Today's Message Index:
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0. 12:22 AM - What's Your Contribution Used For? (Matt Dralle)
1. 04:04 AM - Re: Comment on Reaming vs. Drilling (FLYaDIVE)
2. 04:06 AM - Re: Rudder Alignment (FLYaDIVE)
3. 11:26 AM - Plumb Bob (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
4. 11:40 AM - Rudder Offset (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
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| Subject: | What's Your Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
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Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Comment on Reaming vs. Drilling |
Reamers have been around for thousands of years.
All the way back to the ancient Egyptians.
They were used on the chariot wheels.
It was a military advantage back then to have a smooth round axle
and spindle.
Barry
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 10:32 PM, <Afterfxllc@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> I wonder what they did before they had reamers? They must have invented
> reamers because of airplane spars......
>
> In a message dated 11/13/2011 6:36:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> flyadive@gmail.com writes:
>
> Tracy & Gaggle:
>
> Pull out a Machinist Handbook and look up Drilling & Reaming.
>
> From statements, I am gathering that people are doing both operations
> using a Hand Drill. If so the quality and accuracy of the Reamer will be
> (guess factor number here) only a 50% improvement over Drilling. Drilling
> is used to remove large quantities of material while Reaming removes
> smaller quantities. Reaming can be done with 3, 4, 6 or more flutes. The
> more flutes the less is removed on each pass but the smoother and more
> uniform the hole. PRICE of the reamer goes up with the number of flutes.
> To obtain a proper ream it should not be done with a hand drill.
> Most Reamers have a LEAD-IN at both ends. Sharpness is NOT an issue, at
> one end or another. The flutes do the cutting. All your tools should be
> sharp! One of the longest things to learn in a machine shop is how to
> sharpen your tools. Really you never stop learning that.
> There are many things that determine if you push or pull the reamer.
> Direction of chips.
> Access.
> Length of stroke.
> Direction of oil feed.
> Tools being used to operate the reamer - MANY a HAND DRILL can not be used
> in the PULLING operation due to cheap-ass design <--- I learned that the
> expensive way. They are to be used pushing only. DRILL BITS
> are designed for pushing only. <--- Don't think I really needed to say
> that ;-)
>
> What one must consider in the tool is the quality. Today you do NOT get
> what you pay for. The steels coming from china are extremely poor. And
> finding good tools are becoming harder and harder. I have tools from 50
> years ago and they hold an edge and take an edge very well. Brand new tools
> today - Well, we are a throw away society and the tools reflect that.
>
> Barry
> Machine Shop 101
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 7:27 AM, TRACY SMITH <crvsecretary@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Gentlemen:
>>
>> I was reading yesterday's comments on drilling & reaming holes and
>> thought I'd add a comment or two:
>>
>> Reaming is a precision cutting operation where the accuracy is determined
>> by the size of the reamer and the skill of the operator using it. It is a
>> finishing operation.
>>
>> Most drilling operations will produce an oversize (to the order of a
>> couple of tenths) out-of-round hole. Mind you, I'm talking VERY small
>> amounts here - and reaming puts the hole back to the intended dimensions:
>> accurately sized and perfectly round.
>>
>> With regard to the 'pulling vs. pushing' discussion, is it possible the
>> reamer chucked in the drill motor is sharper at the shaft end - maybe due
>> to lack of cutting oil when reaming, or maybe trying to ream too much
>> material? Maybe the shaft acts to help the operator center the reamer in
>> the hole, making the operation much easier?
>>
>> Just a few thoughts - no criticism or negativity implied.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Tracy Smith
>> Zenith 601/651
>>
>> *
>>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Alignment |
I tried the eye-balling method. But it is very difficult to run behind the
plane and keep the head from bobbing.
Barry
On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 10:28 PM, <Afterfxllc@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> Answer: Just to make it as difficult as it can possibly be..... I have
> never used either a plumb bob or a trim tab on any of the planes I have
> built or rigged. A good eye can tell you all you need to know. Just follow
> the KISS system and it will fly just fine.
>
>
> In a message dated 11/14/2011 7:40:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> flyadive@gmail.com writes:
>
> Guys:
>
> A question: If the plane is built square and the ball is not centered why
> does one have to go through the exercise of plumb-bob'ing the rudder
> instead of just putting a ground adjustable trim-tab on the rudder?
>
> Barry
>
> On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 6:31 PM, <BobbyPaulk@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> List
>>
>> After 128 hrs I found the following:
>> I made sure the nose wheel was straight with the V-notch.
>> Then set the rudder pedals exactly equal ( same distance off the back of
>> the firewall )
>> Drop a plumb bob off the bottom of the rudder and rig it about 1/4" to
>> the right. It may take a little more or less but this will keep the ball
>> centered at whatever cruise you choose. This lets the V-notch hold the
>> rudder offset just enough to keep the ball centered.
>> Most of my passengers are pilots or instructors so the skid ball being
>> not centered is a no-no even momentarily : )
>>
>> Bobby
>> N131BP
>> 601 B
>> Jab 3300
>> 128 hrs
>>
>> *
>>
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Message 3
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guys,
Ya'll are making use of a plumb bob way too difficult, I only used it to see how
far the rudder moved without moving the pedals You can use a square, string
or just your eyeball. Offsetting the rudder should be easier and look better than
installing a trim tab.
bobby
Message 4
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List,
Most production aircraft have vertical stabilizers that are offset to counteract
Torque. In the absence of a vertical fin the rudder is usually offset to correct
torque at cruise power.
Bobby
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