my 801. Ten years ago, when I
> bought the kit, seats weren't something I gave a lot of thought to.
> Everytime I've researched foam and upholstery sources, and read
> magazine articles about the subject, I've been HORRIFIED that foam
> and cloth should cost about $350 per seat and up. I think I can buy
> a nice La-Z-Boy recliner for less, although it would be a little too
> heavy for my airplane. Is there a place to buy decent seats for
> $200 each, or do I need to lose another thick layer of innocence and
> pony up for the best seats I can find (Oregon Aero, etc.)?
>
> John
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
Bill,
5/16 works just fine.
Ken
--------
601 XL / Corvair
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4462#204462
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
Bill, drill hole so that the washer literally floats in the hole, if you are going
to screw the canopy in place. if you drill too small and the angle of the
washer catches the glass, it will crack it. the key is to use a high spead
dremmel sander bit, preferably a cone shaped one, and burn the hole to size.
email mail me direct if you need to at amyvega2005@earthlink.net
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Steer <steerr@bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Sep 15, 2008 5:50 PM
>To: Zenith_list <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
>
>
>I'm drilling the canopy for my 601HD. The instructions say to drill the
>holes slightly larger than 1/4". What have folks been using for
>"slightly larger?" The next size after 1/4" on my step drills is
>5/16". Is that acceptable?
>
>Thanks for any information.
>
>Bill
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
Just a thought, because I'm agonizing over cracking my canopy while drilling
myself. Why not heat up a rod of the correct size with a propane torch and
just melt through in the first place?
Another Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Juan Vega" <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
>
> Bill, drill hole so that the washer literally floats in the hole, if you
> are going to screw the canopy in place. if you drill too small and the
> angle of the washer catches the glass, it will crack it. the key is to
> use a high spead dremmel sander bit, preferably a cone shaped one, and
> burn the hole to size.
>
> email mail me direct if you need to at amyvega2005@earthlink.net
>
> Juan
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Bill Steer <steerr@bellsouth.net>
>>Sent: Sep 15, 2008 5:50 PM
>>To: Zenith_list <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
>>
>>
>>I'm drilling the canopy for my 601HD. The instructions say to drill the
>>holes slightly larger than 1/4". What have folks been using for
>>"slightly larger?" The next size after 1/4" on my step drills is
>>5/16". Is that acceptable?
>>
>>Thanks for any information.
>>
>>Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
I just finished drilling my canopy with a step drill operating at low
rpms. This worked just fine.
I started each hole with an abrasive (diamond) tool in a Dremmel. I
used this to mark both the hole in the bubble canopy and the aluminum hoop.
Paul
XL nearly done
At 04:31 PM 9/15/2008, you wrote:
>Just a thought, because I'm agonizing over cracking my canopy while
>drilling myself. Why not heat up a rod of the correct size with a
>propane torch and just melt through in the first place?
> Another Bill
Message 18
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Hey guys,
I was trying to converse with the chat room around 8:45. Was I just too late? How
long are folk son there?
Do not archive
--
Thanks,
Rich Simmons
Message 19
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Subject: | Cable Swaging tool |
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who have hit the cable
rigging point in building,
is this enough.
Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same inexpensively?
Do not archive
--
Thanks,
Rich Simmons
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Hi Rich,
I am about to start control cables for my XL, but I used the swage-it
tool for the canopy latch cables. I found it to be a very nice tool
to use and was surprised at the quality of the results. I can't
imagine any other tool would produce better results.
I think the more important question is how to gauge the results of
cable sleeve swaging. There is an inexpensive tool you can get from
Aircraft Spruce (and probably many other sources) to measure the
results of an attempt to swage a cable. It is this measurement that
leads you to believe you have done a good job rather than the choice
of tools to do the swaging.
The inexpensive swage-it tool is not very fast to operate. You use a
wrench and some aircraft bolts to compress the sleeve rather than a
big and expensive bolt-cutter shaped tool. I suppose if I were an
hourly paid mechanic I would opt for the expensive tool because of
its time saving quality rather than the quality of results. For a
typical home builder who will use the tool for a few cables perhaps
every few years the inexpensive tool seems like a more appropriate choice.
Paul
XL getting close
At 07:02 PM 9/15/2008, you wrote:
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
>
>The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who
>have hit the cable rigging point in building,
>is this enough.
>
>Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same inexpensively?
>
>Do not archive
>--
>Thanks,
>Rich Simmons
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
I don't think you can consistently "burn"- correctly sized cylindrical ho
les with the hot rod.- Try burning a few holes with scrape plexiglass and
you'll what I am talking about.- I use unibit drill bit in high speed dr
ill with good results.=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Bill
Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net>=0ATo: zenith-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Monday,
September 15, 2008 6:31:43 PM=0ASubject: Re: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
=0A=0AJust a thought, because I'm agonizing over cracking my canopy while d
rilling =0Amyself. Why not heat up a rod of the correct size with a propane
torch and =0Ajust melt through in the first place?=0A- - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - Another Bill=0A----- Original Message ----- =0AFro
m: "Juan Vega" <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>=0ATo: <zenith-list@matronics.com
>; "Zenith_list" <zenith-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Monday, September 15,
2008 7:00 PM=0ASubject: Re: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy=0A=0A=0A> --> Zeni
th-List message posted by: Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net>=0A>=0A> Bi
ll, drill hole so that the washer- literally floats in the hole, if you
=0A> are going to screw the canopy in place.- if you drill too small and
the =0A> angle of the washer catches the glass, it will crack it.- the ke
y is to =0A> use a high spead dremmel sander bit, preferably a cone shaped
one, and =0A> burn the hole to size.=0A>=0A> email mail me direct if you ne
ed to at amyvega2005@earthlink.net=0A>=0A> Juan=0A>=0A> -----Original Messa
ge-----=0A>>From: Bill Steer <steerr@bellsouth.net>=0A>>Sent: Sep 15, 2008
5:50 PM=0A>>To: Zenith_list <zenith-list@matronics.com>=0A>>Subject: Zenith
er <steerr@bellsouth.net>=0A>>=0A>>I'm drilling the canopy for my 601HD.-
The instructions say to drill the=0A>>holes slightly larger than 1/4".-
What have folks been using for=0A>>"slightly larger?"- The next size afte
r 1/4" on my step drills is=0A>>5/16".- Is that acceptable?=0A>>=0A>>Than
ks for any information.=0A>>=0A>>Bill=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>=0A>=0A>
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, L
=========0A=0A=0A
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
This one is a bit easier to use and similar to one I bought on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/5lm95j
On Sep 15, 2008, at 10:02 PM, Rich Simmons wrote:
> Simmons)
>
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
>
> The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who
> have hit the cable rigging point in building,
> is this enough.
>
> Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same
> inexpensively?
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Hello Rich:
-
One point of view only. Do as you think is better.
-
The only tool that will give good result, with LESS chances of incorrect sw
aging is this one:
-
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
-
Yes, is expensive,- more here in Mexico.- I "had"-- to make a speci
al trip to Los Angeles then to Corona to buy it (with some other "goodies"
of course).
We did a colect with some of-the builders in the area (8 of us)- and bo
ught one.
-
We "rent" it for a short fee to the ones that did not thought was a good id
ea
-
Correct cable rigging-IS an important-part of our airplane that "needs"
- good peace of mind when flying in turbulence.- Not as important as ri
gging a wood and cloth airplane but important enough.
-
In USA with so many EAA Chapters and builders, I am sure that you can find
one-close to you that you can-rent or borrow, or better. make a "bring
your beer" barbacue (theme: cables rigging) any Saturday...
-
Might work for you.
-
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying from Chapala Mexico.
"Here all aviation Goodies,-Materials and Tools" are imported-with Cust
oms Fees $$$."
-
--- On Mon, 9/15/08, Rich Simmons <4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net> wrote:
From: Rich Simmons <4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who have hit t
he
cable rigging point in building,
is this enough.
Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same inexpensively?
Do not archive
--
Thanks,
Rich Simmons
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Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
Well in plain "metric"-- the next to- 1/4"- will be 2/4"- then 3/
4" - ;-)- :-)- :-)
-
Do not archive
Saludos
Gary Gower...--
Sorry for the joke.
--- On Mon, 9/15/08, Bill Steer <steerr@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: Bill Steer <steerr@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
I'm drilling the canopy for my 601HD. The instructions say to drill the
holes slightly larger than 1/4". What have folks been using for
"slightly larger?" The next size after 1/4" on my step drills
is
5/16". Is that acceptable?
Thanks for any information.
Bill
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