Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (jaybannist@cs.com)
2. 06:33 AM - Re: Drilling canopy (Bill Steer)
3. 07:27 AM - Re: Drilling Canopy (John Goodings)
4. 07:29 AM - Re: Drilling canopy (Gig Giacona)
5. 07:53 AM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (T. Graziano)
6. 08:05 AM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (Bryan Martin)
7. 08:19 AM - Re: Re: Drilling canopy (Bill Steer)
8. 09:11 AM - Re: XL - Rear Top Skin & 650 Canopy ? (Gig Giacona)
9. 09:20 AM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (steve)
10. 10:52 AM - Re: XL - Rear Top Skin & 650 Canopy ? (PatrickW)
11. 11:07 AM - Re: XL - Rear Top Skin & 650 Canopy ? (Gig Giacona)
12. 03:39 PM - Re: Drilling canopy (Craig Spainhower)
13. 03:42 PM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (Bill Naumuk)
14. 04:21 PM - Re: Cable Swaging tool (steve)
15. 07:27 PM - Detroit FSDO Inspection (Tim Juhl)
16. 07:34 PM - Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection (LHusky@aol.com)
17. 07:39 PM - Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection (steve)
18. 08:02 PM - Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection (Bryan Martin)
19. 08:33 PM - Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection. (Gary Gower)
20. 09:38 PM - Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection. (LHusky@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Rich,
The shown swager (bolt type) is what I used for all my cables. The
alternative tools (big pliers type) are a LOT more expensive. You
might be able to borrow one of those. They are quicker and more
positive. However, the bolt type can be used in more confined places
where there might not be enough room to use the big pliiers type.
Jay in Dallas
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Simmons <4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net>
Sent: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 9:02 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who have
hit the
cable rigging point in building,
is this enough.
Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same
inexpensively?
Do not archive
--
Thanks,
Rich Simmons
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
I agree. The melted material will "pile up" around the edges of the
hole and the size of the hole will be inconsistent. I started each hole
with a 1/8" plexiglass bit I got from ACS and then opened them up with a
unibit in a variable speed drill. I actually tried a 1/4" plexiglass
bit I got at the same time from ACS, but it seemed to want to grab the
plexiglass, so I went with the unibit.
Bill
John Smith wrote:
> I don't think you can consistently "burn" correctly sized cylindrical
> holes with the hot rod. Try burning a few holes with scrape
> plexiglass and you'll what I am talking about. I use unibit drill bit
> in high speed drill with good results.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net>
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 6:31:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
>
> <mailto:naumuk@alltel.net>>
>
> Just a thought, because I'm agonizing over cracking my canopy while
> drilling
> myself. Why not heat up a rod of the correct size with a propane torch
> and
> just melt through in the first place?
> Another Bill
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling Canopy |
There are many replies, and everyone's an expert! Let me give my
thoughts. Consider the whole job; I haven't seen the latest instructions
from Zenair, and my remarks may be repetitious. Presumably, you will use
stainless steel screws, 16 threads per inch into the framing tubes, oval
heads with cup washers with O-rings that fit under the cup washers. In
the 9/32" holes, cut and insert little rings of teflon/polyethylene or
other firm plastic cut from a piece of tubing of 1/4" O.D., about 1/8"
I.D. that the screws will go through. Everything is cushioned; there is
ample clearance around the little teflon rings which are surrounded by a
"layer of air" to allow the canopy material to move a bit. BUT to make
the 9/32" holes, I wouldn't dream of using a step drill. Use a special
plastic drill (with the corners "relieved") to drill the 1/4" holes, and
then use a 1/4" round file to gently increase the hole size. Finish
sanding each hole with very fine sandpaper, and gently bevel the edge of
each hole. Under a magnifying glass, all the hole edges should be really
smooth. The entire operation of what I'm talking about would take about 3
hours. I did this on the advice of an expert builder. I had seen many
601s, nearly all of which had a crack or two at some of the canopy holes.
There is not a hint of a crack anywhere on our canopy after 5 years,
temperatures from -30 to +110 degrees F. Ours is the side-opening canopy
without a metal skirt - just tubes and lucite canopy.
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Carp/Ottawa/Toronto.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
Where are you located Bill? What's the temp? The hotter it is the better when working
with the canopy.
steerr(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
> I'm drilling the canopy for my 601HD. The instructions say to drill the
> holes slightly larger than 1/4". What have folks been using for
> "slightly larger?" The next size after 1/4" on my step drills is
> 5/16". Is that acceptable?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Bill
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4573#204573
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Rich,
That is the type nicropress tool I used. The "kit" I bought was in a yellow
case, had sleeves, the swagger, and a gauge to ensure proper swaging for the
size sleeve used, although if the swage tool was completely closed up on the
swage, the swage was always OK per the gauge. It did not have a cable
cutter. To cut the cable, I taped the area and used a dremal with a cut-off
wheel.
Tony Graziano
XL/Jab; 419 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Simmons" <4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 9:02 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
>
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
>
> The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who have hit
> the cable rigging point in building,
> is this enough.
>
> Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same
> inexpensively?
>
> Do not archive
> --
> Thanks,
> Rich Simmons
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
I bought a brand new tool similar to this on eBay for about $50. It's
made in China but it came with a go -
no go gauge to check the resulting crimp. As long as the crimp is
within tolerance, it doesn't matter how much you paid for the tool. If
you don't have the go - no go gauge, you should definitely get one to
check the crimps you make. The tool I have doesn't include a cable
cutter but a cut-off wheel works better anyway.
On Sep 16, 2008, at 12:57 AM, Gary Gower wrote:
> Hello Rich:
>
> One point of view only. Do as you think is better.
>
> The only tool that will give good result, with LESS chance
> s of incorrect swaging is this one:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
>
> Yes, is expensive, more here in Mexico. I "had" to make a
> special trip to Los Angeles then to Corona to buy it (with some
> other "goodies" of course).
> We did a colect with some of the builders in the area (8 of us) and
> bought one.
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
You're right, Gig. I'm in North Carolina. Temps have been hovering
around 80, warmer in the hangar. The canopy is nice and flexible at
these temps. I'm fortunate that my warm season is longer than some.
Bill
Do not archive
Gig Giacona wrote:
>
> Where are you located Bill? What's the temp? The hotter it is the better when
working with the canopy.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: XL - Rear Top Skin & 650 Canopy ? |
With all this talk about adding the 650 mods to 601s made me think of an issue
that might come up at AW inspection time.
I would seem prudent to call the airplane or at least say it was built from a 601
kit because the 601 is on the 51% approved list and the 650 isn't.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4598#204598
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Seldom do I post here but I do watch discussions daily. This cable
topic is dear to my heart.....
I ve used both the "nico" press and also the small bolt together type of
squeezers. The long handle press has been best. A no- go gauge is not
required on this type of squeeze. With the bolt together type a go- no
go gauge is highly recommeded. I have had cable failure with the bolt
together type..
Some say I do an over kill on my fittings as I now always use two nico
press sleeves on my cables. Ever notice cables on garage doors ???
If the installer used only one "U" bolt, you usually will have it
slip......
Anyway, I vote for the long handle squeezer.........
Now comes the cable tension....
Larry Mc has a home made gauge which I copied. The thing actually
works!
However my good friend has a real C-8 gauge. The thing cost $900
buckaroos.
Man what a difference.
I guess what most dont realize is that to own and maintain airplanes you
need tools. Tools can set you back thousands of dollars but its nice to
have equipment.....
Jmo
SW
601XL QBK
N9554Z
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Martin
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
I bought a brand new tool similar to this on eBay for about $50. It's
made in China but it came with a go -
no go gauge to check the resulting crimp. As long as the crimp is
within tolerance, it doesn't matter how much you paid for the tool. If
you don't have the go - no go gauge, you should definitely get one to
check the crimps you make. The tool I have doesn't include a cable
cutter but a cut-off wheel works better anyway.
On Sep 16, 2008, at 12:57 AM, Gary Gower wrote:
Hello Rich:
One point of view only. Do as you think is better.
The only tool that will give good result, with LESS chance
s of incorrect swaging is this one:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
Yes, is expensive, more here in Mexico. I "had" to make a
special trip to Los Angeles then to Corona to buy it (with some other
"goodies" of course).
We did a colect with some of the builders in the area (8 of
us) and bought one.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: XL - Rear Top Skin & 650 Canopy ? |
Agree. That's the reason I haven't done the "upgrade".
I see little substantive difference between an "XL with a 650 canopy" vs a "650
with XL wings, XL rudder, and XL main gear", other than the paperwork.
And the last thing I want to do after all this work is to put myself into some
sort of paperwork limbo with the FAA....
BTW - here's the data plate on the 650 at Oshkosh. Says "XL".
- Pat
--------
Patrick
601XL/Corvair
N63PZ (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4625#204625
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: XL - Rear Top Skin & 650 Canopy ? |
Very interesting picture.
PatrickW wrote:
>
>
> BTW - here's the data plate on the 650 at Oshkosh. Says "601".
>
> - Pat
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4629#204629
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling canopy |
I started and drilled all my holes exclusively with a 1/2" unibit. I have a
canopy from Toddscanopies so it may be stronger that the one ZAC used to
supply, but I have a separate windshield so I drilled twice the number of
holes as a stock canopy and never a hint of a crack anywhere. The design of
the step drill makes it perfect for plastic. Other's results may vary, but I
would never consider using anything other than a unibit.
Craig S.
N601XS, inspection rained out for this week, maybe next week.
On 9/16/08, Bill Steer <steerr@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
> I agree. The melted material will "pile up" around the edges of the hole
> and the size of the hole will be inconsistent. I started each hole with a
> 1/8" plexiglass bit I got from ACS and then opened them up with a unibit in
> a variable speed drill. I actually tried a 1/4" plexiglass bit I got at the
> same time from ACS, but it seemed to want to grab the plexiglass, so I went
> with the unibit.
>
> Bill
>
> John Smith wrote:
>
>> I don't think you can consistently "burn" correctly sized cylindrical
>> holes with the hot rod. Try burning a few holes with scrape plexiglass and
>> you'll what I am talking about. I use unibit drill bit in high speed drill
>> with good results.
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Bill Naumuk <naumuk@alltel.net>
>> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 6:31:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Drilling canopy
>>
>> naumuk@alltel.net>>
>>
>> Just a thought, because I'm agonizing over cracking my canopy while
>> drilling
>> myself. Why not heat up a rod of the correct size with a propane torch and
>> just melt through in the first place?
>> Another Bill
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Guys-
From experience I can tell you-
1. The $20 ACS tool works just fine, but you'll wind up with carpal
tunnel by the time you're done.
2. You have to go back to the Grand Master of homebuilding, Tony
Bingelis, for THE technique for cutting cable.
Put a wrap of electrical tape around the area you want to cut, lay it on
a stout piece of steel (Like the back of a good size vise) and smack it with
a 3 lb hammer and a cold chisel. Perfect, clean, cheap, and quick.
Try it. I defy anyone to beat the technique. Even for old-timers, try
it. Afterwards, you'll never recommend any other way.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Graziano" <tonyplane@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
>
> Rich,
> That is the type nicropress tool I used. The "kit" I bought was in a
> yellow case, had sleeves, the swagger, and a gauge to ensure proper
> swaging for the size sleeve used, although if the swage tool was
> completely closed up on the swage, the swage was always OK per the gauge.
> It did not have a cable cutter. To cut the cable, I taped the area and
> used a dremal with a cut-off wheel.
> Tony Graziano
> XL/Jab; 419 hrs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Simmons" <4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net>
> To: "Zenith-List Digest List" <zenith-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 9:02 PM
> Subject: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
>
>
>>
>>
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
>>
>> The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who have hit
>> the cable rigging point in building,
>> is this enough.
>>
>> Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same
>> inexpensively?
>>
>> Do not archive
>> --
>> Thanks,
>> Rich Simmons
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Swaging tool |
Yes but.....
For $19 from ACS, I purchased a real cable cutter. The best thing I
"almost" ever dun did.
I kick myself for the years of hacking the cable in two.
The new cutter is soooooo easy.
I should have, years ago. Duh!
Steve Weston
Arizona A20
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Naumuk" <naumuk@alltel.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
>
> Guys-
> From experience I can tell you-
> 1. The $20 ACS tool works just fine, but you'll wind up with carpal
> tunnel by the time you're done.
> 2. You have to go back to the Grand Master of homebuilding, Tony
> Bingelis, for THE technique for cutting cable.
> Put a wrap of electrical tape around the area you want to cut, lay it
> on a stout piece of steel (Like the back of a good size vise) and smack it
> with a 3 lb hammer and a cold chisel. Perfect, clean, cheap, and quick.
> Try it. I defy anyone to beat the technique. Even for old-timers, try
> it. Afterwards, you'll never recommend any other way.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T. Graziano" <tonyplane@bellsouth.net>
> To: <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 10:17 AM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
>
>
>> <tonyplane@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Rich,
>> That is the type nicropress tool I used. The "kit" I bought was in a
>> yellow case, had sleeves, the swagger, and a gauge to ensure proper
>> swaging for the size sleeve used, although if the swage tool was
>> completely closed up on the swage, the swage was always OK per the gauge.
>> It did not have a cable cutter. To cut the cable, I taped the area and
>> used a dremal with a cut-off wheel.
>> Tony Graziano
>> XL/Jab; 419 hrs
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Rich Simmons" <4RCSIMMONS@comcast.net>
>> To: "Zenith-List Digest List" <zenith-list-digest@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 9:02 PM
>> Subject: Zenith-List: Cable Swaging tool
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
>>>
>>> The above is a swagging kit from Aircraft spruce. From those who have
>>> hit the cable rigging point in building,
>>> is this enough.
>>>
>>> Any suggestion for other tools that will accomplish the same
>>> inexpensively?
>>>
>>> Do not archive
>>> --
>>> Thanks,
>>> Rich Simmons
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Detroit FSDO Inspection |
I recently sat in while a friend of mine had his 80% Tiger Moth Replica inspected
by a inspector from the Detroit FSDO. The inspector was knowledgeable and
excellent to work with and my friend came away with his airworthiness certificate
without a hassle. The FAA guy had forgotten his temporary airman certificates
blanks so he flew back in the next week to issue my friend his repairman
certificate. Talk about service!
If anyone on the group is in the Detroit FSDO's service area and would like to
schedule an inspection with this inspector contact me direct and I'll give you
the info.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4705#204705
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection |
Well, that leaves me with a question. Do you have to be ready to fly before
the inspection? 80% Tiger Moth Replica. What did he have left to do at the
time of inspection?
Thanks,
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
In a message dated 9/16/2008 7:29:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
juhl@avci.net writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
I recently sat in while a friend of mine had his 80% Tiger Moth Replica
inspected by a inspector from the Detroit FSDO. The inspector was knowledgeable
and excellent to work with and my friend came away with his airworthiness
certificate without a hassle. The FAA guy had forgotten his temporary airman
certificates blanks so he flew back in the next week to issue my friend his
repairman certificate. Talk about service!
If anyone on the group is in the Detroit FSDO's service area and would like
to schedule an inspection with this inspector contact me direct and I'll give
you the info.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4705#204705
**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog,
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection |
......................................
----- Original Message -----
From: LHusky@aol.com
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Detroit FSDO Inspection
Well, that leaves me with a question. Do you have to be ready to fly
before the inspection? 80% Tiger Moth Replica. What did he have left
to do at the time of inspection?
Thanks,
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
In a message dated 9/16/2008 7:29:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
juhl@avci.net writes:
I recently sat in while a friend of mine had his 80% Tiger Moth
Replica inspected by a inspector from the Detroit FSDO. The inspector
was knowledgeable and excellent to work with and my friend came away
with his airworthiness certificate without a hassle. The FAA guy had
forgotten his temporary airman certificates blanks so he flew back in
the next week to issue my friend his repairman certificate. Talk about
service!
If anyone on the group is in the Detroit FSDO's service area and
would like to schedule an inspection with this inspector contact me
direct and I'll give you the info.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4705#204705
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the
latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection |
Yes, you have to be ready to fly before the inspection. I would assume
that 80% refers to 80% scale not 80% complete.
On Sep 16, 2008, at 10:33 PM, LHusky@aol.com wrote:
> Well, that leaves me with a question. Do you have to be ready to
> fly before the inspection? 80% Tiger Moth Replica. What did he
> have left to do at the time of inspection?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Husky
> Madras, Oregon
>
>
> In a message dated 9/16/2008 7:29:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, juhl@avci.net
> writes:
>
> I recently sat in while a friend of mine had his 80% Tiger Moth
> Replica inspected by a inspector from the Detroit FSDO. The
> inspector was knowledgeable and excellent to work with and my friend
> came away with his airworthiness certificate without a hassle. The
> FAA guy had forgotten his temporary airman certificates blanks so he
> flew back in the next week to issue my friend his repairman
> certificate. Talk about service!
>
> If anyone on the group is in the Detroit FSDO's service area and
> would like to schedule an inspection with this inspector contact me
> direct and I'll give you the info.
>
> Tim
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection. |
All questions have -to be answered correctly,--New guys in aviation h
ave to make their-way to aviatio knowledge with the help of all of-us.
-80% in this case is the scale of the replica about the original.-- o
ther designers use scales- 7/8- 3/4- etc...- normally the Antique a
nd War airplanes are (were) very big and powerfull,- then we have very br
ight designers that "design " an airplane that looks similar to the origina
l but uses smaller engines, alternate materials, smaller aver all size, etc
.-- like the 5151 wooden replica of the P51 Mustang.- One of my favor
ite low cost replica, another good one (and very inexpensive) is late Graha
m Lee's- 7/8 Neiuport 11 replica.
-
Note: -I had the chance to make good internet friends with Mr Graham Lee.
Also-I was fortunate enough (by accident visiting the Beechcraft Museum)
to meet in person Mr Loehle (P 5151 designer)- when I went to the Jabiru
Seminar about March this year.-- In that same Hangar I meet Mr Eric Clu
ton (designer of F.R.E.D. airplane-and the writer of the his Propeller bu
ilding book)!!!
-
Is like meeting the Living Aviation History for someone from a foreign Coun
try.-- When you see names like this only in magazines...- Meeting the
people in person, is-Great.-
Also you discover that they are real friendly guys that treat you as they w
ere your old time friends...-
Sorry guys for the long post.- Experimental Aviation (world wide) is a bi
g family.
-
Hope this helps
-
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
--- On Tue, 9/16/08, LHusky@aol.com <LHusky@aol.com> wrote:
From: LHusky@aol.com <LHusky@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Detroit FSDO Inspection
Well, that leaves me with a question.- Do you have to be ready to fly bef
ore the inspection?- 80% Tiger Moth Replica.- What did he have left to
do at the time of inspection?-
-
Thanks,
-
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
-
-
In a message dated 9/16/2008 7:29:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, juhl@avci.
net writes:
I recently sat in while a friend of mine had his 80% Tiger Moth Replica ins
pected by a inspector from the Detroit FSDO.- The inspector was knowledge
able and excellent to work with and my friend came away with his airworthin
ess certificate without a hassle.- The FAA guy had forgotten his temporar
y airman certificates blanks so he flew back in the next week to issue my f
riend his repairman certificate.- Talk about service!
If anyone on the group is in the Detroit FSDO's service area and would like
to schedule an inspection with this inspector contact me direct and I'll g
ive you the info.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4705#204705
Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the late
st fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Detroit FSDO Inspection. |
Thanks Gary, that does explain it nicely. I have done a lot of research on
the inspection and I have seen 7/8, 3/4 etc, but I have not seen the % ratio
before. My first thought was that he was 80% done, not that he had a 7/8
scale replica.
Thanks,
Larry
In a message dated 9/16/2008 8:34:22 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ggower_99@yahoo.com writes:
All questions have to be answered correctly, New guys in aviation have to
make their way to aviatio knowledge with the help of all of us.
80% in this case is the scale of the replica about the original. other
designers use scales 7/8 3/4 etc... normally the Antique and War airplanes
are (were) very big and powerfull, then we have very bright designers that
"design " an airplane that looks similar to the original but uses smaller
engines, alternate materials, smaller aver all size, etc. like the 5151 wooden
replica of the P51 Mustang. One of my favorite low cost replica, another
good one (and very inexpensive) is late Graham Lee's 7/8 Neiuport 11 replica.
Note: I had the chance to make good internet friends with Mr Graham Lee.
Also I was fortunate enough (by accident visiting the Beechcraft Museum) to
meet in person Mr Loehle (P 5151 designer) when I went to the Jabiru Seminar
about March this year. In that same Hangar I meet Mr Eric Cluton (designer
of F.R.E.D. airplane and the writer of the his Propeller building book)!!!
Is like meeting the Living Aviation History for someone from a foreign
Country. When you see names like this only in magazines... Meeting the people
in person, is Great.
Also you discover that they are real friendly guys that treat you as they
were your old time friends...
Sorry guys for the long post. Experimental Aviation (world wide) is a big
family.
Hope this helps
Saludos
Gary Gower
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
--- On Tue, 9/16/08, LHusky@aol.com <LHusky@aol.com> wrote:
From: LHusky@aol.com <LHusky@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Detroit FSDO Inspection
Well, that leaves me with a question. Do you have to be ready to fly before
the inspection? 80% Tiger Moth Replica. What did he have left to do at the
time of inspection?
Thanks,
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
In a message dated 9/16/2008 7:29:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
juhl@avci.net writes:
I recently sat in while a friend of mine had his 80% Tiger Moth Replica
inspected by a inspector from the Detroit FSDO. The inspector was knowledgeable
and excellent to work with and my friend came away with his airworthiness
certificate without a hassle. The FAA guy had forgotten his temporary airman
certificates blanks so he flew back in the next week to issue my friend his
repairman certificate. Talk about service!
If anyone on the group is in the Detroit FSDO's service area and would like
to schedule an inspection with this inspector contact me direct and I'll give
you the info.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Working on fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4705#204705
____________________________________
Psssst...Have you heard the news? _There's a new fashion blog, plus the
latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com_
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) .
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