Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:07 AM - Re: Nuvite Polishing and Swirl Marks (FLYaDIVE)
2. 06:36 AM - Re: Thread lube for fuel filler (MHerder)
3. 04:54 PM - Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild (Tim Juhl)
4. 05:03 PM - Re: Nuvite Polishing and Swirl Marks (Phil Maxson)
5. 05:40 PM - Re: Nuvite Polishing and Swirl Marks (FLYaDIVE)
6. 07:30 PM - Re: Thread lube for fuel filler (Ron Lendon)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nuvite Polishing and Swirl Marks |
Hello Phil:
DO NOT WET SAND the aluminum.
I guess it is too late to tell you that now :-(
Why you may ask?
Sheet aluminums have a very thin coating known as Clear Anodize. It is only
about 0.0001" thick and it is there to prevent corrosion - Aluminum Oxide.
When the aluminum is scratched or sanded the anodizing is removed and
corrosion can ... Will form.
So, what can you do now? Keep on Waxing the plane. And since you made the
decision of having polished wings the polish you can use, CAN have SILICONE.
Why silicone? The molecular structure of silicone is so small that it
can penetrate into porous material such as aluminun, plastic and even glass.
This will greatly add in the prevention of corrosion.
So, for those out there that did not sand their wing do you think you can
get away without polishing? Nope... In your normal handling and especially
construction, you produces thousands of scratches. So POLISH AWAY.
Now, what about those that painted their plane. And yes I know you are
going to polish the paint. Now here you have a small dilemma. Since
silicone penetrates into things like aluminum it sure can penetrate paints.
So should you use polishes with silicone? It depends, because there will be
more steps involved in cleaning an area for Re-Painting if silicone is used.
But! There is always a but; silicone does offer more protection than
non-silicone based waxes and they do go on easier.
Decision - Decisions - There are alway decisions to make.
Barry
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Thread lube for fuel filler |
Fuel Lube/EZ lube is what I used. It is thick, and extremely difficult to get
off your hands especially if it's cool or cold. Haven't had to remove my caps,
but I think that I could??? I'd find it hard to believe that that stuff would
allow any corrosion, its thick nasty stuff which means it's probably good.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330423#330423
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild |
Ablebob - I checked the threads in the tank. They are not steel - appears that
the problem is still aluminum / aluminum galling.
Tim
--------
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Tearing wings apart for modification
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330530#330530
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nuvite Polishing and Swirl Marks |
Barry wrote: "DO NOT WET SAND the aluminum. ...
Why you may ask?
Sheet aluminums have a very thin coating known as Clear Anodize. It is only about
0.0001" thick and it is there to prevent corrosion - Aluminum Oxide. "
Can't this very thin layer of clear anodize be removed by the coarser grade treatments
in the Nuvite polishing regime? Whenever I polish, even with some of the
finer grades of Nuvite, I come home covered with black aluminum residue. Definitely
0.0001" worth!
Phil
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Nuvite Polishing and Swirl Marks |
Phil:
I am not familiar with how abrasive the Nuvite procedure is, so I can not
comment on that Phil. BUT! As you as you have this black residue on you I
would say YES the anodize is gone. The polishing does protect the aluminum.
Here is a little trick that may show a difference between Anodized and
Non-Anodized.
Use an Ohm Meter on the low resistance range. If there is Anodizing you
should see anything from infinite resistance to a low resistance. Hardcoat
Anodizing such as in parts that are Blue, Red, Black or Olive Drab <-- Olive
Drab to Gray is the natural color for Anodized - will show infinite
resistance.
Bare or sanded aluminum without wax will show low or zero resistance.
And yes Phil, 0.0001" is very - very little and will be gone very soon.
Barry
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Thread lube for fuel filler |
Tim, Fuel Lube is the way to go. I had to cut one of mine out also but that was
during the fabrication process. I used the filler neck to align and hold in
place. after welding the inner, the filler neck was frozen in place. I used
fuel lube after and have since done the upgrade, they came right out.
On another note the CZAW plane had some white sealer on them and it took two men
two hours to coax them out. We used the big tap and fuel lube after that.
it was recommended by a APII.
--------
Ron Lendon, Detroit, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
http://www.zenith.aero/profile/RonLendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=330548#330548
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