Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:40 AM - Fit of wheels on shafts (Michel Therrien)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Fit of wheels on shafts (Larry McFarland)
3. 06:33 AM - Re: Fit of wheels on shafts (Bryan Martin)
4. 07:52 AM - Re: Fit of wheels on shafts (FLYaDIVE)
5. 03:37 PM - Rudder Alignment (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
6. 04:26 PM - Re: Rudder Alignment (n801bh@netzero.com)
7. 04:39 PM - Re: Rudder Alignment (FLYaDIVE)
8. 07:33 PM - Re: Rudder Alignment (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
9. 07:36 PM - Re: Comment on Reaming vs. Drilling (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fit of wheels on shafts |
Hello group!=0A-=0AI am fabricating the shafts for the 601 wheels and I n
oticed that on the XL, the shaft for the nose wheel-is made out of 6061-T
6 alum (please confirm).- =0A-=0ATwo questions that apply to both main
and nose wheels:=0A-=0A1. Should the wheel bearings slip easilly on the s
hafts or should they be pressed in?=0A2.-What technique is used to preven
t the bearing from spinning on (and wearing) the shaft? (retaining compound
? side pressure or compression?)- I did not think that side loading was a
good technique on ball bearings (like that of the nose wheel)=0A=0AThanks
all!=0A=0A----------------------------=0AMichel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
=0A
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fit of wheels on shafts |
Hi Michel,
I cannot speak for the axle material, but it would seem better as a 4130
tube with long thru-bolt. As for fit, the bearings should
be a slide-fit with .001 clearance plus or minus .0005. The axle shaft
should have a sleeve each side of the bearing
that allows the bolt to be tightened on the fork and sleeves, which in turn
take a bite only on the inner bearing race.
This makes for easy assembly, centering on the axle with no wear or
incidental rotation.
Side loads are not a factor so long as the sleeves only contact the inner
bearing race.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel Therrien
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 7:37 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Fit of wheels on shafts
Hello group!
I am fabricating the shafts for the 601 wheels and I noticed that on the XL,
the shaft for the nose wheel is made out of 6061-T6 alum (please confirm).
Two questions that apply to both main and nose wheels:
1. Should the wheel bearings slip easilly on the shafts or should they be
pressed in?
2. What technique is used to prevent the bearing from spinning on (and
wearing) the shaft? (retaining compound? side pressure or compression?) I
did not think that side loading was a good technique on ball bearings (like
that of the nose wheel)
Thanks all!
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fit of wheels on shafts |
It may be different with the newer kits, but my nose-wheel axle is a steel rod
threaded on both ends. Three steel spacers fit over the axle and hold the inner
bearing races in place. the torque on the axle nuts put side pressure on the
inner races, preventing them from spinning
On Nov 14, 2011, at 8:37 AM, Michel Therrien wrote:
> Hello group!
>
> I am fabricating the shafts for the 601 wheels and I noticed that on the XL,
the shaft for the nose wheel is made out of 6061-T6 alum (please confirm).
>
> Two questions that apply to both main and nose wheels:
>
> 1. Should the wheel bearings slip easilly on the shafts or should they be pressed
in?
> 2. What technique is used to prevent the bearing from spinning on (and wearing)
the shaft? (retaining compound? side pressure or compression?) I did not think
that side loading was a good technique on ball bearings (like that of the
nose wheel)
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fit of wheels on shafts |
Michel:
Response within the body of your email.
Barry
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello group!
>
> I am fabricating the shafts for the 601 wheels and I noticed that on the
> XL, the shaft for the nose wheel is made out of 6061-T6 alum (please
> confirm).
>
[Barry] - YES - Aluminum - Yes, 6061T6. Could also be 7075 but either are
OK.
>
> Two questions that apply to both main and nose wheels:
>
> 1. Should the wheel bearings slip easilly on the shafts or should they be
> pressed in?
>
[Barry] - Easy Slip On
> 2. What technique is used to prevent the bearing from spinning on (and
> wearing) the shaft? (retaining compound? side pressure or compression?) I
> did not think that side loading was a good technique on ball bearings (like
> that of the nose wheel)
>
[Barry] - The axle/shaft is SMOOTH - VERY Smooth.
The bearing just slips on - About a 0.005" clearance <-- Guessing here.
NOT PRESS FIT.
There is NO side load unless you land in a crosswind.
They work by being held in position by the step in the axle and the nut.
ALWAYS tighten the nut so there is DRAG on the wheel. About 1/2 to 1
rotation with medium hand rotation. <--- Don't ya just love those exact
requirements :-) Otherwise you will ware away the step on the axle.
Barry
> Thanks all!
>
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rudder Alignment |
List
After 128 hrs I found the following:
I made sure the nose wheel was straight with the V-notch.
Then set the rudder pedals exactly equal ( same distance off the back of the firewall
)
Drop a plumb bob off the bottom of the rudder and rig it about 1/4" to the right.
It may take a little more or less but this will keep the ball centered at whatever
cruise you choose. This lets the V-notch hold the rudder offset just enough
to keep the ball centered.
Most of my passengers are pilots or instructors so the skid ball being not centered
is a no-no even momentarily : )
Bobby
N131BP
601 B
Jab 3300
128 hrs
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Alignment |
I did the exact same thing on my 801... works great too... Altho I am de
feating ALOT of extra horsepower....<GG>
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Subject: Zenith-List: Rudder Alignment
List
After 128 hrs I found the following:
I made sure the nose wheel was straight with the V-notch.
Then set the rudder pedals exactly equal ( same distance off the back of
the firewall )
Drop a plumb bob off the bottom of the rudder and rig it about 1/4" to t
he right. It may take a little more or less but this will keep the ball
centered at whatever cruise you choose. This lets the V-notch hold the r
udder offset just enough to keep the ball centered.
Most of my passengers are pilots or instructors so the skid ball being n
ot centered is a no-no even momentarily : )
Bobby
N131BP
601 B
Jab 3300
128 hrs
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
====
____________________________________________________________
LifeLock=C2=AE Official Site
Identity Theft Can Happen to Anyone So Get Protection with LifeLock.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4ec1b0105162747057st03vuc
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Alignment |
Guys:
A question: If the plane is built square and the ball is not centered why
does one have to go through the exercise of plumb-bob'ing the rudder
instead of just putting a ground adjustable trim-tab on the rudder?
Barry
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 6:31 PM, <BobbyPaulk@comcast.net> wrote:
> List
>
> After 128 hrs I found the following:
> I made sure the nose wheel was straight with the V-notch.
> Then set the rudder pedals exactly equal ( same distance off the back of
> the firewall )
> Drop a plumb bob off the bottom of the rudder and rig it about 1/4" to the
> right. It may take a little more or less but this will keep the ball
> centered at whatever cruise you choose. This lets the V-notch hold the
> rudder offset just enough to keep the ball centered.
> Most of my passengers are pilots or instructors so the skid ball being not
> centered is a no-no even momentarily : )
>
> Bobby
> N131BP
> 601 B
> Jab 3300
> 128 hrs
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Alignment |
Answer: Just to make it as difficult as it can possibly be..... I have
never used either a plumb bob or a trim tab on any of the planes I have built
or rigged. A good eye can tell you all you need to know. Just follow the
KISS system and it will fly just fine.
In a message dated 11/14/2011 7:40:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
flyadive@gmail.com writes:
Guys:
A question: If the plane is built square and the ball is not centered why
does one have to go through the exercise of plumb-bob'ing the rudder
instead of just putting a ground adjustable trim-tab on the rudder?
Barry
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 6:31 PM, <_BobbyPaulk@comcast.net_
(mailto:BobbyPaulk@comcast.net) > wrote:
List
After 128 hrs I found the following:
I made sure the nose wheel was straight with the V-notch.
Then set the rudder pedals exactly equal ( same distance off the back of
the firewall )
Drop a plumb bob off the bottom of the rudder and rig it about 1/4" to the
right. It may take a little more or less but this will keep the ball
centered at whatever cruise you choose. This lets the V-notch hold the rudder
offset just enough to keep the ball centered.
Most of my passengers are pilots or instructors so the skid ball being not
centered is a no-no even momentarily : )
Bobby
N131BP
601 B
Jab 3300
128 hrs
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Comment on Reaming vs. Drilling |
I wonder what they did before they had reamers? They must have invented
reamers because of airplane spars......
In a message dated 11/13/2011 6:36:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
flyadive@gmail.com writes:
Tracy & Gaggle:
Pull out a Machinist Handbook and look up Drilling & Reaming.
>From statements, I am gathering that people are doing both operations
using a Hand Drill. If so the quality and accuracy of the Reamer will be
(guess factor number here) only a 50% improvement over Drilling. Drilling is
used to remove large quantities of material while Reaming removes smaller
quantities. Reaming can be done with 3, 4, 6 or more flutes. The more flutes
the less is removed on each pass but the smoother and more uniform the
hole. PRICE of the reamer goes up with the number of flutes.
To obtain a proper ream it should not be done with a hand drill.
Most Reamers have a LEAD-IN at both ends. Sharpness is NOT an issue, at
one end or another. The flutes do the cutting. All your tools should be
sharp! One of the longest things to learn in a machine shop is how to
sharpen your tools. Really you never stop learning that.
There are many things that determine if you push or pull the reamer.
Direction of chips.
Access.
Length of stroke.
Direction of oil feed.
Tools being used to operate the reamer - MANY a HAND DRILL can not be used
in the PULLING operation due to cheap-ass design <--- I learned that the
expensive way. They are to be used pushing only. DRILL BITS are designed
for pushing only. <--- Don't think I really needed to say that ;-)
What one must consider in the tool is the quality. Today you do NOT get
what you pay for. The steels coming from china are extremely poor. And
finding good tools are becoming harder and harder. I have tools from 50 years
ago and they hold an edge and take an edge very well. Brand new tools
today - Well, we are a throw away society and the tools reflect that.
Barry
Machine Shop 101
On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 7:27 AM, TRACY SMITH <_crvsecretary@aol.com_
(mailto:crvsecretary@aol.com) > wrote:
Gentlemen:
I was reading yesterday's comments on drilling & reaming holes and thought
I'd add a comment or two:
Reaming is a precision cutting operation where the accuracy is determined
by the size of the reamer and the skill of the operator using it. It is a
finishing operation.
Most drilling operations will produce an oversize (to the order of a
couple of tenths) out-of-round hole. Mind you, I'm talking VERY small amounts
here - and reaming puts the hole back to the intended dimensions: accurately
sized and perfectly round.
With regard to the 'pulling vs. pushing' discussion, is it possible the
reamer chucked in the drill motor is sharper at the shaft end - maybe due to
lack of cutting oil when reaming, or maybe trying to ream too much
material? Maybe the shaft acts to help the operator center the reamer in the
hole,
making the operation much easier?
Just a few thoughts - no criticism or negativity implied.
Regards,
Tracy Smith
Zenith 601/651
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|