Zenith-List Digest Archive

Sun 04/04/10


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:00 AM - Chat Reminder for "Digesters" (George Race)
     2. 06:30 AM - Re: fuel-safe "grease" for Viton o-rings (FLYaDIVE)
     3. 04:37 PM - 601HD(S): bottom fuse skin (Carlos Sa)
     4. 06:09 PM - Re: [Probable Spam] 601HD(S): bottom fuse skin (Larry McFarland)
     5. 09:33 PM - Re: [Probable Spam] 601HD(S): bottom fuse skin (Carlos Sa)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:00:16 AM PST US
    From: "George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com>
    Subject: Chat Reminder for "Digesters"
    Live Chat Room every Monday evening around 8:00 EDT www.mykitairplane.com <blocked::http://www.mykitairplane.com/> Check out my line of items for Experimental Airplane Builders My Products: www.mykitairplane.com/Products/


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:30:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: fuel-safe "grease" for Viton o-rings
    From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
    Craig: Viton & Buna -N are very similar to each other with Viton have a ability to hold up against radiation. I don't think your plane runs off of nuclear enegery yet ;-) There are two lubes that can be used VERY successfully and EVERYONE that has a fuel selector should have one in their took box - Parker Lube <--- VERY EXPENSIVE and I stay away from ANYTHING Parker - Hanifin makes, produces, sells or distributes. The other is EZ-Turn which is FANTASTIC stuff and very reasionable ($12) a 5 oz tube will last you for years. When you touch it you will swear this stuff is like rubber cement. But once applied you will love the feel and action of the turning qualities. PLEASE refrain from using it as a sex jell. :-) Barry On Sat, Apr 3, 2010 at 6:48 PM, Craig Payne <craig@craigandjean.com> wrote: > I'm mounting fitting adapters on my Andair gascolator and they seal to the > body with Viton o-rings. I'd like to replenish the film of grease on the > o-rings and am wondering what kind of grease to use. Searching on the web > indicates that silicon grease can be used on Viton o-rings but it is not > clear if the grease is fuel-proof. I'll send a query to Andair on Monday but > I was wondering if anyone had any advice. If there is a recommended product > a source would be useful too. > > -- Craig > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:37:52 PM PST US
    Subject: 601HD(S): bottom fuse skin
    From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com>
    As I examined the fuselage plans, I noticed the bottom skin sides aren't straight: where the front (6F1-1) and rear (6F1-2) parts join, there is an angle. This raised a concern: as the bottom longeron is straight, won't I have problems with edge distance when I drill holes on the longeron? (see attached drawing - obviously not on scale - where the blue part is 6F1-2, the blue part is 6F1-1 and the longeron is the long blue rectangle). Or I could make the bottom ski straight, but this could have a ripple effect (i.e., 6F1-2 (front H.T. frame) might need to be wider, which would in turn affect 6F2-6 (rear panel, top) and God know what else...). I would appreciate any comments from those that have been there (and still remember). Carlos CH601-HD, plans Montreal, Canada


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:09:36 PM PST US
    From: Larry McFarland <larry@macsmachine.com>
    Subject: Re: 601HD(S): bottom fuse skin
    I remember the problem Carlos, but the way I resolved it was by looking at the last two bulkheads and their relative positions. The rudder pivot plates and extreme forward width required. With a 20mm overlap of these two pieces, bulkheads in place, or calculated for width, I believe I made my second tail piece and allowed for the best fit to align side edges with start of the radius of the standard angle. Getting proper edge distance using this approach make problems nearly inconsequential and the sides remain straight. See attached links. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/fuselage/full/fusaline.gif http://www.macsmachine.com/images/fuselage/full/boxframe.gif Best regards, Larry McFarland Carlos Sa wrote: > As I examined the fuselage plans, I noticed the bottom skin sides > aren't straight: where the front (6F1-1) and rear (6F1-2) parts join, > there is an angle. > > This raised a concern: as the bottom longeron is straight, won't I > have problems with edge distance when I drill holes on the longeron? > (see attached drawing - obviously not on scale - where the blue part > is 6F1-2, the blue part is 6F1-1 and the longeron is the long blue > rectangle). > > Or I could make the bottom ski straight, but this could have a ripple > effect (i.e., 6F1-2 (front H.T. frame) might need to be wider, which > would in turn affect 6F2-6 (rear panel, top) and God know what else...). > > I would appreciate any comments from those that have been there (and > still remember). > > > Carlos > CH601-HD, plans > Montreal, Canada > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:33:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: 601HD(S): bottom fuse skin
    From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com>
    Larry, it appears you understood my concern - but I don't understand what you are saying. Did you position the second tail frame differently from the plans? or did you make a rear bottom skin different from the plans, so the sides of 6F1-1 and -2 make a straight line ? (I don't understand the sentence "The rudder pivot plates and extreme forward width required.") Your sentence at the end ("...the sides remain straight.") seems to indicate that you did modify 6F1-1 and/or -2 ... Thanks for the links to the pictures - I have stared at them for a while, but I don't feel enlightened... Attached is my modified diagram, now a little closer to the actual proportions of the parts involved. The red dotted line represents the rivet line. Thanks for your time and patience... Carlos On 4 April 2010 21:06, Larry McFarland <larry@macsmachine.com> wrote: > > I remember the problem Carlos, > but the way I resolved it was by looking at the last two bulkheads and > their relative positions. The rudder pivot plates and > extreme forward width required. With a 20mm overlap of these two pieces, > bulkheads in place, or calculated for width, > I believe I made my second tail piece and allowed for the best fit to align > side edges with start of the radius of the standard angle. > Getting proper edge distance using this approach make problems nearly > inconsequential and the sides remain straight. > See attached links. > http://www.macsmachine.com/images/fuselage/full/fusaline.gif > http://www.macsmachine.com/images/fuselage/full/boxframe.gif > > Best regards, > > Larry McFarland > >




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