Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:58 PM - Re: Cell phones and flying (Rhino)
2. 12:59 PM - Re: Internet and flying (Rhino)
3. 02:12 PM - Re: Question about the incidence change in the Zodiac 650 (Juan Vega)
4. 04:26 PM - Re: Spinners (leinad)
5. 04:55 PM - Leaky Prosealed Tank (leinad)
6. 05:07 PM - Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank (Carlos Sa)
7. 05:32 PM - Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank (T. Graziano)
8. 05:36 PM - Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank ()
9. 05:40 PM - Re: Re: Spinners (jaybannist@cs.com)
10. 05:51 PM - Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank (leinad)
11. 06:21 PM - Re: Spinners (leinad)
12. 07:05 PM - Re: Re: Spinners (jaybannist@cs.com)
13. 07:22 PM - Ground block (Bill Naumuk)
14. 07:56 PM - Re: Re: Spinners (Roger & Lina Hill)
15. 11:24 PM - Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank (Trainnut01@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cell phones and flying |
rsteele(at)rjsit.com wrote:
> I understand the reasoning here. What I don't understand is how this works in
Europe and Canada, where it is legal to use cell phones in planes while the
FCC insists we can't in the US. Seems to me either we have a very poor cellular
infrastructure or the FCC is blowing smoke.
Smoke. Sort of.
First, the regulation cited above is in part 22 of CFR 47. That part deals with
the 800 Mhz band only. There are no such prohibitions in the other bands and
very few cell phones are still in the 800 Mhz band. The guy who wrote that particular
regulation for the FCC is actually a GA pilot.
http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23309
Second, the 'problems' cited with cell towers from an aircraft aloft are based
on high altitude airliners, and high speeds that could conceiveably make tower
'tracking' extremely difficult. Tooling around in your little Zenith isn't going
to get you seen by very many additional towers. And God knows your speed won't
be a problem.
Third, actual measured tests of cell phones in high altitude, high speed aircraft
have demonstrated that none of those perceived problems actually exist. They
also demonstrated that cell phones do not interfere with aircraft systems. Imagine
that.
--------
Bob Simmons
CH 750!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225896#225896
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| Subject: | Re: Internet and flying |
Sprint Wi Fi card are not 800 Mhz, and are therefore not prohibited by that regulation.
See the other discussion thread.
--------
Bob Simmons
CH 750!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225897#225897
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| Subject: | Re: Question about the incidence change in the Zodiac |
650
one has nothing to do with the other.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ken Lilja <planes_by_ken@bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Jan 19, 2009 5:00 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Question about the incidence change in the Zodiac
650
>
>
>I guess I see it as 2 degrees less that is needed for rotation.
>Ken
>Juan Vega wrote:
>>
>> pop off has nothing to do with incendence of wing, but the landing gear set
up. if the wheels are aft of the cg line, it takes back stick to unstick the
plane. if you have the wheels in closer to the cg, the plane takes of on its
own with the right trim in place.
>>
>> Juan
>>
>
>
Message 4
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Jay,
My spinner weighs about 2 lb 6 oz. This "seams" heavy to me. Did you by chance
weigh yours before installing it?
Dan
jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
> Dan,
>
> I used the spinner from Van's that WW recommends. It has a bulkhead behind
the prop and one in front of the prop. It was fairly easy to install and runs
true. I can't imagine how a spinner would work with only one bulkhead.
>
> Jay in Dallas
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
> --
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225922#225922
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| Subject: | Leaky Prosealed Tank |
All,
I've assembled my fuel tanks with proseal and rivets. I put about 1/2 psi air
in them and have a clear tygon tubing with red food dye attached to a door jamb
as pressure indicator. I pump air into the tank with a bicycle pump. I raise
the level of the fluid 13.8 inches to give my 1/2 psi and have a pointer
to show where I stop adding air. My problem is that I've tested 2 of the 4 wing
tanks and they both leaked! The first leaked down several inches in about
10 minutes and I was able to find the leak with sudsy water. The second took
an hour to leak down an inch and I haven't been able to find the leak. I'm
reluctant to put more pressure in the tanks. Has anyone gone through this,
and what was the solution to both finding and fixing the leaks? I can't even
get my hand through the filler, so applying more goo from inside seams impossible.
Solutions I've considered have been to cut a large access hole in the
back of the tank, patch my leaks from inside then patch the access hole. Another
thought was form a U shaped bead of aluminum to wrap around the leaky joint,
with plenty of proseal thus forming an fix from the outside. But I still
need to find the slow leak on tank #2.
If I'm not clear about my methods I'm going to post some pictures on the web site: http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us
Dan Dempsey
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225925#225925
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuelsender_730.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/leakdetect_805.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank |
Dan, most of what I learned about this type of sorcery was from RV builders
(web sites and matronics archives).
I remember reading about somebody using a syringe to inject proseal (?) and
fix a leak.
Good luck
Carlos
2009/1/20 leinad <leinad@hughes.net>
>
> All,
> I've assembled my fuel tanks with proseal and rivets. I put about 1/2 psi
> air in them and have a clear tygon tubing with red food dye attached to a
> door jamb as pressure indicator. I pump air into the tank with a bicycle
> pump. I raise the level of the fluid 13.8 inches to give my 1/2 psi and
> have a pointer to show where I stop adding air. My problem is that I've
> tested 2 of the 4 wing tanks and they both leaked! The first leaked down
> several inches in about 10 minutes and I was able to find the leak with
> sudsy water. The second took an hour to leak down an inch and I haven't
> been able to find the leak. I'm reluctant to put more pressure in the
> tanks. Has anyone gone through this, and what was the solution to both
> finding and fixing the leaks? I can't even get my hand through the
> filler, so applying more goo from inside seams impossible. Solutions I've
> considered have been to cut a large access hole in the back of the tank,
> patch my leaks from inside then !
> patch the access hole. Another thought was form a U shaped bead of
> aluminum to wrap around the leaky joint, with plenty of proseal thus forming
> an fix from the outside. But I still need to find the slow leak on tank
> #2.
> If I'm not clear about my methods I'm going to post some pictures on the
> web site: http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us
> Dan Dempsey
>
> --------
> Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225925#225925
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuelsender_730.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/leakdetect_805.jpg
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank |
May not have a leak in #2 . Make sure your temp is stable
If I remember correctly, PV=rT. Pressure X Volume = gas constant X
absolute Temp
----- Original Message -----
From: Carlos Sa
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Leaky Prosealed Tank
Dan, most of what I learned about this type of sorcery was from RV
builders (web sites and matronics archives).
I remember reading about somebody using a syringe to inject proseal
(?) and fix a leak.
Good luck
Carlos
2009/1/20 leinad <leinad@hughes.net>
All,
I've assembled my fuel tanks with proseal and rivets. I put about
1/2 psi air in them and have a clear tygon tubing with red food dye
attached to a door jamb as pressure indicator. I pump air into the
tank with a bicycle pump. I raise the level of the fluid 13.8 inches
to give my 1/2 psi and have a pointer to show where I stop adding air.
My problem is that I've tested 2 of the 4 wing tanks and they both
leaked! The first leaked down several inches in about 10 minutes and
I was able to find the leak with sudsy water. The second took an hour
to leak down an inch and I haven't been able to find the leak. I'm
reluctant to put more pressure in the tanks. Has anyone gone through
this, and what was the solution to both finding and fixing the leaks?
I can't even get my hand through the filler, so applying more goo from
inside seams impossible. Solutions I've considered have been to cut a
large access hole in the back of the tank, patch my leaks from inside
then !
patch the access hole. Another thought was form a U shaped bead
of aluminum to wrap around the leaky joint, with plenty of proseal thus
forming an fix from the outside. But I still need to find the slow
leak on tank #2.
If I'm not clear about my methods I'm going to post some pictures on
the web site: http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us
Dan Dempsey
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225925#225925
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuelsender_730.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/leakdetect_805.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank |
Dan, I went through much the same problem, with leaks that weren't
"authorized". I cut about a 6-inch hole where the filler was, and went
in by hand through that hole. Then I mounted the filler on a larger
plate, pro-sealed between the tank and my "access plate", then drilled
and rivetted (dip the rivets in proseal) to close the tanks. By the way,
water is frowned upon in tanks. There's a risk of corrosion on the fuel
sender. (don't ask how I know). I used a couple of gallons of diesel,
and held the tank in different positions to check for leaks. Actually,
proseal is tough enough that you might be able to slop it on externally,
and stop a small leak.
Paul Rodriguez
----- Original Message -----
From: Carlos Sa<mailto:carlossa52@gmail.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Leaky Prosealed Tank
Dan, most of what I learned about this type of sorcery was from RV
builders (web sites and matronics archives).
I remember reading about somebody using a syringe to inject proseal
(?) and fix a leak.
Good luck
Carlos
2009/1/20 leinad <leinad@hughes.net<mailto:leinad@hughes.net>>
<leinad@hughes.net<mailto:leinad@hughes.net>>
All,
I've assembled my fuel tanks with proseal and rivets. I put about
1/2 psi air in them and have a clear tygon tubing with red food dye
attached to a door jamb as pressure indicator. I pump air into the
tank with a bicycle pump. I raise the level of the fluid 13.8 inches
to give my 1/2 psi and have a pointer to show where I stop adding air.
My problem is that I've tested 2 of the 4 wing tanks and they both
leaked! The first leaked down several inches in about 10 minutes and
I was able to find the leak with sudsy water. The second took an hour
to leak down an inch and I haven't been able to find the leak. I'm
reluctant to put more pressure in the tanks. Has anyone gone through
this, and what was the solution to both finding and fixing the leaks?
I can't even get my hand through the filler, so applying more goo from
inside seams impossible. Solutions I've considered have been to cut a
large access hole in the back of the tank, patch my leaks from inside
then !
patch the access hole. Another thought was form a U shaped bead
of aluminum to wrap around the leaky joint, with plenty of proseal thus
forming an fix from the outside. But I still need to find the slow
leak on tank #2.
If I'm not clear about my methods I'm going to post some pictures on
the web site:
http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us<http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us/>
Dan Dempsey
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225925#225925<http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225925#225925>
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuelsender_730.jpg<http://forums.matro
nics.com//files/fuelsender_730.jpg>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/leakdetect_805.jpg<http://forums.matro
nics.com//files/leakdetect_805.jpg>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Zenith-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 9
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Dan,
No, I didn't weigh it. Van's installation sheet doesn't give weights, either.?
I'd guess that the fiberglass cone is from around 1/16" to 3/32" thick. Van's
drawing calls for a .063" (1/16") thick filler behind the prop blades. I actually
used part of the cut-out for the prop for the fillers. The base of the cone
is 13" in diameter and it is 13 1/2" from base to tip.? The bulkheads are .063"
2024-T0 aluminum.? We ('Vairheads) had to get together and come up with a
hole pattern to fit the WW hub bolt pattern.? When installing it, I used a laser
spot aimed at the tip of the cone to insure the tip wouldn't move. I had the
spark plugs out and rotated the prop to make sure of the alignment.
Jay in Dallas
-----Original Message-----
From: leinad <leinad@hughes.net>
Sent: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 6:25 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Spinners
Jay,
My spinner weighs about 2 lb 6 oz. This "seams" heavy to me. Did you by chance
weigh yours before installing it?
Dan
jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
> Dan,
>
> I used the spinner from Van's that WW recommends. It has a bulkhead behind
the prop and one in front of the prop. It was fairly easy to install and runs
true. I can't imagine how a spinner would work with only one bulkhead.
>
> Jay in Dallas
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
> --
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225922#225922
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank |
Paul,
Thanks for the guidance. Sounds like you did one of the ideas I've been contemplating.
Now if I can find the leak in tank #2.
Tony,
Thanks, but it's not temperature. This can be proved by putting the air back in
the tank. The indicator always goes down, never back up.
I have more photos up now at:
http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us/zodiac/fuel/index.html
Dan
[quote="paulrod36(at)msn.com"] Dan, I went through much the same problem, with
leaks that weren't "authorized". I cut about a 6-inch hole where the filler
was, and went in by hand through that hole. Then I mounted the filler on a larger
plate, pro-sealed between the tank and my "access plate", then drilled and
rivetted (dip the rivets in proseal) to close the tanks. By the way, water
is frowned upon in tanks. There's a risk of corrosion on the fuel sender. (don't
ask how I know). I used a couple of gallons of diesel, and held the tank
in different positions to check for leaks. Actually, proseal is tough enough
that you might be able to slop it on externally, and stop a small leak.
Paul Rodriguez
> ---
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225932#225932
Message 11
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Jay,
Thanks for the info. At this point knowing the weight might convince me to call
the UHS a mistake and order the Van's spinner. I'm really not very happy with
the finish. There are many imperfections in the surface.
With 2 bulk heads I assume thickness of the prop is tightly controlled. My prop
is 3 3/4" thick.
I'm a little concerned about what you say about the bolt pattern. Isn't W. Wynne
using SAE1? (6 bolts on 4.375) That's what was on the plans I purchased from
him about 5 years ago. Think I'll go visit the Van's site now.
Dan Dempsey
jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
> Dan,
>
> No, I didn't weigh it. Van's installation sheet doesn't give weights, either.
I'd guess that the fiberglass cone is from around 1/16" to 3/32" thick. Van's
drawing calls for a .063" (1/16") thick filler behind the prop blades. I actually
used part of the cut-out for the prop for the fillers. The base of the
cone is 13" in diameter and it is 13 1/2" from base to tip. The bulkheads are
.063" 2024-T0 aluminum. We ('Vairheads) had to get together and come up with
a hole pattern to fit the WW hub bolt pattern. When installing it, I used a
laser spot aimed at the tip of the cone to insure the tip wouldn't move. I had
the spark plugs out and rotated the prop to make sure of the alignment.
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
> --
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225933#225933
Message 12
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Dan,
My spinner from Van's had a super finish, right out of the box. It required no
finish work, other than making the cut outs for the prop and painting.? I don't
know the SAE numbers, but WW's bolt pattern doesn't match Van's. I have a drawing
of the bolt pattern we came up with.? Let me now if you want me to send
it to you.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: leinad <leinad@hughes.net>
Sent: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 8:20 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Spinners
Jay,
Thanks for the info. At this point knowing the weight might convince me to call
the UHS a mistake and order the Van's spinner. I'm really not very happy with
the finish. There are many imperfections in the surface.
With 2 bulk heads I assume thickness of the prop is tightly controlled. My prop
is 3 3/4" thick.
I'm a little concerned about what you say about the bolt pattern. Isn't W.
Wynne using SAE1? (6 bolts on 4.375) That's what was on the plans I purchased
from him about 5 years ago. Think I'll go visit the Van's site now.
Dan Dempsey
jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
> Dan,
>
> No, I didn't weigh it. Van's installation sheet doesn't give weights, either.
I'd guess that the fiberglass cone is from around 1/16" to 3/32" thick. Van's
drawing calls for a .063" (1/16") thick filler behind the prop blades. I
actually used part of the cut-out for the prop for the fillers. The base of the
cone is 13" in diameter and it is 13 1/2" from base to tip. The bulkheads are
.063" 2024-T0 aluminum. We ('Vairheads) had to get together and come up with a
hole pattern to fit the WW hub bolt pattern. When installing it, I used a laser
spot aimed at the tip of the cone to insure the tip wouldn't move. I had the
spark plugs out and rotated the prop to make sure of the alignment.
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
> --
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225933#225933
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 13
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All-
B+C recommends installing the panel ground block on the firewall,
but I've got the header tank in the way.
Is mounting the ground block near the panel, then running a braided
ground cable to one of the motor mounts a workable alternative?
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS 601MG/Corvair 95%
Message 14
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Great Plains VW has a selection of "you build it" spinners.
Roger
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jaybannist@cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Spinners
Dan,
My spinner from Van's had a super finish, right out of the box. It required
no finish work, other than making the cut outs for the prop and painting. I
don't know the SAE numbers, but WW's bolt pattern doesn't match Van's. I
have a drawing of the bolt pattern we came up with. Let me now if you want
me to send it to you.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: leinad <leinad@hughes.net>
Sent: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 8:20 pm
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Spinners
Jay,
Thanks for the info. At this point knowing the weight might convince me to
call
the UHS a mistake and order the Van's spinner. I'm really not very happy
with
the finish. There are many imperfections in the surface.
With 2 bulk heads I assume thickness of the prop is tightly controlled. My
prop
is 3 3/4" thick.
I'm a little concerned about what you say about the bolt pattern. Isn't W.
Wynne using SAE1? (6 bolts on 4.375) That's what was on the plans I
purchased
from him about 5 years ago. Think I'll go visit the Van's site now.
Dan Dempsey
jaybannist(at)cs.com wrote:
> Dan,
>
> No, I didn't weigh it. Van's installation sheet doesn't give weights,
either.
I'd guess that the fiberglass cone is from around 1/16" to 3/32" thick.
Van's
drawing calls for a .063" (1/16") thick filler behind the prop blades. I
actually used part of the cut-out for the prop for the fillers. The base of
the
cone is 13" in diameter and it is 13 1/2" from base to tip. The bulkheads
are
.063" 2024-T0 aluminum. We ('Vairheads) had to get together and come up
with a
hole pattern to fit the WW hub bolt pattern. When installing it, I used a
laser
spot aimed at the tip of the cone to insure the tip wouldn't move. I had the
spark plugs out and rotated the prop to make sure of the alignment.
>
> Jay in Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
> --
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225933#225933
_____
size=2 width="100%" align=center>
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank |
Dan
When I built my RV I had to cut a hole in the back of one of the tanks to
seal a leaky joint. I was really easy to do. (After I got the tank out.)
Carroll
XLVair
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