Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Chat reminder (George Race)
2. 07:42 AM - Inspection plates (Bill Naumuk)
3. 09:59 AM - subaru fwf (alex trent)
4. 11:34 AM - Re: copy hole pattern? (Carlos Sa)
5. 12:34 PM - Inspection plates II (Bill Naumuk)
6. 01:29 PM - Re: Re: copy hole pattern? (JohnDRead@aol.com)
7. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: copy hole pattern? (jaybannist@cs.com)
8. 05:22 PM - Inspection Plates (Jeff Davidson)
9. 05:49 PM - Re: subaru fwf (Larry McFarland)
10. 08:12 PM - Re: Inspection Plates (Peter W Johnson)
Message 1
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Live Chat Room every Monday evening around 8:00 EDT
http://www.mykitairplane.com <blocked::http://www.mykitairplane.com/>
Click on the Chat Room link at the top of the page.
George
Message 2
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| Subject: | Inspection plates |
All-
I finally got the nerve up to fly-cut a 4" inspection hole through
the side of my fuse to install my D-100 remote compass sender. I fully
intended to build one of Mac's covers and then saw the ones listed in
ACS. They're so cheap there's no way I can make out building from
scratch. HOWEVER-
If it seems like too good a deal, it usually is. Any user reports on
the ACS covers, or recommendations for other off the shelf models?
Thanks.
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS N601MG/Corvair 95%
Message 3
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I have a ch601ul registered in Canada as a home built. I have tried to
sell this a/c without success and have decided to part it out. I am
wondering what an e81 is worth that has about 13 hours since a
professionally overhaul, includes a warp drive prop and a reductions
redriv. There are numerous other parts either the complete tail wheel
configured airframe or parts thereof. ie: instuments, icom hand held,
maule tail wheel, fiberglass wheel pants, harness etc.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: copy hole pattern? |
Folks, I would like to thank all of you for your guidance and support.
Plenty of good ideas!
Happy building
Carlos
do not archive
On 12 August 2010 20:57, Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello, Listers
>
>
> In building the Zodie (HD) rear fuselage, I made a mistake that made me
> decide to trash the rear right skin (6F3-3) and the lower rear longeron
> (6F1-3).
>
> (In case you are interested, I posted pictures so the folks at ZAC could
> see the damage and recommend a fix - which they did, but I decided not to
> fix.
> http://picasaweb.google.com/carlossa52/ElongatedHolesRearSkinLowerLongeron#)
>
> Thankfully, tere's nothing wrong with the bottom skin, left longeron and
> left skin.
> So, obviously, I want to keep those.
>
> The question is, what would be the best way of copying the (pattern of)
> holes on the longeron? (Such that the new longeron will have holes matching
> those in the bottom skin.)
> I don't want to use the bottom skin as the pattern for fear of elongating
> the holes, given the thickness of the material (0.020").
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
> One step forward, twenty-three backward. Sigh...
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Inspection plates II |
All-
From the archives, others have wondered about the ACS inspection
plates. People reported buying them in 2005. My question is, are they
any good? At less than $2 each it's worth it to find out!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
Townville, Pa.
HDS N601MG/Corvair 95%
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: copy hole pattern? |
Guys; A strap duplicator makes the same size hole as the small stud that
fits into the hole you wish to duplicate so a #30 duplicates a #30 drilled
hole, a #40 duplicates a #40 and so on. Drilling a smaller hole first is
wasted effort.
Regards, John
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
In a message dated 8/14/2010 8:28:34 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
ron.lendon@gmail.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <ron.lendon@gmail.com>
[quote="carlossa52(at)gmail.com"]So, with this thingy in place, you dri
ll
a 3/32" hole, and then enlarge it to #21 / 20 as need be ?
And same principle for #30, I presume..
Neat!
Carlos
On 13 August 2010 22:42, Ron Lendon wrote:
>
>
> Yep, =EF=BDLook here:
>
http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&cat
egory=0&log=59265&row=431
(http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&ca
tegory=0&log=59265&row=431)
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
>
>
> [b]
That's how it works. Your drills need to be sharp split point and spinnin
g
fast (my Makita 6501 spins at 4500rpm) to hold the center. Let the drill
do the work and don't push to hard when marking the centers.
As Paul alludes to Line drilling in steps works best. If you get the han
g
of this though, you can do as I do, mark the centers using this tool,
drill a few of them and get some silver clecos in them, (try for every ot
her
hole). Once you have the part held in place drill all the pilot holes,
open
to #30 and copper cleco, remove silver clecoes and step holes to #30, #20
then black cleco, remove copper and open those holes to #20.
Before any drilling, lots of clamps to hold things where they belong.
Drilling holes in light sheet metal will drift if you don't keep the dril
l bit
perpendicular to the sheet, again use light pressure and let the drill do
the work. Replace worn drills with new ones, and use the split points fo
r
the pilot holes, they cut from the center. You might also need a Tight
Fit
Drill Kit, I use mine all the time in tight places.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308849#308849
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: copy hole pattern? |
Here is my rendition of a home made hole finder.
I have made several of these. The dimensions are not critical. The two
pieces should be clecoed together before drilling a #40 pilot hole throug
h both pieces for the "finder" end. They are taken apart and a #30 hole
drilled in the bottom piece and an A4 rivet set in that hole. The two pi
eces are put together again and riveted.
The A4 "finder" rivet shown on the drawing has a "tail" that just fits in
a #20 hole for an A5 rivet.. For #30 holes for A4 rivets, I use an A3 "f
inder' rivet.
I use a #40 drill, just to make a starting center. After the hole finder
is removed, I drill for the hole for the rivet.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: JohnDRead@aol.com
Sent: Sun, Aug 15, 2010 3:26 pm
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: copy hole pattern?
Guys; A strap duplicator makes the same size hole as the small stud that
fits into the hole you wish to duplicate so a #30 duplicates a #30 drille
d hole, a #40 duplicates a #40 and so on. Drilling a smaller hole first is
wasted effort.
Regards, John
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
In a message dated 8/14/2010 8:28:34 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, ron.lend
on@gmail.com writes:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "Ron Lendon" <ron.lendon@gmail.com>
[quote="carlossa52(at)gmail.com"]So, with this thingy in place, you dr
ill a 3/32" hole, and then enlarge it to #21 / 20 as need be ?
And same principle for #30, I presume..
Neat!
Carlos
On 13 August 2010 22:42, Ron Lendon wrote:
>
>
> Yep, =C3=AF=C2=C2=BDLook here:
> http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=11
3&category=0&log=59265&row=431 (http://mykitlog.com/users/display_
log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=59265&row=431)
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
>
>
> [b]
That's how it works. Your drills need to be sharp split point and spinni
ng fast (my Makita 6501 spins at 4500rpm) to hold the center. Let the
drill do the work and don't push to hard when marking the centers.
As Paul alludes to Line drilling in steps works best. If you get the ha
ng of this though, you can do as I do, mark the centers using this tool,
drill a few of them and get some silver clecos in them, (try for every
other hole). Once you have the part held in place drill all the pilot
holes, open to #30 and copper cleco, remove silver clecoes and step hol
es to #30, #20 then black cleco, remove copper and open those holes to
#20.
Before any drilling, lots of clamps to hold things where they belong.
Drilling holes in light sheet metal will drift if you don't keep the dr
ill bit perpendicular to the sheet, again use light pressure and let the
drill do the work. Replace worn drills with new ones, and use the spli
t points for the pilot holes, they cut from the center. You might also
need a Tight Fit Drill Kit, I use mine all the time in tight places.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=308849#308849=====
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Inspection Plates |
Bill,
I used the ACS inspection covers - ACS part number 09-18740 - in the fiberglass
wing tip on my HD wings. They provide access to the navigation and strobe
lights. One of my technical counselors remarked that he had never seen the
inspection covers meant for a fabric airplane used on a fiberglass part, but
he said it was fine and he liked the result. I have had no problems at all.
Mine are the recessed type.
Jeff Davidson
do not archive
Message 9
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hi Alex,
I would think you'd probably find the rebuilt EA81 with redrive, prop
and proper carb setup worth near $3500.00 or more. Airframe for a TD
601HD UL assuming
good workmanship and on the gear near $4000.00 or more. Icoms draw
$100.00 used for the least costly model. Don't know much about the rest.
Suggest you try
the gyrocopter groups, Ebay and some of the free ad locations on the
web. If your aircraft was complete, you'd do better by another 50%
price wise.
Best of luck,
Larry McFarland
alex trent wrote:
>
> I have a ch601ul registered in Canada as a home built. I have tried
> to sell this a/c without success and have decided to part it out. I am
> wondering what an e81 is worth that has about 13 hours since a
> professionally overhaul, includes a warp drive prop and a reductions
> redriv. There are numerous other parts either the complete tail
> wheel configured airframe or parts thereof. ie: instuments, icom
> hand held, maule tail wheel, fiberglass wheel pants, harness etc.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Inspection Plates |
Jeff,
Do you have any pictures of how they look. I was considering something similar
myself.
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://zodiac.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Davidson
Sent: Monday, 16 August 2010 10:21 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Inspection Plates
Bill,
I used the ACS inspection covers - ACS part number 09-18740 - in the fiberglass
wing tip on my HD wings. They provide access to the navigation and strobe
lights. One of my technical counselors remarked that he had never seen the
inspection covers meant for a fabric airplane used on a fiberglass part, but
he said it was fine and he liked the result. I have had no problems at all.
Mine are the recessed type.
Jeff Davidson
do not archive
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