Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:51 AM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (FLYaDIVE)
2. 06:09 AM - Re:Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Juan Vega)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Juan Vega)
4. 06:42 AM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Juan Vega)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Juan Vega)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Michel Therrien)
7. 09:07 AM - Chat Reminder (George Race)
8. 12:03 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Randy L. Thwing)
9. 12:03 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (JohnDRead@aol.com)
10. 02:25 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (jaybannist@cs.com)
11. 02:25 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (FLYaDIVE)
12. 02:56 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (ronlee)
13. 03:53 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Michel Therrien)
14. 03:53 PM - Re: Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Michel Therrien)
15. 03:56 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Jim Belcher)
16. 05:48 PM - First Flight N601T (Jeff)
17. 06:22 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Lawrence Webber)
18. 06:36 PM - Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) (Lawrence Webber)
19. 08:02 PM - Re: First Flight N601T (Michel Therrien)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Mike:
VERY GOOD JOB. It does LQQK nice. A bit slower and a rounded bit would
prevent the score lines on the inside taper.
BUT! Have you inserted the Woodruff key? You may find the problem goes
away once inserted. BUT! Watch out for wobble.
The next thing you can do is make the center bigger and insert a sleeve. Or
get some shim stock and metal bonding CA glue. Shim up the difference and
you will be good to go.
How did you do the keyway?
Barry
On Sun, Mar 7, 2010 at 5:08 PM, Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi folks (especially those of you that are machinists ;-)
>
> I made pulley for my alternator from an aluminum plate. I have a lathe,
> but I'm far from being a machinist.
>
> I was pretty proud of me until about half an hour ago. I made the center
> hole about .003 to .004 to large in diameter. (ouch!) (I cut .0015 to .002
> too much). Now, the pulley is pretty slack on the shaft. Is there a good
> way to make it the proper size (adonizing, other means) that will be
> reliable... or do I need to start over and use this one as a failure trophy
> in my workshop?
>
> Thanks!
>
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your
> favourite sites. Download it now
>
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
send it to a plasma coater, or get a better fitting peice. Dont half ass it.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Mar 7, 2010 9:49 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re:Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
>
>
>Thanks guys,
>
>
>After I wrote my inquiry, I was thinking of a couple of simpler approaches...
Anodizing puts .001" of material back... which may make the pulley OK....?
>
>Another tought.. but not sure about that one... Putting a layer of JB weld and
back on the lathe to size it properly (should I trust jb weld enough for that
purpose? I know I "welded" my fluting tool for the ribs with that at the beginning
my my project in 1999 and the pins and plates are still in place (and the
tool fell off several times).
>
>If not... I guess I'll just start from another block of aluminum...
>
>
>----------------------------
>Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
>Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
>http://www.flickr.com/gift/
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
ron is correct, a full wrapp shim may work. cheep and easiest way. recoat or
redo just takes more time.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron Lendon <ron.lendon@gmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 7, 2010 10:10 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
>
>
>If it is a permanent mount you can shim the assembly. Use one piece of shim stock
cut to the width of pulley wrapped completely around the shaft except for
the area where the key is.
>
>Or just make another one, it's all about learning anyway.
>
>--------
>Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
>WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
>Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
>http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289590#289590
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
problem with a shim is it will be off balance and cause a vibration.
rebuild or build up the layer and remill.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 8, 2010 8:40 AM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
>
>Mike:
>
>VERY GOOD JOB. It does LQQK nice. A bit slower and a rounded bit would
>prevent the score lines on the inside taper.
>
>BUT! Have you inserted the Woodruff key? You may find the problem goes
>away once inserted. BUT! Watch out for wobble.
>
>The next thing you can do is make the center bigger and insert a sleeve. Or
>get some shim stock and metal bonding CA glue. Shim up the difference and
>you will be good to go.
>
>How did you do the keyway?
>
>Barry
>
>
>On Sun, Mar 7, 2010 at 5:08 PM, Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi folks (especially those of you that are machinists ;-)
>>
>> I made pulley for my alternator from an aluminum plate. I have a lathe,
>> but I'm far from being a machinist.
>>
>> I was pretty proud of me until about half an hour ago. I made the center
>> hole about .003 to .004 to large in diameter. (ouch!) (I cut .0015 to .002
>> too much). Now, the pulley is pretty slack on the shaft. Is there a good
>> way to make it the proper size (adonizing, other means) that will be
>> reliable... or do I need to start over and use this one as a failure trophy
>> in my workshop?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> ----------------------------
>> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
>> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
>> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your
>> favourite sites. Download it now
>>
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
looking at the picture, you just need to have a plasma coater add the metal back
on. or its cheeper to rebuild new one.
Juan
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Mar 7, 2010 5:08 PM
>To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
>
>Hi folks (especially those of you that are machinists ;-)
>
>I made pulley for my alternator from an aluminum plate. I have a lathe, but I'm
far from being a machinist.
>
>I was pretty proud of me until about half an hour ago. I made the center hole
about .003 to .004 to large in diameter. (ouch!) (I cut .0015 to .002 too much).
Now, the pulley is pretty slack on the shaft. Is there a good way to make
it the proper size (adonizing, other means) that will be reliable... or do I
need to start over and use this one as a failure trophy in my workshop?
>
>Thanks!
>
>----------------------------
>Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
>Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
I bought an expensive broach with the appropriate collet. So far this is an 80$
pulley and still spending... ;-)
I think the sleeve idea is not bad, but if I have to redo machine work, i might
be as good to start over. And I am not precise enough with my tools to machine
a press-fit assembly (.001 or .002 under clearance) with enough assurance.
I am surprised nobody liked the JB Weld approach... after all, I only need .0015"
or .002" of it. That thing has many uses including (for automotive):
- cracked engine blocks
- transmission & rear-end casings
- cylinder heads & sleeves
- axles & hubs
- valve guides
- press fit bearings
- crankshaft pulleys
- casting defects
- key ways
- stripped threads
It provides nearly 4000 psi of tensile strenght and it is good for up to 500F.
And if it could be good enough, that would save me about 6 hours of re-fabricating
one (and buying the stock aluminum to start over).
Is there any warning against that?
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon, 3/8/10, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> VERY GOOD JOB. It does LQQK nice. A bit slower and
> a rounded bit would prevent the score lines on the inside
> taper.
>
> BUT! Have you inserted the Woodruff key? You may
> find the problem goes away once inserted. BUT! Watch out
> for wobble.
>
> The next thing you can do is make the center bigger
> and insert a sleeve. Or get some shim stock and metal
> bonding CA glue. Shim up the difference and you will be
> good to go.
>
> How did you do the keyway?
>
> Barry
>
__________________________________________________________________
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Live Chat Room every Monday evening around 8:00 EDT
www.mykitairplane.com <blocked::http://www.mykitairplane.com/>
Click on the Chat Room link at the top of the page.
George
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
do not archive
Is knurling an option? If you are only seeking .002", even .002" per side,
it shouldn't take much to raise that much material in AL with an ID knurling
tool.
Don't know the cost of the tool, maybe someone has one to loan.
ganurling, kanarling, you know, those little diamond shapes that raise metal
above the surface.
Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
>
> I bought an expensive broach with the appropriate collet. So far this is
> an 80$ pulley and still spending... ;-)
>
> I think the sleeve idea is not bad, but if I have to redo machine work, i
> might be as good to start over. And I am not precise enough with my tools
> to machine a press-fit assembly (.001 or .002 under clearance) with enough
> assurance.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Michel;
I do not think there are any uses of JB Weld where one would
not want to keep the wheels on the ground!!
Regards, John
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Michel,
I have found that JBWeld is great with steel, not so great with aluminum.
I had quite a few failures to bond with aluminum before I reached that
conclusion.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 8, 2010 8:40 am
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
I bought an expensive broach with the appropriate collet. So far this is
an 80$
pulley and still spending... ;-)
I think the sleeve idea is not bad, but if I have to redo machine work, i
might
be as good to start over. And I am not precise enough with my tools to ma
chine
a press-fit assembly (.001 or .002 under clearance) with enough assurance.
I am surprised nobody liked the JB Weld approach... after all, I only need
.0015" or .002" of it. That thing has many uses including (for automotive
):
- cracked engine blocks
- transmission & rear-end casings
- cylinder heads & sleeves
- axles & hubs
- valve guides
- press fit bearings
- crankshaft pulleys
- casting defects
- key ways
- stripped threads
It provides nearly 4000 psi of tensile strenght and it is good for up to
500F.
And if it could be good enough, that would save me about 6 hours of
re-fabricating one (and buying the stock aluminum to start over).
Is there any warning against that?
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon, 3/8/10, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> VERY GOOD JOB. It does LQQK nice. A bit slower and
> a rounded bit would prevent the score lines on the inside
> taper.
>
> BUT! Have you inserted the Woodruff key? You may
> find the problem goes away once inserted. BUT! Watch out
> for wobble.
>
> The next thing you can do is make the center bigger
> and insert a sleeve. Or get some shim stock and metal
> bonding CA glue. Shim up the difference and you will be
> good to go.
>
> How did you do the keyway?
>
> Barry
>
__________________________________________________________________
The new Internet Explorer=C2=AE 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Plasma coating is NOT the way to go. There are so many things to wrong with
that process:
1 - It is a hand operation - In this case
2 - It is inside a through hole - Very difficult to get a uniform coating
3 - It is OPERATOR dependent
4 - HEAT is going to be high on the issue list - Again operator dependent
5 - The part has to be VERY roughly sand blasted 20 to 40 grit - And there
is a sharp edge that won't be any more ... More machining.
The idea of using Hard Coat Anodizing is a good one. But the build up is
NOT 100% build up.
Example: a coating of 0.002" is ONLY a build up of 0.001" and a penetration
of 0.001". The coating shop calls that a 0.002" Coating. IF - The hole
dimension is off by 0.003" you will need a build up of 0.0015" per side so
that means a coating of 0.003"
THAT is difficult to do on many aluminum's, especially 2024. I don't
recall, what was the sheave was made from?
AND don't forget - - - They will have to mask the key-way. Masking is the
costly part of the job. The rest of the part could be coated.
Shimming will NOT cause the the sheave to go off balance. If that was the
case the Woodruff Key would cause it to go off balance. Also the weight
distribution is so close to the centripetal center that a much larger mass
would be need to cause an out of balance condition. BUT! If you have the
opportunity to do so... BALANCE the alternator rotor and still if you have
the equipment... Do it in the housing.
Barry
On Mon, Mar 8, 2010 at 9:07 AM, Juan Vega <amyvega2005@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> looking at the picture, you just need to have a plasma coater add the
> metal back on. or its cheeper to rebuild new one.
> Juan
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
> >Sent: Mar 7, 2010 5:08 PM
> >To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
> >
> >Hi folks (especially those of you that are machinists ;-)
> >
> >I made pulley for my alternator from an aluminum plate. I have a lathe,
> but I'm far from being a machinist.
> >
> >I was pretty proud of me until about half an hour ago. I made the center
> hole about .003 to .004 to large in diameter. (ouch!) (I cut .0015 to .002
> too much). Now, the pulley is pretty slack on the shaft. Is there a good
> way to make it the proper size (adonizing, other means) that will be
> reliable... or do I need to start over and use this one as a failure trophy
> in my workshop?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >----------------------------
> >Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
> > http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> > http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________________
> >Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your
> favourite sites. Download it now
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Consider the consequences if it should fail. After all this isn't going on a garden
tractor!
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=289686#289686
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Thanks for the response... The material is 6061-T6.
The pulley is the one going on the engine side, not the alternator side.
If I get the part anodized, I could recut the key hole after (?)
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon, 3/8/10, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Received: Monday, March 8, 2010, 4:47 PM
> Plasma coating is NOT the way to go.
> There are so many things to wrong with that process:
> 1 - It is a hand operation - In this case
> 2 - It is inside a through hole - Very difficult to
> get a uniform coating
> 3 - It is OPERATOR dependent
> 4 - HEAT is going to be high on the issue list - Again
> operator dependent
> 5 - The part has to be VERY roughly sand blasted 20 to
> 40 grit - And there is a sharp edge that won't be any
> more ... More machining.
>
> The idea of using Hard Coat Anodizing is a good one.
> But the build up is NOT 100% build up.
> Example: a coating of 0.002" is ONLY a build up
> of 0.001" and a penetration of 0.001". The
> coating shop calls that a 0.002" Coating. IF - The
> hole dimension is off by 0.003" you will need a build
> up of 0.0015" per side so that means a coating of
> 0.003"
>
> THAT is difficult to do on many aluminum's,
> especially 2024. I don't recall, what was the sheave
> was made from?
> AND don't forget - - - They will have to mask the
> key-way. Masking is the costly part of the job. The rest
> of the part could be coated.
>
> Shimming will NOT cause the thesheave to go off
> balance. If that was the case the Woodruff Key would cause
> it to go off balance. Also the weight distribution is so
> close to the centripetal center that a much larger mass
> would be need to cause an out of balance condition. BUT!
> If you have the opportunity to do so... BALANCE the
> alternator rotor and still if you have the equipment... Do
> it in the housing.
__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Well. this is exactly what I thought about and I did not readilly see consequences...
the pulley will be attached very tightly to the shaft using a 1/2" lock
nut and washer (it is not just pressed fit.. It has a woodruf key and if the
materials wears out (which I don't know how it would do that since there is no
relative movement), the most the pulley will move is .002". All the material
around the hole is thick, and solid. I'm no expert... could it cause the lock
nut to unscrew itself?
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon, 3/8/10, ronlee <rlee468@comcast.net> wrote:
> Consider the consequences if it should fail. After all this
> isn't going on a garden tractor!
>
> --------
> Ron Lee
> Tucson, Arizona
do not archive
__________________________________________________________________
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
The problem with JB Weld is that (as far as I'm aware) it does not have any
tested, documented properties. At least, not the kind of testing really needed
for aircraft use. It may work fine; it may not.
I might consider it for something that was not moving, did not require defined
structural properties, or was not subjected to vibration.
I once heard a fellow staunchly defending a repair he made to his prop with JB
Weld. And that was on a certificated aircraft!
On Monday 08 March 2010 08:40:52 you wrote:
>
> I bought an expensive broach with the appropriate collet. So far this is
> an 80$ pulley and still spending... ;-)
>
> I think the sleeve idea is not bad, but if I have to redo machine work, i
> might be as good to start over. And I am not precise enough with my tools
> to machine a press-fit assembly (.001 or .002 under clearance) with enough
> assurance.
>
> I am surprised nobody liked the JB Weld approach... after all, I only need
> .0015" or .002" of it. That thing has many uses including (for
> automotive): - cracked engine blocks
> - transmission & rear-end casings
> - cylinder heads & sleeves
> - axles & hubs
> - valve guides
> - press fit bearings
> - crankshaft pulleys
> - casting defects
> - key ways
> - stripped threads
>
> It provides nearly 4000 psi of tensile strenght and it is good for up to
> 500F. And if it could be good enough, that would save me about 6 hours of
> re-fabricating one (and buying the stock aluminum to start over).
>
> Is there any warning against that?
>
--
=======================================
Jim B. Belcher
BS,MS Physics
A&P/IA
General Radio Telephone Certificate
Instrument Rated Pilot
Retired Aerospace Technical Manager
Semi-proficient Househusband
=======================================
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| Subject: | First Flight N601T |
WARRENTON, Virginia - Today Sunday March 7, 2010 another homebuilt aircraft
took to the skies. Test pilot Bob Garity took Zenair Zodiac N601T up for
its first flight. This CH601-HD two-seat aircraft was built by local pilot
and builder Jeff Davidson. Mr. Davidson headed up a ground crew of local
pilots. The ground crew was ready on foot, bicycle, and motorized vehicles.
Mr. Garity reported that all systems worked well and that the plane flew
with no bad characteristics. The only squawk concerned the volume of the
communications radio during transmissions. A previous attempt occurred on
Friday March 5th. That attempt ended with a dead battery. Charged up and
pre-heated today the plane started easily. Pilot Garity indicated that
starting the engine with the throttle at idle helped start it easily. With
this technique, the engine started in just 2-3 blades. Once airborne
several touch and goes were performed. With a busy pattern, at least two
go-arounds were performed. Acceleration on take off was reported to be
excellent and landings were characterized as easy with no bad
characteristics on the ground. The test flight was conducted entirely in
the Warrenton (HWY) traffic pattern. Some pictures are attached. Builder
Davidson reported that the second flight will follow in short order.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Jim ? would you go flying with that guy and his jb welded prop?
DO NO ARCHIVE
Larry
> From: Z601c@anemicaardvark.com
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
> Date: Mon=2C 8 Mar 2010 17:31:39 -0600
>
>
> The problem with JB Weld is that (as far as I'm aware) it does not have a
ny
> tested=2C documented properties. At least=2C not the kind of testing real
ly needed
> for aircraft use. It may work fine=3B it may not.
>
> I might consider it for something that was not moving=2C did not require
defined
> structural properties=2C or was not subjected to vibration.
>
> I once heard a fellow staunchly defending a repair he made to his prop wi
th JB
> Weld. And that was on a certificated aircraft!
>
> On Monday 08 March 2010 08:40:52 you wrote:
> >
> > I bought an expensive broach with the appropriate collet. So far this i
s
> > an 80$ pulley and still spending... =3B-)
> >
> > I think the sleeve idea is not bad=2C but if I have to redo machine wor
k=2C i
> > might be as good to start over. And I am not precise enough with my too
ls
> > to machine a press-fit assembly (.001 or .002 under clearance) with eno
ugh
> > assurance.
> >
> > I am surprised nobody liked the JB Weld approach... after all=2C I only
need
> > .0015" or .002" of it. That thing has many uses including (for
> > automotive): - cracked engine blocks
> > - transmission & rear-end casings
> > - cylinder heads & sleeves
> > - axles & hubs
> > - valve guides
> > - press fit bearings
> > - crankshaft pulleys
> > - casting defects
> > - key ways
> > - stripped threads
> >
> > It provides nearly 4000 psi of tensile strenght and it is good for up t
o
> > 500F. And if it could be good enough=2C that would save me about 6 hour
s of
> > re-fabricating one (and buying the stock aluminum to start over).
> >
> > Is there any warning against that?
> >
> --
> ========================
===============
> Jim B. Belcher
> BS=2CMS Physics
> A&P/IA
> General Radio Telephone Certificate
> Instrument Rated Pilot
> Retired Aerospace Technical Manager
> Semi-proficient Househusband
> ========================
===============
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley) |
Michel why not just insert some precision shim stock to remove play whate
ver you use to hold pulley on will contain shim stock. if the shim is wrapp
ed around the shaft=2C the keyway will prevent any oscillationsof pulley
=2C we used this on high rpm machinery 8to 12k rpm for months and months wi
thout a single failure and this equipment went thru lots of rapid de-accele
ration cycles....
for what its worth
Larry
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
From: jaybannist@cs.com
Michel=2C
I have found that JBWeld is great with steel=2C not so great with aluminum.
I had quite a few failures to bond with aluminum before I reached that co
nclusion.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon=2C Mar 8=2C 2010 8:40 am
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Reducing a hole diameter? (alternator pulley)
I bought an expensive broach with the appropriate collet. So far this is a
n 80$
pulley and still spending... =3B-)
I think the sleeve idea is not bad=2C but if I have to redo machine work=2C
i might
be as good to start over. And I am not precise enough with my tools to mac
hine
a press-fit assembly (.001 or .002 under clearance) with enough assurance.
I am surprised nobody liked the JB Weld approach... after all=2C I only nee
d
.0015" or .002" of it. That thing has many uses including (for automotive)
:
- cracked engine blocks
- transmission & rear-end casings
- cylinder heads & sleeves
- axles & hubs
- valve guides
- press fit bearings
- crankshaft pulleys
- casting defects
- key ways
- stripped threads
It provides nearly 4000 psi of tensile strenght and it is good for up to 50
0F.
And if it could be good enough=2C that would save me about 6 hours of
re-fabricating one (and buying the stock aluminum to start over).
Is there any warning against that?
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD=2C C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon=2C 3/8/10=2C FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> VERY GOOD JOB. It does LQQK nice. A bit slower and
> a rounded bit would prevent the score lines on the inside
> taper.
>
> BUT! Have you inserted the Woodruff key? You may
> find the problem goes away once inserted. BUT! Watch out
> for wobble.
>
> The next thing you can do is make the center bigger
> and insert a sleeve. Or get some shim stock and metal
> bonding CA glue. Shim up the difference and you will be
> good to go.
>
> How did you do the keyway?
>
> Barry
>
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The new Internet Explorer=AE 8 - Faster=2C safer=2C easier. Optimized for
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight N601T |
Congrats Jeff! Well done!
do not archive
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon, 3/8/10, Jeff <jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net> wrote:
> From: Jeff <jeffrey_davidson@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Zenith-List: First Flight N601T
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Received: Monday, March 8, 2010, 10:20 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> WARRENTON,
> Virginia - Today Sunday March 7, 2010 another
> homebuilt aircraft took to the skies. Test pilot Bob
> Garity took Zenair
> Zodiac N601T up for its first flight. This CH601-HD
> two-seat aircraft was
> built by local pilot and builder Jeff Davidson. Mr.
> Davidson headed up a
> ground crew of local pilots. The ground crew was
> ready on foot, bicycle,
> and motorized vehicles. Mr. Garity reported
> that all systems worked
> well and that the plane flew with no bad
> characteristics. The only squawk
> concerned the volume of the communications radio during
> transmissions. A
> previous attempt occurred on Friday March 5th. That
> attempt ended with a
> dead battery. Charged up and pre-heated today the
> plane started
> easily. Pilot Garity indicated that starting the
> engine with the throttle
> at idle helped start it easily. With this technique,
> the engine started
> in just 2-3 blades. Once airborne several touch and
> goes were
> performed. With a busy pattern, at least two
> go-arounds were
> performed. Acceleration on take off was reported to
> be excellent and
> landings were characterized as easy with no bad
> characteristics on the
> ground. The test flight was conducted entirely in the
> Warrenton (HWY)
> traffic pattern. Some pictures are attached.
> Builder Davidson reported
> that the second flight will follow in short
> order.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
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