Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:00 AM - Re: Pipe for bending leading edge (kmccune)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: 601XL Nose Ribs (William Dominguez)
3. 06:53 AM - CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS (Joe)
4. 07:35 AM - CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS (Beckman, Rick)
5. 08:03 AM - Re: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS (Trainnut01@aol.com)
6. 09:50 AM - Re: Pipe for bending leading edge (leinad)
7. 10:01 AM - Re: Pipe for bending leading edge (leinad)
8. 10:09 AM - Re: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS (Sabrina)
9. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge (Carlos Sa)
10. 03:11 PM - Re: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS (Bill Naumuk)
11. 03:28 PM - Re: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge (Bill Naumuk)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Pipe for bending leading edge |
I t does not look as though you drilled holes in the pipe? I drilled holes along
one side down the pipes length for the stab and elevator skins. I assume that
you let the vac suck out one end inside the plastic? This is interesting, because
I don't want to ruin another pipe by drilling holes in it when I do my
wing skin!
do not archive
Kevin
--------
Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228133#228133
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: 601XL Nose Ribs |
I made the same mistake. I made a bigger L angle to attach the nose rib to the
spar, one with twice as much flange at top and bottom on the side that attach
to the nose rib. In that way I can rivet all the way from top to bottom and closing
the spar cap cutout
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami Florida
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom/
--- On Sun, 2/1/09, Derek Lewis <numskull99@netzero.net> wrote:
From: Derek Lewis <numskull99@netzero.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL Nose Ribs
<numskull99@netzero.net>
Question for scratch builders or anyone with the knowledge.
I made a mistake on my nose ribs. On 6-W-5 it shows NR1, 2, an 3 have a 8 mm
cutout to allow clearance of the main spar caps. Rib 4 to 7 are should not have
that. I failed to notice this when I cut my rib blanks or even after forming
them. Did anyone else make this mistake, and how important is the extra top and
bottom rivet connecting the rib to the nose rib angle? Is it possible to still
use the ribs, and maintain the structure? Or would I be better off making new
ones?
Thanks,
Derek Lewis
St George, Utah
____________________________________________________________
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Message 3
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Subject: | CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS |
my xl kit was purchased in 02 wings assembled have ben sitting around
moved many times. have picked up some dents can i use a filler ?
what kinde. also what to use for cleaning in general.
thanks.
joe ham
xl / lycoming 0235
Message 4
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Subject: | CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS |
Hi, Joe,
I had a couple of dents (minor) from the
delivery of parts. I went to O'Reilly's and got a tube of filler glaze
for the very small dings. I used a good body putty to fill around parts
that I wanted to blend to a contour or just smooth around an add on such
as the tail light. Lightly sand with 600 then 1000 before priming.
Block sand if it is on a curve to hold the radius and not have a flat
spot. It will be impossible to spot after painting.
Rick Beckman
Do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS |
I had the same problem. Recommend Poly-Fiber Superfil. Got mine at Aircraft
Spruce. Strong, light and easy to work with.
Carroll
do not archive
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Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Pipe for bending leading edge |
Ron,
No I didn't. I picked up the camera to shoot one, but just about the time I was
ready to take the picture a hole developed in the plastic and let the air out.
The part was already bent, so I saw no use in fixing the hole just for a picture.
I'll try again next time, maybe ask for an assistant on that issue.
Dan
Ron Lendon wrote:
> Looking good Dan, hope your team won. Did ya get any pictures with the vacuum
applied and the part totally collapsed?
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228182#228182
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Pipe for bending leading edge |
Kevin,
I may drill holes for the next one. The pipe has already been claimed for a couple
of closet rods, so a few holes won't matter. I had a very thin wall piece
of brass pipe from a sink drain in a pile of junk and I took that and crushed
one end in the vice. This became my "nozzle" which I fastened to the end
of the vacuum cleaner hose. It worked OK but was hard to tape in place.
One thing I'm not certain about is whether I'll regret not drilling the rivet holes
before bending. Has anyone done it that way? I'm going to have to lay all
my holes out on a now curved surface.
Dan
kmccune wrote:
> I t does not look as though you drilled holes in the pipe? I drilled holes along
one side down the pipes length for the stab and elevator skins. I assume that
you let the vac suck out one end inside the plastic? This is interesting,
because I don't want to ruin another pipe by drilling holes in it when I do my
wing skin!
> do not archive
>
> Kevin
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228184#228184
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS |
I would not sand 6061-T6 with any grit, use alumi prep with the 3M pad/ applicator
they recommend, rinse, dry, alodine, rinse, dry, prime with one color, then
prime with a different color sandable primer, then apply a compatible putty.
Fine block sand down to the base primer, not the AL, re-prime at that point
with sandable primer, finish...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228186#228186
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Pipe for bending leading edge |
Dan, you mean "two flat surfaces with a narrow curved surface in between"...
Carlos
2009/2/2 leinad <leinad@hughes.net>
>
> ...
> One thing I'm not certain about is whether I'll regret not drilling the
> rivet holes before bending. Has anyone done it that way? I'm going to have
> to lay all my holes out on a now curved surface.
> Dan
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS |
Rick-
The question is, does the filler stay put? I've seen too many
projects where the filler cracks and comes loose over time.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Beckman, Rick
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 10:27 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: CLEANING AND FILLING DENTS
Hi, Joe,
I had a couple of dents (minor) from the
delivery of parts. I went to O'Reilly's and got a tube of filler glaze
for the very small dings. I used a good body putty to fill around parts
that I wanted to blend to a contour or just smooth around an add on such
as the tail light. Lightly sand with 600 then 1000 before priming.
Block sand if it is on a curve to hold the radius and not have a flat
spot. It will be impossible to spot after painting.
Rick Beckman
Do not archive
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Pipe for bending leading edge |
Dan-
No, you can lay out your holes on a flat surface. Use a piece of scrap
sheet and drill your holes in it, then duct tape the stock to your nose skin
and transfer using a Sharpie. I believe Larry Mac's site has pictures. For
an XL, compared to the tapered wing of an HDS, this should be a snap.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "leinad" <leinad@hughes.net>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 12:59 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge
>
> Kevin,
> I may drill holes for the next one. The pipe has already been claimed
> for a couple of closet rods, so a few holes won't matter. I had a very
> thin wall piece of brass pipe from a sink drain in a pile of junk and I
> took that and crushed one end in the vice. This became my "nozzle" which
> I fastened to the end of the vacuum cleaner hose. It worked OK but was
> hard to tape in place.
> One thing I'm not certain about is whether I'll regret not drilling the
> rivet holes before bending. Has anyone done it that way? I'm going to
> have to lay all my holes out on a now curved surface.
> Dan
>
>
> kmccune wrote:
>> I t does not look as though you drilled holes in the pipe? I drilled
>> holes along one side down the pipes length for the stab and elevator
>> skins. I assume that you let the vac suck out one end inside the plastic?
>> This is interesting, because I don't want to ruin another pipe by
>> drilling holes in it when I do my wing skin!
>> do not archive
>>
>> Kevin
>
>
> --------
> Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228184#228184
>
>
>
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