Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:33 PM - Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank (leinad)
2. 08:55 PM - Engine Grounding on Jabiru engines (Ron Ellis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Leaky Prosealed Tank |
Andy,
I was planning on welding the tanks, so I had the weldable fittings that ACS sells.
I had also gotten OK at welding the seams with my oxy acetylene set up,
but I just wasn't confident enough to do my tanks with it. These weldable fittings
are riveted from inside the tanks. I pro-sealed and riveted these before
I riveted the seams.
Dan
ashontz wrote:
> Dan, what kind of fitting are you using for the drain? I'm guessing it's some
sort of riveted fitting? I welded that fitting on the first tank I made (as well
as the outlet fitting), but if I can get away without welding either that's
fine by me. Just welded seams suits me fine. The only advantage I see with a
welded drain fitting is that it can be flush welded before I form the tank skin.
>
> One other thing, I moved my fuel sender to the top of the tank like Scott Laughlins.
However, instead of welding an aluminum mounting ring to the tank, I just
made up a horseshoe shaped fitting as a backer plate. The advantage of the
horseshoe shape, I can insert it through the access hole after the fact. If it
ever needs maintenance, like I strip a thread or something, just make a new
one and put it in there. And again, NO WELDING on a problematic part. I've welded
a few fittings, they're a lot harder than edge welds. Edge welds are about
all I want to mess with, but they do look nice. :)
>
>
> leinad wrote:
> > Andy,
> > In fact, to find my slow leak I did have to submerge it. As much as I tried
the soapy water just wasn't cutting it. Bill has a good point though, you
won't be able to submerge the hole tank easily. I only had to submerge the seams
I was inspecting under a few inches of water in my bathtub to find the leak.
My tanks only had about 1 PSI air pressure in them, as I felt that anymore
pressure would have damaged them. To pressurize the tanks i used a bicycle pump
and a nozzle as used on bladder tanks (as in a house on well water). I'll
attach a picture.
> > Dan
> >
> >
> > ashontz wrote:
> > > How about submerging the entire tank in water while it's pressurized and
look for leaks, like they do with car tires at your local Tire World?
> > >
> > > I'm just about to test one of my tanks (welded) and I think I'll do it that
way myself.
> >
>
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231132#231132
Message 2
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| Subject: | Engine Grounding on Jabiru engines |
The Jabiru engine owners may have already seen this, but I was trying to figure
out the best place to attach the ground on the engine block, and decided to ask
Pete where they attach their grounds on the Jabiru aircraft. He referred me
to a Service bulletin that Jabiru released on Sep 1, 08. It shows the best
place to attach, is on one of the starter motor bolts. See JSL 005-1 on the AU
Jab website. I believe Pete said you'll pick up about 100 rpms on the starter
motor by doing this.
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