Today's Message Index:
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1. 10:33 AM - SEALING A FUEL TANK (FLYaDIVE)
2. 10:53 AM - Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK (Steve Russell)
3. 11:35 AM - Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK (FLYaDIVE)
4. 04:26 PM - Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK (purplemoon99@bellsouth.net)
5. 09:53 PM - A Riveting Experience: Some Insights(?) (Long) (Terry Phillips)
Message 1
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| Subject: | SEALING A FUEL TANK |
Hey Guys:
I am looking for information on ways to seal a fuel tank.
I have seen in the ACS catalog a product called SLOSH COMPOUND
(PR-1005-L). There is also a product Randolph 802.
I believe my requirements are simple:
Seal an aluminum tank
Seal against AVGAS
Seal against MoGas
Seal against MoGas w/ethanol.
Would anyone have any recommendations?
Thanks Gaggle.
Barry
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK |
check out Proseal from Vans, it is what they use to make their tanks.
Steve Russell 701 plans
----- Original Message -----
From: "FLYaDIVE" <flyadive@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 12:29:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Zenith-List: SEALING A FUEL TANK
Hey Guys:
I am looking for information on ways to seal a fuel tank.
I have seen in the ACS catalog a product called SLOSH COMPOUND
(PR-1005-L). There is also a product Randolph 802.
I believe my requirements are simple:
Seal an aluminum tank
Seal against AVGAS
Seal against MoGas
Seal against MoGas w/ethanol.
Would anyone have any recommendations?
Thanks Gaggle.
Barry
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK |
Steve:
Van's has tank sealant but I did not find SLOSHING SEALER.
Barry
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 1:52 PM, Steve Russell <steve@cccparis.com> wrote:
>
> check out Proseal from Vans, it is what they use to make their tanks.
> Steve Russell 701 plans
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "FLYaDIVE" <flyadive@gmail.com>
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 12:29:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Zenith-List: SEALING A FUEL TANK
>
>
> Hey Guys:
>
> I am looking for information on ways to seal a fuel tank.
> I have seen in the ACS catalog a product called SLOSH COMPOUND
> (PR-1005-L). There is also a product Randolph 802.
>
> I believe my requirements are simple:
> Seal an aluminum tank
> Seal against AVGAS
> Seal against MoGas
> Seal against MoGas w/ethanol.
>
> Would anyone have any recommendations?
>
> Thanks Gaggle.
>
> Barry
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK |
Barry, the vans sealent work's , but you'll have to remove the tank.after y
ou pull the tank you shoot it along the welded edges and wipe it in with yo
ur gloved fingers ,let it dry and do it again build it up all anong the sea
ms and fittings . One tube will do both tanks .As far as sloshing the tank,
have at it ,but- we 're going to be reading about you in the news paper.
Sloch is for thing's that stay on the ground...and it's best to leave it th
at way no matter whose prod it is.-- Joe N101HD 601 XL-B=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>=0ATo
: zenith-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Fri, May 28, 2010 1:29:10 PM=0ASubject:
LYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>=0A=0AHey Guys:=0A=0AI am looking for informati
on on ways to seal a fuel tank.=0AI have seen in the ACS catalog a product
called SLOSH COMPOUND=0A(PR-1005-L).- There is also a product Randolph 80
2.=0A=0AI believe my requirements are simple:=0ASeal an aluminum tank=0ASea
l against AVGAS=0ASeal against MoGas=0ASeal against MoGas w/ethanol.=0A=0AW
ould anyone have any recommendations?=0A=0AThanks Gaggle.=0A=0ABarry=0A=0A_
-========================
============
Message 5
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| Subject: | A Riveting Experience: Some Insights(?) (Long) |
Moving ever so slowly, I have finally riveted the extruded angle to my
right wing spar cap. I think that I learned some things that may be useful
to others who are upgrading even more slowly than I.
I started rivet practice way back in February using two different 3X rivet
guns with AN470AD-6-16 rivets from Spruce and some aluminum bars from
Pacific Steel. After going through almost half a pound of rivets, I
concluded that I could not drive those rivets consistently with a 3X gun. I
could count on 10 or 11 out of 12 good ones. I concluded that I was just a
klutz, because I knew that other builders had used 3X guns with success.
Fortunately for me, a builder from EAA517 loaned me a rivet tool that he
had built years ago to set the rivets in an RV-4 spar. That tool plus 4
whacks from a 4 lb sledge will really set a AN470AD-6-16 rivet--perfectly,
every time. All one has to do is not hit the spar with the hammer--but
that's another story.
Before I began setting the AN470AD-6-16 rivets in my wing, I had one last
practice session with my bars. Just for sport, I also set one of the
AN470AD-6-14 rivets supplied by Zenair with the upgrade kit. I checked the
length of the -16 and the -14 rivets using the handy dandy Avery rivet
length gage. Sure enough, the -16's were ~1/32" or so too long, and the -14
was ~1/8" (probably 3/32") too short. When I checked the shop heads with
the Avery shop head gage, the -16's were just fine, but the -14 head was
just under the thickness spec and was definitely deficient in diameter.
Hmmm .....
Of course, Zenair does not recognize the Avery rivet gage--Zenair has their
own Construction Standards. So, I measured the -14 shop head (D=6.6mm &
h=1.7mm) and found that the shop head does meet Zenair's Construction
Standard CS#403. It does not, however, meet the Mil Spec Standard. Zenair's
construction standards for AD-6 rivets (6.0<=D<=8.1mm and 1.4<=h<=3.8mm)
are more permissive than MIL-R-47196A (D>=6.2mm and 1.9<=h<=2.7mm) where D
is the shop head diameter and h is the shop head thickness. (It turns out
that the Avery gage measures D=7.1mm and h=2.4mm, which are Zenair's
"nominals." You can see photos of the Avery gages in my Kitlog entries).
So, what's going on here? Here are some conjectures:
* Zenair chose to supply rivets which are really too short for the
application. Possibly these are the same rivets used in the upgraded wing
reported on in the load tests of 9/28/09. Of course, the spar-root-doubler
thickness in those tests was 0.063" vs. 0.125" in the upgrade specs.
* I believe that one of Zenair's major objectives was to make the
upgrade process as easy as possible for their customers. Since the -14
rivets can be driven to meet CS#403, Zenair may have supplied the -14
rivets instead of -16 rivets to ease the upgrade process.
* The standard solid rivet shank height above the base metal is 3/2
times the shank diameter. So, the volume of aluminum that must be formed
with the -14 rivet equals ((3/2)*(3/16)-1/8)/(3/2*3/16) = 5/9 = 56% of the
metal in the -16 rivets. Thus, to a first order approximation, the -14
rivets need ~56% of the energy input from the rivet gun that is required
for a -16 rivet gun.
* So, it is very possible that a 3X gun would do an acceptable job on
the -14 rivets for some builders who would need a 4X gun to drive the -16
rivets consistently.
My conclusion from all this is that if you use the Zenair supplied
AN470AD-6-14 rivets, then a 3X rivet gun may give you satisfactory
results--mind you, I haven't tried it. But if you are using rivets that
meet the (3/2)*(rivet diameter) rule for rivet shank length, you may have a
lot more problem with a 3X gun.
Terry
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;
Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
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