Zenith-List Digest Archive

Mon 08/10/09


Total Messages Posted: 14



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:08 AM - Re: Top skin rollover ()
     2. 08:13 AM - Re: 601 to 650....is it worth it? (PatrickW)
     3. 09:42 AM - Re: Top skin rollover (Carlos Sa)
     4. 09:52 AM - Re: 601 to 650....is it worth it responses (crvsecretary@aol.com)
     5. 10:46 AM - Re: Top skin rollover (AZFlyer)
     6. 10:47 AM - Re: Top skin rollover (AZFlyer)
     7. 10:55 AM - Re: Re: 601 to 650....is it worth it responses (Bryan Martin)
     8. 12:07 PM - Top skin rollover (Bob McArdle)
     9. 01:18 PM - Chat Room Reminder (George Race)
    10. 01:18 PM - Overvoltage (Gary Thomas)
    11. 02:39 PM - Re: Overvoltage (Craig Payne)
    12. 04:10 PM - centre wing, HD(S) question (Carlos Sa)
    13. 05:20 PM - Re: centre wing, HD(S) question (George Swinford)
    14. 09:39 PM - Re: centre wing, HD(S) question (MHerder)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:08:38 AM PST US
    From: <dredmoody@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Top skin rollover
    << If I were to do it again, I believe I would not roll the skin, but simply finish the outstanding edge with a molded U-channel, ACS p/n 05-01400 or something similar. George Swinford>> I did not have the foresight to anticipate how unsatisfied I would be with tapping that free edge down to the tubing contour. Afterward, I knew that I would never be happy looking at that result everytime I entered and exited the airplane. I bought some automotive radiator hose, cut it length-wise and slipped it over the ugly edge. It has to stop a little bitshort of the bottom on both sides to avoid interferring with the canopy but I can live with that. Now I have a decent looking rubber molding to conceal the middle top skin's forward edge... problem solved. Ed


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:13:47 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 601 to 650....is it worth it?
    From: "PatrickW" <pwhoyt@yahoo.com>
    Guys who are not of above-average height could go with the one-piece XL canopy, but with the 650 latch system. That's the best of both worlds. The two-piece 650 canopy (that I went with) is a lot of work, but the 650 latch system isn't too bad. I'm 6'3", and while I've flown in a number of traditional XL's, the additional head room that the 650 canopy provides is welcome. For tall guys it starts to matter if you're "tall torso'd" or "tall legged". - Pat -------- Patrick XL/650/Corvair N63PZ (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256948#256948


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:42:41 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Top skin rollover
    From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com>
    Scott Laughlin had a nice solution for this. Unfortunately he shutdown his web site, but maybe he'll comment on this thread... Carlos


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:52:17 AM PST US
    Subject: RE: 601 to 650....is it worth it responses
    From: crvsecretary@aol.com
    Hello Listers ! Thank you to everyone who responded...I can always count on all you guys for thoughtful responses. I really like the 650 canopy..even though it is a more difficult build.? I'm hesitant to rework the baggage compartment to 650 specs, but the complexity of the 601 compound curves really have me thinking about it ! And the resale issue makes me want to name it 611-650...or something like that ! Thank you again !! Tracy Smith Naugatuck, CT 601XL working on wings N458XL (reserved) Do Not Archive


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:46:15 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Top skin rollover
    From: "AZFlyer" <millrML@aol.com>
    To minimize the dreaded "buckled edge" on the roll over: double the rivets along the edge, ie. every 25 mm, and cut the edge distance to 7mm. Use a rubber or plastic hammer and go slowly. (picture attached) This same philosophy works at the longeron as well. -------- Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com 601 XL, 3300, Dynon Remember, &quot;the second mouse gets the cheese&quot;! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256976#256976 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0310_042_106.jpg


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:47:15 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Top skin rollover
    From: "AZFlyer" <millrML@aol.com>
    To minimize the dreaded "buckled edge" on the roll over: double the rivets along the edge, ie. every 25 mm, and cut the edge distance to 7mm. Use a rubber or plastic hammer and go slowly. (picture attached) This same philosophy works at the longeron as well. -------- Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com 601 XL, 3300, Dynon Remember, &quot;the second mouse gets the cheese&quot;! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=256977#256977 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0310_042_106.jpg


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:55:18 AM PST US
    From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: RE: 601 to 650....is it worth it responses
    That compound curve is not that big a deal, it just takes patience. Start with the minimum edge distance and work it a little at a time with a wooden block or soft faced hammer. If you don't like the final result, you can always cover it with a strip of leather or rubber trim. On Aug 10, 2009, at 12:48 PM, crvsecretary@aol.com wrote: > Hello Listers ! > > Thank you to everyone who responded...I can always count on all you > guys for thoughtful responses. > > I really like the 650 canopy..even though it is a more difficult > build. I'm hesitant to rework the baggage compartment to 650 specs, > but the complexity of the 601 compound curves really have me > thinking about it ! > > And the resale issue makes me want to name it 611-650...or something > like that ! > > Thank you again !! -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive. do not archive.


    Message 8


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    Time: 12:07:25 PM PST US
    From: "Bob McArdle" <rmacpunk@netzero.net>
    Subject: Top skin rollover
    Thanks to all who responded to my question. Bob


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:18:03 PM PST US
    From: "George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com>
    Subject: Chat Room Reminder
    Live Chat Room every Monday evening around 8:00 EDT www.mykitairplane.com <blocked::blocked::http://www.mykitairplane.com/> Click on the Chat Room link on the page. Need Help Building Your Panel ? Check out my web page for ideas. George Do Not Archive


    Message 10


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    Time: 01:18:03 PM PST US
    From: Gary Thomas <garythomas8708@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Overvoltage
    All, - I'm posting this on the-Aeroelectric list also but, seeing as a number of us share this configuration, I thought I'd try my luck here too. I have a 601XL/Corvair with the standard William Wynne configuration.- I have the John Deere alternator and regulator plus the PMOV overvoltage unit from B&C.- I feel confident that I have it wired correctly since I would get 12V when I switched on the master, and then 14V when I switched on the alternator and started the engine.- Recently I noticed my battery had a low charge, and the voltmeter showed a flat 12V, even with the engine runni ng. I had the battery recharged and load tested (it was fine), and I tested the alternator (around 40V ac on the two wires that lead to the regulator).- The two wires that came out of the regulator and connected to the B&C capa citor were showing just 0.05V or so when I connected each of them separatel y through a voltmeter to a ground.-Clearly a problem. So I bypassed the entire overvoltage setup and connected these tabs dirrect ly to the system bus.- Now I get 14V when the engine is running. I am at a loss to figure out where the problem is.- I believe it must be somewhere in the B&C overvoltage system, but don't know where.- Fuses are all ok. - Any ideas? - Gary -


    Message 11


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    Time: 02:39:58 PM PST US
    From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
    Subject: Overvoltage
    With the OV circuit installed can you monitor the current flow in the lead from the positive terminal capacitor to the "Normally Open" (NO) contact of the relay? Was there 12 volts across the coil of the relay? "The two wires that came out of the regulator and connected to the B&C capacitor were showing just 0.05V or so when I connected each of them separately through a voltmeter to a ground. Clearly a problem. It may be this (from Mark Langford's site): "Subsequent tests have shown that pulling the 12V wire off of terminal 5 will stop the dynamo from charging" http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/dynamo.html -- Craig From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Thomas Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 2:15 PM Subject: Zenith-List: Overvoltage All, I'm posting this on the Aeroelectric list also but, seeing as a number of us share this configuration, I thought I'd try my luck here too. I have a 601XL/Corvair with the standard William Wynne configuration. I have the John Deere alternator and regulator plus the PMOV overvoltage unit from B&C. I feel confident that I have it wired correctly since I would get 12V when I switched on the master, and then 14V when I switched on the alternator and started the engine. Recently I noticed my battery had a low charge, and the voltmeter showed a flat 12V, even with the engine running. I had the battery recharged and load tested (it was fine), and I tested the alternator (around 40V ac on the two wires that lead to the regulator). The two wires that came out of the regulator and connected to the B&C capacitor were showing just 0.05V or so when I connected each of them separately through a voltmeter to a ground. Clearly a problem. So I bypassed the entire overvoltage setup and connected these tabs dirrectly to the system bus. Now I get 14V when the engine is running. I am at a loss to figure out where the problem is. I believe it must be somewhere in the B&C overvoltage system, but don't know where. Fuses are all ok. Any ideas? Gary


    Message 12


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    Time: 04:10:54 PM PST US
    Subject: centre wing, HD(S) question
    From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com>
    Hello, all Did anybody bother to bend plate 6V11-4 to fit the curvature of the wing? I see small gaps at the front and rear, something around 1.0 mm ... see attached file... Carlos CH601-HD, plans


    Message 13


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    Time: 05:20:42 PM PST US
    From: "George Swinford" <grs-pms@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: centre wing, HD(S) question
    Carlos: Yes, I bent that plate. I supported the ends on a couple of pieces of wood and bumped the middle (carefully) with a wood block and hammer. Mine fits the contour perfectly. I also bevelled the edges and put a generous radius on the corners. George Swinford ----- Original Message ----- From: Carlos Sa To: zenith-list@matronics.com Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 3:59 PM Subject: Zenith-List: centre wing, HD(S) question Hello, all Did anybody bother to bend plate 6V11-4 to fit the curvature of the wing? I see small gaps at the front and rear, something around 1.0 mm ... see attached file... Carlos CH601-HD, plans


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:39:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: centre wing, HD(S) question
    From: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
    I didn't bother, I figured the amount of A5 rivets in there would suck it tight, and I was right. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt either way though. Good luck and keep trucking along. I agree 100 percent with taking your time to round those corners good and beveling, its smart structurally and that plate is pretty visible, so make it look right. -------- One Rivet at a Time! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=257084#257084




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