Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:11 AM - Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK (Klaus Truemper)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK (n801bh@netzero.com)
3. 08:35 AM - Tank Sloshing (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
4. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK (Michel Therrien)
5. 03:32 PM - Canopy Gas Springs ()
6. 03:43 PM - Re: Canopy Gas Springs (Peter W Johnson)
7. 04:52 PM - Re: Tank Sloshing (n801bh@netzero.com)
8. 05:45 PM - Re: Canopy Gas Springs (Craig Payne)
9. 06:31 PM - Re: Canopy Gas Springs (DaveG601XL)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK |
Hi,
I have been told from an RV builder that the sloshing compound may be attacked
by autogas. If you will ONLY use 100LL, then it may be okay. But if you are planning
to use autogas, then the strong solvent properties of autogas may well attack the
sloshing compound, and the crumbling compound may block fuel flow.
That happened to the RV builder.
It was a nightmare to get the flaking stuff out of the tank.
Sealing from outside: When I was faced with leak problems, I simply sealed ALL
seams from the outside. That solved the problem for a while. Then I decided to
have all tanks remade by a reliable company. Their welding was first rate, and
since then there have been no leaks whatsoever.
Good luck, and happy flying,
Klaus
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK |
Properly applied and using the correct product sloshing compound will wo
rk great. I have 6+ years and several thousands of gallons of 10% alcoho
l laced auto fuel run through my system with NO degrading of the product
, NO delamination, NO flaking....
Your mileage may vary. <GG>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Klaus Truemper <klaus@utdallas.edu>
.edu>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK
Hi,
I have been told from an RV builder that the sloshing compound may be at
tacked
by autogas. If you will ONLY use 100LL, then it may be okay. But if you
are planning
to use autogas, then the strong solvent properties of autogas may well a
ttack the
sloshing compound, and the crumbling compound may block fuel flow.
That happened to the RV builder.
It was a nightmare to get the flaking stuff out of the tank.
Sealing from outside: When I was faced with leak problems, I simply seal
ed ALL
seams from the outside. That solved the problem for a while. Then I deci
ded to
have all tanks remade by a reliable company. Their welding was first rat
e, and
since then there have been no leaks whatsoever.
Good luck, and happy flying,
Klaus
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Message 3
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List,
I can add to the list to NOT slosh. I have a Pitts and I removed the tank ( about
10 yrs ago ) to slosh since it was weeping at one of the welds. The sloshing
compound was the best you could buy. It started to flake off and I spent many
hours removing the tank boiling it out with paint removers, MEK, and soap and
water. I used proseal on the Outside of the seam and have had no further problems.
A friend pulled his Cessna 170 tank this year due to large flakes of the sloshing
compound floating at the nozzle when topping off the tank. He had to have the
tank cut apart to clean and re-welded.
Hope this helps someone
Bobby
601 XL
Florida
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK |
I put Randolph 912 in my fuel tanks 8 years ago (plane flying since 2004 -
6 years).- I put only "super unleaded" auto fuel in my tanks and so far,
no flaking and the color of the stuff is still white.--- Looking at A
CS web site, it seems that the stuff is no longer available and is replaced
by a PPG product (can't comment on this one).
-
I took that decision after having my tanks welded.- I initially detected
some pin holes and brought them back to the welder.--Did that a couple
of times.- -I tested them with colored water, air, soap and I was getti
ng crazy and loosing sleep over a potential leak...- I could no longer sa
y whether or not they were leaking but I did not want to take any chance.
-
One thing that Randolph told me on the phone is that once the stuff is put
in the tank, there must always be fuel vapors in the tanks.- He advised m
e not to leave the tanks dry while I was completing my project.-- An in
teresting thing however, Randolph was not pushing to sell their product...
the person I spoke with said this was- for corrective measure or last res
ort measure.--
-
-
-
Michel
do not archive
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
--- On Mon, 5/31/10, n801bh@netzero.com <n801bh@netzero.com> wrote:
From: n801bh@netzero.com <n801bh@netzero.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK
Received: Monday, May 31, 2010, 8:59 AM
Properly applied and using the correct product sloshing compound will work
great. I have 6+ years and several thousands of gallons of 10% alcohol lace
d auto fuel run through my system with NO degrading of the product, NO dela
mination, NO flaking....
Your mileage may vary. <GG>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Klaus Truemper <klaus@utdallas.edu>
edu>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: SEALING A FUEL TANK
Hi,
I have been told from an RV builder that the sloshing compound may be attac
ked
by autogas. If you will ONLY use 100LL, then it may be okay. But if you are
planning
to use autogas, then the strong solvent properties of autogas may well atta
ck the
sloshing compound, and the crumbling compound may block fuel flow.
That happened to the RV builder.
It was a nightmare to get the flaking stuff out of the tank.
Sealing from outside: When I was faced with leak problems, I simply sealed
ALL
seams from the outside. That solved the problem for a while. Then I decided
to
have all tanks remade by a reliable company. Their welding was first rate,
and
since then there have been no leaks whatsoever.
Good luck, and happy flying,
Klaus
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tronics.com
www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Canopy Gas Springs |
I'm almost finished with the canopy-- Using a Todd's, which is a little
bigger, and aluminum flashing all around, which makes it a little
heavier, and I've learned that if I ever decide to part out my plane, I
can sell the canopy complete as a guillotine. I guess I'm also one of
those who needs heftier gas springs to hold the canopy up. Does anybody
have a source, price, and recommended spring weight available?
Thanks. Paul R
Message 6
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| Subject: | Canopy Gas Springs |
Paul,
I also used a Todd's canopy and ended up using some locally supplied (in
Australia) gas struts with the same physical dimensions as the originals but
gassed to 60# instead of the standard 40#.
They work a treat.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://zodiac.cpc-world.com
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
paulrod36@msn.com
Sent: Tuesday, 1 June 2010 8:29 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy Gas Springs
I'm almost finished with the canopy-- Using a Todd's, which is a little
bigger, and aluminum flashing all around, which makes it a little heavier,
and I've learned that if I ever decide to part out my plane, I can sell the
canopy complete as a guillotine. I guess I'm also one of those who needs
heftier gas springs to hold the canopy up. Does anybody have a source,
price, and recommended spring weight available?
Thanks. Paul R
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tank Sloshing |
I bet it probably didn't work out ok.... Sloshing a tank that has had fu
el in it for any extended period of time will usually lead to poor adhe
sion of the sloshing compound. It is VERY hard to properly prep the tank
without either removing it from the wing, load some sharp edged gravel
or removing the whole wing and getting some strong guys to shake. flip a
nd shake some more to abrade the inner tank surface. Doing that along wi
th multiple flushings with MEK will prep the tank to let the compound to
grip the the surface. Just sloshing the tank without removing the exist
ing fuel varnish thats stuck in the inner surface is asking for trouble.
YMMV..
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Subject: Zenith-List: Tank Sloshing
List,
I can add to the list to NOT slosh. I have a Pitts and I removed the tan
k ( about 10 yrs ago ) to slosh since it was weeping at one of the welds
. The sloshing compound was the best you could buy. It started to flake
off and I spent many hours removing the tank boiling it out with paint r
emovers, MEK, and soap and water. I used proseal on the Outside of the s
eam and have had no further problems.
A friend pulled his Cessna 170 tank this year due to large flakes of the
sloshing compound floating at the nozzle when topping off the tank. He
had to have the tank cut apart to clean and re-welded.
Hope this helps someone
Bobby
601 XL
Florida
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Canopy Gas Springs |
McMaster Carr has all kind of length, strengths and fittings.
-- Craig
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
paulrod36@msn.com
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 3:29 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Canopy Gas Springs
I'm almost finished with the canopy-- Using a Todd's, which is a little
bigger, and aluminum flashing all around, which makes it a little heavier,
and I've learned that if I ever decide to part out my plane, I can sell the
canopy complete as a guillotine. I guess I'm also one of those who needs
heftier gas springs to hold the canopy up. Does anybody have a source,
price, and recommended spring weight available?
Thanks. Paul R
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Gas Springs |
The ZAC supplied springs are 40 pound models. McMaster-Carr sells all sorts and
I bought the 60 pound model which worked very well for me. Their model number
with description is: 9416K123 GAS SPRING WITH THREADED ENDS, 60 FORCE, 8.15"
EXTENDED LENGTH, 3.54" STROKE
Price was $11.15 each in March of this year.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL/Jabiru 3300
First flight 7/24/08
Upgraded 3/19/10
130+ hours and climbing!
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